(Topic ID: 248582)

Jurassic Park (Stern 2019) Owners Club. Welcome! To Jurassic park.....

By Scribbles

2 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

10 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #72 Custom Jurassic Park apron cards Posted by Coindropper (2 years ago)

Post #230 Custom Apron Cards for Stern JP Posted by Coindropper (2 years ago)

Post #326 Rules tips and info on some wizard modes Posted by sk8ball (2 years ago)

Post #365 Printable Instruction cards for the pin Posted by PinballZach (2 years ago)

Post #366 The first Full Unboxing Video Posted by ZMeny (2 years ago)

Post #425 Feature Matrix of Pro vs Premium vs LE Posted by Scribbles (2 years ago)

Post #468 How to qualify control room modes Posted by jonesjb (2 years ago)

Post #2298 Keith Elwin explains JP rules Posted by MRG (2 years ago)

Post #3040 Raptor target not registering or "ghost" registering, possible fix Posted by Jesder (2 years ago)

Post #5270 make the jeep work well Posted by Scribbles (1 year ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#6149 1 year ago

I think the set screw is hard to see in the picture, but I believe you can see the red circle I drew in (near the center of the picture)

pic1 (resized).jpg
#6169 1 year ago
Quoted from MUGEN_4_LIFE:

Whats everyone using for plastic protectors? Anyone using them? I asked a few days ago about colored ones but didnt get but one response... Im assuming nobody felt they were necessary? Im going with clear if I can't find colored ones that mesh well with the art.
Also love to find a stern shooter mod but its not a big deal I play the game not the shooter knob!

I just ordered the $15 partial set from Pinball Life. PBL-300-0142-00 They have a fluorescent green tint. Getting clear seemed to be a missed opportunity, but the green may be overwhelming... I will advise how they look once they arrive tomorrow.

#6219 1 year ago
Quoted from 85vett:

Here is mine completely untouched from the factory setting. If anything mine are a bit low which for this game is actually a good thing. The lower the flippers are the easier the "C" and "S/Helipad" shots are. It makes center shots harder but I can hit the spinner and both ramps just fine with a clean shot. I your more concerned about flipper power, I don't think this is your issue at all so I wouldn't touch yours.
[quoted image]

And pictures from my unit built two weeks ago (july 17th) with 1 game on it. The flipper bats seem to be dead-on straight to the tiny dimples in the playfield.

IMG_1245 (resized).jpgIMG_1246 (resized).jpgIMG_1247 (resized).jpg
#6277 1 year ago
Quoted from zeldarioid:

I just got my Prem on July 7th, and did the exact same thing: Didn't stop playing or modding, emphasis on the modding. The mods are *almost* done now, the last remaining (currently known, who knows what inspiration the future may bring) item being the amber shooter rod, which I ordered through my distro with the machine, and it hasn't come in yet (still).
I just made the switch to the proper JP Jeep Wrangler recently, and got confirmation from another user on this site who made the swap and posted pics to confirm which model (thanks again, sergeant !), and this is the one that works perfectly: amazon.com link » ebay.com link
You may need to adjust where you screw the truck to the bracket once or twice to make sure you have clearance with the right ramp's corkscrew rail, but otherwise, it's fantastic! 1:43 scale is perfect, otherwise, I just wish I could've found a number 10 Wrangler for this truck (the one from the T-Rex chase scene w/ Malcolm in the back), but I could only find 1:64 scale :/ Number 12 will do, though! Additionally, you may want to hot glue the doors shut. I only ended up thinking to do that after the mechanism was already back in the machine, and then just hot glued with it in, but it would've been much easier to do while the Jeep was still out (and probably before attaching to the rod, too).
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks for the details! Did a quick ebay search and found the same one from another seller for $15 including free shipping from Maryland! (but they only had one unit).

Happy searching!

#6304 1 year ago
Quoted from jacksparrow0112:

First time pin owner so pardon my inexperience. Came home from vacation to a noticeably weaker right flipper. Skill shots aimed at left ramp hitting somewhere around the raptor cage. I took a look at the flipper assembly and coil stop and didn’t see anything initially. There is some black powder that I could wipe off, not nothing looked out of place. What recommendations do you have for getting my flipper back to working order? I checked the game menu to confirm my right flipper power is still set to where it was before vacation. Thanks in advance.
[quoted image][quoted image]

How many games on the machine? Looks like alot of black dust, which usually means something is wearing more quickly. You confirmed that the power setting is correct, so it is likely a mechanical issue. The coil sleeve comes to mind, but could be the stop. Should be some quick and easy diagnosis of the assembly to confirm what is going on. Question: When you manually move the plunger rod, does it feel like the left flipper and retract the same way, with the same 'feel'?

#6307 1 year ago
Quoted from ectobar:

jacksparrow0112
When you buy a new coil stop, just buy 3 now. They are all likely going to fail. Best to have some on hand.

You can get Stern coil stops everywhere (marco, PBL, etc) about $5-6 a piece. 515-6308-01.

#6318 1 year ago

Just looked at a copy of Stern Service Bulletin #108 which talks about flipper rebuilding. It says beginning with Lethal Weapon 3 machine, they add alignment Spots at the exact center of where they intend flippers to rest. I hadn’t seen the Alignment spot on the upper flipper At all until I was tightening up the post which had become loose. And there it is. The alignment spot for the upper flipper is intended to allow the flipper to be much more even with the post itself. I noticed a number of people have their flipper lower. Some folks have it even.

Can I assume that the tip of the Upper flipper really should be set at the alignment spot?

#6320 1 year ago

Thanks for clarifying. I like it offset but wondered what I might be missing.

#6393 1 year ago
Quoted from Kronnix:

Ok, without going back over 128 pages of comments to try and find an answer.
I've had JP Prem. for a little over a week and have put in over 100 plays. I noticed today that the 3rd flipper post is spinning freely (more or less). It doesn't really "wiggle" but it does spin. When I lifted the PF to try and tighten it, I found that the 3rd flipper assembly would need to be completely removed to tighten. Am I missing something? I had read here that this was a problem for early JPs but didn't expect it over a year into production. Should I be worried about the post being able to spin? Or is it only a playfield damaging concern if it wiggles?
2nd issue: My T-Rex has almost completely stopped eating the ball. The opto seems to work fine as the T-Rex roars every time it enters the mouth. But it's like it closes it's jaw a split second too late. Is there a fix for this?? Thanks in advance!

That third flipper post is crazy hard to work on, but I found a mechanics open ended standard ignition set of mini wrenches works great. Mine was a Craftsman set (part number 9-44778), but with Sears gone, you will have to find a similar set on Amazon. Those wrenches are thin enough to just slide under the flipper assembly to hold the locknut while you tighten from above (playfield raised). In addition, I added a hard nylon washer (about 14mm diam, .8mm thick) to that post, between the playfield surface and the flat steel washer Stern supplied. I then tightened it up while centering it in the playfield graphic circle.. Took some patience but you really WANT to spend this time as you will damage your playfield if you let that post spin and wiggle and do any movement at all.

#6394 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

So you widened the space of the EOS switch, or the flipper button switch?

Both the cabinet button and the EOS switch are quite easy to access, check and adjust if needed. They are both physical switches. The cabinet is an opto switch and you can confirm that it is working properly with the playfield raised. Compare the travel distance between your left and right buttons. They should be nearly identical. When you push the button, the interrupter plastic starts moving and after 1/8 inch or so, opens the space between the sender and receiver LEDs enough to detect the intention. If somehow the interrupter is already partially open without pressing the button at all, then it is take a sneeze to open the path the rest of the way.

And the EOS switch is similar in that you can visually see the EOS contacts and confirm that they actuate at the VERY END of the bat travelling. Again, relatively easy to adjust if needed and you can compare left to right while looking underneath the playfield.

There are other variables potentially (coil issues, power setting issues), but you should eliminate these two easy diagnostics to help solve your problem.

#6401 1 year ago
Quoted from Jeffswack:

on my premium. The left side light under the apron isnt working. Its not a bulb but an led on a tiny board. Any ideas

If the board is bad, you can swap these pretty easy. Not sure if this is the same part number, but PBL has then for $5, such as 520-5307-00

LEDbd (resized).jpg
#6404 1 year ago
Quoted from Jeffswack:

Super noob question but I used my multimeter for 2nd time ever. One of the wires attaching is reading 5. The other is reading nothing

With 5V coming to the LED board, it is either 1) Wired backwards, or 2) Bad board. Neither of these are very common, but then again here you are! I would bet it is #2 (bad board). If it is #2, then [email protected] will send you a new one under warranty.

#6435 1 year ago
Quoted from gorditas:

Is that post drilled off center, like a cam, or is the hole just that much larger than the machine screw that holds it in place? I didn't know there was that much adjustment available there.

If it's like the post at the 3rd flipper, the post runs through a larger drilled hole and thus can be moved quite a bit just by loosening it, and then tightening it back down in a different place. Not sure why they didn't put a metal threaded placement plate under the playfield for post consistant positioning like this. But it works.

#6437 1 year ago
Quoted from Manny65:

I didn't think T-Nuts were used to ensure a consistent position but rather for firmly securing a post without the need to use tools top & bottom, however it could reduce the variance in position assuming the T-Nuts were able to be hammered in consistently.

On my Funhouse, they used a metal plate with three threaded holes under the outramp post to allow it to be moved to 3 specific locations. They could do something similiar to this but with one hole (or use a T-nut), or simply drill the playfield wood hole smaller to match the size of the post itself (seems like the obvious choice to me but....)

8_

#6439 1 year ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Arh yep know those plates - not sure how well they'd go on a post such as the upper flipper on JP that can be subjected to direct full blooded shots from the lower left flipper and the variation in fixing the plate to the underneath of the playfield may not actually improve consistency of the post location. Interesting thought none the less - it'd be interesting the see all the different concepts and ideas that have been tried by the pinball engineers over the years

Occam's razor is the principle that, of two explanations that account for all the facts, the simpler one is more likely to be correct. Perhaps the playfield engineers should just program the CNC machine that is cutting and drilling everything else, to drill the exact right size hole for a T-Nut at the exact right spot. Done. Bada-bing. Every post is located at the exact same position as every other same model machine.

#6528 1 year ago
Quoted from Powerhouse47:

Just got my Pro! Any thoughts on where I should level the bubble? I have 2 boys 8-12 years old. Want to keep it not too fast.

Perhaps 6.0 ... it will slow it down a bit

#6542 1 year ago
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:

1 degree makes a huge difference and using Keiths recommendation of 7.0 is a good starting point. Why should you start from 6.5 or lower if the designer of this game himself says its made for 7.0

I think the original poster was asking about how to set the game to run slower for her young kids. 7.0 is the 'factory' spec for typical adult play, but something less inclined will slow it down as desired for a young kid. That said, whatever it is set to initially, I am sure we would all recommend getting back to the 7.0 as the author designed as soon as comfortable.

#6573 1 year ago
Quoted from 85vett:

It's called stage flipping.
Tip to learn how to do this. This happens because there are two switches on the stack for the flipper button. If you increase the gap of that second switch on the stack it makes the upper flipper slightly less sensitive. In other words gives more room between lower flipper activating and the upper one following. Doing this and practicing helps your brain figure it out. You can then tighten it back up as you get comfortable with it as the looser that gap the longer the delay in flipper activating. Thus you want it tight but learning on a tight stack is really hard and frustrating.

Does anyone know if Stern intended for the two right flippers to operate in this loosely coupled mode? I suspect that is simply an artifact of their schematic and manufacturing differences with the blades themselves. Depending on the assembly of the button stack, each game will have a different offset. My machine has both of the blade contact stack pairs touching essentially at the same time. I could bend the blades to give me more timing space between the two, but I feel like Stern wanted them to be the same. But then again, they could have used a single pair of contacts (like the left one) and operated BOTH right upper and lower flipper coils in software at the same time. I am confused on this one...

#6578 1 year ago
Quoted from DudeRegular:

It is intended. If your game doesn't do that, a quick adjustment to the leaf switches on the flipper buttons will remedy it.

Yup. I took a look and can easily tweak the blade to put some space between the time the first set and the second set make contact.

Related topic: mechanical contacts seem like a big step backward versus the opto-set used on other machines. Still a bit surprising, but then again the much lower cost must be driving that choice. An opto set like Williams A-20207 (including LED, Detector, molded plastics, a few resistors, the PCB, connectors, leaf spring and screws) probably costs $2.50 all in for a volume production line. The machanical blade approach and two screws are probably 30-cents or so. To get an idea of their costing structure, I multiple their COST by 10X to get an idea of what the retail price would have to be increased to pay for the parts.

#6589 1 year ago
Quoted from Lounge:

Vinyl or CDs? Solid state or tubes?
Your choice.

Not /quite/ the same. When a machine is put out on a route, opto will behave the same on Day-1 and on Day-1000. (Unless it fails altogether). With mechanical switch blades, they change behaviour over time and may take tweaking periodically if you get some aggressive players for a few months slowly bending those blades, not to mention dirt and grime that can cause them to respond poorly. I am not certain which hold up longer, but I would guess the optos have higher consistency in performance. (Yes, I may be showing my age as those cabinet mounted contact blades used to switch the COIL voltage directly on some of the circa-60s machines which would destroy the contacts due to arcing with a few thousand presses).

#6608 1 year ago

July 19th build. Playfield smooth like glass. No issues at the 5 week mark...

#6612 1 year ago
Quoted from Hop721:

July 21 build (pro) and no playfield issues. I would suggest you double check tightness of the posts, however. I’m not sure if stern is leaving them a little loose to avoid the clear coat problem, but I’ve had a couple loosen up a little over the last couple of weeks. Particularly the one in front of the 3rd flipper.

I had the same 3rd flipper post loosen up after just a few games. That gave me the opportunity to find my Craftsman mechanics ignition wrench set which is just thin enough to slide under the flipper asseembly plate and hold the locknut which I tightened from above. I positioned the post dead-center into the graphic circle and installed a hard nylon washer between the post washer and the clearcoat surface. Seems to be fine now and I feel the clearcoat is somewhat protected from post damage.

#6625 1 year ago
Quoted from Audiofreak:

Had the same problem on my Pro. You can bend the leaf switches from the top of the playfield, there are 2 per slingshot.

But try to be very careful with the leaf switch contacts. Usually bending closer to the mounting block is best as it take very little to make the adjustments at that point.

#6645 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinballpal:

Thanks for the reply. I was hoping it was just wired wrong. I wonder why it does not work?

Bulb good?

#6649 1 year ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Sorry a what??

The LED bulb itself may be bad. Yes, I know it’s an LED, but it plugs into a standard bayonet bulb socket so it fair to call it a bulb. In any case, it could be bad.

#6661 1 year ago

Just opened my JP Premium backbox to put Tim's 1.02v29 audio update card in, and while I was there, stopped to look at the pathetic undersized speakers. Really? 4-inch speakers with the smallest magnets you can buy for a 4-inch speaker. Really? Anyway, I get the LE uses a different bracket and 5-1/4 inch speakers, but I am thinking of just getting some pretty decent 4-inch speakers to swap in, without any big effort. The Kicker 43DSC40's seem to be a great choice. $50 for the pair and should have good performance in the mid and high-end of the speaker feed.

Anyone else played this low-cost upgrade game? I hate spending another $175 for a PBP or FF full speaker upgrade kit, but for $50 it would seem to be a good economy upgrade. (And I could get a much higher quality 6-1/2 inch woofer for $25 if I cared to)

Thoughts?

#6665 1 year ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

Did you not like the sound or do you feel the need to upgrade based on what you saw?

Both.

Based on what I saw and heard, it would be enough to consider a change. The backbox speakers they chose are $3 in bulk. Their sound has a shallow mechanical feel to it, and in operation they sound muddy in the mid-range and are missing the clarity of the upper half of the sound. They simply don't move the volume of air that is needed for an immersive experience.

Disclaimer #1: I used to work in a music recording studio and can tell you with each subsequent generation of studio monitor (not the amp, but the monitor speaker) they got heavier, more expensive and noticeably the entire range of tones became richer.

Disclaimer #2: Everybody hears differently. The stated opinion is MY opinion, and your experience may not reflect that of mine.

#6683 1 year ago
Quoted from Scribbles:

Indeed, there it is. That plunger is way off center. Hopefully an easy fix

Plunger alignment is a bit of an art and requires some patience to go through the steps. Anytime you touch the shooter mounting, you run the risk of mis-alignment. The cabinet wood cutout allows quite a range of placements of the final plate. Having done this a few times, I usually mark the cabinet very carefully with blue painters tape on the cabinet surface at all four edges BEFORE I remove the mounting plate as provided from factory. That tape then guides the re-install back to the exact same place. (I had twice this fun when I replaced both shooters on a Funhouse last year, with it's right and left shooters)

That said, If you have already created a mis-alignment, simply put the plate back in and tighten screws partially to allow you to move the plate by hand with some pressure, but tight enough to stay where you leave it. Align the plunger with the ball visually when the playfield is lowered in place. Try to get it dead-on center. Then raise the playfield and tighten the screws into the plate.

#6700 1 year ago
Quoted from tyson171:

Another quick question, is there a pack of updated videos that can be used along with Tim's audio package? Just looking for some direction! Thanks in advance!

DELETED

#6701 1 year ago

I had a couple of folks ask about my experience with Win32DiskImager and Tim's file. Here is the process I used...

1. Purchase an 8GB SDCARD, Ideally a Class 10. Stern uses ADATA MLC cards in August, but any name brand should be fine.
2. Send Tim an email using Pinside contact email and he will send you the link
3. Download the file. It is a single ~8GB file, so make sure you have the space
4. Download Win32DiskImager from the Internet. You can get it here: https://sourceforge.net/projects/win32diskimager/
5. Install Win32DiskImager
6. Insert SDCARD into your PC using a USB-Card reader, ideally a USB3 slot is used. NOTE WHICH DRIVE LETTER IS ASSOCIATED WITH THE NEW CARD
7. Start Win32DiskImager and on the right side of the screen, select the Drive Letter of the new USB card
8. On the left side of Win32DiskImager, select Tim's 8GB file
9. Hit the Start button on Win32DiskImager and it will take a few minutes.
10. You should get SUCCESS message.
11. PULL AC POWER PLUG out of wall.
12. Open the backbox up, carefully moving the glass, and notice the main CPU module in the center. There is an SDCARD slot on the top right surface.
13. Apply slight pressure downward on the CARD that is already installed, and it will spring out. Pull out and save this card!!!! It is your safety net and will likely want to stay with the machine along with the manual.
14. Put the newly created CARD in the slot, and press downward IN until it clicks.
15. Close backbox.
16. Plug power in and boot machine. When you see the JP logo, you can confirm you did it correctly.

#6734 1 year ago
Quoted from dimthedaylights:

Just joined the club. My first NIB premium. Been following the forum but if anyone has any quick suggestions on what to do right away so I can make an order I’d appreciate it! Titans and replacement balls already ordered.

Keep an eye on the new titan steel balls. Some get magnetized more than others.
Trex is definitely going to magnetize the wrong type.

#6772 1 year ago
Quoted from Moelabby:

Anybody know where to get a lighted amber shooter rod. Seems sold out everywhere

Modfather has three different versions of the amber rod for $100, and you can add some yellow LEDs to the plate yourself with an electric drill and some epoxy. (I have some extra pinhead LEDs and a resistor if you go that route and need them that can be installed in a tiny little hole if you DIY the plate. Just add wire and a connector to CN15 on the cabinet node board)

#6787 1 year ago
Quoted from mcvetyty:

Thanks man! Good to hear these are normal, but to clarify these weren't the PF defects I was referring to.. These were just questions I had to see if things needed to get adjusted/tuned as a result of finding other things wrong with my PF such as pooling in one area and wood grain. Out of curiosity, would you consider the wood grain here a defect or randomness of the pinball hobby?
https://imgur.com/a/rNzysQs

Looks like many of the machines produced and as far as I can tell, does not affect the ball rolling. Some PF are perfectly smooth, some have grain, some have defects. The playfields have different 'peculiarities' based on which batch your are in, very few are perfect, based on comments here. Yours appears to have some grain, like a number of the folks here...

#6820 1 year ago
Quoted from Galvez1978:

Hello friends, can i make question? I want reserve a JP Pro but here in Spain are all sold out, my local distributor have only one Premium in stock, he will receive the Pro in the middle of next year, i must wait for the Pro? Or go to the Premium?
The distributor offered the Premium with 10% of discount, side arts and shaker motor for free.
Thank you so much!

Take the premium!!! No questions, far fancier machine, 10% off, etc. (And I would NOT count on any distributor getting any specific machines 'next year'. JP could go out of production easily and then no PROs would happen. It's an unknown what happens in Stern's production line). And remember that the 10% discount you'll get, plus the $300 worth of mods you can skip with make it similiar in price). Plus it's HERE NOW

#6848 1 year ago
Quoted from Galvez1978:

I just buy the JP Premium and the shaker motor, but i do not received yet, you know it are any tutorial for install it? Regards?

Two things I suggest when you are ready to install the shaker motor:

1) get some nylon cable tie-wraps and tie the wiring to the existing wires that run from right to left behind the cash box. It will make the installation much cleaner and prevent any tugging on those cables accidently if you pull the cashbox out. I used 5 tie-wraps.
2) get some BLUE thread-lock liquid. Harbor Frieght sells both RED and BLUE for $2 a bottle. Get the BLUE and put a drop on each thread before you screw the four screws into the cabinet mounted T-Nuts. (Blue is the medium strength, semi-permanent type)

Note1: The Premium is pre-drilled and T-Nuts installed, but not very consistently. I would use a small hammer and tap each of the T-Nuts into the cabinet from underneath before you try and install the shaker motor screws from up top. The provided longer screws that go through the cabinet are 'just' long enough if the T-Nuts are tapped in properly.

Note2: The two self-threading hex cap screws that hold the plastic cover on will be a challenge to get installed, but they WILL work! The brackets are somewhat moveable with some pressure, so just stay at it and it will thread with enough energy applied! Get the first one in, and then push/tug/press the cover front to back to front to meet the second hold and press hard when it starts to line up!

#6861 1 year ago
Quoted from zeldarioid:

Here are pictures of the process and result, with some details of the process for attaching the replacement Jada 1:43 scale Jeep.
1. Beneath the playfield, find this hex screw that is holding the shaft of the truck spinner in place. Using a 3/32nd size hex key, unscrew and slide this off, putting it somewhere safe.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
2. Note the two washers between the playfield and the truck; metal washer on bottom, nylon bearing washer on top. Don't lose these!
[quoted image][quoted image]
3. I pre-drilled some holes in the bottom of my Jeep to make it easier to reuse the existing screws. I lined the mounting plate up to the bottom, stuck a 3/32nd drill bit through the holes to make some marks on the bottom of the Jeep, then drilled where I wanted to mount. You'll notice a few holes higher up, towards the front axle. I initially had the Jeep mounted there, but when I reinserted it into the playfield, found it made contact with the corkscrew habitrail return of the Pteranodon ramp, so I moved it back, which...
[quoted image]
4. In order to do so, I had to trim off 1/8-1/4" of the raised plastic portion in the back center of the Jeep. I used flush trimmers to make initial cuts, and then likely some pliers to rip the pieces off, cleaning up as necessary afterward. This enabled enough clearance for the screw on the opposite side of the mounting bracket so I could position the Jeep far enough back to clear the corkscrew habitrail. Note the gap between the raised plastic on the Jeep now and the screw on the mounting bracket, as well as how far back the end of the bracket is compared to the spare tire on the back of the Jeep.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
5. I highly recommend putting some hot glue in the doorjamb of either car door to seal them shut, otherwise they may open as you play the game, which could interfere the ramp and/or ball. Plus, it looks silly having the doors flung open hah.
[quoted image]
6. Note the distance now between the Jeep at various angles and the corkscrew return.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

NICE POST!!!! I am going to play with the mounting in your Step 4 a bit. While solid initially, I can't help but think that the jeep to bracket stability will change after 1000 whacks. Its metal to plastic which changes integrity over time. The main idea is to get the metal bracket in contact with the Jeep plastic underbody more, and reduce anything hanging in the air. To do so, I may try to drill another larger hole where the dark rod screw is in the center to allow the dark screw head to extend up into the jeep, allowing the bracket itself to sit 'more flush'. I may also look at add a few metal washers between the bracket and the body plastic to eliminate the remaining 'air' which is accurately called in the scenerio "wiggle room". Stay tuned...

#6864 1 year ago
Quoted from zeldarioid:

I'm sure that will be more stable, for sure, though I haven't had any issues with mine since installing it like this over a month and hundreds upon hundreds of plays ago, so I'm not too concerned yet! You'll need to fully remove the big raised plastic portion over the back axle in order to sit the mounting bracket more flush, or instead maybe put some blocks to screw through between the mounting bracket and the bottom of the Jeep?

I am going to try some things this weekend. I will report back...

#6887 1 year ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

Pro vs premium. Let’s hear it. I believe the two differences is the T-Rex doesn’t move back and forth, and something about the raptor pit. Can someone elaborate on that difference?
I always felt the premium was the way to go on this title until I read what dontpanicflip had to say about it and I respect his opinion due to his great streams. So wanted to get some more thoughts. Thanks!

Various differences have been discussed a bunch on these threads, but along with the pit and trex, don't forget the helicopter on the right side.

#6903 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

It's official - I just put in my JP Premium order! Looking forward to joining the club in what is hopefully a few short days. Thanks for everyone's insight and support in helping me make my decision.

So you have a week or so to compile a set of MUST DO's. Let me start you off by suggesting that you immediatly getting an order into Cliff to get his shooter-lane protector kit. Everything else can wait IMHO, but playfield damage is possible day-1. You could/should also turn down the coil strength for the ball trough coil (maybe just under 200 or so), but the stainless steel protector would be the right answer. Place the order today.

Then you can look at: 1) a washer under the left shooter ramp steel tong and lower the shooter autolauncher coil to 200 or so, 2) putting a non-metallic washer under the post at the tip of the third flipper. (Cliff has a new carbon fiber one for a couple of bucks you can get at the same time).

Lastly, over the next few days try to go find a mechanics ignition miniature open-end wrench set since you'll need that to adjust a few playfield posts and other items, INCLUDING the post I mentioned above in #2 which is mounted underneath the flipper assembly itself. Regular wrenches will NOT fit since the space between the playfield wood and the underside of the metal flipper bracker is very narrow! The aforementioned wrench sets actually fits in that space.

#6910 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

If only I could get off that easy. Here's what I'm already committed to besides the pin:
- Stern Topper
- Stern Shaker
- Backbox & Cabinet speakers
- Speaker Lights with 5.25" mounts
- Side Blades (Tilt Graphics)
- Cliffy Protectors + Carbon Fiber washer
- Pin Stadium Omega lights
- Safari Farms Nanny Goat with I will paint to look like the one in the movie
- JP Jeep to replace the one on the newton toy
I'll be doing a few of my own decals/graphics, custom apron cards, and 3D printed mods over time after the pin arrives. Also, I'm hunting down the Stern amber shooter rod as well as being on a backorder list with my distributor. I'm sure I'll outfit the pin with Titan rings (haven't decided on colors yet), trees, dino figures, etc. I'm on the fence with the fluorescent plastic protectors, but I have them on my AFMr and they look great - just not sure if that's the look I want on JP. Oh, and I've never done any lighting mods for Stern, but custom illuminated flipper buttons are on my DIY list.

But day-1, make sure the shooter lane is protected...

#6952 1 year ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

Yea 6-8k pinball machine... putting a dremel literally on the playfield at an awkward angle to avoid taking out a single screw is the most absurd thing I’ve ever heard. No offense.

I think you can Reduce the height of ramp screw anyway that works, but doesn’t grinding it in place spread all of the metal shaving fragments around the playfield, under the plastics and ramps, etc?? Seems like a lot of cleanup required. Stern was so thoughtful to make it easy to remove that screw by including a cutout in the metal plate above on the tower entrance purposely to allow that screw to be removed easily. Seems like an approach worth considering...

#6987 1 year ago

I've noticed the post sleeves near the TRex ramp feel like they are made of leather after a few plays... 8-) But seriously, you'll want to replace a few of these things regularly. You can swap them for color, or for bounce or for both reasons. And you'll find at least 3 different 'green' sleeve colors depending on who you source from, and whether buying opaque or translucent rubber sleeves.

#6993 1 year ago
Quoted from Galvez1978:

These Jeep it's for replace the stock Jeep? Where can i buy it? Thanks!!

Google: "JADA 1:43 JURASSIC JEEP"

#7000 1 year ago
Quoted from ZZZ_spy_hunter:

I ordered a JP prem a week ago and the dealer said it would ship in October from Stern. What are the odds that will actually happen?

There is another run in October, so if he confirmed that his pre-order is on their list, the odds are pretty high. I think he would be assigning your address to one of his slots.

#7026 1 year ago

Short of putting Stadium lights in a JP, has anyone else been able to lighten the playfield with bulb replacements or other "tricks"?

#7050 1 year ago
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:

My autolaunches are getting worse to a point it really pisses me off and I do not know how to fix it.
I realigned the shooter fork, did the washer fix and lifted up the heli ramp a littlebit, since the ball sometimes touches it from below.
Yesterday I took alot of slomo videos. One big problem is the thin metal flap on the right side of the shooter lane. Its enough send the ball into the opposite direction, leading to massive rattling. However sometimes the ball launches perfectly straight and it still wont make it up the ramp. Any ideas?[quoted image][quoted image]

The airball launch seems to be related to the auto-launch mechanism's forks. I can't think of anything else that would send the ball into the air at that stage of shooting. (The ramp forks and the left tong washer 'fix' get involved later up the ramp in a properly working machine). Perhaps you adjusted those autolaunch forks way out of spec? The coil power could be too high as well, but there is something else drastically wrong because the factory setting for coil power does not normally make airballs. The ramp fork and washer furthar up the lane may also be wrong and need to be corrrect, but the ball is literally flying over those in your video, so start with fixing the autolauncher first. Try to get it back to 'factory'. Its possible both forks of the autolauncher are now touching the ball, but they are BOTH too far forward or too far back. (my vote is they are BOTH too far back)

You may need to post a snapshot of how the ball is sitting in the lane before it is launched. Remove the apron and shoot picture top-down so we can see how the ball is sitting in the lane at rest.

Once the airballs are fixed, you should show us some slo-mo of MANUAL launching as well to help resolve the shooter land left tong/washer/coil-power issues.

#7052 1 year ago

Just got an email saying that Powerbladez for JP are on sale for $249 through Sunday. This is the animated side graphics version. Looks amazing, but I am curious how something that expensive would hold up after a couple times of lifting the playfield. I feel like one bad lift and the Powerbladez become a "No-Power Bladez"

Anyone have comments on their experience with this type of powered sideblades?

https://www.pingraffix.com/product-page/jurassic-park-pinball-powerbladez

#7056 1 year ago
Quoted from Soulstoner:

They're ringing up as $299 for me. Typo in the e-mail?

The email is very clear. Regular price $299, now through Sunday $249. You may have to call them if the cart/checkout dowsn't adjust before you hit the final buy button.

jpbl (resized).jpg
#7076 1 year ago

All, anyone that really wants a lit amber shooter can source the $99 one at Modfather, then add $5 worth of LEDs (drill two holes in the existing shooter plate), 2-feet of wire, two 150ohm resistors and a .156 connector (marco for $1). This is the DIY shooter but apparently will save you $250!!!! And if you don't care about the lite-up, then just spend the $99 and you can install in 5 minutes.

#7083 1 year ago
Quoted from DugFreez:

I have heard a lot of talk about this....yet I have never seen a video or even a post about anyone actually doing it. Why isn't someone looking to make that cash grab selling these after market game controlled shooter housings for Jurassic Park and Stranger Things?

I am going to build one this weekend and will take pictures of each step and post those pictures accordingly. It plugs into the same CN15 connector, so whatever the Stern unit does, the DIY unit will do too... I posted the schematic a month ago in case anyone wanted to do this themselves.

And apparently I can sell them for $400 a piece... (LOL)

12
#7094 1 year ago
Quoted from DugFreez:

I have heard a lot of talk about this....yet I have never seen a video or even a post about anyone actually doing it. Why isn't someone looking to make that cash grab selling these after market game controlled shooter housings for Jurassic Park and Stranger Things?

I made another one today, making sure to take pictures along the way. You can see the parts: The two LEDs, the two 220ohm resistors, and the .100" connector, plus THREE 36-inch pieces of stranded 24GA wire. I reused the shooter plate and the backer plate.

TIP: Before taking the factory shooter plate out, use some blue tape on the FRONT of the machine on all four edges (see in picture #19) which makes it much easier to put the modified shooter back in the exact same spot.

The most delicate part is drilling the powder-coated shooter plate, because you want that to look perfect. You can see how I drilled the shooter plate from the front and using blue painters tape after I measured the right place. (Approx 3/4" in from each edge, and about 1-1/4" down from the top. I use Blue tape to keep everything clean of residue. I then glued in the LEDs from the back using superglue-brand adhesive (not thin superglue, but their thicker Fixall adhesive you can get at Dollar Tree). I let dry for a couple of hours. Notice I used yellow water-clear light-pipe style LEDs to have a tiny hole visible from the front, but any type of LED can be used.

In picture #13 you can see that I also drilled a small hole on the back support structure to allow a tie-wrap to fasten the wire to the metal plate itself. I also had to cut a small slot in the steel backer plate to allow the wire to pass through. This is the same approach Stern uses for their version. Finally, I tie-wrapped the 3-wire bundle every 6 inches and then routed the three wire bundle around the coin door, and plugged connector into CN15.

Note: The wires must exit the plate on the left side, so after I took the pictures, I remembered that they need to exit left instead of down, as shown in the pictures. Easy to bend the cabling to exit left.

Viola' !!! Yes, it behaves just like Stern's version. The LEDs have a left/right fading effect, rather than just always ON as would have been the case if powered by any other power-source like most other mods do. If they ever do more in software for their own lighted shooter, this one will respond the exact same way.

IMG_1325 (resized).jpgIMG_1326 (resized).jpgIMG_1327 (resized).jpgIMG_1328 (resized).jpgIMG_1329 (resized).jpgIMG_1330 (resized).jpgIMG_1331 (resized).jpgIMG_1332 (resized).jpgIMG_1333 (resized).jpgIMG_1335 (resized).jpgIMG_1336 (resized).jpgIMG_1338 (resized).jpgIMG_1339 (resized).jpgIMG_1340 (resized).jpgIMG_1341 (resized).jpgIMG_1342 (resized).jpgIMG_1343 (resized).jpgIMG_1345 (resized).jpgIMG_1346 (resized).jpgIMG_1347 (resized).jpgIMG_1348 (resized).jpgIMG_1349 (resized).jpgIMG_1350 (resized).jpgIMG_1351 (resized).jpg

#7103 1 year ago
Quoted from kidchrisso:

no pic with the lights on?

here is a short clip MP4 of the shooter running...

https://tinyurl.com/shooterLED

ShooterGif2 (resized).png
#7110 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Well done. So, I assume you may have had some of those parts on hand. If not, and you had to order separately that puts you a little closer to the $139 Stern version price, assuming there would ever be enough supply to meet demand. Nice to know there is a DIY option that gives identical results for a few bucks less. Thanks for detailing this.
I've created for myself and sold a ton of DIY mods (even electrical ones) on Williams, DE, and CGC games, but I'm all new to Stern/Spike 2, so things like this help accelerate my learning curve.

Yes, I did it because of the lack of availability from Stern. The cost saved me perhaps $30 and it took me 30 minutes to build, but I only did it because I couldn't buy one from Stern.

#7117 1 year ago
Quoted from Galvez1978:

The distributor called me for say me i'll received the game this Friday, i must do anything special before first play? Clean or apply wax? Change the balls for ultra shine? I don't know where i read something about this.
Regards my friends!

I strongly recommend ordering cliffy’s shooter lane protectors. Everything else can wait till you have time. If you can’t get them in time, at least turn down trough coil to 195 or so. I added 3 layers of blue painters tape to the lane until the protectors arrived.

#7130 1 year ago
Quoted from Galvez1978:

I read a few days a go your comment about the lane protector, i bought this from PU-Parts, because they send from Europe and i'm not pay customs and the shipping it's more cheap, this lane protector it's ok??
https://pu-parts.com/jurassic-park-shooter-lane-protector
And how many often i must clean and wax the playfield?
Thank you so much.

Any lane protector is fine, but Cliffs are the best and you can get in a week or two in the USA, but his stuff is carried at lots of places. Any would be fine.

#7137 1 year ago
Quoted from Galvez1978:

Can you write the link to buy it? I can't find the JP shooter lane protector.
Thanks!

http://www.passionforpinball.com/ballejects.htm is his website if you want to know more, but he has everything so don't worry if you can't find it. He prefers the following ordering:

Just send an email to him at [email protected], tell him what you need and what machine you have, and give him your PAYPAL email address. He will send you an invoice which you can pay. He ships pretty quick.

#7139 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Can someone please tell me with the inside width of the metal ramp at its base is? I like the Tilt Graphics decal, but they did not use velociraptor tracks (what I want), so in preparation of receiving my JP that is on order I want to design my own decal.
[quoted image]

I recently sold a set of decals from Tilt which included the ramp. You can see the decal with velo tracks on theirs. Is that what you are looking for, or WITHOUT the velo tracks? Also, the decal is not rectangle. It has a curve on both edges. Probably easier for you to cut one out of paper, trim it to fit, matching the curve of the sides, and then on your PC design tool, smooth out all of the edges to feed the shape geometery into a cutter.
pasted_image (resized).png

#7141 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Maybe those are Velociraptor tracks, but I'm seeing different shapes online. Also, I think I have the basic shape from a photo, just not to scale. I've made several different ramp decals in the past for people, but was just looking to get a head start on this one for myself.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I found apicture of the actual set I receivced from Tilt. You can see the tracks ...

pasted_image (resized).png
#7150 1 year ago
Quoted from NightTrain:

Can someone tell me what I'm missing here? I got my game with alternate game software installed. I want to revert it to stock. When I download the Stern zip file and unzip it, I get two files. I don't get a .raw file. What am I doing wrong here?
[quoted image]

They now support both USB loading, and direct to SDcard. You can take those files and put on a USB drive and then power up, but They are encouraging direct these days.
https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/How-to-Create-a-SD-Card-for-a-SPIKE-System-Pinball-Machine.pdf

#7158 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Thanks (actually, I prefer mm for measurements like this).
So, here is my idea of what I want the decal to look like with velociraptor tracks (the original looks too much like bird tracks to me)[quoted image]

I like the new tracks. The original does look like bird tracks a little bit. My only concern with this whole decal is how it will look after the ball travels over it 1000 times. Seems like it might start to look worn or the ink might come off in some places over time. Any thoughts on that?

#7163 1 year ago
Quoted from J-Freeze:

But it IS the pteronadon ramp.

pasted_image (resized).png
Look at the feet

#7181 1 year ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

How the eff do I remove this screw from hell?
[quoted image]

This picture of the fastener might give you some detail on what is supposed to happen. it may not be the exact one, but you'll see what's going on there

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/237-5957-00

#7186 1 year ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

Yes I know about the nut, I got to the point of tapping the screw and it wasn’t budging. I’ve ripped up clear before tapping posts up so I’m not sure it’s worth the hassle here.

If you are concerned with that apron-side fastener, what you could do is use the cliffy's RIGHT side of the protector kit, slides under the side rail easily, and then get PBL's $8 trough lane protector, which is a perfect match for the LEFT side of the shooter lane. PBL's installs with double sided tape, no need to even remove the apron. Put together, they make a perfect lane protector set. They are made of the same finish/grade stainless too...

#7194 1 year ago
Quoted from zh2oson:

Yup. Finally got one and when I opened the package...scratched like a mo-fo. *Shakes fist at 2020*

I thought you were implying that you felt like the bug trapped in amber, with Covid and all the other nonsense we are seeing in 2020....

#7210 1 year ago
Quoted from zh2oson:

It is the Stern one. I would just be really bothered looking at it in it's current state and I'm not going down the rabbit hole of trying to get it looking good through resin polishing.
I've been on the hunt for one of these for months, so extending my search for the foreseeable future won't kill me.
This hobby.

I guess you have three options:

1) Contact Stern support to ask if they have a replacement unit in-hand, in-house right now. Explain the situation and see if Pablo can 'find' a new rod and send it to you now.
2) If #1 does not work, install the blemished one, and then ask Stern support to swap it when they get more in stock. You'll need just the rod for the replacement. This ASSUMES they will get more amber in stock...
3) If #2 feels like a loose end, ask for a refund and then wait for them to be available again and place another order. (Again, ASSUMES more will be coming)

Last I heard, there was another batch coming in November,

#7231 1 year ago
Quoted from mcvetyty:

Yes. Game feature adjustment #306

...Just do some testing man. You want the bare minimum that gets the ball out on the first coil plunge without causing any issues. Mine is set to 190, so I guess start there.

I have mine set at 195, so seems fairly consistent across machines. Also, I installed Cliffy shooter lane protector on the right and matching PBL lane protector on the left. They look perfect together. The only trick is to get the edges of the stainless steel 'just touching' the ball when it sits in the lane. Its really pretty obvious when installing it.

Update: I might lower it a hint more since I just checked the shooter lane this morning and I see just a bit of indentation on the stainless steel protector, so while its doing it job, the coil power level may still be a bit too high.

While-you-are-at-it: Once you find the coil setting for the trough, consider ALSO changing the power of the ball shooter autolaunch coil. Most people (including myself) have decreased that power to 200 or so and find the ball makes the half pipe consistently better with the power a bit lower.

#7246 1 year ago
Quoted from Powerhouse47:

This it?
Product ID: 515-6308-01
Flipper Coil Stop For Stern/Sega

These stops are available from many sources, but they are not all the same! The part number is always listed as "515-6308-01" so that won't help you find any differences, but be advised: PinballLife has a better design version and are generally considered better than other versions, as they are designed and reinforced differently.

#7252 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I purchased 3 new coil stops from PBL in preparation for my JP coming in late October. My question is if anyone thinks Stern will have fixed their coil stop issues in the upcoming production run or should I just replace them day 1 as a preventative measure?
I've been in the hobby for about 5 years, and have never had one fail (never owned a Stern). Is this something common with them, or did they just have a bad batch?

I purchased the same handful of PBL stops, and have them sitting in a bag waiting for the need to arise. I have <50 games on my JP and plan to swap only when the flipper freaks out. (I am trying not to tinker under the playfield too often).

#7259 1 year ago
Quoted from medic7000:

I replaced the stock fan with the low noise one. Does anyone know if you can manually test the fan? I looked in diagnostics and couldn’t find it. I just want to make sure it’s working properly since it hasn’t turned on yet after 10 min

There is no control logic between the CPU node and the power supply. That means the power supply has no integration with any type of settings menu. This is very common when a generic power supply is used with a computer (the CPU node board in this case). You can confirm this by looking at the connections... just heavy guage power wires. (You would see at least one small gauge control wire connecting the supply to the rest of the system)

#7260 1 year ago
Quoted from Sjoend:

I would also advice a shooter lane protector before you shoot the first ball!!
This is my shooter lane after just a few games.[quoted image]

Like many folks getting NIB machines, I didn't remember that protectors were a good thing until the machine arrived. When the box was still sitting on my doorstep, I dropped Cliffy a note to get some steel shipped, but while I was waiting for them to arrive, I unboxed the machine and then immediately I turned the trough coil down to 195 and then PUT 3 layers of BLUE PAINTERS TAPE (LOL) in the lane exactly where you see that wear! It worked great until the protectors arrived... and made cliff laugh when I told him about the short-term solution.

#7269 1 year ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

Did you have a hard time installing the cliffys? I have a set but gave up when I realized I had two hammer out those two screws. Were they a pain in the but? Did they tear clear when you hammered them out?

I used Cliffy’s lane protector on the right rail side and I used PBL’s protector under the apron near the trough For that exact reason that the countersunk screw under the apron was pretty solid and I did not want to take a hammer to my Playfield

#7304 1 year ago
Quoted from Halfwasted:

My jeep is sticking.
Is this an ok lubricant to use?
amazon.com link »
Thanks!

Consider cleaning it first because adding lubricant to a gummed up assembly won’t really give you the designed result. Unassemble it, clean the post and the sleeve, then perhaps add a dust of silicone powder for good measure.

How many games do you have on it??

#7315 1 year ago
Quoted from RGAires:

Installation pictures with no cover to show you! Coil Tests works with no issues.
[quoted image][quoted image]

One thing to consider is putting a drop of BLUE loctite on each of the 4 screws. All that shaking is bound to drive a screw or two out over time...

#7318 1 year ago
Quoted from Metroshica:

Just took order of my JP Pro on Saturday, been loving it! However, got a couple things I'm looking to fix. First, the left ramp seems to not register shots about 5% or so of the time. Seems to register less when the ball is flying fast. I'm having a hard time replicating it as manually triggering the opto with the glass off seems fine. Also, I'm having a big issue with the plunge not making the inverted ramp and feeding to the inlane. It seems like the ball is launching a little bit too high from the shooter lane and just slamming into the flat part of the inverted ramp. Anyone run into either of these and have tips on how to fix them?

Less power will help. Try setting coil power for auto launch to 195 or so. Then the shooter ramp left tong usually needs a small washer inserted. Best to just search this thread as it is discussed many times including the fixes...

#7369 1 year ago
Quoted from ReluctantPin:

So my NIB JP (July, 2020) I now notice all the Stern balls are in some way pitted/rusty, right out the box. In my ignorance I didn't check close enough... put about 10 plays on it. But all the balls? On a new Stern? Is this exceptionally unlucky or are they always this dangerous?

Swapping the balls should be part of your regular maintenance, like waxing/polishing/cleaning the playfield and rubber parts. Keep in mind that the balls in the JP machine must be resistant to magnetic shifting. This means the ball itself picks up and retains some magnetization when the Trex grabs it. Some balls are better than others, and usually advertise themselves as magnetic resistant. I think Sterns JP ship with G100's which are also magnetic resistant.

As for shine/finish, remember the lower the number the shinier, so on other machines I have been using some Titan G16's and replacing them every 250 games. I have not done so on my JP due to the magnetic issue and I only have 75 games on it. I may try these next swap. (All six balls!)

#7414 1 year ago
Quoted from Manny65:

And the lower flippers are positioned with the centre of the bat aligned to the dot in the PF? I do find my timing sometimes off especially in hitting the left ramp and not sure if that is because JP is designed to have the flippers in a drooped position, whereas I'm so used to my B/W machines where that bat is directly lined up with the return lane guide.
Also is there any difference in the amount of play (movement) of the right bat and flipper linkage compared to the left one?

The two lower flippers indeed should be positioned using the playfield dot at the exact bat tip center. (The upper flipper does NOT follow this assembly practice, and is assembled a bit lower than the dot in the playfield). As for the range of movement, should be identical from the left to right bat... they both travel the exact same distance from rest to energized position.

1 week later
#7492 1 year ago
Quoted from Metroshica:

Any recommendations on a shooter lane protector? I'd love to get my covered now before the divot starts to form.

I used a hybrid on my premium. Cliffy’s are great. He supplies the right side rail side and the trough under apron side. Two parts. The right side rail part is straight forward to install, but the left apron part is more difficult and requires a countersunk screw to be removed which may be tougher. What I did is use cliffy’s right side rail part, and then ordered PBL’s $8 stern trough protector part for under the apron. The two makes a perfect set!

#7527 1 year ago
Quoted from newpinbin:

After looking at it again... The spinner is making contact with the switch you are referring to. But the switch is NOT causing the contact to be engaged.

Its a pretty mechanical adjustment, so fairly easy to do. There are two different ways to do so. The easiest way is to loosen the two tiny mounting screws on the switch body a bit, and then rotate the body towards the rotating wire, and then tighten the mounting screws, firmly, but not over-tight to damage anything. The body won't move all that much, but if you are lucky, that is all that is required. The second suggestion is to bend the metal arm on the switch using an electrician's plier, the small kind you can get at Harbor Frieght for $2. The arm is delicate and can be damaged if not careful. A small adjustment is all that is needed. Just bend the metal arm slightly so it is no longer completely flat. Again, this is a bit more delicate to do.

#7530 1 year ago
Quoted from Flipstream:

They'll go through the side of the switch body. Honestly, I'd recommend adjusting the actuator over taking apart the ramp.
I can appreciate the caution, but light pressure is all it will likely need, about the same as a leaf switch. You might put a little too much of a bend and have to straighten the actuator arm out again, or more likely the actuator could pop off the switch body and it will have to be clipped back on again. You're not going to permanently break the actuator arm unless you do something crazy like repeating sharp bends back and forth or try to fold it in half.
Even if you totally destroy the switch, it's a $5 part, tops:
https://www.pinballlife.com/data-eastsegastern-switch-180-5010-04.html
In that picture you can see one side of the actuator clip that pops over the little plastic nubs on the switch body.

Agreed on trying the switch reposition first (I forgot the ramp was blocking it, because if the ramp needs to be dis-assembled, it makes the job more tricky.) Bending the metal lever actuator is quite easy, but remember that the lever itself can become disconnected from the switch body if too much pressure is applied. Use small pliers, bend the arm ever so slightly and see if it helps. Then bend a bit more if needed. "Measure twice, cut once" rules apply...

#7546 1 year ago
Quoted from newpinbin:

This is a must have! Just received mine from the ModFather!
[quoted image]

If you get adventurous, you can add LEDs to the plate and power them from CN15 on the cabinet node. They are controlled by the game itself. I have a diagram posted to show you how.

#7579 1 year ago
Quoted from Scribbles:

For the Trex shot, make sure the entry flap is flat, and try lowering your flipper power. Most here agree, they're too strong from the factory. The 180 horseshoe, has a couple fixes. One is a stronger spring on the plunger, another is adding a small washer under the left "finger" at the beginning of the metal guide. And lastly, the auto plunger teeth may need a slight bend to line up properly.

Oddly, Stern specs the Orange (higher tension) spring for the plunger on the factory documents, but ships the Green (lower) one on nearly all production units. There is one school of thought that Stern engineering realized this half-pipe issue and reduced the spring to a lower tension to try an alleviate that mis-launch. In addition, most folks have reduced their auto-launch coil to around 200 or so. In my experience, when I manually launch using something in the 'middle', it does the half-pipe properly nearly 100% of the time. When I launch with a full extension of the plunger, it misses fairly often. I replaced the Orange spring that I had 'upgraded' back to the factory-shipped green spring too.

But as always, YMMV

#7585 1 year ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Does anybody know what size nut he is putting under the left finger?

I put a stainless steel #4 washer under the fork. You want the washer to sit down IN the milled cavity for the fork. It should NOT be so large that it sits on top of the clearcoat. Also, some washers are thicker than others and I did not measure the thickness of the washer I used. You might use two washers if they are too thin. It doesn't take too much movement of the fork to make a difference. But it takes some experimenting...

#7593 1 year ago
Quoted from gordonshumway:

Been looking at a new NIB. Was almost ready to go with Munster's, then got back on JP and now leaning hard here. I've gotten a little input via a M & JP owner, and thought I'd ask some opinion here.
For less than 2K difference, how does everyone feel about the Pro vs. Premium? Reliability of both? And lastly, I've gotten some quotes from a few Pinside vendors. Does anyone have any smokin' hot places to buy?
Thanks.

If you will need support/warranty assistance, buy local. A good local distributor will work with you to resolve any problems, will likely deliver the unit and help with any ongoing maintenace or warranty issues. (notice I said GOOD).

BUT, If that is not an issue for you, consider the Internet to be your friend. Some of the best online distributors will offer free shipping, no tax and even a discount for paying 'cash'. On a $7500 purchase, those fees can add $1000 or more to your cost! I recently got a NIB from Jason at Classic Game Rooms in GA and had no issues.

My recommendation: There are a handful of great distributors around that you could find on the Internet, find their best price and then BEFORE placing the order, ask here for opinions on working with them.

#7603 1 year ago
Quoted from gordonshumway:

Can anyone list the difference between the Pro and Premium. Excuse me if there is a simple place to look, but the Stern site really doesn't show a bullet list.

https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Jurassic-Park-Feature-Matrix.pdf
Big noticeable items: Animated TREX head, moving Raptor in the pen, spinning Helicopter, 4 up posts instead of 3, metal apron instead of plastic, mosquito bumper caps instead of plain

#7682 1 year ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

Guys, is it cheating to remove the screw so the tower shot is consistent? I’m being told doing stuff like that is cheating. I thought that was pinball tweaking 101. 15+ years in this hobby and I’m second guessing myself.

Not cheating, it's just fixing an engineering design mistake. They spec'd the wrong screw type. Easy to fix: But you need an 8-inch PH1 screwdriver to do easily. You can easily remove the tower triangle directly above it, and then carefully remove that round-head flap screw, replacing it with a flat head version (I think I used a flat head M3-10mm screw laying around, but any similiar screw will work). Then just put the tower plastic back on and the screw won't touch the ball going up the flap/ramp.

#7708 1 year ago
Quoted from RGAires:

Next step is to check the tower shot... sometimes the shot is not fluid and seems to kickback the ball...

Yup, nearly every tower ramp flap has a rounded-head screw that was installed at the factory which is directly in the path of the ball edge. An easy replacement with a flathead screw is all that it takes. (You will need a really long PH1 philips head screwdriver to get it out however... $8 on AMZ)

#7715 1 year ago

Just for fun...

JPS (resized).jpg
#7750 1 year ago
Quoted from GeekedOnPinball:

Fellow JP owners...
I just bought a JP prem that was manufactured in July 2020 so it has no paint near the posts. Is it still recommended to install the cliffy carbon fiber circles under all posts?
Any other big issues where I should install something for the game? I think I'm going to do mylar in the shooter lane unless the cliffy is better?
What about the raptor cage? Anything for here?
Does the outhole drain need one? Seems like it might wear bad there.

Check the Tower Ramp flap and see if the flap hold down screw on the left side collides with the ball. On most machines, it does and makes the shots much harder to get. The most straight forward fix is to remove the screw and then grind it down a bit, or replace it with a flatter head screw.

#7756 1 year ago
Quoted from per3per3:

For anyone that found a good screw to replace the factory one...which size and type worked for you?

I had a bunch of M3 flathead screws I got from ebay from a chinese seller (took 3 weeks to arrive), I think about 3/8 inch long. It was countersunk, but I tightened it down just enough to hold the flap down without bending the metal.

#7772 1 year ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

oh, that's good. So if you wanted to try out 1.03 to see the updates, but wanted to have custom code loaded up on another card, you should be able to switch back without any issues.

YES

#7837 1 year ago
Quoted from Scribbles:

I don't have it, but my understanding is, no, wont work with latest code.

Tim’s version is built into/upon the Stern code itself. He took stock Stern 1.02, then uses the PB utility to replace data blocks for audio and video clips inside the software image file, and then writes the entire new image to the card. Tim’s mods are implanted into the 1.02 code image which then REPLACES Stern’s in its entirety.

As for v1.03, it’s not clear the Tim/Delt mods will ever be ported to the new image structure of 1.03. It’s a ton of work and is very tightly connected to the underlying Stern code structure. The first step would be for PB to be updated to support 1.03, but again the PB developer has not committed to that support yet, if it's even possible (Stern may have intentionally made binary access to the image harder again).

1 week later
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#7939 1 year ago

I guess COVID lockdown gives us all kinds of time to be creative.... Heres what some bamboo sticks, an old corn whisk hand broom and a sheet of hobby basswood turns into in 3 hours.

4FC902CD-9D1C-40BD-8761-D90BB7BE124B (resized).jpeg5706B17A-F2D9-4944-8C73-9779916E6AA2 (resized).jpeg8ADFBFEF-46D5-405F-BCCC-3B73493C702C (resized).jpegA9DAE13E-87A8-412D-A357-7DB9F84B00C9 (resized).jpegDA9CC38F-81F7-4142-B10B-CBB05AFEE82D (resized).jpeg

#7973 1 year ago

Suggest: Locktite Blue (Semi perm), instead of RED (perm)

#8098 1 year ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

Oh, man. If there was a way to wire that up, I'd be in for a jeep with working lights! That would look awesome.

Perhaps there is a way to mimic the use of LEDs found in the sole of some kids tennis shoes? They are ON for a split second during motion, and they are battery powered. Hummm... sounds like something that could be engineering into the JADA Jeep? I know it must just be a battery, an LED and a resistor, and some kind of motion sensor contacts, but small and lightweight. Also, the battery would need to be accessible for a year or two down the road when it needs to be changed. But that seems like a lot of work to just get tiny flashes when the newton ball is hit... but I don't see any great way to get power up there otherwise.

#8107 1 year ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

I removed both of those posts. So far so good, they seem pretty unnecessary.

Odd, I am not sure why the previous owner added the aluminum spacers. Perhaps to keep air balls from getting up there? In any case, good that you went back to factory on that area.

#8110 1 year ago
Quoted from Hokie822:

I cant find that blue chopper anywhere on ebay.

Keep looking for: some variation of "Jurassic World Die Cast MATCHBOX MISSION FORCE VEHICLE 5 PK SET
I got mine last week for $22 shipped, but the prices on ebay can be as high as $30-40 right now

ebay.com link: Jurassic World Movie Die Cast MATCHBOX MISSION FORCE VEHICLE 5 PK SET 1 64 2015
ebay.com link: Jurassic World Movie Die Cast MATCHBOX 2 PACK VEHICLE SET 1 64 Scale 2015

14
#8188 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Maybe it's not so much the theme I like (which I do), but I really like yellow as you can see by what I drive when I'm not out tooling around in my '04 Titan pickup. It's a fun car, but a T-Rex could take it out in one bite.
[quoted image]

This is what I imagine an afternoon could bring to you...

yel1 (resized).jpg
#8230 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

I just found out about some of the guide rails in Avengers could be too close to the pf causing some wear.
I decided to have a look at my JP, and noticed this. Haven't had a chance to take glass off, but does this look normal, or had it scratches the artwork?
Also, any other known areas I should be checking or protecting?[quoted image]

Mine has a similar wear, but not noticeable unless looking for it. I assume the steel ball guide is being hit off the newton ball and wiggles just a hint against the clearcoat. Mine is not quite as pronounced, but I only have 150 games on it. I just did a once over and don't see anything else like it.

#8242 1 year ago
Quoted from mbrave77:

So my shooter rod kit came in. But it came with the regular shooter rod instructions that says “do not remove the inside plate thats already mounted.”
I guess for this one i need to remove that mount and use the new provided one so the wire can get through? Anyone have pics and video as it says i could mess up the alignment?

Tip: Use blue painters tape on the outside of the cabinet to mark EXACTLY where the shooter rod is currently installed. When you swap to the new amber rod, line up the plate to the exact same position outlined by the blue painters tape... I loaded pictures in my previous post #7094 seen here:https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/142#post-5872922

#8268 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I've had a couple of more people ask me about making the 3D printed orange lenses to add to the top of the raptor pit lights. I did this with a special semi-translucent orange filament that I had a very limited sample of, so I cannot make any more at this time.
However, I've since had a couple of people ask for them, so here is my proposal: If at least 5 people will commit at $5 each in order to cover my cost, then I would be happy to order a spool of the semi-translucent orange filament and begin offering these to anyone who wishes to purchase. If at least 5 people are interested in this initial offering, moving forward I'm going to be selling them for $7 per set of 3 instead of $5.
The lenses will be printed using PETG, have 100% infill for best light diffusion, and will come with adhesive on the bottom ready to stick to the raptor pit plastic. The price also includes US postage (for international add $2).
Please post in this thread or PM me, and if/when I reach 5 commitments I will let everyone know.
[quoted image]

I'm in!

1 week later
#8380 1 year ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

Same thing happened to me yesterday. I gave up.

I am quite certain they have been having issues with their server over the past few weeks. I saw the same partial download and then fail issues a couple of weeks ago on a weekend around 11pm, went to bed, and when I woke up the next morning, just repeated the exact same click, and it worked fine.

#8394 1 year ago
Quoted from StoneyCreek:

I'm having same issue with the rejects due to that screw. I want to just remove it and put some mylar tape on that area. Does anyone know a source for good quality thin mylar tape that sticks reliably?

Cliffy made up a special carbon fiber flap with adhesive on one side for the tower ramp entry. Drop Cliff a note. (You might also have him send you a carbon fiber washer for the third flipper end post.) Get the set...

#8403 1 year ago
Quoted from Hop721:

I have (I believe) the same one and I have led backlighting, one playfield spot and led trough lighting installed on it so far. No issues.

Rule of thumb is 1 meter of LED strips (typically 60 SMD LED chips) takes about 15 Watts of power. So if you add 5 meters of LED strips, then you are adding 75 watts to your power budget. Not horrible, but non-trivial either. I don't know how much power is left in a Stern supply after they are running everything. (And keep in mind that when coils fire, they draw significant power, so in steady state there may be left over power, but when a coil fires, there may be very little power left for lighting so you may see some flickering, again depending on how much you have added and which supply Stern is using in your machine)

#8420 12 months ago
Quoted from embryon:

Thanks, I have read somewhere it can only take up to 2amps in total so how do leds rating fit in there

Amps = Watts / Voltage

or

Watts = Amps * Voltage

So you can do the math if you also know the voltage of the line.

#8434 12 months ago
Quoted from Hop721:

If I remember correctly, it’s about 120 watts=1 amp. So, at 15 watts per meter (3.28 feet in American) you could theoretically run 16 meters of leds on that circuit.
Edit: I just now saw Markharris2000’s post. I didn’t do the math, but I may be wrong here. Go with his formula

Not exactly. 120Watt at 120volts = 1.0 Amps

You need to know the voltage and Watts to calculate AMPS, or you need to know Voltage and Amps to calculate watts.

#8461 12 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I'm actually exploring another option, but it may take some time. I'll keep everyone posted if I make any progress. In the meantime, if you want to pursue your idea that would be great too.

Consider using a mercury switch and a N-cell battery. The tiny led lights could flash with any hit, and the battery might last a year or more. You can see a similar approach with those light-up kids sneakers which you can find in the stores.

#8483 12 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Just scored my first 100,000,000 million game . . . wait a minute, everyone else posting has an extra "0" in their number.
Nevermind.
Seriously, I'm just starting to learn the rules a little on this game and trying to accomplish various goals. I've never owned a pin with so much to it, and I can already tell it's going to take me some time to fully understand it. I'm really loving everything about this game!

My first game was 233,000,000 and I have never been able to reach that level again!!! LOL. I guess my beginner's luck has run out and I really need to learn the rules to get to that extra zero!

#8491 12 months ago

I decided it was time to buy a can of 'the best spray lubricant" for a pinball machine, so I thought I would do some research to see how all of the common available sprays compare. Lots of commercial sites recommending their own product obviously, but I found this site to be quite fair:

https://thehomespecial.com/best-silicone-spray/

They recommend the Permatex 80070 Silicon spray, about $12 on Amazon. (close second is WD-Silicon spray, not WD40) Permatex has been around over 100 years and is quite well know in industrial applications... and they are Canadian based (We can tip our hat to our northern friends)

#8509 12 months ago
Quoted from gaubster:

Does Tim’s code work with the latest 1.03 code? I’ve had my Pro for about a month and the last I remember reading is that it hadn’t been tested with the latest update at that point. If so, I’ll consider upgrading to his code.

Often confused by many here on the forum, Tim's code does not layer on top of the machine's existing code. Instead, Tim's code *IS* the full 1.03 gamecode that has been modified by Pinball-Browser to include the A/V updates. When you swap the SD card, you swap the entire game's code. You do not need anything else to run the machine, just a copy of Tim's code successfully burned to a SD Card per the instructions found up top. His latest is Version 39 and you can get by dropping him a note to get the link.

#8514 12 months ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

Is there a place I can get the movie clips and audio to put into my game?

Please read top posts. It's even got it's own thread. Search for "Jurassic Park 2 Custom Code"

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-jurassic-park-2-custom-code-project

#8515 12 months ago
Quoted from pdarbuckle:

I heard about a mod that you can get video and sound from the movie. I found twd one. Where would I find one for jurassic?

Please read top posts. It's even got it's own thread. Search for "Jurassic Park 2 Custom Code"

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-jurassic-park-2-custom-code-project

1 week later
#8581 11 months ago
Quoted from jedi42:

When taking this screw out, does the wireform have to be removed? I can't seem to get easy access to the screw to remove it.

To remove the screw: remove the single tower plastic right above it (one screw), then use a 8-inch PH1 type screwdriver and you'll see the screw can be accessed from directly above easily.

#8587 11 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Is that the screwdriver you bought just for this screw? Have you found another use for the tool yet?

YES, I bought this screwdriver just for use on this screw, and NO I haven't had to use it anywhere else... LOL

#8631 11 months ago
Quoted from extraballingtmc:

Anyone have 1.02 pro code? Can’t get 1.03 to install. Downloaded it 3 times, 3 different sticks, won’t update.

Stern’s servers seem to be flaky on the weekends. Try the download again on Monday...
Also, use the SDCard version and instructions as posted on their site. I tried their download and the Sdcard writing utility process on Friday and it worked perfect.

#8636 11 months ago
Quoted from StoneyFL:

Happy to finally join the club! I ordered my Premium this morning, and it will be delivered sometime next week. Deadpool will enjoy the company.
I also ordered the Tilt art blades, a shaker motor and Pin Stadiums. Any other "must-have" mods I should pick up?

Shooter lane protectors are a must... many folks have applied them BEFORE the first ball was played. Can't wait to play and don't have the protectors yet? Use 3 layers of blue painters tape in the shooter lane until the protectors are received. Cliffy [email protected] has a very popular set. (just send him an email). And if you ARE getting a set of shooter lane protectors from Cliff, ask him for a single Fiber washer for the third flipper end post, and a fiber flap for the tower ramp. He can ship them all at the same time.

#8645 11 months ago
Quoted from rapidflipper:

I just emailed to request these items - want to cover my bases on known issues. Can you please elaborate on the "single Fiber washer for the third flipper end post"? Does this one just go under the post to provide additional protection?

Yes, it just a round carbon fiber washer with adhesive on one side to protect the clear coat under the post. It is like $2.

#8647 11 months ago
Quoted from bent98:

Are those protectors supposed to protect play field or is it to remediate the issue with the ball hitting the screws preventing shots from going up the ramps?

He makes both types, 1) the round third flipper post carbon fiber washer (see my other note on how to install the washer under that post), and 2) the Tower ramp flap which allows you to remove the tower ramp screws and flap all together and replace with a carbon fiber alternative.

Obviously, it's your choice of whether to use each one of these. For me, instead of replacing the tower ramp flap altogether (#2 above) I chose to simply replace the round head screw on the left holding the flap in place with a flat head screw. There are several options here because those flap screws appear to be slightly different places depending on how the playfield/cnc was setup in the factory that day.

#8651 11 months ago
Quoted from colbster:

Just put in an order for a pro, it will be my first (non-virtual) pin! Super excited, got the cliffy protection pack as well based on recommendation of this thread. My 5 year old will want to play, are there any settings in the system options to make the game a bit friendlier to new pinballers?
Cheers

If you own a copy of the movie, you can get ahold of timlah79 and see if he still provides instructions how to update the gamecode to include audio and video callouts from the movie itself.

2 months later
#9641 9 months ago

Re-joining the JP club, second JP Premium just ordered...

#9653 9 months ago
Quoted from Wilberto757:

If all goes well I will be part of the club next week! Had a question though.
Has anyone installed these onto their JP?
They look similar to the official Stern ones but let me know if the quality is comparable.
https://modfatherpinball.com/products/jurassic-park-amber-with-mosquito-shooter-stern

Yes, I purchased one of his shooters and then modified my shooter bracket to include the controlled LEDs. Search for a post of mine in this thread on how to do the mod yourself (or look at schematic below). It's fairly simple if you know this kind of stuff. Would I recommend buying this $100 naked shooter for someone else that wanted a lighted amber shooter? Not if the $150 Stern ready-to-roll kit was available. I did it when Stern was running huge backlogs and the amber shooters and was out-of-stock everywhere. Or if an UNLIT shooter was desireable, then the modfather one if perfect and saves $50

Stern-Shooter-schematic3 (resized).jpg
#9719 9 months ago
Quoted from Wilberto757:

Is there any chance I can save time and money and print this translite from RetroRefurbs at a local shop near me? I dont know if it would cost just as much to hunt down and buy the high pixel image then print it here in Orlando.
[quoted image]

I would treat those graphics as copyrighted material and exclusively available at Retro. The artist spent a ton of time on that image. *If* they would SELL you the digital image, then you could print locally, but I am not sure Retro sells the digital image. Ask Retro if they sell it digitally.

#9722 9 months ago
Quoted from J-Freeze:

Why wouldn't you just buy one instead of ripping off someone's artwork?
That person hand drew all of that for the purpose of selling these, I don't know how long it took but I'm sure it wasn't quick.
I like to be paid for my labor, don't you?

The artist actually posted his progress draft images on this website a year or so ago. He appeared to be working on it for at least a month or longer. He made matching cabinet art as well, and think he factored it for both the older DE machines and the newer Stern machines, so he spent a ton of time as we watched his updates get posted. I would pay him if I wanted to use it in my machine...

#9744 9 months ago
Quoted from PoMC:

Got my Jurassic Pro setup this evening. Already ordered the T-Rex Alive mod and should have that in 3 weeks and Stern sideblades in a few days. Game came with the custom movie code and my wife and I played the first 5, two-player games, on that custom code.
The I popped in the original SD card and we played a game and my wife and I were blown away how awesome the game is. The movie code doesn't match anything going on in the game except the opening scene and is BORING AF to play.
Card has 1.03 on it, will need to check if there's a newer update, but man, I get doing a movie code. But just because it can be done, doesn't mean it's fun to play. My wife was ready to write this game off and wanted BKSOR Premium back, until I popped in the original code.

Where did you get your game that “came with the movie code installed”? Stern doesn’t ship the movie version but perhaps a distributor gave you an older version??? Are you sure it was version 1.03??

#9859 8 months ago
Quoted from Scrimmbo:

when you say plumber washers, what do you mean? I am not familiar with this term.

You might try some FENDER WASHERS. Fender washers are very wide, but have a small hole in the middle. They come in lots of sizes. Get stainless steel if you can find them. Hillman and MCMaster catalogs will show them.

#9867 8 months ago
Quoted from Kidkoffee:

I have Cliffy's in the key areas, but Pinball Life and others sell various washers now for this purpose as well. They are clear silicone. https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-700-0070-00-70
I am going to order some to try out, but have not used them yet. No idea if they work any better than hardware store washers, but they are only $.50 ea and I like that they are clear...Just make sure you order some other "necessities" with them to justify the shipping, or those washers become a lot more expensive lol!

I think those PBL washers (and Cliffy's carbon fiber ones) are great to protect the playfield from the base on a pounding post, but if the intention is to also cover some or all of the already damaged paint, then a slightly larger diameter fender washer could help, as long as not TOO large that it would interact with the ball itself.

#9877 8 months ago
Quoted from mlenow:

I should be joining the club in a few weeks. This premium would be my first NIB purchase. I’m kinda surprised I’d have to ask this for such an expensive item, but what are the odds everything works fine out of the box? Maybe I’m just reading too many complaints on here and FB but I’m curious to know what people’s NIB experience has been like

You have just enough time to email Cliffy and get a set of protectors on order, ready to install when the machine arrives in a few weeks. Drop him a note with what you need. http://www.passionforpinball.com/wip.htm has the protectors, then email him with your order: [email protected]

#9879 8 months ago
Quoted from JMCFAN:

Absolutely. I have a box of mods already waiting.... lol

SUGGESTION: Day-1 - put 1-2 hours aside and get the shooter lane protectors and the upper right flipper post carbon fiber washer installed. Day-1 before you play your second game. 8-)

(See my previous note for what tool you'll need to add that carbon fiber washer to the flipper post without removing the whole flipper chassis! PM if needed).