Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

For lighting you can either choose PinStadium lights (Omegas are what I have) or do your own DIY spotlights. The apron triangles are factory backlit on Prem/LE (don't know about Pro).

Quoted from woody76:

Finally got grand champion tonight. This game was totally kicking my butt so I dialed down the sling power some and had my best game ever. The slings would just drive the ball down the outlanes over and over.

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Just got my Pinball Life headphone/volume control installed and it works great! Definitely a great value vs. the other options (https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-spike-2-headphone-jack-assembly.html). I set it up to control the external volume when no headphones are connected, and when headphones are connected if mutes the speakers and the volume knob controls the headphone volume. The knob has a nice quality feel with a light clicking as you turn the dial.
I also got the knocker installed. That was more of a bear than I expected only because you have to reach deep into the back of the cabinet to screw things down. I was able to find the settings to disable the audible knocker and to enable the physical one, and I just figured out how to test it (coil test #33). Wow! That will make you jump when it fires!
Finally, even though I have an orange shooter rod spring, I decided to buy a silver/gray one which is a few steps up in strength. By feel, I don't really notice much of a difference, but thus far it has performed more reliably than the orange one I had, and most definitely better than green.
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Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Here is the one I bought: amazon.com link »
To mount, I used music wire: amazon.com link »

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Mine is painted in the likeness of the one on the game's art (thanks to pinball_gizzard).
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/179#post-6059089
I basically drilled a tiny hole on his underside (up his bottom, so to speak), then superglued the wire in. Bent to shape with a loop on the other end and screwed down on post.

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I pity the fool that doesn't install custom T-molding!
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Seriously, my order of 3/4" yellow t-molding from http://t-molding.com just arrived today, so I was excited to get it installed. This is my first pin that utilizes t-molding, and I wanted to spruce up the black that came standard on my premium. For my setup, yellow was the obvious choice, but there are a variety of colors to choose from. I ordered the minimum 20 feet of t-molding as this was enough to do one pin with some extra. Actually, you need about 6-1/2 to 7 feet of t-molding per side (this allows for several inches extra when installing).
Given this was the first time I've ever done any t-molding work, I thought I'd document and share the process. To begin with, on the DIY difficulty scale from 1 to 10, I would put this at a 3. You need to know a couple of techniques, have the right tools, and be aware of a couple of things to achieve the perfect t-molding install.
1 - While you may choose to use a different tool for cutting, the tools I used included flush cutters and a rubber mallet (I put tape over the ends so I'd be hitting the t-molding with a clean surface).
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2 - Begin by removing the old t-molding from both sides. In my case this was easily done, so I was careful not to damage the molding in case I ever wanted to re-install it for whatever reason. Start by finding the joint located in the middle of the underside either sideboard. Just using your hands (no tools required), pull down on the edges of the t-molding to pull it away from the groove. Once the end is free, simply follow this process around the full perimeter until the t-molding is fully removed. Be careful and take your time when doing this so as not to damage the board. You should pull the t-molding away from the board in a perpendicular fashion. Also, when removing the current molding, be careful not to let it fall and kink or you will create a bad looking spot in the plastic and will not want to reuse it.
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3 - On a table or the floor, stretch out the new t-molding strip inline with the old so that you know how long of a piece to cut off. I added about 6" extra just in case I messed up an end and so that I could cut the finished in exactly to the correct length. Use your cutters to trim off the new length. Again, align one of the ends of your new piece with an old piece and notice the position of the first notch a few inches from the end. Use your cutters and cut a parallelogram shaped notch in the same location (see next bullet).
4 - To install, position the t-molding on the underside edge so that the notch aligns with the front bottom corner. Use your rubber mallet to tap the t-molding fully and evenly into the slot. Again, "tap" don't pound or hit forcefully. You want to gently tap the full length of the molding to ensure that it is fully seated in the groove and has an even and consistent feel as your run your hand over the length of it. To round the corner, tap the t-molding with the hammer in one hand as you stretch it around the corner with the other. Continue to insert and tap the t-molding in a little at a time as you work around the entire board (i.e. don't insert the t-molding partially all the way around then tap as you will create kinks and high spots doing it this way). As you approach a corner, assess where the groove position will need to be, user your cutters to create it, then proceed until you reach the starting point of the t-molding at bottom-center.
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5 - When you get to the end, fully tap the t-molding in and overlap with the starting point. Now user your cutters to trim the plastic in the exact spot needed so as to create a joint that butts together without a gap.
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6 - Repeat the same process on the other side, then stand back and admire the custom look of your new t-molding installation.
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Remeber - just "tap it in"!

Quoted from PoMC:

$7 set of jungle trees and a $8 raptor adds a lot of visual appeal and scale.
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Quoted from mbl1116:

Joining the club in a few weeks w/ a premium. It will be my first NIB, and I’m wondering what people recommended doing before (or shortly after) the first game.
I have a shaker motor, amber shooter rod, and Cliffy protectors on the way. If you don’t feel like clogging up this thread I’m happy to discuss through private messages. Any and all advice is welcome!

Quoted from mpdpvdpin:

Hmmm...I like the frosted warm white that comes stock. Have you checked your GI brightness setting in the menu?