Quoted from sk8ball:
FYI the speaker rings are brass
Please tell me the shaker will be used in conjunction with this:
Quoted from Coindropper:
And now I’m depressed. That’s what I get for assuming.
I think only Dple and B66sle have shipped with with lit speaker rings. It’s pretty unusual for Stern. But I have to admit it seems strange to not ship them lit on all games where they have coloured speaker rings- can’t be too much harder for a big company like Stern to have them lit.
Quoted from Sinestro:
The designer. His name is Keith Elwin, top ranked pinball player in the world and up and coming star at Stern. If he wants it there, then he has a good reason.
Up posts in the return lane are used in Cactus Canyon. They’re great fun. Surprised it’s taken this long for them to be used again.
How hard is it to shoot the top left Dino ramp? That is a long way back (which is a good thing - up for a challenge). Love having the 2 main ramps at completely different lengths.
Quoted from Captainhook:
I'm probably in for a Premium. I stopped by Game Exchange today after work, I played a few games, it's been in their showroom for four days now and look what I saw. I'm going to hold off on my purchase till this problem is fixed! The third pic was loaded by accident LOL.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Washers AND pooling. At least the washer wouldn’t break the surface of the clear like the star post would.
Quoted from Habeboo:
Just wanted to post some pics and video of our new Jurassic Park topper. It features 3-D custom torches, JP title and molded T-Rex. Really focused on the shape and texture as well as gelling with all three machine models.A dynamic extension whether fully lit or static. One run only so please PM us with questions or to to reserve.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Quoted from tbutler6:
Are you saying you got an email back stating engineering is working on a fix?
"We have top men working on this right now. Top. Men."
If I was to guess, the first "fix" will be from the assembly side - like a complete metal plate under the slings to disperse the pressure.
Followed by working on the clear itself - but that would take time and they already have a lot of playfields in stock that need to be assembled.
Quoted from PoppyCock:
so what are you having a problem believing? Just because you don't like what you hear doesn't mean its not true. Be specific what am I saying that seems so unbelievable?
Really living up to your user name. Everything you type is Poppycock.
(Sorry, but I couldn’t help it......)
Quoted from Scribbles:
I do however find it annoying that the ball rarely makes it up the to the helipad with full plunge.
You might need to swap your plunger spring. I’ve had a couple of Sterns ship from the factory with the same issue. The springs are colour coded. You just need a different color than what’s in there (not sure what order the colours go in). Your Distro should help you out.
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:
Spring tension from lowest to highest: (from pinball life)
That’s the ticket.....check which colour is in JP and ask for the next colour up.
Quoted from Clytor:
This didn't even hold for us. Sounds like red loctite might be in order. I haven't sourced a post yet that will extrude below the play field surface to put a lock nut on. Has anyone else found one?
Hopefully there’s room to fit one under the flipper mech. Anyone tried this? Otherwise wouldn’t be hard to drill a hole in the flipper plate.
Quoted from BeeGeeMtl:
I think we figured this out when we unscrewed the upper-flipper under the playfield.
As you can see, all the "silver thingies" (I don't know what they're called but they're there for screws to be input into them) have a little SCREW screwed over them, so that it won't move as much. You can see a number of them in the picture I took here. But if you look at the one right above the coil, that's basically the bottom of that post that keeps getting loose and it does NOT have a screw over it. Not sure if this was just missed on the assembly line or what (it's located UNDER the flipper coil, so hard to see) but we just added our own little screw over it and voila, problem solved. Hope this helps.
Will try that first together with locktite.
Quoted from HighProtein:
I'm not pulling a flipper mech apart just to check...
So you didn’t use a nut on the underside, just a longer thread? In that case it obviously fitted otherwise you wouldn’t have been able to thread it all the way down.
I thought that was why you were using the longer thread - so you could put a lock nut on the underside.
Be interested to hear if the longer thread alone makes a difference.
Quoted from BrianBannon:
JB Weld might end up working out just fine. I decided to apply a fix that should hold up and be serviceable, too. Took a spare flipper baseplate, ground some material off of it, installed this flipper baseplate in a slighter different position, maybe swiveled it about a half inch to fully expose the t-nut. Now there is room for a longer post with a nylon nut holding it in. Used an old post from my parts bin that has a longer male thread. This is a location game and I just didn't want to keep messing with this post.
Do you have the details of the longer threaded post? (Where and what?).
What about drilling a hole in the base plate to allow for the longer thread with nut?
Quoted from tonedef131:
I'm thinking about looking for a similar post with a threaded base long enough it can go all the way though the playfield nut and then can have a jam nut threaded onto it from below.
Someone earlier posted about doing this. Problem is that the flipper plate sits over where the nut would go. He ground the flipper plate back a bit to accommodate the nut. Someone else said they rotated the whole plate over so the nut was clear of the plate. Either way, I’m assuming the combination of the nut and the locktite will hold that rock solid.
Personally I’m hoping/assuming Stern will address this in production before the LE/Premium’s are manufactured- they must be aware it’s a problem area. sk8ball ????
Quoted from pinballkyle:
Has stern started putting nuts on the post below the 3rd flipper yet on newer builds?
Apparently they have - at least on the LE. Assuming it will be on all models.
Quoted from Charliew65:
#78 is home safely I was up all night changing the bands to Titan Orange, Game is a blast no issues to report and also my post has a nut on it so there should be no issues with the post anymore!!![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Quoted from jalpert:
I'm not being sarcastic, but in what way is the T-Rex phenomenal? It "eats" the ball, moves around a bit and puts the ball on a ramp. Besides the lackluster implementation and the big box for a neck, I guess I don't understand.
And as of right now, the raptor pit is a lot different, but again, it's implementation is more of a secondary objective at this point than a main one.
This game as amazing, but everything amazing about this game is in the pro version. The premium is better, and I went premium because I think this game is that good, but I don't think I'd ever recommend someone go premium over pro on this one.
Genuinely asking, not trying to shit on your post.
The t-Rex is likely the best interactive toy I’ve seen in pinball. Combined with the lighting, shaker and sound it’s incredibly theatric. I’m impressed the engineers at Stern made this and yet I’ve never seen anything else like it from Stern or anyone else.
Sure it doesn’t change actual gameplay, but in terms of entertainment and drawing you in to the JP world it’s brilliant.
Quoted from Tuxedomask23:
I am very close to taking the plunge and buying a NIB JP. However I am still torn whether or not I should be going for pro or premium.
It seems to me that the biggest differences are ones that don’t affect gameplay too too much ie the trex. The only biggest difference is the raptor pit?
In terms of code, is it the same? Unlike other pins like GoT where there is a big difference between pro and premium?
What’s this difference with the raptor pit? The pro just missing the drop down target?
Quoted from jalpert:
It's not that the T-Rex is bad, it's just not good. Having the Dino sit there waiting for you to shoot a ball into it's mouth is very meh. The DE Dino was implemented better, at least it actually ate the ball, it didn't just sit there all goofy with it's mouth open. The implementation is strange.
It's kinda fun that the ball is in the T-Rex I guess, but it just sits there like it's at the doctor waiting to get their throat looked at.
Again, for the raptor pit, it's not bad, it's just not good. The raptor pit is just not important enough to care about such a minor difference.
I don’t think you’re playing the same game - he moves around most of the time. Then for a brief moment during a timed start he lowers his jaw and you shoot the ball in. Then he picks it up, moves around some more, roars, throws it back on the wireform. On some modes he has a tanty and just chucks it wherever he wants.
The DE Dino is so last millennium compared to this.
Quoted from J85M:
Just need a topper now with opening gates, something in the same style as BM66 or Munsters topper artwork mixed with layered sculpting.
Is there talk of a Stern topper? I’ve got the Tilt one which is really nice, but be curious to see if Stern can come up with an interactive one.
Quoted from dirkdiggler:
When the game was first released I played a few quick games and came away just meh. Found one yesterday and put about 15 games on it. Gotta say this game is a blast to play. Have no clue really what to do. Multiballs seem to happen randomly. So many shots from all the flippers. The one I was playing had a weak left flipper but still found most of the shots satisfying. The first 4 or 5 games I sucked big time but started to click after that. Averaged around 100 mil per game. Had one 400 mil game and got Raptor Tri-ball champ but no high score. Last game was my best and got high score #4 with 448 mil.
I'm going to go back and play it today and have a few questions. What area should I attack/shoot for first? Can multiballs be stacked? And during multiballs, after hitting the jackpots and super jackpots do you have to clear the chaos letters? And is the shot right of the truck and left of the ramp doable? The only way I hit the target was from the bumpers or was it designed that way?
Thanks guys. Super jealous of you owners Great game!
I get the biggest kick out of clearing paddocks - everything else just happens while I’m focusing on that. Just the coding on paddocks alone is brilliant.
To start a paddock, you hit the solid white shots until you spell “map” on the back board. (For the first paddock 2 of the 3 shots will already be lit so you only need one white shot). Once Map is lit, the left ramp white insert will flash - hit that to start the paddock. The ball will be trapped at the up post near the left flipper (also brilliant design).
When the mode starts your goal is to rescue as many staff as possible/necessary and then trap and capture the dinosaur. This is easy at first but gets harder as you advance through the paddocks.
To rescue a staff member, hit the orange lit “rescue”?? shots. After you’ve rescued enough, the yellow stand ups behind the truck will light - hit one or both of those to set a trap which is a yellow lit shot. Hit that shot to capture the dinosaur.
The whole time you’re trying to rescue the staff, the dinosaur is roaming the paddocks- it is represented by the green shot and it moves shot to shot. If it gets to a staff member, you lose that staff. You can slow the dinosaur down with a shot to the green lit shot.
When you complete the paddock you move forward on the map - you can change the direction you go on the map by hitting the Jeep newton ball. The outer paddocks are easier dinosaurs, but not worth as much.
Sounds complicated but it’s really intuitive and addictive. Very clever coding.
Quoted from Gotfrogs:
I love how Stern keeps releasing new code for this game but I also hate taking off the backglass to complete the update. I am always scared that I might drop or break it. To prevent having to take it off for an update, I just installed a USB extension cable that will allow me to complete an update without removing the backglass. Here is the 90 degree USB cable that I used. I think it is a great upgrade/insurance for $8
amazon.com link »[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Or get an even longer one and extend it down to the coin door. Did that with Batman 66 since I was a day 1 buyer and there was a ridiculous amount of code updates.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside