(Topic ID: 248582)

Jurassic Park (Stern 2019) Owners Club. Welcome! To Jurassic park.....

By Scribbles

2 years ago


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10 key posts have been marked in this topic

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Post #72 Custom Jurassic Park apron cards Posted by Coindropper (2 years ago)

Post #230 Custom Apron Cards for Stern JP Posted by Coindropper (2 years ago)

Post #326 Rules tips and info on some wizard modes Posted by sk8ball (2 years ago)

Post #365 Printable Instruction cards for the pin Posted by PinballZach (2 years ago)

Post #366 The first Full Unboxing Video Posted by ZMeny (2 years ago)

Post #425 Feature Matrix of Pro vs Premium vs LE Posted by Scribbles (2 years ago)

Post #468 How to qualify control room modes Posted by jonesjb (2 years ago)

Post #2298 Keith Elwin explains JP rules Posted by MRG (2 years ago)

Post #5270 make the jeep work well Posted by Scribbles (1 year ago)


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#3085 1 year ago
Quoted from Thunderbird:

What should the speaker ohm setting be for the LE speakers?

The LE's have upgraded speakers - believe they are 4 ohm and why they coded it in .95 to set it to 4 ohm on bootup

2 weeks later
#3313 1 year ago
Quoted from Saucerboy:

Here is the sticker I got with my game.., is it for something? Included manual for size reference.
A few questions
I noticed that once every few games I get a loud popping noise mostly after the game is over or a few seconds of really loud noises. Is this a known issue with a fix?
I also am having issues with the right half pipe. If I use the shooter knob it rarely makes it up the ramp, although if I just hit the action button to get the ball in play, it seems to make it most of the time... is this normal?
Thanks
Mark[quoted image]

The “popping” noise you hear is when you have a match (last 2 digits of your game matches a generated number) - this will give you a free credit (so not really used when on free play). You can turn off the knocker in your settings if you don’t want to hear it

2 weeks later
#3498 1 year ago
Quoted from Coz:

Ive got a really weak upper right flipper. What do you recommend for a rebuild? Is there a kit with all the parts? Also, are there kits to keep on hand for backup? Looking for recommendations

Probably just need to replace the coil stop

1 week later
1 week later
#3794 1 year ago
Quoted from northvibe:

This makes me think JP code name was JAWS to troll everyone.... this is what my post fix came in....[quoted image]

Can you show us what's included in the kit?

#3833 1 year ago
Quoted from DavidPinballWizz:

Can you tell me more about this? How a beaten mini wizard would influence the wizard mode?
I don't own the game yet but would like to in the future. And these subtle things are important for me.
If the puzzle pieces fall into place at the end of your game when reaching the wizard, then it's a brilliant game. (like on twd where multikill values determine the value of horde shots, or played mode total values determine the value of terminus shots)

Even the Visitor Centre wizard mode scoring is based on the number of paddocks that you visited on the way there (if you stick the outside of the map you can get there after visiting 4 paddocks, but if you zigzag through the map then you can visit up to 8 paddocks). This is in addition to the bonus you collect for getting to the VC which is based on fossils collected, rescues made, longest rescue streak, DNA collected and dinosaurs captured.

So I'd be very surprised if Escape Nebular (final wizard mode) doesn't work off your achievement from not only the paddocks but also the Visitor Centre, Museum Mayhem, Secure Control Room mini-wizard modes. And this is also why scoring would be different when enabling to just play the Escape Nebular wizard mode as you'd have none of those achievements to multiple the scoring.

1 week later
#3936 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

I think I've only gotten 2 of the 11 so far (Ankylosaurus, Gallimimus). Do you recall how many you've gotten? Some of them are pretty tough/obscure...

Yep I love shooting combos on this machine - I just need to remember what they all are (as I end up shooting slightly different variations ... which of course I don't get rewarded for )

Gallimimus: Spinner > Truck
Ankylosaurus: Helipad ramp > Control Room
Brachiosaurus: Left ramp > Right ramp > Supply Drop standup
Velociraptor: Left ramp > Helipad ramp > Raptor Pit
Stegosaurus: Spinner > Upper loop > Upper left Supply Drop target
Triceratops: Helipad ramp > Left ramp > Amber target
Spitter: Helipad ramp > Left ramp > Right loop
T-Rex: Spinner > Upper loop > Tower ramp > Truck
Compsognathus: Spinner > Upper loop > Tower ramp > 2x Scoring target
Pteranodon: Helipad ramp > Left ramp > Right ramp > Tower ramp
Spinosaurus: Spinner > Upper loop > Tower ramp > Helipad ramp > Left ramp > Right ramp

1 week later
#4003 1 year ago

Ultra Super Skill Shot which starts a special hidden feature for that player's game - sounds cool!

#4089 1 year ago
Quoted from per3per3:

Thanks, just adjusted them. Pretty crazy that the Stern tech support didn't know that they were adjustable!

Was the leveling screw loose? you should check the height over the next week as if it continually loosening then you'll need to address this before you chip the playfield. Did you check that the up-post coil bracket was still firmly attached to the playfield (as that post had moved quite alot)?

#4101 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Starting or completing?

On completing ...

When Dinosaurs Ruled the Earth

Secret super-wizard “epilogue” mode awarded for successfully completing Visitor’s Center, Museum Mayhem, Secure Control Room, and Escape Nublar. Timed 6-ball 60-second multiball with unlimited ball save similar to Cherry Bomb in GOTG. All Amber features are running (scoring 1/2 your Amber value) and all shots are lit for jackpots of roughly 1.5x your Amber value. When time runs out, all balls are drained and your game ends.

1 week later
#4214 1 year ago

Yep that is a unique month. My game was built on my birthday, so it was meant to be

#4231 1 year ago
Quoted from cooked71:

This guy gets it.

LOL - I'll be lucky to get see the visitor center the way I'm going

1 month later
#4780 1 year ago
Quoted from jdroc:

Heart still thumping after I just beat my previous high a few minutes ago while “taking a break from work”

"While taking a break form work" - love it!!! So how long was this break??

Btw congrats on the great score. Gotta crack the 1B now! (I'm a long, long way from doing this)

#4810 1 year ago
Quoted from Insanity_Falls:

Hey all,
About 800ish games in at this point, and the autoplunger is making it up the S ramp about 50% of the time. It was never 100%, but the first 50 games I'd say it was about 95% and has gone down from there. It also feels like the S ramp is rejecting more shots, but obviously there's no objective way to prove that's not just a skill issue, haha. I know I can go in and crank up the power on the autoplunger, but is this indicative of a deeper problem with that ramp that I need to be worried about? Anybody else run into anything similar?

Does the ball make it thru the half pipe without bouncing off the side walls? There are posts in this thread that refer to the forks at the half pipe that extend down the shooter lane needing to be adjusted, particularly raising the left one by placing some small washers under the fork. This straightens the flight of the ball and stops the ball from bouncing off the side walls of the half pipe and losing momentum.

Does the ball make the ramp if you manually plunge the ball? If it does this ~100% then maybe the issue is with the autoplunger itself, is it hitting the ball more on one side causing the ball to bounce of the side walls of the shooter lane and half pipe?

Also what power do you have the autoplunger set at? If everything physically looks fine, then maybe trying reducing or increasing the power

If you can capture a slow motion video of the ball being fired by the autoplunger and the manual plunger, this may help identify where the issue is

#4893 1 year ago
Quoted from modsbox:

So this may come across as obvious to most everyone here but just in case it helps someone I figured I'd post this evening. Ever since I got my JP2 Pro I've had it set up at what seemed like roughly 6.5 degrees. I got it close to that when I unboxed it according to the playfield bubble and it seemed to play well enough. I didn't have a precise digital level to make it exactly right, so I didn't worry about it. I didn't really want it to play faster... so I just left it.
Then the other night I had a particularly bad game, where I became extremely frustrated at my inability to hit the right ramp and orbit with any real consistency. I had one of these 'Do I just suck at pinball?' moments so decided to play a game on my other machine.
Which happens to be AfMr, and out of the box was apparently dead on right at 6.5 degrees. First game I played wasn't great, since Bally/Williams machines play so differently and it takes a little getting used to. Second game I got 10 bn and was a few hits away from destroying Mars. My best ever game was a 26 bn Rule the Universe (that I'm confident I'll never replicate) but nonetheless it reminded me that maybe I'm not that terrible at this.
At that point I remembered that I had ordered some stuff from Marco a little while back, and 'didn't I order a cheap digital leveler?'
Sure enough I had, and I found it. Test the playfield of the JP2 machine and it reads 6.3. I'm convinced that the playfield angle is too flat, and it's making the shots harder than they should be. So I pulled out the trusty harbor freight hydraulic lift I set it up with and spent some time dialing it in to right at 7.0. I figure I'll start there and dial it back if I don't like it.
Let me just say, the difference is immense. To me it doesn't play all that much faster. But my goodness are the shots to the right ramp and orbit massively, massively easier. And perhaps it's placebo but I feel like the extra slope is taking a little bit of speed off of my shots from the flipper and making slightly inaccurate shots work better because it takes a slight bit of the speed off.
Anyway, I feel like an idiot for leaving it as it was so long. I thought I just sucked at the game. And I understand that per the manual it is supposed to be at 6.5. But my goodness. All the other shots are easier for me too. Maybe I'm used to AfMr as such a high speed game so I feel more comfortable? I don't know. But it makes me very curious what other people have their playfield angles set to, because at least to me just a bit of angle changes has made the game play dramatically differently.

Yes Keith has indicated that JP2 has been designed for 7 degrees, so seems you've worked this out for yourself

#4901 1 year ago
Quoted from Gtrefraction:

Just curious, does anyone else have issues with the ball getting stuck at the top of the spitter lane? I removed the wire guard at the top and haven’t noticed any negatives as far as gameplay?

Yep common problem. You don't need to remove the one way gate, just raise the left hand side marginally up (the circled end of the bracket should be just above the top of the ball guide). There is no need to loosen where the bracket attaches on the right side, as there is enough flex in the bracket to lift it the 1-2mms you need.
JP2 Spinner Gate (resized).jpg

#4918 1 year ago

That score's insane! Congrats thescottiep - how long was the game??

1 week later
#4982 1 year ago
Quoted from rickyray:

Having issues with the "C" target sometimes registering on my Pro. Happens maybe 10% of the time. Any thoughts on the cause and fix? Thanks.

Haven't heard of this being a common issue. Have you tried going into test mode and checking the switch? It could be that there is too much gap between the switch points, or maybe the switch has moved to side a little (enough that some balls don't always trigger it).

#4983 1 year ago
Quoted from noob-a-tron:

I just bought an Elvira LE and i think this will be next, might go the premium is it worth the extra dollars? I am in oz and a pro is $9450 and premium $12250 i think. I played a pro when it first came out and loved it. Just debating pro/premium any input would be appreciated.

Hey mate

The T-Rex animatronics is very cool and I do enjoy the raptor gate and captive ball over the Pro - that said yep it is a fair bit more coin. If you can afford it I'd say do it

#5022 1 year ago
Quoted from WedgeTheJedi:

Hey all,
Just got this machine, my first pin, and wanted a quick reference guide for the paddock bonuses. Threw this together as a 3x5.5 in card and looks great. Enjoy.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Mate well done - looks sensational!! This has to be the best first post of Pinsider

#5026 1 year ago
Quoted from jlock:

Hi,
I got a NIB JP Pro last week. The ball keeps getting stuck at the top of the outer loop, up against the gate in the spitter lane. Please see attached picture. When it gets stuck there, a gentle nudge isn't generally enough to free it. It is pretty snugly rested between the lane guide and the gate. Any ideas for a fix? Taking the gate off would apparently fix it but presumably the gate is there for a reason. Any advice appreciated. Thanks.
J.R.[quoted image]

Yes known issue - just need to pull gently to lift the left side of the spinner bracket up above the ball guide.

Edit: The left side of your spinner bracket does seem to be above the ball guide, so maybe lift that left side another 1-2mm (the bracket will easily flex so not much force is need). Lift it a little and see if it still happens,if so lift it a little further. If set correctly and the ball stops here, then it will actually open the gate and come down the spinner

JP2 Spinner Gate (resized).jpg

#5033 1 year ago

Thanks WedgeTheJedi - much better than using the jpeg image

#5038 1 year ago
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:

in my experience there is no single part "metric" in pinball machines. i have had to buy all my tools new.

Yep, know the feeling. 2 sets of everything

#5067 1 year ago
Quoted from Andy_Chapman:

New member of the owners club here! Finally got my JP Pro delivered last week after 2 months of waiting... and I'm STOKED!! This is also my first pin so is extra special =)
This was an ex-operations pin (only 6 months of use) so hadn't been given much love. I was proud that I was able to fix a few minor issues and felt like a proper pinhead doing so. There is a couple of issues that I cant fix though...
Firstly the truck wont always return to the newton ball when given a light hit, this occurs on both sides. You can see in the photos that it stops about 10mm before. I've added a little lubrication, and with a little shaking it will return to its resting place. It feels like it is catching on something but I cant see the issue. Anyone else had this problem and know if a fix?
The second issue is when the ball is feeding to the flipper via the right inlane. As the ball passes the thick end of the flipper it bounces out slightly and doesn't run smoothly down the flipper. Before I gave this a good clean I noticed that the dirty ball trail on the playfield also angled away from the flipper on the right side a little. Any ideas on how to fix this?
I'm pretty new to the scene and the forum, so pleas advise if this is in the wrong place. TIA for any help!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Hey Andy - welcome to the club mate!

Someone else posted in the last 1-2 month's that they were experiencing a similar issue to you with the newton ball stopping/catching before it reaches the static ball. I can't recall what was found on that particular one, but a few things the game was designed and plays best around 7% angle and make sure it's level side to side. There should be a small amount of movement up & down on the shaft and people have found that it does seem to gum up over time - solution is disassembling it and lubricating (check out post https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/72#post-5414130). You might also need to inspect above and below the PF as to the cause of it catching

In regards to the return lane with the ball jumping when it travels between the ball guide and the top of the flipper, you need to loosen the screws on the ball guide and gently put force of the ball guide to align it better with the flipper and while holding pressure on the ball guide tighten the screws. You may need to do this a few times to get it aligned right - it's just part of dialing a machine in.

#5083 1 year ago
Quoted from gblack:

Did anyone else catch the co-op / team play in the TMNT stream? What are the chances JP could get those modes to share progression?

Quoted from gblack:

Agreed. It seems like it wouldn’t be overly difficult to implement and would add a lot of variation to the play modes. One can hope since they made it happen for TMNT.

Yes I enjoy playing co-op mode on TNA and think it is a great addition when you have a group of people playing as it creates extra interest & excitement watching others on your team

2 weeks later
#5466 1 year ago
Quoted from gblack:

At what point in the pf? Keith said 7 but no relation to top or bottom

PF's are meant to be straight (ie no bowed), so the angle should be the same regardless of where it is taken; however some PFs can bow simply due to the weight and position of components hanging off them. Note the wooden rails on the PF provide structural support to help keep the PF straight. Keith has designed the game at 7 degrees and would assume that the PF is straight.

So I think the question should be, if your PF isn't perfectly straight, where is it best place to set the angle? My answer would be that every game is different and you'll need to experiment a little, whether you start off with an average of the top & bottom but regardless just make sure that you are consistent where/how you measure your angle (so that if you ever move your game, you know how to set it up without have to play around again with the angles). Hope this helps.

2 weeks later
#5655 1 year ago
Quoted from gblack:

A couple bugs and hopefully they bring shared progress co-op! One can hope!

TNA has 2 modes - co-op (all players are grouped as one) and team (players 1 & 3 are one team against players 2 & 4 as the 2nd team). Both these would be very cool on JP, especially for the more novice players/kids that struggle to progress through the all the various modes and wizards and it'd be great for parties

#5734 1 year ago
Quoted from ectobar:

Is it using the latest code?

No as Stern introduced encryption in v1.0.1 which blocks Pinball Browser, so the custom audio is built on 1.0 (the last non-encrypted version)

1 week later
#5808 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

I swear I've had it start with the ball rotated on the left, but my memory is poop.
Anyone know if it's supposed to always start with the ball on the right, so the shot is tougher to make?

Smart Missile is only available if the newton ball is on the right, while Super Spinner is only available if the newton ball is on the left - this is to specifically make the shot harder to hit.

1 week later
#5951 1 year ago
Quoted from J-Freeze:

I don't know man, hitting a clean shot that locks the ball and raises the gate is pretty damn satisfying so no need to apologize.
We still have that up-post there.

I love the Prem/LE raptor pen design/concept - lock a ball, that then becomes a newton ball. So cool!!

#6006 1 year ago
Quoted from JonCBrand:

Just joined the club 2 hours ago.
NIB August of 2019 Build.
Trying to get through the 120 pages here,
Anything important from that build run?
3 games in, love it and need to really read up game play.
[quoted image]

If you haven't already, you need to update the f/w as you'll have a very early version of the code

https://sternpinball.com/?post_type=game_code&s=jurassic+park+pro

#6011 1 year ago
Quoted from JellyNeck:

Mine is loose but i dont really notice it effecting gameplay. Is it really something worth putting in a request for?

It's not about gameplay, if the post is loose, then when the ball hits the post it'll start cracking /chipping the clear on the playfield around it.

The new post is longer, has washers top & bottom and a nylon nut to help lock it tight - they produced the fix because of the playfield issues being seen

#6028 1 year ago
Quoted from JonCBrand:

code was first step when plugged in. had 0.86 in it

Yep that'd make a huge improvement!

Oh a few other things:
1. The early JP's seemed to have a bad batch of flipper coil stops, so you may find that a flipper goes all weak. This was typically seen in the first couple of hundred games. The knob of the coil stop detaches from it's bracket. So worth grabbing 3 spares as you'll most likely need them.
2. While the newer code will have dialed down the default power setting for some of the coils, it's worth checking the trough kickout into the shooter lane - people were noticing chipping in the shooter lane opposite to the kickout hole. So you might want to lower the power right down (I think mine is on the lowest setting)

#6034 1 year ago
Quoted from Hulkbuster:

I love what you did here and I’m looking to do the same. Is there a reason you placed the chopper going in the other direction?

That's the direction of the ball going down the wireform

#6040 1 year ago
Quoted from ectobar:

I would give your balls a good inspection. Depending upon how many shots you took, they could be in bad shape

Um ... we are talking about pinball, right??

#6042 1 year ago
Quoted from Daditude:

[quoted image]

Love it - think this would be cool on an instruction card

#6044 1 year ago
Quoted from jandrea95:

I cant be the only one who can NOT walk past the game without walking by hitting the flipper button just to hear Nedry.

Oh I haven't done that on my JP (too busy playing) ... time to find out

#6048 1 year ago
Quoted from TTARider:

anyone have an issue with the auto-plunge not making the reverse ramp? I've tried upping the power, but sometimes it feels like the ball is snagging on something right after the ramp and popping back down.. happens so fast its hard to tell what the cause is..
Thoughts?

Quoted from seenev:

Mine misses about one out of five times. Not sure why it is. I think it's just a flawed design.

This seemed to be a common issue - to resolve
1. Often you need to raise the left fork at the entrance of the reverse ramp by placing 1 or 2 small washers under fork. The reason is that the ball gets sideways movement and loses momentum hitting the side walls of the ramp such that it doesn't make it up onto the wireform. This post from Flipstream shows the washers https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/81#post-5484171
2. The second thing to check is the plunger alignment. If you can successfully manually plunge the ball but it fails with the auto-plunger than it is most likely that the 2 strike arms of the auto-plunger aren't both touching the ball causing the ball to have sideways movement and not enough momentum to get up the ramp. @prodoshi did a great post a few days ago showing this issue and how to adjust the auto-plunger https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/120#post-5758762
3. If you are having an issue with the manual plunger make sure you have an orange spring on the plunger and not a green one (which was shipped with the early machines) and similar to point 2 you can see issues manually plunging if your plunger isn't hitting the centre of the ball.

#6050 1 year ago
Quoted from Spaghetti73:

Ciao a tutti .
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Wow great custom paint job, really works well with the Prem artwork - what are the costs of doing this sort of work in Europe?

#6063 1 year ago
Quoted from metallik:Flippers are droopy on purpose; C O and S shots need them droopy to be reasonable makeable.

Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:

Do you have any reference for this? I think you are wrong.

Here is Keith's (the designer of the game) answer to this "It's your game to align the flippers as you wish but both JP and Maiden uses "flopped" flippers for the side shots on purpose."

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/96#post-5516106

#6067 1 year ago
Quoted from Multiballmaniac1:

Beware. My JP premium June 4th 2020 build has pooling where ball guides connect to playfield and my shooter lane is chipping already after 200 plays [quoted image][quoted image]

Most disappointing.

Looks like the factory is still over tightening the ball guides - this was seen with the machines that came out last year, but haven't seen people mention it so much this year ... then again I guess there has been a decent break when no JP's were on the manufacturing line this year. I've seen where people have loosened the ball guide and slid some small cloth washers between the ball guide edge and playfield to stop it from doing any further damage.

In regards to the shooter lane, have you turned the power down on the ball trough kickout? I think I've got mine on the minimal setting and still easily kicks the ball out. There are also shooter lane protectors available.

#6100 1 year ago
Quoted from seenev:

I just took the glass off and looked at mine under better light and there is chipping in the shooter lane! I couldn't see it before but the clear has chipped away where the ball comes out. What a piece of junk.
What is the expected timeline for wear in the shooter lane? I got my game about a month ago nib, June 4th build. This seems to soon for this. I don't play it that much.[quoted image]

Have you turned the power to the trough kickout down? I've got mine on the lowest setting and it has no issues kicking the ball into the shooter lane. I'd still suggest a cliffy or mylar or a clear plastic shooter lane protector, but the lower power will help as well.

#6103 1 year ago
Quoted from seenev:

I had it at the default but I've turned it lower now. I figured the default setting should be fine but I guess it's not.

Yep I did the same to mine when I heard other help were experiencing this issue. I've got some chipping on mine as well but it is hard to notice, so I just focus on playing

#6108 1 year ago
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:

mine came from factory aligned like your red line. But as i just read, Keith designed the game with a littlebit droopier flippers.
I just can assume he means something like the green line.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/96#post-5516106
the thing is, those small adjustments can have a big impact on gameplay you wouldn't guess... just like swapping out original stern hard post rubbers (= super fast drains), or waxing a new game.

Yep those little variations can make a huge difference in how it plays, which is why no 2 games are the same. I find the real skill is to be able to adjust your timing when playing someone else's machine or one on site that you have at home ... me well, I'm not that skilled so I typically play terribly

#6179 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Does these flippers look aligned correctly?
Also, is there any other fox for the shooter problem other than the washer under the left side of the fork?
I have issue with both manual and auto launch. Actually almost reached Nublar tonight, and sadly lost my game to a bad launch that threw the ball SDTM
[quoted image]

Yep the flippers look to be aligned correctly.

As for the shooter lane issue, firstly check the PF is level from left to right. The fork will affect both plungers (manual and auto) but equally the plungers themselves need to be aligned with the ball in the shooter lane. The auto-plunger has 2 strike arms that should both touch the ball while it is at rest, otherwise it'll cause the ball to have sideways movement and not enough momentum to get up the ramp or clip the edge of the ramp. prodoshi did a great post a week ago showing this issue and how to adjust the auto-plunger https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/120#post-5758762 Equally check that the manual plunger is aligned with the center of the ball to avoid any sideways movement when plunging the ball, it's worth checking that the manual plunger has an orange spring on the plunger and not a green one (which was shipped with the early machines).

If still having issues try taking a slo-mo video of the plungers in action to help figure out what is happening and post a link of the video

#6181 1 year ago
Quoted from RipleYYY:

from the view as it, the right seems a little bit to low...

I think that might be just the camera position, which seems more over the top of the left flipper and creating a slight parallax error ... just hard to tell

#6187 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Here's a couple different angles...[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

The first pic it would seem to be marginally lower than the hole but again I think this is more parallax error, as the 2nd pic shows they are aligned or that close to it. I'd be happy with it and even if it is out by a faction of a mm, your brain/body will learn the timing of your game to make the shots.

#6190 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

I think that's just it... the flipper can look off from looking above, but perfectly aligned when looking from the sides.
So, should it be aligned with the hole while you look from straight above, or from the side?

I don't believe that this degree of accuracy really matters, as there are so many other variances in each machine. Owners will tweek the PF pitch and flipper positions according to their own preferences and their individual machine to fine tune it to their liking. But there is no right or wrong answer as you'll just get used to how your individual machine plays - as long as it's physically possible to hit all the shots, which is why Keith has indicated the game was designed with droopy flippers to be able to make those wide shots.

I, for example simply look down from above in aligning mine. My biggest issue has nothing to do with the machine itself ... but rather my own playing skill

#6213 1 year ago
Quoted from seenev:

I had a screw fly off the left ramp in the middle of a game (second time it's happened). I put it back in but there's no tension. It feels like there's nothing for it to screw into. It's this normal? It's this screw...
[quoted image]

The screw holds the opto bracket (black plastic) and ramp protector (metal bracket) in place. The screws can sometimes strip the hole in the plastic opto bracket - you can buy replacement opto brackets ... a temporary fix can be to partially fill the hole with slither of a match stick (etc) such that the screw can grip it

#6214 1 year ago
Quoted from finnflash:

I'm not sure what this is? Tell me more

Escape Nublar is the main wizard mode, however if you want rather than playing a standard game, you have the ability to simply play the wizard mode as a mini game - this is called the Escape Nublar Challenge

From http://tiltforums.com/t/stern-jurassic-park-rulesheet/5644

Escape Nublar Challenge

By holding in both flipper buttons, you can choose to play the Escape Nublar Challenge. This is basically a game that consists of only playing Escape Nublar. Because there was no game beforehand, you are spotted 12 rescues and a default path to Visitor Center (the far edge of the map depending on what direction the truck is already facing). Also a very minor difference - you start immediately from a plunge, and thus the right flipper. Additionally, there are separate leaderboards for speed runs and high score runs. Tilting counts as an immediate mode loss, and thus, ends your game - however, your supply of tilt warnings is replenished when you lose a truck.

Replays are disabled during this mode, but you can still match at the end. You can also play this mode with multiple players, however, each player will play their entire Escape Nublar attempt in turn (that is, no switching players between trucks). And no, you cannot unlock When Dinosaurs Ruled the Earth.

Speed run tip: If you’re confident in your shot making, sometimes it’s better to simply avoid hitting the truck at all during the Rescue Phase. If you’re going for a speed run, hitting the truck can cause you to veer off-course from the “easy” path unless you remember to switch the truck back as well. If you veer off the path, you may have to survive not just one, but two “hard” paddocks to get back! Also if you’re making your shots easily, fuel shouldn’t be too much of a concern.

For more info on playing the Escape Nublar mode itself, check out the ruleset link above

#6215 1 year ago
Quoted from rickyray:

I am having trouble with starting Escape Nublar at game start. I have tried the holding in both flippers and it does not seem to work on my Pro. Nothing happens. Anyone else have this issue or know of the solution? The only way I can get it to start is going into the game settings and change Standard Adjustment #47 Game Mode On Start to Challenge.

So you're obviously running v1.00 or above for it to say "Game Mode On Start"

Are you holding in both flipper buttons during attract mode (ie before you try to start a game)? This should allow you to switch to Challenge mode (if Adj#47 is set to Standard) before starting your game

#6227 1 year ago
Quoted from rickyray:

I did a full software reload and I am good to go. Not sure why that was needed. Thanks to everyone.

Yep that's weird - had you done something unusual previously, like go back to previous software version or use the custom audio version? Neither of those should have any issues at all but just wondering how the s/w could have got corrupted in this way

#6232 1 year ago
Quoted from Daditude:

[quoted image][quoted image]

Gold!! Love it

#6274 1 year ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

I'm still loving this game!!! *cough maybeco-opandteamupplaycomingsometime? cough*
Whoa, that was the weirdest cough I've ever had

Quoted from sk8ball:

Yeah, weird... I have that same cough

That cough is very contagious, we even have it over here in Australia

#6276 1 year ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

Hope you guy are quarantined with this cough!

Yep we've contained it to JP owners ... hope Stern Labs release a vaccine soon

#6284 1 year ago
Quoted from Hulkbuster:

That looks great! How does the weight compare to the stock vehicle? Does it effect the gameplay at all? I have trouble enough getting the truck to change directions unless struck very precisely.
Thanks

On the point about the truck being hard to change directions, the truck is known to become increasingly harder to switch sides over time. People have had success in addressing this - check out https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/106#post-5683784

#6286 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Here's what's happening 50% of the time with my auto and manual launch:

Everything looks centered to me in the photos.
Anyone else have this and get it fixed?
[quoted image][quoted image]

I've not seen a trough kickout protector do that before. Did you install the protector as new or is this a 2nd game? Was it sitting perfectly flat with no overhang?

Also I'd suggest removing it as the way it is it may damage your PF and balls

#6293 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Never saw a kick out do what?
And what are you suggesting may damage balls and pf?
I'm the only owner, so Cliffy was installed by yours truly.
And just realized the slow motion setting on the video wasn't saved as I edited, so the failed shot is at full speed

The first time I looked at the below pic the protector looked to me to be quite raised / buckled as if the ball had been clipping it which is why I was concerned. Looking at it again I think it might have been the reflections of the cliffy were playing a trick on my eyes ... or maybe my eyes are just shot (damn getting old).

Just check that the cliffy area circled is still nice and flat on the PF. Apologises

JP cliffy (resized).jpg
#6319 1 year ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

Just looked at a copy of Stern Service Bulletin #108 which talks about flipper rebuilding. It says beginning with Lethal Weapon 3 machine, they add alignment Spots at the exact center of where they intend flippers to rest. I hadn’t seen the Alignment spot on the upper flipper At all until I was tightening up the post which had become loose. And there it is. The alignment spot for the upper flipper is intended to allow the flipper to be much more even with the post itself. I noticed a number of people have their flipper lower. Some folks have it even.
Can I assume that the tip of the Upper flipper really should be set at the alignment spot?

No, Keith has posted on here that the front of the upper flipper should line up with the hole. This leaves the post "exposed" which is designed such that if you don't flip as the ball comes past the flipper it'll clip the post stopping it from a centre drain and sending it off to either the left sling or flipper.

#6360 1 year ago
Quoted from MUGEN_4_LIFE:

When did you buy this?I've Been looking forever, I was going to mod my shooter plate this weekend.... may not if I can find an original available sometime soon??

Someone already ask - see his below post

Quoted from zeldarioid:

I ordered it at the same time as my JP Premium through my distributor back in May. JP Prem arrived July 7th, shooter just arrived today.

#6367 1 year ago
Quoted from seenev:

The screw flew out again, but the crazy thing is that I can't find it now. I replaced it with a similar screw that I had that fits better. I'm wondering now if Stern used the wrong size screw at the factory.
Should I be worried about a screw being somewhere in the machine? I don't want to tear it apart looking for it, but I spent a good 20 minutes trying to find it before giving up. My guess is it's under a plastic somewhere. I just hope it doesn't fall on something and cause a short.

It's not great to lose a screw but it does happen, sometimes when lifting the PF they'll end up rattling out and falling into the bottom of the cabinet (so worth checking there), other times you'll be playing and see a screw rolling down the PF (stop playing immediately and retrieve the screw, else you risk damaging the PF). Just keep an eye out for it and also listen out when you are raising/lowering the PF.

#6418 1 year ago
Quoted from cscmtp:

gonna bump this had no responses...am I the only one that has a T-Rex that has seizures on a regular basis?

Just check that bundle of wires behind the PF backboard aren't fouling the mech - this has been seen previously but not sure if that is your issue

#6426 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Good eye... Looks like earlier runs might have been green, and now they've gone brown.[quoted image]

Juveniles vs Adults?? So if they ever do a vault edition, it'll just be the skeleton swaying around Actually Stern could re-use the mech if they ever released a "Night at the Museum" pin

#6436 1 year ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

If it's like the post at the 3rd flipper, the post runs through a larger drilled hole and thus can be moved quite a bit just by loosening it, and then tightening it back down in a different place. Not sure why they didn't put a metal threaded placement plate under the playfield for post consistant positioning like this. But it works.

I didn't think T-Nuts were used to ensure a consistent position but rather for firmly securing a post without the need to use tools top & bottom, however it could reduce the variance in position assuming the T-Nuts were able to be hammered in consistently.

#6438 1 year ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

On my Funhouse, they used a metal plate with three threaded holes under the outramp post to allow it to be moved to 3 specific locations. They could do something similiar to this but with one hole (or use a T-nut), or simply drill the playfield wood hole smaller to match the size of the post itself (seems like the obvious choice to me but....)
8_

Arh yep know those plates - not sure how well they'd go on a post such as the upper flipper on JP that can be subjected to direct full blooded shots from the lower left flipper and the variation in fixing the plate to the underneath of the playfield may not actually improve consistency of the post location. Interesting thought none the less - it'd be interesting the see all the different concepts and ideas that have been tried by the pinball engineers over the years

#6471 1 year ago
Quoted from Scribbles:

So, how does the mode work? I must admit, I'm not much of a deep rules type of guy and play more for the sheer fun of it, and JP has sooo much going on at once. I have no idea how P.A. works.

Pteranodon Attack (from the JP Rulesheet http://tiltforums.com/t/stern-jurassic-park-rulesheet/5644)

Shoot the right ramp 4 times to start. Pteranodon Attack is a timed frenzy mode where all switches add 25K (+10K each subsequent Pteranodon mode) to an award collected at the right ramp, and can be rebuilt/re-collected while there’s time left in the mode. Each threshold of 12 switches adds a multiplier to your next award, and resets only when you collect a Pteranodon award at the R ramp. When the mode times out (or if you drain), the multiplier carries over to the next Pteranodon Attack, but not the award value – meaning it might be a good idea to focus on building up the multiplier for the first Pteranodon Attack instead of trying to collect the award. Note: the Amber Frenzy timer will not pause in the pops nor during game stoppages such as mode introductions.

Completing Fossil Set 1 will add +10x to the next Pteranodon Attack value instantly! And collecting a Pteranodon award of 50M+ will award a wildcard Fossil.

BTW Ripping the spinner is the best way to quickly rack up the switch hits

#6476 1 year ago
Quoted from cscmtp:

Just played a game and noticed all my scores are gone and I have NOT done a software is concerning what would cause all the scores to be gone??

The game will automatically reset high scores (except GC) after a defined number of games - this can be changed in the settings.

If the GC has disappeared as well, then the batteries that retain your scores and settings have died

#6490 1 year ago
Quoted from finnflash:

Just got Invalid Frenzy champ, and I had never even heard of it before tonight.

Yep it's great fun especially with multi-ball, the kids love it

#6491 1 year ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

It's not ball to ball carryover, it's PA mode to PA mode carryover. PA mode does have a timer which is on screen while it's running. But you can start PA mode again on the same ball with 4 more ramp shots, so you can play PA multiple times on one ball.

I thought it carried over between balls as well. I'm not able to test it atm, though the rules say "When the mode times out (or if you drain), the multiplier carries over to the next Pteranodon Attack", so if it carries over if you drain doesn't that imply when you start PA on the next ball?? Now you have me scratching my head, trying to remember ....

#6514 1 year ago
Quoted from Snailman:

You've hit the nail on the head. The way that Elwin has designed the tight shots in this game, and the rules for finishing modes, if you're not playing controlled pinball, then it will be incredibly difficult to have games where you succeed at completing multiple modes and all three mini-wizards in the same game.
You need the full arsenal of flipper control moves in Jurassic Park -- except for loop passes.
I think that the toughest mode/multiball to complete (and earn the Fossil) in JP is Chaos MB. Thank goodness for wildcard fossils!

85vett Snailman ectobar thank you for sharing you insight, it not only helps us understand the game and scoring better but it also motivates us to improve our skills and get more out of the game. It's really appreciated guys!! Thank you

#6529 1 year ago
Quoted from Powerhouse47:

Just got my Pro! Any thoughts on where I should level the bubble? I have 2 boys 8-12 years old. Want to keep it not too fast.

The game was designed for 7 degrees, and people seem to find the sweet spot around 6.8-7.0 degrees. Load the inclinometer on your phone - it'll help ensure the game is level left to right, as well as get the slope more accurate.

If you reduce the pitch of the PF, it'll make the lower edge targets (control room and "S") much harder to hit. It'll also introduce more lateral ball movement, so while it may slow the ball slightly I'm not sure that it'll make it easier for your boys

#6540 1 year ago
Quoted from mcvetyty:

Where are you getting that from? Manual says 6.5 degrees.

Yes I believe Keith (the JP designer) mentioned it in an interview that the game had been designed to be played at 7 degrees and this is where people have found all the shots are achievable - that said every game is different and so some people find it better dialed in for example at 6.8 for their specific machine. At the end of the day you need to find that sweet spot for your machine. If your boys are anything like my son, they'll quickly master the timing and shots, so I wouldn't be trying to lower the pitch to try to slow the ball, as you may simply make it much harder to play and your boys may not find it as much fun. If you can easily make all the shots, then it'll be easy for you boys to learn the fun that is pinball.

Hope this helps

#6587 1 year ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

There are flipper optos on my STTNG and blades on my other two games. I'm not sure, but I've heard people mention the mechanical blades are a bit more consistent and reliable. I know on my optos they occasionally start to lose power flipping if they need to be cleaned, so I'd think that could impact a game on route. Also I think the blades can be adjusted to preference a bit more.

Yep I seen games where operators have replaced the original flipper optos with mechanical blade switches, I can only assume that they found the blades more reliable and possibly that was what they had on hand at the time

#6588 1 year ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

Is there a way to show a scoreboard for say the top 20 scores? Or is this limited to 4 + grand champion?

I don't believe so, these are hard coded.

#6628 1 year ago
Quoted from MUGEN_4_LIFE:

Anyone with a LE want to do me a favor and scan a copy of there apron plastic for me? I've converted my premium and I want that extra LE plastic to make it look complete (other than the metal badge of course) don't want to go that far but it would be nicw to have a plastic with the designers name on it that says limited edition. My machine has all the extras and then some from the LE but I'd love to make a scan of the plastic into my own LE Apron plastic. I understand many won't want to do this but maybe there is someone who's willing to see my point of view? Thanks to everyone in advanced.

Sounds like a lot of work (cabinet decals, blades, trim, backglass, speakers ...) - wouldn't it have just been easier to buy an LE, or are they hard to come by in the US?

#6634 1 year ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

You could easily scan the one you have and photoshop the hand symbol out and insert whatever text you want. Limited Edition, Special Edition, Cretaceous Edition, etc.. Be creative!
Instead of "game designer" have "game modder" or something similar and put your own autograph there!

That's actually a cool idea - nice one!

#6640 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

video clips custom code up and running!!!

Yea baby - this is what we should have had in the first place. Fantastic work!!

#6651 1 year ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

The LED bulb itself may be bad. Yes, I know it’s an LED, but it plugs into a standard bayonet bulb socket so it fair to call it a bulb. In any case, it could be bad.

All good, knew what you were meaning, was just having a laugh.

#6677 1 year ago
Quoted from JayLar:

My balls have suddenly started to get stuck in the helicopter blades.

That sounds painful

There's a couple of things that can go wrong - the helicopter blades can touch the wireform, so just check that the blades spin freely without touching anything, the other issue people have found is under the PF where the shaft can rub on the plate - check out https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/69#post-5339641

Let us know how you get on

#6705 1 year ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

Screw near GI plastic came lose and will not screw back in... looks like the underside of the screw hole is under the entire flipper assembly.... any tips to fix??[quoted image]

I would assume that it screws into a T-Nut on the bottom of the PF - can you see T-Nuts for the other return lane screws? If it is a T-Nut then it's unlikely that it would have come off the bottom of the PF but also I wouldn't have thought it would have stripped the thread either. I think you're going to have to remove the flipper bat and then drop the flipper assembly to see what has happened

#6723 1 year ago

yoyokopter has just posted on his "Trex Alive Mod" for JP Pro - look friggin awsome!!!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/yoyokopter-mod-development-and-reviews-thread#post-5835461

#6733 1 year ago
Quoted from freddy:

What activates the movement?
What power source signals it to move?

yoyokopter is best to comment on how it works or send him a PM

#6739 1 year ago
Quoted from RipleYYY:

internet friend of mine... surelly not lot of free time... will point him to came by and explain more...

Yep thanks that'd be great - look forward to seeing how it's trigger and what's involved to install. It looks very cool

#6751 1 year ago
Quoted from Killermarmot:

Haven't seen it addressed but I think one of the targets (the one on the right furthest in) inside my raptor pen might be slightly misaligned and blocking some shots into the pen, can anyone confirm if this is in the right place overlapping the rail inside the pen?
[quoted image]

Stern have historically had an issue with standup targets where by the starting leaning to one side. Sometimes they can be re-aligned to be straight and stay that way but most of the time it is due to the bolt that holds the switch leaves together not being able to stay tight with the constant punishment of the ball hitting the target. If this is continually happening on a target, you could look at fixing it with this https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=BK3

#6812 1 year ago

Just had a fun game, I had Chaos MB and Invalid Frenzy (smart missile) at the same time, don't know how many add-a-ball's I got but it was a lot - MB seemed to go forever. I find JP brutal if you brick a shot but when you're in the curve, man this game is sweet!!!

1 week later
#6973 1 year ago
Quoted from jlock:

Anyone else have issue of C shot returning SDTM too often? Mine just started doing so and I'm wondering whether there are any fixes short of bending the end of the rail inward.

Have you checked the pitch of you PF, maybe this has changed from when you originally setup your machine

#7085 1 year ago
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:

Thanks for all the input! I will report after further testing

Another thing to try is testing each of the balls separately to see if the failures are associated with specific balls - while I was sceptical I've seen where a JP was having these exact issues and a pinball tech tested each ball separately and found that 2 of the balls failed to regularly make the ramp yet the others were able to. He replaced those 2 balls and the autoplunger issue has gone away. The tech indicated that there is a magnet in T-Rex's mouth and maybe these balls had become slightly magnetised.

I know this sounds weird and the JP owner & I weren't 100% sure this was the issue ... however it did address the problem, so worth a try if you're struggling to find the cause

#7096 1 year ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

I made another one today, making sure to take pictures along the way. You can see the parts: The two LEDs, the two 220ohm resistors, and the .100" connector, plus THREE 36-inch pieces of stranded 24GA wire. I reused the shooter plate and the backer plate.
TIP: Before taking the factory shooter plate out, use some blue tape on the FRONT of the machine on all four edges (see in picture #19) which makes it much easier to put the modified shooter back in the exact same spot.
The most delicate part is drilling the powder-coated shooter plate, because you want that to look perfect. You can see how I drilled the shooter plate from the front and using blue painters tape after I measured the right place. (Approx 3/4" in from each edge, and about 1-1/4" down from the top. I use Blue tape to keep everything clean of residue. I then glued in the LEDs from the back using superglue-brand adhesive (not thin superglue, but their thicker adhesive you can get at Dollar Tree). I let dry for a couple of hours. Notice I used yellow water-clear light-pipe style LEDs to have a tiny hole visible from the front, but any type of LED can be used.
In picture #13 you can se that I also drilled a small hole on the back support structure to allow a tie-wrap to fasten the wire to the metal plate itself. I also had to cut a small slot in the steel backer plate to allow the wire to pass through. This is the same approach Stern uses for their version. Finally, I tie-wrapped the 3-wire bund every 6 inches and then routed the three wire bundle around the coin door, and plugged connector into CN15.
Note: The wires must exit the plate on the left side, so after I took the pictures, I remembered that they need to exit left instead of down, as shown in the pictures. Easy to move the cabling to exit left.
Viola' !!! Yes, it behaves just like Stern's version. The LEDs have a left/right fading effect, rather than just always ON. If they ever do more in software for their own lighted shooter, this one will respond the exact same way.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nicely documented - well done and thanks for sharing

#7132 1 year ago
Quoted from cait001:

Good point, sometimes I'm just not expecting the uppost

The direction the truck is facing determines whether the orbit up-post will divert the ball to the pops. If the truck is facing left, the ball will do the full orbit (assuming the shot has enough power); while if facing right, the post will come up and divert the ball into the pops

#7153 1 year ago
Quoted from ReluctantPin:

Hi everyone, I've got new JP Pro on the way, so I thought I'd introduce myself.
Not exactly new to pinball, but never thought I'd own a pin myself. Guess life finds a way...
I'm pretty excited.

Welcome to Pinside and the Stern JP club

#7154 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

After doing more searching it appears those are raptor tracks, just not velociraptor. I want to make my own using velociraptor tracks - just need the width at bottom so I can scale the shape accordingly. If nobody can provide the measurement, then I'll just have to wait.

The width of the ramp at the top of the ramp flap is 56mm - sorry no inches on the tape measure but converting it is 2.205 inches

Let me know if you need any other measurements

IMG_1557 (resized).jpgIMG_1558 (resized).jpg
1 week later
#7349 1 year ago
Quoted from Galvez1978:

And you know when i pass the ball for the left ramp, do not make a skill shot?

Is the left ramp insert light flashing red when you are making the shot?

Also what version of s/w are you running? And while I'm not sure that it makes a difference but are you doing a full plunge or auto-plunge with the ball going up the U ramp and into the return lane to shoot the left ramp; or are you doing a half plunge and catching the ball with your flipper to make the left ramp shot?

#7353 1 year ago
Quoted from Galvez1978:

Yes, the light it's flashing red and white, i shoot a full plunge, the ball do the U ramp and later a direct shoot with the flipper to the ramp. But active the paddock.
The machine it's new, comes with 1.02 installed.
Thanks!!

That is weird - it should only reward the skill shot and not activate the paddock on that shot. The fact that it starts the paddock shows that the game did sense the ball on the left ramp. I'm not sure whether there is a setting for turning off the skill shots - do any of the other skill shots work? I would be tempted to do a factory reset ...

Edit: In case you're not familiar with the other secret skill shots, they are:
- short plunge and hit the "C"
- short plunge and hit the "O"
- short plunge and hit the Amber target in the pops

#7391 1 year ago
Quoted from newpinbin:

I have noticed the only way to make the playfield level is by completely extending the front two posts at their highest points. The machine is now level but it just does not look right compared to my other machines, as the front two legs are raised all the way up. Does anyone know if this is normal for this playfield?

It doesn't sound right - I have my back legs as high as they can go (so the machine sits as high as possible) and the front legs are approx only half way with a 7 degree pitch. Even if you had a lesser pitch of 6.5 I doubt that you'd get anywhere near the max on the front legs

#7392 1 year ago
Quoted from cait001:

put a washer under the left-fork screw on the shooter lane. It then did 5 proper auto-launches in a row, and then shortly after that it was 50/50 again for making it up the shooter ramp. sigh

Check each ball individually and see if specific balls are failing all the time - I've heard of this being an issue and worth checking

#7395 1 year ago
Quoted from cait001:

OMG that sounds like madness. What could be the difference given the tolerances of pinballs?

Yep I agree it sounds like a bunch of BS

The pinball tech said that some of the balls could have become magnetised, now both the owner and myself were sceptical that this could be the possible cause of balls failing to make the U-ramp however the tech found that a couple of the balls regularly failed whereas the other balls would make the ramp. The failed balls were swapped out and as far as I'm aware it has resolved the issue. Note the owner had previously gone through all the usual causes and advice on the thread, so I'm still scratching my head on this one ... but hey if it works then I guess it's worth considering ...

#7406 1 year ago
Quoted from verbekecobra:

I've ordered a premium that should be here later this month. Looking at everyone's mods has got me super excited for the game even more than I was before. I've noticed that some have replaced the newton ball truck with a more movie correct Jeep. Can you point me to which toy you used to make that change? I think that is something I want to do to mine when I get it. Thanks!

It's the JADA 1:43 Jurassic Jeep

#7410 1 year ago
Quoted from RGAires:

Maybe i dont make myself clear, i mean the flippers fell weak, the right one. The game is superflow if you make the shots right.

Have you double checked that the coil stop on the flipper assembly is still solid - this has been an issue especially with JP. The coil stop nub has a tendency to become loose and eventually detach itself from the bracket of the coil stop that it is fixed to - this quite often results in a weak flipper

#7412 1 year ago
Quoted from RGAires:

I will tripple check that for sure, thanks.
If i dont find the solution im going to order the coils and give you feedback of it.

And the lower flippers are positioned with the centre of the bat aligned to the dot in the PF? I do find my timing sometimes off especially in hitting the left ramp and not sure if that is because JP is designed to have the flippers in a drooped position, whereas I'm so used to my B/W machines where that bat is directly lined up with the return lane guide.

Also is there any difference in the amount of play (movement) of the right bat and flipper linkage compared to the left one?

#7420 1 year ago
Quoted from NightTrain:

I do not have my lower flippers positioned this way. I line them up even with the ball return guide. It plays so much better. I can’t stand droopy flippers.

Your machine, so you can set them up however you like. Keith mentioned on this thread that he intentionally drooped the flippers for wide shots, I guess it makes it's easier for those less experienced players however this does make it a little different for hitting the longer shots.

#7442 1 year ago
Quoted from rockrand:

I recieved my treX alive mod from yo-yo copter ,took about an hour or so to install,came from France in about a week,adds some life to the pro,moves as switches are hit and during T. rex events ,not a premium but a promium and it’s the best that
We pro owners can do,The head sticks out farther like a premium and looking at it you would think it’s a premium
[quoted image]

Looks to be a very cool mod. Which switches are being are being used and how does it activate during T-Rex events?

#7445 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinstein:

A couple of new alternate translite versions available. Some good content to the game.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Very cool!!

1 week later
#7571 1 year ago

Have become addicted to Escape Nublar Challenge ...

All time #1 game

Jurassic Park - Challenge (resized).jpg
#7636 1 year ago
Quoted from Motorcitypinball:

I have been practicing for the escape Nublar challenge tournament. I have Played Escape Nublar exclusively for the last 4 days about 2 Hours per day.
I decided to give it a break today and shoot around a little and play a game.
It was my best Game ever.
10 fossils
3.6 Billion Score
30 rescues
495,000,000 Visitor center bonus
Practicing Nublar is making me better at all the shots
BTW my best Escape from Nublar time is 3:36[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Awesome score - I agree that playing Escape Nublar really improves your skills to make specific shots ... just wish it translated to scoring big like you've done (my best on a 3 ball game is 802k )

#7637 1 year ago
Quoted from palmab03:

Are you generally not supposed to be able to hit the tower shot unless you have some speed coming around? I'm a bit annoyed that I can't hit the tower shot with the ball coming slowly out of the pops, but I don't know if it's a feature or a bug. I can occasionally get it up there but it's like a 5-10% shot. Most often even a clean nice shot just doesn't have the momentum to make it up there, and my flipper settings for that flipper are on default (Max).

Every game is different, however you should be able to hit the tower ramp with either a slow or fast feed to the upper flipper. It might be just a slight adjustment on the pitch of the PF that will significantly improve being able to hit this ramp - what pitch is you machine setup at? and is it level side-to-side?

#7680 1 year ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

Guys, is it cheating to remove the screw so the tower shot is consistent? I’m being told doing stuff like that is cheating. I thought that was pinball tweaking 101. 15+ years in this hobby and I’m second guessing myself.

Are you talking about the screw holding the ramp flap down onto the PF? If the ball is clipping the head of the scew, then this is not how the game was designed, so filing the head or replacing/removing the screw is simply fixing your game - definitely not cheating

#7684 1 year ago
Quoted from mcvetyty:

Obviously you're playing amazingly even despite this, but I don't believe that's where the top flipper should be at all... That's gotta be jacking up your game a bit.

That upper flipper is petty close to being aligned correctly - the front of the flipper rubber should line up with the PF dot. If anything the flipper may be slightly back too far, which I think would make it harder to hit the upper loop shot and it also narrows the S shot.

#7691 1 year ago
Quoted from Scribbles:

Keith himself stated that the lower flippers align normally, centered on the dot. However, the upper flipper front face aligns with the dot. That causes the ball to kiss the post if not flipped, sending it to the left flipper. EDIT, not sure if the front face means the plastic or the rubber, but the ball should definitely hit the post if not flipped.

Yep I'd hadn't taken too much notice as to whether it was the front of the bat or the rubber, rather had simply left mine where it was. Seems mine is aligned with the front of the rubber but checking Keith's post https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/96#post-5516155 he does state the bat ... now we could argue whether he was talking about the bat as a whole or explicitly the plastic bat itself LOL While I can consistently hit both the upper loop and the tower shot, I need to do some other dialling in, so might try changing the upper flipper at the same time and see if it's any better.

#7703 1 year ago
Quoted from RGAires:

Just for future reference and maybe to help others, it was a problem on the opto board(cold solder) just revised the contacts and is working as it should.
Thanks

Nice to see you got this issue sorted and good to know - now you can get on with enjoying JP

#7797 1 year ago
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

Apologies for being one of those people, but can anyone offer a link, pics or details of how people are installing their Pteranodon mods over the upper right wireform? Searching on my phone is killing me. I recall some using a screw lug type thing with wire stuck up the Pteranodons bum

I think the first link is the one you might be thinking of ... anyway I've thrown some others into the mix

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/69#post-5340920
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/70#post-5343112
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/73#post-5418669
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/63#post-5338247
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/79#post-5461534

#7799 1 year ago
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

That's the one!!! How did you find it? My searching technique is seemingly quite rusty

Haha well I thought the quickest way would be spotting it in the thread gallery photos - now there's 22 odd pages of photos but I thought it'd be somewhere half to two thirds of the way thru so started in the middle. That said I looked in this thread first only not to find it (hence the other reference links) but quickly found it in the Prem/LE thread.

Think I would have given up too if using my phone

#7814 1 year ago
Quoted from palmab03:

What is the timer on combos? I've noticed that I'm getting quite a few combos where it seems like I'm able to get them a good 10 to 15 seconds after hitting the previous shot.

It's not listed in the rulesheet however if you capture T-Rex you get 8 seconds added to the timers, so this may also apply to the combo timer as well???

#7819 1 year ago
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

Great stuff!! I'm still yet to get close to finishing it.

Easier if the truck is facing the left when you start (cleaner spinner shot)

Avoid hitting the truck and if you do switch it back to facing the original way before exiting that paddock (otherwise you end up doing more paddocks and having to hit the set trap targets)

Also if doing the competition challenge then the rescues are always in the same positions

It's a game within a game - I love it!!!

#7832 1 year ago
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:

I am on V1.03.0 and did a factory reset. DNA combo extraball is set to 8 and it also says thats factory setting.
And why is Tilt Debounce set back from 1000ms to 750 now?
So could anyone check the DNA extraball setting for me? [Feature Adjustment #7]

When you go into the DNA combo extraball setting - what is the factory default (6 or 8)? It should show 6 as default - as per the screen shot from ectobar

#7833 1 year ago
Quoted from ectobar:

I don't believe there is one. Similar to IMDN, as long as you don't hit an errant switch, you're good.
There is a light indicator as well. From the code readme:
"- Combos - Added combo indicator (red flasher above 2x target) that pulses while combo is active"

Arhh I wondered what the red flasher was indicating - good to know

#7859 1 year ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

OK, I've tried googling "jurassic park ball trap helicopter" but don't see any posts. I keep getting ball traps in the helicopter blades. Do I need to add different washer weights on the blades or ? It seems like it could always be a possibility to get a ball trap here if the blades catch the ball at just the right time?
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Shouldn't need to change the weights on the blades

There are a few things to check. Early on there were a few reports where the blades slightly catch the wireform - Stern advise not to attempt moving the helicopter but rather try moving (or bending) the wireform away from the blades. The other thing to check is if the blade spins freely by itself, there have been a few cases where the sensor/bracket below the PF has be rubbing on the shaft - this extra friction can be just enough to stop a slow ball (that just manages to make it up the ramp) to turn the blades. This post will help https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/69#post-5339641 Also what pitch do you have the PF at? Keith has mentioned that the game was designed at 7 degrees, so if you are using a lesser pitch then this would reduce the momentum a slow ball has to turn the blades

#7870 1 year ago
Quoted from gaubster:

New question. Does this look correct? The supply drop target looks to be leaning towards the left (in front of the inner loop fed by the third flipper). I've had a lot of rejected balls that don't make that inner loop. The chrome is now rubbing off (wasn't like that last night). Anybody else have this issue? Does this target look askew? I'm not sure how to fix this one as it's solidly affixed. I appreciate any advice as this is my first machine. Thanks!
[quoted image]

While Stern have implemented an anti-lean bracket (which is used in JP), there is still the chance you can experience the standup targets somewhat leaning - they can be simply straightened up without lifting the PF however if they continue to move then you may need to re-tighten the actual targets under the PF.

#7872 1 year ago
Quoted from Galvez1978:

One rookie question, why have negative numbers some parts of the pinball? The supply drop target have -20, but all the playfield have de same kind of numbers.

I don't see any target switches having a -20. Are you talking about 9-SW-20? This is the address Node board 9 Switch 20

#7890 1 year ago
Quoted from palmab03:

What's the timing on DNA Combos? I've noticed I've had quite a few combos register where it seems like I had close to 10 seconds between the shots required.

Didn't you ask the same question 5 days ago on this thread? ectobar replied - here is his post https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/157#post-5947890

#7900 1 year ago
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:

I tried two more updates and factory resets but it still says EB on 8 DNA combos as (installed/factory).
Anyone knows what could cause this problem?

Have you checked whether the other 1.03 settings are there? Might be worth reaching out to Stern to see if they can advise

#7919 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I'm excited for all sorts of reasons. Silly, but one of the big ones is that this is my first game that actually has a manual plunger and a spinner in it.

Funny how the small things can be what we get excited about!

The sound of ripping the spinner when you've activated super spinner is so cool - you'll love it.

Enjoy!!!!

#7921 1 year ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

Don’t know why there has to be 2 owners threads, I guess this club should be for the cool kids that want to have fun. And the prem/LE one for prem/LE issues?

Yep that's a good way to look at it. Sometimes things get posted on both but I guess we've all learnt to follow both threads

#7932 1 year ago
Quoted from Scribbles:

Good idea, but readily available in lots of nice colors Definitely a must have on powder coated legs. I cringe every time I see powdered legs with bolts making direct contact.
[quoted image]

Ooohhh nice colours ... should have bought some in my recent order

#7934 1 year ago
Quoted from Hokie822:

Sorry.. should of specified. I have a premium. The ball goes into the pen and the post pops up holding the ball. The raptor gate will drop at end of game but the post doesn't and the ball just sits there. I get the error and then I have to reboot it.

When capture is lit and you hit the back raptor target the post will pop up and hold the ball while the gate comes up. Once the gate is up the post should drop, allowing the ball to roll down to the risen gate (ie trapped in the pen). A new ball will then be launched into play and you'll be able to hit the gate, which drops the integrity of the fence, when you reach 0% integrity you'll trigger Raptor Tri-ball (which lowers the gate and lets the ball out of the raptor pen, as well as launching a 3rd ball onto the PF).

So by your description the post is not coming down once the gate has come up - can you go into test mode (Diag -> Coil -> #16 Lock Raptor Pit) and see if the raptor post will raise/drop when you activate it (note you need to first pull the coin door switch button out to activate the 48V for the coils to work with the coin door open)?

#7936 1 year ago
Quoted from Hokie822:

Thanks. Looks like I need to move it a little. Lot of resistance when I try to manipulate it. Sorry for the novice questions. Been reading up since I ordered it, but now its in my hands its a bit unknown. I am a complete newbie here. Thanks guys!

Getting your hands dirty and learning is all just part of the fun!! And if you're not sure, then just ask

#7967 1 year ago
Quoted from mbrave77:

Im finally joining the club with a premium coming this weekend. Of course I cant find the shooter rod anywhere but what are the essential mods? Ill get a shaker, invisiglass and art blades. But what else?

I think you are opening a can of worms here as everyone's tastes are different and it depends what you are prepared to spend on your game. Certainly the shaker adds an extra element to the game while things like the shooter rod (now available at https://www.classicgamerooms.com/pinball-parts/jurassic-park-shooter-knob-detail.html), PDI/invisiglass and art blades are solely for looks. There are countless PF mods from replace trucks & helicopters, extra dinos, raptor pen and tower mods, trees ... While I can appreciate a lot of the guys pimped out machines, I tend to have minimal PF toys as I don't want it too busy/cluttered.

So my list would be:
Shaker
PDI glass
Blades
Maybe the shooter rod (the insects tend to be a bit hit or miss)
Helicopter
Pterodactyl
Raptor pen (Mezel mods)

Oh you may need extra lighting depending if you play in the dark

#7970 1 year ago

I was doing some re-dialing in on a few components and after double checking the tower ramp flap screw was still good, I happened to check out the left ramp as like others have commented sometimes the ball will rattle in the ramp and come back down. What I found was that the ramp flap rivet heads, particularly the right one, are positioned where by the ball will clip it. The ramp has a wider entrance allowing the ball to be shot from both the right and left flipper - the entrance posts don't shield the rivets heads and as this ramp is plastic (the ramp floor curves up the sides rather than being a square corner) the ramp flap is narrower and consequently the rivets are moved in. The left rivet only marginally touches and I don't think mine would impact a shot, however any ball that is shot on the right side the ramp entrance (which in general is typically less often due to shot geometry) is definitely going to be deflected by the rivet head. And this could also affect T-Rex catching the ball ...

I've not seen this mentioned previously by anyone, so interested if others can check their machines and post a few pics for comparison.

Any thoughts on how to fix this would also be welcome

Left Ramp1 (resized).jpgLeft Ramp2 (resized).jpgLeft Ramp3 (resized).jpg
#7992 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I already had the ball get stuck on the upper gate, so I'll need to make that adjustment.

Yep common problem. You don't need to remove the one way gate, just raise the left hand side marginally up (the circled end of the bracket should be just above the top of the ball guide). There is no need to loosen where the bracket attaches on the right side, as there is enough flex in the bracket to lift it the 1-2mms you need.

JP2 Spinner Gate (resized).jpg
#7993 1 year ago
Quoted from BC_Gambit:

Good find; I was going to investigate my ramp rejects and see what was up. I will check my game (likely later today) and see if I can confirm what you found.
My "possible temp" fix will be to build up the area with some vinyl I have to see if I can make the rivets less pronounced; I may have to shim the plastic guard up top as well; TBD. If that ends up working lot term fixes may be something like a cliffy style carbon fiber adhesive ramp flap, but I am hoping some other options present themselves.

Quoted from BC_Gambit:

As a further follow up; on my game for the left RAMP, the left most rivet is fine, but you are correct that the right rivet is well inside the ball's travel path.
I built up the area with my cling vinyl, and will do some more testing. I did some testing initially, but it is hard to separate just getting better at the shot when you are repeatedly testing the same shot from the flipper over and over again. Off to play a game or two!

Hey thanks for checking this out and confirming it's not just my machine - your 2 fix options were along the same line as my thoughts. A less pronounced rivet head could reduce the deflection but may not totally solve the issue, and laying down mylar/vinyl to build up the area would require a few layers to get it above the head. In thinking about it more, maybe a combination of the two would work well ... while I prefer to keep the ramp flap I like your idea of a cliffy style carbon fiber adhesive ramp flap.

I know what you mean about testing, once I knew about the rivet head I continually centered every ramp shot after that ... maybe this is how I should practice all my shots from now on

#7999 1 year ago
Quoted from Boblabla:

Chk youtube vids how to fix. You need to put a washer under the metal ball guide on one side to level it. Also, turn the power down. You will destroy your shooter lane with full power. Lastly, order some mylar and cover your shooter lane. Have fun!

Putting mylar on to avoid damage to the shooter lane and turning the coil power down is associated with the trough eject (that throws the ball into the shooter lane), not plunging the ball to make the U ramp - this is a different coil.

#8001 1 year ago
Quoted from Brady2Gronk:

Seems like reseating the wire harnesses may have done the trick.

Great to know this was the issue and call out to EaglePin for enlightening all of us

#8007 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I know it's been addressed a few times already, but I wanted to bring it up again. The pins are still coming with the green plunger spring. I've only got a few games under my belt, but I'd say that I make the loop about 75% of the time. Shouldn't this be an every time if the shooter rod is pulled all the way back before release?
Anyway, I wanted to see what the overall change/success rate is for those of you who have changed to an orange plunger spring?

100% on my game with the orange spring.

If you get 100% with your auto-plunger but only 75% on the manual plunger - check that the manual plunger is striking the ball in the centre, if so then I'd suggest replacing your spring with an orange one. If you are getting less success on both the auto and manual plunger then it may be because the shooter lane fork needs adjusting.

#8073 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Amber is a thing of beauty, I tell ya.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Looks like Stern (or rather their supplier) has sorted out getting insects to appear "life like" and not the "sticks" that we saw in the previous batch. Looks awesome!!

#8083 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I just finished my Jeep conversion, and thought I would share. I know there are others who have shown how to do it, but I thought I would walk everyone through my process which was quite simple and yielded perfect results.
With that stated, here we go...
First of all, you need the Jada 1/43 scale Jeep. You can typically find these on Ebay, but may have to come from China depending upon current auctions. The Jeep has pretty much an identical footprint of the OEM one.
[quoted image][quoted image]
To remove the Jeep, lift the playfield and you'll use an allen wrench (not sure what size) to loosen the locks screw on the shaft (pay attention to the orientation of the metal tab as this is what triggers the optos). When removing this be sure to hold onto the Jeep on the topside or it may slide out and damage something. Also, there are 3 washers on the topside including a ball bearing washer. If you lose or break this, your jeep will not rotate properly.
[quoted image]
Carefully pull out the jeep assembly from the topside, again paying careful attention to catch the 3 washers. When removed set the washers aside, remove the 4 screws holding the jeep to the shaft plate, and also remove the nut & washer holding the newton ball on the shaft to get it out of the way.
[quoted image]
Now you will want to test position the jeep on the plate so that you know where it needs to sit. This is important for both balance and clearance from the helix when the Jeep is rotating. The proper alignment is where the washer from the center posts is touching the extended plastic around the rear axle of jeep.
[quoted image]
Turn the Jeep over and position the plate where the extension is towards the rear of the model. The plate will need to be centered horizontally with the two rear holes straddling the raised piece, and again the washer should be touching the base of the raised rear axle plastic.
[quoted image]
Holding the bracket in place you will want to drill a pilot hole for one of the back screws (do not drill all 4 holes at once. Do them one at a time to ensure proper alignment). I used a 1/16" bit for the pilot holes which worked perfect with the original screws. Once a rear hole is drilled, then insert a screw an tighten to where it is just snug. Don't over do this or you will strip the plastic.
[quoted image]
Next, drill the pilot hole for the screw that is cattycorner to the first one you did (e.g. if you started with the back right, next will be the front left). When doing the front screws don't over tighten them. You want the metal plate to be parallel to the bottom of the Jeep instead of slanting towards the front. Ideally you would use spacers on the front (I didn't have any, but will probably retrofit them later).
[quoted image]
Repeat the process with the remaining two screws.
[quoted image]
When finished, the underside of the assembly should look like this.
[quoted image]
Reattach the newton ball to the shaft, put the 3 washer assembly back on the shaft, then insert the shaft into the hole on the topside of the playfield. On the bottom side of the playfield slide the collar back on paying attention to the orientation, then tighten the set screw. You will want to leave about 1 mm of clearance between the collar and the bushing, otherwise the Jeep will not rotate freely.[quoted image]

Awesome write up mate - clear, precise instructions with plenty of pics!

Oh and I learnt a new word "cattycorner" - it's not a phrase used down under

#8088 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

It is important to do it that way because you don’t want your Jeep to be cattywampus.

Yes that would be a cattyastrophe

#8119 1 year ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Really....a great writeup. The community thanks you!
And....in your pic....I noticed THIS is what stern should have put in mine but instead used too long of a post.
[quoted image]
I went ahead and put the posts where they originally went on mine, and dremeled and sanded the top of my post. So now it looks like this ->
[quoted image]
As you can see....the plastic is still bent and I'm hoping that it "relaxes" with time, but I'm sure it will never lay flat again. It is better, but the ball can still touch the short blade and get potentially caught.
[quoted image]
I may reach out to stern and see if they will send me just the one plastic.
Edit: My JP was born June 2020....so new premium/LE owners might want to take a look under their helicopter to see what post they have on theirs.

I instantly noticed the different post on Mr_Tantrum machine as well - it seems that Stern have switched from the original screw with plastic sleeve to a metal post. Maybe the factory have reported that the post is just too close to the ball guide for the installation of the rubber (similar to what you found) and they needed to make a change. I wonder whether other's build around June have the same post as yours, or if yours is an accident and was supposed to be like Mr_Tantrum machine

Anyway nicely picked up and good to see your addressed yours - I'd suggest contacting Stern, as they probably send you a replacement post (the proper one) and a new plastic ... and possible other parts to ensure you helicopter spins correctly

#8120 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

After my Jeep installation success and positive reviews here in the forum, I was feeling confident and proud of myself so I decided to take on the helicopter install. Unfortunately for me, I was somewhat humbled. On a difficulty scale of 1-10 I would be the Jeep around a 4, but the helicopter is a solid 8 – not impossible, but it takes a little skill, patience, and lots of test fitting. Also, this post is not intended to be the only way to do the helicopter mod. This is the way that I did it. It worked well for me, so I thought I would share as a guide for others who wish to incorporate the same mod.
So with that stated, here I go. To begin with this is the helicopter you will need for modifying the horizontal spinner on your Premium/LE. In addition, the following tools would be ideal for this installation: a drill press, a step bit, a belt or disk sander, misc. drill bits, a Dremel tool with grinding/sanding bits, a hammer, a punch, and a Philips screwdriver. Unfortunately, I don’t own a drill press, step bit, or belt/disk sander, so I made due with some alternative tools: an electric hand drill, various sized drill bits, an electric block sander, and a pneumatic right angle grinder. I’m sure you can make do with other tools, but these are what I used. Also, be sure to wear work gloves when drilling, sanding, etc.
[quoted image]
Here is what the OEM setup looks like on Premium/LE
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
To begin, remove the lockbar and glass then raise the playfield and rest it the black rubber feet on the lockbar receiver. Next carefully remove the screw holding the spinning blades while paying attention to the washer stack and catching it when you remove the screw. Be aware that when you remove the screw completely the metal rod will fall down through the playfield. This is okay as it will not actually fully separate and fall down into the cabinet. Once removed, set everything aside.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
The next step is to separate the plastic bottom from the metal shell of the chopper by drilling out the two rivets that hold them together on the underside of the model. I used a 9/64” bit to do this, but anything close to that will work. When positioning the chopper to drill the rivets be mindful of not breaking the rear rotor. When drilling the front rivet I hung the back off the table, and will drilling the back I supported the tail.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Unfortunately, the rivets didn’t drill clean for me so I finished the job with a hammer and punch, and I was able to separate the two pieces. When separated you can easily remove the landing gear which you will dispose of. Also, you may want to file or trim the metal piece sticking down in the front that received the rivet. I had to trim mine slightly, otherwise it was sticking below the bottom plastic piece after I sanded it down in the steps to come.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Next is to begin drilling the hole in the top of the chopper for the shaft to fit through. Ultimately this hole needs to be 11.5mm (29/64”) in diameter, but you can’t get there all at once. Start by turning the part upside down and marking the spot where you want to drill (this exact center of the current post that the blades are attached to. Of course you will have to estimate, but it is pretty simple to get it right. Then punch the mark to prepare for drilling the pilot hole.
[quoted image]
For the initial pilot hole I used a 3/16” drill bit which was the perfect size for drilling through and popping off the blade post. You’ll see that my hole wasn’t exactly centered nor a perfect circle, but that’s fine as there is opportunity to fix that as I enlarged the hole.
[quoted image]
I next used my angle grinder with a tapered stone bit to enlarge and true the hole in the top of the chopper.
[quoted image]
I then progressively used incremental sized drill bits to enlarge the hole working my way up to 11.5mm (29/64”), and then used my grinder to smooth the rough edges of the drilled hole.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Next, I attached the bottom and marked down through the hole where I needed to drill out the base. Again, I started with a pilot hole but then went straight to the 29/64” bit. Be sure to do this on a block and not just holding it in midair as you want to drill the hole cleanly and centered.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Now it’s time for the first of many test fits. Slide the joined chopper down over the post and see what your clearance looks like. You need the top of the cylinder to be just exactly or a hair above the roof line of the chopper. Obviously, at this point it won’t be.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Next comes sanding with some fairly course sandpaper to take off some of the plastic from the base. I can’t imagine doing this by hand, but I’m sure it is possible with enough effort. When sanding don’t overdo it.
[quoted image]
Sand a little, test fit, sand some more. Also, have the chopper together so that you have something to hold on to, and while sanding keep it flat at the point of the hole (the nose will arc up some). You can see in the photos how much I ended up having to sand off the base. When test fitting, you’ll want the top of the chopper to be just slightly above the top of the shaft
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
The next step is to cut out holes/slots for the 3 screws on the helipad so that the chopper sits down around them. Place the chopper over the shaft and use a Sharpie to mark on the base where you need to cutout plastic for the 3 screws. I used my angle grinder here, but a Dremel too would also be a good tool for the job. Note the 3 spots where I had to cut away plastic for the base to fit over the screws. When I did this it took several test fits as I only wanted to cutaway as little material as necessary. You’ll notice that a large piece of my bottom is missing, and this occurred with sanding as it became very thin. No worries, I just removed it and since the chopper sits down flush I’ll never see it.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Upon test fitting after the screws were accounted for, I was still 1-2 mm too tall. Instead of sanding away more plastic and risk destroying that piece, my solution was to lower the top of the chopper. I covered it with a cloth then used a wood block and hammer to beat it down slightly.
[quoted image]
Again, I was very careful and test fitted between whacks 2 or 3 times until the shaft was just flush with the top of the chopper.
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I then reinstalled the spinner. To do this you’ll need to have all of your parts nearby. Use one hand to reach under the pin and push the metal rod up, and use the other hand to put the washer stack and the blades back onto the rod and then start the screw and washer into the threads so that the rod doesn’t fall back down. Tighten the screw as best as you can. You can’t really grip the rod under the playfield very well, but I did my best with a pair of long needle nose pliers.
Now’s the time to test the spinner by hand to see how well you’ve done, and if you need to make any adjustments. In my case I soon realize that the blades were hitting the tail rotor on occasion. My solution here was to position the tail rotor where the blades did not hit it and apply a dab of hot melt glue to secure it in place.
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[quoted image]
Finally, the job was complete. I chose not to use any adhesive to secure the chopper as it is really not necessary and it would raise it a little. Now that I know everything fits and works perfectly, I may install a red LED inside the chopper and tie it to the adjacent dome light. Also, I’ll probably use a few spots of superglue on the inside to secure the base to the top of the chopper. Oh, and don't forget to put the two screws that were holding the helicopter plastic back on the posts (I put my helicopter plastic in the coin box so I'll be able to find it if/when that day ever comes).
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Well, there you have it. Good luck with the mod, and feel free to offer any insights you gained while installing this mod that I didn’t address.

Great post and awesome job! This should be another key post - 2 in 2 days

#8143 1 year ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

He does seem to be offset slightly to the left. Is that the same for you guys?[quoted image]

Yep the same - being slightly over to the left isn't a bad thing as shooting the ramp from the right flipper you'll more likely to have the ball enter the ramp on that side (eg a slightly mis-hit shot can ricochet the ball off the left ramp wall into T-Rex's mouth)

#8154 1 year ago