(Topic ID: 248582)

Jurassic Park (Stern 2019 & 30th) Owners Club. Welcome! To Jurassic park.....

By CoolCatPinball

4 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

17 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #326 Rules tips and info on some wizard modes Posted by sk8ball (4 years ago)

Post #365 Printable Instruction cards for the pin Posted by PinballZach (4 years ago)

Post #366 The first Full Unboxing Video Posted by ZMeny (4 years ago)

Post #425 Feature Matrix of Pro vs Premium vs LE Posted by CoolCatPinball (4 years ago)

Post #468 How to qualify control room modes Posted by jonesjb (4 years ago)

Post #2298 Keith Elwin explains JP rules Posted by MRG (4 years ago)

Post #3040 Raptor target not registering or "ghost" registering, possible fix Posted by Jesder (4 years ago)

Post #5270 make the jeep work well Posted by CoolCatPinball (3 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider beegee6533.
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#7111 3 years ago

Hello everyone, I'm a newbie owner(played machines for years though) and I've owned my Stern NIB JP premium for about 3 months and love it. It's my 3rd pinball machine. However, I'm having issues with flippers. When it arrived there always seemed to be unsmooth feel often, pushing the flipper button itself. As if it was getting friction/resistance as the button pressed in to its housing(kind of like a notch that was resisting the push and then would clear the resistance suddenly.) I more or less got used to it and now it's less pronounced. However, now the left flipper is not responding at all to subtle "micro-flips" for tap or flick passes along with post passes(won't respond at all to post pass attempts from the left flipper all of a sudden). It used to perform these functions perfectly until the last few days. The flipper is almost binary now: full flip or nothing at all. I have the flipper power set to full in the settings. I've read about new Sterns having terrible coil stops and coil sleeves. Is this maybe the issue? I've ordered new ones from pinballife.com. I'm also thinking it needs new plastic buttons just to be safe. As I investigate further I'm discovering other possibilities like the EOS switches(still unclear if that's the switch the plastic flipper button connects to or something on the playfield near the flipper coil?) Any insight or advice would be greatly appreciated!

#7113 3 years ago
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:

Coil stops and EOS switches will not affect the mechanical movement of your flipper buttons. It sounds like something is catching or binding in the button itself. They're super easy to remove. If it were me, I'd start by removing the button and inspecting it closely. Theres a large threaded nut inside the cabinet that will release the button.

Thx for the info! Yes, it could be just the button itself. Any chance the leaf switch/blades the button connects to could also be the issue? If I try to describe the problem, it's like I used to be able quickly or lightly press the button and it would respond well with micro-flips even from a position of cradling(button pressed in fully). Now if I'm cradling and try to post pass, etc. it doesn't respond at all to my subtle button pushes. It requires a full release of the button to respond in any way. Also, I used to like to control the ball in the left flipper at the start of a paddock. When The metal post comes out of the playfield to trap the ball in the left inlane while the paddock animation runs, I would hold my flipper up fully and the when the post releases and the ball comes out I could slightly "micro flip" to control and catch the ball in that left flipper to line up a shot to the "A" ramp for example. It's just that kind of thing. The subtlety in flipping is now gone.

#7115 3 years ago
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:

Leaf switches might need a little adjusting, but, they dont actually connect to the button at all. They stick up behind the button and get pushed. So, if theres a sticky feeling to the button, its probably the button itself. If the button feels normal, but the subtlety in your flips are gone, yes, perhaps a leaf adjustment? I dont think I've ever said button this many times in such a short span

Hahaha! button button button button...

Thx again

#7238 3 years ago
Quoted from Flipstream:

Naptha for cleaning playfields and rubber, Windex or your favorite glass cleaner for the glass and plastics, and a 100% Carnauba wax with no solvents.

What do you recommend for cleaning the steel ramps? Is Novus 1 ok? Will naphtha work on the stainless steel without harming?

Thx!

#7239 3 years ago
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:

There is a tiny casting seam on new stern flipper buttons which drove me crazy, like you described.
Grind it down with a smooth sand paper, easy fix!
For faster grinding you can attatch the button with a double sided 3M tape and turn the button while sanding it .
[quoted image][quoted image]

Thx for the tip! I bought some replacement buttons from pinball life. I'm assuming they will work(even with the staged right side flipping for upper flipper)? I will try sanding the existing buttons though! My NIB Iron Maiden Premium had similar friction on the button press issues. Stern may have a bad 2018/19 run of those here and there.

#7322 3 years ago
Quoted from Metroshica:

Just took order of my JP Pro on Saturday, been loving it! However, got a couple things I'm looking to fix. First, the left ramp seems to not register shots about 5% or so of the time. Seems to register less when the ball is flying fast. I'm having a hard time replicating it as manually triggering the opto with the glass off seems fine. Also, I'm having a big issue with the plunge not making the inverted ramp and feeding to the inlane. It seems like the ball is launching a little bit too high from the shooter lane and just slamming into the flat part of the inverted ramp. Anyone run into either of these and have tips on how to fix them?

I've had my JP premium for 3 months now and the auto launch and manual plunge made the inverted turn to feed the right lane 100% of the time. Now all of a sudden I'm having the same problem. It now only makes it successfully 70%.. It's very frustrating bc it interferes with gameplay(skill shots, T-rex multiball 1st shot set-up, etc.) After searching this forum I tried the washer fix on the left fork of the ramp thing: didn't work(made it worse). I'm pretty frustrated as it seems like this is a real problem with the game and that mech. I hope there is an actual solution.

#7329 3 years ago
Quoted from gorditas:

I suggest taking off the glass, and testing each ball. If you have one or two with a wear imperfection that causes any type of wobble, you will have trouble making the shot. Also, on my own machine, if I don't pull the plunger all the way back, I often don't make the loop. You then need to adjust the auto ball launch to match. Too strong causes rattling rejects, and too soft can't make the loop.

Thx for all of these suggestions. I just wish it would work, lol. It's such a great game but this problem is knocking it down a few notches. I wish there were a solid, agreed upon fix. I guess I'll keep tweaking pitch/leveling, checking balls, adjusting launch power, checking the autolaunch fork teeth alignment, etc etc. My Iron Maiden has similar issues but easier fixes in my experience. It's unfortunate that Stern can'y just "solve" these launch problems bc I love these games.

1 month later
#8355 3 years ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

That one is an easy fix, lift up the rail (remove nut obviously) and prop it up with a rag or something. Flow some water thin super glue and then mask off with painters tape to match the black outline coming from the post, you can skip the super glue, but this will really bond the chipping clear, but be careful and cover any areas not to risk dripping (your screwed if that happens), paint with black model paint acrylic, let dry, brush on some clear to seal. Buff lightly and cover with mylar, insert fiber washer under rail. Will look good as new. Even if your not artistic, the painters tape will help you with the black line, and once you put the rail back down, you'll barely see it.
Another less timely, fix is to black sharpie the line on the bare wood, cover with clear, then mylar, insert washer
The other trouble areas are, under the rail near the raptor tower entry on the left, under the rail under the shooter lane gap before the 180 turn

I have to do some repair to a chip along the raptor tower ramp ball guide on the upper left area of the playfield. I’ve read a number of posts about JP2, Deadpool, and AIQ for these ball guide/playfield chipping and pooling repairs(So frustrating that this is still an issue on NIB games.) Just a few questions to be “clear” -har har- as I begin my repair to the playfield:

- I have the vinyl repair round iron mentioned by Yelobird to apply to any pooling areas. But I assume if it’s already chipped I should not use this 3 second iron method?

- So, for the chipped area I apply/flow a small amount of the water thin super glue(purchased on amazon) BEFORE applying the acrylic paint pen for aesthetic matching to the artwork? I understand this is for helping to bond the clear to the chipped area.

- Then I apply the acrylic pen to match colors to the art and let dry. After this I have the clear coat brush applicator pen you get at automotive stores, and I apply this over the acrylic painted area?

- Fooflighter, you mention buffing this area. What do you recommend for buffing? I assume a fine grade sandpaper? Any clarification on this buffing step would be so appreciated.

-Finally Mylar, and then a washer if necessary under and guide posts, etc to lift off the playfield I assume.

Thx for any additional advice/clarification! Wish me luck on this unfortunate repair!

#8386 3 years ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

I used novus 2, very lightly, in addition, i used a small buffing wheel on a dremel (NOT a felt pad but the small cotton buffing attachment) using small passes with novus 2 and a very very light pressure and a medium speed...this shined these areas up very nicely with minimal elbow grease. You can use a microfiber with novus but I've found novus 2 will dull the clear by hand more than a mechanical advantage of a buffing wheel, in this case a dremel tool. If you're nervous soing this, then just use a microfibe and novus followed by a very light wax and then mylar

Thx so much for your response! I happen to have a Dremel tool so all good there. Did my other steps in that post seem correct about applying the water thin glue before the acrylic paint pen, etc.? I think I have a plan of attack to repair that chip and keep it from getting any worse. Thx again for your advice and help on this!

#8390 3 years ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

Sure thing...again with the glue the caution is with the prep, I would use painters tape and cover every area of the playfield with some painters plastic, you don't want that stuff dripping on the playfield. Most of those water thin glues have a small applicator nozzle, you literally just barely touch the surface and it will flow so practice before you actually do it. You may see the glue form a bubble, if this happens, just wait, it may seep into the wood, if not, let it harden, don't press into it or it will smudge and become tacky. you can use a razor blade and shave down the bubble when it hardens.
I would buff the glued area to take down any rough areas also before applying the touchup paint.
Then paint, clear, buff, mylar...
Again, your work depends on your skill level but it can be done to look good as new. Just take your time

Thank you so much for the detailed advice! It’s truly helpful. I’m new to ownership just this year and I have to admit it’s super disappointing for these things to happen on new machines. But, I want to play and enjoy them and this will hopefully be a good mend for a small area that isn’t in plain sight while playing. Thx again!

9 months later
#11562 2 years ago

Hi, I was hoping someone may have some insight on an issue with my JP premium that popped up last night. Mid game, I nudged and the game restarted. Granted, I have restart by left flipper and start button enabled but I don’t think it was that(requires holding it for a few seconds.) All of my high scores and achievements were erased except my GC score. I’ve been playing the game for a year so kind of a bummer. All settings seem to be the same(flipper strength etc.) but only my GC score remains. All others went to default. Any ideas? thx in advance! I’m on 1.03 code(been on it for quite awhile.)

#11564 2 years ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

Not sure about the reset during game play but the HS list resets every xxx games (except GC) unless you changed that setting to OFF or NEVER. Can't remember exactly. IIRC it's in the basic settings (SPI).

Ahh ok! I bet that’s it and the restart thing was a coincidence. Never knew that as I’ve only owned new Sterns for a year now. Now time to go set that to NEVER for my other Sterns, lol. Worked too hard during the lockdown to give up those accolades, hahaha. Thx for the response!

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