Dropped a deposit on a Premium with Hemispheres Amusements! Can't wait, should be coming late September/Early October
Dropped a deposit on a Premium with Hemispheres Amusements! Can't wait, should be coming late September/Early October
Quoted from jGraffix:Jurassic Park: Stern GameBlades
Just installed these on my pin.
This is exactly what I was hoping someone would come up with..!!! Just placed my order
Quoted from bemmett:
That's interesting, did you change it to 0 or 180? I've had multiple instances of 2-3-4 games hooked up one sub without issue but never thought phase adjustment could affect things.
Changed mine on StarWars to about 135 deg, while the screw doesn't have a indent on the motor shaft, tightening down the allen wrench screw still allows for straight travel for the flyweight during rotation. I found 180 to be almost non existent shake...and 90 was still too much. Which Stern could code some intensity settings into the motors rather than just duration/frequency
Quoted from Scribbles:
I believe one of you is asking about subwoofer phase, and the other is describing how to adjust shaker motor intensity
Oops, I'm a dork, was reading a thread about the shakers then saw the 0 - 180 phase and just vomited it a bunch of non pertinent crap... Whoops my bad... ( Walks away embarrassed)
Just got to play an LE on location (playfield looked perfect) man oh man I can't wait for my premium to get here in November... I could have played there all night but I didn't want to hog machine... Just wanted to keep hitting that start button.
Quoted from WizardsCastle:
Noticing some chipping in the shooter lane on day 2. Was hoping Cliffy would have something ready, but since he doesn't, I'm thinking of things to use to protect it for now.
Would a piece of mylar work? I have some small squares that are normally used by the inlane when ball drops from the wireform.
Aside from that... Game is a blast!
Got a new GC tonight, but I have absolutely no idea what I'm shooting for![quoted image]
Have you turned your VUK from the trough ball eject to it's lowest setting in the system menu... That may help prevent further damage
Quoted from MikeS:
Can someone do me a favor and photoshop the Premium translite onto the Pro? I want to see what it looks like. I'm leaning towards getting a Pro but don't really dig the font so it may be worth purchasing a Premium translite to go with it.[quoted image]
Here ya go!
Did an LE also for you...looks like the LE clashes less to me
Quoted from Ockeyhead:
Obviously all JP3's are NIB at this time. What does the majority do to protect the playfield once a NIB is received? Wax, cliffys, mylar, shooter protector, change balls, etc. I personally only use Novus on plastic & very dirty playfields, but possibly one might swear by it. Just want to get a general idea w/ what you are doing once you receive a NIB.
Cleaning with Novus 1, waxing 2 to 3 coats of blitz wax (one will do it, I just like to get more wax down initially in light coats), using small about of Wizards mist and shine on the in and outlanes (really help prevent almost all ball trails), new balls from Pinball life, plastic protectors for art plastics, change VUK trough setting to lowest eject power... That's it as far as protection...I clean, vacuum, and rewax every couple hundred plays
Quoted from jdroc:
Had this happen this morning. I'm pretty sure it was because of this sequence of events:
1. Raptop cage gate open
2. Start chaos MB
3. hit back target on raptop cage
------a. lock post came up then went down (twice actually)
------b. game thought ball was locked in raptor cage
4. chaos MB continued but raptor gate was raised but no ball locked
5. get to 2 balls left in chaos, and chaos MB ends
6. get down to 1 ball left and flippers and lights go dead - game thinks you are out of balls
Had this exact same thing happen last night
Quoted from Scribbles:
Just curious, why not trust the bubble? That's what it's there for. If the floor is level, and your playfield isn't warped or something odd like that, shouldn't the bubble do the trick for front to back pitch? I've always centered the bubble, and my games play great. I'm not disagreeing, I'm curious for the reasoning. I've seen multiple people say this.
The bubble is only as accurate as from the factory and each screw has to be exactly precise, it can also shift over time...I measure with an app and then recalibrate the bubble before relying on it... My Star Wars was at 7.3 NIB even though it was centered and is supposed to be 6.5
Quoted from imagamejunky:
Mine is the same as yours. I bent the end of that metal guide slightly outward towards the cabinet. Nothing changed. This auto plunger reject issue is really pissing me off
Mine looks the same...
When my shots brick the 180 it is 100% because they rolled to the left side of the pipe at entry and the approach angle and spin is just not in line with a smooth climb back up the wall...I think the roll is induced by mainly the spin on the ball at release combined with the ramp jump - so a lot of variable there
I have a theory on the launcher...
I'm good with over 90% hitting the 180 on a manual launch...
I think the unique design of this halfpipe with the ball jumping into the bottom of the 180 is subject to a wide range of variance
Plunger Pull technique
Point of impact on the bottom of the 180 based on the the above variables
So to me, Like another poster mentioned above, I am willing to look at the launch as a real skill shot, not just on the timing of the flippers but the physical action required of the plunge itself..
I think the key is a quick smooth pull/release of the plunger handle...The Amber shooter rod is perfect for this as is slips right through your grip straight on
I can almost tell my my manual release if it's going to be a successful return or not, almost like a golf or baseball swing, you just know it's going to be smooth or brick almost at the release...
My auto hits about 97 percent of the time but I did boost the auto plunger power to 220
I wonder for those with large misses on the autolaunch if a strip or two of metal tape on the left side of the ramp would channel the ball more in line with the pipe..I would check the shooter rod screws and autolaunch alignment first before getting to much into fabrication
It is definitely a top notch shooter...You are rewarded for your skill, aiming, and ability and will be met with bricks and drains for just flailing about...
What's funny is I though Star Wars was hard, now I play JP and when I go play SW Premium, it's like I'm in the Matrix, total zen and nailing shots left and right that used to be difficult... JP definitely forces you to be a better player if you accept the challenge
I love it! Such a good time to be playing pinball
Quoted from Caviel:
Woohoo! Table arrived today and had a chance to play a few games, it's such an awesome table layout.
Not sure if I need to make some other PF adjustments since I'm only getting about 1/5 plunger shots through the half-pipe, plus I'm having a really difficult time getting the ball up the T-Rex/left ramp. Most of my shots just seem to rattle left to right just past the flap and roll back out. I'm not the greatest by any stretch, but yikes it seems way tougher to hit that left ramp than it was when I played it at PRGE.
I've found this game to be extremely sensitive to play field angle as well as left to right angle... Also playfield angles very throughout the top in the bottom so I would take the average and always go conservatively and lean towards the lower...6.5 is the sweet spot
As soon as I did this I started making all my shots and the game actually sped up seems to play like I've seen in the videos...
this not being a typical fan layout if you don't make your shot the ball will brick and on a steep angle you wind up with a slow ball play
I just played that machine in Vegas a couple weeks ago in NYNY....Man they had that thing angled high..at least when I was there...it was a drain monster
Quoted from Lounge:
I had orange and green but ended up switching the lanes, flippers, and slings back to rubber. I didn’t like how the ball came off the Titans. Still have the Titans on the posts and upper playfield though.
I originally switched my Red Rubber for Titan Competition flipper rubber..hated it..
Put the rubber back on as recommended by Stern...but...
Forgot I had an order of Pinball Life Perfect Play's coming in to experiement...https://www.pinballlife.com/perfectplay-silicone-flipper-rubber-standard-size.html
Put these on and they have an identical feel to the Red Rubber for me...way better than the Titan and Orange...score!!!
Not to shill... But everything I've bought from Pinball life has been excellent so far... Coil stops, rubbers, balls... You name it
Quoted from the_belgian:
Are there premiums with playfieldproblems or is this a problem of the past now? I want to buy one thx
I would say just looking at my JP Premium with about 1000 plays on it right now that the thinner coat is probably the same chemical makeup as the earlier runs with the thicker clear but the thinner application is allowing the line to continue without the large chunked pooling issues
Here's the Pro's & Con's I have come up with so far:
Pro (thinner coat):
Far Less deep dimpling
Less subject to pooling or cracking, although I have experienced a couple areas near 2 posts and 1 ball guide where an extra crank of the nut in the factory caused a little too much pressure and I could see (although very small and slight and I'm talking zoom in max on the phone camera) a small amount of clear bunching/pooling...for the ball guide area - I fixed it with a couple 3 second heat gun passes and some mylar (looks good as new) for the 2 post areas; I removed the posts and cleaned around the hole - definite depressions in the clear were noted showing washer imprint, I added some Starbond Thin viscosity super glue amazon.com link » to the areas and reattached the posts with only hand tightened torque - again looks perfect and the glue did a nice job rebonding the areas
Con's (thinner coat)
Doesn't look as shiny (candy coated) as the older clear - just comparing it to my Star Wars Premium
The less shine seems to show ball wear and rubbing/small scratches much easier than the older thicker clear (they do come out with a little Novus 1 and/or Wizard's Mist and Shine and some new Blitz wax
The outline of the inserts can be slightly felt passing your finger over them, I think a couple more clear coats and they would be encased in the clear, but then we'd be right back to the more severe pooling and chipping...so the trade off is okay in this case
I would still purchase mine again given the issues...it's more nuisance and slight cosmetic, however, mine is HUO
I'm not sure how the thinner playfield would last in the wild or neglected on a route. I guess time will tell from other Pinsiders' experiences
Turning the Trough eject to the lowest value 176...one of the best things to do, ball still gets out of the trough but no damage at all - over 3500 plays on my SW and 1000 on JP an not even so much as a mar...still might do a Mylar strip
Quoted from Insanity199:
I have a couple questions that maybe a few of you can answer that I couldn’t find in the two owners threads of multiple pages.
1) Does anyone know what determines when the pop up post activates on the right orbit (Shot with CHAOS letter O)? There are times when I hit that shot and the post comes up to drop into the pops. Other times, it allows the ball to do the full orbit.
2) After many plays, I have gotten a technician alert twice for Switch #38 Raptor Pen Top target. I have seen that others have seen this as well. I believe I read that someone called Chas and he said to ignore for now. My target works fine all the time in switch test and in game. I assume it is triggering because it is a relatively low hit target. Question, what is the fast way to clear the alert without taking off glass? (I am a modern stern newbie when dealing with the switches).
Just from memory, I believe if the truck is facing right, the post will pop up on a right Orbit O shot
The switch, even though it says, Out of Service, from the service menu still works. Chas told me to ignore it also. I get that and multiple ball Trough alerts as well...I just ignore them as gameplay is not affected presently and they are just nuisance bugs in the service menu. I think they know about it and hopefully release a bug fix in the next update If you scroll to the actual switch and reactivate it, it will clear the alert. Just scroll graphically to the X on the switch map as you hold down the + and scroll to the switch, faster this way. There is no reason to take off the glass.
Quoted from J-Freeze:
I think it's been mentioned before but has anyone had problems with the ball hanging up behind the spinner gate where the gate meets the guide?
Any fix for this?
(I'm at 7.0 degrees by the way and this was still happening)
Pull up on the fence that holds the gate slightly to where the end is slightly above the ball guide, it will provide more clearance for the ball to pass under the gate like it's supposed to on the corner of that lift gate if it didn't have enough speed to make it to the pops... Mine came pressed down from the factory slightly and was hanging up there too... Some of the promo pics from Stern have the bridge/ fence for the gate higher than mine was set... Fixed the problem in 2 seconds, you can experiment and bend it slightly so the ball just dribbles back through the spinner lane
Quoted from MrMikeman:
I was having issues making those 2 side shots also. I put the game at the recommended 7 degree angle and aligned the flippers centered on the guide holes. Works better for me now although they are still tough shots, especially the helipad shot. Flipper seems too weak. Ordered coil stops in case this is the issue. My upper flipper isn't quite centered with the guide hole but close. I am not having STDM issues even though the orbit shot down the flipper doesn't touch the post but the ball does travel fast down to the right flipper. I may move slightly lower like it's meant to be so that the ball does kiss the post and go to the left flipper. I do find my tower and orbit shots from the upper flipper are more consistent though.
My ball guides needed to be slightly moved. They were too low and the ball was bouncing up when hitting the flipper. Loosened the guides and moved them slightly higher then re-tightened. No more bounce.
Pretty much the same here... Centered the bats on the holes, then adjusted the guides where I wasn't getting flipper ball hop... The upper flipper, I loosen, then manual eyeball adjust and tested multiple ball rolls down the orbit until it just kissed the post and sends the ball to the left flipper or sling depending on speed.. Then lift the playfield up and retighten, it was a trial and error thing... Mine wound up pretty much offset to the right with the guide hole lined up pretty much on the flipper rubber looking from above...
Also, don't know why but even the Pinball Life rubbers were making the C and S lane very tough in a slippery, not enough control way... Put the red rubbers back on...(I know I've done this a bunch looking for the right color play balance) but I'm sticking with the red rubbers now
.. it shoots the best this way and how it was meant to be played
Yancy ...So in your fix, does the wire bend allow the ball to slide across the gate to drop into the pops.. it's a weird corner for sure... But the thought of cutting plastic and reshaping the wire... Not that I'm against it but that's kind of subjective based on the machine, ball guide alignment, fence position etc... I originally took off the wire and in the process i think I know the piece of plastic you are talking about as my gate was hanging open and up on that piece originally...I am very curious to see your pics
Are you talking about this little piece of plastic right here in my pic circled yellow, as this was interfering with the gate
Quoted from TinyBlackDog:
Would you mind posting a photo of this when you get a chance? Mine is getting hung up there too and it is impossible to shake it loose without tilting. I don’t like losing the one-way gate either, so I’m willing to invest more time than just bending up the gate.
This is a confusing area for me, it's a one way gate...BUT it is an angled one way gate, Yancy posted on this a couple pages back and involved bending the gate and cutting plastic...I'm not sure 100% but I think the intention of the angle to the gate is to allow that ball to come back down the spinner lane and not get hung up on that corner...What other reason would they have for angling it like that if not to allow the very remote chance of letting what would be a stuck ball come back through...Why didn't they just hang a true vertical one way gate..
My solution has been to pull up slightly on the fence that holds the gate (matching the angle in promo shots of the game release by Stern) and have the portion of the fence (circled below) to just be above the ball guide rail slightly.. which just allows the ball to lift the gate ONLY when it's sitting on that corner and not get hung up..it's such a rarity though...99.9 % of the time the gate functions like it should, to stop weak right orbit shots or flow back down the spinner lane...To me the game is perfect like that...Otherwise, ball searching and tilting occurs trying to free it...Heck the other gate at the pops sometimes gets hit so hard and rhythmically, that sometimes a chance ball scoots under that gate as well...anyone else care to chime in with their experience on this corner?
Quoted from Green-Machine:
If the one Way gate is changed or removed so that the ball can come back down the the spinner gate you will be getting nasty drains down the middle for sure
That's just it though, I'm not altering anything..Just a slight pull on the fence to correctly match what the design angle is on the model pics and vids from Stern ...it still performs like I said 99.9 % of the time as a one way gate...The ONLY time is when a ball would slow roll and park itself right on that corner..it's so rare I've only had it happen like 3 times in 1000 games, but it has happened...so matching the Stern positioning of that fence does allow the ball to unhang itself naturally, when it does come down that lane, it is a gentle left flipper return
Quoted from Green-Machine:
Did you pull the fence off to bend it? Mine is also hanging up.
No, I just just pulled on the edge of the fence closest to the ball guide. I literally but a ball on the corner of the guide and the corner of the gate and just pulled up enough to where the ball would lift the gate on the corner itself, then maybe a slight amount beyond that and just tested it over and over by placing the ball where it (would normally hang) and it consistently would unhang itself ... It almost looks exactly the same as I received it from the factory, very small tweak, that's why I think the lifting of the gate on it's own in this circumstance is intentional
Quoted from finman2000:
Perspective buyer here. Has Stern finally resolved the pooling issues? I would be interested in hearing from owners that have November build dates.
I would say yes the pooling is fixed but only because the clear coat is thinner not because the formula is any different... I have noticed on areas where the ball guides are tightened down overly hard the playfield was starting to bunch up and pool a little... I took a heat gun to those areas and did a couple 3-second passes and it laid back down then I covered those spots with mylar... I may even put some fiber washers underneath..Nothing like what was in the earlier runs but it still has the potential if those guides are cranked down..my recommendation would be to check your ball guides in all the screws when you get your nib to make sure nothing is torque down extra tight and then after about a hundred plays make sure there's no excessive rubbing going on anywhere and if so mylar up...
Direct contact of metal ball guides on the playfield that get hit repeatedly and vibrate back and forth makes no sense... Not sure why they can't come up with a better system from the factory
I've also had very very slight cracking and some small chipping around a couple posts.. but I put down some water thin super glue to re-bond those areas.. and they haven't been a problem since
And I play the shit out of my game get over 1500 plays right now
Quoted from finman2000:
Do you think the clear coat is too thin now?
I think it's a little too thin but if it prevents the chipping/pooling like the first batch, I guess it'll have to do... Definitely like the look of the thicker clear, although the thinner shows far less dimpling...
Just spend a good amount of time waxing it at the beginning...
It definitely shows scratches and wear a little easier in my opinion
Here's unfortunately what happened to mine after about 300 plays (premium model Oct 17, thin clear).. but I heatgunned it, color matched it with some sharpies, let water thin super glue penetrate into it... Cleaned and waxed it.. then layed down some mylar and some graphic vinyl that doesn't touch the ball travel... Not ideal, but it solves the appearance and I like how it looks...
This game is bolted to the floor for me so it plays great and it's only cosmetic..
Highly recommend fiber washers and making sure your guides aren't torqued too tight
2x's = too dark..
I appreciate the light show to highlight when 2x playfield scoring occurs, but does anyone else find the blackout a little long?
I mean are all of the the lights going out really necessary? It usually happens when I least expect it causing drains...
I usually play in the dark or very low ambient light and like the GI of the playfield...
I know.. Play better
Quoted from SheriffBarclay:
I feel like a grade A moron, but I cannot remove the right outlane post to move it down.
After a lot of tedious fumbling around, I got the nut from the bottom of the playfield off. Now, I cannot remove the post/top nut on the playfield. I have zero clearance to turn the nut from the top of the playfield.
I've tried holding it in place while spinning the screw from underneath with needlenose - nothing.
I've tried getting a hollow nut driver from the top - no go. The post is too big to fit into the hollow shaft of the nut driver.
Surely I don't have to remove the ramp and plastics and slings and disassemble the playfield to get this done?[quoted image]
I found it actually easier to remove with the rubber on use a small adjustable wrench to get the post started, and then slowly uniformly with thumb and forefinger lightly turn the rubber stopper which should turn your post... it takes a little bit of finesse but then the post starts to easily glide out...you may have to move the edge of the plastic up slightly just to get out from underneath it as others have said.. the return wire is actually very easy to remove and get it out of your way to work if you need to
Man just had 4 games in a row over the 550-580 million mark.. really starting to get the flow down... Started utilizing the upper playfield looping / raptor tower shots as well as constantly hitting the spinner and right ramp lanes and it seems like this game just opened up for me... Made it up to and past the Trex paddock, still haven't captured him yet, but man... So addictive
Quoted from Scribbles:
My understanding is that the LE owners prefer the sound of the game when set on 8 ohm. Then, for some reason, in the .95 code, stern decided to make the machine default back to 4 ohm every time the machine was turned on, thusly making the game "sound like shit comparitively". Lol. Bad move on Sterns part. Now apparently, it will stay where the owner sets it. Bravo Stern!
Makes no sense though... if they are 4ohm speakers they would require a higher current draw from the amplifier circuitry that the premium and pro 8ohm ones...but setting them to 4ohm if they are true 4 ohm speakers shouldn't degrade the sound quality unless the sound chip isn't able to deliver the proper power. Unless your raising the volume up to very high levels...but still, the spike system should be able to handle it...
Quoted from WizardsCastle:
Can someone clarify... To start a Control Room mode (like system boot), do you just spell CHAOS once?
I'm pretty sure it spelled CHAOS three times, and didn't see the Control Room insert light up.
as per rule wiki
Control room modes are lit by:
Catching your first dinosaur
Spelling CHAOS twice
Starting Raptor Tri-Ball
15 tower shots
Quoted from Jolt:
Just got my first brand new pinball machine today. JP premium and noticing after playing a few games it seems there needs a lot of adjustment with wire ramp on right side and a upper flipper post is out of adjustment where when the ball comes down it nails the post and heads for the left bumper instead. Any tricks/tips for things that need adjustment out of the box? Not sure how to adjust these things
Are you talking about the ball coming down the guide rail and kissing the upper flipper post? That is by design to prevent SDTM ball drains when things get really crazy in Chaos...most of the time you are anticipating that shot and usually can hit it before it makes it to the post...but once you've got 6 balls in play, if you didn't have that post there (not to mentioon protecting the flipper), you'd be draining a ton..
Mine does the same and the upper flipper is purposely offset into the S lane slightly to allow this..all the top down view videos show this type of action as well released by Stern and streamers
If this isn't what you are talking about, disregard
Start watching at 2:15:40 at 2:15:47 you'll see a ball come around the ramp...he's flipping the upper but misses and you'll see the ball hit the post and go to the left sling.
Depending on the speed, the ball will go to the sling, left flipper, or even to the top bumper sling area, worst case to the outlane...
You can adjust the flipper angle and play with what you like though...I tried aligning it at one point so I'd get a smooth roll off but it resulted in tons of drains and made it really hard to hit the tower and upper orbit...went back to the factory setting
Quoted from Jolt:
Thank you! The only other issue I’m running into is the ball keeps getting stuck in the helicopter blades. I’ve only had maybe 15 games and it’s been stuck where I’ve had to remove the glass 3 times, it gets jammed in there and won’t allow it to come out even with shaking machine.
see this post, it may help
Quoted from Jolt:
You’re awesome, that was it. Does stern not check these things at the factory or what? As a sidenote, where do I find free play cards for the game?
They're churning these things out rapid pace...Unfortunately the QC needs some polish...luckily they are usually just a screw here a resecure there...
There are some free play apron cards here https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/custom-apron-cards-printable-versions-only#post-5151222 although the don't say Free play on them
Quoted from Thunderbird:
What exactly is factory setting? Where in relation to the middle dot, should the end of the flipper be located?
I should have specified.. Sorry.. Factory seems to be with the flipper rubber just below the dot.. the flipper extends slightly into the S lane... This can vary I've found though based on your degree incline... This is how I have mine set for 7 deg.. you can fine tweak it pulling the glass and adjusting the flipper position doing multiple rolls until you are happy with the travel off the guide rail
Here's a couple shots of mine
Quoted from jalpert:
I'm having a hell of a time dialing in the center loop shot, the one with the spinner.
Shots from the right flipper are generally good, ball hits the spinner, goes past the gate and usually ends up on the upper flipper. Not all the time, but most.
However, shots from the left flipper, clunk and die and end up in the pops almost all the time.
I did adjust the gate, i saw that was an issue on some games, but not this one. I flipped the gate up and it stayed in the up position, so I was able to take that out of the equation.
I see very little that will affect this shot. Does it work for anyone? Does anyone know what I can do so that shots from the left flipper make it past the spinner and around to the upper flipper?
What flipper rubber are you using...I was getting play like that with Titans and Superbands... Put the red rubber back on, much smoother ball entry and less spin on the ball... Found more shots looping as opposed to bricking
That clear looks terrible...something definitely wrong there...how did that get by QC??? I'd be sending that back asap
Premium, Trex is awesome! Raptor cage adds a bunch of gameplay option, gate bash toy, dirty pool, uplock newton bash, just the physical gate itself adds another dimension...I would say the raptor cage totally changes the dynamic and flow from the premium over the pro
It's a bad design on that corner... I pulled up on the fence just enough to allow the ball to lift the gate only when it's sitting on that corner on a super slow roll... Which is almost never... Only happened for me about 5 in 2000 games. But still annoying... Anytime else it will go to the pops or orbits... Just pull up so the edge of the fence holding the gate is just above the ball guide... You can test it with the glass off putting a ball on that corner repeatedly and just pull up enough to allow the ball to trickle under... Simple fix and it matches the height of the fence on the stern demo videos... If you bend it towards the flippers, you probably are going to jam the gate on the plastics near the hinge and risk sticking the gate in the up position
Check if you are getting an error in the system menu. Check for an overcurrent. Pull each bulb in that GI string and check that there is no debris in the sockets.. Use a small vacuum if you have one... I had this in my Star Wars 7 months ago new in box, turned out to be a teeny tiny piece of metal in a socket causing a short.
If not, give distributor a call... They might be able to put you in touch with Pat Powers at Stern or another tech
Quoted from davijc02:
Just loaded up the new code on my pro and noticed a few new call outs with a voice that I haven’t heard before and man is it TERRIBLE.
The call outs never really bothered me before but this new voice is super annoying to me. It’s like the guy is trying way too hard to sound tough and it sounds absolutely ridiculous!
I first noticed it when he said, “Double Scoring”. Can’t get over how bad it sounds.
Hmm...I actually think it sounds great, he reminds me of David Harbour - Hopper from Stranger Things
Oh man, just lit Invalid Frenzy on a Smart Missile hit...no spoilers but that mode was amazing!!!!!
I wonder if you could put a strip of mylar just on the left side.. maybe two... To help maybe channel the ball towards the halfpipe center
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:
On my game, the wood was cut deeper on the left side, so the metal ramp by the screw was lower, and easy to feel this.
I shimmed with folded business card cutting, a couple folds, and only tightened to level.
Lowered coil strength, centered rod, and changed spring. Works the loop now 90%+
Wow, just noticed this on mine..I kind of accepted the fact that 15 % would miss.. Sure enough, looks like the left side was routed just a hair below the right... Did your cut business card trick and whalla... Every single shot manual or automatic is 100% butter smooth and makes the half pipe every time now. Even at lower plunge pulls... Thank you
Mike Vinikour restating what he told me about playfield angles at Houston Arcade Expo, specifically JP, starting at the 00:27 minute mark. 7.0 is the Magic Number... He also talks about IM, Deadpool, and Stranger Things' best angles
From the Flip n Out stream
Quoted from BMore-Pinball:
thanks, searched the menus and could not find it
any idea where it is?
Go to Adjustments>Game>Feature Adjustment #51 - Start Game from Lockdown Bar NO
*This is from the Adjustments menu option for the Game (with the TREX pictured) - Not Standard Adjustments
Quoted from jfaulkner56:
Thanks for this info. I definitely have issues with the auto-launch making it up the 180 ramp. It bangs around and looses momentum most times. Then other times it works as expected. Do you have a pic of where and how you added those washers? I hate banging around in a new game for something stupid like this. And of course I always fear making it worse.
Ball plunge ramp fail. 3 out of 4 tries.
I videoed my ball launch in slow motion with my phone... When it rejected at the half pipe it was always due to rolling left down the shooter lane. Oldpinguy pointed out his fork in the left was slightly lower due to the cutting process on the playfield. Mine shared this... To fix: unscrew both fork screws in the shooter lane ramp. The ramp will lift on it's own. I used a business card folded a couple times and trimmed to hide out of site just under the fork. Then re screw just until hand snug.. You don't want to dig into the playfield with the screws just enough to hold the ramp. The left side will be slightly higher than the right. Invisible really to the glance but close inspection would reveal the very slight difference. Anyways... After the fix... Literally 99.9 % of my shots complete.. The slow motion travel is always straight. You may have to experiment with the level of height you need... Which is why the card idea works better than the washers... As you can fine tune the adjustment without going overboard and it is completely hidden
Did you buy extra caps or are these from the game... You've got be thinking I want to try this but don't want to screw up my game caps
Quoted from northvibe:
Snagged a coil stop from my sega and it fixed it.
Anyone have an issue with the ball plunging (manual) up the 180? Is this the same issue as the shim for the shooter lane? Auto plunge works fine but manual the ball bangs around and has a hard time going up the ramp
Yes, the shim fixes the banging... I've had no issues with my orange spring Amber rod shooter since I shimmed the left fork of the shooter lane ramp
Everyone just replacing the rings and post sleeves on my JP and noticed something about the sleeves... The factory ones from Stern are a tapered version... I ordered the slim tapered Titans... Just an FYI to throw out there in case some of you replacing sleeves.. I'm sure Keith Elwin had his reasons but I've noticed some people modding their post sleeves with straight versions which may be producing a little bit more bounce and different gameplay than intended
Got rid of the factory rubber... Oh man, the new Titans are so amazing... Should have changed everything when I got the machine...
Quoted from Scribbles:
Told ya! You'll notice less crud on the balls, ramps, and guides. GoTG was my first newer stern with the black rubbers. Took me about 5 games to realize the black stern rubbers were leaving black residue all over the balls. Enjoy those Titans!
Thank you much! I even moved the outlanes back to the middle position, and get way, way less drains to the sides.
The ball action just feels better and less weird spins and cheap drains
I gave it a good cleaning and waxing as well... Played about 10 games and no crud either.
Yeah I love my Superbands, I've gone through everything with my flippers and came back to the Superbands... Titans on everything else...
Quoted from EaglePin:
Just curious, is there a different bounciness off the posts & slings or is it more about reducing the ball trails?
Any chance you can post a pic of how that color looks on the machine when you put them on. Looks like it should be a good color with it.
It seems there is less random weird spins and unfairness to the bounces, seems more in line with where you'd think the ball should go. bounce the same areas, just not all the weird spins. The reduction of ball trails is a bonus...
I put in Black Titans..I like the look of the black... The flippers is where I went with the orange Superbands
Quoted from Lermods:
I’ve found super bands don’t bounce well, perfect play is what I use. I used to use super bands and switch to perfect play.
Hmm.. Maybe they changed the formula, mine bounce great but also better control accuracy... The perfect plays while good, felt a little slippery on the extreme C and S lane shots and became way too frustrating, maybe they're okay on other games but Superbands all day for the flippers on JP
Quoted from MUGEN_4_LIFE:
I recently bought a JP premium. Its on order but will be taking delivery in march! Anyone have the JP siderails on their machine? I was thinking of just buying lollipop rails and powdercoating them but wanted to see the licensed ones installed before making my decision. Also what rubbers/mods do you all reccomend? Thanks for having me!
Superbands flipper rubber
Mezel sling and rail plastic protectors
Mezel raptor pit, tower, and electric fence
Mezel sign covers
Amber shooter rod
Amber lit LED Flipper buttons
Flipper bat toppers
Custom Apron cards
Control room plastic
Tilt decals and sideblades
My own pteranodon flying over the helix
Quiet power fan
I thought I read back a while ago someone was working on a Nedry computer display screen mod that could go right above the escape standup target and near the control room light platform. I was wondering if anyone could design a 3d printed vintage IBM computer that would fit the Sparky Pinball video displays. Any news or ideas?
Quoted from KingHebes:
Doing stuff under my playfield today and noticed the newton ball nut/bolt underneath was loose. Trying to tighten it, i realized my newton ball is not attached to anything. It just sits on an unthreaded post. Is this normal? I figured it would be screwed in or actually attachedto the post. Unless whatever glue is used to stick it to the post broke? Is this normal or is my newton ball broken? I think its broken because i can't even tighten this post. Seems i should be able to hold the ball and tighten the nut underneath.
Yeah, you should be able to hold it and then tighten it from underneath..probably broken..not sure what they used to attach to the post so you might need a new part altogether... Part number 260-5016-00
I can't find the specific one in stock anywhere so you might have to give stern a call to get a replacement under warranty possibly
This game!!! Okay my plan is to just get to the mode on normal playing, give me something to really shoot for... Then all bets are off, challenge mode accepted! Thanks Mr Elwin
Quoted from beeker3000:
TIP: If your ball has a habit of exiting the pops (the wrong way) through the one-way gate, use a zip cord the limit the gate action.
The ball is able to escape because the gate opens too far. Whenever a ball in the pops bounces off the gate it springs open allowing the ball to pass through. The wider the gate is allowed to open, the more time the ball has to pass through. A zip cord can be used to restrict the gate opening without interfering with it's intended purpose.
I actually have mine tightened down to just slightly smaller than the ball size. There's still enough give that a ball with any speed can pass through from the outside, but the gate will never open wide enough to allow it to exit from the pops side.[quoted image][quoted image]
Very cool, simple, and effective ! I'm gonna be tempted to try this...I think we need to call it the BeekerZip fix...I partially agree with Alattig about keeping the game true, but it's frustrating when those leaks happen...not when I don't hit it hard enough, that's on me, but when it's already in the pops and goes crazy down the middle right after from springing the gate
Quoted from Alattig:
From Keith (who is a pinball designer) on TiltForums:
Current Or Former World Pinball Champion
Also had a number of balls come out of the pops via the lower ‘one-way’ gate, although I assume this should be easily fixed with some manual tweaking.
Keith: That’s by design. Keeps you on your toes
Ah thanks, well, by design it is... It does make you a better player for sure
Quoted from Jodannar:
Put on the new code tonight. Escape Nublar is a very different mode to play the game in.
With the translight out during the update I noticed that my week old Playfield had tonnes of tiny scratches running down it. Balls are all clean and no burrs. not sure what’s caused it. Unless they were there from factory. All seem to be running down the Playfields This is my first new stern, is it to be expected? I expected the dimpling but tiny scratches in the clear coat are a surprise.
It's just because of the thinner clear... Don't Novus 2 right now.. Just clean it and use a couple light coats of Blitz Wax and then use Novus 1 to clean grime and buff periodically... After about 100 games every week, I'll do a light cleaning and light wax recoat, those little scratches don't appear anymore, you will see over time, ball marks from the wax moving under the heat of the ball friction similar to burn marks on a felt pool table, there's a lot of energy transfer going on under the glass... Those wax smudges are just that fortunately, smudges that clean really with a little clean towel buffing.
Here's a little trick of mine that works amazing:
First make sure your hand is clean, and no rings, watches etc...
Next use your entire hand Palm down on the surface and gently rub and glaze on the wax after you put down a little with the pad, or you can just do it with your hand... Keeping your hand as flat as possible, gently rub on the wax, wirhin a couple passes, you'll start to see a glass like shine appear... Stop and let dry, then lightly wipe off with a very soft detailing microfiber or cloth towel... You will have a glass finish that lasts for more than a week of heavy play
Quoted from Jediturtle:
A couple dino upgrades. Way better than the lizard head original T-Rex. Just have to cover up or hide the old mounting holes on the backboard. Might need to come up with a better mount at some point but for now he holds himself in place really well with no modifications.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Cool shot between the legs!
Quoted from snaroff:
I think I've only gotten 2 of the 11 so far (Ankylosaurus, Gallimimus). Do you recall how many you've gotten? Some of them are pretty tough/obscure...
I've scored: (having them bug out on the latest code is a bummer)
Quoted from Skeets:
Has Keith chimed in on the DNA combos?
Just curious if they were purposely removed or it was an accident with the new code update.
He said on Tilt forums it was a bug and they will be back soon.
I'm thinking about doing a revert to .97 until then to get them back
Quoted from cooked71:
Really, didn’t realize that. I’m sure I’ve had smart missile with an open Truck shot.
If you have another ball in play, you can hit the truck to open the Lane before the missle fires AFTER you trigger the shot with the other ball... If you just have a single ball going, the open truck shot will be on Super Spinner and not Smart missle
Quoted from WizardsCastle:
So when the truck is turned to be a tighter shot, do you just shoot for the spinner and hope it makes it in the pool bumpers to register the missile shot?
That could be a strategy, but I usually go for the direct shot. It's more satisfying making that target directly through the pops. Sometimes if I have a 2nd ball in play, I'll try to hit the truck to open the Lane but that rarely works timing wise. I think it's more of a psychological shot than anything, there is plenty of room but the space and countdown sometimes make you overthink it.. It's really a great shot
The added MXV skill shot... Is that the Mike Vinikour shot?
No spoilers if you find it
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside