(Topic ID: 248582)

Jurassic Park (Stern 2019) Owners Club. Welcome! To Jurassic park.....

By Scribbles

2 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

10 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #72 Custom Jurassic Park apron cards Posted by Coindropper (2 years ago)

Post #230 Custom Apron Cards for Stern JP Posted by Coindropper (2 years ago)

Post #326 Rules tips and info on some wizard modes Posted by sk8ball (2 years ago)

Post #365 Printable Instruction cards for the pin Posted by PinballZach (2 years ago)

Post #366 The first Full Unboxing Video Posted by ZMeny (2 years ago)

Post #425 Feature Matrix of Pro vs Premium vs LE Posted by Scribbles (2 years ago)

Post #468 How to qualify control room modes Posted by jonesjb (2 years ago)

Post #2298 Keith Elwin explains JP rules Posted by MRG (2 years ago)

Post #3040 Raptor target not registering or "ghost" registering, possible fix Posted by Jesder (2 years ago)

Post #5270 make the jeep work well Posted by Scribbles (1 year ago)


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#2553 2 years ago

Played the Pro model at the Portland Retro Gaming Expo and was absolutely blown away with this game. Hoping to order a table after the holiday season (And the PF issues hopefully settle), but picked up what will be a fun topper in the meantime

https://www.lego.com/en-us/product/jurassic-park-t-rex-rampage-75936

#2562 2 years ago

I am weak...

I couldn't wait until after the holidays and just ordered a JP3 Pro which should be delivered on Monday.

#2567 2 years ago
Quoted from Multiballmaniac1:

Good luck. From what I heard today is that stern no longer doing populated playfield replacements.

I asked about the pooling/chipping issues. The table is a recent manufacture date and is supposed to have the newer artwork spacing changes and the different clear coat. Hopefully there's no major problems and I can just enjoy the new table...

Quoted from Jon9508:

They wouldnt send me one out . I just got a blank one. But at least I got a new playfield. Going to be a pain moving everything over though.

Wow, they didn't contract someone to do the swap for you?

#2618 2 years ago
Quoted from Krh13:

I am about to order a JP pro as our first NIB and I am looking for peoples opinions regarding setting the machine up. I am very much a rookie with working on pinball machines and wonder on how to set up the machine. Should I go with a local distributor and have the machine delivered and set up by them or pick it up and set it up ourselves?

Tables are heavy, plus another 20-40 pounds for the boxing/crating; the Stern JP flyer says 280 pounds boxed and 250 unboxed. Unless you have a forklift or a hand truck plus ramps to get it out of the back of your vehicle, that's going to really suck to dead-lift to the ground. If you can get a reasonable price on at least delivery, I'd say it's likely worth it to avoid loading/unloading hassle if you aren't equipped for it already.

Quoted from Krh13:

I have set up some used machines and have watched unboxing videos but am worried about problems out of the box. I would love to have the family there as we un box and set the machine up together but would hate it if it's not playable due to something that's over my head. Is it common to have a few problems NIB and how easy are the adjustments/repairs usually?

You shouldn't have to do much more than standard assembly, inspection, and leveling if anything. The only additional step for a NIB that I know of you may not have done with used machines is wipe the oil off of new pinballs before loading them in the machine.

I would think if there is a major play-prevention issue with the table (i.e. DOA electronics), a shop person is likely going to be just as stuck as you would be unless they happen to have spares. I'm personally opting to pay more for installation because my table is going upstairs and they have the equipment to make that a much easier process.

Call and talk to your shop, find out what delivery and install costs are, and what they can and will help with in the event of unexpected problems. Then you can make an educated decision if it's worth it and/or get some added piece of mind with your new table setup. You're about to spend $6k with them, they should be more than willing to answer a few questions on delivery and install options

#2654 2 years ago

Woohoo! Table arrived today and had a chance to play a few games, it's such an awesome table layout.

Not sure if I need to make some other PF adjustments since I'm only getting about 1/5 plunger shots through the half-pipe, plus I'm having a really difficult time getting the ball up the T-Rex/left ramp. Most of my shots just seem to rattle left to right just past the flap and roll back out. I'm not the greatest by any stretch, but yikes it seems way tougher to hit that left ramp than it was when I played it at PRGE.

#2671 2 years ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

I've found this game to be extremely sensitive to play field angle as well as left to right angle... Also playfield angles very throughout the top in the bottom so I would take the average and always go conservatively and lean towards the lower...6.5 is the sweet spot
As soon as I did this I started making all my shots and the game actually sped up seems to play like I've seen in the videos...

Prior to leveling, slope was around 7.8 degrees and now it's about 6.7; no difference on me hitting ramps or the launch half-pipe bricking. Left to right was leaning to the right 0.2 degrees and is now dead on 0.0 degrees. All measurements were taken off of the PF surface at the base of the ramps and at the flippers.

I still have the stock blacks on the flippers which might also be a factor since the PRGE tables all had reds and that's more what I'm used to on my other tables. My pinball skills aren't good enough to easily compensate for the difference

Quoted from Rob_G:

I have my premium at 6.9 degrees and that seems about right. The half pipe is very consistent with 100% manual plunges and about 90% auto launches.

The auto-launcher fairs better than me with the plunger getting up the half-pipe. I noticed when there is a bricking issue, the ball is traveling more on the left side of the shooting lane. I was trying to find the post, someone mentioned backing off the lower left launch ramp screw and slightly propping up that side with a washer/grommet to better guide the ball to the middle of the lane. If there isn't an obvious plunger alignment problem I might try that next to see if it helps.

#2678 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

So I'm hearing that the new JP's are coming with thinner clear and it's good? What do you guys think about this?

My Pro table arrived yesterday, no pooling that I can find. I can feel a very slight ridge around the edge of inserts. No dimpling, but my table is only a day old with ~20 plays.

#2685 2 years ago
Quoted from Scribbles:

I was wondering if the thickness of the clear was perhaps the culprit in all the pooling issues. The 2 older sterns I've owned didn't have nearly as thick a layer of clear on them. Even my GoTG from 2017 is thin compared to JP. Perhaps someone just got a little overzealous with the application, and hence the pooling. Where did you hear that newer machines might be shipping with less clear?? That's interesting.

Here's some pics of my new Pro's PF I took this morning:

Upper flipper post
Raptor cage right posts

#2711 2 years ago
Quoted from Breger1:

I do start at beginning and play all paddocks, but it's not letting me do spinosaurus? I'm guessing I don't have the truck facing the correct direction before beginning the spinosaurus paddock

The paddock mode you start depends on the direction the truck is facing when you hit the left ramp after lighting M-A-P. You can only get to the Spinosaurus paddock by going right from the Stegosaurus paddock or left from the Compsognathus paddock.

Quoted from Breger1:

...then I reach visitor center and can't go back and play it?

You have to complete Spinosaurus before you reach the Pteranodon or Velociraptor paddocks.

Quoted from Breger1:

What do you mean by long road? I thought you had to progress through paddocks from the start

You can get to the Visitor Center completing as few as five paddocks/modes by taking all left turns or all right turns up the map, or up to eight if you alternate left and right turns and complete some or all of the super predator paddocks (Dilophosaurus (Spitter), Tyrannosaurus Rex, Spinosaurus) up the middle.

#2760 2 years ago
Quoted from the_belgian:

Are there premiums with playfieldproblems or is this a problem of the past now? I want to buy one thx

The playfield clear coat pooling/chipping seems be an issue on earlier runs. Recent new posts show a thinner coating and no issues, but YMMV...

#2777 2 years ago

My failed idea for a topper. Turned out to be too top heavy with nudging, will likely end up putting this on a shelf just above the backbox instead.

IMG_20191117_124508 (resized).jpg

#2784 2 years ago

I don't think I could pull off this again if I tried...

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#2787 2 years ago
Quoted from J85M:

If Stern’s official topper is anything like that (it must be the gates right?) it would be a must buy!

The boxed Lego set fits the table theme really well even though it's "Jurassic World", I'm bummed it has to go on a shelf above the table instead. Unfortunately the T-Rex has weak ankles, both it and the gate were swaying a lot when testing. I don't think gluing it would have helped much, either. The last thing I wanted is the legs to snap on a forward nudge and the whole thing come down through the cabinet glass.

13
#2810 2 years ago

Feel like I had to do something since it doesn't move

IMG_20191121_203037 (resized).jpg
#2920 2 years ago
Quoted from SheriffBarclay:

So i know everyone here has been routinely getting to visitor center before 0.95 and putting up 900m on ball 1 and stuff..
I barely make it through 3 paddocks. My GC is 300m. I have the outlane posts in the default middle position and haven't changed any EB settings.

I'm right there with you, but learning more and getting better.

#2928 2 years ago
Quoted from Scribbles:

It WILL come to you at some point. Just keep playing, and get better and better at feeling the shots. I'm also learning about nudging very quickly thanks to JP. Lol

It feels like there are some crazy physics going on at times. A good bounce off of the top of the right slingshot almost always beelines into the left outlane. I've also had quite a few balls that started down the inner lanes and must be spinning enough to walk back up the half to full ball width and take the outlane path instead. I switched to white rubbers and it somehow seems to be worse than the stock blacks that came with the table.

Quoted from marksf123:

I read the rules and now try to put some thought into the shots and now I am really bad. I was better before when i was just shooting at anything - frustrating. I am much better at games that favor the right flipper but this game has the "o" and the "s". I struggle with those.

What's helping me learn better aim is looking at the ball's position on the flipper longer, and waiting until after it's left the flipper before looking to see where it went. I'm also trying to learn what I can backhand with a high consistency, like the raptor pit entrance from the left flipper, and the right set trap target from the right flipper. The right loop and Helipad are tough shots though, I agree.

#2931 2 years ago
Quoted from JediMcMuffin:

What do you mean by "dropped my outlane posts all the way down". Are they moveable??!

Yep, this is the left outlane post, note the hole on each side:

The lower hole (Left in picture) will make an outlane drain easier to avoid

#2934 2 years ago
Quoted from spidey:

Here's a pro tip. You don't have to adjust your upper flipper alignment to make the helipad shot. Just press the right flipper button to raise the flipper while you shoot it with your left flipper. This is like in TZ, which has an upper right flipper shot that requires raising the upper left flipper.

I don't see this being quite the same as the TZ camera shot; the post in front of the flipper prevents this. Even if you do end up banking the ball off the underside of the upper right flipper, does it always keep enough momentum to still make it up the half-pipe?

That, and if you are hitting the raised flipper you actually made the right orbit shot and missed the Helipad. Wouldn't you be better of just letting it go through the right orbit to recover and try again?

#2940 2 years ago
Quoted from shane63026:

I have not read all through the posts so if someone has already asked I'm sorry! What game is better TZ or the premium Jurassic park. I'm thinking of letting my TZ go and buying one. I'm out of room so 1 has to go.

Way too subjective to answer. TZ is one of the greats; I'd hate to see someone let it go simply due to space as opposed to folding it up and parking it for a while. As awesome as JP is, you liked TZ enough to buy and maintain it and may kick yourself later for letting it go.

#3057 2 years ago

Another update coming this month, per Stern of the Union Address news:

"Jurassic Park – For all Jurassic Park owners, please make sure you have updated your game to the most current code version (v0.95.0). This code contains multiple new wizard modes, bug fixes, enhancements and additional polish. Be on the lookout for a new code update later this month."

#3063 2 years ago

So the multiball+smart missile issue impacts Pros as well with the 0.95.0 version. Just had the game lock up and reset during T-rex multiball.

#3124 2 years ago
Quoted from trk12fire:

However, at the end of one game the volume went up super loud and crackled for 5 seconds. It only did it once out of the ten games I played. Hopefully the issue doesn't come back.

Turn off the replay noise.

#3125 2 years ago

Anyone else have a problem with applying the .96 code? The update finished installing and I got to the power cycle screen. I turned the table off, pulled the USB out and close everything up, and now nothing happens when I turn the machine on...

Edit: Apparently turning it off for a third time and opening the coin door before turning it on again was the trick.

#3144 2 years ago
Quoted from trk12fire:

Is it caused by the new code? I was thinking of trying to reload the code

Nope, I had it happen to me on 0.91.0. Makes a terrible loud screech/garbled noise and then goes back to normal. I happen to be looking at the screen at the start of the screech and saw the replay animation. Sent a comment in on the issue, Chas just told me I can turn the knocker sound off in the menu. Thinking maybe I wasn't clear enough.

The museum madness insert not lighting up in the attract mode radar sweep animation bugs me too. Can't unsee it now.

#3149 2 years ago
Quoted from trk12fire:

This might fix the problem, but then I'm missing my Stern replay chirp when someone wins a game. Since the game is on location, it's even more important to have it on. It used to work, not sure what happened.

It works most of the time, I think this issue is tied to a end-of-ball earned replay based on my limited experience and what others have described. It was after a right outlane drain when it happened to me, I can't remember if it was the end of a game or not. I remember the table lights being dark, hearing the screech and seeing the Dilophosaurus animation. My table is home use so I normally keep the game at a volume of 4. It scared the crap out of me when it happened since it shot up to about 15 for the screech replay screen, then back down again.

This only happened to me once and never again since I turned off the kicker sound. The programmer in me is curious to see how the SPIKE2 audio scripting works. Maybe the Dilophosaurus spitting sound during the replay animation combines with the "beep kicker" sound on a single track which gets over-processed with a temporary kicker volume increase. The music track seemed ok in the audio background, just temporarily louder like everything else.

#3151 2 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

I already tried adjusting the switches, but it's hard to tell when they're right when it works all the time in test. Anybody find anything else about these?

It sounds like you need to take a look at the optos, not the switches. Air balls going by at higher speeds may not block enough of the opto signal and the loops don't register.

There's a few posts in the Premium/LE thread on this issue. Have you seen or tried either the tape strip methodof blocking the lower part of the metal guide openings or shimming the optos higher
on the mounting brackets with washers?

#3154 2 years ago
Quoted from Its_me_aj:

Has anyone received their replacement play fields yet?

I think some have, may want to read through the main PF issue related thread:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/continued-playfield-issues-with-jjp-and-stern

1 week later
#3193 2 years ago

Anyone else seeing cracking in some of the PF inserts?

#3198 2 years ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

my LE has crazing yes

TIL this insert cracking has an official term...

Quoted from heyitsjoebob:

What do you mean? Can you share a pic?

Not a good one at present, but I can take a picture after I get home from work. It is crazing, and seems to be on a few inserts. I have a feeling this isn't something Stern will be willing to address.

#3220 2 years ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

Yes I don't worry or care about that. Someone asked for pics because they were concerned about insert "cracking". Pretty sure they meant the crazing we see. It's pretty common.

It was me that brought up the question initially. It is crazing, and some of my inserts look just like what you
posted. I'm still learning these sorts of details as I'm getting deeper into the hobby and didn't know crazing is somewhat normal.

JP is my first NIB table, and with the other reported JP playfield issues combined with not seeing this on my other two tables, I was concerned this was a bigger issue than it really is. I'm a player, not a collector, I'm just doing my best to take care of my pins and learning as I go...

1 week later
#3322 2 years ago
Quoted from Saucerboy:

Here is the sticker I got with my game.., is it for something? Included manual for size reference.

Nothing on the game, it's just a freebie Stern included. There should also have been a ziptop bag with a few replacement stickers for the stand-up targets, for the Pro model a second Raptor pen plastic, and a few keychain fobs that I used for the coin door and backglass keys.

#3356 2 years ago
Quoted from iceman44:

Museum mayhem? No idea how to get there

Clear all of the T-Rex modes

Quoted from Scribbles:

Visitors center is started once you've done all of the T rex event modes.

Clearing Paddocks gets you to Visitor Center. T-Rex clears open Museum Mayhem.

1 week later
#3439 2 years ago
Quoted from flipper73:

hi,
i have two questions according to the map of the stern homepage i have attached:
1. why are there 2 visitor centers shown? i thought where the „mission“ starts there is the main gate.

Mistake, the bottom "Visitor Center" should be "Main Gate"

Quoted from flipper73:

2. why have the locations (points) of the t-rex and the spinosaurus a bigger size than the other dino locations (like spitter, gallimimus, etc.)

Probably because of the difficulty level, and the additional capture bonus you get above and beyond the Jurassic Perk. T-Rex gives an extra ball, and Spino
starts King of the Island.

#3492 2 years ago
Quoted from woody76:

yep, there are a couple things that need some tightening up

Care to be more specific? Haven't had a chance to play .97 yet to see for myself, nor can I make it to the post-Visitor Center game where more of the recent changes exist.

#3554 2 years ago
Quoted from Dantesmark:

Can u shoot a pic of where u put the washer?
Thx!

Right here:

IMG_20200112_090606 (resized).jpg
#3617 2 years ago
Quoted from SheriffBarclay:

I can't remember where it was before, but it looks like my newton ball/captive ball is about to lift off through the glass, Willy Wonka elevator style...
Is it supposed to be this high? Surely not. About to lift the playfield, I assume it's a screw underneath.[quoted image]

No, it should be just about flush with the PF, and level with the ball on the truck assembly.

#3619 2 years ago
Quoted from PunishersLEMC:

What about flipper button cabinet protectors - mylar or rails?

Stern has officially licensed rails as an option:

https://shop.sternpinball.com/products/jurassic-park-side-armor

Quoted from PunishersLEMC:

When I use auto plunger it goes up scoop and back and goes onto right flipper - a soft plunge causes it to go onto PF - is this correct? I dont see a way for it to go around orbit

A full pull on the plunger and the auto-launch should get the ball up the halfpipe and back down on the helicopter rails to the right flipper. Intentional short plunges should come out of the helipad lane to the flippers.

Things to check and do:

  • Make sure the table is level left to right, JP is sensitive to proper leveling and pitch. The manual says the table should be at a six and a half degree pitch, Keith Elwin recommends seven.
  • Some plungers have needed alignment to make sure it is properly centered on the ball in the shooter lane trough
  • Highly recommended to go into the adjustments menu and lower the shooting lane solenoid (Not auto-launch) power to the lowest possible setting to help reduce lane wear.
  • If auto-launch and full-strength plunger pulls do not go up the halfpipe 90% or more of the time, it is very common for the left fork of the metal shooter lane ramp to need propping up with washers or other support underneath. I used washers on mine, putting the left fork's screw through the middle of the washers to help hold them in place. Be sure that the top of the left fork is not propped up above the playfield surface to avoid damaging pinballs. When it's needed, raising the left metal fork helps auto and full-strength ball launches go all the way up the halfpipe significantly more reliably.
  • The plunger should have an orange spring, some tables (Mine included) shipped with a green spring. The spring in my table is too weak to get the ball up the halfpipe when letting go of the plunger after holding the plunger fully extended. I have to do more of a "lawnmower start" pull, or use the auto-launch, in conjunction with the ramp adjustment above to get the ball up the halfpipe to the ramp
1 week later
#3741 2 years ago
Quoted from Tiltbob:

Never had this happen. Is this happening to Pros for some reason?

That's because you have a Premium; Pros don't have the Raptor Pen post or the Newton gate. Shots on the back Raptor Pen standup target are designed to drain out of the Control Room lane so they get stopped on the Control Room lane post for the Rapture Capture event. The pictured one-way gate keeps Control Room lane shots from coming out of the Raptor Pen.

Quoted from Dantesmark:

Lose the gate.

Removing the gate would hinder if not completely prevent post captures for Control Room mode starts on Pro tables, the ball could drain out of the Raptor Pen instead.

#3744 2 years ago
Quoted from Scribbles:

I dont think that would be a good idea

I would agree. Beyond SDTM drain avoidance, it puts the flipper mech and bat at a higher damage risk. I would rather deal with repairing a post over a flipper.

1 week later
#3900 2 years ago

DNA combos definitely MIA. Maybe they can fix the "Shoot the left ramp" call-out playing after the final bonus screen while they're at it.

#3930 2 years ago

This is a new one for a "stuck" ball...

IMG_20200209_190729b (resized).jpg

#3933 2 years ago
Quoted from ectobar:

Get out the pitch forks boys! Stern is going to pay for this. You should probably ask you're distributor for a brand new fully populated playfield.

I will settle for nothing less than a no-cost delivered Premium full table replacement for this virtually unplayable manufacturing defect in my Pro as compensation for my inconvenience.

Quoted from Scribbles:

What the heck is going on there???

The ball was rolling up the inlane and had just enough oomph to stop at the edge of the rollover switch cutout and "fall" into the hole. A simple nudge got the ball free. The vibration from the ball search would have likely jostled it free, but I wasn't feeling patient enough to wait for it after taking the picture.

#3971 2 years ago
Quoted from Frboisvert:

Anyone experienced INVALID? FRENZY by choosing with smart missil, fun and weird...worth it!

Did you activate it while in a dino capture mode? That gets super crazy!

#3977 2 years ago
Quoted from Nameim:

When shooting for the smart missile launch, why would a player choose "abort" from the action button?

You are in multiball with your left flipper tied up or limited chance to make the shot and you don't want to waste it.

#4034 2 years ago
Quoted from Yesh23:

Can someone please explain Raptor multiball? My take is you need to hit the 3 targets inside, then hit the raptor target in the back, then a bunch of the targets again to start it.

You have to hit the three front targets twice (Increasing by one after each multiball) or the back target once to light the raptor lock/capture. Once the lock is lit, you have to hit the back target to do the Rapture Capture event. For Prem/LE tables this lifts the gate and captures a ball in the pen as the Newton target, for Pros the ball goes through the pass-through and stops on the Control Room/C lane post then dumps to the left flipper. To start MB, you have to drop the fence integrity to zero by hitting any of the targets in the pen, the back target causes a bigger integrity percentage drop. Once the fence integrity is at zero (Flashing bolt inserts and the music change), you have to hit the back target to start Raptor MB.

Quoted from Yesh23:

The reason I ask is there are sometimes I'll hit the front of the post going into the raptor pin and it will register as a hit. I was thinking the vibration was causing a switch to register but I place it in switch test and pound balls off that post and nothing is registering. Also, if I have the integrity down to 0% sometimes launching a ball will start the mode that makes me think of a vibration again but again I'll place the machine in switch test and vibrate the machine and nothing. I'm stumped.

Check the back target to make sure it isn't getting intermittently stuck behind the rubber on the post right next to the standup target. That could cause some switch chatter, and would explain why you can start Raptor MB by only hitting somewhere in the front of the raptor pen, or that you sometimes need to really hit the back target solid for it to register (i.e. it's caught on the "front side" of the post rubber).

You can fix this by putting a washer/shim under one side of the standup target mounting bracket so the target leans away from the post just enough for clearance to move freely.

#4038 2 years ago
Quoted from Yesh23:

Thank you, that's exactly hat it was. It works like a charm now. Now I just need to figure out how to make the plunge work on each plunge

Make sure you have an orange spring on the plunger and not a green one, your table is level left to right, and possibly put a washer or two under the shooter lane ramp's left fork.

#4045 2 years ago
Quoted from Yesh23:

Can you explain or snap a picture of the washers under the fork?

I used two thinner washers since it is what I had on hand. Don't lift the front of the fork higher than the routed edge of the playfield. It doesn't take much and you don't want to chip the pinballs going up the ramp.

IMG_20191113_005418 (resized).jpgIMG_20200112_090606 (resized).jpg
2 weeks later
#4237 2 years ago
Quoted from DugFreez:

So many setting on this game. I just gave them a quick flip through last weekend. Could anyone point me to any shaker motor settings? I found the shaker test in the diagnostics / coil test, but didn't see any other adjustments for it or how often or strongly it is used. It did work so I didn't sweat it at the time.

I believe the Shaker use option is in the feature adjustments, adjustable between none, limited, normal, and Max. The intensity of the actual motor shake is a physical adjustment.

#4256 2 years ago
Quoted from kpg:

So I checked it yesterday and it did feel it had more resistance then the left flipper. So I took it apart and I put some synthetic grease in there and it seems to be working a bit better now. Ultimately I'm going to just replace the whole assembly I think, but there is definitely an improvement now. Thanks man !

You should never need to grease any part of the flipper assembly; they are designed to operate dry. Is there a small amount of up and down play on the flipper? The flipper being tightened flush against the bushing can cause the resistance you are feeling.

1 week later
#4316 2 years ago

September build date for my Pro. Has the thinner clear, pulled back artwork as you can see, and the improved post. Just noticed this today when I was cleaning the table...☹️

IMG_20200321_140035 (resized).jpg
#4326 2 years ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

That's the alignment dot for the upper right flipper

Three of them?

#4368 2 years ago
Quoted from Lounge:

Mine is the same. I also did the fork fix with the washers but I need to take a peek at some slo-mo on my auto-launch.
Unfortunately auto-plunge kicks in a lot on this game - add-a-ball, ball save, multi-ball - and it is very inconsistent on my game. Wondering if it’s an electronics issue at this point (dying coil)??

I'm curious if the auto-launch isn't waiting long enough after the kickout into the lane, and it just needs another half-second or so for the ball to settle before trying to launch.

2 weeks later
#4612 2 years ago
Quoted from jacksparrow0112:

This is my first ever pin, and I am surprised how much fun I am having just getting it dialed in to play exactly how I want it to. It will almost be a shame when everything shoots perfectly...almost.

That'll be right about the time something breaks

4 months later
#6451 1 year ago

Has anyone else had shots rattle out of the right ramp entrance and still trigger a successful ramp hit? This happened once before, but it triggers more frequently for me now; I've had right ramp rejects trigger skill shots, extra balls, rescues, and dino captures so I don't think it's a code thing.

I'm going to take a look to see if there's a problem with the switch and the related gate at the top of the ramp, although I was mostly curious if anyone else had or has this same issue.

#6524 1 year ago
Quoted from DavidPinballWizz:

just adjust the switch

Quoted from jlock:

I have had the same issue. Adjusting the switch helped a lot but did not completely solve. It seems that it could ultimately be solved 100% via switch adjustment but it has been more elusive than I would have expected.

Yep, was totally the switch, the gate barely had to move to trigger the switch. I tweaked the switch arm up so the gate has to move way farther now.

2 weeks later
#6767 1 year ago
Quoted from RedDragons5:

Been having an issue for about a week....looking for suggestions. Spinner shot from either flipper is only going clean around to upper right flipper about 10% of the time. Very clunky lately and I'm not even getting the ball to bounce in the pops after a "clunky" shot. Just rolls right through. Pitch is at 7.0 and seems to be pretty level left to right. Anyone else have this issue?

Have the flippers become weaker in general? If so, have you replaced the coil stops?

3 weeks later
#7222 1 year ago
Quoted from Galvez1978:

There are any tutorial for clean and wax? What kind of product i must buy? What kind of balls? And in how many plays i must do the maintenance?
Regards!!!

Naptha for cleaning playfields and rubber, Windex or your favorite glass cleaner for the glass and plastics, and a 100% Carnauba wax with no solvents.

#7255 1 year ago
Quoted from BeeGee6533:

What do you recommend for cleaning the steel ramps? Is Novus 1 ok? Will naphtha work on the stainless steel without harming?
Thx!

Novus 1 will be about as effective as Windex, and I've had no issue with Naptha damaging or discoloring the ramps on JP. Note that you must use a very well ventilated area for Naptha, and while it does an amazing low scrubbing effort to remove pencil lines and dirt from rubber, it will take off playfield wax just as easy.

#7298 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

So is it best to disconnect everything in the backbox or in the cabinet (by your photo it looks like you did it in the backbox)?

I'd say backbox so they drop into the cabinet. This way you don't have long cables dangling out of the backbox when you're moving it. I don't think it matters, otherwise.

#7310 1 year ago
Quoted from RGAires:

Is on maximal use my friend, and i make ramps and combos, skills shots... nothing, only when i hit the truck and at a begin of a start mode.
Is very secure for sure

Is this a frequency issue (How often the motor spins), or an intensity issue (How strong is the shaking)?

1 week later
#7479 1 year ago
Quoted from JMCFAN:

Is there a"cheat sheet" etc with the rules and game modes etc..? Have one for Munsters and Batman....waiting on my Prem...

I don't know about a "cheat sheet", but there is a solid rules outline on Tilt Forums: http://tiltforums.com/t/stern-jurassic-park-rulesheet/5644

#7529 1 year ago
Quoted from newpinbin:

Going to try removing the screws as I don't want to risk bending/breaking it. Are the 2 screws you are referring to for the adjustment on the side of the device? They seem to be in a very tight space. Do I need to remove the ramp post to better access them?

They'll go through the side of the switch body. Honestly, I'd recommend adjusting the actuator over taking apart the ramp.

I can appreciate the caution, but light pressure is all it will likely need, about the same as a leaf switch. You might put a little too much of a bend and have to straighten the actuator arm out again, or more likely the actuator could pop off the switch body and it will have to be clipped back on again. You're not going to permanently break the actuator arm unless you do something crazy like repeating sharp bends back and forth or try to fold it in half.

Even if you totally destroy the switch, it's a $5 part, tops:

https://www.pinballlife.com/data-eastsegastern-switch-180-5010-04.html

In that picture you can see one side of the actuator clip that pops over the little plastic nubs on the switch body.

8 months later
#10991 10 months ago
Quoted from chickenscratch:

Side question, would anyone have or snap a pick of washer/spring order on rod. Is there a washer on outer cushion spring as well as one on each side of main power spring?

There's no need to add additional washers. Pinball Life has a good assembly picture showing where the two flat washers should go:

Stern ball shooter assembly picture from Pinball Life

There is also the e-clip just behind the plunger tip rubber that retains the inner spring and sort of acts like a washer.

Quoted from chickenscratch:

Going to try a single washer under fork instead of double, stronger/weaker auto plunge, etc. one at a time, maybe a stronger spring or extra washer on main spring to get it into a tighter coil (not sure that’s how it works but sounds reasonable) and then move onto a Stern ticket as I’m running out of options.

Some general tips in case you haven't tried them yet:

JP seems to be really picky about level. Use a level with a digital readout and make sure the table is level side to side, measuring off the playfield and not the cabinet or glass. Ignore the bubble level on the playfield and measure the playfield pitch near the flippers and closer to the truck assembly. You'll likely get different readings, you can average them or lean more toward the flipper area pitch, your call. Keith Elwin recommended a seven degree pitch, I prefer a six and a half to make the ball exits out of the pop area gate near the truck a little easier to save.

For the shooting lane ramp, do you have a slow motion video record option on your phone? A slow motion video of a ball launch will show if the ramp forks need adjusting. The premise behind using the washers is that the routed cutout for the ramp is too deep on the left fork on some (Maybe all) playfields, so the ball doesn't travel up the middle of the launch ramp and drifts left. This misalignment makes manual plunges and auto-launches of the ball hit the Helicopter half-pipe off-center and reject, or brick entirely in extreme cases. Lifting the left fork with washers makes sure the ball travels up the ramp channel each time, although it shouldn't be raised so high the ball catches the front edge of the fork.

As for the plunger inner spring, the green spring that ships with tables will be generally too weak to make launches up the half-pipe unless you rip the plunger, orange is ideal (And reportedly what should be included), and blue works but a bit too strong and hits the half-pipe pretty hard with longer pulls. Other than the spring strength or the shooter rod not moving smoothly through the shaft, the other big item is checking the plunger rod tip is vertically and horizontally aligned with the center of the ball in the plunger lane. That might mean removing the assembly and cutting out bigger openings for the plate screw shafts if it's really bad. I'd strongly recommend trying an orange spring to see if it resolves manual plunger issues before carving on the cabinet, though.

For the auto plunger, the ball should make even contact with both forks on the auto-plunger kicker arm. Another assembly picture from Marco Specialties in the lower left shows the rounded forks I'm talking about that sit behind and strike the ball:

Auto-plunger assembly picture from Marco Specialties

If only one fork touches the ball, or the ball has to shift sideways in the lane to rest on both forks when you pull the plunger rod back, bend one or both forks with a pair of pliers as needed. Ideally, the ball should only move forward or backward in the lane switching between resting on the shooter rod tip and kicker arm forks. It might be worth a try to bend the tips of the forks a little closer together to contact more toward the center of the pinball (Maybe 5/8"-3/4" apart?) making sure the forks can't clip the shooter rod assembly.

If aligning or adjusting the forks doesn't fix the auto-plunge issue, try dropping the auto-plunger power value by five or ten from default and see what happens. It seems counter-intuitive to lower the strength to start, but if the plunge strength is too hard, the ball can bounce off the back of the half-pipe more that it will roll up the half pipe. If the auto-plunges are rolling partway up the half-pipe and back down or rolling up the half-pipe and dropping straight down before getting to the rail, then you can start incrementing the plunger power by fives until you find a value that consistently makes it up the half-pipe.

#10995 10 months ago

I'd say you need the washer lift, it looks like the ball is pushing to the left after passing the forks.

#10997 10 months ago

Here's a clip from mine, you can see how the forks sort of realign the auto-plunger shot.

https://imgur.com/a/3eKi9eQ

#11012 10 months ago
Quoted from timlah79:

It could very well be that you have a jammed/stuck-ish switch that gets triggered the moment you launch the ball or very soon thereafter. That happens to me from time to time and I think it's some standup target to blame on my machine, but it doesn't happen often enough for me to where I've dug in to figure it out.

Check the stand-up target in the back of the raptor pen.

Quoted from Stormfront:

Or suggestions for tuning new JP machines out of the box?

Let's see what I can still remember:

-Swapping the manual plunger inner spring to the orange version (https://www.pinballlife.com/ball-shooter-plunger-inner-spring-orange.html)
-Align the top edge of the three flipper bat plastics to the alignment holes, not the centers like normal.
-The left fork of the shooting lane ramp often needs a few washers underneath to stop the ball from drifting left and rejecting out of the half-pipe
-Keith Elwin recommends a playfield pitch of seven degrees (I prefer 6.5, but that's me)
-Replace the stock black rubbers off the table to keep the playfield cleaner
-Tighten the upper flipper post; a loose post will start chipping the playfield. Protective washers or rings are also a good idea.
-Make sure the stand-up target in the very back of the raptor pen doesn't rub or catch on the post rubber right next to it (Shim one side of the stand-up brace with washers under the table to lean the target if needed)
-Use tape to block the lower portion of the opto holes in guides/ramps for the orbit and T-Rex ramp to catch faster moving shots or airballs. You can also put washers underneath for a cleaner looking fix.
-Upgrade the thrust bearing on the truck assembly (amazon.com link »)
-Order replacement coil stops for all three flippers. Stern's shipped coil stops used to (and still may) break loose or fail prematurely (https://www.pinballlife.com/flipper-coil-stop-for-sternsega.html)

Almost forgot:
-Drop the ball trough eject strength to the lowest setting

#11096 9 months ago
Quoted from JMCFAN:

The animated Trex was worth the extra $$ to me...

It's a cool feature, yea, but would you rather have the raptor gate and animated T-Rex, or another older machine for that $2k? That was the budget question I had to ask myself that drove my decision in getting the Pro.

Granted, this was also before "pinflation" kicked in and there were more options for machines at a $2k price tag, and the T-Rex didn't do as much then either, making it an easier choice.

#11124 9 months ago
Quoted from zr11990:

well I really suck then

Nah, only new to the table. Keep at it and your scores will improve in no time.

#11133 9 months ago
Quoted from chickenscratch:

Hmm… so tried the orange spring and unfortunately made the manual plunger issue much worse. Auto-plunge I can’t seem to resolve either. I can’t win ha-ha! Running out of options here on this dang shooter lane which never completely worked oob; going to need to open up a Stern ticket me thinks.

Is it still drifting to the left? Any pictures of the washers under the fork?

You could also try a blue spring like I have, but I'd advise against doing a full plunge to avoid hitting the right orbit shot from the shooting lane via making a hole in the half-pipe. It might be a good idea to check the auto-plunger coil and assembly under the playfield to make sure there isn't a mechanical issue like the coil sleeve causing binding or a loose/broken coil stop.

2 weeks later
#11323 9 months ago
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

My upper flipper is starting to intermittently fail? I've reflowed the coil connectors along with the switch. The lower flippers are perfect. It'll fire sometimes, half fire other times, but mostly not at all.

Have you checked or replaced the coil stops yet? Coil stops were prone to early failure when JP first started shipping in 2019 and may still be problematic. I highly recommend swapping out all of the coil stops on Stern tables. Try checking continuity on both the flipper and EOS leaf switches to be sure, although I suspect the coil stop "button" is broken off and floating around in the coil sleeve. If so, also replace the coil sleeve for that flipper if the inside of the sleeve is damaged.

Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

Node board!?? Crap, I hope not. Would that be intermittent though?

It's certainly possible if there is a weak or failing connection, although I would expect the CPU to pick up intermittent flipper failures. You can try swapping the node8 and node9 boards (Requires changing jumper settings after swapping connections). I really suspect the coil stop, though, and highly recommend checking that first since it's a common known issue and a much easier test/solution.

Quoted from FatPanda:

Is there an EOS switch on Spike II games? I haven't really had the need to examine flipper parts yet *knockonwood*

Yes, there is an EOS switch. Stern uses single wound flipper coils and rapidly pulses power instead of an alternate lower power hold coil. There is some debate on the functionality of the EOS switch on SPIKE2. For Sega/Stern Whitestar, if a ball impact causes the flipper to drop and close the EOS switch, the board will send a full longer pulse to push the flipper back out which should re-open the EOS switch, and go back to pulsing the coil power to hold the flipper up. Presumable nothing changed for SPIKE/SPIKE2, although it isn't confirmed. For JP/SPIKE2, the EOS switch either does little to nothing except signal the CPU, or the EOS switch handles rebounds the same way it did in the Whitestar era.

3 weeks later
#11607 8 months ago
Quoted from ZoraShinoda:

I noticed that after Visitor's center my game still continued so I assume if i then complete SCR and MM that it will then lite Escape Nublar?

Correct, and all three wizard modes require successful completion to play the final WDRTE mode.

#11642 8 months ago
Quoted from Rat:

I had considered buying ACNC but that was one of the things that made me decide against. I have a JP prem on the way hopefully here in a couple of weeks.

Quoted from etien:

Just checked, this is the case indeed, big turnoff for me as well and I almost pulled the trigger

I agree with Gogdog that it's a serious shame to avoid JP just because the game ends after Escape Nublar/WDRTE. It takes 30-45 minutes just to reach Visitor Center, plus the requirement of needing to complete the four T-Rex modes and three Control Room modes to qualify the other two mini-wizard modes. A "full game" is not only a very difficult task (I've only finished 2/3 mini-wizard modes toward Escape Nublar), it's going to be an hour long game, at least.

2 months later
#12184 6 months ago
Quoted from timlah79:

BUMP since it looks like my question got lost in the mix...

Were you in the Compy paddock at the time?

#12187 6 months ago
Quoted from timlah79:

I think I've heard that too, thanks for the validation!

Unsure but I want to say likely meaning I only recall hearing it when I'm later into the game progression. I'll pay closer attention and see if I can pinpoint it to being in a specific paddock. Just glad to know for now that it's a stock bug.

If it's while you're in the Compy paddock, it's not a bug. Compys are tranq immune as their special ability, so hitting the green arrow shot won't pause them, and the action button super tranq is temp disabled.

#12191 6 months ago
Quoted from baxelrod:

Any tips on making the helicopter shot more successful? There is nothing so disheartening as having the ball go halfway up the scoop and fall back down. Thankfully when this happens the ball usually comes right back to the left flipper and I can try again. But this just keeps happening. It seems like on such a direct hit, this shouldn't happen. Are there any tweaks for this? My left flipper power is already maxed out. What about changing the resting angle of the flipper? Some silicone spray in the scoop?

The flippers should be aligned with the top edge of the flipper plastic (Not the rubber) to the flipper alignment hole, not the center of the flipper plastic like usual. Makes the Control Room and Hellipad shots much easier to make.

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