Quoted from Sinestro:

Seems to be a lot for me. Very interactive, unlike some titles. T-REX chase is a good example....you feel him walking at different speeds.

Quoted from Sinestro:

Was getting rejected shots on the T-REX ramp, even when they were perfect going up. Also loud and clanking shots from the upper flipper to the Raptor Tower ramp. Turned down the power settings on all 3 flippers, and the shots are much nicer now...almost butter smooth. I set mine to 220. Your machine may be slightly different, but I think the stock 255 is too strong for JP.

Quoted from fooflighter:

Changed mine on StarWars to about 135 deg, while the screw doesn't have a indent on the motor shaft, tightening down the allen wrench screw still allows for straight travel for the flyweight during rotation. I found 180 to be almost non existent shake...and 90 was still too much. Which Stern could code some intensity settings into the motors rather than just duration/frequency

Quoted from libtech:

Buy one of these and make your own https://www.dinosaurcreations.com/collections/faux-amber/products/crane-fly-amber-egg

Quoted from frankmac:

The Shaker integration is fantastic on the Pre/LE .
If you have a pro without a shaker motor go get one!!! Must have.

Quoted from frankmac:

Go Stern.. You will love it. Make sure you are on maximal in the setting!

Quoted from Da-Shaker:

I used Super Bands

Quoted from J-Freeze:

I like titan for regular rubbers but the post sleeves don't hold up very well.
Get cliffy post sleeves, and titan rings.
https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=common/home
https://www.passionforpinball.com/colorsleeves.htm

Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

If you remove the shaker cover, there is an offset weight on both sides of the motor. There are little Allen screws that you can loosen and adjust the position of the weight. Only need to adjust one side relative to the other. If they're both in the same position (on both sides of motor) you will get the maximum shake. I had to tame my ST one down because it was rattling the glass so much. I could try installing anti-rattle tape I guess. It worked in my ACNC.[quoted image]

Quoted from zaphX:

It’s a filter into a different connector on the same board you plugged in the shaker harness to. Should be in the instructions, if not I’ll take a pic.

Quoted from Budman:

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Quoted from mbrave77:

i just installed the shooter knob and raptor kit over the weekend. Shooter knob may be the best one Ive ever seen and the raptor pit really adds a nice touch. Along with shaker and invisiglass I think im done! Really loving the game despite not being able to get past 275m so far. Ive had avengers premium since launch and this for a few weeks now. I think JP is the better Elwin game. It just shoots so damn well and has a ton to do. Really love this game.

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Classic Game Rooms had some very recently. I would try them.

Quoted from yzfguy:

I told ya... Just drill out the prop and grind down the base!

Quoted from 2manyhobbies:

Operation pinball has new Pros in stock, I highly recommend them! free fast shipping and of course no tax, that is who I got my premium from last month. They sent it with in 3 business days. But the premium right now is a tough to find used or NIB. Good luck!

Quoted from Jimmyhonda:

It’s very strange. It spins freely and is not binding. It just wants to rest at like a 25 degree angle and it should be like a 5 degree angle. I can’t figure out what’s up with it.

Quoted from RetroGamerJP:

EDIT - I managed to find a few copters on Amazon so if you are interested in getting one of these pre-modded and ready to drop into your machine, send me a PM.
Alternate process for Helicopter mod install (no grinding or sanding)
I got my helicopter in over the weekend and decided to install today. Many thanks to the brave souls before me who originally figured this out and shared with all of us... I wanted to see if I could find a way to install without having to grind away the bottom or deform the top in order for it to fit. Good news is, it can be done quite easily, and without having to take apart the copter. (unless you are trying to also do the cockpit light mod.
Basically with a pair of large needle-nose pliers, I grabbed the original rotor and with a couple of rocks back and forth, you can snap it off leaving a perfect guide hole. I also use the same pliers to snap off the lander gears. The remaining part of the landing gears may fall into the body of copter but they will come out later when you drill the larger holes.
Then on my drill press I used a 5/32" bit to go through the guide hole at top and straight down to create guide hole in bottom. Next, using a stepper bit on drill press I make a 1/2" hole through bottom plastic, this is the size of the shaft in the game you will be sliding copter over.
The trick to this method is to go with a larger hole on the top. Using the same stepper bit, I drill out top hole to a 5/8" hole, this allows for the washers and bearing to sit inside of the copter (instead of above it) and gives us the clearance needed without having to grind off the bottom of the copter.
You can see in the final pictures that the copter sits in perfectly with just enough clearance for the blades to spin and all without grinding away any material. You don't need to do anything to secure the copter, it naturally sits in the perfect spot and doesn't move at all. I also decided to remove the remaining hex posts (since they were only there to hold original helicopter plastic) and just put 6-32 nuts in place to clean that area up. I also did as others have done and placed a small dab of hot glue on the rear propeller to hold it in the perfect position to make sure the main rotor misses it during rotation.
Everything spins and functions as it should and it truly looks like it could have come from the factory this way.
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Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Put your game at 6.5. If you're a newer played, those shots are intentionally hard to find. Spend some more time on the game, and if you still can't make them, consider adjusting the angle of the flipper. I remember when I started out, I was constantly adjusting everything thinking it was the game and not me. Then I realized it was me
I'm at a point now where I can tell the difference, so my advice to you, is play the game more and see how you feel in a couple of weeks.

Quoted from evh347:

Apple App Store: https://apps.apple.com/us/app/pinguy/id782973821
Never mind....I see you’re an Android user.

Quoted from Green-Machine:

One is a short plunge to a shot to the control room. Accidentally figured that one out

Quoted from Manny65:

Congrats!
That list of things to do looks good, probably the only thing I'd add would be to check the ball doesn't catch the screw heads used on the Tower and Heli ramp flaps

Quoted from NPO:

This game went from my biggest "rage quitter" to regularly getting 150M minimum scores. How I did it...?
1. Bring the posts as far in as possible. As already discussed, game is a drain monster, especially the right outlane.
2. Get the cliffy carbon fiber ramp entrances. Don't care what anyone says, the ball gets up the inverted ramps a LOT more than with any configuration/types of screws.
3. Remove the tilt bob. Look, I'm not going to ANY major pinball tourneys anytime soon. Who gives a rat ass about the tilt bob. Make the game fun for YOU. If all you get is drains left ad right, the most fun theme in the world won't matter.
4. Nudging. Man, when that ball doesn't make the inverted tower ramp or the left loop around the T-Rex ramp, you better know the physics of the ball and its anticipated trajectory cause it IS headed near that outlane OR off the top right flipper and dangerously close to STDM. Nudging is so key on this game. I think Keith intentionally designs his games to where if you know how to nudge, it seriously keep a game alive.
I used to get SO angry after a bad game. Three balls not lasting more than 25M in some cases. Brick. Brick. Brick. Brick. Brick. But once I completed the steps above AND got used to hitting both ramps with decent consistency, the game goes from a cage to a full on park. A...Jurassic Park if you will!

Quoted from Markharris2000:

Cliffy makes a set of carbon fiber ramps which stick to the surface.

Quoted from Manny65:

The pops target (same target to start Chaos MB) - it's a tight shot!

Quoted from Manny65:

Yes - the Amber/Pops standup target. The target insert flashes yellow for Amber, blue for Smart Missile and red for Chaos MB.
Smart Missile is only lit (left inlane) if the truck is facing to the left, otherwise Super Spinner (right inlane) will be lit.

Quoted from TroyS:

OK let me reel you guys back into our amazing thread.
Are there any mods you guys wish someone would make or make again?

Quoted from Saddath:

I really like the helipad sign as that shot is hard to spot for new players and it's consistent with the theme and animations.
But the best mod is the pteradon.
Nobody ever guessed that it's not original.
That'

I got this one as a Backglass. I love it.

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Amazon. Search in this thread.

Quoted from RussMyers:

amazon.com link »

Quoted from purbeast:

Thanks Mr_Tantrum I'm going to order it from Amazon and then I searched for piano wire and saw this 4 pack of 12" "music wire" that seems to be same thickness as piano wire.
amazon.com link »

Quoted from NoSkills:

Thanks. I think a lot of people absolutely love the trex, I always turn it on for guests and they think it’s amazing but it doesn’t really add anything for me anymore so I turn it off when I’m alone

Quoted from darkryder:

I bought the JP topper from another Pinsider and it arrived in perfect condition. It looks amazing and I'm very happy with it.
Yes, I'm eagerly awaiting the official Godzilla (and Rush) toppers...is there an official waiting list to get added to somewhere?

Quoted from BallyKISS1978:

Tilt topper is still the best and cost me $245 shipped.
[quoted image]

Quoted from Joker19:

Here is what I would recommend. Easy, new speaker and get some light kit:
https://www.pinballlife.com/rgb-led-round-speaker-upgrade-and-light-kit-for-most-stern-spike-2-pro-premium-machines.html

Quoted from John_C:

If you're not interested in a light kit and are just wanting to upgrade the speakers / improve sound, these Kicker speakers work great. I have them in both my Jurassic Park and Godzilla.
amazon.com link »

Quoted from prentice:

For 4” backbox speakers no additional stuff required. Ideally you solder it in, but technically you could even crimp it in with the connectors that come with the Kickers.
I put together a cheat sheet here:
http://bit.ly/sternaudio

Quoted from Joker19:

For 99$ you get 5.25 and light kit and all brackets... Not sure that you can beat that.
If you go the 4inch route and do it a bit yourself, sure.
All depends on how comfortable you are.
My 2 cent.

Quoted from trueno92:

Exactly, usually failed ramp or orbits have landed the ball in the drain pretty easily in most games i have owned and played but i find the pf layout quite intentional in that there are little obstructions to ensure the ball doesn't just fall into an outlane on its way down the pf racing down a ramp.
This upper post flipper alignment is a game changer to me esp on multiball. Usually ill lose track of whats going on up at that flipper and then a few balls are just dumping down the center instead of crossing up the center. Did a couple hrs of play testing and even on fast orbits, the ball will arc across to the left sling.

Quoted from trueno92:

Upper flipper post, align the flipper bat as in my picture.
The face of the bat is straight with the ball guide that feeds it. The post should offset it to the left just a bit as per the marker dimple on the pf
[quoted image]

Quoted from trueno92:

What do you not like about godzilla?