Jurassic Park (30th Anniversary LE)
Stern, 2023
Jurassic Park (Limited Edition)
Stern, 2019
Jurassic Park (Premium)
Stern, 2019
Jurassic Park (Pro)
Stern, 2019You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider mbwalker.
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Quoted from jacksparrow0112:Got lucky and found 2 pros on location this weekend...
Darn, been checking the FWPinball site to see if any showed up yet. It isn't listed yet at Summit or Floyds. I know where I'm headed this week!
Thanks for letting the Indiana guys know where some are out in the wild.
Quoted from KingHebes:Got my pro on Friday! I've been pretty sick, but finally felt good enough to unbox it last night. Noticed no pooling out of box, after about 10 plays i can see pooling on lots of posts. Will get some pics tonight...
Did it come w/washers under the posts?
Quoted from Peanuts:As posted in the Premium/LE thread, the playfield has been modified around the posts in order to limit (perhaps) pooling and chipping :
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Modified from the factory by Stern? If so, in what way? Backing off the clear coat or a change in the post?
Quoted from Peanuts:It's a playfield from a Jurassic Park LE. It's from factory. See, there's no artwork around the posts, the wood is visible.[quoted image]
Can you tell if there's still clearcoat there, or did they back off the clear along with the ink?
Quoted from PBMAN:Hello All,
Just picked up a JP Pro. Build Date 9/11. Looks like Pooling issue has been addressed.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Is it still clear coated under the post? Looks like it.
Thanks for the pictures.
Quoted from PBMAN:It is still Clear Coated where you see natural wood.
That's interesting. Sounds like their issue was ink related and not the clear coat. Unless they also changed the clear coat recipe at the same time.
Quoted from billsfanmd:adding a polk sub....are people still alligator clipping to exiting sub or is a method like pinnovaters Stern spike sub board safer?
While at first this might appear to be OK, if the amplifier has a balanced or differential output (and it probably does) - then I would definitely get what's called a 'balun'. I believe most modern pins have this topology. What this means is the '-' (negative) is not at ground potential anymore. So you could potentially be grounding one side of the amp. Not good!
If it's working, then perhaps the sub might have a balun built in. But for next to no money either get pinnovators circuit or get a balun off of Amazon (don't want to steer sales away from Pinnovators, please support them.), and sleep well at night not worrying about it. Adding a balun is the correct method to convert a balanced output (i.e. the amp) to a single ended or unbalanced input (i.e. the sub or a mixer). Balun stands for BALanced to UNbalanced (duh!).
Some of the older pins (i.e. the 90's), one side of the amp's output is grounded (unbalanced or also called single-ended) - a person should be OK doing that with just wires. Of course, it's a high level signal.
Here's a quick SnipIt from a google search that shows the difference, along with what I use. The Amazon one I had to add clips for the internal sub connection and hook up to the sub or mixer using a RCA connector/cable. I even use them on the older pins to prevent a ground loop issues.
I use a cheapie audio mixer and run multiple pins off of a single sub - but I only play one pin at a time. But they are all turned on.
Edit: I do want to add I haven't looked at pinnovators set up - they might be tapping off at a single-ended point. Don't want to mislead anyone that it truly is a balun setup.
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Quoted from Clytor:I don't think it matters how many pins you hook up to a sub through a mixer, within reason. When you listen to music through a sub, you're getting low end information from multiple instruments at the same time.
I initially had 5 pins on one sub and a mixer, only issue was that you could really tell the sub was too far away despite being low frequency and centered under the pins. I had another spare sub, so I just added that to the mixer, and spaced them apart. With two it sounded fine w/respect to not sounding like the sub was too far away.
Got this guy at Sweetwater for about $80 (demo, but spotless). Thought it would be fun to play around w/the special effects. So-so w/respect to the special effects, but it was fun experimenting.
We only play one pin at a time, so can't comment about others playing at the same time. But it sure makes the pins ALOT more fun, doesn't it? A lot of excellent sounds hidden in the pins and they really come to life w/a sub.
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Quoted from Mr_Outlane:Totally agree. I have tried Superbands on my flippers and I too like the feel of Titans much better. But for sure use Superbands for the post sleeves!
Titan has since updated the recipe of the slim post sleeves. Haven't changed mine back to Titan to test drive yet, but I should add Titan's customer service was 'spot on' taking care of the slim post issue.
Just joined the club last weekend. What a stellar pin! Usually not into mods much, but I thought I would fool around making an interesting 3D speaker grill. Printing tonight, better half will paint tomorrow. May take a few iterations to get it looking right.
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Update: First prints. Needs some tweaking
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngOriginally posted in the 3d printing thread, figured I might as well post here too:
Looks like I'm probably in the homestretch with the JP grill experiment. Had to make some changes to the magnetic tape locations, but it seems rather solidly attached now. Right side will be done in about 8 hrs. Plus the wife will need to paint
Printed in gray just because that was loaded up in the printer, plus it's easier to see the alignment.
At some point I'll load it up on Thingiverse, but if any JP owners want the STL files ahead of time, just PM me (include an e-mail). Might be 2-3 days before I finally finish.
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An update on my 3D printed JP Speaker grills. Wife's been painting them today, and wasn't done when I snapped a couple of pictures. Couldn't resist. 
Still needs some touchup between the speaker grill and the T-Rex body, and few other areas finished.
Just used the crappy camera in the tablet, so not the best photos
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from Deyanks98:Do you have Pinstadium lights as your pin looks nice and bright? I need to order something and I’m leaning that way.
Here's mine w/PinStadiums.
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from PoMC:$7 set of jungle trees and a $8 raptor adds a lot of visual appeal and scale.
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Those look very nice, what did you use to keep them in place?
Quoted from PoMC:Little dabs of hot glue from a glue gun.
Thanks, just got back from Michael's. Raptor, trees, cheapie gun low temp glue gun and and pack of glue sticks...$18 w/a 20% coupon.
Quoted from Jfmav:Just got my JP premium last week. First pin. I have been reading this thread off and on for a week. Still not even half done. Lots of info here. Wow. In any case, I saw on deal news today, target is having a sale on JP toys. Thought I would repost here in case anyone sees a Dino they want to add to their room or pin.
I found this on DealNews: Jurassic World Toys at Target: 10% off https://dealnews.com/offer/19164122
PoMc posted his mods a couple of pages back, but he got his at Michael's (a Hobby/art/craft store). I even bought some, really nice dinosaur toys and some trees the perfect size for mods.
Edit: Found it - Post 9805
Quoted from PoMC:Walmart also has Dinosaur toys for $1 and they're pretty good looking.
I installed the same toys you did, but the Raptor came loose after I installed the shaker. I guess I need to use more hot glue. The default shaker setting is seriously vibrating the pin when the T-Rex roars. Too much, really. I got the low temp hot glue, thinking it would be safer on the plastics. Maybe it doesn't stick as well...
I turned down the shaker the other day, I'll haven't checked it out yet.
Quoted from Wilberto757:I wanted to make my alternate translite have more of cool white background so thanks to Markharris2000 for the very simple idea of adding cool white led strips to the back haha.
Right now they are plugged into the service outlet, im just a stuck on how to get them to turn on and off with the game(using the service outlet they are just ON even when the game is off). Im guessing I can do some soldering and wire them into an existing 12v line that is getting power but im trying to think if there is a simpler way im not thinking of. I have speaker lights as well and im thinking of somehow wiring them into that, but the main brick powering those LEDS says 24v. Any ideas?
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If you want to do it in a pretty easy way, try this:
There's outlet strips the have switched outlets, controlled by a single outlet. i.e. When something draws current in the controlling outlet, then it turns on the other outlets. Plug the pin into the controlling outlet and then the LED's power supply in the switched outlets.
You'd have to run the LED power wire into the pin, but no tinkering otherwise.
Plenty of other options tho. Perhaps an Alexa controlled outlet strip inside the pin, with the LED's plugged into that. Just tell Alexa to turn on the pin LED's.
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Hey JP crew,
I did the 3D JP speaker grills not long ago (post # 9739) and PinPeet reached out about making something to replace the dino plastics down by the outlanes. Good idea!
So I was fooling around just to get a rough idea. I started on the right side (albiet w/a T-rex stl file I had on hand, will switch it to a raptor)
Still working on the size, height, angle, what to chop off - really everything right now, especially how to mount it on the two posts that currently hold the plastic pieces. I don't think I want to have have openings on the top side for attachment, it would look gaudy. I'm thinking of just having some screw holes in the bottom and have it set on some posts
Of course, it needs to be painted to really look good.
Suggestions welcome! If anyone wants the stl files when I'm done, just PM me later when I'm done.
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from embryon:A big thanks for your speaker stl. I'm patiently waiting on my game still but have passed this time making bling stuff. I think these came up great. Thanks again.
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Excellent!! I was thinking about the yellow caution tape, but I didn't want to wear out my welcome w/the wife's painting skills.
You stick on the mag tape yet?
Quoted from Markharris2000:You can buy a factory cover-plate for that hole and disable tournament in the settings screen. (Machines always have that cabinet cutout, but they ship from factory with the cover plate installed.
I always install these in that spot (albeit a blank, not a tournament button) in my Stern pins:
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from Mr_Tantrum:I wouldn't have it any other way (let's everyone know there's a T-rex in the house).
Boy, mine was on default...felt like a shaker table we have at work. Figured I'd spare the node boards under the PF from a torture test.
Quoted from mbwalker:Hey JP crew,
I did the 3D JP speaker grills not long ago (post # 9739) and PinPeet reached out about making something to replace the dino plastics down by the outlanes. Good idea!
So I was fooling around just to get a rough idea. I started on the right side (albiet w/a T-rex stl file I had on hand, will switch it to a raptor)
Still working on the size, height, angle, what to chop off - really everything right now, especially how to mount it on the two posts that currently hold the plastic pieces. I don't think I want to have have openings on the top side for attachment, it would look gaudy. I'm thinking of just having some screw holes in the bottom and have it set on some posts
Of course, it needs to be painted to really look good.
Suggestions welcome! If anyone wants the stl files when I'm done, just PM me later when I'm done.
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Update to my original post that had a t-rex on the right as an experiment to replace the flat plastic raptor. Switched over to a raptor.
I think maybe about ~1 inch shorter on each side. Will know in about 5hrs.
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from FatPanda:The simplest way would be for you to solder wires from the existing LED strip to the new LED strip that you have running around the backbox. Neg to Neg, Pos to Pos. Would take 5 mines with a soldering iron and some wiring.
If you don't have any spare wiring, I would recommend a roll of this
amazon.com link »
One thing I would be cautious about is overloading the transistor or FET used to turn the lights on with a bunch of extra LEDs.
Not saying he couldn't do it, just don't know the limitations, that's all.
Quoted from Wilberto757:I decided to just hook the machine into a smart outlet and then keep the power switch flipped on. This prevents power from going to the service outlet (where the leds are plugged in) when its turned off but when I say “Google, turn on Jurassic Park” it gives power to the machine, thus turning it on along with the leds at the same time. Then I just dimmed the backbox GI to 0% so it doesn't drain out the cool white light.
Good deal. I'm surprised it wasn't "Welcome to Jurassic Park!"
Quoted from Shadrac:Hi everybody, I have a sound problem on my JP Premium. There is a high pitched 8bit sound in the background while the music is playing. I have already done some tests and it does not come from the speakers (the sound come from the speakers, but the speakers are ok), I also tried with another sd card and
it's the same. I checked the connections etc ... but I think it comes from the source. I have no experience with Spike issues, is this a known issue? Has anyone ever had this problem here? The code is 1.03 and system updated 2.60.
I posted a video on Youtube to show the problem. We can hear the parasitic sound at 0:05.
Thank you in advance.
One thing you might be able try is loading the code in Pinball Browser and check the original audio file to see if it's present.
Sorry if this was already mentioned - just browsed the comments briefly and might have missed that comment.
JP 3D speaker grills: When I was creating these, I printed a set with some spare gray filament for a final check while waiting for the black filament to show up.
If anyone wants these (USA only), PM me. Shipping I think is $10.80 and maybe tossing in another $2 for gas (I live in the country, post office is a ways away) and filament. Shipping will be in a box (USPS "If it fits, it ships").
You'll have to paint and get some Scotch magnet tape at Wallymart (<$4) to hold them in place.
First to PM me gets them. And please don't resale - just trying to help someone who doesn't have access to a 3D printer.
pasted_image (resized).pngI figured the plastic raptor on the left side of the Pro could use a minor upgrade...
Shrubs will hide plastic cover. Sides are fence posts with some holes to slip wire thru to make it look like he broke thru, plus it needs painted when I'm finally happy w/the 3D print.
Still a work in progress.
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from Averhoeven:I give up. I've been trying to install the Cliff protectors for a while now. The left shooter protector has me stumped. I know you have to tap out the screws from the underside, but the top one can't come all the way out because of the guide rail. I can't, for the life of me, figure out how to loosen or shift that guard rail enough for me to lift that screw out (and eventually get it back in).
Also, noticed this when putting on my Tower ramp. Any thoughts on what to do about this?
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Just get one of these: https://mezelmods.com/products/pinball-shooter-lane-protector?variant=18133347500129
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from Jarbyjibbo:... It'll be covered by the cliffy anyway right?
Isn't that area under the apron?
Quoted from yzfguy:I'm pretty sure you could sell those. Once painted, they will be a nice upgrade without trying too hard to be different. Nicely done
Thanks! The wife has all the artistic abilities, not me. And she doesn't want another job (we're both retired).
Like the 3D speaker grills I did awhile ago, I just grabbed files off of Thingiverse and did some mods.
More than happy to share the STL files if anyone wants them for personal use.
Quoted from yzfguy:I'm Waaaaay too lazy!
LOL. Me too. I just hit the 'print' button on the printer.
Quoted from mbwalker:Redoing the plastic by the drains. Wife needs to add her artistic abilities.
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Quoted from yzfguy:I'm pretty sure you could sell those. Once painted, they will be a nice upgrade without trying too hard to be different. Nicely done
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from Hayfarmer:Your game is very nice lookin, love the blue look. My prem shows up nx week hopefully , did you change gi lighting to get this effect? Most ive seen are more green ..
I think he has PinStadiums installed.
Quoted from gorditas:I made those stadium lights myself. I have rare earth magnets routed into the side of the cabinet. They are hidden by the mirror blades. Then another set of rare earth magnets inside the aluminum angle pieces that I painted black. They snap on and off with authority. I far prefer my lights to the commercially available versions when it comes time for maintenance. I can unplug each light bar and completely remove them. On my other machine, I have to tie them to wireforms to keep them from flopping around.I tried the whole color spectrum, and settled on blue and warm white.
The blue tint along w/the mirror blades looks really sharp.
Quoted from gorditas:Hayfarmer This is a photo of my machine with Pinstadium brand lights. You can see how much wider the blades are. This machine is adjusted much more green.
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Munsters is one pin that really benefits from PinStadiums (or a DIY version). Very dim PF if played w/the lights down. Can barely see the ball at times.
Quoted from gorditas:I made those stadium lights myself. I have rare earth magnets routed into the side of the cabinet. They are hidden by the mirror blades. Then another set of rare earth magnets inside the aluminum angle pieces that I painted black. They snap on and off with authority. I far prefer my lights to the commercially available versions when it comes time for maintenance. I can unplug each light bar and completely remove them. On my other machine, I have to tie them to wireforms to keep them from flopping around.I tried the whole color spectrum, and settled on blue and warm white.
What version of the mirror blades did you use? The real mirror ones or the polished metal version?
Quoted from yzfguy:I'm pretty sure you could sell those. Once painted, they will be a nice upgrade without trying too hard to be different. Nicely done
Still need to clearcoat, just wanted to eyeball them.
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from embryon:How are these mounted?
The raptor on the right uses the two existing screw holes that line up w/the factory plastic flat raptor (that's removed). The t-rex on the left side uses one the original flat plastic t-rex (removed) hole locations, along w/a screw down by the drain.
Still thinking about what to fill the screw hole on the left t-rex side side besides a screw (which would look OK).
Quoted from yzfguy:What the ...... Is it because I'm from NJ?!
Yes, that's the reason.
What the heck...I'll personally paint some for you if you want because you're from NJ. You're a good guy regardless.
Quoted from Hayfarmer:Got mine yesterday from mb walker and his wife painted for me!! Good talent in that house. Thx so much, I think they look great. Now, I have to paint the speaker panels you sent , hope I don't embarass myself too bad[quoted image][quoted image]
Trying out my 'un' artistic abilities, I think the t-rex eyeball needs to be closer to this size...even if my wifey painted what I sent (hope she doesn't see my comment). Not too shabby for a retired RF electrical engineer that can't match his socks!
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Quoted from Hayfarmer:Those look good. I'll have to try and find paint to match...
Goats: I can maybe print
What I tried for painting the t-rex. Raptor up next:
Quoted from Slogan1111:Should be more teeth in this, no? Too much pink gum? But otherwise, not a bad paint job.
I just grabbed the dinos from Thingiverse and mod them to fit the pin. So I'm sorta stuck w/whatever I can find for free.
Still sorting out how to make the pink a little more realistic looking. I think the pink is about the right color, I just need to add some darker colors to make it look like the t-rex just didn't leave the dentist's office. Haven't painted the teeth yet, that's just white plastic primer.
Quoted from untamedinc:EaglePin timlah79 chubtoad13 Jediturtle - Its fixed! I can't thank you all enough for your help with this one. The tiny black button under the long lever was stuck. I poked at it lightly with a screwdriver with no luck. I then took the two screws on the left off holding that unit trigger on and it popped right up and clicked. The rollunder gate was lose also, so tightened that down to hopefully avoid more rattling that might have caused the original issue. Reset it all and it started clicking again. Not sure how it got stuck like that, but I'm just glad it's working for now. Thanks again all!
I know you already fixed this, but in case it happens again (for a different reason): It does look like the actuator lever on the switch is not aligned in the center and is catching on the vertical section of the piano wire.
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from Markharris2000:Get a set of side protectors (pinball universe) that can be put in while you are working on play field and then removed when you are done. Saves the sidewall paint or artwork. IMHO, A must have tool...
Adding to Mark's post (if you're in the US):
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Quoted from 67cutlass:Hi everyone..... quick (hopefully) question. On my pro, it seems like the right orbit (I think that's what it's called) where the letter S for Chaos, doesn't seem to register often. When I do a switch test though and use the ball to test, it looks like it's always registering. Any ideas?
Air balls maybe?
Quoted from Da-Shaker:Quick update on subwoofers. I was trying to hook up 3 pins to 1 woofer. I needed to buy the adapter from Pinovators, for 35 bucks. In doing so, it got rid of my back-feed hum for all 3 pins. However, I need to constantly adjust the sub volume when I play different pins.
Get these for each pin. It isolates any ground loops, then run the pins to a 4 channel mixer. I run 6 pins into a mixer and 2 subs w/o any feedback issues. It converts the high level woofer output to a low level input to the mixer.
Don't mean to take business away from Pinovators, they may have a similar solution.
https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-35-Variable-Line-Converter/dp/B001EAWS3W/ref=sr_1_1
You only need 1 of the outputs (i.e. right +, right -, and maybe the brown ground wire) using some small alligator clips. I use some of the removeable adhesive strips (3M Command) to keep the gizmo in place. The device itself is just what is call a 'balun' - this is typically used in autos to hook up external amps to a deck. Fits the bill perfect for a pin.
Quoted from pinopinballmods:Hi everybody,
If you have a Jurassic Park on Pro version.
We propose 4 mods for this pinball and 1 mod for Premium/LE:
• Moving Blade (Propeller)
• Mosquitos Insert x 3
• EastDock Panels x 4
• Velociraptor Mod
• Pteranodon Mod
Some mods can be personalized with your colors.
Don't hesitate to contact me by MP.
Have a nice day !
Lionel.
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I didn't like the plastic raptor Stern stuck in the Pro either, so I've been working on one too. Just slides over the flat plastic raptor, nothing to remove. Fake plants hides the plastic piece. Still a little bit more to tinker with.
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from Da-Shaker:#2 in the top 100 for the last week!
For a good reason, I might add.
Quoted from timlah79:Good to know but putting the iron against that housing is sketchy. The top of the housing (which broke on the stock one) is made of plastic. Therefore I'm incredibly apprehensive to lay a 850 degree iron against that housing metal as is when it comes to the new motor.
At times, too little heat for too long can be an issue because you end up heating up EVERYTHING waiting for the solder to flow. Better to use something with a big tip and maybe more wattage. (i.e. dump a lot of heat into a small spot quickly, then stop). Got a bigger tip?
I'd probably solder a little lower on the side, just to get some distance from the plastic. And use some good 60/40 rosin solder. Lead free solder has a higher melting point.
Quoted from timlah79:So I have managed to get the new capacitors soldered on as well as the connector. I had to slightly sand away the protective coating on the housing to get solder to stick, using flux paste and the 60/40 rosin solder recommended. It's super ghetto looking but I don't think it's going anywhere and I'm done putting heat on this thing. Thanks everyone for the help!...
Mission accomplished!
I posted this not long ago, but made some tweaks (also posted in the 3D printing thread). Slips over the original raptor plastic. If anyone wants the 3D printed part file, just PM me:
I shared a first pass version in an earlier post. I think I'm done. A little 3D printed, a little bit from Walmart (plants, fence wire), and a little bit from Michaels (Raptor).
For a Stern JP Pro:
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Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:My young son has taken a liking to "streaming" pinball and JP is up next. Aimed towards kids, but you may enjoy also
Still getting my head around the production, any feedback welcomed.
Well, your son knows seriously more about the rules than me. Very impressive!
A couple of minor suggestions:
1) Maybe a laser pointer or a dowel rod (painted for visibility) to help point to the area he's discussing?
2) Start a game, but don't shoot and turn down the volume. That will keep the lights from being in attract mode when he's pointing to the shots.
Still a great video!
Quoted from dinot:...I was originally planning to spray paint black diagonal "warning" lines on top of this yellow, but now I am second guessing that. I worry that it might get too "busy"...
Just try some black tape temporally to get an idea of what it would look like...
Some claw scratches might be cool and a little more subtle.
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pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from Drussksu:Anyone know how to get replacement plastics? My number 15 in the back left broke.
Just shoot an e-mail off to PinballLife, Terry will order for you. Chances are, you'll have to buy the entire set.
Quoted from mbrave77:...Sterns comes factory set to shake a house. Glad you see how great this game is. I am soon to have the elwin trifecta when iron maiden comes this month.
My shaker was on the standard setting and I thought it would loosen even screw on the PF, so I bumped it down a notch. Much better.
Quoted from chickenscratch:Where is shaker motor settings in JP2? Not finding them anywhere.
Just checked: setting number 300 in Game Adjustments
Quoted from chickenscratch:Mine skips from 283 to 302 but there is a shaker setting at 302, but the settings are labeled as use, not power; is this the same thing/correct setting? Factory setting is Maximal Use and there is Minimal, Moderate and Long Use. To me that sounds like how often it activates, not how strongly? Will give it a shot on Moderate though.
That's odd, wonder if you have the latest code? For what it's worth, I have a Pro.
Quoted from chickenscratch:Mine skips from 283 to 302 but there is a shaker setting at 302, but the settings are labeled as use, not power; is this the same thing/correct setting? Factory setting is Maximal Use and there is Minimal, Moderate and Long Use. To me that sounds like how often it activates, not how strongly? Will give it a shot on Moderate though.
Quoted from gorditas:I think that the feature adjustment numbering is the same for all of the Spike 2 machines. Not all machines have the features of reserved spots, and some machines aren't coded for particular adjustments. That is why you see numbers skipped.
This is weird. My JP Pro 302 is the right flipper. 300 is definitely the shaker.
I see you have the Premium - I bet that is the difference.
Quoted from chickenscratch:Guys, I feel like an idiot and need help.
Put on a new shooter plate and after putting everything together the manual plunger lacks a lot of power, to where I 95% off the time cannot get it to go fully through the up kicker off of plunge.
I think I put it all back together correctly, dumbly didn’t take before pictures as I didn’t expect any difficulties; now I know better.
Here’s some after pictures if anyone can ID the issue:
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How about a picture of the plunger in the shooter lane, with a ball sitting there (to see if things are still centered)?
Are you sure the PF was fully seated?
Quoted from chickenscratch:Oh wow, didn’t realize that; will definitely look around for one and order. Is the spring stern or JP specific or will a parts store just carry “orange spring?”
You can get a kit from Marco's that has a selection. Color coded for strength.
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from king_pin:So what am Iooking for on the coilstop?
Gold colored dust in the cabinet under the where the coils are at is dead giveaway.
Quoted from gorditas:The UV flashers, combined with the shaker are probably pulling too much current. I like Pinstadiums, but the UV flashers are too bright for me. I ended up adding an inline resistor to knock them down a bit when I had them on my Munsters. I removed them prior to selling it, and plan to install them on my BM66 when it shows up. I might not even hook that circuit up. I made my own stadium lights for JP. Like an actual stadium, they just stay on for the game.
I'd suggest pulling power from a flasher instead of the shaker. You also then gain some control of how bright they are through flasher brightness adjustment in the game menu.
I might be completely mistaken, but doesn't PinStadiums just use whatever light you hook up to as a trigger, and the lights are actually powered by the the little wall wart?
Quoted from gorditas:You are not mistaken. The LED's are powered by the wall wart. This includes the RGB, white, and UV flashers. The trigger circuits do however still pull current, and the amount of current effects the brightness of the LED's connected to it...[quoted image]
Wow, I'm surprised the trigger pulls some current. Lots of ways to design a trigger that essentially needs next to nothing for current.
Quoted from gorditas:You can't escape Ohm's law.
True, but a trigger circuit that needs low current (i.e. 1mA, and I'm probably being generous) - the LED you attach to won't be affected.
Quoted from Returner:I'm back in the club again with a Pro. Had my Prem for 10 month whitout a singel play on it because of a defective playfield/nodeboard/wiring.
I hope this will be a better experience.
Holy cow! Can you elaborate?
Quoted from Returner:Long story short, the machine arrived with two loose inserts and did not boot.
Stern agreed to send me a new populated playfield. Then covid lockdown hit and Stern did not respond for a long time.
When they got back to me 3 month later i had located a bad nodeboard and some wiring issue with the help of my distro.
We requested a new nodebord and a unpopulated playfield to speed things up, but the playfield was on backorder. They sent me the nodeboard a month later but the playfield was still on backorder.
Distro took the machine back in May with a full refund. He offered to do it earlier as well.
Stern has always been good to me, so i'm not pissed.
Thanks for the back story Returner. That had to frustrating, and then a double whammy on top of it w/COVID screwing everything up. Sounds like you have an excellent distro tho.
Quoted from lockeness:... But I had a god awful, could have been catastrophic moment when I accidentally pulled the playfield too far out and dumped it into the cabinet. Not good. I got it back up immediately. It dented the subwoofer a bit, but it seems to work well...
Quoted from BroMan90:Hey I did it in my GOTG too. Dented the speaker as well, thankfully everything else still worked. I had spent a deal of time with the playfully partially out installing mods, derped and forgot it was already out halfway. Definitely a mistake that you only makes once. I've talked to other people who have admitted the mistake as well, you live and learn and get better!
I've done that more than once over the years. I wish Stern would put some sort of additional stopper at the end of the rail to help make it idiot proof (aka: me). Thankfully, no harm done other than my heart probably skipping a couple of beats.
Since then, I usually toss a big piece of foam in the cabinet when I'm 'working under the hood' just in case.
Quoted from EaglePin:Two ways
1) use a thin ignition wrench that can fit between the flipper assembly and the playfield to hold the nut while tightening...
Not sure if this would work in that spot, but if it does - this little gizmo from Titan really has come in handy more than a few times for me.
I put a couple layers of Scotch tape on mine to prevent the metal from touching the PF.
pasted_image (resized).png
Quoted from ralphs007:My friend gave this subwoofer to me.Would this work for my Jurassic park,when I get it?
[quoted image]
I usually add one of these to my pins to be on the safe side. Converts a high level balanced output (i.e. the cabinet woofer) to the low level, single-ended input the active sub wants. And provides ground isolation.
I actually have these (or similar versions) in each pin and run the outputs to a cheapie mixer, with the mixer output going to two subs
pasted_image (resized).png
Quoted from scootss:Topper available at Marco for anyone interested...
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/502-7111-00
Geez, hard to believe I'm saying it's a good deal at that price and not $2K...
Quoted from John_I:I would imagine any batch after this current run will have the connected hardware and I would not count on using the unauthorized code unless it is updated. There will be a new code release and I assume those new games will also get the new node boards that drove the new GOTG code release. Hard to say anything until we see what comes out for sure.
Since the pin 'phones home', I bet they'll know if someone's been tinkering w/code mods.
Quoted from John_I:Those speaker cables would not be needed using the device in question. The whole idea of that is to convert the signal from speaker wires (speaker level input) to regular old fashion audio cables (line level input). So it would even use a different input on the subwoofer.
Look at your subwoofer. Does is have speaker level input or just line level inputs? The cables you posted a picture of will use speaker level inputs. Cables like this will work with the device you were asking about and connect to the line in on a subwoofer:
[quoted image]
Adding to my original post and John's comments above. This device is mostly used for car stereos to allow for hooking an external amp if the car stereo doesn't have a 'line out' connector. Ideal for hooking up a powered sub to a pin. The wires coming out of it? - you just need one pair since you only need a left or right, not both. Just pick one set (i.e. right+, right-), it doesn't make any difference. Add a couple of alligator clips to those 2 wires and attach to the sub. Hook up the '+' wire to the + side of the woofer (don't recall what wire that is) - won't hurt anything if you don't but the bass might be a little diminished if it's wrong. The output is a RCA connector, you can get a RCA cable (see John's post) just about anywhere. Just make sure to match it up w/the input (i.e. right in, right out). I just loosen up the cabinet woofer and run it out the bottom to the sub, under the grill. Be careful that you don't damage the wires from tightening the woofer too much.
Quoted from BallyKISS1978:Get the pinnovators external sub add on. I have bought 3 already and I get one for each stern I buy. Only $35
https://pinnovators.myshopify.com/products/pinsub-spike-spike2-stern-kit
That works too! Always good to support the pin community.
Quoted from ralphs007:Don't tell the guys on the Metallica club thread, I'm gonna use this on my JPP instead of my Metallica
Have the best of both, and more. Just get a cheap 4 channel mixer and run up to 4 pins into the sub. If you do this, you would need to go the low-level route (the high-level to low-level adapter) for each pin.
If you go w/the Pinovator's adapter - just get two (one for each pin) since the woofer already has two inputs. Keep in mind there's only one volume control on the sub, so you would have to adjust the each game individually. If you did the mixer option - each input has its own volume adjustment.
The adapter I mentioned is generic - works on any pin's woofer. Pinovators is more specific to the Spike Spike 2 system. (Don't want to make sound like I'm steering you away from Pinovators, was just mentioning the difference.). Not sure what system MET runs (i.e. SAM or SPIKE).
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from Inpw:Has anybody replaced the slingshot/lane guide plastics? If so, what with? I'm not a fan of the dinos there, especially since they block the view of the inlanes. Just removing their heads is no option since their arms remain on the lane guide plastics. If a mod maker were to create an alternative, I'd definitely be interested.
I made some 3D printed ones, but they block the lane just like the plastic ones, maybe even more.
Here's an early version, getting ready to repaint.
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from max_pinball:Can anyone help with the post problem? It’s the only part left before mounting the apron
I can't help right now, but maybe you could take a picture of the post below the PF so everyone can see how much it protrudes?
My Pro does have the washer installed.
Quoted from max_pinball:The post is screwed in from above with a wood screw like buttom of the post . But thanks for the answer
OK, that explains a lot. I was (and likely others) thought it went thru the PF and was secured w/a nut.
As others mentioned, toothpick is an easy fix.
Quoted from mbwalker:OK, that explains a lot. I was (and likely others) thought it went thru the PF and was secured w/a nut.
As others mentioned, toothpick is an easy fix.
Edit: Weird thing is, your picture below sort of indicates it should be a threaded post w/a nut since is goes all the way thru. If I get a sec, I may lift my PF and check mine. With a wood screw, you wouldn't think they would drill all the way thru the PF, or if they did, it would be undersized.
Since I'm home, I lifted my PF and took a quick picture. The red circle is the metal on the left side of the shooter lane. That nut secures it. The blue area is where your post would be. There might be a hole under the plastic support that I don't see. I guess the plastic support could use the same hole, but not sure if that is the case, plus the screw looks a little small for that size of hole.
I guess in the end, don't overthink it too much. Stick a toothpick or two in there and you'll be fine. It would be interesting to see the backside of your PF tho.
My SnipIt seems to agree w/the manual too.
Quoted from EaglePin:I'm not sure of the part number, but I think it's a "bumper post stud" on the Marco website. Not sure which one though. When mine broke I contacted my distributor and Stern sent a replacement.
Didn't they change/update the post at some point? The way it attaches to the PF? I recall working on my buddies post - but it's been too long. Way back when they initially had PF issues.
Quoted from max_pinball:[quoted image]
Here's another picture I had, rotated sort of the same way as yours. Side-by-side comparison.
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
Wonder if you could something like one of these posts if you didn't want to do the toothpick trick. #10-32 might be bigger than the hole, maybe a #8 or #6 would be better.
Edit: Looks like Marco has some decent options.
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from Only_Pinball:Only problem is it looks like it would be a very tight fit on the nut. Worth a shot for sure
I'd just move the wire support or get a longer threaded post (just the threaded part) and just slip the wire support on it and add another nut. The post would definitely take precedence over the wire support.
It's rather strange this happened, assuming the PF is CNC'd. Wonder if there's something we're missing?
Quoted from baxelrod:What is the best way to level the machine laterally? Especially the back of the play field.
It is pretty easy to use a torpedo level between the slingshots to level the front of the machine. e.g.
[quoted image]
But what about the back of the machine? I have a tiny level that I managed to fit here:
[quoted image]
Is it reasonable to assume this location is square to the playing field?
Another option is to level the cabinet / backbox like this:
[quoted image]
But that doesn't seem like a good idea because the play field could be way off from this.
I use a digital level I bought off of Amazon, or the phone app.
A side note if you use a bubble level: An old trick I learned somewhere is to measure, flip the level 180 degrees, and recheck. If it's the same - then you know the level itself isn't out of whack. I've had some of those smaller Chinese levels be way off.
Quoted from MrMikeman:Here’s a pic of an NOS from slightly earlier.
I can't believe the artwork quality difference. Look at the big green leaf!
[quoted image]
Interesting...just what we speculated had happened.
Thanks for the picture, Mr. Mike.
Quoted from sudbeckrn:Hello everyone
Joining the club later this year with a Pro
Any must have mods I should get for this game?
From post 10135 (kudos to @animal), this is my favorite DIY mod. The Pteranodon is mounted w/a piece of piano wire and it bounces around a bit like it's flying. Very cool effect.
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Another one I like (I made this one myself), is the raptor that slips over the flat plastic raptor on the left.
pasted_image (resized).png
Quoted from purbeast:Are the red springs more powerful than the orange ones?
Also, is there any easier way to check if I have it lined up to the ball aside from just putting the playfield back down and putting the balls back in? It was getting tedious to keep having to remove the balls, lift playfield up, adjust, put playfield back down, then ball back in.
Just get the kit from Marco's. Won't help w/shipping, but at least you'll have all the bases covered on strength.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/10-148-XX
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from LeMansFan:I for one don’t mind when people have little conversations and questions inside a thread. I mean I’m pretty used to waxing my playfield by now but I’m sure I could still learn a thing or two. Maybe next little back and forth will be about something I’m totally green on.
FWIW, this is the wax I use, it seems to be pretty good stuff.
[quoted image]
That's what I use (great stuff). They use beeswax if I'm not mistaken to soften the carnauba rather than silicone. Pure 100% carnauba is as hard as a rock.
Quoted from Only_Pinball:Did you try to adjust the switch? Mine was a tad lose and I was able to angle it up a bit and tighten. Works perfect and provides the most protection by far.
Ditto^^ I use the same protector w/o issues. Use a mix of those on some pins, Cliffy's on others.
Quoted from Grayont:Basically how escape Nublar works is you have to work your way back through the island from the visitors center back to the main gate. If you qualified this in an actual game, it uses the path you took to the visitors center but for the challenge, it uses the shortest path up one side of the island (based on the truck position when starting the mode). During the mode you need to work your way back through the paddocks starting from the visitors center. Each paddock has 3 main phases.
First the rescue phase where shots will be lit to rescue staff. After collecting all rescues two things can happen. If you're at a paddock where you did not capture the dinosaur on your way to the visitors center, you need to capture it on your way back. That's why you're seeing the requirement to hit the set trap targets on some paddocks only. If you already caught the dino for the paddock you're in, you skip the capture phase and go right into the navigation phase. In the navigation phase you must shoot red shots until you find a valid exit, which lights the left ramp to move on to the next paddock. Similarly to regular play, the direction of the truck indicated which paddock you will go to next. Going down a path where you have not captured the dinos already is worth more points for the captures but requires more rescues during the rescue phase.
Also, when using the competition mode that removes some of the randomness it just makes it so that the rescues in each paddock are in the same place (for example the right and left ramps for the visitors center as you noted) and also makes it so you find a valid exit in a set number of shots during navigation phase instead of randomly. Normally the red shots will just randomly open a valid path, where the chances get lower the further you get. In competition the visitors center only needs one red shot to open a path then 2 for the next paddock, then 3, etc, etc.
Hopefully this clears up some of the randomness you're seeing. It's mainly due to which path you take down the island and whether you already have the dino at each paddock or not.
I have a hard enough time just to keep the ball from draining.
Quoted from pacman11:What are some must have mods for the pro? New to the club..
I'm biased...my DIY 3D printed raptor (slips over the plastic raptor).
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pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from CTHOMAS1998:Good Morning. I did something stupid and I need some help. I was installing an Insider Connected kit in my JP Premium. I pulled the playfield out and rested it on the rubber rests. I got distracted, and was out of the room for awhile, and when I came back in, I continued and actually pulled the playfield off the rails when lifting it upright...
Been there, done that. Some manufactures add something to catch the PF if that happens (my Houdini has some wood strips). I've gotten into the habit of putting some soft thick foam in the bottom of the cabinet when I raise the PF.
That little elbow on the Stern rails is not very high. If it was another inch or had more of an acute angle on it, it'd never happen (my fault for doing it tho). I've often thought about 3D printing something. Not so much to completely eliminate another dumb mistake, more of something that gives you a little feedback as a reminder.
Quoted from ralphs007:Does anyone use this stuff ? As long as none of the wire strands are broken, I'm guessing it'll be a good product to have in your toolbox?
[quoted image]
I've used something like that in the past (can't recall the exact brand). Best way to describe it is sort of a thick rubbery glue. Not like silicone.
Quoted from pinchamp:Mines an early build 2020. Burning 1.05 image now and fingers crossed it will boot.
I have the stock 1.03 code if needed (Pro).
Quoted from Pinball1987:Anyone have a pro here with the new code ?
Yep. Was running old movie code. I still had the SD card that had the the original 0.98 so I reinstalled that, made sure it worked, then did a full install of 1.10 (not the quick install). No issues.
Quoted from beltking:My 30th le is here. Picking up tomorrow only issue is have to keep in box a month because I’m moving. Safer just to keep in box.
Also got my pin lift cart today and scooby shipped out.
[quoted image]
Sidebar: Where did you get the pin lift cart?
Quoted from beltking:Did video on lift cart people were asking me about.
Thanks for making the video, that lift cart is nice. Pricey tho.
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