(Topic ID: 248582)

Jurassic Park (Stern 2019) Owners Club. Welcome! To Jurassic park.....

By Scribbles

5 months ago

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Topic index (key posts)

7 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #326 Rules tips and info on some wizard modes Posted by sk8ball (5 months ago)

Post #365 Printable Instruction cards for the pin Posted by PinballZach (5 months ago)

Post #366 The first Full Unboxing Video Posted by ZMeny (5 months ago)

Post #425 Feature Matrix of Pro vs Premium vs LE Posted by Scribbles (5 months ago)

Post #468 How to qualify control room modes Posted by jonesjb (5 months ago)

Post #2298 Keith Elwin explains JP rules Posted by MRG (3 months ago)

Post #3040 Raptor target not registering or "ghost" registering, possible fix Posted by Jesder (54 days ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#2553 81 days ago

Played the Pro model at the Portland Retro Gaming Expo and was absolutely blown away with this game. Hoping to order a table after the holiday season (And the PF issues hopefully settle), but picked up what will be a fun topper in the meantime


#2562 80 days ago

I am weak...

I couldn't wait until after the holidays and just ordered a JP3 Pro which should be delivered on Monday.

#2567 80 days ago
Quoted from Multiballmaniac1:

Good luck. From what I heard today is that stern no longer doing populated playfield replacements.

I asked about the pooling/chipping issues. The table is a recent manufacture date and is supposed to have the newer artwork spacing changes and the different clear coat. Hopefully there's no major problems and I can just enjoy the new table...

Quoted from Jon9508:

They wouldnt send me one out . I just got a blank one. But at least I got a new playfield. Going to be a pain moving everything over though.

Wow, they didn't contract someone to do the swap for you?

#2618 79 days ago
Quoted from Krh13:

I am about to order a JP pro as our first NIB and I am looking for peoples opinions regarding setting the machine up. I am very much a rookie with working on pinball machines and wonder on how to set up the machine. Should I go with a local distributor and have the machine delivered and set up by them or pick it up and set it up ourselves?

Tables are heavy, plus another 20-40 pounds for the boxing/crating; the Stern JP flyer says 280 pounds boxed and 250 unboxed. Unless you have a forklift or a hand truck plus ramps to get it out of the back of your vehicle, that's going to really suck to dead-lift to the ground. If you can get a reasonable price on at least delivery, I'd say it's likely worth it to avoid loading/unloading hassle if you aren't equipped for it already.

Quoted from Krh13:

I have set up some used machines and have watched unboxing videos but am worried about problems out of the box. I would love to have the family there as we un box and set the machine up together but would hate it if it's not playable due to something that's over my head. Is it common to have a few problems NIB and how easy are the adjustments/repairs usually?

You shouldn't have to do much more than standard assembly, inspection, and leveling if anything. The only additional step for a NIB that I know of you may not have done with used machines is wipe the oil off of new pinballs before loading them in the machine.

I would think if there is a major play-prevention issue with the table (i.e. DOA electronics), a shop person is likely going to be just as stuck as you would be unless they happen to have spares. I'm personally opting to pay more for installation because my table is going upstairs and they have the equipment to make that a much easier process.

Call and talk to your shop, find out what delivery and install costs are, and what they can and will help with in the event of unexpected problems. Then you can make an educated decision if it's worth it and/or get some added piece of mind with your new table setup. You're about to spend $6k with them, they should be more than willing to answer a few questions on delivery and install options

#2654 75 days ago

Woohoo! Table arrived today and had a chance to play a few games, it's such an awesome table layout.

Not sure if I need to make some other PF adjustments since I'm only getting about 1/5 plunger shots through the half-pipe, plus I'm having a really difficult time getting the ball up the T-Rex/left ramp. Most of my shots just seem to rattle left to right just past the flap and roll back out. I'm not the greatest by any stretch, but yikes it seems way tougher to hit that left ramp than it was when I played it at PRGE.

#2671 75 days ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

I've found this game to be extremely sensitive to play field angle as well as left to right angle... Also playfield angles very throughout the top in the bottom so I would take the average and always go conservatively and lean towards the lower...6.5 is the sweet spot
As soon as I did this I started making all my shots and the game actually sped up seems to play like I've seen in the videos...

Prior to leveling, slope was around 7.8 degrees and now it's about 6.7; no difference on me hitting ramps or the launch half-pipe bricking. Left to right was leaning to the right 0.2 degrees and is now dead on 0.0 degrees. All measurements were taken off of the PF surface at the base of the ramps and at the flippers.

I still have the stock blacks on the flippers which might also be a factor since the PRGE tables all had reds and that's more what I'm used to on my other tables. My pinball skills aren't good enough to easily compensate for the difference

Quoted from Rob_G:

I have my premium at 6.9 degrees and that seems about right. The half pipe is very consistent with 100% manual plunges and about 90% auto launches.

The auto-launcher fairs better than me with the plunger getting up the half-pipe. I noticed when there is a bricking issue, the ball is traveling more on the left side of the shooting lane. I was trying to find the post, someone mentioned backing off the lower left launch ramp screw and slightly propping up that side with a washer/grommet to better guide the ball to the middle of the lane. If there isn't an obvious plunger alignment problem I might try that next to see if it helps.

#2678 74 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

So I'm hearing that the new JP's are coming with thinner clear and it's good? What do you guys think about this?

My Pro table arrived yesterday, no pooling that I can find. I can feel a very slight ridge around the edge of inserts. No dimpling, but my table is only a day old with ~20 plays.

#2685 74 days ago
Quoted from Scribbles:

I was wondering if the thickness of the clear was perhaps the culprit in all the pooling issues. The 2 older sterns I've owned didn't have nearly as thick a layer of clear on them. Even my GoTG from 2017 is thin compared to JP. Perhaps someone just got a little overzealous with the application, and hence the pooling. Where did you hear that newer machines might be shipping with less clear?? That's interesting.

Here's some pics of my new Pro's PF I took this morning:

Upper flipper post
Raptor cage right posts

#2711 72 days ago
Quoted from Breger1:

I do start at beginning and play all paddocks, but it's not letting me do spinosaurus? I'm guessing I don't have the truck facing the correct direction before beginning the spinosaurus paddock

The paddock mode you start depends on the direction the truck is facing when you hit the left ramp after lighting M-A-P. You can only get to the Spinosaurus paddock by going right from the Stegosaurus paddock or left from the Compsognathus paddock.

Quoted from Breger1:

...then I reach visitor center and can't go back and play it?

You have to complete Spinosaurus before you reach the Pteranodon or Velociraptor paddocks.

Quoted from Breger1:

What do you mean by long road? I thought you had to progress through paddocks from the start

You can get to the Visitor Center completing as few as five paddocks/modes by taking all left turns or all right turns up the map, or up to eight if you alternate left and right turns and complete some or all of the super predator paddocks (Dilophosaurus (Spitter), Tyrannosaurus Rex, Spinosaurus) up the middle.

#2760 69 days ago
Quoted from the_belgian:

Are there premiums with playfieldproblems or is this a problem of the past now? I want to buy one thx

The playfield clear coat pooling/chipping seems be an issue on earlier runs. Recent new posts show a thinner coating and no issues, but YMMV...

#2777 68 days ago

My failed idea for a topper. Turned out to be too top heavy with nudging, will likely end up putting this on a shelf just above the backbox instead.

IMG_20191117_124508 (resized).jpg

#2784 67 days ago

I don't think I could pull off this again if I tried...

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#2787 67 days ago
Quoted from J85M:

If Stern’s official topper is anything like that (it must be the gates right?) it would be a must buy!

The boxed Lego set fits the table theme really well even though it's "Jurassic World", I'm bummed it has to go on a shelf above the table instead. Unfortunately the T-Rex has weak ankles, both it and the gate were swaying a lot when testing. I don't think gluing it would have helped much, either. The last thing I wanted is the legs to snap on a forward nudge and the whole thing come down through the cabinet glass.

#2810 65 days ago

Feel like I had to do something since it doesn't move

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#2920 60 days ago
Quoted from SheriffBarclay:

So i know everyone here has been routinely getting to visitor center before 0.95 and putting up 900m on ball 1 and stuff..
I barely make it through 3 paddocks. My GC is 300m. I have the outlane posts in the default middle position and haven't changed any EB settings.

I'm right there with you, but learning more and getting better.

#2928 60 days ago
Quoted from Scribbles:

It WILL come to you at some point. Just keep playing, and get better and better at feeling the shots. I'm also learning about nudging very quickly thanks to JP. Lol

It feels like there are some crazy physics going on at times. A good bounce off of the top of the right slingshot almost always beelines into the left outlane. I've also had quite a few balls that started down the inner lanes and must be spinning enough to walk back up the half to full ball width and take the outlane path instead. I switched to white rubbers and it somehow seems to be worse than the stock blacks that came with the table.

Quoted from marksf123:

I read the rules and now try to put some thought into the shots and now I am really bad. I was better before when i was just shooting at anything - frustrating. I am much better at games that favor the right flipper but this game has the "o" and the "s". I struggle with those.

What's helping me learn better aim is looking at the ball's position on the flipper longer, and waiting until after it's left the flipper before looking to see where it went. I'm also trying to learn what I can backhand with a high consistency, like the raptor pit entrance from the left flipper, and the right set trap target from the right flipper. The right loop and Helipad are tough shots though, I agree.

#2931 60 days ago
Quoted from JediMcMuffin:

What do you mean by "dropped my outlane posts all the way down". Are they moveable??!

Yep, this is the left outlane post, note the hole on each side:

The lower hole (Left in picture) will make an outlane drain easier to avoid

#2934 60 days ago
Quoted from spidey:

Here's a pro tip. You don't have to adjust your upper flipper alignment to make the helipad shot. Just press the right flipper button to raise the flipper while you shoot it with your left flipper. This is like in TZ, which has an upper right flipper shot that requires raising the upper left flipper.

I don't see this being quite the same as the TZ camera shot; the post in front of the flipper prevents this. Even if you do end up banking the ball off the underside of the upper right flipper, does it always keep enough momentum to still make it up the half-pipe?

That, and if you are hitting the raised flipper you actually made the right orbit shot and missed the Helipad. Wouldn't you be better of just letting it go through the right orbit to recover and try again?

#2940 59 days ago
Quoted from shane63026:

I have not read all through the posts so if someone has already asked I'm sorry! What game is better TZ or the premium Jurassic park. I'm thinking of letting my TZ go and buying one. I'm out of room so 1 has to go.

Way too subjective to answer. TZ is one of the greats; I'd hate to see someone let it go simply due to space as opposed to folding it up and parking it for a while. As awesome as JP is, you liked TZ enough to buy and maintain it and may kick yourself later for letting it go.

#3057 53 days ago

Another update coming this month, per Stern of the Union Address news:

"Jurassic Park – For all Jurassic Park owners, please make sure you have updated your game to the most current code version (v0.95.0). This code contains multiple new wizard modes, bug fixes, enhancements and additional polish. Be on the lookout for a new code update later this month."

#3063 53 days ago

So the multiball+smart missile issue impacts Pros as well with the 0.95.0 version. Just had the game lock up and reset during T-rex multiball.

#3124 49 days ago
Quoted from trk12fire:

However, at the end of one game the volume went up super loud and crackled for 5 seconds. It only did it once out of the ten games I played. Hopefully the issue doesn't come back.

Turn off the replay noise.

#3125 49 days ago

Anyone else have a problem with applying the .96 code? The update finished installing and I got to the power cycle screen. I turned the table off, pulled the USB out and close everything up, and now nothing happens when I turn the machine on...

Edit: Apparently turning it off for a third time and opening the coin door before turning it on again was the trick.

#3144 48 days ago
Quoted from trk12fire:

Is it caused by the new code? I was thinking of trying to reload the code

Nope, I had it happen to me on 0.91.0. Makes a terrible loud screech/garbled noise and then goes back to normal. I happen to be looking at the screen at the start of the screech and saw the replay animation. Sent a comment in on the issue, Chas just told me I can turn the knocker sound off in the menu. Thinking maybe I wasn't clear enough.

The museum madness insert not lighting up in the attract mode radar sweep animation bugs me too. Can't unsee it now.

#3149 48 days ago
Quoted from trk12fire:

This might fix the problem, but then I'm missing my Stern replay chirp when someone wins a game. Since the game is on location, it's even more important to have it on. It used to work, not sure what happened.

It works most of the time, I think this issue is tied to a end-of-ball earned replay based on my limited experience and what others have described. It was after a right outlane drain when it happened to me, I can't remember if it was the end of a game or not. I remember the table lights being dark, hearing the screech and seeing the Dilophosaurus animation. My table is home use so I normally keep the game at a volume of 4. It scared the crap out of me when it happened since it shot up to about 15 for the screech replay screen, then back down again.

This only happened to me once and never again since I turned off the kicker sound. The programmer in me is curious to see how the SPIKE2 audio scripting works. Maybe the Dilophosaurus spitting sound during the replay animation combines with the "beep kicker" sound on a single track which gets over-processed with a temporary kicker volume increase. The music track seemed ok in the audio background, just temporarily louder like everything else.

#3151 48 days ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

I already tried adjusting the switches, but it's hard to tell when they're right when it works all the time in test. Anybody find anything else about these?

It sounds like you need to take a look at the optos, not the switches. Air balls going by at higher speeds may not block enough of the opto signal and the loops don't register.

There's a few posts in the Premium/LE thread on this issue. Have you seen or tried either the tape strip methodof blocking the lower part of the metal guide openings or shimming the optos higher
on the mounting brackets with washers?

#3154 48 days ago
Quoted from Its_me_aj:

Has anyone received their replacement play fields yet?

I think some have, may want to read through the main PF issue related thread:


1 week later
#3193 39 days ago

Anyone else seeing cracking in some of the PF inserts?

#3198 39 days ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

my LE has crazing yes

TIL this insert cracking has an official term...

Quoted from heyitsjoebob:

What do you mean? Can you share a pic?

Not a good one at present, but I can take a picture after I get home from work. It is crazing, and seems to be on a few inserts. I have a feeling this isn't something Stern will be willing to address.

#3220 39 days ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

Yes I don't worry or care about that. Someone asked for pics because they were concerned about insert "cracking". Pretty sure they meant the crazing we see. It's pretty common.

It was me that brought up the question initially. It is crazing, and some of my inserts look just like what you
posted. I'm still learning these sorts of details as I'm getting deeper into the hobby and didn't know crazing is somewhat normal.

JP is my first NIB table, and with the other reported JP playfield issues combined with not seeing this on my other two tables, I was concerned this was a bigger issue than it really is. I'm a player, not a collector, I'm just doing my best to take care of my pins and learning as I go...

1 week later
#3322 31 days ago
Quoted from Saucerboy:

Here is the sticker I got with my game.., is it for something? Included manual for size reference.

Nothing on the game, it's just a freebie Stern included. There should also have been a ziptop bag with a few replacement stickers for the stand-up targets, for the Pro model a second Raptor pen plastic, and a few keychain fobs that I used for the coin door and backglass keys.

#3356 30 days ago
Quoted from iceman44:

Museum mayhem? No idea how to get there

Clear all of the T-Rex modes

Quoted from Scribbles:

Visitors center is started once you've done all of the T rex event modes.

Clearing Paddocks gets you to Visitor Center. T-Rex clears open Museum Mayhem.

1 week later
#3439 24 days ago
Quoted from flipper73:

i have two questions according to the map of the stern homepage i have attached:
1. why are there 2 visitor centers shown? i thought where the „mission“ starts there is the main gate.

Mistake, the bottom "Visitor Center" should be "Main Gate"

Quoted from flipper73:

2. why have the locations (points) of the t-rex and the spinosaurus a bigger size than the other dino locations (like spitter, gallimimus, etc.)

Probably because of the difficulty level, and the additional capture bonus you get above and beyond the Jurassic Perk. T-Rex gives an extra ball, and Spino
starts King of the Island.

#3492 17 days ago
Quoted from woody76:

yep, there are a couple things that need some tightening up

Care to be more specific? Haven't had a chance to play .97 yet to see for myself, nor can I make it to the post-Visitor Center game where more of the recent changes exist.

#3554 14 days ago
Quoted from Dantesmark:

Can u shoot a pic of where u put the washer?

Right here:

IMG_20200112_090606 (resized).jpg
#3617 9 days ago
Quoted from SheriffBarclay:

I can't remember where it was before, but it looks like my newton ball/captive ball is about to lift off through the glass, Willy Wonka elevator style...
Is it supposed to be this high? Surely not. About to lift the playfield, I assume it's a screw underneath.[quoted image]

No, it should be just about flush with the PF, and level with the ball on the truck assembly.

#3619 8 days ago
Quoted from PunishersLEMC:

What about flipper button cabinet protectors - mylar or rails?

Stern has officially licensed rails as an option:


Quoted from PunishersLEMC:

When I use auto plunger it goes up scoop and back and goes onto right flipper - a soft plunge causes it to go onto PF - is this correct? I dont see a way for it to go around orbit

A full pull on the plunger and the auto-launch should get the ball up the halfpipe and back down on the helicopter rails to the right flipper. Intentional short plunges should come out of the helipad lane to the flippers.

Things to check and do:

  • Make sure the table is level left to right, JP is sensitive to proper leveling and pitch. The manual says the table should be at a six and a half degree pitch, Keith Elwin recommends seven.
  • Some plungers have needed alignment to make sure it is properly centered on the ball in the shooter lane trough
  • Highly recommended to go into the adjustments menu and lower the shooting lane solenoid (Not auto-launch) power to the lowest possible setting to help reduce lane wear.
  • If auto-launch and full-strength plunger pulls do not go up the halfpipe 90% or more of the time, it is very common for the left fork of the metal shooter lane ramp to need propping up with washers or other support underneath. I used washers on mine, putting the left fork's screw through the middle of the washers to help hold them in place. Be sure that the top of the left fork is not propped up above the playfield surface to avoid damaging pinballs. When it's needed, raising the left metal fork helps auto and full-strength ball launches go all the way up the halfpipe significantly more reliably.
  • The plunger should have an orange spring, some tables (Mine included) shipped with a green spring. The spring in my table is too weak to get the ball up the halfpipe when letting go of the plunger after holding the plunger fully extended. I have to do more of a "lawnmower start" pull, or use the auto-launch, in conjunction with the ramp adjustment above to get the ball up the halfpipe to the ramp
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