Quoted from Hazoff:

Whatever the reason I'm glad they don't have faces of the actors all over.....

Quoted from teekee:

Well if its a bad clear mixture then it a pretty easy fix for Stern... throw out all the remaining playfields and start over. There is no other fix! But again we are all guessing at this point.

Quoted from jGraffix:

Jurassic Park "Stern" Lockdown Bar Accent
https://www.tiltgraphicsinc.com/jurassic-park-stern

Quoted from KnockerPTSD:

Linky worky finey.

Quoted from pickleric:

Your distributer ships the game to your house, it arrives, and then you pay!? I want that distributer!

Quoted from pickleric:

I didn’t say weeks in advance. I asked if some distributors invoice after the game arrives.

Quoted from hawkmoon77:

Interesting. I don't think it'll help to much side-to-side, but it should help more in the up and down. I am going to use a wide shoulder washer (installed underneath) if mine doesn't stay tight. If that doesn't work, I might add a wire-form.

Quoted from jdroc:

Had this happen this morning. I'm pretty sure it was because of this sequence of events:
1. Raptop cage gate open
2. Start chaos MB
3. hit back target on raptop cage
------a. lock post came up then went down (twice actually)
------b. game thought ball was locked in raptor cage
4. chaos MB continued but raptor gate was raised but no ball locked
5. get to 2 balls left in chaos, and chaos MB ends
6. get down to 1 ball left and flippers and lights go dead - game thinks you are out of balls

Quoted from Ockeyhead:

Just need to know if anyone has had trouble w/ installing their shaker motor? I ordered a motor from CoinTaker & the motor case doesn't fit over the motor. The coin-box wood piece that separates the coin-box from the shaker motor & the right side cabinet area completely obstructs the case from fitting over the shaker motor itself. Did anyone have a problem w/ this? Also, is your premade shaker drill holes the same as mine?[quoted image]

Quoted from wheels:

Anyone install Titan rubbers? What's the best color combination? Please share!

Quoted from imagamejunky:

Hey guys.
I've been having problems with my Premium. On almost every game at some point a high speed left orbit shot from the upper flipper isn't registering. Both rollover switches and both optos are working correctly in switch test. My guess is that the left rollover isn't being fully depressed due to the ball speed, or maybe the ball isn't completely flat on the playfield. If it's getting a little airborn it may not be depressing the switch all the way.
I'm just wondering if any of you are seeing this too?
Thanks
Nick

Quoted from northvibe:

Also the post under the upper flipper fell out. I think this is common? Is this a lock tight thing?[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Alex_swe:

Got my pro yesterday. Really addictive game for sure [quoted image]

Quoted from Da-Shaker:

Mine was difficult too. I removed the rubbers and used a small wrench. Turned the wrench 1000 times and finally got it.

Quoted from EaglePin:

I noticed something similar. I might be wrong, but before one of the recent code updates I think every turn of the spinner would register the lane as being hit and clear the lit arrow. Then after an update it seemed like it changed and now a weak shot from the upper part of left flipper that goes past the spinner but maybe only spins it a couple times no longer counts as a shot to clear a lit arrow on that lane.

Quoted from Saucerboy:

I just brought home my first pin... aJP Pro.
I got it set up but I have a question... I received a large rectangular sticker with all my stuff... what is that for?

Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Followed one of the T-Rex fix tutorials I found in this thread, and although it helped center the T-Rex, I think the vertical alignment is way off.
Here is a video showing the jaw slamming down on the ramp so much so that the screws are shaking loose.

Is Stern not looking at this stuff before the put a game in a box?
Anyone know what I can do to fix this?

Quoted from DavidPinballWizz:

Is the new code for the Escape Wizard mode that you can start when you want (hit both flippers before you press start) also the actual wizard mode for completing the game?

Quoted from Nameim:

When shooting for the smart missile launch, why would a player choose "abort" from the action button?

Quoted from metallik:

....grind a bit off the rivets so the ball can't hit them. Same with the screw in the tower ramp approach.

Quoted from Jediturtle:

At least my manual is near perfect.

Quoted from per3per3:

I ask because my machine had the updated metal bracket on the left side of the ramp entrance and the black spacers for the roof plastic. I know the older machines didn't have the metal bracket so wasn't sure if this kit just brings the original run machines to mine in terms of how it shipped or if this is truly unrelated.

Quoted from SheriffBarclay:

Anybody else get a significant number of rattle rejects on the watchtower shot? It very often goes up the u turn, rattles around, and falls out.

Quoted from fooflighter:

I haven't searched yet, but a small flat pan head screw should do the trick aside from a Dremel shave

Quoted from RikV:

...and if that wasn’t enough, I just changed the target position so that it is even between the raptor tower and the left orbit. Yours seems to need adjustment too.
[quoted image]

Quoted from Yesh23:

Has anyone put flat screws on both orbiting ramps instead of the regular screws that come stock? Curious if anyone has done this if it made both smoother?[quoted image]

Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Anyone know what flat screw would be the proper replacement, and any comments on improvements after grinding down the current screws?

Quoted from RikV:

Still getting this game dialed in and I wanted to ask about when the ball is leaving the control room. On mine, if the ball is caught by the up post and released I can usually catch it on the left flipper, but when it’s a fast shot up and comes back with some speed it ends up being a frantic attempt to prevent the ball from draining down the middle.
How does your game play? Should I start bending the ball guide a bit? Game is set to 7 degrees.

Quoted from RikV:

Just to be clear, mylar in the crease of the ball guide itself, not on the play field, correct? Photo when you get a chance? I will try this, thanks.

Quoted from jandrea95:

Im with you, wtf! Luckily ended up being easy. Curious if a super flat wrench could get under there.

Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:

yeah, but where is that "amber light connection", i think it has its own programed light show?

Quoted from WedgeTheJedi:

Attached the .pdf and provided a direct download link below as well if that makes it easier to print. Apparently on older versions of MS Publisher the spacing is off vs the newest version that I used. So try this PDF if all else fails and just print it through that on photo paper.
https://1drv.ms/b/s!Asy0Vb60mZ1el9JBeeHyPITSaAN3Vg?e=2sP7Cc[quoted image]

Quoted from gblack:

Can anyone confirm if the perfectplay slim post sleeves are tapered....

Quoted from WizardsCastle:

I also have the ramp opto fix from Stern installed.

Quoted from WizardsCastle:

What do you mean by misaligned? Can you share a photo of yours?

Quoted from kingfishtr:

Really? I thought it was supposed to line up perfectly at the flipper tip with the tiny whole(circle) in the playfield... am I wrong?
[quoted image]

Quoted from fooflighter:

I just put black rubber back on mine after going all around testing different ones....I started with red factory rubber, went to Pinball Life Perfect Play, then Titans, then Superbands, back to red rubber, now after all that, I'm liking the shots with the black rubber the best..
Here's my takeaway after doing about 2 weeks of consistant play with each type of flipper rubber
Black Rubber - best bounce, not too hard, not too soft like red rubber, nice consistancy with shots, best post passing and flipper tricks
Red Rubber - a little too squishy, have softer shot authority, harder to trap up and hit ramps with consistant power, leave red bits all over playfield after 50 plays, get dirty very fast
Perfect Play - slippery, dead bounce, awful
Titans - better than the Perfect play, too much ball slip and still somewhat dead bounce
Superbands - great at first, very hard which made shots really scream up ramps, much harder to control as they add tons of spin and crazy pyhsics to the ball, very hard to predict, makes shots easier but made game much too random and hectic, not fun when trying to progress
I have stuck with Titans for all the rings and posts though and this combination with the black rubber provides the cleanest playfield and the best play overall...I'm really OCD about most things, this was no different

Quoted from pin2d:

Hi all, sorry if this has been covered previously...I'm curious about the feed from the Raptor pit area, the "C" shot, the Control Room shot. The end of the ball guide on mine bumps it so it goes closer to down the middle, just curious if it is supposed to play like this or go to the left flipper?
Thanks!
[quoted image]

Quoted from DavidPinballWizz:

Just a question for the strategy players here:
Do you always go for the combo:
control room mode + running paddock + chaos multiball?
I'm asking because I do not know the game in detail yet but noticed you can really rack up points with the first combo
I had a 1B single ball only doing that first combo, got a lot of points from amber pops, amber slings, amber targets, ..
Deeper in the game do you strange strategies (for example paddocks towards king of the island, trex modes) for further scoring, collecting fossiles, etc..?

Quoted from EaglePin:

INLANE POST NOT STAYING UP FOR SMART MISSILE WHEN T-REX MB STARTS!!!! I mean, um, not that it's been irritating me lately or anything... you know, fix it or not, whatever... I don't care... BUT FIX IT!!!

Quoted from weaverj:

anyone put cliffys on their shooter lane? specifically, anyone know what those two nail/bolt things are to the left. i stripped one. hoping lowe's has some.

Quoted from weaverj:

first thing i did was check the manual, but didn't see anything. marco didn't have them either. i'll go into lowe's and look like an idiot. i'm good at that.

Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Is the truck ball always in the closed/right position when you start your missile shot?

Quoted from nicoy3k:

Any tips for hitting the tower shot- is this meant to be a tough shot?
I can only hit it consistently off the flipper tip when the ball trickles out of the bumpers but I’m having trouble hitting it off the ramp/loop. I am 7 degree incline.

Quoted from gblack:

hmm i'll try to see if that happens for me as I feel like last time in Trex it was correct? Have you reported this? Seems like that would have been easy to fix in this code release if they knew about it.
On that note I wish Stern had true release notes with "known issues" to see if we should report things like this or if they are already working on it.

Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:

Just tested this manually and after 2 rescues the set trap target do light and after hitting them, the helipad lights.

Quoted from Stags6969:

Has anyone had issues with the smart missile activating during the skill shot phase?
I've had it happen twice today, when a rescue was sat on the left ramp and it activated smart missile, effectively killing the skill shot sequence.

Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Here's what's happening 50% of the time with my auto and manual launch:

Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Here's what's happening 50% of the time with my auto and manual launch:

Quoted from gorditas:

I'm replacing factory rubber with Titans today. When removing one adjacent to the 2x scoring target, I noticed it was cut. "I'll have to stretch it to keep from cutting the new one myself." Nope. Factory results.
Short of grinding the corner, has anyone had any luck? The original never broke, maybe this will last a while too.
[quoted image]

Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Red rubber was even worse. Black improved, but barely. I probably get it across to the right 30% of the time enough to actually catch it.
Rest of the time, it's just a weak-ass pass that I have to immediately flip or it's a drain.
What could be causing this? Anyone?
I'm considering rebuilding the entire flipper, which is insane for a brand new LE game.

Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

Second T-Rex mode, mine is only catching the ball about 33% of the time when I hit the ramp and when he misses, it’s often SDTM. The first T-Rex mode (multiball) doesn’t have to catch so it starts fine 100% when I hit the ramp (sometimes catches, sometimes doesn’t).
So is this standard behavior or should it catch every time I hit the ramp in the 2nd and 3rd modes?
Maybe his head position is not properly calibrated? I feel like when he does catch it it’s when I hit the right side of the ramp.
Thanks!

Quoted from Multiballmaniac1:

Has anyone’s Jeep Newton ball stopped swinging around freely causing the Newton action to not work. Notice some small pieces of the flipper bushing at the base of Jeep Newton ball mechanism on playfield. Now it gets hung up a little. Not as free swinging. Makes it harder to complete TREX. Any ideas?
Thanks
[quoted image]

Quoted from EaglePin:

Do smart missiles stack?

Quoted from ectobar:

"Random websites" is an interesting way to label the most heavily trafficked pinball website.

Quoted from mcvetyty:

Where are you getting that from? Manual says 6.5 degrees.

Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Or maybe we can put this to rest with an official response here for everyone...
sk8ball what is the angle you recommend setting this game at?

Quoted from zh2oson:

I don't mean to brag, but I'm in the top 15...
...thousand.

Quoted from Markharris2000:

Yup. I took a look and can easily tweak the blade to put some space between the time the first set and the second set make contact.
Related topic: mechanical contacts seem like a big step backward versus the opto-set used on other machines. Still a bit surprising, but then again the much lower cost must be driving that choice. An opto set like Williams A-20207 (including LED, Detector, molded plastics, a few resistors, the PCB, connectors, leaf spring and screws) probably costs $2.50 all in for a volume production line. The machanical blade approach and two screws are probably 30-cents or so. To get an idea of their costing structure, I multiple their COST by 10X to get an idea of what the retail price would have to be increased to pay for the parts.

Quoted from finnflash:

I noticed a washer shoot across the playfield and see I'm missing a screw at the Trex ramp.
So I lift the playfield and find this screw in the cab. Can someone confirm this goes there? And if not where do they even use this type?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from mcvetyty:

The left outlane is a ball save (labeled escape) - I’d start my troubleshooting with that switch.

Quoted from Galvez1978:

Hello friends, can i make question? I want reserve a JP Pro but here in Spain are all sold out, my local distributor have only one Premium in stock, he will receive the Pro in the middle of next year, i must wait for the Pro? Or go to the Premium?
The distributor offered the Premium with 10% of discount, side arts and shaker motor for free.
Thank you so much!

Quoted from Galvez1978:

I just buy the JP Premium and the shaker motor, but i do not received yet, you know it are any tutorial for install it? Regards?

Quoted from Markharris2000:

Two things I suggest when you are ready to install the shaker motor:
1) get some nylon cable tie-wraps and tie the wiring to the existing wires that run from right to left behind the cash box. It will make the installation much cleaner and prevent any tugging on those cables accidently if you pull the cashbox out. I used 5 tie-wraps.
2) get some BLUE thread-lock liquid. Harbor Frieght sells both RED and BLUE for $2 a bottle. Get the BLUE and put a drop on each thread before you screw the four screws into the cabinet mounted T-Nuts. (Blue is the medium strength, semi-permanent type)
Note1: The Premium is pre-drilled and T-Nuts installed, but not very consistently. I would use a small hammer and tap each of the T-Nuts into the cabinet from underneath before you try and install the shaker motor screws from up top. The provided longer screws that go through the cabinet are 'just' long enough if the T-Nuts are tapped in properly.
Note2: The two self-threading hex cap screws that hold the plastic cover on will be a challenge to get installed, but they WILL work! The brackets are somewhat moveable with some pressure, so just stay at it and it will thread with enough energy applied! Get the first one in, and then push/tug/press the cover front to back to front to meet the second hold and press hard when it starts to line up!

Quoted from mcvetyty:

Oh man! I get rejected from this shot all the time... Wonder if this is my issue? Can you tell me more about how you ground it down? Did you just sand some of the top off? That didn't impact your ability to get a screwdriver inserted?

Quoted from nicoy3k:

Don’t see why you would risk a dremel slip and tearing up your playfield, removing the screw is tricky but doesn’t require removing anything else from the playfield if you have the right tools and patience.
Just remove the screw and use a dremel or anything else to sand it down as much as you can while maintaining the integrity of the screw. If you mess it up you can always go to the hardware store and buy a new screw
My ball was just fractionally touching so I didn’t do this at first. I was never getting that many rejects but when I finally decided to fix the screw the shot became much smoother.

Quoted from jlock:

Anyone else have issue of C shot returning SDTM too often? Mine just started doing so and I'm wondering whether there are any fixes short of bending the end of the rail inward.

Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:

My autolaunches are getting worse to a point it really pisses me off and I do not know how to fix it.
I realigned the shooter fork, did the washer fix and lifted up the heli ramp a littlebit, since the ball sometimes touches it from below.
Yesterday I took alot of slomo videos. One big problem is the thin metal flap on the right side of the shooter lane. Its enough send the ball into the opposite direction, leading to massive rattling. However sometimes the ball launches perfectly straight and it still wont make it up the ramp. Any ideas?[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from NightTrain:

What is this mode???

Quoted from pingod:

It is a whole replacement head.

Quoted from Gogdog:

Just put a Premium at my house! Reading through the thread, though is this a common complaint that the helipad flasher is too exposed and blinding to the player? It is for me..(exposed lights bug me). I saw one person use a Pteranodon wing to cover it, but has something better been devised?
[quoted image]

Quoted from LoserKid_Pinball:

Also a lot of the time when I auto plunge, the ball won't do the 180 turn and just trickles down to a flipper.

Quoted from Green-Machine:

That is exactly what is needed.

Quoted from Eskaybee:

He does seem to be offset slightly to the left. Is that the same for you guys?[quoted image]

Quoted from Markharris2000:

His latest is Version 39 and you can get by dropping him a note to get the link.

Quoted from Dr_Gonzo:

I tried searching but didn't find anything related to the best path to take using the truck. Any advice? Can you skip the number of paddocks? It seems no matter left or right you'll still have the same number.

Quoted from Dr_Gonzo:

Yes, poor wording on my part. Avoid paddocks is more what I meant. KOTI is only for spinosaurus right?

Quoted from pinballwil:

Put some fillings under the ramp just like the wms games from the 90. Now the flow is smooth.

Quoted from holminone:

Ok. Going nuts. Trying to solve my T-rex acting like a mis-behaving golden retriever. The mouth opto is not registering when the t-rex is in the playing position, but "kind of"does when his head is pointed to the sky. See youtube video I just made.. Suggestions?

Quoted from Da-Shaker:

Why is there 2 Helipads and how do you know which to shoot for?

Quoted from ProjektPat:

I am officially part of this club. Picked up a brand new machine from Little Shop of Games on Saturday.

Quoted from rickyrooroo:

Before I break something...is this hard to fix? I couldn't find a youtube video or anything in this thread on how to fix this. Thanks for your help.
[quoted image]

Quoted from Hop721:

Regarding extra balls, I’ll pass on what I have drilled into my own head: First smart missile-hit action button 2 times for +5 rescues-often immediately lights extra ball (if hit, obviously). Second smart missile-hit action button 3 times for extra ball award (if first s.m. was a successful hit). I do it without looking now, which is pretty helpful if in the middle of a multi-ball.

Quoted from Soulstoner:

That would kill the spirit of the difficult shot.
Don’t miss!

Quoted from Jakers:

Is this a common thing on the premiums? I swear this happens almost every day. Glass has to come off.
[quoted image]

Quoted from LordHumungus:

Hate the dino heads by the slings, gone.

Quoted from Animal:

Regarding fan noise, I remember it well with Aerosmith, anyone have feedback on 300W SPIKE PLUG N PLAY QUIET FAN KIT?? Is it reliable? Provide enough air circulation?

Quoted from Higloss67:

I’m looking for suggestions on what to use for replacement post sleeves. I want the game to play as close as possible to factory. I have seen the following replacement posts.
Marco - black rubber post sleeves
Marco - Super Bands post sleeves
PBL- Perfect Play thin rubber post sleeves
Thoughts?