(Topic ID: 248582)

Jurassic Park (Stern 2019 & 30th) Owners Club. Welcome! To Jurassic park.....

By CoolCatPinball

4 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

17 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #326 Rules tips and info on some wizard modes Posted by sk8ball (4 years ago)

Post #365 Printable Instruction cards for the pin Posted by PinballZach (4 years ago)

Post #366 The first Full Unboxing Video Posted by ZMeny (4 years ago)

Post #425 Feature Matrix of Pro vs Premium vs LE Posted by CoolCatPinball (4 years ago)

Post #468 How to qualify control room modes Posted by jonesjb (4 years ago)

Post #2298 Keith Elwin explains JP rules Posted by MRG (4 years ago)

Post #3040 Raptor target not registering or "ghost" registering, possible fix Posted by Jesder (4 years ago)

Post #5270 make the jeep work well Posted by CoolCatPinball (3 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#9342 3 years ago
Quoted from madmack:

Hello! I wanted to ask you, I wanted to change the original 8 ohm speakers of the PRO for better ones that I have at home, but they are 4 ohm. When installed ... both 8's and 4's sound better, clearer, at 8 ohm setting. Has it happened to you?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Weird, but dangerous to run 4 ohm speakers on an 8 ohm input unless they are run in series. I’m assuming that, if there is an impedance switch or separate speaker inputs, this is not the case. It may be ok at lower volumes, but could fry the board if you turn it up too loud.

1 week later
#9423 3 years ago
Quoted from ScottyC:

best thing I've found is to activate smart missile during a multiball... then with one of the other free ball(s) hit the truck the other direction before making the shot towards the target , or just send all the balls into the pops and hope for a hit, hehe.

Yes, this. Or if no multiball, I will shoot the spinner and have it drop down into the pots. It doesn't drop down all the time, nor does it hit the target all the time when it does, but much safer than trying the shot! Probably somewhere in the 5-10% success rate area...

#9524 3 years ago

Found this dilophosaurus from a Chinese seller on eBay. Not the best feedback, but I took the chance anyway and it actually arrived intact in less than 2 weeks! Only $12 shipped. I had a 3” one that I wanted to put down by the spinner, but the family thought this one was cooler. Nothing spectacular, but a cheap and easy add! They are still selling as of now if anyone else is interested...

5915CAF2-C935-4A5D-B5E4-E2161510306A (resized).jpeg5915CAF2-C935-4A5D-B5E4-E2161510306A (resized).jpeg
#9531 3 years ago
Quoted from DMVPin:

Anyone else get a lot of balls stuck at the top of the play field mostly by the ambers? Any advice?

All good suggestions and very possible issues here, but I’d start with cleaning and/or replacing balls first if you haven’t already. I had some infrequent hang up issues that have all but gone away since I changed balls.

#9541 3 years ago
Quoted from RGAires:

Look very nice... Link of it?

Here’s a link to the seller I bought from, but it looks like there are a few selling this.
ebay.com link: Realistic Jurassic Dilophosaurus Dinosaur Toy Educational Model Party Gift Kids
I got mine for under $10. If you add it to your watch list, they should send you a reduced price after a day or 2, but it’s cheap enough either way if you don’t want to wait!
Then get a sheet of this -
Polycarbonate Clear Plastic Sheet 12" X 18" X 0.0625" (1/16"), Shatter Resistant, Easier to Cut, Bend, Mold than Plexiglass. For VEX Robots, Hobby, DIY, Industrial, Crafts. Plexiglas Glass Replacement https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07MQTDF4R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_VHS21K0WMYER1VN3J0BH
It can easily be cut with heavy duty/shop scissors or a rotary tool, etc. It can also be drilled, heated and bent when needed. Good to have around for future adds.
I just cut a little platform, drilled a hole, and glued the dinosaur on. The tail sits on the very back plastic.
Cheap, and we think it looks pretty awesome. Good luck!

#9571 3 years ago
Quoted from pterofractal:

Thank you! That does appear to be a different approach, I might bring the included screws to home depot and see if I can find smaller diameter heads. If I do and it works I'll post the part information here!

Another (more expensive) option is to use Cliffy’s protectors. The JP set comes with carbon ramp flaps that stick down (no screws). Remove the stock steel flaps and just stick these down. Makes a fairly noticeable difference imo.

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#9579 3 years ago
Quoted from embryon:

Sorry buy can you confirm, did you actually remove the s/steel metal flaps altogether and replaced to with the carbon. I know thats what you wrote but wanna be sure. Is your approach what is required for these cliffys btw

Quoted from Green-Machine:

I can’t Speak for a kidkoffee but that is what I did .....works great. ( I removed the steel flaps)

Yep. First time getting carbon fiber protectors from Cliff, but I trust him and these work great so far.

#9617 3 years ago
Quoted from mpdpvdpin:Welcome back! JP is an amazing game but IMDN is Elwins masterpiece if you ask me. Definitely get your hands on a premium and you won’t be disappointed. I honestly think it’s the best pin ever made. Can’t wait to see what he does with...Godzilla? I skipped AIQ, Stern rushed him on that one and it shows. Plus...I’m not a superhero guy.

Man...that really makes me want IMDN even more. Wife and kids vetoed me on it and we went with JP instead. Awesome game anyway. You own both in a home setting and prefer Maiden. Are you a fan, or is the game layout just better to you, or both?

#9700 3 years ago
Quoted from gaubster:

I have a set of these carbon fiber JP pieces for the ramps, but haven't installed them yet. I'm a newbie as this is my first machine, but I haven't figured out the easiest way to get the screws out of the metal ramp entry piece. Did you have to take the wire form off to access the screws? Thanks!

Pretty sure I got mine out with a long shank screwdriver. Try carefully and slowly. If not, pulling the wire form is not bad at all on this pin. The carbon fiber flaps are great btw!

#9702 3 years ago
Quoted from Slogan1111:

Post works fine. I went through the menus. Nothing there that I noticed. I'll need to investigate the switch, when I get a moment tomorrow. Thanks all.

Just curious...Are the truck direction arrows (just below truck) changing along with the position of the truck? If not, I would think it’s definitely an opto issue.

#9704 3 years ago
Quoted from Slogan1111:

Post works fine. I went through the menus. Nothing there that I noticed. I'll need to investigate the switch, when I get a moment tomorrow. Thanks all.

My guess is that the metal “fan” piece that attaches to the Jeep post has come loose or fallen off. Try to gently pull the Jeep out before lifting the playfield, or it might fall out. It attaches with a single set screw and needs to be centered in the slot between the black posts on the opto. If not, you will get exactly what is happening to you. I know this bc, in a hurry as usual, I put that piece on upside down after changing the rubbers on the Jeep lol...

#9740 3 years ago
Quoted from Slogan1111:

Fails switch test. The fan in the opto is positioned well. I guess the board is bad? Can I get one somewhere?

Good question. I quick searched it and can’t find one anywhere. Maybe somebody else will chime in here. I’d make sure the 4-pin connector on the board itself and the 10-pin connector on the big board to the left of it are seated properly and not skipping a pin. Make sure a wire hasn’t slipped out or got loose at one of the connectors too. Maybe try playing with the positioning of the fan? Other than that, I’d contact Stern support and go from there.

#9783 3 years ago
Quoted from Slogan1111:

Well this is strange. With the pf up, I can get the opto to register the switch, as I lower it, in switch test still, the right ball, which is my problem, beeps like the switch registers, but the truck is dead center, so no switch should register. After that, with pf back down, back to the same, left truck facing not registering the switch. It's like something is shorting it. So basically it works with pf up. Doesn't when down. Wth? But wth is triggering it when I lower the pf?

Very strange. Have you tried jiggling wires while testing? When the pf is up, the fan is pointing straight down and away from the opto as well, correct? Is there a lot of vertical play in the truck shaft (like 1/4” or more)? Can you post a pic?

#9788 3 years ago
Quoted from Slogan1111:

The connection seems odd as well. When the pf is up, the truck naturally takes a center position so fan is pointing up. About an 8th inch of play. Just enough for smooth truck rotation. If i unplug the connection & lightly plug it in on an angle, the switch test beeps, like its registering left face truck. The truck is center. That's why I'm thinking a short? But why, how. Nothing around not much involved here. I can manually block off the opto switches and it works fine. All this with pf up. Wish i could examine with the pf down. Is it possible the opto is reflected back off the shiny fan? Thus not triggering the switch?

Yeah man...if everything is set up properly, my guess is that it’s more likely the opto itself than a short in a wire, but anything is possible. I used to work with photo cells and both sides definitely had to be lined up perfectly on those or you had problems. Is there a chance one side of the black opto is slightly askew or dirty? With a standard photo cell you could adjust the sensitivity, and ambient lighting and reflections were definitely a factor when setting. If that’s true with these opto boards, it would make sense to me that it acts differently when the pf is up or down if the sensitivity is slightly off. But I don’t remember seeing any adjustment screw on these and have no idea if there’s an option in the menu somewhere. I’d call Stern if an expert doesn’t chime in here. Very curious now to see what turns out to be the issue here. GL.

#9835 3 years ago
Quoted from Animal:

Need a little help with the truck. It wasn't spinning as freely as it used to so I removed it, cleaned it, applied a touch of lub and reinstalled. Now a truck hit doesn't register. I reseated the little board connection below it, but still it is not registering.
Has anyone else run in to this? Any idea's on a fix?

Make sure you didn’t accidentally install the lower “fan” piece upside down when you put it back together. Easy to do...

Quoted from Slogan1111:

Continuality is fine.
Yeah. Checking this with the pf down is impossible. It needs to be on. I'm not in the mood for a coin door zapping. Lol. I just need a known working board or opto, and take it from there. So where to get one?

If it actually is a wire short, carefully jiggling the wires with the pf up and in test mode should confirm. Continuity, same thing. Must jiggle the wire to know for sure. No need to have the pf lowered to test this.

#9847 3 years ago
Quoted from Slogan1111:

Jiggling the wire doesn't trip it. Plugging it out & in does. That's why I resoldered connections on the opto board. Continuality is good between the connectors. Hopefully it's not a problem at the node board?

Ok. If you’ve determined it’s not a wire short, and it is set up properly, than it would have to be the board/opto imo. See pics below. Small gap when fan is out of opto. If not, maybe something bent/mounting issue? Fan is closer to side of opto marked “S” on top. This shouldn’t matter, but last ditch...If all is well here, I’d open a ticket with Stern and/or call them for a board. GL.

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#9866 3 years ago

I have Cliffy's in the key areas, but Pinball Life and others sell various washers now for this purpose as well. They are clear silicone. https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-700-0070-00-70
I am going to order some to try out, but have not used them yet. No idea if they work any better than hardware store washers, but they are only $.50 ea and I like that they are clear...Just make sure you order some other "necessities" with them to justify the shipping, or those washers become a lot more expensive lol!

#9868 3 years ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

I think those PBL washers (and Cliffy's carbon fiber ones) are great to protect the playfield from the base on a pounding post, but if the intention is to also cover some or all of the already damaged paint, then a slightly larger diameter fender washer could help, as long as not TOO large that it would interact with the ball itself.

Gotcha. Funny I just typed in washers on PBL and fender washers showed up there too, so apparently others agree. Theirs are hard “indestructible” plastic though. Crappy to have to deal with this. I used a heat gun to smooth out some potential problem areas before I put down the Cliffy’s. Hope I don’t have to use these things too.

https://www.pinballlife.com/clear-petg-fender-washers.html

2 years later
#17418 7 months ago

Your truck is probably loose on the post. I had to take mine apart recently and found the post hole in the metal bracket that the Jeep mounts on worn and slipping. I aligned it, cranked it down, and used Loctite…but assume a new bracket is in my near future. Hold the Newton ball assembly and try to turn the jeep to see if there’s slop. This is how I noticed my issue. If you have to take it out, make sure when you reassemble, that you attach the spinner part below the playfield so that it rides in the slot of the opto board.

Quoted from bananatino:

Tried to search, but no luck…
Any idea how to fix a truck that navigates the wrong way?
[quoted image]

#17423 7 months ago
Quoted from ATLpb:

I'm here for the 30th anniversary gossip, but I also have this issue. Little things like this have prevented me from buying multiple JP for locations. If I could reliably solve this truck Newton thing that could change my mind into adding JP's because it is a great game and earns very well.

I hear ya. The truck takes a beating. I’ll probably try tacking it on the bracket or using JB Weld or something next time. Pinball Life has the part for $7…but then you have to pay shipping as well and I have no confidence that it will last any longer than the first one.

#17427 7 months ago
Quoted from jrcmlc:

What does it look like when it's "wrong" vs "right"? Be good to have pictures of that like with the leaning raptor just for reference?

Nose of the truck should be facing the direction of the lit map navigation arrow…Here’s a pic of the bracket. Only one way for the post to fit unless it’s routed out like mine was.

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