I would really love to see pics of a premium or pro with the stern side armor and stern art blades. Thanks in advance!
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I would really love to see pics of a premium or pro with the stern side armor and stern art blades. Thanks in advance!
Quoted from jdroc:Also, little subwoofer porn for the morning! I hooked up a 5 way input selector to the 3 pins and my home theater (shared with my pins) and now I have my SVS PB12-NSD for bass. That thing barely fits under JP and is just as wide I have to keep it at about 25% gain, though, or at volume 10 on JP you can feel the floors shake upstairs when the T-rex roars.
[quoted image]
Nice!! I love SVS subs
Quoted from Had:Hello from Melbourne,
I just placed my order for a JP premium which are shipping to Australia in early December. I'm super pumped for this pin as it's my first NIB.
What's the general concensus on the factory balls? I was surprised to hear that others had been replacing theirs as this wasn't something I had considered.
Any other first time NIB tips would be appreciated.
Thanks
The balls that come with new pins are just fine. No need to replace them. Just clean the oil off of them before you play. I use rubbing alcohol and paper towels.
Completely go through the pin, under the playfield, in the backbox, everywhere, checking all connections making sure that everything is nice and snug.
Get a digital torpedo level. Set the playfield level and try 6.5-6.8 incline. Don't trust the little bubble level in the shooter lane.
Have fun
Quoted from SheriffBarclay:Can someone take a pic of the area up next to the helipad ramp/scoop? I, like others, am getting a lot of rejects. My main question is that metal guide piece - mine protrudes out, looks like it's trying to guide it into the scoop. Is this how everyone else's looks?[quoted image][quoted image]
Mine is the same as yours. I bent the end of that metal guide slightly outward towards the cabinet. Nothing changed. This auto plunger reject issue is really pissing me off
Quoted from Chambahz:I posted a fix for this earlier. Search for it and fix the issue.
Essentially, you just want to raise the left fork a little, forcing the ball to the right side.
Let me know if you have any issues.
Actually I already tried that. It didn't fix the problem unfortunately. Thank you though
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:I just piggy backed (soldered) off the woofer terminals in my ST pro (SAM system) and ran to floor subwoofer. Works great! Not sure why this Pinnovators board is necessary? Unless there is a reason I can't piggy back off a Spike 2 Woofer???
I plan to use this A/B switch box to connect my subwoofer to both pins when I get my JP pro. Anyone try this?
amazon.com link »
[quoted image]
First of all, I am in no way associated with pinnovators. I’ve just used many of them.
The absolute cleanest way to go is with the pinnovators sub out kit. No soldering. No modifying your machine. Low level output. Doesn’t rob power from the cabinet woofer. Works great.
You have been connecting speaker wire to you woofer terminals and taking the high level (speaker) output from the pin to the high level inputs on your subwoofer. Works, but not ideal.
Your switcher above is a low level (RCA) a/b switcher. It’s designed for 2 low level inputs and designed to select either input A or input B. It’s not designed to mix 2 inputs into one output. It’s also not designed to merge 2 high level speaker outputs into one low level output.
Many subs have a pair of high level inputs (usually L and R). If your sub has this then you could connect both pins the same way you’ve done before from the woofer terminals. Not clean, but will work.
The cleaner way to go is to use 2 sub out kits connecting to something like the pinnovators PINsmx which allows 4 low level connections. It’s a mixer, not a switcher.
Hope this helps.
Nick (AV nerd)
Hey guys.
I've been having problems with my Premium. On almost every game at some point a high speed left orbit shot from the upper flipper isn't registering. Both rollover switches and both optos are working correctly in switch test. My guess is that the left rollover isn't being fully depressed due to the ball speed, or maybe the ball isn't completely flat on the playfield. If it's getting a little airborn it may not be depressing the switch all the way.
I'm just wondering if any of you are seeing this too?
Thanks
Nick
Quoted from KnockerPTSD:I dont have a JP yet so I cant say for sure but I had the same issue on my Maiden loops. Put a piece of electrical tape around the optos covering the bottom half of the beam and you should be good to go. Narrowing the beam means the ball can break it long enough at high speeds to register properly. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the idea. I'll look into it.
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:I haven't had this issue personally, but I have a feeling you're on the right track with the trouble shooting. Everything works fine if it's a lower speed shot, correct?
Correct
Guys!
Lay off Zach! Newsflash.. selling pinball machines and the accessories is his business. That’s what he does. So what if he posted a pic with his company info! There are hundreds, if not thousands of posts here on pinside from guys trying to sell their products. How is this any different?
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