(Topic ID: 248582)

Jurassic Park (Stern 2019) Owners Club. Welcome! To Jurassic park.....

By Scribbles

2 years ago

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10 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #72 Custom Jurassic Park apron cards Posted by Coindropper (2 years ago)

Post #230 Custom Apron Cards for Stern JP Posted by Coindropper (2 years ago)

Post #326 Rules tips and info on some wizard modes Posted by sk8ball (2 years ago)

Post #365 Printable Instruction cards for the pin Posted by PinballZach (2 years ago)

Post #366 The first Full Unboxing Video Posted by ZMeny (2 years ago)

Post #425 Feature Matrix of Pro vs Premium vs LE Posted by Scribbles (2 years ago)

Post #468 How to qualify control room modes Posted by jonesjb (2 years ago)

Post #2298 Keith Elwin explains JP rules Posted by MRG (2 years ago)

Post #3040 Raptor target not registering or "ghost" registering, possible fix Posted by Jesder (2 years ago)

Post #5270 make the jeep work well Posted by Scribbles (1 year ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#5623 1 year ago

Just finished my first mods. The lit T-Rex and Barbasol can are from Mezel. I did a bit of a mod to their mod by eliminating the grey spacers that previously held up plastic -56. It turns out that those machine screws are 6-32, which happens to be the same as outlet and switch covers. I had some black ones left over from my basement project, and now they disappear into the background. (Photo for comparison below)

The helicopter is from Modfather. I did some tinkering here too with plastics and hardware. It is just the right size, and goes very good with the game. It appears that it is just a Matchbox style toy with a simple bracket attached. I searched for a similar toy to no avail.

My topper finally arrives on Saturday!

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#5627 1 year ago
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:

How did you mount the chopper? Separate the body?

It came with a small bracket that is screwed to the bottom of the toy.

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#5632 1 year ago
Quoted from RipleYYY:

i'm still stuned to see people wasting more time modding their pins than playing them... !?
this said friendly of course
and OK, its also part of this hobby...

I've had my parts for months, as I didn't want to cut into play time! I waited until it was time for a wax.

#5634 1 year ago
Quoted from Mutt:

my wife says it's like a doll house and she's excited to get more crap for me to put in it. she just loves that she's made it look nicer. besides, I like it all too.
as for modding the NIB pin, mine is falling apart anyway. I literally keep finding screws / spaces sliding down the playfield. I need to get in there & tighten everything anyway so what better time to do it than when I'm installing protectors, & other crap.

A doll house! That is hilarious.

I was planning on a wax this week anyway, but what threw me over the edge was a machine screw and spacer sliding down the playfield. It was the right hand side of the T-Rex ramp. I checked all other screws while I had things apart: nothing else seemed loose. A few games with the glass off to test things highlights how much stress and vibration a pin goes through on every game. In a way, it reminds me of working on helicopters: a machine that is constantly trying to shake itself apart.

#5687 1 year ago

After a COVID delay, followed by a USPS delay, my Tilt Topper arrived today. It really caps off the game nicely.

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1 week later
#5763 1 year ago
Quoted from seenev:

How much does HD glass improve this game? Do you guys think it's worth it?

I bought a 2 pack of Invisiglass on sale. At that price, it was worth it to me. If you can split the cost with a friend, or sell the second sheet (my backup plan if my next pin doesn't come with it) it lowers the cost. Just as Toppers and most mods don't night and day effect gameplay, most of us have done things to customize our games. I didn't want new glass until I saw it in person at a local retailer. I had a friend over last night who played my JP, he thought it didn't have glass. It's so much easier to see on my old Gottlieb.

#5797 1 year ago
Quoted from madmack:

Any JP2 with mirrorblades? Pics?!

Mine should be in next week. I'll post a photo.

3 weeks later
#6165 1 year ago
Quoted from trihedron:

Got my prem. machine on Thursday. So far so good. My only complaint is that sometimes the voice call-outs sound terrible, like there is a deep muffling sound mixed in with the call outs. Haven't been paying attention to the forums to know if there is any fixes for this, or if this is just how it is. Even my friend that came over immediately said: wow that sounds terrible.

What code are you on? Might check that first. There is also a custom code that a fellow pinsider made that uses actual clips from the movie. For me, it makes an awesome game even better.

#6174 1 year ago
Quoted from trihedron:

I recorded a video of some of the sound issues I'm having with the voice call outs, does anyone have any suggestions?

Go into settings, and make sure the speakers are set for 8 ohms. I believe one code update accidentally changed it to 4. I would then check the sound levels and EQ. There is a master volume, as well as individual gain control over music and callouts. Your video sounds like speaker distortion to me.

#6230 1 year ago
Quoted from QuietEarp:

I have only been playing this game for a few weeks but does anyone else think that Nedry is getting all of the blame and no-one else is taking any responsibility for the crazy situation that is happening in Jurassic Park? I mean no-one else was slacking at their job?

He was the one to initiate, "White rabbit object..." yep. His fault.

#6234 1 year ago
Quoted from seenev:

Do you guys ever get little specks of orange debris on the playfield? I think it's from fiction on the slingshot plastics. Is that normal?


My guess would be that the shooter spring is shedding some of its orange coating. See if the orange isn't concentrated in the shooter lane. You might not be able to see it on un-lit clear over blank P/F. You will probably have to run your finger like someone checking for dust.

#6285 1 year ago


Thanks for those links, I ordered one tonight. I presume you remove the shaft from under the playfield, and remove the factory truck on the bench?

#6303 1 year ago
Quoted from jacksparrow0112:

First time pin owner so pardon my inexperience. Came home from vacation to a noticeably weaker right flipper. Skill shots aimed at left ramp hitting somewhere around the raptor cage. I took a look at the flipper assembly and coil stop and didn’t see anything initially. There is some black powder that I could wipe off, not nothing looked out of place. What recommendations do you have for getting my flipper back to working order? I checked the game menu to confirm my right flipper power is still set to where it was before vacation. Thanks in advance.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Looks like a bad coil stop. Do a search on that term here on pinside, and you'll know where to buy them and what to do.

#6330 1 year ago
Quoted from chubtoad13:

Who has art blades on their game that they love? I was disappointed with the quality of the ones I bought and won’t be putting them in my game.
If you have installed pics of the Stern ones, tiltgraphics, etc. and comment on the quality of the print, that would be great.

I have mirror blades on mine, and I'm happy with them. It adds depth, and brightened things up a bit.

#6340 1 year ago
Quoted from sliprose:

Do the outlane posts do anything in this game? A couple of months ago I lowered the outlane posts, hoping to cut down a bit on side drains, but I was just thinking that it really made little to no difference. It seems the common angles that feed the outlanes miss the posts regardless of position. Has anyone else noticed that moving the outlane posts doesn't change much?

Funny I was just getting ready to move mine. Maybe it isn't worth the effort.

#6343 1 year ago

I'm replacing factory rubber with Titans today. When removing one adjacent to the 2x scoring target, I noticed it was cut. "I'll have to stretch it to keep from cutting the new one myself." Nope. Factory results.

Short of grinding the corner, has anyone had any luck? The original never broke, maybe this will last a while too.

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#6345 1 year ago
Quoted from zeldarioid:

Finally got my JP shooter rod in today, through my distributor, so it is the one from Stern. I have heard about fairly poor quality on these (only after having made the purchase, of course), but figured I'd keep the order and see what I got. My initial reaction is certainly twinged with a little disappointment in how the unit looks in-hand and un-lit, though I expect to enjoy it a bit more when it's on the machine and lit up.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

What does the back side, where the diodes come through, look like?

#6348 1 year ago
Quoted from zeldarioid:

See below
[quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks. Where do they have that plugging in? The connector looks different than what I was expecting. I have a Modfather rod coming, and I was going to modify my own plate.

#6350 1 year ago
Quoted from zeldarioid:

My bad! Looks like there was more in the box. There are no instructions, save for which screws to remove to replace the shooter plate assembly, but it would seem to me that this will run over to the board on the left side of the cabinet, plugging into CN15 ("Spare LEDs").
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Ok. Now it makes sense. I was expecting CN15, but the cable looked way too short and the connector the wrong style. Thanks for the photos!

#6358 1 year ago
Quoted from Jeffswack:

I have the modfather shooter rod on order...
Does anyone have the light kit part of the shooter rod made up yet?

Go back one page. I asked, and someone was kind enough to post photos.

#6369 1 year ago
Quoted from flashburn:

I've been trying to install this same Jeep, but not having much success. I mounted it at the same position yours is, but it just doesn't smoothly rotate. It has enough friction that it will stop and not go all the way to one side like it always did before. Any ideas?

Do you have the plastic washer sandwiched between the two metal ones? With the playfield up, is the pointer rubbing on the opto sensor?

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#6382 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Red rubber was even worse. Black improved, but barely. I probably get it across to the right 30% of the time enough to actually catch it.
Rest of the time, it's just a weak-ass pass that I have to immediately flip or it's a drain.
What could be causing this? Anyone?
I'm considering rebuilding the entire flipper, which is insane for a brand new LE game.

I feel like my left flipper reed needed adjustment. It engaged with the slightest depression of the button, which also means that contact isn't broken unless you completely remove your finger. This might be happening to you as well, and since the contact is never fully open, you are only getting the hold section of the flipper coil, and thus a seemingly weak flipper.

#6385 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

So you widened the space of the EOS switch, or the flipper button switch?

Flipper button. Check to see how far you have to push the button to engage. If it closes too quickly, there isn't any nuance on the button.

#6413 1 year ago
Quoted from Jeffswack:

Final update...the crack team at stern wired it in reverse. Resoldered it the right way and it works.

At least it wasn't the meth team! (I kid) At least it was an easy fix, and easy to access. Those types of errors can occur in any manufacturing environment.

#6431 1 year ago
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:

Here you go, I removed the rubber for you. the image is also taken from high aboth the machine so you dont get confused by camera angles.
You really can move that post quite much, remove the rubber first... you just have to loosen it up from the top, no need to lift the PF.
zoom in for better quality
[quoted image]

Is that post drilled off center, like a cam, or is the hole just that much larger than the machine screw that holds it in place? I didn't know there was that much adjustment available there.

#6466 1 year ago

Finally finished my DIY stadium lights, and got a more movie correct Jeep installed.

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#6519 1 year ago
Quoted from medic7000:

I just got stern shooter rod. Can someone tell me where to plug in the wire? Do I need to buy any wires to connect to it? I tried searching the forum but couldn’t find any instructions. Thanks

CN15. It is right next to where the shaker motor plugs in.

#6521 1 year ago
Quoted from medic7000:

The wire that comes with the shooter is short and won’t reach it. Any link or where I can get wire from?

That seems awfully cheesy of them. Did it come with any instructions? Maybe there is another place they are picking up power. Does the plug match that of CN15?

I ordered a shaker motor from a reputable distributor not long ago. It came with a wire too short as well. I think it was designed for a pre-Spike game, where the motor would go on the left side of the cabinet. Stern was supposed to include an extension jumper. After I e-mailed to make sure I wasn't sold the wrong part, the distro said that they were having Stern send me the extension. After waiting several weeks, I took matters into my own hands. I cut the wires in the middle, and soldered in about a foot of wire.

#6523 1 year ago
Quoted from medic7000:

My bad. Just found the wire in the box

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2 weeks later
#6730 1 year ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Thx I scrolled through adjustments but never saw them

There are game settings, and general settings. Check both. (Away from home, or I'd check myself)

2 weeks later
#6974 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

For those who have added illuminated flipper buttons, what brand/color did you choose?

I bought yellow ones from PBL. They feel great, no different than factory. Get the reed tool when you order. My left flipper switch closed too early from the factory. After opening up the reed a little bit, I have much better control.

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#7057 1 year ago

I have mirror blades and stadium lighting on my JP, and love the look and functionality. That combo isn't much more than these, and much cheaper if you make the lighting yourself. I've read a lot of horror stories on other games (Munsters for sure) about these.

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#7121 1 year ago
Quoted from BeeGee6533:

Thx for the info! Yes, it could be just the button itself. Any chance the leaf switch/blades the button connects to could also be the issue? If I try to describe the problem, it's like I used to be able quickly or lightly press the button and it would respond well with micro-flips even from a position of cradling(button pressed in fully). Now if I'm cradling and try to post pass, etc. it doesn't respond at all to my subtle button pushes. It requires a full release of the button to respond in any way. Also, I used to like to control the ball in the left flipper at the start of a paddock. When The metal post comes out of the playfield to trap the ball in the left inlane while the paddock animation runs, I would hold my flipper up fully and the when the post releases and the ball comes out I could slightly "micro flip" to control and catch the ball in that left flipper to line up a shot to the "A" ramp for example. It's just that kind of thing. The subtlety in flipping is now gone.

I had a similar sounding issue: I had no nuance on my left flipper. It would activate at the lightest press of the button, and would not release unless I completely took my finger off the button. I ordered a leaf adjusting tool, and made gentle, stepped bends to the switch to open it a little. Now it engages about half way down, giving much more control.

The buttons themselves are very basic: they don't even have springs. All of that action comes from the leaf switch. A little spray dry lube where the actual button and housing meet would probably take care of any undue fiction. This is the stuff I use on my pins and guitars when I need to lubricate small parts:

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#7192 1 year ago
Quoted from zh2oson:

2020 in a nutshell:[quoted image]

Is that scratched up?

#7286 1 year ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

New pro owner here. Are air balls common? I routinely get balls getting on top of the plastics on the left side. Ball also kicks up in the back and often doesn't make a clean loop. Game came to me with plastic protector over pf. I'm wondering if that is the problem since the ball rides a bit higher on pf.

Try adjusting your flipper power down in the game settings. I don't think any of mine are at factory settings. Also, if you haven't done it already, set your game up for 7 degrees. The designer has chimed in here several times that he designed it for that pitch. Do that prior to adjusting flipper strength.

#7323 1 year ago
Quoted from BeeGee6533:

I've had my JP premium for 3 months now and the auto launch and manual plunge made the inverted turn to feed the right lane 100% of the time. Now all of a sudden I'm having the same problem. It now only makes it successfully 70%.. It's very frustrating bc it interferes with gameplay(skill shots, T-rex multiball 1st shot set-up, etc.) After searching this forum I tried the washer fix on the left fork of the ramp thing: didn't work(made it worse). I'm pretty frustrated as it seems like this is a real problem with the game and that mech. I hope there is an actual solution.

I suggest taking off the glass, and testing each ball. If you have one or two with a wear imperfection that causes any type of wobble, you will have trouble making the shot. Also, on my own machine, if I don't pull the plunger all the way back, I often don't make the loop. You then need to adjust the auto ball launch to match. Too strong causes rattling rejects, and too soft can't make the loop.

1 week later
#7500 1 year ago
Quoted from JMCFAN:

While I wait for my Prem.... side blades? Sterns....or one of the other options?

I'm quite happy with mirror blades on mine. It adds depth and brightens things up.

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#7536 1 year ago
Quoted from newpinbin:

Have you had any issue with the trex ramp? Mine consistently rejects the ball.

If it bounces around, try turning down your flipper power on the game settings.

6 months later
#10427 7 months ago
Quoted from Lounge:

Ahem..... 5 balls per game.
Adjust the guides that feed the flippers.
Adjust the shooter lane.
Adjust the screw on the ramp shot.
Test your switches and adjust as necessary.
Go back to real rubber on the flippers (if you changed to poly or silicone).

I haven't had a problem with Titan flipper rubber.

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#10432 7 months ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

I think he has PinStadiums installed.

I made those stadium lights myself. I have rare earth magnets routed into the side of the cabinet. They are hidden by the mirror blades. Then another set of rare earth magnets inside the aluminum angle pieces that I painted black. They snap on and off with authority. I far prefer my lights to the commercially available versions when it comes time for maintenance. I can unplug each light bar and completely remove them. On my other machine, I have to tie them to wireforms to keep them from flopping around.I tried the whole color spectrum, and settled on blue and warm white.

#10434 7 months ago

Hayfarmer This is a photo of my machine with Pinstadium brand lights. You can see how much wider the blades are. This machine is adjusted much more green.

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#10444 7 months ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

What version of the mirror blades did you use? The real mirror ones or the polished metal version?

They are polished metal. I've been very happy with them.

#10447 7 months ago
Quoted from JohnDeere:

What lights did you use for that blue? I love the look, i was going to try and get more of a blue theme on mine when it comes in to match the alternate translite i bought.

I used these:
amazon.com link »

There is a whole thread on making your own stadium lights. I looked for the best ideas and implemented them. If you have a mechanical mind and understand electronics, it isn't bad. If you need step by step photos of a ready to install system, this probably isn't for you.


1 week later
#10492 6 months ago

Agree about the Pinstadiums. If adjusted correctly, they don't detract from the game. I also prefer to not have overhead lights on in my pin area.

I can't speak for everyone, but my home-made stadium lights are controlled with the same app as the factory made versions. Completely adjustable for both white and color.

3 weeks later
#10651 6 months ago
Quoted from timlah79:

THANK YOU! I'm not worried about soldering the connectors. It's the solder "blob" on the motor housing that I do not know how to do. I also don't think it's a standard solder job. If I put my soldering iron at it's max temp 890 degrees, it doesn't even melt that stock "blob". I have even tried putting the iron on the inside of the broken stock motor housing to see if I can just pull off the blob itself. I've also tried to exacto knife it up so I can reuse it. No luck. It is not solder I don't think. It is "welded" onto the housing / w/e metal the housing is made of. I imagine even if I use the new capacitors in the same manner, that it's probably not a good idea to glue or use electrical tape to attach that housing point? Due to heat from the motor?

Temperature is only half of the equation on a soldering iron: wattage is the other. It sounds like you have a low power iron. That "blob" is very similar to how electric guitars and amplifiers have a common ground on the back of the volume potentiometer. If you don't have a local pinball repair guy, call around to music stores and ask if they do amplifier repair. Those guys will have the iron and knowhow to solder it up. Just take the old assembly and your new parts.

Below is a photo of an amp I built for a friend. I had it in for maintenance not to long ago. If you just can't find anyone, send it to me, and I'll fix you up.

#10655 6 months ago
Quoted from timlah79:

Thank you but I have the iron that was recommended from a while ago from someone who repairs pins and arcade machines: amazon.com link »
Are you saying I don't have the right iron nor other tools needed? For $70 + tax and shipping for the motor itself, IMO all I should have to do is solder the connectors back on, screw it back into its assembly and be able to play my machine again. Especially to my point that I bought the exact part number from Stern's manual which makes no mention of those capacitors.
I'm not trying to hire someone to do this or buy more tools for replacement. This should have come as expected, in full based on the official manual's part number and price.
Since none of the above is the case, can you or someone please send a video on how to do this? I've already searched a ton and this stock hack job of capacitors seems to be unique to this exact motor.

That is a good iron: I have the same one. You will need to use a broad tip to transfer enough heat, and it will be helpful, if not absolutely necessary, to use flux on the spot you are soldering. Make a solder spot on the case first, and tin the ends of the capacitors. Then you only have to re-melt surface solder to have a secure connection, as it is already bonded to the case.

Search guitar pot soldering, that will help you figure out how to get this to work. If you need more help, send me a PM and we can talk on the phone.

2 weeks later
#10802 5 months ago
Quoted from DeathHimself:

Will we be using real Mosquito's? If so put me down

Reminds me of Wednesday Addams' question in The Addams Family: "Do your cookies contain real girl scouts?"

I bought one from a mod maker who used real Mosquitos, but it's been over a year, and I can't find the email. I found the PayPal, but it's a guys name, not a business.

Hope you guys have luck making them. It is a really cool mod for the machine.

#10804 5 months ago
Quoted from scootss:

Placing my titan order and thinking about clear rings on the slings...
Can someone share a pic of their playfield that has done this?

#10806 5 months ago
Quoted from scootss:

Thanks gorditas. Exactly the look I was going for. I like the black posts near the ramps. Blends in better than some of the color options I have seen.
What mirror blades do you have? Any issues with playfield clearance?
Thanks again.

I have colored posts on some of my other games, but I agree: in this case, they kind of disappear. Those are mirror blades from CoinTaker. They clear fine, but the screws they send stick out a bit. I have some special screws I bought to try on my next two installs. I'm waiting on getting my hinges back from the powdercoat guy to install them. I'll report back.

#10809 5 months ago
Quoted from marksf123:

Doesn't the Stern one use real mosquitos? I thought mine did?

There was a batch or two from Stern that looked really cheesy. I'd have to search, but either they were using a small bug, or something that was noticeably fake.

#10815 5 months ago

Since the slingshot power can be adjusted downward, I don't think this is a deal breaker as it might be on other games. For whatever reason, my SW has far fewer adjustments available. Thankfully, the slings aren't as active as JP.

1 week later
#10897 5 months ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

That's odd, wonder if you have the latest code? For what it's worth, I have a Pro.

I think that the feature adjustment numbering is the same for all of the Spike 2 machines. Not all machines have the features of reserved spots, and some machines aren't coded for particular adjustments. That is why you see numbers skipped.

#10898 5 months ago
Quoted from Only_Pinball:

I bet you will! I am also in the camp where AIQ theme doesn't light my fire. But WOW the game plays GREAT. I was really surprised how much I like it. My daughter also loves the game and plans to add it to her collection, works for me!

This describes me to a T. I'm not a comic fan at all, and walked right past AIQ several times on location. But once I played it, I found that I kept going back. I far prefer the theme of JP, but I now prefer the gameplay of AIQ Premium by a wide margin.

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#10915 5 months ago
Quoted from chickenscratch:

Oh wow, didn’t realize that; will definitely look around for one and order. Is the spring stern or JP specific or will a parts store just carry “orange spring?”

Pinball Life has them. Order some coil stops while you are at it to have on hand.

1 week later
#10965 4 months ago
Quoted from zr11990:

I already adjusted the outlines to their most narrow point. I did put silicone rubbers on it, I hated those black rubbers

Use the low bounce variety of the silicone flippers. Turning down the sling power is a must: my machine was like watching a tennis match at first.

#10983 4 months ago
Quoted from embryon:

I have a jeep wrangler I can use to mod out the original jeep. I'm just wondering if the mod changes the mech in any way like the jeep may be slightly heavier and rotating is more difficult etc etc

Unless it's something unusually dense at the ends, and larger than the original, no. Many, including myself, within the group have changed out the generic 4-wheeled truck for something that actually looks like the movie Jeep. There are plenty of posts about how to mount the Jada Jeep.

#11038 4 months ago
Quoted from haiderdj:

Installed Pinstadium Neos on my JP Premium today. It had the quick connect option to connect the UV Flasher to the shaker motor.
When I did that, it seems to work for a game or so, and then the UV flasher *and* the shaker motor stop working.
If I reboot the game, it works again... for another part of a game.
Has any body else experienced this? Any suggestions? Thanks in advance!

The UV flashers, combined with the shaker are probably pulling too much current. I like Pinstadiums, but the UV flashers are too bright for me. I ended up adding an inline resistor to knock them down a bit when I had them on my Munsters. I removed them prior to selling it, and plan to install them on my BM66 when it shows up. I might not even hook that circuit up. I made my own stadium lights for JP. Like an actual stadium, they just stay on for the game.

I'd suggest pulling power from a flasher instead of the shaker. You also then gain some control of how bright they are through flasher brightness adjustment in the game menu.

#11042 4 months ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

I might be completely mistaken, but doesn't PinStadiums just use whatever light you hook up to as a trigger, and the lights are actually powered by the the little wall wart?

You are not mistaken. The LED's are powered by the wall wart. This includes the RGB, white, and UV flashers. The trigger circuits do however still pull current, and the amount of current effects the brightness of the LED's connected to it. You can see this by lowering the brightness of the GI circuit that the respective leads are connected to in the JP service menu. The shaker motor pulls a lot of current when it starts, and combined with the rapid current rise of the UV flasher control circuit, they may combine to be over the limit of the shaker circuit. This shouldn't be that surprising: Stern doesn't warranty node board damage from third party shaker motors, probably because many don't have as tight of control over inductance . It would seem that even their own shakers are close to the limits of the node boards, as shown by the issues seen by the OP.

I never had an overcurrent with Pinstadiums attached to any of the lighting circuits, they were just too bright at times. I'm sure one circuit (GI, flasher, etc) can be chosen that probably coincides with almost every activation of the shaker. The other solution would be to add a CLR (current limiting resistor) if one must have the connection on the shaker circuit. The problem is, most people don't have a wide selection of resistors laying around. I build guitar pedals and amplifiers, so I had a wide selection on hand to experiment with when I made the adjustments myself. I used temporary jumpers until I settled on a value, and then soldered/shrink wrapped it in.

20210722_165518 (resized).jpg
#11044 4 months ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

Wow, I'm surprised the trigger pulls some current. Lots of ways to design a trigger that essentially needs next to nothing for current.

You can't escape Ohm's law.

1 week later
#11162 4 months ago
Quoted from chickenscratch:

Here’s a pic and a current video. Doesn’t happen often on auto plunge, took me like 17 tries, just sucks when it happens mid-game when you really don’t want it to, and when it does, it’s typically 2-3 times in a row and then another dozen good launches. I’ll check the coil sleeve next.
[quoted image]

This can't be helping:

Screenshot_20210730-221356_Chrome (resized).jpg
#11166 4 months ago
Quoted from chickenscratch:

That’s what the double washer does, it’s the point. Without that it almost never makes the plunge correctly.

Maybe it's just the photo, but it looks like the end sticks up like a ski ramp. If the ball is hitting a single point first, it will make it go to one side, then start bouncing back and forth.

1 week later
#11210 3 months ago
Quoted from ralphs007:

I'm thinking of buying a Jurassic Park Premium but I'm a casual player,and I'm wondering if this game will drive me crazy. I've read that it's a players game,and I'm far from a player. I played one yesterday,and I had a great time,even though I didn't know what to shoot for. I'm gonna try out an Elvira's House of Horrors this coming Friday, and that's when I'll make my decision on which game I'm gonna buy.
I tried out a bunch of new games at Pinfest in Allentown,but I seemed to enjoy JP the most out of all of the new pins out there.
I owned a Dialed In,and it was fun,but also very frustrating at times! The shot in JP you have to hit to launch a missile,kind of reminds me of that bastard Sim card shot in Dialed In.

I started my collection with a Gottlieb 80B, and a NIB JP Pro. After countless hours, I finally got the 80B running reliably. Once I did, I found myself playing the simple, older game much less. Guests would play a game or two, then ignore it for the rest of the visit, even though JP was much more difficult. It was like asking my kids if they wanted to play checkers, or X-Box.

I traded the 80B towards a Munsters after being surprised at how much fun it was on location. Most guests loved that machine, but once again, I kept finding myself playing 3x as much on JP. I played Munsters every time I went to the basement, but it was the warmup for JP.

I subsequently traded the Munsters towards a AIQ Premium, and fell into a deal I couldn't pass up on a SW Premium. Those are both very deep and difficult games. I now play them more than JP, I presume because they are new. The point is, I think difficult/deep games will keep your attention far longer, and keep you hitting the start button for "just one more game." I still think a JP Pro is the best bang for the buck in pinball, especially for a one game collection. You already know you like the game, so it isn't so difficult as to not be fun for you.

No matter what, deciding which pinball machine to buy is a great first world problem that I'm thankful to share. I'm sure that you will have a blast no matter what you end up with.

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