(Topic ID: 248582)

Jurassic Park (Stern 2019) Owners Club. Welcome! To Jurassic park.....

By Scribbles

2 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

10 key posts have been marked in this topic

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Post #72 Custom Jurassic Park apron cards Posted by Coindropper (2 years ago)

Post #230 Custom Apron Cards for Stern JP Posted by Coindropper (2 years ago)

Post #326 Rules tips and info on some wizard modes Posted by sk8ball (2 years ago)

Post #365 Printable Instruction cards for the pin Posted by PinballZach (2 years ago)

Post #366 The first Full Unboxing Video Posted by ZMeny (2 years ago)

Post #425 Feature Matrix of Pro vs Premium vs LE Posted by Scribbles (2 years ago)

Post #468 How to qualify control room modes Posted by jonesjb (2 years ago)

Post #2298 Keith Elwin explains JP rules Posted by MRG (2 years ago)

Post #5270 make the jeep work well Posted by Scribbles (1 year ago)


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#264 2 years ago

Dropped a deposit on a Premium with Hemispheres Amusements! Can't wait, should be coming late September/Early October

1 week later
#946 2 years ago

This is exactly what I was hoping someone would come up with..!!! Just placed my order

2 weeks later
#1444 2 years ago
Quoted from Coindropper:

I was also told next week. Can’t wait!!

Are they making the production run of LE's before the Premium, sorry noob to the hobby not sure of Stern's production order...

#1446 2 years ago

Thanks Scribbles

2 weeks later
#1835 2 years ago
Quoted from bemmett:

That's interesting, did you change it to 0 or 180? I've had multiple instances of 2-3-4 games hooked up one sub without issue but never thought phase adjustment could affect things.

Changed mine on StarWars to about 135 deg, while the screw doesn't have a indent on the motor shaft, tightening down the allen wrench screw still allows for straight travel for the flyweight during rotation. I found 180 to be almost non existent shake...and 90 was still too much. Which Stern could code some intensity settings into the motors rather than just duration/frequency

#1846 2 years ago
Quoted from Scribbles:

I believe one of you is asking about subwoofer phase, and the other is describing how to adjust shaker motor intensity

Oops, I'm a dork, was reading a thread about the shakers then saw the 0 - 180 phase and just vomited it a bunch of non pertinent crap... Whoops my bad... ( Walks away embarrassed)

1 week later
#2085 2 years ago

Just got to play an LE on location (playfield looked perfect) man oh man I can't wait for my premium to get here in November... I could have played there all night but I didn't want to hog machine... Just wanted to keep hitting that start button.

#2099 2 years ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Noticing some chipping in the shooter lane on day 2. Was hoping Cliffy would have something ready, but since he doesn't, I'm thinking of things to use to protect it for now.
Would a piece of mylar work? I have some small squares that are normally used by the inlane when ball drops from the wireform.
Aside from that... Game is a blast!
Got a new GC tonight, but I have absolutely no idea what I'm shooting for![quoted image]

Have you turned your VUK from the trough ball eject to it's lowest setting in the system menu... That may help prevent further damage

#2142 2 years ago
Quoted from Scribbles:

[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That looks great...I got the same Art Blades also, just waiting on the Premium to get here

1 week later
#2316 2 years ago
Quoted from MikeS:

Can someone do me a favor and photoshop the Premium translite onto the Pro? I want to see what it looks like. I'm leaning towards getting a Pro but don't really dig the font so it may be worth purchasing a Premium translite to go with it.[quoted image]

Here ya go!
01497f94723784e114492c06391c253211815e05 (resized).png

Did an LE also for you...looks like the LE clashes less to me

01497f94723784e114492c06391c253211815e05 (resized).png
#2395 2 years ago
Quoted from Ockeyhead:

Obviously all JP3's are NIB at this time. What does the majority do to protect the playfield once a NIB is received? Wax, cliffys, mylar, shooter protector, change balls, etc. I personally only use Novus on plastic & very dirty playfields, but possibly one might swear by it. Just want to get a general idea w/ what you are doing once you receive a NIB.

Cleaning with Novus 1, waxing 2 to 3 coats of blitz wax (one will do it, I just like to get more wax down initially in light coats), using small about of Wizards mist and shine on the in and outlanes (really help prevent almost all ball trails), new balls from Pinball life, plastic protectors for art plastics, change VUK trough setting to lowest eject power... That's it as far as protection...I clean, vacuum, and rewax every couple hundred plays

#2474 2 years ago

Use some anti rattle tape, I use this stuff and it completely eliminates the glass rattle

https://pinballpro.net/shop/anti-rattle-tape-ar-1/

You don't see it at all when the glass is back in

1 week later
#2585 2 years ago
Quoted from jdroc:

Had this happen this morning. I'm pretty sure it was because of this sequence of events:
1. Raptop cage gate open
2. Start chaos MB
3. hit back target on raptop cage
------a. lock post came up then went down (twice actually)
------b. game thought ball was locked in raptor cage
4. chaos MB continued but raptor gate was raised but no ball locked
5. get to 2 balls left in chaos, and chaos MB ends
6. get down to 1 ball left and flippers and lights go dead - game thinks you are out of balls

Had this exact same thing happen last night

#2603 2 years ago
Quoted from Scribbles:

Just curious, why not trust the bubble? That's what it's there for. If the floor is level, and your playfield isn't warped or something odd like that, shouldn't the bubble do the trick for front to back pitch? I've always centered the bubble, and my games play great. I'm not disagreeing, I'm curious for the reasoning. I've seen multiple people say this.

The bubble is only as accurate as from the factory and each screw has to be exactly precise, it can also shift over time...I measure with an app and then recalibrate the bubble before relying on it... My Star Wars was at 7.3 NIB even though it was centered and is supposed to be 6.5

#2614 2 years ago
Quoted from imagamejunky:

Mine is the same as yours. I bent the end of that metal guide slightly outward towards the cabinet. Nothing changed. This auto plunger reject issue is really pissing me off

Mine looks the same...

When my shots brick the 180 it is 100% because they rolled to the left side of the pipe at entry and the approach angle and spin is just not in line with a smooth climb back up the wall...I think the roll is induced by mainly the spin on the ball at release combined with the ramp jump - so a lot of variable there

I have a theory on the launcher...

I'm good with over 90% hitting the 180 on a manual launch...

I think the unique design of this halfpipe with the ball jumping into the bottom of the 180 is subject to a wide range of variance

Ball Speed
Ball Rotation
Plunger Pull technique
Point of impact on the bottom of the 180 based on the the above variables

So to me, Like another poster mentioned above, I am willing to look at the launch as a real skill shot, not just on the timing of the flippers but the physical action required of the plunge itself..

I think the key is a quick smooth pull/release of the plunger handle...The Amber shooter rod is perfect for this as is slips right through your grip straight on

I can almost tell my my manual release if it's going to be a successful return or not, almost like a golf or baseball swing, you just know it's going to be smooth or brick almost at the release...

My auto hits about 97 percent of the time but I did boost the auto plunger power to 220

#2615 2 years ago

I wonder for those with large misses on the autolaunch if a strip or two of metal tape on the left side of the ramp would channel the ball more in line with the pipe..I would check the shooter rod screws and autolaunch alignment first before getting to much into fabrication

#2629 2 years ago

It is definitely a top notch shooter...You are rewarded for your skill, aiming, and ability and will be met with bricks and drains for just flailing about...

What's funny is I though Star Wars was hard, now I play JP and when I go play SW Premium, it's like I'm in the Matrix, total zen and nailing shots left and right that used to be difficult... JP definitely forces you to be a better player if you accept the challenge

I love it! Such a good time to be playing pinball

#2652 2 years ago

..

#2655 2 years ago
Quoted from Flipstream:

Woohoo! Table arrived today and had a chance to play a few games, it's such an awesome table layout.
Not sure if I need to make some other PF adjustments since I'm only getting about 1/5 plunger shots through the half-pipe, plus I'm having a really difficult time getting the ball up the T-Rex/left ramp. Most of my shots just seem to rattle left to right just past the flap and roll back out. I'm not the greatest by any stretch, but yikes it seems way tougher to hit that left ramp than it was when I played it at PRGE.

I've found this game to be extremely sensitive to play field angle as well as left to right angle... Also playfield angles very throughout the top in the bottom so I would take the average and always go conservatively and lean towards the lower...6.5 is the sweet spot

As soon as I did this I started making all my shots and the game actually sped up seems to play like I've seen in the videos...

this not being a typical fan layout if you don't make your shot the ball will brick and on a steep angle you wind up with a slow ball play

YMMV

#2683 2 years ago
Quoted from fxdwg:

that was us, even when I had my LE on order, while waiting, I must have put 100.00 or so into between our local place and NYNY in Las Vegas, NV. Yep, I go to vegas and play JP instead of CRAPS.... LOL (at least this trip!)

I just played that machine in Vegas a couple weeks ago in NYNY....Man they had that thing angled high..at least when I was there...it was a drain monster

#2728 2 years ago
Quoted from jake35:

Where did you connect the power for the rod?[quoted image]

Cn15 pinout on cabinet board, strung in same bundle as Shaker motor wires and right flipper
Screenshot_20191115-221817_Photos (resized).jpgScreenshot_20191115-221823_Photos (resized).jpg

1 week later
#2823 2 years ago
Quoted from Lounge:

I had orange and green but ended up switching the lanes, flippers, and slings back to rubber. I didn’t like how the ball came off the Titans. Still have the Titans on the posts and upper playfield though.

I originally switched my Red Rubber for Titan Competition flipper rubber..hated it..

Put the rubber back on as recommended by Stern...but...

Forgot I had an order of Pinball Life Perfect Play's coming in to experiement...https://www.pinballlife.com/perfectplay-silicone-flipper-rubber-standard-size.html

Put these on and they have an identical feel to the Red Rubber for me...way better than the Titan and Orange...score!!!

#2826 2 years ago

Not to shill... But everything I've bought from Pinball life has been excellent so far... Coil stops, rubbers, balls... You name it

#2848 2 years ago
Quoted from the_belgian:

Are there premiums with playfieldproblems or is this a problem of the past now? I want to buy one thx

I would say just looking at my JP Premium with about 1000 plays on it right now that the thinner coat is probably the same chemical makeup as the earlier runs with the thicker clear but the thinner application is allowing the line to continue without the large chunked pooling issues

Here's the Pro's & Con's I have come up with so far:

Pro (thinner coat):

Far Less deep dimpling

Less subject to pooling or cracking, although I have experienced a couple areas near 2 posts and 1 ball guide where an extra crank of the nut in the factory caused a little too much pressure and I could see (although very small and slight and I'm talking zoom in max on the phone camera) a small amount of clear bunching/pooling...for the ball guide area - I fixed it with a couple 3 second heat gun passes and some mylar (looks good as new) for the 2 post areas; I removed the posts and cleaned around the hole - definite depressions in the clear were noted showing washer imprint, I added some Starbond Thin viscosity super glue amazon.com link » to the areas and reattached the posts with only hand tightened torque - again looks perfect and the glue did a nice job rebonding the areas

Con's (thinner coat)

Doesn't look as shiny (candy coated) as the older clear - just comparing it to my Star Wars Premium

The less shine seems to show ball wear and rubbing/small scratches much easier than the older thicker clear (they do come out with a little Novus 1 and/or Wizard's Mist and Shine and some new Blitz wax

The outline of the inserts can be slightly felt passing your finger over them, I think a couple more clear coats and they would be encased in the clear, but then we'd be right back to the more severe pooling and chipping...so the trade off is okay in this case

I would still purchase mine again given the issues...it's more nuisance and slight cosmetic, however, mine is HUO

I'm not sure how the thinner playfield would last in the wild or neglected on a route. I guess time will tell from other Pinsiders' experiences

#2873 2 years ago
Quoted from wheels:

What are all of you doing to protect the shooter lane in JP Premium? Placing a Pinball Life order right now. Or are you just using Cliffys?

Turning the Trough eject to the lowest value 176...one of the best things to do, ball still gets out of the trough but no damage at all - over 3500 plays on my SW and 1000 on JP an not even so much as a mar...still might do a Mylar strip

#2878 2 years ago
Quoted from Insanity199:

I have a couple questions that maybe a few of you can answer that I couldn’t find in the two owners threads of multiple pages.
1) Does anyone know what determines when the pop up post activates on the right orbit (Shot with CHAOS letter O)? There are times when I hit that shot and the post comes up to drop into the pops. Other times, it allows the ball to do the full orbit.
2) After many plays, I have gotten a technician alert twice for Switch #38 Raptor Pen Top target. I have seen that others have seen this as well. I believe I read that someone called Chas and he said to ignore for now. My target works fine all the time in switch test and in game. I assume it is triggering because it is a relatively low hit target. Question, what is the fast way to clear the alert without taking off glass? (I am a modern stern newbie when dealing with the switches).

Just from memory, I believe if the truck is facing right, the post will pop up on a right Orbit O shot

The switch, even though it says, Out of Service, from the service menu still works. Chas told me to ignore it also. I get that and multiple ball Trough alerts as well...I just ignore them as gameplay is not affected presently and they are just nuisance bugs in the service menu. I think they know about it and hopefully release a bug fix in the next update If you scroll to the actual switch and reactivate it, it will clear the alert. Just scroll graphically to the X on the switch map as you hold down the + and scroll to the switch, faster this way. There is no reason to take off the glass.

#2885 2 years ago
Quoted from J-Freeze:

I think it's been mentioned before but has anyone had problems with the ball hanging up behind the spinner gate where the gate meets the guide?
Any fix for this?

(I'm at 7.0 degrees by the way and this was still happening)
Pull up on the fence that holds the gate slightly to where the end is slightly above the ball guide, it will provide more clearance for the ball to pass under the gate like it's supposed to on the corner of that lift gate if it didn't have enough speed to make it to the pops... Mine came pressed down from the factory slightly and was hanging up there too... Some of the promo pics from Stern have the bridge/ fence for the gate higher than mine was set... Fixed the problem in 2 seconds, you can experiment and bend it slightly so the ball just dribbles back through the spinner lane
Screenshot_20191125-170445_Photos (resized).jpg

#2886 2 years ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

I was having issues making those 2 side shots also. I put the game at the recommended 7 degree angle and aligned the flippers centered on the guide holes. Works better for me now although they are still tough shots, especially the helipad shot. Flipper seems too weak. Ordered coil stops in case this is the issue. My upper flipper isn't quite centered with the guide hole but close. I am not having STDM issues even though the orbit shot down the flipper doesn't touch the post but the ball does travel fast down to the right flipper. I may move slightly lower like it's meant to be so that the ball does kiss the post and go to the left flipper. I do find my tower and orbit shots from the upper flipper are more consistent though.
My ball guides needed to be slightly moved. They were too low and the ball was bouncing up when hitting the flipper. Loosened the guides and moved them slightly higher then re-tightened. No more bounce.
Mike

Pretty much the same here... Centered the bats on the holes, then adjusted the guides where I wasn't getting flipper ball hop... The upper flipper, I loosen, then manual eyeball adjust and tested multiple ball rolls down the orbit until it just kissed the post and sends the ball to the left flipper or sling depending on speed.. Then lift the playfield up and retighten, it was a trial and error thing... Mine wound up pretty much offset to the right with the guide hole lined up pretty much on the flipper rubber looking from above...
Also, don't know why but even the Pinball Life rubbers were making the C and S lane very tough in a slippery, not enough control way... Put the red rubbers back on...(I know I've done this a bunch looking for the right color play balance) but I'm sticking with the red rubbers now
.. it shoots the best this way and how it was meant to be played

#2890 2 years ago
Quoted from J-Freeze:

This looks like the fix!
Will have to play test (boo hoo)
Lifted it just a little and now the ball can open the gate without sitting on it and come back down the spinner lane.

Awesome good to hear!!

#2892 2 years ago

yancy ...So in your fix, does the wire bend allow the ball to slide across the gate to drop into the pops.. it's a weird corner for sure... But the thought of cutting plastic and reshaping the wire... Not that I'm against it but that's kind of subjective based on the machine, ball guide alignment, fence position etc... I originally took off the wire and in the process i think I know the piece of plastic you are talking about as my gate was hanging open and up on that piece originally...I am very curious to see your pics

Are you talking about this little piece of plastic right here in my pic circled yellow, as this was interfering with the gate
Screenshot_20191126-101504_Photos (resized).jpg

#2898 2 years ago

Huge update!!!!

#2978 2 years ago
Quoted from TinyBlackDog:

Would you mind posting a photo of this when you get a chance? Mine is getting hung up there too and it is impossible to shake it loose without tilting. I don’t like losing the one-way gate either, so I’m willing to invest more time than just bending up the gate.
Thanks!

This is a confusing area for me, it's a one way gate...BUT it is an angled one way gate, Yancy posted on this a couple pages back and involved bending the gate and cutting plastic...I'm not sure 100% but I think the intention of the angle to the gate is to allow that ball to come back down the spinner lane and not get hung up on that corner...What other reason would they have for angling it like that if not to allow the very remote chance of letting what would be a stuck ball come back through...Why didn't they just hang a true vertical one way gate..

My solution has been to pull up slightly on the fence that holds the gate (matching the angle in promo shots of the game release by Stern) and have the portion of the fence (circled below) to just be above the ball guide rail slightly.. which just allows the ball to lift the gate ONLY when it's sitting on that corner and not get hung up..it's such a rarity though...99.9 % of the time the gate functions like it should, to stop weak right orbit shots or flow back down the spinner lane...To me the game is perfect like that...Otherwise, ball searching and tilting occurs trying to free it...Heck the other gate at the pops sometimes gets hit so hard and rhythmically, that sometimes a chance ball scoots under that gate as well...anyone else care to chime in with their experience on this corner?
Screenshot_20191125-170445_Photos (resized).jpg

#2983 2 years ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

If the one Way gate is changed or removed so that the ball can come back down the the spinner gate you will be getting nasty drains down the middle for sure

That's just it though, I'm not altering anything..Just a slight pull on the fence to correctly match what the design angle is on the model pics and vids from Stern ...it still performs like I said 99.9 % of the time as a one way gate...The ONLY time is when a ball would slow roll and park itself right on that corner..it's so rare I've only had it happen like 3 times in 1000 games, but it has happened...so matching the Stern positioning of that fence does allow the ball to unhang itself naturally, when it does come down that lane, it is a gentle left flipper return

#2987 2 years ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

Did you pull the fence off to bend it? Mine is also hanging up.

No, I just just pulled on the edge of the fence closest to the ball guide. I literally but a ball on the corner of the guide and the corner of the gate and just pulled up enough to where the ball would lift the gate on the corner itself, then maybe a slight amount beyond that and just tested it over and over by placing the ball where it (would normally hang) and it consistently would unhang itself ... It almost looks exactly the same as I received it from the factory, very small tweak, that's why I think the lifting of the gate on it's own in this circumstance is intentional

#3021 1 year ago
Quoted from finman2000:

Perspective buyer here. Has Stern finally resolved the pooling issues? I would be interested in hearing from owners that have November build dates.

I would say yes the pooling is fixed but only because the clear coat is thinner not because the formula is any different... I have noticed on areas where the ball guides are tightened down overly hard the playfield was starting to bunch up and pool a little... I took a heat gun to those areas and did a couple 3-second passes and it laid back down then I covered those spots with mylar... I may even put some fiber washers underneath..Nothing like what was in the earlier runs but it still has the potential if those guides are cranked down..my recommendation would be to check your ball guides in all the screws when you get your nib to make sure nothing is torque down extra tight and then after about a hundred plays make sure there's no excessive rubbing going on anywhere and if so mylar up...

Direct contact of metal ball guides on the playfield that get hit repeatedly and vibrate back and forth makes no sense... Not sure why they can't come up with a better system from the factory

I've also had very very slight cracking and some small chipping around a couple posts.. but I put down some water thin super glue to re-bond those areas.. and they haven't been a problem since

And I play the shit out of my game get over 1500 plays right now

#3025 1 year ago
Quoted from finman2000:

Do you think the clear coat is too thin now?

I think it's a little too thin but if it prevents the chipping/pooling like the first batch, I guess it'll have to do... Definitely like the look of the thicker clear, although the thinner shows far less dimpling...

Just spend a good amount of time waxing it at the beginning...

It definitely shows scratches and wear a little easier in my opinion

#3026 1 year ago

Here's unfortunately what happened to mine after about 300 plays (premium model Oct 17, thin clear).. but I heatgunned it, color matched it with some sharpies, let water thin super glue penetrate into it... Cleaned and waxed it.. then layed down some mylar and some graphic vinyl that doesn't touch the ball travel... Not ideal, but it solves the appearance and I like how it looks...

This game is bolted to the floor for me so it plays great and it's only cosmetic..

Highly recommend fiber washers and making sure your guides aren't torqued too tight
20191201_213401 (resized).jpg
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20191201_225808 (resized).jpg

#3033 1 year ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

I have Ninja balls too if ya need um.

Now there's something you don't hear everyday

#3056 1 year ago

2x's = too dark..

I appreciate the light show to highlight when 2x playfield scoring occurs, but does anyone else find the blackout a little long?

I mean are all of the the lights going out really necessary? It usually happens when I least expect it causing drains...

I usually play in the dark or very low ambient light and like the GI of the playfield...

I know.. Play better

#3068 1 year ago
Quoted from SheriffBarclay:

I feel like a grade A moron, but I cannot remove the right outlane post to move it down.
After a lot of tedious fumbling around, I got the nut from the bottom of the playfield off. Now, I cannot remove the post/top nut on the playfield. I have zero clearance to turn the nut from the top of the playfield.
I've tried holding it in place while spinning the screw from underneath with needlenose - nothing.
I've tried getting a hollow nut driver from the top - no go. The post is too big to fit into the hollow shaft of the nut driver.
Surely I don't have to remove the ramp and plastics and slings and disassemble the playfield to get this done?[quoted image]

I found it actually easier to remove with the rubber on use a small adjustable wrench to get the post started, and then slowly uniformly with thumb and forefinger lightly turn the rubber stopper which should turn your post... it takes a little bit of finesse but then the post starts to easily glide out...you may have to move the edge of the plastic up slightly just to get out from underneath it as others have said.. the return wire is actually very easy to remove and get it out of your way to work if you need to

#3070 1 year ago

Man just had 4 games in a row over the 550-580 million mark.. really starting to get the flow down... Started utilizing the upper playfield looping / raptor tower shots as well as constantly hitting the spinner and right ramp lanes and it seems like this game just opened up for me... Made it up to and past the Trex paddock, still haven't captured him yet, but man... So addictive

#3087 1 year ago
Quoted from Scribbles:

My understanding is that the LE owners prefer the sound of the game when set on 8 ohm. Then, for some reason, in the .95 code, stern decided to make the machine default back to 4 ohm every time the machine was turned on, thusly making the game "sound like shit comparitively". Lol. Bad move on Sterns part. Now apparently, it will stay where the owner sets it. Bravo Stern!

Makes no sense though... if they are 4ohm speakers they would require a higher current draw from the amplifier circuitry that the premium and pro 8ohm ones...but setting them to 4ohm if they are true 4 ohm speakers shouldn't degrade the sound quality unless the sound chip isn't able to deliver the proper power. Unless your raising the volume up to very high levels...but still, the spike system should be able to handle it...

#3098 1 year ago
Quoted from VillaThrills:

Pteranodon is now flying high out of the backbox.[quoted image]

How did you mount it? Pics would be awesome if I could trouble you. Looks great

#3134 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Can someone clarify... To start a Control Room mode (like system boot), do you just spell CHAOS once?
I'm pretty sure it spelled CHAOS three times, and didn't see the Control Room insert light up.

as per rule wiki

Control room modes are lit by:

Catching your first dinosaur
Spelling CHAOS twice
Starting Raptor Tri-Ball
15 tower shots

#3164 1 year ago
Quoted from Jolt:

Just got my first brand new pinball machine today. JP premium and noticing after playing a few games it seems there needs a lot of adjustment with wire ramp on right side and a upper flipper post is out of adjustment where when the ball comes down it nails the post and heads for the left bumper instead. Any tricks/tips for things that need adjustment out of the box? Not sure how to adjust these things

Are you talking about the ball coming down the guide rail and kissing the upper flipper post? That is by design to prevent SDTM ball drains when things get really crazy in Chaos...most of the time you are anticipating that shot and usually can hit it before it makes it to the post...but once you've got 6 balls in play, if you didn't have that post there (not to mentioon protecting the flipper), you'd be draining a ton..

Mine does the same and the upper flipper is purposely offset into the S lane slightly to allow this..all the top down view videos show this type of action as well released by Stern and streamers

If this isn't what you are talking about, disregard

Start watching at 2:15:40 at 2:15:47 you'll see a ball come around the ramp...he's flipping the upper but misses and you'll see the ball hit the post and go to the left sling.

Depending on the speed, the ball will go to the sling, left flipper, or even to the top bumper sling area, worst case to the outlane...

You can adjust the flipper angle and play with what you like though...I tried aligning it at one point so I'd get a smooth roll off but it resulted in tons of drains and made it really hard to hit the tower and upper orbit...went back to the factory setting

#3166 1 year ago
Quoted from Jolt:

Thank you! The only other issue I’m running into is the ball keeps getting stuck in the helicopter blades. I’ve only had maybe 15 games and it’s been stuck where I’ve had to remove the glass 3 times, it gets jammed in there and won’t allow it to come out even with shaking machine.

see this post, it may help

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/69#post-5339641

#3168 1 year ago
Quoted from Jolt:

You’re awesome, that was it. Does stern not check these things at the factory or what? As a sidenote, where do I find free play cards for the game?

They're churning these things out rapid pace...Unfortunately the QC needs some polish...luckily they are usually just a screw here a resecure there...

There are some free play apron cards here https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/custom-apron-cards-printable-versions-only#post-5151222 although the don't say Free play on them

#3171 1 year ago
Quoted from Thunderbird:

What exactly is factory setting? Where in relation to the middle dot, should the end of the flipper be located?

I should have specified.. Sorry.. Factory seems to be with the flipper rubber just below the dot.. the flipper extends slightly into the S lane... This can vary I've found though based on your degree incline... This is how I have mine set for 7 deg.. you can fine tweak it pulling the glass and adjusting the flipper position doing multiple rolls until you are happy with the travel off the guide rail

Here's a couple shots of mine

20191211_214127 (resized).jpg20191211_214224 (resized).jpg
#3209 1 year ago
Quoted from jalpert:

I'm having a hell of a time dialing in the center loop shot, the one with the spinner.
Shots from the right flipper are generally good, ball hits the spinner, goes past the gate and usually ends up on the upper flipper. Not all the time, but most.
However, shots from the left flipper, clunk and die and end up in the pops almost all the time.
I did adjust the gate, i saw that was an issue on some games, but not this one. I flipped the gate up and it stayed in the up position, so I was able to take that out of the equation.
I see very little that will affect this shot. Does it work for anyone? Does anyone know what I can do so that shots from the left flipper make it past the spinner and around to the upper flipper?

What flipper rubber are you using...I was getting play like that with Titans and Superbands... Put the red rubber back on, much smoother ball entry and less spin on the ball... Found more shots looping as opposed to bricking

#3238 1 year ago

That clear looks terrible...something definitely wrong there...how did that get by QC??? I'd be sending that back asap

#3296 1 year ago

What Mr. Elwin said

#3332 1 year ago

Premium, Trex is awesome! Raptor cage adds a bunch of gameplay option, gate bash toy, dirty pool, uplock newton bash, just the physical gate itself adds another dimension...I would say the raptor cage totally changes the dynamic and flow from the premium over the pro

#3414 1 year ago

It's a bad design on that corner... I pulled up on the fence just enough to allow the ball to lift the gate only when it's sitting on that corner on a super slow roll... Which is almost never... Only happened for me about 5 in 2000 games. But still annoying... Anytime else it will go to the pops or orbits... Just pull up so the edge of the fence holding the gate is just above the ball guide... You can test it with the glass off putting a ball on that corner repeatedly and just pull up enough to allow the ball to trickle under... Simple fix and it matches the height of the fence on the stern demo videos... If you bend it towards the flippers, you probably are going to jam the gate on the plastics near the hinge and risk sticking the gate in the up position
4aebf8355fa8b0ebb8f3e9e840d61e1102565a5d (resized).jpg

#3452 1 year ago
Quoted from J-Freeze:

No need for pliers. Just pull up on it on the left side (not the wire gate itself but the supporting structure) probably only have to pull it up 1/16".

What J said!

#3455 1 year ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

I keep losing GI in my lower left side. Reset brings it back, but it’s becoming more frequent. What should I check for?[quoted image]

Check if you are getting an error in the system menu. Check for an overcurrent. Pull each bulb in that GI string and check that there is no debris in the sockets.. Use a small vacuum if you have one... I had this in my Star Wars 7 months ago new in box, turned out to be a teeny tiny piece of metal in a socket causing a short.

If not, give distributor a call... They might be able to put you in touch with Pat Powers at Stern or another tech

#3478 1 year ago
Quoted from davijc02:

Just loaded up the new code on my pro and noticed a few new call outs with a voice that I haven’t heard before and man is it TERRIBLE.
The call outs never really bothered me before but this new voice is super annoying to me. It’s like the guy is trying way too hard to sound tough and it sounds absolutely ridiculous!
I first noticed it when he said, “Double Scoring”. Can’t get over how bad it sounds.

Hmm...I actually think it sounds great, he reminds me of David Harbour - Hopper from Stranger Things

#3521 1 year ago

Oh man, just lit Invalid Frenzy on a Smart Missile hit...no spoilers but that mode was amazing!!!!!

#3523 1 year ago
Quoted from Jesder:

I saw that in the smart missile options yesterday. I didn't realise that was for the mode. I thought it was a bug

Yeah, it's a quick route to the mode via the smart missile, or you could take the control room completion route

#3549 1 year ago

I wonder if you could put a strip of mylar just on the left side.. maybe two... To help maybe channel the ball towards the halfpipe center

#3575 1 year ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

On my game, the wood was cut deeper on the left side, so the metal ramp by the screw was lower, and easy to feel this.
I shimmed with folded business card cutting, a couple folds, and only tightened to level.
Lowered coil strength, centered rod, and changed spring. Works the loop now 90%+

Wow, just noticed this on mine..I kind of accepted the fact that 15 % would miss.. Sure enough, looks like the left side was routed just a hair below the right... Did your cut business card trick and whalla... Every single shot manual or automatic is 100% butter smooth and makes the half pipe every time now. Even at lower plunge pulls... Thank you

#3578 1 year ago

Mike Vinikour restating what he told me about playfield angles at Houston Arcade Expo, specifically JP, starting at the 00:27 minute mark. 7.0 is the Magic Number... He also talks about IM, Deadpool, and Stranger Things' best angles

From the Flip n Out stream

http://www.twitch.tv/flipnoutpinball/v/535665069?sr=a&t=1620s

#3638 1 year ago
Quoted from BMore-Pinball:

Is it possible to turn off the lockdown bar button from starting a game?

Yes it is

#3640 1 year ago
Quoted from BMore-Pinball:

thanks, searched the menus and could not find it
any idea where it is?

Go to Adjustments>Game>Feature Adjustment #51 - Start Game from Lockdown Bar NO

*This is from the Adjustments menu option for the Game (with the TREX pictured) - Not Standard Adjustments

#3649 1 year ago
Quoted from jfaulkner56:

Thanks for this info. I definitely have issues with the auto-launch making it up the 180 ramp. It bangs around and looses momentum most times. Then other times it works as expected. Do you have a pic of where and how you added those washers? I hate banging around in a new game for something stupid like this. And of course I always fear making it worse.
Ball plunge ramp fail. 3 out of 4 tries.

I videoed my ball launch in slow motion with my phone... When it rejected at the half pipe it was always due to rolling left down the shooter lane. Oldpinguy pointed out his fork in the left was slightly lower due to the cutting process on the playfield. Mine shared this... To fix: unscrew both fork screws in the shooter lane ramp. The ramp will lift on it's own. I used a business card folded a couple times and trimmed to hide out of site just under the fork. Then re screw just until hand snug.. You don't want to dig into the playfield with the screws just enough to hold the ramp. The left side will be slightly higher than the right. Invisible really to the glance but close inspection would reveal the very slight difference. Anyways... After the fix... Literally 99.9 % of my shots complete.. The slow motion travel is always straight. You may have to experiment with the level of height you need... Which is why the card idea works better than the washers... As you can fine tune the adjustment without going overboard and it is completely hidden

#3667 1 year ago
Quoted from Dantesmark:

Here we go.[quoted image]

Looking forward to seeing this

#3675 1 year ago
Quoted from pickleric:

What lights the smart missile in the left inlane?

From the Tiltforums Wiki

Screenshot_20200121-225226_Chrome (resized).jpg
#3684 1 year ago

Did you buy extra caps or are these from the game... You've got be thinking I want to try this but don't want to screw up my game caps

#3687 1 year ago

Thank you much!

#3692 1 year ago
Quoted from northvibe:

Snagged a coil stop from my sega and it fixed it.
Anyone have an issue with the ball plunging (manual) up the 180? Is this the same issue as the shim for the shooter lane? Auto plunge works fine but manual the ball bangs around and has a hard time going up the ramp

Yes, the shim fixes the banging... I've had no issues with my orange spring Amber rod shooter since I shimmed the left fork of the shooter lane ramp

#3694 1 year ago

Everyone just replacing the rings and post sleeves on my JP and noticed something about the sleeves... The factory ones from Stern are a tapered version... I ordered the slim tapered Titans... Just an FYI to throw out there in case some of you replacing sleeves.. I'm sure Keith Elwin had his reasons but I've noticed some people modding their post sleeves with straight versions which may be producing a little bit more bounce and different gameplay than intended

#3696 1 year ago

Got rid of the factory rubber... Oh man, the new Titans are so amazing... Should have changed everything when I got the machine...

20200124_223954 (resized).jpg
#3698 1 year ago
Quoted from Scribbles:

Told ya! You'll notice less crud on the balls, ramps, and guides. GoTG was my first newer stern with the black rubbers. Took me about 5 games to realize the black stern rubbers were leaving black residue all over the balls. Enjoy those Titans!

Thank you much! I even moved the outlanes back to the middle position, and get way, way less drains to the sides.

The ball action just feels better and less weird spins and cheap drains

I gave it a good cleaning and waxing as well... Played about 10 games and no crud either.

#3701 1 year ago

Yeah I love my Superbands, I've gone through everything with my flippers and came back to the Superbands... Titans on everything else...

#3705 1 year ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Just curious, is there a different bounciness off the posts & slings or is it more about reducing the ball trails?

Any chance you can post a pic of how that color looks on the machine when you put them on. Looks like it should be a good color with it.

It seems there is less random weird spins and unfairness to the bounces, seems more in line with where you'd think the ball should go. bounce the same areas, just not all the weird spins. The reduction of ball trails is a bonus...

I put in Black Titans..I like the look of the black... The flippers is where I went with the orange Superbands

#3723 1 year ago
Quoted from Lermods:

I’ve found super bands don’t bounce well, perfect play is what I use. I used to use super bands and switch to perfect play.

Hmm.. Maybe they changed the formula, mine bounce great but also better control accuracy... The perfect plays while good, felt a little slippery on the extreme C and S lane shots and became way too frustrating, maybe they're okay on other games but Superbands all day for the flippers on JP

#3726 1 year ago
Quoted from MUGEN_4_LIFE:

I recently bought a JP premium. Its on order but will be taking delivery in march! Anyone have the JP siderails on their machine? I was thinking of just buying lollipop rails and powdercoating them but wanted to see the licensed ones installed before making my decision. Also what rubbers/mods do you all reccomend? Thanks for having me!

Titan rings
Superbands flipper rubber
Mezel sling and rail plastic protectors
Mezel raptor pit, tower, and electric fence
Mezel sign covers
Amber shooter rod
Amber lit LED Flipper buttons
Flipper bat toppers
Custom Apron cards
Control room plastic
Park signs
Tilt decals and sideblades
My own pteranodon flying over the helix
Trough light
Shaker motor
Quiet power fan
Invisiglass

#3749 1 year ago

I thought I read back a while ago someone was working on a Nedry computer display screen mod that could go right above the escape standup target and near the control room light platform. I was wondering if anyone could design a 3d printed vintage IBM computer that would fit the Sparky Pinball video displays. Any news or ideas?

#3799 1 year ago
Quoted from KingHebes:

Doing stuff under my playfield today and noticed the newton ball nut/bolt underneath was loose. Trying to tighten it, i realized my newton ball is not attached to anything. It just sits on an unthreaded post. Is this normal? I figured it would be screwed in or actually attachedto the post. Unless whatever glue is used to stick it to the post broke? Is this normal or is my newton ball broken? I think its broken because i can't even tighten this post. Seems i should be able to hold the ball and tighten the nut underneath.

Yeah, you should be able to hold it and then tighten it from underneath..probably broken..not sure what they used to attach to the post so you might need a new part altogether... Part number 260-5016-00

I can't find the specific one in stock anywhere so you might have to give stern a call to get a replacement under warranty possibly

#3829 1 year ago

This game!!! Okay my plan is to just get to the mode on normal playing, give me something to really shoot for... Then all bets are off, challenge mode accepted! Thanks Mr Elwin

#3860 1 year ago
Quoted from beeker3000:

TIP: If your ball has a habit of exiting the pops (the wrong way) through the one-way gate, use a zip cord the limit the gate action.
The ball is able to escape because the gate opens too far. Whenever a ball in the pops bounces off the gate it springs open allowing the ball to pass through. The wider the gate is allowed to open, the more time the ball has to pass through. A zip cord can be used to restrict the gate opening without interfering with it's intended purpose.
I actually have mine tightened down to just slightly smaller than the ball size. There's still enough give that a ball with any speed can pass through from the outside, but the gate will never open wide enough to allow it to exit from the pops side.[quoted image][quoted image]

Very cool, simple, and effective ! I'm gonna be tempted to try this...I think we need to call it the BeekerZip fix...I partially agree with Alattig about keeping the game true, but it's frustrating when those leaks happen...not when I don't hit it hard enough, that's on me, but when it's already in the pops and goes crazy down the middle right after from springing the gate

#3861 1 year ago

New . 98 Code out now !!!!

#3865 1 year ago
Quoted from Alattig:

From Keith (who is a pinball designer) on TiltForums:
sk8ball
Current Or Former World Pinball Champion
Sep '19
WWJ:
Also had a number of balls come out of the pops via the lower ‘one-way’ gate, although I assume this should be easily fixed with some manual tweaking.
Keith: That’s by design. Keeps you on your toes

Ah thanks, well, by design it is... It does make you a better player for sure

#3885 1 year ago
Quoted from Jodannar:

Put on the new code tonight. Escape Nublar is a very different mode to play the game in.
With the translight out during the update I noticed that my week old Playfield had tonnes of tiny scratches running down it. Balls are all clean and no burrs. not sure what’s caused it. Unless they were there from factory. All seem to be running down the Playfields This is my first new stern, is it to be expected? I expected the dimpling but tiny scratches in the clear coat are a surprise.

It's just because of the thinner clear... Don't Novus 2 right now.. Just clean it and use a couple light coats of Blitz Wax and then use Novus 1 to clean grime and buff periodically... After about 100 games every week, I'll do a light cleaning and light wax recoat, those little scratches don't appear anymore, you will see over time, ball marks from the wax moving under the heat of the ball friction similar to burn marks on a felt pool table, there's a lot of energy transfer going on under the glass... Those wax smudges are just that fortunately, smudges that clean really with a little clean towel buffing.

Here's a little trick of mine that works amazing:

First make sure your hand is clean, and no rings, watches etc...

Next use your entire hand Palm down on the surface and gently rub and glaze on the wax after you put down a little with the pad, or you can just do it with your hand... Keeping your hand as flat as possible, gently rub on the wax, wirhin a couple passes, you'll start to see a glass like shine appear... Stop and let dry, then lightly wipe off with a very soft detailing microfiber or cloth towel... You will have a glass finish that lasts for more than a week of heavy play

#3890 1 year ago
Quoted from manadams:

Well I guess my new art blades helped me play better . Got to visitor's center and almost to secure control room.[quoted image]

Man that's a good score, I'd have to put rubberbands on the outlanes, change to 5 ball to get anywhere near that...

#3895 1 year ago
Quoted from WJxxxx:

Has anyone else noticed that DNA combos have disappeared in 0.98 code?

You know, now that you mention it, I think so, I hope that's just a glitch.. Out on the road so I can't test my machine

#3907 1 year ago
Quoted from Jediturtle:

A couple dino upgrades. Way better than the lizard head original T-Rex. Just have to cover up or hide the old mounting holes on the backboard. Might need to come up with a better mount at some point but for now he holds himself in place really well with no modifications.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Cool shot between the legs!

#3934 1 year ago

I'm having DNA combo withdrawal

#3937 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

I think I've only gotten 2 of the 11 so far (Ankylosaurus, Gallimimus). Do you recall how many you've gotten? Some of them are pretty tough/obscure...

I've scored: (having them bug out on the latest code is a bummer)

Gallimimus
Ankylosaurus
Brachiosaurus
Velociraptor
Spitter
Pteranodon

#3945 1 year ago
Quoted from Skeets:

Has Keith chimed in on the DNA combos?
Just curious if they were purposely removed or it was an accident with the new code update.

He said on Tilt forums it was a bug and they will be back soon.

I'm thinking about doing a revert to .97 until then to get them back

#3949 1 year ago
Quoted from WJxxxx:

And lose Nubar?

I can't play that until I get to it through the game... Just my own personal discovery quest, so that's not a factor in a roll back for me

#3953 1 year ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

It’s a complex mode. I am glad I have seen how it works so when I get there through the game I don’t waste the opportunity!
To each his own though!

I hear you, it's very tempting...It's just my OCD shining.

#3986 1 year ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Really, didn’t realize that. I’m sure I’ve had smart missile with an open Truck shot.

If you have another ball in play, you can hit the truck to open the Lane before the missle fires AFTER you trigger the shot with the other ball... If you just have a single ball going, the open truck shot will be on Super Spinner and not Smart missle

#3997 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

So when the truck is turned to be a tighter shot, do you just shoot for the spinner and hope it makes it in the pool bumpers to register the missile shot?

That could be a strategy, but I usually go for the direct shot. It's more satisfying making that target directly through the pops. Sometimes if I have a 2nd ball in play, I'll try to hit the truck to open the Lane but that rarely works timing wise. I think it's more of a psychological shot than anything, there is plenty of room but the space and countdown sometimes make you overthink it.. It's really a great shot

#4012 1 year ago

The added MXV skill shot... Is that the Mike Vinikour shot?

No spoilers if you find it

#4014 1 year ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

I've got a chip now too. [quoted image]

I'd use some auto touch up on the black, seal it with automotive clear, cover it with mylar then a fiber washer

#4064 1 year ago
Quoted from accidental:

I’m finding the spinner shot bricks a lot of the time. It almost never feeds the upper flipper. Is this normal? If not, what’s the remedy?
I’ve already had to level the pop-up post up there because it came from factory slightly raised and causing air balls.

It depends on the shot, once you get the shot down, it flows more smoothly, but watching all the demo vids from Stern, it's hit or miss, sometimes into the pops, other times a roll out...but it's not really a horseshoe curve since it is missing a portion of the rail because of the gap needed for the orbit shots. If you hit the shot to the left and manage to ride the spinner entrance on the left side rail, you'll have a better chance of the guide rail angling the ball into the back orbit to the flipper, but it still has to jump the gap from the spinner guide to the orbit guide, so staying to the left will provide more of an arching curve. Hitting it up the center or right will depend on the ball/spin/flipper shot as your asking for the rail to change the trajectory too dramatically from the center or right of center up the spinner lane, which usually clunks a little or drops into the pops

#4068 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Had my best first ball and game yet!
I had everything qualified for Nublar, but needed to run down the clock on TRex Encounter.
I blew a ball in Visitor's Center and Control Room wizard modes. Does the time run down on these modes? If so, might just be worth it to trap the ball if you're low on balls and close to Nublar.[quoted image][quoted image]

Geez...I can only dream of that score right now.. Takes me 3 balls to get your one ball score

#4146 1 year ago
Quoted from 1956PINHEAD:

I'm now a proud owner of a Premium JP. Game was HUO and less than 150 games, shaker, HD glass, and Art Blades installed. Put about 15 games on it yesterday and really impressed, that T Rex has to be one of the coolest toys ever! Love the game and can't wait to play some more later this evening.[quoted image]

Crazy some of these low play HUO's... How can you only put 150 on a JP...I did that in a couple days!

#4148 1 year ago
Quoted from N80G80:

Not super crazy! I just unloaded my PRO to upgrade to a Premium.

But this was a Premium

1 week later
#4216 1 year ago

Anyone ever had a small glitch on launching your first ball and getting an instant map credit, followed by what seems to be an auto launch or a coil in the right side triggering... Hardly ever happens but every once in a while... Running latest code, never happened until version 1.0

#4222 1 year ago

Have you looked into it further, or are you just accepting it as a minor code glitch... Not sure where to start, outside of sending Stern a bug email if I can capture it on video...

#4224 1 year ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

I figured it as a bug because of its randomness

Thanks, I just sent in a bug report to Stern

#4251 1 year ago
Quoted from Spyderturbo007:

Anyone have a fix for a truck that doesn't rotate correctly? It spins around just fine, but seems to get stuck about 1/4" away from the newton ball on both sides. Whack the side of the game or flip the flippers a few times and it settles in.
It's the one at leagues. I pulled it apart last night, cleaned the assembly and put a small bit of super lube on the ball bearing washer. It spins around better, but that last 1/4" is still an issue.

Make sure the flange on the end that the switch sensor reads is not interfering a getting hung up on the sensor. The truck assembly should a just a very small amount of play and the flange should clear the sensor by a couple millimeters..With the playfield up, put your hand on the truck to keep it flush to the playfield...you should be able to rotate it around and clear the sensor without it hanging...if it doesn't, you've got too much play...tighten the sleeve by repositioning the allen scrwew lockdown point

#4272 1 year ago
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:

thanks for taking the time!
There are 3 washers on the heli. I put the one with the bearing at the lowest spot, that worked!
I found the volume controll plug, yay!
I changed the standard post sleeves with superband and it was an airball fest, i swapped them back after 20 seconds play,
because of the potential PF damage.
I dont understand why i didnt read about that in the thread, since i see so much pictures of coloured post sleeves here.
Are there alternative products for those not-bouncy sleeves?

make sure you have enough cooling power on the new fan!
cheers

What angle are you at..I have Superbands sleeves at 7 deg and no airballs at all

1 week later
#4320 1 year ago
Quoted from Flipstream:

September build date for my Pro. Has the thinner clear, pulled back artwork as you can see, and the improved post. Just noticed this today when I was cleaning the table...☹️[quoted image]

That's the alignment dot for the upper right flipper

#4335 1 year ago
Quoted from Flipstream:

Three of them?

Ah sorry I see that now...I would fill it with a dab of automotive clearcoat, those 2 little spots will disappear

#4357 1 year ago

...

#4414 1 year ago
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:

Today i found two more clear coat chippings at the guide of the left orbit and the tower shot...
Would it be so hard for stern to put a washer there? Already send the photos to my distributor.
Im not amused.

I loosened all my guide rails and inserted small fiber washers at key points just as preventative maintenance...haven't had any issues...Once you fix your chips with automotive clear or through your distributor (doubtful outside of a clearcoat repair kit) , I would highly recommend to prevent further damage. Not sure why they don't come from the factory that way.

#4437 1 year ago
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:

so you dont use the standard factory flipper strength? I checked it in the settings, and those are already set on different strengths (255/235), so i trusted those. i set the game on 7°, is it worth to play around with those factors? My main problem is the Helipad ramp, since its so much needed when getting deeper into the game, sometimes i need 6 tries.
I have the game now for 2 weeks and i feel like im not making any more progress. pteranodon paddock at best, no visitor center for me.
i have days, i can shoot combos like crazy and the next day i'm even not hitting the t-trex ramp most of the time i only get one extraball from 6 rescues, i have to learn the code better too, but it seems to be hard to get more extraballs. (fossils, t-rex, smart missile)
i was not able to dial in my loop, so that the O shot feeds O shot again by holding up upper flipper. I read EaglePin's posts about it, but the ball goes down too low, and barely can reach the tip of the upper flipper. the only idea would be to bend the lane guide... that could cause trouble, because i also have to make that shot the other way around.

For me, I started out with the s shot being the hardest in the game...I really dialed in my main flippers, I mean dead center in the bat tips to the alignment holes. I measure my angle with a digital level in the center of the playfield... It's about 7.1 at the top and 6.9 near the flippers and exactly 7.0 dead center... Then it was just practice practice practice...I still haven't made it to the visitor center, very close but not yet, but the helipad shot has become much much easier... Using Superband flipper rubber really helped as well... Just keep at it... You'll get it

#4518 1 year ago

Okay it's done!!

First off let me say I love JP and the designers, coders, and programmers at Stern. They are really talented people.

Thanks to using Pinball Browser, I was able to change (mod) a couple vids and sound I feel needed tweaking for me personally. Not disparaging or trying to take away anything from anyone at Stern or the coders.

I've included a link here for those who own the JP Premium/LE edition to view, download, use on their machines some *.mp4 and *.wav files I feel just kick it up a little bit. (these may work on the PRO - I don't know for sure at the file locations and lengths may vary)

Here's what I did:

Changed the BALL SAVE Audio to have a more pronounced "thunk" and "glass shatter" when the ball it hits the screen in the transition video

Added extra HUD graphics to the SMART MISSLE launch and post impact HIT video and audio

Added extra HUD graphics to the SMART MISSLE launch and post impact MISS video and audio

Added an original custom designed SHOOT AGAIN video/audio files to completely replace the factory vid and audio

Please see the readme.txt file in the link below if you decide to use these files.

*NOTES*

Although the videos contain audio, that audio is not the ones the game uses and is disregarded in the video import process via Pinball Browser, you need to import the wav files as well to their proper locations.

Some of the *.wav files have differing or boosted dynamics from their video companion

The included videos are at 1360x768 resolution and 30fps - viewing them in the webbrowser via google may produce 720P or lower results with compression artifacts, for best viewing quality, download them to your computer.

I've tried and tested these on my JP Premium using a backup image file of my Factory SD card - everything works perfectly and the audio levels don't clip.

You may show 1 extra frame importing the videos from the factory but this doesn't affect the function/timing within the game

(Disclaimer - I'm not responsible if you brick your machine...I just had to say that for legalese , but you should be fine)

CLICK LINK BELOW TO ACCESS FILES

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1RO_5shtCyWkqc_1cBef7_H48PiIW6SWo?usp=sharing
jpedits.jpg

#4580 1 year ago
Quoted from DugFreez:

Is there no better screw head replacement that could be used there?

I haven't searched yet, but a small flat pan head screw should do the trick aside from a Dremel shave

#4583 1 year ago
Quoted from djsoup:

Noticed my truck is also no longer spinning all the way around after a few hundred plays and found this thread.. Is there a way to fix without having to take the truck apart? I'm having the worst time trying to figure out how to take this truck/shaft apart does the entire bracket underneath the playfield need to come off first?

It's literally one small hex screw under the playfield near the opto switch

Unscrew that, take truck shaft out of sleeve, careful to note order of washer to bearings, clean sleeve and bearing, i used some contact cleaner on the bearing, then added a quick blast of dry silicone lubricant to it, reinstall...done

#4588 1 year ago
Quoted from Lounge:

I found it easier to shave than to replace. It doesn’t take much grinding - check clearances often and take your time.

I'll probably do that, better fit with the current screw thread size rather than risk widening the hole

#4594 1 year ago

Those should already be on all the new Sterns if I'm not mistaken...just needs a tightening below the playfield if the target is shifting

#4614 1 year ago
Quoted from Arcade:

That metal guide flap is correctly placed on our game. Though it is not pulled that far away from the outside rail, so there is no gap like in the photos above.
I have tried the washers under the screw as well changing to an orange spring, but getting the ball to go up the horseshoe turn is maddening.
Out of 10 plunges, maybe 6 or 7 will make it. Sometimes less if it is in a bad mood.

Check your plunger alignment, is the tip hitting the ball in the center, or is it putting some English on it... Make sure the plumber is secured, if it's off, you may be able to shim it just a hare with a business card or two between the cabinet and assembly... Also, try another plunger tip... Possibly one from Titan

#4626 1 year ago
Quoted from Yesh23:

Ok so we need to figure out what size flat screw to use

Look up "pancake head" wood screws, that will give you a step in the right direction

#4630 1 year ago

If you guys are having trouble with the tower shot, 1st...make sure you are 7.0 degrees and level left to right. 2nd. flipper alignment is critical, as Keith Elwin posted a while back, the dot alignment hole should line up with the top of the flipper bat (plastic portion, not the rubber) - this will cause some protrusion into the S lane, but it is critical for nailing the Ramp Tower. I can make the Helix Ramp and Raptor tower back and forth all day long - i got up to 3x's in a row once...when the shot is dialed in, the screw protrusion (slight as it is) on that flap holddown is negligible

#4659 1 year ago

Just push the spinner wire through to the next bend, your on the outer one which is causing the gate to lift

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1 week later
#4801 1 year ago
Quoted from Gahendo:

Anyone have a fix for the jeep sticking? Mine has started acting up recently. Ive checked level and wiped down all the parts.

In addition to what Scribbles posted...take a look at the ball at the end of the jeep looking down the playfield eye level at the ball drain. Look for the clearance of the ball to the playfield...Over time, the 4 rubber rings may wear or if you added different rings (Titans's) they may have compressed slightly...The rings take a deflect balls, but they also maintain keeping the kinetic ball perpendicular to the main shaft.

The thread of the kinetic ball is limited to just allow a little play and slack when tightened fully on the nut, so in a sense the 4 rings prop the ball up and keep the crosspiece lateral to the playfield and prevent it from dragging.

So you can either replace the rings with 4 new ones or add a 5th ring

I added a 5th ring s and now the ball sits where it should from the factory and doesn't bind/drag on the playfield.

1 week later
#4906 1 year ago
Quoted from vertigo:

I am the proud owner of a limited edition and absolutely love this game. There’s a few issues with it though. It hasn’t really been played much so this was kind of dissapointing;
- speaker pops loudly every 10 minutes or so.. checked the wiring, looks mint...
- trex wont eat ball (tried the optic fix, didn’t work, seems the magnet doesnt activate though I wouldnt exclude vertical alignment. I kind of find it difficult how to adjust that from the instructions on here.. is there a video somewhere I’ve missed?
- the supply drop target and some other targets are really tilted/bend to the left I’m not sure how to fix this, checked the bottom of the playfield there’s mostly 2 screws keeping the targets, but I dont see an obvious way to adjust/make the angle 90 degrees
- after the ball drops from the right ramp loop it bounces of the side a lot of the time, missing the upper flipper and draining often.. this might be fixed by more precise horizontal levelling, although it seems pretty straight..

Loosen the screws for the targets and move them my hand where you like them then retighten , they were probably not as tight as they could have been and moved a little...should fix the issue

Unscrew and rescrew the helix ramp and give a slight pull towards the guide rail, keep doing this with test ball drops at different speeds until you get a nice location that works...mine started off bouncy when i got it but dialing it in rolls off the helix perfectly every time, you just have to play with what works for your machine

can't help on the other two issues

4 weeks later
#5193 1 year ago
Quoted from gblack:

I emailed stern and they said the posts on the JP are NOT tapered. PN: 545-5308-00
My Stern’s are pretty beat up and definitely contributing to lots of black residue on the flippers. I guess I can always try titans or PP as any of them are wear items that will need to be replaced.

They are indeed tapered, i replaced mine with Titan Tapered...maybe the newer ones aren't coming like that but mine definitely was Oct 2019 build

#5226 1 year ago

This thing should have been $100 to $150 tops, and that's really stretching it...anymore is sucker money

#5229 1 year ago

Now is it confirmed that the special mode relates to the playfield or gameplay or does the Topper actually do anything else once all the letters are spelled out?

#5354 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Still having issues making post passes due to these weak feeling flippers.
My Maiden and Batman pass with lots of power behind it.
You'll see this one barely makes it to the top of the other flipper while it's down. When I try to catch it on the right flipper, it either hits the tip and goes down the drain, or I hit it right into the slings.
Anyone know what I can do about this?

Questions:

1. Angle of playfield? should be 7
2. Replaced flipper rubber recently? Try new red flipper rubber
3. Have you changed flipper power from defaults? Left should be 255, Right 235
4. Are your coil stops bad, I replaced mine after a couple hundred games as the ones from stern were blown out
5. What kind of sling rubber do you have, I have found anything but titans and real rubber give a dead bounce
6. Leveling, is your table level from left to right at top and bottom of playfield
7. Are your guide rails tightened?

These are all subtle, but tweaking each one could give better results, the biggest difference were coil stops, leveling left to right and at 7 degress and new red rubber from Pinball Life

#5361 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Coil stops, coil sleeves, and springs all replaced.
I'm at 6.7 degrees and perfectly level side to side.
Stock power settings and red rubbers.
I noticed on one of the Stern streams, they were using black rubber. Did some games ship with black?

Try it at 7.0 measured at the flippers, it's a little change degree wise but could provide some more gravity momentum for the ball to react for a proper post pass

#5362 1 year ago
Quoted from zaki:

how did you get the flipper settings for power? is that was stern says?

In the settings menu, it highlights those numbers as the factory default settings

#5393 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Mine is the same. 6.7 degrees 3/4 way up the pf, and 6.2 between slings. I think slightly raised inserts can also change the level slightly when you measure.

Yeah that's low for this game, I bet if you cranked it to 7 at the flippers, the problem would go away, it'll take time to relearne the shots but I think you'lll have a better experience overall

#5394 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Red is softer, so the bounce will be different. I think I've become so used to playing with black standard rubber, that I just like the feel.
On another topic, does anyone know if there is a setting to register a TRex hot once the ball crossed the ramp opto, just like on the first TRex event (Trex Fed)?
I figure this might quell my frustration over TRex rejections. Nothing worse just needing to make that shot, and the Trex just isn't catching balls.

I just put black rubber back on mine after going all around testing different ones....I started with red factory rubber, went to Pinball Life Perfect Play, then Titans, then Superbands, back to red rubber, now after all that, I'm liking the shots with the black rubber the best..

Here's my takeaway after doing about 2 weeks of consistant play with each type of flipper rubber

Black Rubber - best bounce, not too hard, not too soft like red rubber, nice consistancy with shots, best post passing and flipper tricks
Red Rubber - a little too squishy, have softer shot authority, harder to trap up and hit ramps with consistant power, leave red bits all over playfield after 50 plays, get dirty very fast
Perfect Play - slippery, dead bounce, awful
Titans - better than the Perfect play, too much ball slip and still somewhat dead bounce
Superbands - great at first, very hard which made shots really scream up ramps, much harder to control as they add tons of spin and crazy pyhsics to the ball, very hard to predict, makes shots easier but made game much too random and hectic, not fun when trying to progress

I have stuck with Titans for all the rings and posts though and this combination with the black flipper rubber provides the cleanest playfield and the best play overall...I'm really OCD about most things, this was no different

#5463 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Spoke to someone at Stern, and they have confirmed that red flippers should only be on LE games, and also, that the pitch of the game should be at 6.5.
I know people say KME says 7.0, but directly from Stern, they're still saying 6.5, which makes things more confusing, like the fact that red flippers should only be on LE models, yet, other models still get them.

I spoke to Mike Vinikour at the Houston Arcade Expo recently and he said it was designed for 7.0 degrees.

#5467 1 year ago
Quoted from gblack:

At what point in the pf? Keith said 7 but no relation to top or bottom

With my 2 machines, if you set a degree at the flippers, the upper playfield will be slightly greater...as much as .1 to .3 higher...I set 7 at the flippers, and then I play the game and adjust lower until I'm not getting cheap drains and crazy sling launches into the outlanes...this game is very sensitive but it also depends on your specific game...

Here's how I dialed mine in...I set 7.0 at the flippers, which translated to about 7.15-7.2 at the extreme upper playfield. I was getting great shots but the game was brutal with tons of unrecoverable shots to the outlanes. I gave the back casters about 6 half turns and lowered the angle... and for me that is the sweet spot...Re measuring, I was at 7.0 in the dead center, 7.1 upper and fluctuating 6.9 - 6.95 at the flippers...your really have to experiment. Almost immediately following those dialed in angles, all the lanes flowed perfectly...and I made it to King of the Island MB and literally one shot away from the Visitor center and a high score over 750 mil 2 x's in a row

To make it easy, you could just start with 7.0 in the center and go from there, but I assume since Stern ships all their bubble levels, down toward the flippers, I would guess they mean to take the measurement at the flippers

3 weeks later
#5793 1 year ago

WooHoo! Pinball browser is back!! Got my Shoot Again animation going again...along with my missle hit and miss custom graphics audio and extra smack sound on the ball save screen

Click the shared link to see my final edits

https://photos.app.goo.gl/7aL6b5jq5DrPwb9p9


Annotation 2020-07-11 150055 (resized).png

#5802 1 year ago

Well, it seems either I'm doing something completely wrong or PB Browser isn't working correctly on my pin...My sound files are messed and some vids aren't even playing...reverted back to stock 1.01 for now

Added 16 months ago:

Edit, as instructed by oga83, I imported the files for the videos with no conversion and it is now working !!!

#5813 1 year ago

Love my Shoot Again Video!!!

https://photos.app.goo.gl/GW33TLyqs6SbvbY66

shot (resized).png
#5898 1 year ago

careful with the novus2...i've found a mini buffing wheel on a dremmel at hi speed with a very small dab of novus 2 works wonders on areas such as this then a light waxing...by hand, you may likely buff and abrade the scratches but create a dull spot where the scratches existed compared to the rest of the playfield, less is more

#5902 1 year ago
Quoted from J-Freeze:

It's from the balls, mine looks like that too in just the right light/angle.
A tiny nick in a ball over a few hundred plays will do that to this super thin clearcoat.
This game chews up balls, I'll be replacing them every couple hundred plays from now on.
I've already put three or four new sets in.
Not sure if it is from the contact with that tower screw or the top of the raptor gate, maybe the end of the "c" guide if that target gets pushed left enough?
It really bothered me when I first noticed but you can't see it from playing position, might try to buff it at some point.

That is strange, I've had mine going for a couple thousand games and they look brand new, no pitting. There is most definitely some contact being made somewhere

#5903 1 year ago

Agreed the circular lines indicate a buffing wheel, not sure Stern would have done that, most likely the previous owner tryingt o get it ready for sale but incorrectly applying cut and polish

#5908 1 year ago
Quoted from J-Freeze:

I really doubt his is from a buffing wheel but that is really bad for only 200 plays.

Try this technique, may seem a little strange but worked for me

I agree the clear is thin..

Take some Blitz wax on your fingers and rub it into the playfield, i mean really rub it in, your fingers will heat up from the friction...

The using the heel of your hand, flatter surface, continue rubbing until the playfield starts to shine...you'll see a difference start to happen...

After all this initial massaging, let dry 20 minutes and lightly wipe off with a really soft microfiber, not a cheap abrasive kind...then recoat and wait 20 more mins with a thincoat...

this worked for me, the rubbing seems to almost seal the wax into the little thin scratches and the top coat then caps over those layers..

hope this works for you

#5983 1 year ago
Quoted from robey99:

I am still not able to make the tower ramp shot. I was able to file down the ramp screw and it definitely does not strike it. It still goes about halfway and comes down. Sounds like it is not smooth and rattles around a bit. Can someone send me a picture of where the ramp meets the assembly. I want to make sure mine is installed properly since I am not the original owner. Much appreciated.

First thing to check is your angle and upper flipper position.. They should be 7 degrees and the plastic edge of the flipper should line up with the alignment hole, prodruding the flipper into the S lane slightly

12
#6031 1 year ago

I finally got around to doing my last mod, one that I wanted to do for a long while..Turned out awesome I think.

Used a 9/64 drill bit to drill out the spun rivets in the matchbox helo and separated the 2 halves and removed the landing gear...then used a grinding wheel to flatten the top of the helo to give clearance for the metal blades while using the factory bushing plate mounted under the plastic (didn't change that setup at all). I then used a step cone bit on the top of the helo to widen a whole large enough to give the plastic sleeve for the rod and the washers connecting the blades with ample room to turn uninhibited. (Basically the helo just sits around the original post)... Finally used a dremel to give some clearance for the 3 screws on the helo pad and fastened the helo to the pad with 3M tape.

Pretty easy mod all together, just need the right tools to start.

Love how it turned out

Here's a video of it in action, click link below

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UZCWovuQw4dEjyZ-vRdhOq1uWxwUN_i4/view?usp=sharing
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#6036 1 year ago
Quoted from Hulkbuster:

I love what you did here and I’m looking to do the same. Is there a reason you placed the chopper going in the other direction?

It gave the best clearance centering in the pad for the chopper... Also, it just gave a better profile look looking down the playfield...I guess your could try to force it for the premium /le but I think you'd have to do some fabricating to get it to fit for the tail... Plus it gave some better visibility to the red flasher

1 month later
#6954 1 year ago
Quoted from Red_Devils:

I used Brite buttons Yellow matches real well to the amber shooter rod

I did the same, they look and feel great

#6957 1 year ago
Quoted from Galvez1978:

Photos, please.

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#7024 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I like it! So to connect the rod and button lights did you need anything extra or just the connectors that come standard with the mods?

Just the connectors that come with it

#7044 1 year ago
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:

My autolaunches are getting worse to a point it really pisses me off and I do not know how to fix it.
I realigned the shooter fork, did the washer fix and lifted up the heli ramp a littlebit, since the ball sometimes touches it from below.
Yesterday I took alot of slomo videos. One big problem is the thin metal flap on the right side of the shooter lane. Its enough send the ball into the opposite direction, leading to massive rattling. However sometimes the ball launches perfectly straight and it still wont make it up the ramp. Any ideas?[quoted image][quoted image]

Your left fork seems a bit high...I set my power to 200 for a 7 deg angle.

Also, make sure both forks of the autolauncher are touching the bal during the entire forward movement of the mechanism. Turn off the machine and push the launcher my hand to ensure smooth contact until the ball would no longer connect...It'll take some trial and error to get it right...mine did but now about 99% launch correctly

2 weeks later
#7351 1 year ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

I installed my shooter lane cliffy on the outside, but when I had it apart couldn’t figure out the circled bolts. How do they come out? Pic attached
[quoted image]

Unscrew then tap out lightly from below. It's easier to take the apron off then loosen the one guide rail over the other pin to get it out.

#7361 1 year ago
Quoted from ReluctantPin:

Another newbie NIB question (sorry)...
Are these visible circle patterns normal on a NIB pin? Only visible in bright, overhead light and at certain angles. Is it just part of the clearcoat? I'm probs being way too pedantic -- new to all this, so sorry if it's been asked a ton.
They're very fine, appear to be sorta everywhere, kinda. I've seen them on other playfields of course, just didn't know if this is normal for a factory pin.
Photo makes it look a bit more pronounced than it looks in person.
Thanks![quoted image]

Yeah pretty standard now. Here's what I did. Clean it with some Novus 1 (not Novus 2 which is abrasive), then do a really good waxing with Blitz wax, use whatever lets you get at everything...a little foam ball, an applicator pad, a small microfiber, your hand...let dry for 25 minutes. Lightly buff to a shine...Repeat. I have found with repeated cleaning and waxing, those little swirls go away and the playfield does start to shine a lot. Now I just clean it regularly and wax lightly occasionally. Then turn off the overhead lights and stop trying to find marks and just play...the focus on the little imperfections will fade quickly