Hey all, hoping to be in the club soon. I had a quick question on updating code...

I realize I can do this via USB, but can I also instead just pull the SD card and upgrade that with the card image instead?

Thanks for clarifying,
I'm assuming settings include all custom adjustments, coil strength, HSTD etc?

More like haters gonna hate someone who's only been here 5 months already scalping shit and driving up the cost of their hobby.

I'm relatively new to the club myself however my opinion:

Premium has the best art for cabinet and translite
Moving T-Rex head really is cool, and so is the raptor pen and helicopter
Premium has better apron, and overall machine has heavier feel

Both games shoot great though, and check out the movie code no matter which version you opt for.

Hey All,

So I have a loose post at the upper flipper, it's not terribly loose but it spins. As there is no existing damage I'm wondering:
1. Does this needs to be torqued back down
2. There is a metal washer from the factory where the post meets the playfield up top (Example Pic attached) - Should I also be adding a nylon fender washer?
3. If I do need to add a nylon washer, what size is recommended? I have 7/8 OD on hand (Usually reserved for Sling corner protection) but guessing that is a bit too large.

post (resized).jpg

Thanks,
It looks like no matter what the ball will hit that metal washer as it is, but i'll look for something smaller like 3/8 OD to make sure it won't interfere with the flipper.

So after taking in this game, and finally tweaking the game to my liking, I highly recommend the following:

# Left/Tower shot/ramp - Take the left screw out, Mylar to hold down the flap
# Right/Helipad/Shooter lane U ramp - Take both screws out , Mylar to hold down the flap
# Fork of shooter lane - Add a small washer underneath the left screw/fork of the ramp
# Lower all three flipper power to 225
# Level game at 7 Deg

*Of course you can always get the cliffy carbon fiber replacements for these entrances as well.

The consistency of the shots, the manual plunges, auto plunges are all pretty much 100% on a clean shot at this point.
It baffles me that these types of screws were used at these ramp entrances, even if the shots were 100% they would be messing up the balls in no time.

Thanks to all the people posting their tips throughout the thread - it really helped me get this game dialed in and I look forward to finally playing it.

If you don't know what it is, you can get it here and cut pieces as you like
https://www.pinballlife.com/3-mil-clear-mylar-by-the-foot.html

If you're asking why, it's to hold down the flap to the playfield and transition as the screws holding it down previously are removed now.

Yep and honestly I really think this approach is worth considering. The screws are so out of place for these tight entrances, the amount of rejects, slowed shots, and ball knicks must be pretty high. I'm surprised they didn't go with counter-sunk holes and flathead screws, so this is the easiest option.

Best I can get at the moment but literally it’s just enough to hold the fork of the flap down.

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The screws are absolutely making contact with the balls, all you need to do is take video and slow it down, or try the fix yourself to see. Look at any older Stern games or Bally Williams ramp flaps to see they are flush for a reason.
I’m all for punishing gameplay, but this is down to screws and not shots. To each their own, but I hope people are changing their balls often.

Interesting and that aligns with me as my build is July 2020 Premium. Maybe they changed the screw type or the drilling as you say.

Just be careful as the holes aren't counter-sunk - you'll be tempted to screw them in flush but they wont go all the way either and could cause damage (unless you find the non-tapered flat head style) someone posted a pic of those in here at some point.

Nope,
This is also why I took them out at that entrance as well. This combined with the washer fix at the shooter lane fork made the launches and S shot 100% on a clean shot.

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I’m happy it helped out man, now I just think about all the people that have been unhappy or thinking the game is too clunky…
To be fair this wasn’t my idea either, someone suggested this fix as well buried in this thread, I was just bored enough to go through the whole thing.

Or just buy the mylar and other fun things from here
https://www.pinballlife.com/3-mil-clear-mylar-by-the-foot.html

To me it looks like the first problem is hitting the forks (off the left side) which makes it veer to the right (hitting unevenly) and from there bouncing the way it does back to the left to missing the ramp flaps.

I would ensure the following

1. Make sure both forks are 100% level with the playfield - you may need to use washers under the screws to do this, or tighten them down further.
2. Check your auto-plunge strength and lower it down some in settings
3. If it gets better but still has issues further down - take a look at the screws on the ramp flap above the S shot - I've removed mine and use mylar to hold that flap down which this and the above steps gives me near 100% on all launches, auto-launches, and cleanly hit S shots.

A picture would be good to see the location.
First thing that comes to mind - is your game actually level and at a 6.5 degree pitch or higher? Did you use your phone and an app or are you going off the faulty level bubble that ships on these games?

Just wait until you try it at 7!

I’ve heard 1.06 can cause issues resetting or hanging if you don’t have insider connected. Try the 1.05 code on a separate SD card.

Sorry I don't. I tried to edit the existing 1.06 SD card image link to 1.05 but that didnt work either - hopefully someone else in the thread here who's had the game for a while might have saved it when that code came out in Nov 2021.

I would also try the following though if you haven't

Check all your connections, both in the backbox and under the playfield - especially the node boards.
Get a new SD card (good brand like sandisk) and download the SD card image for 1.06 again and apply it, Insert that one (idea here is that existing card might just be a dud)

I just heated the wire on the stovetop burner with a pair of pliers and jammed it in his rump (poor guy)
On the other side I bent the wire (after cutting to length) in a U shape. loosened that screw on the ramp and placed the wire under the washer and re-tightened. I adjusted/bent the wire to personal placement taste to get the dino exactly where I wanted him. I do like the thinner wire as well, it makes him bounce around a bit, almost like he's flying. Really cool and cheap idea for a mod and it looks like it came with the game.

The lit amber shooter rod is arguably the best mod, it really fits with the whole movie and game.

The waiting is substantially decreased by hitting both flippers when paddock modes start, not sure what version of the code this was introduced but it’s a non issue.
I’ll have to test the trex multiball but I’m pretty sure it’s the same thing, hit both flippers and the multiball will start with the additional balls even while he’s munching. If anything it makes it more interesting.

No I have a premium and would never buy an LE for any pin, just saying the whole waiting for the ball is overblown.
Plus it’s not like you can’t still play and see the T. rex moving around.
You want to talk about shit that’s overpriced that you can’t see while playing, it’s $2000 toppers.

I’d like to install the latest code but wanted to validate it shouldn’t cause issue.

2020 premium build
Currently on 1.08
No insider connected hardware

With this setup i am able to swap back to movie code 1.05 without issue.

Hoping I can go to 1.10 and still revert back to movie 1.05 and not brick anything.

Anyone else able to do this?

Should I even bother upgrading if I don’t have insider connected? Will those code fixes callouts, nerdy saves even work ?