(Topic ID: 248582)

Jurassic Park (Stern 2019) Owners Club. Welcome! To Jurassic park.....

By Scribbles

2 years ago

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Topic index (key posts)

10 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #72 Custom Jurassic Park apron cards Posted by Coindropper (2 years ago)

Post #230 Custom Apron Cards for Stern JP Posted by Coindropper (2 years ago)

Post #326 Rules tips and info on some wizard modes Posted by sk8ball (2 years ago)

Post #365 Printable Instruction cards for the pin Posted by PinballZach (2 years ago)

Post #366 The first Full Unboxing Video Posted by ZMeny (2 years ago)

Post #425 Feature Matrix of Pro vs Premium vs LE Posted by Scribbles (2 years ago)

Post #468 How to qualify control room modes Posted by jonesjb (2 years ago)

Post #2298 Keith Elwin explains JP rules Posted by MRG (2 years ago)

Post #3040 Raptor target not registering or "ghost" registering, possible fix Posted by Jesder (2 years ago)

Post #5270 make the jeep work well Posted by Scribbles (1 year ago)

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#422 2 years ago
Quoted from Hazoff:

Whatever the reason I'm glad they don't have faces of the actors all over.....


Not a fan of actors all over a game. I appreciate the essence - fighting dinos, saving peeps, etc. Too many movie themes rely on the actors and their crappy monologue imo. In the same concept, while I like the music themed pins, I don’t want to own one for the same reason .... I don’t want to get sick of listening to 30 seconds of the same Metallica/AC-DC/Who/Iron Maiden song - great gameplay though.


#677 2 years ago
Quoted from teekee:

Well if its a bad clear mixture then it a pretty easy fix for Stern... throw out all the remaining playfields and start over. There is no other fix! But again we are all guessing at this point.

They can strip, rescreen and clear an already cut play field. Not as devastating as it sounds but it will take time.

#817 2 years ago

I have a deposit on a JP Premium and I have a question for current owners.....

I’m pretty excited about the complexity of the software, however, I was watching this —>

<—- to get a feel for game play and I’m a little concerned about the number of drains. Specifically the left out-lane eating balls, and a bunch of unforgiving rebounds sdtm.

Is there a left out-lane post that can be closed up a little? And has anyone done any playfield tweaks to make the sdtm drains a little less common?

#947 2 years ago
#956 2 years ago
Quoted from KnockerPTSD:

Linky worky finey.

Must be my location.... I’m overseas for a bit.

#1051 2 years ago

How does a coil stop break so quickly??

2 weeks later
#1553 2 years ago
Quoted from pickleric:

Your distributer ships the game to your house, it arrives, and then you pay!? I want that distributer!

Why is that so unusual? What else do you pay for weeks before you receive it? Real estate doesn’t even work that way.

#1558 2 years ago
Quoted from pickleric:

I didn’t say weeks in advance. I asked if some distributors invoice after the game arrives.

If you’re paying in full now for a prem/LE - that’s at least one week in advance, probably two.

Mine is on delivery or pickup.

1 week later
#1764 2 years ago

Can one of you MOD makers make a wireform connector or a plastic piece that connects the flipper post to this post (see image)?

I think that would take some pressure off that flipper post and provide better longevity.
D3A2B6EA-4BB9-43B7-8C01-5FFFC3F6056C (resized).jpeg

#1770 2 years ago
Quoted from hawkmoon77:

Interesting. I don't think it'll help to much side-to-side, but it should help more in the up and down. I am going to use a wide shoulder washer (installed underneath) if mine doesn't stay tight. If that doesn't work, I might add a wire-form.

I don’t think side to side impacts are hard enough to matter. But if you want, you could triangulate it with the post on the right loop plastics.

1 month later
#2584 2 years ago
Quoted from jdroc:

Had this happen this morning. I'm pretty sure it was because of this sequence of events:
1. Raptop cage gate open
2. Start chaos MB
3. hit back target on raptop cage
------a. lock post came up then went down (twice actually)
------b. game thought ball was locked in raptor cage
4. chaos MB continued but raptor gate was raised but no ball locked
5. get to 2 balls left in chaos, and chaos MB ends
6. get down to 1 ball left and flippers and lights go dead - game thinks you are out of balls

I just had something similar happen after T-Rex Multiball. Game went back to the standard game mode after TRMulti with 2 balls left in play. Lost one of the two and the game cycles - goes black and dead like after a ball - ball 2 drains and game continues to the subsequent ball if you aren’t on ball 3.


#2610 2 years ago
Quoted from Ockeyhead:

Just need to know if anyone has had trouble w/ installing their shaker motor? I ordered a motor from CoinTaker &amp; the motor case doesn't fit over the motor. The coin-box wood piece that separates the coin-box from the shaker motor &amp; the right side cabinet area completely obstructs the case from fitting over the shaker motor itself. Did anyone have a problem w/ this? Also, is your premade shaker drill holes the same as mine?[quoted image]

I got a Stern shaker from my distro and the holes lines up but the cover was a tight fit. It’s pretty soft plastic and took a little push and shove to get it on right. I would trim the cover.

2 weeks later
#2814 2 years ago
Quoted from wheels:

Anyone install Titan rubbers? What's the best color combination? Please share!

I had orange and green but ended up switching the lanes, flippers, and slings back to rubber. I didn’t like how the ball came off the Titans. Still have the Titans on the posts and upper playfield though.

#2847 2 years ago
Quoted from imagamejunky:

Hey guys.
I've been having problems with my Premium. On almost every game at some point a high speed left orbit shot from the upper flipper isn't registering. Both rollover switches and both optos are working correctly in switch test. My guess is that the left rollover isn't being fully depressed due to the ball speed, or maybe the ball isn't completely flat on the playfield. If it's getting a little airborn it may not be depressing the switch all the way.
I'm just wondering if any of you are seeing this too?

Some shots on my machine aren’t registering either. I just put it all together tonight.... my spinner and left loop (from upper flipper) have had some misses. Going to dive into it this weekend.

If anyone has some insight, please share.

#2863 2 years ago
Quoted from northvibe:

Also the post under the upper flipper fell out. I think this is common? Is this a lock tight thing?[quoted image][quoted image]

As I understand it, the earlier builds did not have a nylock nut on the back of the playfield For the flipper post and people were having problems with them coming loose. The later builds (like my Prem) have the modified post. My HUO hasn’t come loose.

#2864 2 years ago
Quoted from Alex_swe:

Got my pro yesterday. Really addictive game for sure [quoted image]

Ha - twinsies!!!

2D5C316A-383B-47A8-992D-3B8F098E741D (resized).jpeg
1 week later
#3074 2 years ago
Quoted from trk12fire:

Mine was difficult too. I removed the rubbers and used a small wrench. Turned the wrench 1000 times and finally got it.

+1 .... and I replaced the post with a star post

74114F70-F8E6-4C34-90D5-6F5F7142FD4F (resized).jpeg
#3077 2 years ago
Quoted from Scribbles:

Does the combination of lowering the post and putting the wider star post in almost eliminate right side drains??

Nope - still drains. It’s not as dramatic of a change as you may think.

2 weeks later
#3229 1 year ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

I noticed something similar. I might be wrong, but before one of the recent code updates I think every turn of the spinner would register the lane as being hit and clear the lit arrow. Then after an update it seemed like it changed and now a weak shot from the upper part of left flipper that goes past the spinner but maybe only spins it a couple times no longer counts as a shot to clear a lit arrow on that lane.

This is my experience as well (premium).

#3301 1 year ago
Quoted from Saucerboy:

I just brought home my first pin... aJP Pro.
I got it set up but I have a question... I received a large rectangular sticker with all my stuff... what is that for?


#3315 1 year ago
Quoted from Scribbles:

... I also needed to shim the left side of my shooter ramp. There's a post here on how to do it. Takes 5 minutes.


Just make sure that the left side of the ramp stays below the wood cutout. I only needed a washer under mine to get it to launch perfectly.


#3366 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Followed one of the T-Rex fix tutorials I found in this thread, and although it helped center the T-Rex, I think the vertical alignment is way off.
Here is a video showing the jaw slamming down on the ramp so much so that the screws are shaking loose.

Is Stern not looking at this stuff before the put a game in a box?
Anyone know what I can do to fix this?


1 month later
#3802 1 year ago
Quoted from DavidPinballWizz:

Is the new code for the Escape Wizard mode that you can start when you want (hit both flippers before you press start) also the actual wizard mode for completing the game?

I believe it’s still in beta.

2 weeks later
#3979 1 year ago
Quoted from Nameim:

When shooting for the smart missile launch, why would a player choose "abort" from the action button?

IIRC ... there is a cumulative effect on some rewards when you abort.

3 weeks later
#4267 1 year ago
Quoted from metallik:

....grind a bit off the rivets so the ball can't hit them. Same with the screw in the tower ramp approach.

I did this to the tower ramp screw. Dremel tool with a fine stone. The ball now clears the ramp without hitting the bottom screw.

2 weeks later
#4367 1 year ago
Quoted from Jediturtle:

At least my manual is near perfect.

Mine is the same. I also did the fork fix with the washers but I need to take a peek at some slo-mo on my auto-launch.

Unfortunately auto-plunge kicks in a lot on this game - add-a-ball, ball save, multi-ball - and it is very inconsistent on my game. Wondering if it’s an electronics issue at this point (dying coil)??

#4385 1 year ago
Quoted from per3per3:

I ask because my machine had the updated metal bracket on the left side of the ramp entrance and the black spacers for the roof plastic. I know the older machines didn't have the metal bracket so wasn't sure if this kit just brings the original run machines to mine in terms of how it shipped or if this is truly unrelated.

Try removing the black spacers under the plastic cover at the entrance to the ramp - see if that helps.

1 week later
#4577 1 year ago
Quoted from SheriffBarclay:

Anybody else get a significant number of rattle rejects on the watchtower shot? It very often goes up the u turn, rattles around, and falls out.

On my premium, the ball was hitting this screw (pic) and caused a lot of rattled shots.

I took painters tape and masked off the left screw of the entrance ramp. Then I took a Dremel with a stone bit and ground the screw head down so that the ball no longer made contact with the screw head.

EDIT: sorry about the landscape - can’t change it.
C081ACC0-2D34-4F82-9393-0872FF12895A (resized).jpeg

#4586 1 year ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

I haven't searched yet, but a small flat pan head screw should do the trick aside from a Dremel shave

I found it easier to shave than to replace. It doesn’t take much grinding - check clearances often and take your time.

#4593 1 year ago
Quoted from skogen75:

...and if that wasn’t enough, I just changed the target position so that it is even between the raptor tower and the left orbit. Yours seems to need adjustment too.
[quoted image]

Yep - ordered a few the Pinball Life target kits...


#4618 1 year ago
Quoted from Yesh23:

Has anyone put flat screws on both orbiting ramps instead of the regular screws that come stock? Curious if anyone has done this if it made both smoother?[quoted image]


#4647 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Anyone know what flat screw would be the proper replacement, and any comments on improvements after grinding down the current screws?

Don’t know what replacement screw would work but I can tell you grinding down the screw (and it isn’t much grinding) made a significant difference in Tower success rates and the general smoothness of the shot. Doesn’t take as much steam to make the turn.

#4678 1 year ago

This quarantine is great for my JP scores...

Tk62zFvQRT+Fcr6ZpIHoMA (resized).jpg
#4700 1 year ago

I had to tweak my TRex a little - adjusted center - adjusted height (loosen mech from behind) - and did the tape trick on the ramp before the revised part became available. Since dialing it in, I haven’t touched it once.

The TRex is one of the best mechs/toys/features in pinball I’ve ever seen. I’ve played a pro and they play fine but that TRex.... it’s a must have imo.

#4764 1 year ago
Quoted from skogen75:

Still getting this game dialed in and I wanted to ask about when the ball is leaving the control room. On mine, if the ball is caught by the up post and released I can usually catch it on the left flipper, but when it’s a fast shot up and comes back with some speed it ends up being a frantic attempt to prevent the ball from draining down the middle.
How does your game play? Should I start bending the ball guide a bit? Game is set to 7 degrees.

I’ve been playing around with a solution to this....

What I’ve found is, the last bend in the ball guide on the control room on mine was a little too sharp. I ended up putting a very narrow piece of painters tape in the crease to soften the transition out of the control room. It worked well and I ended up putting a very small (narrow) bit of mylar in the crease. The ball now travels along the left sling and can easily be caught by the left flipper.

#4778 1 year ago
Quoted from skogen75:

Just to be clear, mylar in the crease of the ball guide itself, not on the play field, correct? Photo when you get a chance? I will try this, thanks.

Tested it with painters tape then used mylar same spot same size piece.

A6C75453-F69D-48F3-8A0E-AEC583C68AAD (resized).jpeg

2 weeks later
#4936 1 year ago

I wish the Control Room modes would save progress so that you can go back and finish them up on subsequent visits to the control room.

I’m a decent player and terrible at the fossils as well.

#4960 1 year ago
Quoted from jandrea95:

Im with you, wtf! Luckily ended up being easy. Curious if a super flat wrench could get under there.


amazon.com link »

#4977 1 year ago
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:

yeah, but where is that "amber light connection", i think it has its own programed light show?

Use GI.

#5036 1 year ago
Quoted from WedgeTheJedi:

Attached the .pdf and provided a direct download link below as well if that makes it easier to print. Apparently on older versions of MS Publisher the spacing is off vs the newest version that I used. So try this PDF if all else fails and just print it through that on photo paper.
https://1drv.ms/b/s!Asy0Vb60mZ1el9JBeeHyPITSaAN3Vg?e=2sP7Cc[quoted image]

I caught TRex yesterday and I’m pretty sure the TRex capture awards an extra ball, not “lights extra ball.”

Nice work on the card - definitely printing this out.

2 weeks later
#5145 1 year ago
Quoted from gblack:

Can anyone confirm if the perfectplay slim post sleeves are tapered....

PerfectPlay ‘slim’ post sleeves are not tpered.

#5163 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

I also have the ramp opto fix from Stern installed.

Double check that ramp opto piece installation - it looks like it’s misaligned (0:20 in the first video) - that could be causing a lot of your problems.

#5165 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

What do you mean by misaligned? Can you share a photo of yours?

Mine with the upgraded ramp opto piece - sorry about the quality but you get the gist. Yours looks incorrect. I remember it being a little tricky to get new piece on correctly.

43BEAC8F-CB2C-4465-9B52-178EAF582789 (resized).png5D909CD1-747B-456D-82EE-3721CE688698 (resized).png
#5314 1 year ago
Quoted from kingfishtr:

Really? I thought it was supposed to line up perfectly at the flipper tip with the tiny whole(circle) in the playfield... am I wrong?
[quoted image]

You are wrong - it will go sdtm if the flipper is aligned with the post.... ask me how I know.

#5395 1 year ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

I just put black rubber back on mine after going all around testing different ones....I started with red factory rubber, went to Pinball Life Perfect Play, then Titans, then Superbands, back to red rubber, now after all that, I'm liking the shots with the black rubber the best..
Here's my takeaway after doing about 2 weeks of consistant play with each type of flipper rubber
Black Rubber - best bounce, not too hard, not too soft like red rubber, nice consistancy with shots, best post passing and flipper tricks
Red Rubber - a little too squishy, have softer shot authority, harder to trap up and hit ramps with consistant power, leave red bits all over playfield after 50 plays, get dirty very fast
Perfect Play - slippery, dead bounce, awful
Titans - better than the Perfect play, too much ball slip and still somewhat dead bounce
Superbands - great at first, very hard which made shots really scream up ramps, much harder to control as they add tons of spin and crazy pyhsics to the ball, very hard to predict, makes shots easier but made game much too random and hectic, not fun when trying to progress
I have stuck with Titans for all the rings and posts though and this combination with the black rubber provides the cleanest playfield and the best play overall...I'm really OCD about most things, this was no different

I am of the same opinion in general.

The poly or silicone on the flippers just didn’t do it for me. In the playfield they’re fine - less residue - but I felt it changed the dynamics of the flippers too much. Red rubber on the flippers was my last stop but I too think the black provide a better overall feel than anything else.

#5409 1 year ago


#5423 1 year ago
Quoted from pin2d:

Hi all, sorry if this has been covered previously...I'm curious about the feed from the Raptor pit area, the "C" shot, the Control Room shot. The end of the ball guide on mine bumps it so it goes closer to down the middle, just curious if it is supposed to play like this or go to the left flipper?
[quoted image]

Had the same problem....


1 week later
#5566 1 year ago
Quoted from DavidPinballWizz:

Just a question for the strategy players here:
Do you always go for the combo:
control room mode + running paddock + chaos multiball?
I'm asking because I do not know the game in detail yet but noticed you can really rack up points with the first combo
I had a 1B single ball only doing that first combo, got a lot of points from amber pops, amber slings, amber targets, ..
Deeper in the game do you strange strategies (for example paddocks towards king of the island, trex modes) for further scoring, collecting fossiles, etc..?

Raptor multi-ball can be huge points when stacked and played well.

#5571 1 year ago

53 rescues X 3 - added every bonus count.

1 week later
#5654 1 year ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

INLANE POST NOT STAYING UP FOR SMART MISSILE WHEN T-REX MB STARTS!!!! I mean, um, not that it's been irritating me lately or anything... you know, fix it or not, whatever... I don't care... BUT FIX IT!!!

And the Skill Shot!!

#5658 1 year ago
Quoted from weaverj:

anyone put cliffys on their shooter lane? specifically, anyone know what those two nail/bolt things are to the left. i stripped one. hoping lowe's has some.

I did but I can’t tell you what those fasteners are. Self anchoring screws?? I would imagine they’re in the manual and available at Marco’s or something.

#5663 1 year ago
Quoted from weaverj:

first thing i did was check the manual, but didn't see anything. marco didn't have them either. i'll go into lowe's and look like an idiot. i'm good at that.

Definitely a strange fastener. Call tech at Stern if you strike out at Lowes.

#5680 1 year ago


1 week later
#5805 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Is the truck ball always in the closed/right position when you start your missile shot?

#5830 1 year ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

Any tips for hitting the tower shot- is this meant to be a tough shot?
I can only hit it consistently off the flipper tip when the ball trickles out of the bumpers but I’m having trouble hitting it off the ramp/loop. I am 7 degree incline.

Check to see if the ball is hitting the screw on the ramp transition. Mine was and I was getting a lot of tower shot rejects. Used a Dremel tool to grind the screw head down a bit so the ball doesn’t hit it anymore.

#5876 1 year ago

Digging the code update but still waiting on a fix for smart missile interrupting the skill shot - frustrates me to no end.

#5878 1 year ago

And this one has been bugging me too....

On both the TRex and Spinsaurous paddocks after 2 rescues the callout is “shoot the set trap targets” when 3 rescues are required to light the targets. It’s the little things.

#5881 1 year ago
Quoted from gblack:

hmm i'll try to see if that happens for me as I feel like last time in Trex it was correct? Have you reported this? Seems like that would have been easy to fix in this code release if they knew about it.
On that note I wish Stern had true release notes with "known issues" to see if we should report things like this or if they are already working on it.

Absolutely sure. And I have not reported it.

It used to confuse me because I’d hear the callout and fire off a quick shot only to realize they weren’t lit.

#5883 1 year ago
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:

Just tested this manually and after 2 rescues the set trap target do light and after hitting them, the helipad lights.

I guess I need to check my machine.

3 weeks later
#6197 1 year ago
Quoted from Stags6969:

Has anyone had issues with the smart missile activating during the skill shot phase?
I've had it happen twice today, when a rescue was sat on the left ramp and it activated smart missile, effectively killing the skill shot sequence.

Yep - it’s happened to me too. I was hoping 1.02 would fix that but no dice.

#6287 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Here's what's happening 50% of the time with my auto and manual launch:

Your slo-mo isn’t capturing the launch. To properly diagnose the issue you need to see the kicker impact the ball and follow the ball up the guide.

#6288 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Here's what's happening 50% of the time with my auto and manual launch:

I would also have a look at the right side of that Cliffy and make sure it’s aligned with the groove in the playfield - looks a little too far left.

#6346 1 year ago
Quoted from gorditas:

I'm replacing factory rubber with Titans today. When removing one adjacent to the 2x scoring target, I noticed it was cut. "I'll have to stretch it to keep from cutting the new one myself." Nope. Factory results.
Short of grinding the corner, has anyone had any luck? The original never broke, maybe this will last a while too.
[quoted image]

Nope - I took a dremel and notched and chamfered the ball guide so that it didn’t tear up my rubber. It’s not as bad as it sounds.

#6384 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Red rubber was even worse. Black improved, but barely. I probably get it across to the right 30% of the time enough to actually catch it.
Rest of the time, it's just a weak-ass pass that I have to immediately flip or it's a drain.
What could be causing this? Anyone?
I'm considering rebuilding the entire flipper, which is insane for a brand new LE game.

Like MrMikeman stated, I think the timing is just different on this game. On mine one side passes easier than the other but with some timing changes I can pass both ways.

#6390 1 year ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

Second T-Rex mode, mine is only catching the ball about 33% of the time when I hit the ramp and when he misses, it’s often SDTM. The first T-Rex mode (multiball) doesn’t have to catch so it starts fine 100% when I hit the ramp (sometimes catches, sometimes doesn’t).
So is this standard behavior or should it catch every time I hit the ramp in the 2nd and 3rd modes?
Maybe his head position is not properly calibrated? I feel like when he does catch it it’s when I hit the right side of the ramp.


#6395 1 year ago
Quoted from Multiballmaniac1:

Has anyone’s Jeep Newton ball stopped swinging around freely causing the Newton action to not work. Notice some small pieces of the flipper bushing at the base of Jeep Newton ball mechanism on playfield. Now it gets hung up a little. Not as free swinging. Makes it harder to complete TREX. Any ideas?
[quoted image]

It’s all in the “Key Posts” guys - top of the page.


#6449 1 year ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Do smart missiles stack?


#6507 1 year ago

Why are you guys being so evasive about who you are and what your ranking is.... or do you just enjoy making people feel inferior on random websites?

#6509 1 year ago
Quoted from ectobar:

"Random websites" is an interesting way to label the most heavily trafficked pinball website.

Okay, thrill me. Thrill us.

#6532 1 year ago
Quoted from mcvetyty:

Where are you getting that from? Manual says 6.5 degrees.

In one of KME’s interviews he stated that he designed the game to be set at 7.0*.

#6537 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Or maybe we can put this to rest with an official response here for everyone...
sk8ball what is the angle you recommend setting this game at?

If you’re enjoying it at 6.5* then leave it at 6.5*.

#6550 1 year ago
Quoted from zh2oson:

I don't mean to brag, but I'm in the top 15...

Made my day.

I guess I came off a bit *cough* harsh but I’m going to blame it on the bourbon and just make a general apology to all - sorry for acting like a jerk, Pinside.... please carry on smartly.

#6585 1 year ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

Yup. I took a look and can easily tweak the blade to put some space between the time the first set and the second set make contact.
Related topic: mechanical contacts seem like a big step backward versus the opto-set used on other machines. Still a bit surprising, but then again the much lower cost must be driving that choice. An opto set like Williams A-20207 (including LED, Detector, molded plastics, a few resistors, the PCB, connectors, leaf spring and screws) probably costs $2.50 all in for a volume production line. The machanical blade approach and two screws are probably 30-cents or so. To get an idea of their costing structure, I multiple their COST by 10X to get an idea of what the retail price would have to be increased to pay for the parts.

Vinyl or CDs? Solid state or tubes?

Your choice.

#6596 1 year ago
Quoted from finnflash:

I noticed a washer shoot across the playfield and see I'm missing a screw at the Trex ramp.
So I lift the playfield and find this screw in the cab. Can someone confirm this goes there? And if not where do they even use this type?
[quoted image][quoted image]

The screw that is missing in your pic - the right TRex post/ramp screw - on mine it looks exactly like the screw on the left side of the ramp. A dome phillips head with a star ‘lock washer’ on it.

And as seenev mentioned - you’re missing the black spacer that goes under the clear plastic.

2 weeks later
#6803 1 year ago
Quoted from mcvetyty:

The left outlane is a ball save (labeled escape) - I’d start my troubleshooting with that switch.

Ball save is also on a timer - could be either outlane switch. I’d call stern.

#6821 1 year ago
Quoted from Galvez1978:

Hello friends, can i make question? I want reserve a JP Pro but here in Spain are all sold out, my local distributor have only one Premium in stock, he will receive the Pro in the middle of next year, i must wait for the Pro? Or go to the Premium?
The distributor offered the Premium with 10% of discount, side arts and shaker motor for free.
Thank you so much!


#6847 1 year ago
Quoted from Galvez1978:

I just buy the JP Premium and the shaker motor, but i do not received yet, you know it are any tutorial for install it? Regards?

6 screws and a plug - comes with instructions. You’ll be fine. Super easy.

#6853 1 year ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

Two things I suggest when you are ready to install the shaker motor:
1) get some nylon cable tie-wraps and tie the wiring to the existing wires that run from right to left behind the cash box. It will make the installation much cleaner and prevent any tugging on those cables accidently if you pull the cashbox out. I used 5 tie-wraps.
2) get some BLUE thread-lock liquid. Harbor Frieght sells both RED and BLUE for $2 a bottle. Get the BLUE and put a drop on each thread before you screw the four screws into the cabinet mounted T-Nuts. (Blue is the medium strength, semi-permanent type)
Note1: The Premium is pre-drilled and T-Nuts installed, but not very consistently. I would use a small hammer and tap each of the T-Nuts into the cabinet from underneath before you try and install the shaker motor screws from up top. The provided longer screws that go through the cabinet are 'just' long enough if the T-Nuts are tapped in properly.
Note2: The two self-threading hex cap screws that hold the plastic cover on will be a challenge to get installed, but they WILL work! The brackets are somewhat moveable with some pressure, so just stay at it and it will thread with enough energy applied! Get the first one in, and then push/tug/press the cover front to back to front to meet the second hold and press hard when it starts to line up!

Or that...

#6916 1 year ago
Quoted from mcvetyty:

Oh man! I get rejected from this shot all the time... Wonder if this is my issue? Can you tell me more about how you ground it down? Did you just sand some of the top off? That didn't impact your ability to get a screwdriver inserted?

I taped the surrounding area with blue painters tape and ground the screw head down with a Dremel and a stone bit. Quick vacuum, peel tape, play - no screw removal necessary.

#6935 1 year ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

Don’t see why you would risk a dremel slip and tearing up your playfield, removing the screw is tricky but doesn’t require removing anything else from the playfield if you have the right tools and patience.
Just remove the screw and use a dremel or anything else to sand it down as much as you can while maintaining the integrity of the screw. If you mess it up you can always go to the hardware store and buy a new screw
My ball was just fractionally touching so I didn’t do this at first. I was never getting that many rejects but when I finally decided to fix the screw the shot became much smoother.

“Risk”... speak for yourself. I had no problems with it whatsoever. It was easier to leave the screw in place to make sure I removed enough of the screw-head as opposed to removing it, grinding it, screwing it back in, checking clearance, removing it, grinding it, screwing back in, checking clearance.... you got the idea.

To each their own. It’s a pinball machine.

#6976 1 year ago
Quoted from jlock:

Anyone else have issue of C shot returning SDTM too often? Mine just started doing so and I'm wondering whether there are any fixes short of bending the end of the rail inward.

Take a very thin 1-2mm strip of mylar and stick it directly in the crease of the bend closest to the flippers - the last crease in the ball guide.

On mine the ball was bouncing off the transition crease and going sdtm. Experiment with thin strips of blue painters tape then finalize with mylar cut similarly to the painters tape.


#7043 1 year ago
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:

My autolaunches are getting worse to a point it really pisses me off and I do not know how to fix it.
I realigned the shooter fork, did the washer fix and lifted up the heli ramp a littlebit, since the ball sometimes touches it from below.
Yesterday I took alot of slomo videos. One big problem is the thin metal flap on the right side of the shooter lane. Its enough send the ball into the opposite direction, leading to massive rattling. However sometimes the ball launches perfectly straight and it still wont make it up the ramp. Any ideas?[quoted image][quoted image]

Looks like it’s bouncing up off the shooter fork. Make sure the washer didn’t raise the fork leg above the wood of the shooter lane.

1 week later
#7205 1 year ago
Quoted from NightTrain:

What is this mode???

Hold both flippers in attract and you can select Escape Nublar mode.

1 week later
#7376 1 year ago
Quoted from pingod:

It is a whole replacement head.

Jaw would have to be super narrow to fit the ramp correctly.

#7431 1 year ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Just put a Premium at my house! Reading through the thread, though is this a common complaint that the helipad flasher is too exposed and blinding to the player? It is for me..(exposed lights bug me). I saw one person use a Pteranodon wing to cover it, but has something better been devised?
[quoted image]

Angle it down on the playfield.

1 week later
#7577 1 year ago
Quoted from LoserKid3:

Also a lot of the time when I auto plunge, the ball won't do the 180 turn and just trickles down to a flipper.


#7725 1 year ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

That is exactly what is needed.

Literally 10 seconds with a Dremel and the problem is solved.

2 weeks later
#8145 1 year ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

He does seem to be offset slightly to the left. Is that the same for you guys?[quoted image]


2 weeks later
#8510 12 months ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

His latest is Version 39 and you can get by dropping him a note to get the link.

And please make a donation!!

He spent a shitload of his own time putting this together - show some gratitude.

#8523 12 months ago
Quoted from Dr_Gonzo:

I tried searching but didn't find anything related to the best path to take using the truck. Any advice? Can you skip the number of paddocks? It seems no matter left or right you'll still have the same number.

You can’t skip paddocks.

The color of the dinos insert reflects the dino’s difficulty. Stay on one edge or the other for an easier pathway to the Visitor Center, or jump in the middle and use the perks for the difficult dinos to help you get a better score.

There is a smart missile reward that will ‘Clear Paddock’ and award you with all the rescues and captured dino for the paddock you are on.

Other than the smart missile reward, it’s grind your way through.

Welcome to Jurassic Park.


#8542 12 months ago
Quoted from Dr_Gonzo:

Yes, poor wording on my part. Avoid paddocks is more what I meant. KOTI is only for spinosaurus right?

Yes - you can avoid paddocks based on the direction of the truck when you move to a new paddock, but you cannot skip OVER a paddock.

4 weeks later
#8965 11 months ago
Quoted from pinballwil:

Put some fillings under the ramp just like the wms games from the 90. Now the flow is smooth.


#8982 11 months ago
Quoted from holminone:

Ok. Going nuts. Trying to solve my T-rex acting like a mis-behaving golden retriever. The mouth opto is not registering when the t-rex is in the playing position, but "kind of"does when his head is pointed to the sky. See youtube video I just made.. Suggestions?

Look for a shorted/pinched wire or a bad solder joint. Trace the wires from the dino to the controller board.

#8996 11 months ago
Quoted from trk12fire:

Why is there 2 Helipads and how do you know which to shoot for?


Only one helipad shot.
F50A4C33-FDB7-46D2-BC5C-BB81389C192E (resized).jpeg

#9035 10 months ago
Quoted from ProjektPat:

I am officially part of this club. Picked up a brand new machine from Little Shop of Games on Saturday.

Marshall is awesome - great guy - and congratulations on the new pin.

#9036 10 months ago
Quoted from rickyrooroo:

Before I break something...is this hard to fix? I couldn't find a youtube video or anything in this thread on how to fix this. Thanks for your help.
[quoted image]

Look for the little ‘wheel nut’ on the bottom of the mech - it’ll raise the default position of the up-post. Super simple.

1 week later
#9232 10 months ago
Quoted from Hop721:

Regarding extra balls, I’ll pass on what I have drilled into my own head: First smart missile-hit action button 2 times for +5 rescues-often immediately lights extra ball (if hit, obviously). Second smart missile-hit action button 3 times for extra ball award (if first s.m. was a successful hit). I do it without looking now, which is pretty helpful if in the middle of a multi-ball.

You can also set the free game score to reward an extra ball vice a credit.

1 week later
#9421 10 months ago
Quoted from Soulstoner:

That would kill the spirit of the difficult shot.
Don’t miss!

I agree - risk vs reward

#9503 10 months ago
Quoted from Jakers:

Is this a common thing on the premiums? I swear this happens almost every day. Glass has to come off.
[quoted image]

Never had this happen on mine (NIB first gen premium). Should be an easy fix.

1 week later
#9585 9 months ago
Quoted from LordHumungus:

Hate the dino heads by the slings, gone.


Screwed some trees into the holes.
14A4BC28-0CEB-4B7F-8767-FCBDCC17A362 (resized).jpeg

#9606 9 months ago
Quoted from Animal:

Regarding fan noise, I remember it well with Aerosmith, anyone have feedback on 300W SPIKE PLUG N PLAY QUIET FAN KIT?? Is it reliable? Provide enough air circulation?

I installed PinMonk’s fan. A bit of a pita but worth it. No problems with heat and I’ve had many hours long nights on JP.


#9610 9 months ago
Quoted from Plunger069:

I’m looking for suggestions on what to use for replacement post sleeves. I want the game to play as close as possible to factory. I have seen the following replacement posts.
Marco - black rubber post sleeves
Marco - Super Bands post sleeves
PBL- Perfect Play thin rubber post sleeves

I like the thin but they do play a little different than the stock.... not much, but a little.

#9627 9 months ago
Quoted from adam12hicks:

My Control Room VUK / Post is about 1/8" below the surface of the playfield. Now and again a ball will get stuck there, and then the ball search launches it into the glass like a cannon. Scares the piss out of whoever is playing. I've not messed with this particular component before. Is this common, and is it a relatively simple adjustment to get it back to level with the playfield?

Yes - it’s a threaded stop under the coil with a jam nut to lock it. Takes 5 min tops. You’ll be mad at yourself for waiting so long to fix it.


#9634 9 months ago
Quoted from Animal:

Just updated the code to the enhanced fan edit 1.03 code yesterday. It is next level, recommend and pretty easy to do.
[quoted image]

timlah79 ’s modded assets are absolutely unbelievable. Please donate to his efforts.

#9713 9 months ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

How do you earn a fossil for the Feed Trex mode? I thought it was from 2 SJPs, but I haven’t been awarded one the last couple of times I’ve hit the second jackpot.

You can’t.


#9716 9 months ago
Quoted from DMVPin:

I’ve had an issue come up a couple times lately where the left ramp would initiate a paddock mode and the video would come on but the up post would not come up. It works 100% the rest of the time. Wondering if this has Happened to anyone else.

If you hit both flippers soon enough when the paddock is started - essentially canceling/skipping the video - the up post will not come up. The post pauses gameplay while the video plays and explains what’s going on. If you skip it, you also cancel the post.

#9757 9 months ago
Quoted from PeterG:

Mine has the latest movie version, and you can swap, never felt the urge to swap back to the original. The movie scenes and call outs are so much extra. You get dragged in that movie immediately. The call outs are just great.....where is Nedry....check the vending machines Go watch JP the original movie and you will see so much that is in the code. Still awesome. And in my code the events on the screen are in perfect sync with the events you play. TRex multiball, raise the gate, even the end sequence with amber and mr DNA. All perfect.

^ This ^

#9840 9 months ago
Quoted from Gorgar666:

Anyone here have superbands on there slings? 2.5 feels really tight....

I never use anything other than rubber on slings for this exact reason.

#9858 9 months ago
Quoted from Scrimmbo:

Got our jurassic park pro swapped out of a location recently after being there for about 2 years. Cleaning things up and found this under the slingshot star posts. I knew we had some bubbling around some posts here and there, but goddamn. What do yall think I should do to keep this from getting worse. I was thinking clear nail polish or something.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Are you using poly or silicone rings (or anything other than standard rubber)?

2 weeks later
#10079 8 months ago
Quoted from Animal:So, I installed the fan edit code, specifically, copied it to a SD card and it works perfectly. The original code on the machine is 1.01 and Id like to upgrade just to see what the Stern code looks like. Do I have to install it via USB? Once I do, will I see the Stern code or the Fan edit code with the fan edit code on the SD card? Do I have to put Stern's code on a separate SD card? Id like to be able to switch back and forth and was able to switch back and for with Aerosmith as I had different songs loaded on different cards.

Quoted from PoMC:

Download the latest Stern SD image from their site and burn that to a card. Then you can swap between that original Stern and the edited version.

^^ this ^^

I use two cards. One with the latest Stern code and one with the modified. Swapping between the two is as easy as swapping the cards.

#10152 8 months ago
Quoted from mpdpvdpin:

There is a skill shot at the control room that you can only get if you plunge.

There are a few short-plunge skill shots.

#10164 8 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

While you can use either the auto or manual plunger if you want the ball to go up the Heli ramp and into the right return lane, only the manual plunger allows you to short plunge the ball (it doesn't go up the heli ramp) and then go for one of the various secret skill shots
- "C" shot
- the amber target in the pops
- "O" shot
These along with the 2 different combo skills shots gives you lots of different shots to try for when plunging the ball

Short plunging also allows you to not qualify the playfield - especially helpful in Escape Nublar.

1 month later
#10393 7 months ago
Quoted from unlockpinball:

I think this is a scam: Website, Zendohyd is selling the Stern Jurassic Park Topper for $96.16 shipped!! This is what the site lists: Stern Jurassic Park Pinball Topper IN STOCK READY TO SHIP! 502-7111-00
Sent and email inquiry to them and no reply.

Decimal is in the wrong spot $961.60

#10420 7 months ago
Quoted from PeterG:

I have a love hate relation with my JP. It hink it looks awesome, mechs are great, code seems great, theme is really good. But.....I just cant get the shots. I hear all kinds of people saying this is the greatest, but when it does not shoot well. Any others have this issue? I tried all kinds of playfield angles, other rubbers, other flipper power, I just reach 2 maybe 3 paddock. Only once made it to VC. Getting frustrated.

Quoted from Green-Machine:

I feel exactly as you feel. Maybe we should compare build dates…. I’m puzzled

Quoted from tominator:

I an going to spend some time trying to dial it in better.
Definitely a tough shooter... like Houdini.

Ahem..... 5 balls per game.
Adjust the guides that feed the flippers.
Adjust the shooter lane.
Adjust the screw on the ramp shot.
Test your switches and adjust as necessary.
Go back to real rubber on the flippers (if you changed to poly or silicone).

1 week later
#10499 6 months ago

Didn’t even make it to VC.... that bonus would have been huge. +500M Raptor tri-ball. Love this game.

Edit: one ‘death save’

3ECE2B6B-92A1-4F28-B323-F4847D4BE1A5 (resized).jpegABB0C69B-C621-4518-AB7C-89EE342EB818 (resized).jpeg

1 week later
#10601 6 months ago
Quoted from Lucxor:

Here is a picture. I read somewhere in this topic that people with a premium had problem with the Trex not catching the ball and use isolation tape so I try it on these and it works since then.
[quoted image]

What people were doing was putting tape across the bottom 1/3rd of the opto opening forcing the opto to read higher so fast movers didn’t hop over it.

2 weeks later
#10775 5 months ago
Quoted from Oleboy:

Has anyone else had an issue with black lines of dirt or something in the inlanes? I keep cleaning it but it comes back after a couple of games. Seems like some sort of residue keeps pooling where the ramps drop the ball at the top of the inlane and then runs down the inlane and front of the flippers in perfect lines. Is this normal? I will add a picture as soon as it builds up again.

Yep - switch to white rubber.

You can go poly or silicone but I don’t like those on anything bigger than 1”. It feels to me like the slings and flippers should be old-school rubber. I like the way the real rubber plays on the lower playfield. That’s how I set my games up.

2 weeks later
#10867 5 months ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

Two at once is a different issue. Is there anything blocking the trough eject, like a protector edge or anything else slightly in the way? Have you inspected the coil bracket itself to make sure it has not come loose? Have you checked/adjusted the trough eject power setting? It's possible that it tries to eject a ball, and for some reason fails to have enough power to succeed, so it tries again because the shooter lane switch reports no ball present, this time with a second ball that just happens to stay loaded on top of the other, which causes a second eject to be tried... this time pushing both out.
Check the eject coil brackets and power settings. The coil should not move if you grab it by hand and try to move it around. The trough setting should be at least 200-210.


#10918 5 months ago
Quoted from king_pin:

So what am Iooking for on the coilstop?

The nub will be loose on a bad coil stop. It’s not always blatantly obvious but replacing them is cheap and easy.

1 week later
#10973 4 months ago
Quoted from zr11990:

I already adjusted the outlines to their most narrow point. I did put silicone rubbers on it, I hated those black rubbers

Your game will play better with real rubber on the flippers. Like MrMikeman said, silicone rubbers are bouncy and introduce more spin.

1 week later
#11054 4 months ago

Eagle beat me to it …. deleted

2 weeks later
#11193 4 months ago
Quoted from embryon:

Hi guys was installing the tilt graphics ramp and rail accent decals and I noticed this metal shim flapping in the breeze. It runs along the shooter rail right to the entrance of the helipad ramp. To me it looks like it should be like this to improve the ball transition into the ramp but would like confirmation please.
[quoted image][quoted image]

It’s supposed to be like that.

2 weeks later
#11374 3 months ago
Quoted from craif:

Hi Dinosaur Hunters. I've got a mystery on my hands and I'm hoping you experts can help me out.
I'm not a wizard or anything, but I've got dozens of games on a single JP (Pro) several paddocks deep with lots of extra rescues/side objectives along the way and tons with scores 200mil + and several above 300mil, and yet I've never triggered the raptor multiball. Not once. Nor have I seen anyone else do it. Am I missing something obvious or is something broken on this machine?
The mechanics at this location are able to handle obvious issues like a dead flipper, but for more esoteric stuff they usually need someone who knows how the game is supposed to play to point it out to them. I usually end up being that person, but as I've never played it anywhere else I've got nothing to compare it to.
There are various signs the ball is being detected when it goes into or through the raptor pen. Flashing lights and the sounds of dangling wires and angry dinosaurs. Some games I've sat there blasting it in over and over 20+ times including several hits to the standup and though the dinosaurs are very angry, nothing happens. I know it takes takes multiple shots to bring the fence down but this seems ridiculous. Even if I didn't know it was a thing, it seems like it should have happened randomly by now.
I don't know for certain what code it's on but they updated it pretty recently so I think it's the newest.
Any thoughts on what I'm doing wrong or what thing might be broken given that it does seem to know the ball is in the pen appreciated!

Go into switch test and make sure all the raptor pen switches are working.

2 months later
#12014 33 days ago
Quoted from Shredso:

I'm not sure if this is applies only to the Premium/LE, but my right ramp shot doesn't consistently feed to the upper right flipper. This makes the 3rd skill shot impossible. It was like this out of the box. Video for reference.
Any ideas?

Loosen the helical wireform and get the ball exit closer to the flipper ball guide - doesn’t have to be much to make a difference.

#12043 30 days ago

Alt-trans - I figured it was appropriate with the movie code.

C1AD5806-F585-49AB-ACDE-8D038B7A1A6C (resized).jpeg
#12055 29 days ago
Quoted from baxelrod:

While looking through the service menu, I saw that there are a number of different install options under Utilities -> Installs. Namely:
* Extra-Easy
* Easy
* Medium
* Hard
* Extra-Hard
* 3 Ball
* 5 Ball
* Competition
* Director's Cut
* Home Play
* Novelty
* Add-A-Ball
* Factory
Does anyone know what specific features the Extra-Easy to Extra-Hard difficulty levels change? Also, what is Directors Cut, and Novelty? And what does Home Play set?
Through a little searching on these forums I learned that you can "stack" multiple of these installs. (For example 5-Ball and Extra-Easy). And if there are settings in common, the last installed takes precedence.

Usually the ‘easy’ settings spot shots (start with 2 of the 3 map lights lit) and require less shots to complete modes as well as longer mode timers and ball savers. There’s usually a description in the manual of what the selection does.

Best way to find out what they do is select one and play it. Easy enough to set back if you don’t like it.

#12062 29 days ago
Quoted from John_I:

I've tried them all over the years and I use real red rubber on my flippers. It works the best for me.

Same - all the whiz bang colors silicone poly low bounce bla bla bla. Red or black (regular) rubber is my preference as well.

#12063 29 days ago
Quoted from lypkiek:

Question 1 - Can someone direct me to posts on how to right this or how to calibrate T-rex head? I'm sure they are on Pinside but could not find.

Question 2 - I'm bummed about this. While trying to pull playfield out to inspect the back of Trex head I pulled right off rails and the playfield was resting on components under play field for a minute ... not good, rookie mistake. When I got it back on the rails and tested the raptor pen now does not move up and down (it worked fine prior), hits register but gate not moving down. Will not move in test menu either. Any thoughts on where to start on this man made issue? I can take pics if needed.

1 - Look in the key posts on the JP Premium thread - lots of TRex adjustment info there. In a nutshell, you’re going to have to loosen the TRex mech from the back and adjust it down from there. Not difficult.

2 - Look for broken wires or unseated connectors.

1 week later
#12175 21 days ago
Quoted from timlah79:

BUMP since it looks like my question got lost in the mix...


Sometimes the callouts and videos get stacked and backed up but yes, I’ve had this happen before. There’s also a bug in the “shoot the set trap targets” callout being queued one rescue before the actual set trap targets are available - happens to me on the Spinosaur paddock mostly that I’ve noticed. I imagine it’s a bug as well.

1 week later
#12343 8 days ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

So I'm sending my stepper motor driver board and T-Rex assembly with stepper motor back to stern for troubleshooting repair as it's not moving at all horizontally.
I'm almost positive if it's anything it's the driver board as the bipolar motor windings look good ohms rating is holding constant at around 9.7 ohms on each coil
Took out the stepper board and flipped it over and found this on the back side of the 48 volt input to the board and also the capacitor... When plugged into the system it's showing 48 volts on a multimeter and no really clear way of testing the capacitor other than starting out at one value and going to Infinity when the probes are placed on it aside from desoldering it from the board...
So what does this look like to you? is this just some sort of soldering residue or could this be the result of a flash spark that shot through the pcb from a 48 volt over current short?
Thanks all for looking
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

It’s either solvent from flux removal (should only have been alcohol) and not likely to cause a failure.

Or it’s a fried solder run under the laminate. My guess is something on the 48v line shorted (capacitor?? Though that cap looks pretty good) and fried that run.

1 week later
#12355 1 day ago
Quoted from purbeast:

Do you basically have to remove the whole rail above it in order to move it?

‘Unscrew’ the post from the playfield - the hole is tight (that’s what she said) and the threads on the post bite into the wood so if you unscrew it from the playfield as if it were screwed in, it comes out a lot easier.

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