Jurassic Park (30th Anniversary LE)
Stern, 2023
Jurassic Park (Limited Edition)
Stern, 2019
Jurassic Park (Premium)
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Just put a Premium at my house! Reading through the thread, though is this a common complaint that the helipad flasher is too exposed and blinding to the player? It is for me..(exposed lights bug me). I saw one person use a Pteranodon wing to cover it, but has something better been devised?
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Version 1.03 is out! Mainly adding DJ mode.
Though....maybe I'm doing something wrong. To totally kill the current game on newer sterns, can't you hold the left flipper and start button at the same time to go back to attract mode?
OK, I've tried googling "jurassic park ball trap helicopter" but don't see any posts. I keep getting ball traps in the helicopter blades. Do I need to add different washer weights on the blades or ? It seems like it could always be a possibility to get a ball trap here if the blades catch the ball at just the right time?
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:I just referenced the manual. Take a look at Standard Adjustments / SPI / #19 (Match Percentage). Try setting this to 0 (if an option) to see what happens.
For fun, you could set it to 100% (not sure if that is even an option).
IMDN has an option to turn off the end game match feature...I would be surprised if JP doesn't....
Quoted from Gogdog:OK, I've tried googling "jurassic park ball trap helicopter" but don't see any posts. I keep getting ball traps in the helicopter blades. Do I need to add different washer weights on the blades or ? It seems like it could always be a possibility to get a ball trap here if the blades catch the ball at just the right time?
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Ok...thanks for the advice. Though...it looks like the main issue is that my helicopter is leaning to the right.
Which means the short blades can make contact and "bind" the ball.
The angle of the helicopter is completely determined by the plastic its attached to...which....this doesn't look right at all ->
Even if I removed the washer under that post, it won't fix all of that bowing. Can someone take a picture of their post under the helicopter plastic please?
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:I just finished my Jeep conversion, and thought I would share. I know there are others who have shown how to do it, but I thought I would walk everyone through my process which was quite simple and yielded perfect results.
With that stated, here we go...
First of all, you need the Jada 1/43 scale Jeep. You can typically find these on Ebay, but may have to come from China depending upon current auctions. Even thought the body is wider, the Jeep has pretty much an identical footprint of the OEM one. Also, you will want to hot glue the doors shut or use some other method to secure them. I opened the door, lined the jam with hot glue, then held it closed for several seconds while the glue firmed.
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To remove the Jeep FIRST REMOVE THE BALLS then lift the playfield and you'll use a 3/32" hex wrench to loosen the locks screw on the shaft (pay attention to the orientation of the metal tab as this is what triggers the optos). When removing this be sure to hold onto the Jeep on the topside or it may slide out and damage something. Also, there are 3 washers on the topside including a ball bearing washer. If you lose or break this, your jeep will not rotate properly.
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Carefully pull out the jeep assembly from the topside, again paying careful attention to catch the 3 washers. When removed set the washers aside, remove the 4 screws holding the jeep to the shaft plate, and also remove the nut & washer holding the newton ball on the shaft to get it out of the way.
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Now you will want to test position the jeep on the plate so that you know where it needs to sit. This is important for both balance and clearance from the helix when the Jeep is rotating. The proper alignment is where the washer from the center posts is touching the extended plastic around the rear axle of jeep.
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Turn the Jeep over and position the plate where the extension is towards the rear of the model. The plate will need to be centered horizontally with the two rear holes straddling the raised piece, and again the washer should be touching the base of the raised rear axle plastic.
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Holding the bracket in place you will want to drill a pilot hole for one of the back screws (do not drill all 4 holes at once. Do them one at a time to ensure proper alignment). I used a 1/16" bit for the pilot holes which worked perfect with the original screws. Once a rear hole is drilled, then insert a screw an tighten to where it is just snug. Don't over do this or you will strip the plastic.
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Next, drill the pilot hole for the screw that is catty-corner to the first one you did (e.g. if you started with the back right, next will be the front left). When doing the front screws don't over tighten them. You want the metal plate to be parallel to the bottom of the Jeep instead of slanting towards the front. Ideally you would use spacers on the front (I didn't have any, but will probably retrofit them later).
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Repeat the process with the remaining two screws.
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When finished, the underside of the assembly should look like this.
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Reattach the newton ball to the shaft, put the 3 washer assembly back on the shaft, then insert the shaft into the hole on the topside of the playfield. On the bottom side of the playfield slide the collar back on paying attention to the orientation, then tighten the set screw. You will want to leave about 1 mm of clearance between the collar and the bushing, otherwise the Jeep will not rotate freely. However, don't make this gap too large or the metal tab may scrape the lower optos causing less than ideal rotation or worse yet hit the side of the optos and not make the full rotation.
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Lower the playfield and rotate the Jeep both ways by hand and even by manually slamming the stationary ball with a pinball. You should have a nice smooth full rotation with good clearance at both front and rear.
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Finally, add all of the balls back into the game and play a few practice balls. When you are happy with your installation replace the glass and your ready to enjoy your new Jeep!
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I also wanted to mention that while I've not done it yet I may paint the metal bracket that sticks out from behind the jeep black in order to make it less noticable.
Thanks for this. Though....I added my jeep about 4 hours before your post following the original instructions, though yours were clearer and made note of the potential pitfalls of the installation. Mine would have gone much faster/better if I had simply waited a bit!
Now...you have a premium JP....so which helicopter mod are you looking to add on next?
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:This is the helicopter I purchased and plan on installing. I know there are a few writeups in the thread currently, but I haven't seen a step-by-step with photos. I'm a little less confident on how to do this one, but I'll read everything there is about it before I undertake it. I'll do my best to document my process and share what I can.
Did you get yours from Ebay from great britain? Several sellers have it there (in a 2 pack with a plane, so you would get 2 cars, 1 heli, and 1 plane) but shipping is $15 or so.
And...while we are talking about helicopters....can someone take a picture of what this area looks like on theirs? It doesn't look right, and is making my helicopter lean, creating ball traps.
Quoted from Hokie822:I cant find that blue chopper anywhere on ebay.
ebay.com link: Matchbox Movie Jurassic World Land and Air Vehicle Diecast Collection 2 Pack Set
Quoted from yzfguy:I removed both of those posts. So far so good, they seem pretty unnecessary.
You removed both of the posts? It seems there would be a potential ball trap there then?
Anyway...after taking the area apart...it almost seems like the different type of metal post was intentional. I mean, they definitely had to use different screws and everything to attach it.
I don't have an extra plastic post to use currently, so my initial plan was to just take the one from the back and use it up front. I.e., convert it from a 3 post to a 2 post rubber.
But....the post is really tight to the ball guide.
I'm thinking....that someone on the line decided to use the other type of post which is skinnier, so the rubber doesn't get cut or squeezed by the ball guide. You can see that in my original picture ->
A better plan....might be to just dremel off some of the top of the post so its just not as tall and keep using it.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:After my Jeep installation success and positive reviews here in the forum, I was feeling confident and proud of myself so I decided to take on the helicopter install. Unfortunately for me, I was somewhat humbled. On a difficulty scale of 1-10 I would be the Jeep around a 4, but the helicopter is a solid 8 – not impossible, but it takes a little skill, patience, and lots of test fitting. Also, this post is not intended to be the only way to do the helicopter mod. This is the way that I did it. It worked well for me, so I thought I would share as a guide for others who wish to incorporate the same mod.
So with that stated, here I go. To begin with this is the helicopter you will need for modifying the horizontal spinner on your Premium/LE. In addition, the following tools would be ideal for this installation: a drill press, a step bit, a belt or disk sander, misc. drill bits, a Dremel tool with grinding/sanding bits, a hammer, a punch, and a Philips screwdriver. Unfortunately, I don’t own a drill press, step bit, or belt/disk sander, so I made due with some alternative tools: an electric hand drill, various sized drill bits, an electric block sander, and a pneumatic right angle grinder. I’m sure you can make do with other tools, but these are what I used. Also, be sure to wear work gloves when drilling, sanding, etc.
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Here is what the OEM setup looks like on Premium/LE
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To begin, remove the lockbar and glass then raise the playfield and rest it the black rubber feet on the lockbar receiver. Next carefully remove the screw holding the spinning blades while paying attention to the washer stack and catching it when you remove the screw. Be aware that when you remove the screw completely the metal rod will fall down through the playfield. This is okay as it will not actually fully separate and fall down into the cabinet. Once removed, set everything aside.
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The next step is to separate the plastic bottom from the metal shell of the chopper by drilling out the two rivets that hold them together on the underside of the model. I used a 9/64” bit to do this, but anything close to that will work. When positioning the chopper to drill the rivets be mindful of not breaking the rear rotor. When drilling the front rivet I hung the back off the table, and will drilling the back I supported the tail.
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Unfortunately, the rivets didn’t drill clean for me so I finished the job with a hammer and punch, and I was able to separate the two pieces. When separated you can easily remove the landing gear which you will dispose of.
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Next is to begin drilling the hole in the top of the chopper for the shaft to fit through. Ultimately this hole needs to be 11.5mm (29/64”) in diameter, but you can’t get there all at once. Start by turning the part upside down and marking the spot where you want to drill (this exact center of the current post that the blades are attached to. Of course you will have to estimate, but it is pretty simple to get it right. Then punch the mark to prepare for drilling the pilot hole.
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For the initial pilot hole I used a 3/16” drill bit which was the perfect size for drilling through and popping off the blade post. You’ll see that my hole wasn’t exactly centered nor a perfect circle, but that’s fine as there is opportunity to fix that as I enlarged the hole.
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I next used my angle grinder with a tapered stone bit to enlarge and true the hole in the top of the chopper.
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I then progressively used incremental sized drill bits to enlarge the hole working my way up to 11.5mm (29/64”), and then used my grinder to smooth the rough edges of the drilled hole.
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Next, I attached the bottom and marked down through the hole where I needed to drill out the base. Again, I started with a pilot hole but then went straight to the 29/64” bit. Be sure to do this on a block and not just holding it in midair as you want to drill the hole cleanly and centered.
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Now it’s time for the first of many test fits. Slide the joined chopper down over the post and see what your clearance looks like. You need the top of the cylinder to be just exactly or a hair above the roof line of the chopper. Obviously, at this point it won’t be.
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Next comes sanding with some fairly course sandpaper to take off some of the plastic from the base. I can’t imagine doing this by hand, but I’m sure it is possible with enough effort. When sanding don’t overdo it.
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Sand a little, test fit, sand some more. Also, have the chopper together so that you have something to hold on to, and while sanding keep it flat at the point of the hole (the nose will arc up some). You can see in the photos how much I ended up having to sand off the base. When test fitting, you’ll want the top of the chopper to be just slightly above the top of the shaft
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The next step is to cut out holes/slots for the 3 screws on the helipad so that the chopper sits down around them. Place the chopper over the shaft and use a Sharpie to mark on the base where you need to cutout plastic for the 3 screws. I used my angle grinder here, but a Dremel too would also be a good tool for the job. Note the 3 spots where I had to cut away plastic for the base to fit over the screws. When I did this it took several test fits as I only wanted to cutaway as little material as necessary. You’ll notice that a large piece of my bottom is missing, and this occurred with sanding as it became very thin. No worries, I just removed it and since the chopper sits down flush I’ll never see it.
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Upon test fitting after the screws were accounted for, I was still 1-2 mm too tall. Instead of sanding away more plastic and risk destroying that piece, my solution was to lower the top of the chopper. I covered it with a cloth then used a wood block and hammer to beat it down slightly.
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Again, I was very careful and test fitted between whacks 2 or 3 times until the shaft was just flush with the top of the chopper.
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I then reinstalled the spinner. To do this you’ll need to have all of your parts nearby. Use one hand to reach under the pin and push the metal rod up, and use the other hand to put the washer stack and the blades back onto the rod and then start the screw and washer into the threads so that the rod doesn’t fall back down. Tighten the screw as best as you can. You can’t really grip the rod under the playfield very well, but I did my best with a pair of long needle nose pliers.
Now’s the time to test the spinner by hand to see how well you’ve done, and if you need to make any adjustments. In my case I soon realize that the blades were hitting the tail rotor on occasion. My solution here was to position the tail rotor where the blades did not hit it and apply a dab of hot melt glue to secure it in place.
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Finally, the job was complete. I chose not to use any adhesive to secure the chopper as it is really not necessary and it would raise it a little. Now that I know everything fits and works perfectly, I may install a red LED inside the chopper and tie it to the adjacent dome light. Also, I’ll probably use a few spots of superglue on the inside to secure the base to the top of the chopper.
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Well, there you have it. Good luck with the mod, and feel free to offer any insights you gained while installing this mod that I didn’t address.
Really....a great writeup. The community thanks you!
And....in your pic....I noticed THIS is what stern should have put in mine but instead used too long of a post.
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I went ahead and put the posts where they originally went on mine, and dremeled and sanded the top of my post. So now it looks like this ->
As you can see....the plastic is still bent and I'm hoping that it "relaxes" with time, but I'm sure it will never lay flat again. It is better, but the ball can still touch the short blade and get potentially caught.
I may reach out to stern and see if they will send me just the one plastic.
Edit: My JP was born June 2020....so new premium/LE owners might want to take a look under their helicopter to see what post they have on theirs.
Quoted from Gogdog:Really....a great writeup. The community thanks you!
And....in your pic....I noticed THIS is what stern should have put in mine but instead used too long of a post.
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I went ahead and put the posts where they originally went on mine, and dremeled and sanded the top of my post. So now it looks like this ->
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As you can see....the plastic is still bent and I'm hoping that it "relaxes" with time, but I'm sure it will never lay flat again. It is better, but the ball can still touch the short blade and get potentially caught.
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I may reach out to stern and see if they will send me just the one plastic.
Edit: My JP was born June 2020....so new premium/LE owners might want to take a look under their helicopter to see what post they have on theirs.
As an update...Stern really had some good customer service for me and got back to me VERY quickly with my email and is sending out the plastic.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:It was “Plant a Tree” day at the park, and things look a little greener now. Here is my original post explaining my planting methodology:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/140#post-5863800
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Just curious....lots of different companies make model train trees....though I like the look of yours. Which ones did you buy/what link?
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:I made some clear ones for the signs, and they definitely help visually to see them when lit. However, I also ordered some of these yesterday and tested them. I actually like them better than the 3D printed ones I made. A couple of you ordered some lenses from me, so when I send them to you I'm also going to include the same number of rubber ones so that you can decide and apply whichever you like best.
amazon.com link »
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Also, I may have enough orange to print 1 or 2 sets of 3 lenses for the raptor pit ($4 including US postage). If a couple of people are interested I'll see how many I can print and them offer them to however many I can based upon response order.
I love mods from common household items! I just happened to have some already at the house and can confirm that they work great. Really highlights them since it makes them 3d, and the round edges become raised and lit.
Quoted from 2manyhobbies:Brontosaurus just added today let me know what you you all think.
Next is the Pterodactyl and I have to plant some trees[quoted image][quoted image]
Also, I need to do some planting too. Is that just some hotglue holding those trees on?
Just a reality check. So, how smooth is everyone's spitter spinner to orbit? I swear most of the time when taking a center shot, that it is really clunky and dribbles when hitting the orbit ball guide, and more often than not goes into the pops instead of going around the orbit to the right flipper.
Should it go to right flipper most (80%+) of the time on successful center shot or is this a known clunky shot?
Quoted from Manny65:If I hit the spinner with the right flipper it'll have a lot more power in the shot and go around the orbit to the right spinner, however the left flipper will have less power in the shot and is more likely to drop into the pops (in doing so lighting the Lite escape target). So I can pick & choose what I want
Also check that your up post in the orbit is flush with the PF
Yeah, I just adjusted it to be a tiny bit higher, but initial thoughts seem like it didn't matter much. I think with just how the guide is shaped and how the orbit guide is fairly flat, it has a lot more variance in how different shots behave. Some will go around to the orbit, some will hit the orbit guide at a bad angle and go to pops....etc. Its just a randomizer type center shot.
Quoted from RetroGamerJP:Alternate process for Helicopter mod install (no grinding or sanding)
I got my helicopter in over the weekend and decided to install today. Many thanks to the brave souls before me who originally figured this out and shared with all of us... I wanted to see if I could find a way to install without having to grind away the bottom or deform the top in order for it to fit. Good news is, it can be done quite easily, and without having to take apart the copter. (unless you are trying to also do the cockpit light mod.
Basically with a pair of large needle-nose pliers, I grabbed the original rotor and with a couple of rocks back and forth, you can snap it off leaving a perfect guide hole. I also use the same pliers to snap off the lander gears. The remaining part of the landing gears may fall into the body of copter but they will come out later when you drill the larger holes.
Then on my drill press I used a 5/32" bit to go through the guide hole at top and straight down to create guide hole in bottom. Next, using a stepper bit on drill press I make a 1/2" hole through bottom plastic, this is the size of the shaft in the game you will be sliding copter over.
The trick to this method is to go with a larger hole on the top. Using the same stepper bit, I drill out top hole to a 5/8" hole, this allows for the washers and bearing to sit inside of the copter (instead of above it) and gives us the clearance needed without having to grind off the bottom of the copter.
You can see in the final pictures that the copter sits in perfectly with just enough clearance for the blades to spin and all without grinding away any material. You don't need to do anything to secure the copter, it naturally sits in the perfect spot and doesn't move at all. I also decided to remove the remaining hex posts (since they were only there to hold original helicopter plastic) and just put 6-32 nuts in place to clean that area up. I also did as others have done and placed a small dab of hot glue on the rear propeller to hold it in the perfect position to make sure the main rotor misses it during rotation.
Everything spins and functions as it should and it truly looks like it could have come from the factory this way. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I'm liking it. And my helicopter just arrived so I was just about to start working on this.
So, with your system, we are just making a larger hole at the top, which does put a small "gap" on the side of the helicopter which is a downside. But....you now get a full bottom to the helicopter and the blades are more flush with the top of the helicopter.
Your way: (note full bottom, blades closer to top of helicopter, though a cut out (missing plastic) at the top.
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Verse Mr tantrum way: (lose part of bottom, blades sit higher off the helicopter)
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Ease of install definitely goes to the new way.
And you took off the aluminum long spacers, but does that create a ball trap?
Quoted from yzfguy:I haven't had a ball go up near the copter since removing my hex posts. I prefer the bottom shaved off to the opening on the side. You are looking at this from the top, and the blades don't look too far from the body to me.
I think I'm the opposite, and would rather have a full bottom. Another difference is that yes...the new one has part of the plastic missing up top, but shaving the bottom means you have to create a hole at the bottom for the screw, so really you are just changing one hole location for another.
Quoted from RetroGamerJP:The extra material missing from up top is not really noticeable when installed. Personally I just prefer this method vs. Cracking open the copter, having to grind down the bottom and/or hammering down the top for the necessary clearance. Just feels cleaner and less intrusive to me BUT the whole point of sharing is so that people see options and can be comfortable doing, whichever path they choose.
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And you said that the helicopter just "fits" in place...but what is keeping it from rotating/turning? Did you apply a tiny bit of hot glue so it doesn't move at all?
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Glad to see the ingenuity and that people now have a couple of options. I think this alternative way would definitely be easier and quicker to do, but in the end it probably comes down to where you want your modifications to show and what tools you have to do the job.
Also, you could still potentially follow my guide for illuminating the chopper mounted this way, but I think you would need to drill out the rivets in order to separate the parts to properly mount the LED and run the wires. Again, might be an alternative way to do this too (e.g. drilling a hole in the nose from the bottom and running the wires externally), but I'll leave that up to someone else to figure out.
Since you are directly soldering to the led boards, I think an easier way would be to use a pico or micro LED instead of the 1 SMD comet matrix strip. Much smaller head on them, so would only need a tiny hole. I'm thinking Micro LED for a bit more light, and in yellow, tied to the helipad LED. Most come with resistors already soldered on (but resistors are super cheap anyway), and the leds from aliexpress (super cheap).
Any ideas here? My ramp cover plastic keeps coming loose. I can loctite the front ramp posts since its a screw going into metal, but this last screw is just going into the plastic of the microswitch.
I was thinking of maybe just putting a dab of hot glue on top of the screw? I don't really need that back area "tight"...but need the screw there so the ramp metal flap on the side of the ramp stays in place.
Quoted from Manny65:Is the screw hole chopped out a bit and unable to hold the screw tight? The opto plastic bracket on some games can get stripped/damaged and are easy enough to replace. Possibly if the front screws have loosened then it may have overloaded that screw in the plastic bracket. I'd suggest replacing the opto bracket and using locktite on the front screws might be enough
Yeah....the plastic bracket must be threaded out now. And I think you are right...its a new pin but its had issues with all 3 screws coming loose, and the front post screws have been loose and must have overloaded the back screw that is holding the opto.
For now, I put loctite on the front screws, and...even though its ghetto, put hot glue on the back screw just to hold it to the plastic.
Quoted from 2manyhobbies:Did you have this apart at some time maybe replacing rubbers or something? Mine does not have the black spacer under that rear area.
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The whole cover has come off several times from getting loose. I found the black spacer at one point and I couldn't figure out anywhere else where it could have gone, and so I thought it would go there. Especially since the nut under the plastic scraped up the cover on mine. I figured that the spacer was there to protect the cover from getting scratched here, and it got scratched when the spacer was gone.
Quoted from fooflighter:I just found a slightly longer bigger screw for mine as the opto threads also stripped, put in a little locktite and whalla...no ghetto glue ...been holding up 2000+ games now
Oh nice...I'll see what I have screw wise.
Quoted from 2manyhobbies:Did a little tree planting today and finally got around to adding a light MOD for the helicopter, thanks for the direction on that one Mr_Tantrum!
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Looks great! What did you use for the clear washers at the bottom of the trees?
Quoted from holminone:Just joined the club! Awesome game. I have a couple of questions and the history in this forum is still not clear.
1) Flipper positioning. According to Keith Elwin, the flippers should align to factory tiny holes where the bottom flippers align to the "middle of the hole". Elwin says specifically- "Correct for the bottom flippers. Top flipper the hole aligns to the top of the bat."
Question 1) Where are the "holes"? There are no holes in the classic B/W sense- but I do see tiny imperfections that can be passed for holes. (see photo). I assume the "holes" are the tiny imperfections that look like clear coated holes at the tip of the flipper?
Question 2). When Elwin says "Top flipper the hole aligns to the "top of the bat". What exactly is the top of the bat? Does he mean the rubber face edge that makes contact with the ball? The plastic face edge of the bat? WHERE EXACTLY should the top flipper be aligned? Where should the bottom ones be aligned?My game's top flipper is aligned such that a completely missed high speed loop shot will direct the ball to the center of the lower left flipper. The ball avoids the post at the tip of the bat. The problem I think with his positioning is the left play field shots feel kind of clunky and the shots not struck towards the tip of the bat invariably go into the captive ball/jeep. What is the correct positioning? Should a missed shot nick the post rubber and deflect? Curious to all your thoughts...
2) Spinner shot slowing down. Kind of feels by design for the ball to not fly through there. Just want to confirm. Here is a good video on found of the actual ball behavior. https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=hRCBeKAZIH4&feature=youtu.be# Looking for confirmation here on if this rattling/slowing down is expected, or if it should be faster.[quoted image][quoted image]
I have the same experience with my spinner, where many shots don't make an orbit and are clunky. I would love to hear from others though and see how abnormal it is.
Quoted from RetroGamerJP:EDIT - I managed to find a few copters on Amazon so if you are interested in getting one of these pre-modded and ready to drop into your machine, send me a PM.
Alternate process for Helicopter mod install (no grinding or sanding)
I got my helicopter in over the weekend and decided to install today. Many thanks to the brave souls before me who originally figured this out and shared with all of us... I wanted to see if I could find a way to install without having to grind away the bottom or deform the top in order for it to fit. Good news is, it can be done quite easily, and without having to take apart the copter. (unless you are trying to also do the cockpit light mod.
Basically with a pair of large needle-nose pliers, I grabbed the original rotor and with a couple of rocks back and forth, you can snap it off leaving a perfect guide hole. I also use the same pliers to snap off the lander gears. The remaining part of the landing gears may fall into the body of copter but they will come out later when you drill the larger holes.
Then on my drill press I used a 5/32" bit to go through the guide hole at top and straight down to create guide hole in bottom. Next, using a stepper bit on drill press I make a 1/2" hole through bottom plastic, this is the size of the shaft in the game you will be sliding copter over.
The trick to this method is to go with a larger hole on the top. Using the same stepper bit, I drill out top hole to a 5/8" hole, this allows for the washers and bearing to sit inside of the copter (instead of above it) and gives us the clearance needed without having to grind off the bottom of the copter.
You can see in the final pictures that the copter sits in perfectly with just enough clearance for the blades to spin and all without grinding away any material. You don't need to do anything to secure the copter, it naturally sits in the perfect spot and doesn't move at all. I also decided to remove the remaining hex posts (since they were only there to hold original helicopter plastic) and just put 6-32 nuts in place to clean that area up. I also did as others have done and placed a small dab of hot glue on the rear propeller to hold it in the perfect position to make sure the main rotor misses it during rotation.
Everything spins and functions as it should and it truly looks like it could have come from the factory this way.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
So...started working on this mod. I have two ideas:
1. I didn't want to make a 5/8" hole to have the washers under the blades fit into the helicopter. Instead....I bought one of these for $13.65 shipped ->
https://www.onlinebearingstore.com/f6-12g-miniature-thrust-ball-bearing-6x12x4-5-grooved.html
Basically....its the same concept that stern used with their 2 metal washers and ball bearing plastic ring. But....its thinner. So, its 6mm interior diameter (same as the sterns), but 12mm outside diameter. The sterns were 14mm. Its the same height (4.5mm). This way....I can just drill a 1/2" hole at the top and the ball bearings will fit inside the helicopter. It should be the best of both worlds ....no sanding and mechanism fits inside helicopter, but the same size hole as mr tantrum's design.
That is...if it works. I should have an update soon.
2. Instead of use comet matrix red LEDs tied to the combo flasher, I bought these ->
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32837133341.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.6ab94c4dck63nI
I use smaller 0402 leds for various other mods (like light up eyes in AFMr...see here -> https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/attack-from-mars-remake-afmr-owners-club/page/162#post-5406613 ). These are sewing thread thickness stuff. Amazing stuff.
I'm using 0805 LEDs, in yellow, for this mod since I want it to be brighter, but the head is still incredibly small and the wires are still incredibly thing, so I can use the front landing gear hole of the helicopter directly with these wires. Then, I'll tie it into the actual yellow helicopter LED.
When both of these items come in I will give an update!
Quoted from ProjektPat:Does anyone have any experience just ordering some plastic palm trees from amazon? They're like 1/10 the price than from the mod shops.
The mod shops are just buying them from China and marking them up. Most amazon sellers are just direct sales from china or drop shipping the items from china. Same with Ebay. I do like these that I bought from Ebay ->
ebay.com link: 12 Model Coconut Palm Trees HO N OO Scale Train Diorama Beach Forest Scenery
I cut off the bottom spike, then used hot glue and the hot glue is easily strong enough to hold them. I previously bought these from amazon ->
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005SN5VLC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title
But...they looked more fake, and weren't big enough. Ebay ones were just right. Here is a pic ->
Quoted from mpdpvdpin:Yes, I bought a bag of 30 various sizes on eBay for like $12… When you get them in snip the trees to the length you like and then drill a 1/16 hole in the bottom, insert 1/16 music wire with few inches hanging out (I put a bit of JB Weld on the wire inside the palm so they wouldn’t slide out when I lift the playfield) then wrap the wire around existing screw posts. I put like...18 in the game. LOh also...Put two near the Trex head so he shakes them around while you play. Adds an extra element to the wow factor haha.
[quoted image]
Thats an interesting idea too with using wire and screws...thanks!
Quoted from ProjektPat:I'd like to give an update on some mods I've installed. I mentioned earlier the 3D raptor toy that was poorly done. Well today I got a box of mods from mezel mods and I'd like to give people a cautionary tale.
First up I went to install the spinning helicopter mod. The instructions say to just pull on the post and unscrew it and it will come undone. This was NOT the case. This took me about an hour to accomplish. The screw underneath would just spin with the post no matter what. I had to get a pair of needlenose pliers to get underneath it and grab the tiny screw while unscrewing it. Even doing this was INCREDIBLY difficult. My hands are all torn up and it took me an hour all said and done. Instructions were very poor. Also in the instructions it shows there's 3 pieces of tape stuck to the bottom. I only got one unattached that I had to cut up into smaller pieces.
Secondly I got the raptor pen mod. The instructions and pictures on their page make it seem like it comes with 2 pieces of wire. Instead I got 1 and it was all wrapped around itself which led to the wire being all bent up. The biggest issue however was that one of the pegs that have the holes that you thread the wire through was broken off at some point in the manufacturing process. It wasn't anywhere in the box so it must have happened on location. Also the idea that you're supposed to be able to easily tape on the 10,000 volt sign onto the wire is pretty silly. There's no way it would have held on it was just barely hanging on. I ended up super gluing it to the wire.
Overall given what I paid I'm pretty unimpressed.
That being said I took the instructions of 2manyhobbies and added the brachiosaurus and it looks great.
I just put a piece of duct tape on the back of the 10,000 volt sign (so the wire is sandwiched between the sign and the duct tape), and seems to be holding up well.
I do agree with you though, that it was a bit of a bummer that the mod had to be "built" instead of just taping it down.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:I've actually created a better sign design that can be used on Mezel's raptor pit (or mine) as well as other areas such as the helipad where some people have put wiring. I sell them for $10 for 2 and they include your choice of sign on front.
You run the wire through the holes and bend in center around block to prevent rotation.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I tried google search but didn't find it....do you happen to have a pic of someone with wiring around their helipad?
Anyway, nice mod though. If mine starts showing like its about to fall all, I'll definitely order.
Quoted from Gogdog:So...started working on this mod. I have two ideas:
1. I didn't want to make a 5/8" hole to have the washers under the blades fit into the helicopter. Instead....I bought one of these for $13.65 shipped ->
https://www.onlinebearingstore.com/f6-12g-miniature-thrust-ball-bearing-6x12x4-5-grooved.html
Basically....its the same concept that stern used with their 2 metal washers and ball bearing plastic ring. But....its thinner. So, its 6mm interior diameter (same as the sterns), but 12mm outside diameter. The sterns were 14mm. Its the same height (4.5mm). This way....I can just drill a 1/2" hole at the top and the ball bearings will fit inside the helicopter. It should be the best of both worlds ....no sanding and mechanism fits inside helicopter, but the same size hole as mr tantrum's design.
That is...if it works. I should have an update soon.
2. Instead of use comet matrix red LEDs tied to the combo flasher, I bought these ->
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32837133341.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.6ab94c4dck63nI
I use smaller 0402 leds for various other mods (like light up eyes in AFMr...see here -> https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/attack-from-mars-remake-afmr-owners-club/page/162#post-5406613 ). These are sewing thread thickness stuff. Amazing stuff.
I'm using 0805 LEDs, in yellow, for this mod since I want it to be brighter, but the head is still incredibly small and the wires are still incredibly thing, so I can use the front landing gear hole of the helicopter directly with these wires. Then, I'll tie it into the actual yellow helicopter LED.
When both of these items come in I will give an update!
Ok, finally got around to doing this mod.
First....I would have had much better results if I had a drill press. However....once the helicopter blades are on, you really can't notice at all. I did do the no sanding way, which worked fine. If I had a drill press....both sides would have looked like ->
instead of here where I screwed up with the drill.
Of course...that is the side that matters. But again, you really can not see this area once installed.
To get the helicopter lower, I went ahead and removed the two front screws of the landing pad, and used a dremel to remove some plastic for the rear screw. That was really easy. I also dremeled some space for the wires.
As for lighting...I first used the 0805 yellow LEDs that came in (I tied this lighting to the yellow helicopter helipad LED which was fairly straightforward). The thread is so small that you can put the wiring right in from the front of the helicopter.
For wiring, I also installed a JST connector so I can disconnect the helicopter if needed. You can get like...100 prewired JST connectors from aliexpress for like $3. Here shows just how small the led is. And that is the "large" size. I use 0402 leds for some other pinball mods.
However....it was not bright enough.
So instead, I used a red 3mm LED that I happened to have laying around, and its better (I went out the back with this wiring).
But it only lights up half the cockpit. So for $3, I ordered a pack of 20 yellow 3mm leds and I'll use 2 for the cockpit. I also already soldered the micro led so I'll attach that to the back rotor as an accessory light which should look pretty good.
Oh....ok, and the miniature thrust ball bearing works well (so you only have to drill a 1/2" hole instead of 5/8" with this method). It does add to the cost by about $13. Honestly....I think I would have just drilled a 5/8" hole and used the original #10 washers and bearings, but whatever. But, ...the 2 washers that came with the thrust ball bearing, the interior diameter was NOT big enough. Thankfully, the bearing itself was. I tried drilling out the washers that came with it, but it was TOO strong of metal. So instead, I just took a #8 washer, and drilled out the size with a 1/4" drill bit, and sanded with a dremel bit.
Once I get the new yellow LEDs, I'll repost and FINALLY be done with this mod.
Quoted from yzfguy:Not sure what you're talking about with the washers and bearings? This copter should just slip over the existing shaft.
I used a different size washer/bearing. ->
Quoted from Manny65:Oh ... the wireform is moving around, now I'm with ya
The wireform is held in position by the nut on the slingshot plastic, are you able to loosening the nut and push the wireform up towards the U ramp to lock in in position up there and then re-tighten the nut?
[quoted image]
Thats an interesting idea...you took off the helipad plastic to further lower the helicopter. Your model looks decent too...could you take a side pic of your helicopter setup?
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Those pics are clearly overexposed. Anyway you can filter exposure with something that looks more accurate to in-person view and repost pics?
IMDN comes with cool white....most people switched to comet sunlight. Sunlight I think looks great.
Quoted from EaglePin:Shouldn't happen at all. I'm pretty sure there have been posts about similar issues in the past in this forum or the JP2 Prem/LE forum but I just did a quick search and couldn't find one. I haven't ever had it happen on mine. I'd think you should be able to adjust the position of the blades or the wire form. Probably only a slight adjustment needed for it.
Here you go guys...sorry that it is happening to several of you.
Read my posts on that page.
Quoted from Green-Machine:In your picture you clearly have the wrong post under it
Yeah....as I described later down in the page. I had stern replace the bent plastic as well, since the wrong post (installed at factory) caused it to bend. Now the helicopter works great.
If your helicopter is not leaning (its perfectly perpendicular), and the wireform can't be adjusted any further right, then I have no idea what would be causing the issue. The ball should not touch a small blade at all. Perhaps take some pictures?
Quoted from MrMikeman:That last picture says it all. Your wireform is bent/attached too close to the spinner/switch.
I'm not seeing it from his last picture that the wireform itself is bent...how are you able to tell there? But here are some comparison shots
In his last picture....I think its odd that the screw/washer weighted short blade is causing a hang up. It should be high enough that it catches the top of the sphere and allows to roll past ->
And the short blade with nothing on it shouldn't even touch it
Quoted from Jakers:Thanks for the info. I was able to move the wireform a bit away from the helicopter and it helped. It can still get stuck on the short blade but a small nudge will free it. For the record, my game has the wrong post as well which is causing the helicopter to tilt toward the wireform. I’ll replace that post soon.
[quoted image]
Yep, that looks like mine did. But....unfortunately just replacing the post won't help completely....the plastic is permanently bent. Stern did send me a new one under warranty.
Quoted from Faust:I’m working on my helicopter and was going to add a light that is connected to the flasher; what voltage are the flashers? 12v?
I bought these in 12V ->
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32889333164.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.7cbf4c4d8KQm52
Usually they work in a wide range of Voltages. Like, I currently have a red 3mm inside the helicopter from lighthouseleds ->
https://lighthouseleds.com/3mm-12v-pre-wired-led-red-ultra-bright-15-000-mcd.html
And as you can see, they work with many voltages. And....lighthouseleds is really just getting them from china...I have both now and they look the exact same but lighthouse sells at a large markup.
Anyway, I am planning on hooking up 2 yellow lights inside the helicopter (tied to the yellow flasher) but have been lazy. Maybe I'll do it today!
You can buy 5V from aliexpress, but if you buy the 12V, you don't have to worry about blowing out the LED if you connect it to a 12V socket later.
Though...I have a multimeter...I should have checked the voltage on the board first but...whatever.
Quoted from Faust:I finally took time to add the heli and took
a slightly different approach.
I moved the sleeve for the rod to under the plastic.
Benefit; only a small hole on
the top of the helicopter is required and you gain some space so the heli wheels can stay on!
I tried the heli blades from Mezel but now moved back to the original ones
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Sorry, I don't quite understand this. So now you have 1 washer on top of the helipad...so where is the ball bearing washer and the 3rd washer?
Quoted from swampfire:This is actually one pin that doesn’t need a manual shooter rod. There’s no skill shot based on plunge strength, and no reason to soft-plunge that I can see (I could be wrong).
You can soft plunge and go for several secret skill shots. Its probably in the rules wiki.
Yeah....deciding not to purchase this pin because the game ends after nublar is an absolute shame. This is an all time great pin, and you are going to keep yourself from it because a wizard mode that you might not ever even see ends the game instead of just resetting the pin? Or...might affect .01% of your games? Not to mention that story wise it would make no sense to reset the pin after the volcano destroys the island.
Or if you are consistently getting to the end of nublar...then...you probably have the pin set up too easy. Or....just make it a different challenge for yourself and see how big of a score you can get by the end. ....OR...of course, then make it your next challenge to get to when dinosaurs ruled the earth.
Quoted from Drac:Look I know this is just too much. I know it's way over the top. I'm usually someone who might add a few tasteful mods and call it a day. It's just that I got some really nice jungle trees and plants. I put a few of them on and wanted to stop. I really did, but I just couldn't until they were all on there.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Yes, too much...though...I really dig the plant variety and they appear to be high quality plants. What package did you buy to get these?
Quoted from Drac:I initially bought crappy palm trees from Amazon and still have them on my game. I then bought some different varieties from this eBay seller https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/prassiri/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=
The quality is absolutely amazing! I'm now likely going to remove the original crappy palm trees and just stick with the stuff from this eBay seller.
Interesting. Yeah, the pictures of the ebay items look amazing...though $25 a tree is pricey.
Quoted from JP76:I found this in the bottom of the cabinet off my JP Prem. Anyone know where it’s from?[quoted image]
Looks like part of the end of stop mechanism for a flipper. Look at all 3 flippers and you'll probably see one is missing that piece!
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Eagle, ID