(Topic ID: 248582)

Jurassic Park (Stern 2019 & 30th) Owners Club. Welcome! To Jurassic park.....

By CoolCatPinball

4 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

17 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #326 Rules tips and info on some wizard modes Posted by sk8ball (4 years ago)

Post #365 Printable Instruction cards for the pin Posted by PinballZach (4 years ago)

Post #366 The first Full Unboxing Video Posted by ZMeny (4 years ago)

Post #425 Feature Matrix of Pro vs Premium vs LE Posted by CoolCatPinball (4 years ago)

Post #468 How to qualify control room modes Posted by jonesjb (4 years ago)

Post #2298 Keith Elwin explains JP rules Posted by MRG (4 years ago)

Post #3040 Raptor target not registering or "ghost" registering, possible fix Posted by Jesder (4 years ago)

Post #5270 make the jeep work well Posted by CoolCatPinball (3 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#7038 3 years ago
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:

Unfortunately the cost varies GREATLY. If you have someone locally, who isn't adverse to doing small jobs, it can be quite reasonable. If you need to ship parts back and forth, it can get expensive. On the high end you could spend almost $400. On the low end $150. My local guys do amazing work for $150 as long as I pick a color they have in stock, or bring them the powder of my choosing.

Mine is usually $2-300 but I also do shooter housing, hinges, cd, loli rails, and sometimes aprons and habitrails.

#7048 3 years ago

Dukes of Hazzard style auto launch! Yeee haaaw

1 week later
#7224 3 years ago
Quoted from Galvez1978:

Wax i bought "Blitz Wax" but i don't know what it's "Napha" Can you send a link please, do not find anything about it.
About the balls i bought ultra shiny balls, i don't know were i read these are the best, and you must change the originals for these balls, it's correct or i'm wrong?
Thank you so much.

55665-01-1000 (resized).jpg55665-01-1000 (resized).jpg
#7273 3 years ago
Quoted from chubtoad13:

I just received my side armor in the mail and was surprised the red behind the TRex is a mirrored finish. It doesn’t look better or worse imo, but I thought I would post pics here as it wasn’t what I was expecting. From a straight on picture it looks flat red.
[quoted image][quoted image]

How easy would it be to disassemble for powder coating? How is the inner lining attached? Will it get damaged if you remove it?

#7293 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I am considering doing this to take mine upstairs (just to lighten things some). Was wondering what all is involved to remove the backbox?

A few hinge bolts and cat6 cables, it's the easiest to remove a head as it's ever been. What a pain it was back in the Williams/Bally days with all those darn connections to remove and remember what went where. If you want an idea, just take out your translite, fold your display down, and look at what travels from the head to the cab. That's all it is.

2 weeks later
#7494 3 years ago
Quoted from JMCFAN:

While I wait for my Prem.... side blades? Sterns....or one of the other options?

I am currently struggling with this same conundrum as well. I really think the best choice for me is to stick with the cartoony look of the PF and rear panel artwork and pay to ship the ones from RR over here. I don't think the photo real ones really jive with the art theme and for me blades should compliment the art if at all possible.

#7501 3 years ago
Quoted from JMCFAN:

Which ones are you looking at? I have a set of the Stern ones on order with my game....but can cancel....

For my premium, I'm looking at these that match the blue theme of the lower PF and back panel:

https://www.retrorefurbs.com/shop/jurassic-park-stern-pro-pinball-sideblades/

#7502 3 years ago

Exactly why I just bought a new one. It's the same price as used and they deliver it brand new un-played directly to my house...

#7508 3 years ago
Quoted from JMCFAN:

Nice...the "sunset" ones are cool too... I didn't look....how much is shipping?

Like $30ish

2 weeks later
#7829 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Just got notice from my distributor that JP Premiums are hitting his dock today. Paid my balance, and the pin (along with topper and shaker) should be on it's way to me later today.
I'm giddy!

Good news! Hopefully that means mine should be landing soon as well as I'm second on the list for the next batch with my distro.

1 week later
#7972 3 years ago
Quoted from dimthedaylights:

Found where the screw was from: used the manual. Under T. rex jaw

Locktite FTW!

#7982 3 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

a lot cheaper...

I can't play in the dark, it hurts my eyes. Maybe I'm just old. About the only reason I'd entertain something like Pinstadium is for UV for my GB to light up GITD rubbers and my proton stream mod. Still having a hard time with the $300 price tag though. $150 is a more digestible price point for me. I might try to rig up something DIY with a dedicated uv light strip if I can drum up the effort at some point.

1 week later
#8309 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

As some of you may know, I created a couple of Barbasol can mods for the DE Jurassic Park. Around the same time, a couple of versions were being developed for the new Stern JP. One was interactive with exposed vials by flashinstinct and another was a flasher cover by Mezel (I developed and sold both styles for DE JP). Unfortunately, I know that @flashistinct had a limited run and is no longer producing his version. As a new owner of the Stern Jurassic Park, I wanted to work this element into the game somehow. As a courtesy to flashinstinct , before I started down this path I first communicated with him to see if he was okay with me designing a mod that was similar to his, and he gave me the thumbs up.
While I've been thinking about the mod for a couple of weeks now, I finally started modelling today. I wanted to do something smaller in scale so that it wasn't visually overpowering, yet still representative of the Barbasol can in the movie, and proportional to the real can. My idea ended up being to replace the Control Room dome flasher with the Barbasol can while maintaining the OEM flasher to illuminate its exposed vials.
I just finished 3D printing prototype alpha (i.e. my very first trial print of my first design), so I wanted to share it with everyone. This version is not the final, but just a proof of concept.
Based upon this trial, here are the updates I'm going to make to the model:
- Increase size so that diameter is the same as the hole in the plastic
- Add some additional height at the based so that the threads are visible and not completely hidden under the plastic
- This will make the overall model 1cm taller than what is pictured
- Add tab to base so that it will be mounted to the same screw as the current dome is
- Print the vials in a semi-translucent chartreuse color (filament is on order) so that they actually have the appearance of illuminating and will be close to the color of the liquid in the movie
- Can abnormalities will be fixed
- Barbasol label will be applied
- I may (or may not) experiment with doing something with the inside of the base to make it less illuminated - man that flasher is bright
I'll be making myself one of these mods regardless, but before moving forward too much I wanted to gauge interest from the JP ownership group. I know some of you already have the flashinstinct original and some have purchased the Mezel version too, so this mod wouldn't be for you. However, with the recent new wave of JP owners I thought their might be a market for a Barbasol can with exposed vials. My estimated selling price will be around $45 including US shipping (international shipping will be on a per quote basis). My target date to have the mod finalized and ready to show/sell is within the next couple of weeks. I'm not taking pre-orders or requiring any payments at this time, but please let me know if you might be interested. When the time comes, I will offer these "on demand", so there will be no limits set on the quantities I will be selling.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Agreed with too visually overpowering on some of the previous versions. I'd be interested depending on how it looks finalized.

1 week later
#8411 3 years ago
Quoted from JMCFAN:

Have a deposit on next run of Prems.....early Feb....

Still waiting on mine as well

#8489 3 years ago
Quoted from Limdul:

Hello, new JP owner and overall pinball newbie here. I'm about 300 games in and my one of my supply drop decals fell off onto the playfield. I tried to remove it by hand, but it's fairly stuck. Any suggestions to remove it without ruining the playfield?
[quoted image]

A quick spray from an upside-down air duster will freeze the adhesive and allow you to very easily remove it if it's that stuck. It will also serve to save the adhesive for reapplication. Then clean the target and reapply.

2 weeks later
#8638 3 years ago
Quoted from JMCFAN:

Where did you order with that quick of delivery...?? told sold until next run in Feb...

Ditto! Who has them in stock?

#8640 3 years ago
Quoted from JMCFAN:

my Prem has been on order since late Sept.....with a reputable dealer hmmm,,,,

Same, August 21st here...

1 week later
#8794 3 years ago
Quoted from rapidflipper:

My game arrived yesterday, and I am working to install the cliffy protectors before playing. I’m stumped by both the ball eject protector and removal of the post. I’m not able to remove the screws which appear to go through the ball eject protector. And for the flipper post, the nut is blocked by the third flipper. Any advice or feedback on how to install these?[quoted image][quoted image]

It's hammer time. Lightly tap on the bottom of the posts and they'll come up. Installation is the reverse of removal. If you can't get to the nut under the third flipper mech, just remove the mech. It's only an Allan bolt to loosen it from the shaft and a few 1/4" hex head screws to drop the plate.

2 weeks later
#9094 3 years ago
Quoted from embryon:

Can you provide some photos as I'm considering buying a set. Also is the graphics painted on or etched or a decal of sorts. Thanks

Pretty sure it's a red insert attached to the back just like the SWLE is. I was looking into getting those and PC'ing them but I can PC the entire game for the same price as the new side rails.

#9123 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Here is the best price delivered I could find on the Amber Collection Dilophosaurus. Be sure to pick the correct shipping when ordering since "Media Mail" is the default, but you cannot ship via this method per their bold type instructions (you must pick Priority Mail or greater). For me, total shipped with sales tax (which they shouldn't actually have charged) ended up being $46.08.
https://collectorcave.shop/products/jurassic-park-amber-collection-dilophosaurus-6-inch-scale-action-figure
BTW: Not sure why, but looks like Mattel stuck the East Dock sign in a pile of dinosaur droppings.
[quoted image]

It's mud from the scene in the movie. Remember when Nedry is trying to make it to the dock it is pouring rain.

#9231 3 years ago
Quoted from jacksparrow0112:

First time pin owner here. I picked up a lightly used JP pro last April and my family and I have spent quarantine playing it a ton. I believe it had around 500 plays when I bought it second hand for $5,000, and it now has 4,500 lifetime plays.
Anyway, we are planning to move from Indiana to Colorado this summer and I am curious what the best way to move a pin would be. Any advice from those who have moved their pins would be great. Would I be better off selling my JP pro prior to the move, and then purchasing another used one out in Colorado? Curious to find out the best way to end up with this amazing game at our new home out west.
Thanks in advance for your advice!
Kevin

Um, pack it up and move it with all your other belongings...? Am I missing something? It's really very simple to remove the balls, throw a blanket on it, fold down the head and shrink wrap it.

2 weeks later
#9469 3 years ago

New Premium run pushed back to Mid to late March now...

#9477 3 years ago
Quoted from JMCFAN:

Where you see that..?

In the email from my dealer.

#9487 3 years ago
Quoted from Syco54645:

Did stern ever get the playfield issues figured out. Wife wants me to order a premium from the next run.

Hope so, I've got one coming in the next batch!

1 month later
#10002 3 years ago
Quoted from adam12hicks:

Wanted to share my powder coated hardware I just got back. Was shooting for a dino skin look and I’m super pleased with how it came out
[quoted image][quoted image]

What brand and color is that? Looks like a 2 stage with a clear over it maybe? What sheen is the clear?

1 week later
#10052 3 years ago

I got an ETA of 4/14 to the distros and then to us from there.

#10056 3 years ago

If anyone is looking for a shooter, tt your distro because they are landing now. Mine just arrived yesterday.

#10058 3 years ago
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:

they are still making guardians?

According to their website, it's still active.

1 month later
#10362 2 years ago
Quoted from Averhoeven:

I give up. I've been trying to install the Cliff protectors for a while now. The left shooter protector has me stumped. I know you have to tap out the screws from the underside, but the top one can't come all the way out because of the guide rail. I can't, for the life of me, figure out how to loosen or shift that guard rail enough for me to lift that screw out (and eventually get it back in).
Also, noticed this when putting on my Tower ramp. Any thoughts on what to do about this?
[quoted image]

I just put mine on and it went fine. It took a little leverage on the ball guide to get it up above the surface of the PF but it wasn't horrible or anything.

#10367 2 years ago
Quoted from Averhoeven:

Is there any way to loosen up that rail? I'm putting ALOT of pressure on it and it won't even bend at all. I'm not a small or weak guy either. It's there a way to lift it some? Get that little peg that's a bit further back out some? Anything to add some mobility?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Yes, all of the ball guides have attachments under the pf or on top attached to other hardware. Just follow it back and unscrew the nut holding it down Not much different then unscrewing the PF support rail to get the right side on.

#10369 2 years ago
Quoted from Averhoeven:

And now I feel like a moron. I decided to remove the post that is in the outlane to make sure I had as much room as possible. And then realized that the screw that has a nut on it down below holds the guide and not the post. I kept looking for something next to that screw since I thought it was holding the post in, but the post screws directly into the playfield. Great.... and I damaged my playfield because of it.

I've done worse to a pin when I was new to the hoby, don't beat yourself up too bad about it. Just remember that it all started as a blank piece of wood so everything comes off by some form or fashion if you need to get to something. It'll be covered by the cliffy anyway right?

#10431 2 years ago
Quoted from Hayfarmer:

I thought maybe so, but dont see them. Sure is pretty,,,

You can definitely see the Pinstadium striping down both sides very clearly if you know what you're looking at.

#10438 2 years ago
Quoted from Hayfarmer:

Well, I guess we both don't know what we are looking at. Very nice home made lighting he did.

Net effect is the same. But yes sounds like a cleaner solution although requires cabinet modifications.

1 month later
#10708 2 years ago

No issues with mine, 2 months in.

3 weeks later
#10919 2 years ago
Quoted from chickenscratch:

Ah shit I realized what it is now, wasn’t a left/right adj issue but needed to bring the rod up a good cm; all good now

The suggestion to use painters tape to mark the exact location around your old plate before removing it for proper re-installing is a savvy trick that people should use to avoid this.

#10921 2 years ago
Quoted from chickenscratch:

Well that would have been smart had I known that trick! Would be sweet if we had a post that was “here’s a compilation of every bit of smart knowledge and tricks we’ve learned after decades of pinball” but at that point could probably just publish a book.

Indeed. Though it's not necessarily as vitally important to be 100% exact on other pins as it is for this one. I've swapped plenty of plates before doing restorations and it's never been an issue. This is just one of those instances where perusing your owners thread can come in handy so you can benefit from other's experiences and lessons learned with the pin. I know it's helped me immensely in solving some issues and avoiding others.

Screenshot_20210704-073232_Chrome (resized).jpgScreenshot_20210704-073232_Chrome (resized).jpg
1 month later
#11259 2 years ago
Quoted from chickenscratch:

Got the amber shooter rod in today. Doesn’t come with any new screws and the og screws that came with the pin very much do not align on threads, or they didn’t thread all the way down, or both.
Chewed right through the threads on one hole and here’s a side by side of how far they naturally screw down till:
[quoted image]
They don’t come close to getting tight, another 1/8+ to go.

Yea, this has been covered before. As mentioned you can use a tap and die set to cut the threads in or just do what I did and muscle the screw in further to cut the threads in with the screw.

#11271 2 years ago
Quoted from JMCFAN:

$3000?? Diff in LE and Prem is usually about $1200.....

Aren't we at $7600/prem and $9500/LE averages these days? The last LE I bought was an SWLE at $8500 but I had heard it went up from there when I almost bought an AIQLE.

Stern/PBL Shaker - $100
HD glass - I put PDI in at $300
Exterior Side armor - $60 - $75 for extended rails
Interior Side Art - $75 - $100
Powder coat $250 - $300 for a nice 2 stage "illusion" color (sometimes better than stock LE color)
Mirrored backglass, plaque, autograph - LE feature only

Most of my games are premiums so I know the math well as I do these upgrades with all my premiums and it usually runs about $800. Although I have had LE's (and currently have a SWLE). The main reason I mostly go the premium route is that I hate all the drama upon the initial release with trying to secure an LE as well as making me commit before I ever see it play. If it also saves me a little money and gives me some choice in how I customize it then so be it.

#11272 2 years ago
Quoted from chickenscratch:

They’ve already been tapped though, can you re-tap existing threads? Would seem odd. Anywho I just added an extra washer to close the gap. Now back to the damn shooter lane wobble-fail with Stern; was hoping I’d get lucky with new rod, of course not. 0 washers, 1 washer, 2 washer under left of shooter lane ramp, doesn’t matter. Both manual and auto plunge has ball ricochete off both sides of lane, even when it succeeds. There seems to be a deeper production issue here. I’ve aligned plunger and bent forks into place so many times; I swear both are on the money now. I’m not even so sure the wood grove align with metal grove… going to pull this pic into photoshop tomorrow and see.

If it was like mine and most of the recent castings, the housing holes are tapered and untapped. The screw initially goes in fairly easily. Then once you get to about half way it starts to get much tighter as the taper tightens. That's where you can either just muscle it in there to use the screw to finish cutting threads in the softer metal or use a tap. And yes, you can use a tap on existing threads. It's not about "re-tapping", you insert the tap into the existing thread groves not at a different angle/orientation/thread pitch/etc.. I do that all the time to clean threads up whether they just need to be freshened up or to fix a cross thread issue.

For your shooter rod placement issue, did you use the painters tape trick to ensure that new plate was placed in the exact same location that original was? I leveraged that method and my shots were perfect once installed.

#11275 2 years ago
Quoted from JMCFAN:

Mando Prem $7800 LE $9200

Ahh already up $200 from the JP prem I just bought. I think depending on the craze for the tittle, distros can easily ask for and get $9500 or whatever MSRP happens to get raised to. Seems like $1400-$1700 is about the prem/LE difference range which thinking back to the SWLE I bought, seems to be expanding from the $1200 it used to be ($7300 vs $8500).

2 weeks later
#11419 2 years ago
Quoted from stubborngamer:

Nothing stops you from using an old code though. Yes the process of actually trying to keep the code up to date is probably a huge headache, even if it's possible it's up to him if he wants to do it. You can also always switch back and forth, try the new stuff, if you are interested, but still have the not insider enabled version with movie clips at the ready.

If they use the new node boards in the new production runs like they did with other titles like AIQ, it does infact stop you from using old code.

#11508 2 years ago

I've seen this from time to time with various shooter swap outs from restorations I've done. If it truly is physically binding (and not something that lube helps) it's usually because of the inner bushing and the casting being sloppy. I have used two approaches to remedy this. One is to take the shooter rod (no springs or any thing else installed on it) and repeatedly ram it all the way in and all the way out of the housing to break through the material that is causing the resistance and wear it down slightly. The second thing I have done in more extreme cases where that hasn't worked is to take a thin round steel file (I got mine from HF) and slide it in and out of the shooter housing bushing to take a very slight amount off. I've never had a scenario where one of these two solutions hasn't worked.

#11567 2 years ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

Take a look at Home Depot triple tap, Model #62532
$15

I got mine at HF back in the day since I knew I wouldn't be using them much and they've worked great for everything I needed. Definitely something every toolbox should have.

#11583 2 years ago
Quoted from scootss:

You had me at Klein. Thanks.

Big fan of my Klein screwdrivers but my magnetic nut driver set (that I only use for pinball) have lost 3 of their magnets. I know I can get them replaced, I just haven't bothered with it yet.

This is the T&D set I bought back in the day. It's a pretty nice deal for a full range SAE and Metric T&D set. Even better when you could use a 20% off coupon.

https://www.harborfreight.com/sae-metric-tap-and-die-set-60-pc-60366.html

#11592 2 years ago
Quoted from DakotaMike:

Yes, you need a deepwell socket set. There are some nice ones for not too much money. I use this 1/4 drive set from Dewalt all the time for pinball stuff.
amazon.com link »

This. The right tool for the specific job makes life much easier. It's why I have a bunch of tools that I only use a few times a year (or maybe have only used once). Not that I need much of an excuse to buy new tools

#11631 2 years ago
Quoted from ScottyC:

Jurassic Park Double Deluxe Mode Aware speaker lights (type12 and type13 combo)
Well after having what seemed to be a very intimate relationship learning FASTLED (really just scratching the surface), I finally have finshed mode aware speaker lights for Jurassic Park. I wanted something other than just color changes on this one so ended up creating different effects for most modes (some are repetitive, as there's just so many modes in JP, lol) As always still tweaking colors and effects to my liking, but this is what I have at the moment. Just wanted to share
Details on the mod from inception: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bksor-flaming-speaker-mod-diy/
Here's the arduino code: https://pastebin.com/raw/rvLKsB16
Some Photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/rFVkcC76RVK2omBk7
And a couple vids, cause who doesn't love a video (Sample of the modes in JP, Man its hard to video LEDs to capture their true colors, but it is what it is)
And my favorite mode: Invalid Frenzy

That's definitely next level stuff right there. I could see that being factory and tied into the code and PF lighting for greater immersion. Would be a great LE perk but purchasable for the rest.

Great work!

1 week later
#11694 2 years ago
Quoted from JMCFAN:

How hard was it? Mine will not straighten up at all... need to get with Stern for a replacement...

Mine's got the gangsta lean as well but I think I'm just going to leave it until I replace it with the Niro raptor mod instead of messing with it now.

#11706 2 years ago
Quoted from JMCFAN:

I am guessing you mean Lior... is this really happening..?? I hope so.... have signs and Trex....

Yes and yes he stated he has plans for it. Looking for it to show up here one day!

https://www.2niro-pinball.com/category/pinball-mods/

1 week later
#11755 2 years ago

Pinball = Dimples, it's all part of the charm of whacking a steel ball around in a wooden box

2 weeks later
#11863 2 years ago
Quoted from John_I:

Looks good. What is the name of the color(s)?

Agreed, it looks just like the same effect of the Grecian Gold Vein from Prismatic that I have on my LOTR except for obviously a different mix of colors.

2 weeks later
#12011 2 years ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Anyone take delivery of a premium lately and notice if Stern is now putting washer in some of the problem spots where the ball guides were digging into the pf?
Curious to know if they made that change as I have a friend looking to buy one.
Thanks!

Mine didn't from April but it's not like it took me long to do it myself.

2 weeks later
#12202 2 years ago
Quoted from Flash71:

Get rid of the arcade games. Priorities!

And pool tables, and "formal dining rooms", and extra bedrooms.... Those are all nonsense words in this hobby.

#12238 2 years ago
Quoted from purbeast:

I was looking at Amazon earlier today.
Did you get the Klein square looking one?
That one seemed to have really high ratings.
Just searching this forum and google though people are saying the apps are just as accurate as the levels.
Also if you had a 7 degree between the flippers, is it also 7 degrees up above or was it different? Or did you not even check it and just care about that area as the basis?

I've had this one for years and it works great:

iGaging AngleCube Digital Level + Bevel Gauge 2 in 1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LL0BIC/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_KGAF5Q0H6NRT4TAEXAEW

3 weeks later
#12473 2 years ago
Quoted from acedanger:

Anyone have any experience w/ these https://cointaker.com/products/pinball-shooter-lane-protector I followed instructions; but it doesn't lay flush & switch doesn't get activated & balls get jammed?? I might just toss it & get a small piece of mylar.

I'm not a fan of those either but you can bend the actuator arm on the switch and it'll work fine. I prefer Cliffies on top of mylar for my shooter lane needs.

#12477 2 years ago
Quoted from acedanger:

Bend it out towards me by a very small amount? Thanks.

Look at the switch under the PF closely, press the actuator down until hear it click, and it will make sense how it works. You bend the bar up slightly so that the ball pushes it far enough to clear the white switch contact point. To far up and the ball will hang up on it.

#12479 2 years ago
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:

Look at the switch under the PF closely, press the actuator down until hear it click, and it will make sense how it works. You bend the bar up slightly so that the ball pushes it far enough to clear the white switch contact point. To far up and the ball will hang up on it.

I'd also check out the various pinwiki's and similar for other pinball 101 diy type of maintenance items. In general most adjustments and repairs are very simple with basic tools and knowhow.

#12553 2 years ago
Quoted from purbeast:

Anyone have any pics of LED speaker kits they put on their JP Pro?
I'm somewhat interested in them but there seem to be a lot of different ones out there and curious to see what the different ones look like. I kind of like the look of the LED circles versus the ones that have the full rectangular panel lit up. But I kind of want to see different ones to get more of a comparison on this machine.
I almost got the ones from pinball life but then saw there were so many so don't want to rush into it.

Just reach out to Doug and spekerlightkits, he'll advise you about all the various options and take very good care of you.

1 week later
#12666 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

No red spring needed on the one I have. Aftermarket shooter rod too. No issues.

Mine either but you have to install the new plate exactly where the old one was (via the painters tape method) or run the risk that the alignment is off and it not shooting correctly.

1 week later
#12791 2 years ago
Quoted from purbeast:

Okay since modding pins is addicting and I've done pretty much everything to mine I want to, I am thinking of getting some side art blades for mine.
Right now my favorite I've seen are the Tilt Graphics ones.
https://www.tiltgraphicsinc.com/product-page/jurassic-park-stern-gameblades
But I am also open to other options and am just curious if those of you who have some and have pictures of them installed, if you could post some pics in here so I can do some comparisons.
Thanks,.

Sorry I am at work so no photos on the game but I went with the RR pro blades on mine (premium) to try and most closely match the style and colors of the PF. The Wizard blades would have been my second choice followed by the Tilt blades and lastly the Stern blades. I just don't get the big dino eyeball on the side art. It just doesn't do anything for me.

jurassic-park-stern-pro-pinball-sideblades-inside-decals-sideboard-art-pin-blades (resized).jpgjurassic-park-stern-pro-pinball-sideblades-inside-decals-sideboard-art-pin-blades (resized).jpg
#12800 2 years ago

I'll see if I can get a photo tonight.

Every set of blades I have had that are the thicker stock type are very easy to remove. The only ones I wouldn't even attempt to remove (nor would I want to) are my LOTR sillyoldelf blades because that are a thinner 1 ply material that I am sure would come off, just not in one piece.

The "premium" version of the PF blades never made since to me. I'd rather have the art match the playfield that it's literally adjacent to rather that the BG that's 3 feet above it.

4 months later
#13801 1 year ago
Quoted from timlah79:

Well, whoever CashMoney's league's friend is just made it so no one ever gets shared to again. I hope whoever that is sleeps well at night knowing that his actions puts the creator of any mod in jeopardy. Unbelievable.

I know you've been burned Tim as I've read all the posts but it never hurts to ask before you just assume the worst. All my local leagues alternate between local owners houses as well. There's just not the best selection out in the wild and I prefer a home environment where you can control sound, food/drink, and atmosphere.

4 weeks later
#14113 1 year ago

Sorry, I can no longer hear the word table without thinking of this:

1 month later
#14752 1 year ago

Never buy any pinball protectors not made by Cliffy.

4 weeks later
#14874 1 year ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

De-solder the red/black wires from the old speaker. Solder onto new speaker. Red on +. Yes you will need a soldering iron but for just this I'd get a cheapo. Don't use a cheapo iron on boards though.

Or just clip them and crimp on a spade connector just like the ones on the end of the grey wires if you don't want to mess with soldering anything.

1 month later
#15143 1 year ago
Quoted from Lucxor:

Hello everyone i decided to upload my Adaptermodel For the Jada Toy Car so everyone with a 3D printer can print it themself.
It is now Aviable to Buy as a 3D Printing model online for 40 Dollars wich i get 70% of it. (no Tax)
If you are Intrested and want to support me here is the Link :
https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/hobby-diy/mechanical-parts/adapter-for-toycar-for-stern-pinball-jurassic-park
Please mind the License:
Royalty Free License ( Cf Cgtrader Terms and conditions ) Reselling Any parts, modified parts, baked Geometry or texture, or any sources file is not allowed
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks for that. Maybe I'm missing something, how do I download the .stl file form that site?

#15151 1 year ago
Quoted from JMCFAN:

And He his not asking for $$ to be fair....

Actually try the link. The .stl file does require a $40 payment to download, it's not free. The way I initially read the post was that it was free to download but pay to have it printed. I was mistaken.

#15152 1 year ago
Quoted from Had:

Yes please that would be great.

Agreed, I haven't bothered to do the melting fix so a prop up piece to fix it would be great.

1 week later
#15242 1 year ago
Quoted from PinPickle:

Get the theme you prefer most.
Both pins are incredible.

Agreed 100% for me. I have found "great" games that I didn't click with the theme and I just couldn't get into them. I have found over the years that loving the theme is ticket to entry for me. The theme can even give a pass for a "flaw(s)" in the game that other people say make the game horrible.

1 week later
#15277 1 year ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

Yes, eBay has alternatives for $100 shipped from Ft.Collins Colorado I think. I installed in mine… very nice quality!!
ebay.com link: itm

He sells them on Pinside as well. Do him a favor and contact him directly to avoid Ebay fees: Pinstein

#15300 1 year ago
Quoted from kempsuk:

Hi All
New to this forum. I'm sure this has been asked (100 times, so be gentle ), but looking to swap out the Jeep on my JP for the JADA 1:32 proper Jeep. Any hints and tips on how to do this??
Thanks in advance.
Regards Darren

Don't forget about the "find in topic" function

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/162#post-5967641

#15302 1 year ago
Quoted from kempsuk:

Thank you so much... great instructions!! I did buy the 1:32 size (which looks to be the same size), but you mentioned the 1:43 in your instructions. Is there much difference in size??
Thanks again.

Thank you. This is a search type thing right, if so, I didnt know it was a thing. Thank you for this also.

Yep, all the thread tools are right at the top. Sometimes I just cruise the photos to find what I'm looking for.

Screenshot_20221113_154745 (resized).jpgScreenshot_20221113_154745 (resized).jpg
#15350 1 year ago
Quoted from Ballderdash:

I hit a fun quad combo tonight (although no associated bonus or callout). Right helix ramp, left guard tower 180, right helipad 180, left T-rex ramp.
Btw, is the right flipper button supposed to allow a half press to actuate lower flipper independent of the upper flipper? Fully pressing makes them both flip. Or is something wrong with my machine?

If not how could you cradle at the bottom and flip from the upper. Also helps to not have the upper flipper block your lower flipper shot. Pinball machines have been like that for quite a while now.

#15382 1 year ago

Has anyone done any artwork replacement for the center apron decal? I usually like to swap out the seizure warning stickers for something more artistic and less CYA...

#15384 1 year ago
Quoted from Manny65:

There's these magnetic aprons - both IC and non-IC versions https://www.wizardmod.com/jurassic-park-pinball-mods

Thanks. I'm having the apron PC'd so I don't want to cover it. I'm just looking for something fun for the center apron. I might have to mock something up myself. Maybe something simple like the JP logo.

#15387 1 year ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

I’ve seen some decals for the apron center that describe the function(s) of the action button. I find that a smart use of the space.

In this thread?

3 weeks later
#15602 1 year ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Stern JP Shooter Rod: Too Big?
I do think the factory shooter for this game is dope, but I don't really like BIG shooter knobs. This one seems darned big. Is it in fact more comfortable than it looks?

It's larger than most but by no means obscenely large or uncomfortable. Feels just fine in the hand.

#15636 1 year ago
Quoted from dirkdiggler:

The free play card is a little disturbing

I think you mean disturbingly sexy

2 weeks later
#15794 1 year ago
Quoted from Wmsfan-GAP:

Cliff is incredibly backed up. He’s a one man show and the demands on him are really high. I ordered two sets (one of which was for JP full set), from order to finish it was just under 3 months. It is what it is. He’s the only one making them.

Indeed, he was 7+ weeks behind when I ordered at the end of November. He does his best to keep up as best as he can.

1 month later
#16138 1 year ago

I ordered them off of Amazon and they worked like a charm.

#16140 1 year ago
Quoted from John_C:

I also bought those M7 thrust bearings off Amazon that many in this thread have pointed to. They are most definitely NOT the right size for use in the machine. As Jason mentioned, the inner diameter of the M7 bearings is too big and there is too much slop when placed on the post. With the bearing not sitting centered on the post, your Jeep will not swing cleanly from side to side like it's supposed to.
I ended up taking out the M7 bearing and reinstalling the original bearing. I noticed an immediate improvement in the way the Jeep swings and then rests on the captive ball.

Did you order these? I've been using them with no issues on both the jeep and helicopter.

Screenshot_20230228_070504_Amazon Shopping (resized).jpgScreenshot_20230228_070504_Amazon Shopping (resized).jpg
2 months later
#16461 11 months ago
Quoted from NPO:

For the movie code - I have 2 cards ... one with standard code, and one with movie code. That way, I can switch back and forth without having to worry about what version I am running.

Agreed, I do this for all my games with custom code on it. Worth the extra $8 for the card.

1 week later
#16529 11 months ago
Quoted from Days:

can you explain how to do it?
it's just to put the movie code in another card , and then when i play i just switch cards?

That's as complicated as it is, yes. It'll likely install/check the node board code but that's normal with any different software and the start up boot check.

#16546 11 months ago
Quoted from JMCFAN:

There are few posts on the leaning raptor... use a heat gun to soften it and adjust the posture... I have had to do mine 2 or 3 times.... hoping Lior comes up with a awesome raptore upgrade!!!

There's also a file posted on here to print yourself a little hip bumper for the right hip to make it stand upright. Mine was rubbing on the side and getting caught so it wouldn't fall back down. I installed the hip spacer and now it works great. Was much easier than the heat method.

1 week later
#16819 10 months ago

I love the random nature of the T-rex throwing the ball wherever the heck he wants. To the previous point, you shoot at that ramp a ton and it only rarely grabs the ball. So while it does stop the flow for that one shot, I see it more as a build up like many other games do before a multi-ball scenario.

#16848 10 months ago
Quoted from Palmer:

I picked up JP premium in a trade. Was one where I met halfway in a parking lot. Game itself it working pretty well but I noticed when I started playing that the post that guards the upper flipper was crooked. I thought the post just needed to be tightened down but the flipper coil mount blocks it on the other side. Its like the post threads are too long. I didn't want to torque down any more than I was. I asked the previous owner but he said he never did anything to that post. Rubber sleeve was taken off before I took these photos.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Bent from impacts? Pull it out and look at it. You can shorten the threads with a bench grinder if you need to. Someone else notched out the flipper plate to clear access to it as well. Buy a shorter thread post is another option.

2 months later
#17316 8 months ago
Quoted from JMCFAN:

Has anyone replaced the Raptor on a Prem or LE? Mine continues to lean and get stuck.. I have done the heat gun trick....and works for a while.... but goes right back....

There's an STL file posted in this thread for a little wedge that I printed to basically separate his right thigh from the plastic. That kept him straight enough for it to not get caught in the down position permanently like it was before. YMMV but it's worth a try.

#17319 8 months ago
Quoted from JMCFAN:

Thanks....don't have a printer...

Neither do I but my dad did and he knew just enough about it to print it for me

It's literally the tiniest little piece. I had him make me a few just in case I broke 1, and I did. I would build it solid or least with some density to it since it has two little arms that go around the PF plastic. Very nice of the crew here to have already have offered to help you print it as it is cool when it works. I had my raptor face down for like a year and it's great to have him working correctly again.

#17331 8 months ago
Quoted from marspinball:

I might need this but can't find the post.

Sure, here you go buddy: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5578276

#17371 8 months ago
Quoted from VisitorQ:

I saw someone on Facebook having this exact same issue but I lost track of the post.
My Raptor figure keeps getting stuck. Usually it's the hands that get caught inside of the plastic when it is knocked down, I should really take some pictures. I have tried bending it different ways but it always seems to bend back to the incorrect position. Anyone else here have this issue and if so, what was the best way of correcting it?
Thx

There are many posts about this. I even very recently posted a link to an STL file for a nub that straightens out the raptor. I highly suggest a quick read/search through the thread and the many different approaches to straightening out the raptor.

6 months later
#20896 70 days ago
Quoted from seenev:

I got so sick of my leaning raptor that I made this little nub to slide into the plastic and prop it up. Printed it with TPU for that rubber cushion, non abrasive texture.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5578276

I second this. I printed one of these in just "regular" plastic on my dads cheap 3d printer and it solved my problem. Much thanks for sharing this simple solution which doesn't require removing anything to remedy the issue.

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