that crane fly mod is too cool to be true

I'm in the club too! the machine was build in dec. 2019, bought in germany a week ago.
At first i was a littlebit concerned becaues the machine felt uncommonly for me, but after 30min i was hooked, can't stop playing!!

-Heli-blades got stuck on the metal guide right out of the box. Fixed it carefully in about an hour.
After reassembling the blades they seem to spin too slow and tend to not coming back to the standard position, any idea?

-Clearcoat was deformed too from the metal guides.

-T-Rex opto was covered from its own cable, but working now 100%.

-The flipper buttons seemed to get stuck sometimes, i inspected them and there was a little seam from molding- ground it away, perfekt now.

-I bought an external volume button for spike systems, but i think JP needs a newer one since i do not find the right connection, anyone experienced?

-Anyone knows where i can buy a quiet fan? Its really loud!

-Also the T-Rex is very loud when moving, is this normal?

-The only real problem i can't fix is the Spitter lane. My balls wont go around smooth there about 80%. If you have an idea i would be thankfull!

20200313_152115 (resized).jpg

thanks for taking the time!
There are 3 washers on the heli. I put the one with the bearing at the lowest spot, that worked!
I found the volume controll plug, yay!

I changed the standard post sleeves with superband and it was an airball fest, i swapped them back after 20 seconds play,
because of the potential PF damage.
I dont understand why i didnt read about that in the thread, since i see so much pictures of coloured post sleeves here.
Are there alternative products for those not-bouncy sleeves?

make sure you have enough cooling power on the new fan!

cheers

Exactly 7°, its the increased speed of the ball. It's like setting flipper strength on max, the faster travel speed causes a higher chance of flying balls.
I'm trying the PerfectPlay "thin" ones now.

I have a question on the flipper alignment. Mine are pointing right at the two little alignment holes in the PF.
The thing with JP2 is, that most shots are made with the tip of the flipper. (controll room, pteranodon ramp, O shot, helipad ramp)
Would it make sense to make them droopier, because accuracy decreases on the end of the flippers... Ghostbusters alike.
Of corse trapping would be harder. Anyone tested this?

hmmm ok, so droopy flippers are not a good idea.

I'm still having problems with airballs. Pitch is 7° and its leveled.
Mainly I'm getting airballs because of the slings. If the ball hits the first sling and from there into the second one, it takes off.
I'm using transparent silicon rubbers, they are causing no problems on my Ghostbusters Pin. And the sling power is turned down to 26.
Sometimes balls jump into the metal rails of the t-rex ramp or the helipad ramp.
The worst airballs i get when hitting the "O"shot and the ball returns right to the upper flipper with full speed and I hit it again with the flipper.
On the flippers i use Titan competition rubbers.

Do you have similar experiences? Any ideas? I'm afraid to damage my PF.

New Highscore, 720.000.000 woot, I really enjoy to figure out alle the modes!
And the the best part are the flippers. I feel like i have so much controll because
of the alignment of the inlane/flipper/sling-combo, microflips are awesome!

AAAARRRGH!! 600 games, clearcoat is damaged at the upper flippers post.
The post was never loose, because i always checked it!
What can i do now? I payed over 9.000$ here in the EU.
How much will i loose if i want to resell it?
Build date = Dec. 17. 2019
Will i get a replaced, unpopulated PF?
And what can i do to minimize further damage? airgun, PVC washers?
DAMAGE (resized).jpg

Thank you, posts are tight, rubber size is ok. I will test some more rubbers.

Thanks for the advice. I will wait until I know how Stern and my distributor want to proceed.

this is the advice from Stern beside contacting my ditributor:
----------------------------------
I would suggest asking your distributor for a hard coat kit # 502-6947-00 or you can use a polyurethane to lightly apply over the chip. This will prevent the chip from spreading.
----------------------------------

the hard coat kit is not listed in any shop i searched.

to prevent further damage i used this PETG washer. Worked well for another 200 games:
https://pu-parts.com/klare-petg-unterlegscheibe-3-4-zoll

the post sleeve you see is the perfectplay's "thin" post sleeve. Its similar to the sterns hard one, but in different colors and 1mm smaller.
that should cause less black dirt on the PF and maybe some shots are slightly easier now

20200322_094933 (resized).jpg

Anyone has flickering LEDs? This began after some days of play. Its the four LEDs under the inlane guides, left and right.
I cant tell what it is, the lights brightness seems to change when pushing against the LED itself, and its flickering hard when using a flipper. (vibration?)
And now the weird part, it slightly flickers when i push the flipper button and leave it in the up position.
Swaping LEDs does not help. And somehow the voltage seems to affect them too (hold flipper test).
I have had two mods installed, T-Rex ramp lights and a shaker. Removing them did not help.
I have the same problem with my Ghostbusters now and then.

-edit-

my socket just broke

The screws of the T-Rex ramps posts, holding that airball protector always come loose.
Yesterday, they unscrewed! themself, falling on the PF.

I read about using the blue locktite, but those are screws i dont want to glue because i change rubbers from the posts etc.
Is there another solution and do your screws also get loose?

I'm iterested in this too. I see this double loop working on most streams, but not on my pin.
You just can fine adjust this. Reference should be the post. If you ball comes down the O lane, the post should prevent a center drain.
So you dont have much to play with. There is also a small hole next to the post for flipper adjustment, but that point cant be right imo.

EDIT, just found that on the other thread:

I have a question, i changed the balls from day one, since the stern ones are not high gloss.
Now i read that on pins where magnets are used, i should use low magnetic balls. I didn't notice any problems so far.
Should i swap them?

Today i found two more clear coat chippings at the guide of the left orbit and the tower shot...
Would it be so hard for stern to put a washer there? Already send the photos to my distributor.
Im not amused.

so you dont use the standard factory flipper strength? I checked it in the settings, and those are already set on different strengths (255/235), so i trusted those. i set the game on 7°, is it worth to play around with those factors? My main problem is the Helipad ramp, since its so much needed when getting deeper into the game, sometimes i need 6 tries.
I have the game now for 2 weeks and i feel like im not making any more progress. pteranodon paddock at best, no visitor center for me.
i have days, i can shoot combos like crazy and the next day i'm even not hitting the t-trex ramp most of the time i only get one extraball from 6 rescues, i have to learn the code better too, but it seems to be hard to get more extraballs. (fossils, t-rex, smart missile)

i was not able to dial in my loop, so that the O shot feeds O shot again by holding up upper flipper. I read EaglePin's posts about it, but the ball goes down too low, and barely can reach the tip of the upper flipper. the only idea would be to bend the lane guide... that could cause trouble, because i also have to make that shot the other way around.

thanks, flippers are aligned, playfield is perfecty leveled and i'm using titan comp. rubbers and reduced ball hopp by inlane adjusting.
i know that experience with fresh waxing
i'll start with adjusting flipper strengh.

i swaped to transparent rubbers to avoid this black dirt, but somehow JP gets dirty very fast, whats your experience?
do you have a strategy on getting extraballs?

anyone tried to make the machine quieter with foam inside of the cabinet? the flippers are really loud on this one.

OMG, just reduced every flipper strength to 235. it made all the difference and reduced airballs alot.
maybe this would have prevented some clear coat chipping too...

the flipper strength difference changes the S shot at the flipper maybe about 0.5- 1cm. Before, i have had to wait until the straight part of the rubber got passed by the ball and then shoot with rounded tip edge of the flipper. I realize now that this made the shot very hard.

I just gave the S lane at the end a small bend with a plier, now it doesnt bounce to the sling anymore.
you have to remove the ramp and the heli plastics before.

spend more time on it, the shots will feel better after some time (always work on accuracy and recap if you shot too early or late).
very important for me was to set every flipper on 235 strengh. this will make especially the S shot easier!

I wanted to make my own shooter knob with LEDs, because i found this ebay.com link: itm
But it looks way too big, and i have no tools to grind it down. Anyone have other ideas how I could do this?

Exact same on my NIB deadpool pro.

thats interesting, i have so much rattling balls on this ramp and wondered about it... i will try this out with a piece of hard rubber.

EDIT: as i said, i tried it with some hard rubber piece and it does not help. i inspected the rattling and i found it comes from shots hitting the left metal guide on the ramp. this metal piece extends into the ramp shot, behind the left post. it would help to move the ramp (2 screws in the wood) just a tiny bit so the metal isn't getting into the way.

7° is the well known perfect angle. small changes can make a huge difference but always be aware of the placebo, which sometimes can be extreme
the bubble leveler from my experience sucks bad. why they even include those? on same games with same pitch they can be completely off. so they are not even calibrated to 6.5, even if this is not the perfect pitch for every game, so whats the purpose??

so pitch is very important, like left to right leveling and flipper adjustment. Other things often also can be tweaked and make a huge difference. like ball guides from orbits. i always see games where the ball goes right into the slings from the orbit feed. i have had this on GB, DP and TWD and was able to fix those easily with some slight bending or re-screwing... saves a lot of frustration. i love this process of "dialing games in".

Looks great, but where can i get the yellow LEDs like the original?
Anyone knows how to build it and where to plug it in?

if you didn't check the latest production of those rods, they are not looking good from stern.
So i wondered if i could build my own. drill 2 holes and take the GI power or something else for the LEDs.

yeah, but where is that "amber light connection", i think it has its own programed light show?

that would be awesome, the shooter rod is on its way!

nice! i missing the extraball reward on the t-rex?

-----------------

i have a problem with finding little metal pieces on my PF, until now it was more dust like, but look how big that thing is! I also have some bigger cuts and scratches.
i only have one explaination for this, the truck screw. what do you think?
I have to say that im really disapointed with my 9K $ game quality wise. but i love the gameplay.

the clear coat sucks, and how they could prevent PF damage with some washers and rubbers worth less than 5$.
just look what people say about R&M clearcoat, day and night.

IMG_20200518_153940 (resized).jpgIMG_20200518_154259 (resized).jpg

thanks! i'll print that

in my experience there is no single part "metric" in pinball machines. i have had to buy all my tools new.

FYI, i get a new unpopulated PF because i have minor clear coat damage at some places (post, lane guides and apron).
you should not tolerate that, stern has to learn this lesson- fight for it.
If you are accepting this for an 8K game, it wont change in the future.

I have both, and like JP more, but DP is awesome too and im happy i can keep it a little longer.

hahaha watch the insect... thats one of the new stern rods and thats why the seller is selling it, looks like sht.
i laugh because of the description:
This is the impossible to find official Stern Jurassic Park Shooter knob. The shooter knob and rod is crowned with an illuminated egg-shaped amber globe, housing a suspended fossilized mosquito...the key to unlocking the dinosaurs in Jurassic Park. Based on the movie prop, this is possibly the coolest pinball plunger ever made and fits all three Stern Jurassic Park pinball machines: Pro, Premium & LE. This official Jurassic Park shooter knob and rod adds a fun element to your pinball experience from the very first plunge.

angle should be 7.0°

subwoofer connected?

not tapered, and they are destroyed in 2 weeks! sterns original hard rubber tpered are the best.
any other rubbers i tried have extreme fast rebound or will break like the perfectplay ones.

you game should have an angle of 7.0, thats quite important! also level it from left to right.
the metal piece on the left side of the ramp seems to be not attached well, the folding of the piece should wrap the end of the plastic ramp.

asdf (resized).png

That topper is joke, thats just the beginning... just wait for the hidden feature on the TMNT.

Anyone can help me out?
I want to rebuild the stern shooter rods lights, but i dont know where to attach the LEDs.
I will drill two holes and put a white through light kit there with a yellow foil.
I found some images of the original shooter rod kit, but since i know nothing about electricity i dont know how i can rebuild/order that plug, since its not just simple +/-
I am afraid to destroy a board or something with wrong wireing- i dont want to plug it to the GI, this thing has its own lightshow.
I also have a soldering iron if needed.
IMG_20200607_110952 (resized).jpgIMG_20200524_232559 (resized).jpgIMG_20200524_232720 (resized).jpgIMG_20200524_232734 (resized).jpg

yeah sorry, where is the original connection for the shooter rod? and how i can connect two cables from the LEDs there, i guess i need some kind of connector plastic like in the images.

thanks, how do i know which pins i have to use, if i know the right connection. because they all have multiple pins, no simple +/-

from time to time i have had problems with the right pass, but now it works perfectly.

thats factory setting, yes.
imo just turn down the ball eject power to a very low setting, flipper power is ok as it is.

So noone can take a picture of the stern shooter rod connection? so i know where i have to plug it in.

thanks!

PF should be at 7° !!

from time to time i have had the same issue, and imo its not the flipper power.
try a different timing on the flippers when doing post passes, slower/faster.
waxing can change things too, try to just wax the area down there.

haha sorry, english is not my native language, but i get the joke.

I also did some rubber testing. If the game is too hard for you, put back the original hard black post sleeves, they are much less bouncy! And the ball will not go crazy fast SDTM or straight outlane as often.
for the slings i got alot of airballs with superbands and silcon rubbers, went back to original!
outlane rubbers and slingrubbers anything else than original also will make the ball more unpredictable resulting in more drains.
on the flippers i went titans again, love them.

doublepost

i will get a new unpopulated PF for that reason! this is not acceptable!

How long? any idea, because i am waiting too.

thanks for the insight!

Anyone knows a save way to shoot the ESCAPE target? i often get direct right outlane bounces.

Also Kaneda is confused by the bubble levels haha

a smartphone can do that!

for beginners its best to press 3 times at the smart missile, there should be the raptor multiball and if not the EB is right in the same spot.

I'm curious what your avaerage scores and strategies are.
Most of the time I am between 100 and 300 million, sometimes 700+ and my GC was about 1.3 Billion.
Reaching the Visitor Center is very rare for me, but this is where the points are. I only seem to get there with the T-Rex extraball.
Once i got there on ball 1 without a EB

At the first ball i try to get "C" for chaos and to lock a ball. From there i just try to capture dinos and get EB's. Fossiles happens rarely...
Control Room and T-Rex modes make me drain most of the time.

Hey everyone, I finally installed my shooter rod with additional LEDs.
I bought the shoter rod from hookedonpinball.com.
https://www.hookedonpinball.com/store/p214/Jurassic-Park-Amber-Shooter-Rod-Pinball-Mod.html
The LEDs are from ebay - 3 $.

I removed the the shooter rod and unscrewed the housing, drilled two- LED sized holes from the inside of the housing and one hole into the metal plate for the LED wires.
Finally i hot glued the LED into the housing, installed the shooter rod and connected the LEDs to the GI, so there is a littlebit of action going on too.
It took me about 3 hours, since i'm not experienced.

Some things i want to note:
- brighter LEDs would be nicer
- dont let the LEDs stick out of the housing like me, they can be disturbing during gameplay.

The shooter rod itself is very nice, but there are some things i want to mention.
The rod is a littlebit longer, so the ball rests now on the tip of the rod insted on the auto-plunger-mech, but not affecting gameplay.
There is some slight chipping and a bigger crack where the the rod is screwed into the resin, also the polishing there is not good, resulting in more light reflection there.
But overall a very eye catching feature. Look at this nice insect!

EDIT: I think the insect took a shit at the moment of its death, look at the image

1 (1) (resized).jpg1 (2) (resized).jpg1 (3) (resized).jpg1 (4) (resized).jpg1 (5) (resized).jpg1 (6) (resized).jpg1 (7) (resized).jpg1 (8) (resized).jpg1 (9) (resized).jpg

From what i've read, this looks like a solid update, since the game feels quite finished to me.

I really like what they did with the DNA combos, also that light indicator is important!
But to be honest, who gets 8 DNA combos in one game???
anyone can tell what the change on the escape target is?
but can you also fix my t-rex not eating the ball half of the time?

thanks, but what i meant was regarding the "escape" target, under the control room,
but i guess i missunderstood that point:

- Escape - improve ball save handling on left outlane during certain modes

+1

its really confusing on the t-rex paddock it sais "shoot the set trap targets" but you still have to get a rescue first! (JP Premium)

You lose the warm glow bacause the blue LED cancels out the color. Yellow/Orange is the way to go.

Does anyone shoot DNA combos on purpose for points or EB?
To me its just not worth it beside a little challange.

Over the time i heard alot of complains about the auto-plunger, where the ball wont make it up the heli ramp. I bought a shooter lane protector and after installing it the problem got worse for me, so i decided to examine the issue.

Short answer, if the ball doesn't touch both edges of the autoplunger metal piece, this is not good, and even increasing the autoplunge-power won't help, since the power can not connect. I removed the apron and was easily able to bend the metal piece housing as a whole with a pliers. I did this, because bending just one of the vertical brackets wouldn't solve the problem!

I increased my autoplunger power up to 200 (you find this in the game specific settings NO 300+...)

For those who want to use a shooter lane protector, make sure you install it with a ball in the shooter lane, and check if the ball touches both sides of the autoplunger. Moving the protector a tiny bit from left to right can cause a unconnected ball... use a piece of mylar to fix the protector in the right position.

Maybe this helps.

unbenannt-2 (resized).jpgunbenannt-3 (resized).jpgunbenannt-1 (resized).jpgunbenannt-4 (resized).jpg

at least his form is ok, just look at the original. looks like a machine supported lift.

Do you have any reference for this? I think you are wrong.

you can check ebay for amber insects, they can be cheap from china.

IMG_20200721_174815_1 (resized).jpg

funny i overlooked that fact! thx

shooter lane chipping after 200 games is also a no go, im sure you will get a new unpopulated PF...

mine came from factory aligned like your red line. But as i just read, Keith designed the game with a littlebit droopier flippers.
I just can assume he means something like the green line.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/96#post-5516106

the thing is, those small adjustments can have a big impact on gameplay you wouldn't guess... just like swapping out original stern hard post rubbers (= super fast drains), or waxing a new game.

nope, you missunderstood. the factory ones are the "good" ones, because they are less bouncy resulting in slower balls.

i feel like my flippers are getting weak, since my post passes are getting harder and micro flips easier. I changed the coil stops some months ago. Is there a possibilty that my additional LEDs are draining too much power? or is this a different power source? because i have alot of LEDs solderd to the GI etc... funny that i now can nearly hit every shot... never had such good games!

Wow gogogo!!!

I feel you what helped me A LOT was shot training.
Make yourself some goals, for instance shoot this shot 5 times in a row and do not shoot other shots than that! After completing every shot, you can start doing combos and repeating them again (A shot, tower shot, A shot, tower shot ...). This will give you good muscle memory, and its also is very fun and rewarding. You also will get a sense of how the game is intended to be played, because all those combos make much more sense if you can pull them off. If you keep doing this every day as a warm up routine, you will notice improvement very fast.

Let me know how it went

Don't forget you can manipulate the dinos path, most dinos will travel to the closest lit rescue.
Also wait for a nice spot for the dino with your Helipad shot, take care- the dino will travel faster for one step when you hit the helipad, so better shoot it one step earlier. Also do not collect all rescues, just as much as needed then catch the dino and collect the rescues afterwards, better for streaks, capturing the dino and perfect paddock. Of course its much more rewarding when you can hit any shot and do not have to avoid anything

you can try loosening the bottom sling post and push it in one direction when tightening it again, the same with the inlane metal guide.
i think in your case the problem is the angle of the ball hitting the sling post. a little can make much difference.

Here you go, I removed the rubber for you. the image is also taken from high aboth the machine so you dont get confused by camera angles.
You really can move that post quite much, remove the rubber first... you just have to loosen it up from the top, no need to lift the PF.
zoom in for better quality

IMG_20200818_161400 (resized).jpg

I am not sure, i think its a littlebit of both.

1 degree makes a huge difference and using Keiths recommendation of 7.0 is a good starting point. Why should you start from 6.5 or lower if the designer of this game himself says its made for 7.0

Actually I think the flipper power can be affected with "harder pushing/pressing/slapping", some people even give the machine a nudge at the time they are flipping, but i will exclude this scenario here. I often play better with a more violent approach, seen from good players (Escher Lefkoff for example). I am not sure what it is, but I try to express what I feel and think about it. A fast press/slap does some vibration and can overpower the momentum/spin of the ball to a certain degree, resulting in more accurately and powerful shots. I also feel more connected to the ball due to timing differences and the more control. Being more connected with the game enhances my alertness and geive me better reaction times and motivation to save the ball from draining. I am just playing for a year now, but thats my experience so far.. however there are also very good players with a soft playingstyle.

Oh man you got me, with the new code and all im in, cant wait for the release!

from my experience, an external sub is the way to go here, big improvement! from there you can upgrade your two backbox speakers like you said, from reading the forum there is no big difference from 4 to 5 1-/4 speakers, but since i want to add the LE speaker light kit ill upgrade to 5 1/4 speakers, those lights doesn't look as cheap as the standard one!

here are the adapters with the light kit:
http://www.speakerlightkits.com/5.25-SPIKE-2-Speaker-Plates.html

delt31

Did I miss your release of the soundpack?

cheers

From what i have experienced Extraball is availabe if a t-rex mode is ready or running or if any other multiball is running because Extraball will replace "Raptor-MB". So when Smartmissile is lit you can hit the truck until t-rex is ready, or hit the raptor gate until the raptor MB is lit (dont have to start it). Now you can shoot the t-rex ramp/tower ramp to start smartmissile for your EB.

Regarding chaos letters- first chaos gives you the chaos MB and the second gives you a controll room mode. am i right?

nice approach before bending those guides.

My autolaunches are getting worse to a point it really pisses me off and I do not know how to fix it.
I realigned the shooter fork, did the washer fix and lifted up the heli ramp a littlebit, since the ball sometimes touches it from below.
Yesterday I took alot of slomo videos. One big problem is the thin metal flap on the right side of the shooter lane. Its enough send the ball into the opposite direction, leading to massive rattling. However sometimes the ball launches perfectly straight and it still wont make it up the ramp. Any ideas?

asdf.gif.gif

tes (2).gif

Thanks for all the input! I will report after further testing

There is a tiny casting seam on new stern flipper buttons which drove me crazy, like you described.
Grind it down with a smooth sand paper, easy fix!
For faster grinding you can attatch the button with a double sided 3M tape and turn the button while sanding it .

large (resized).JPGddad (resized).png

I have played with the upper flipper strength, 240 works best for me.

I have a question for prem/LE owners about the red Combo indicator light at the heli pad.
With the last update it should have been fixed but the light still doesn't makes sense to me.
It also lights up during heli blade rotation. The light should flash during an ongoing combo.

During gameplay a screw rolled down coming from the Trex direction (Premium) . I can't find where it came from, black screws are rare so I guess it's not that hard to find. Anyone can help?

IMG_20201019_203321 (resized).jpg

wow thanks, that was crazy...

I wanted to see how i compete with the IFPA players from the PinClash tournament https://www.pinclashtourney.com/
Its really cool to see the actual times and players including the link to their actual best scoring game, give it a try!

I have had the same experience like other members, after some days of training i played a standard game and beat my GC by far from 1 billion to 2,1 billion points (1 death save). My escape nublar time is 3:17. The only downside of the PinClash tournament is that there are only some streamers playing it, so no real comparison- still tons of fun. Too bad i wasn't able to sign up for it, because i noticed it too late- anyone knows where i can get this information earlier next time?

Also learning how deep this game really is... my DP simply cant compete just because of that, but still a great game.

Edit: removed the tower flap, no real differece, just feels a littlebit nicer. added two layers of mylar to protect the edges of the wood. no critical area there because you always can but the flap back on.

Anyone noticed that this is not how the new code is set up, mine is set to 8 as default:

- changed 'DNA COMBOS EXTRA BALL' default from 8 to 6

this would could help me to get to escape nublar, but i dont want to change it from factory.

Got a new escape nublar challange record with 3:01 yay!

Thank you, i guess that was the problem!

I am on V1.03.0 and did a factory reset. DNA combo extraball is set to 8 and it also says thats factory setting.
And why is Tilt Debounce set back from 1000ms to 750 now?

So could anyone check the DNA extraball setting for me? [Feature Adjustment #7]

yeah strange, my game says 8 (installed/factory default) and I double checked the Code, its on V1.03.0

My first update went wrong so i did a second long update with check and it said it worked.
I think I will update it again.

Im no expert regarding the t-rex and having a few rejects by myself but i will try to help
1. Level your game from side to side and get it to 7° degrees, its designed for 7 and small changes can make a big difference. Use a digital leveler and calibrate(!) it, dont use a smartphone.
2. the airball protector is there to keep the ball low enough for the trex mouth, if you remove the washers its too low, and you will get even more rattling balls in the left ramp (I tested this).
3. record a shot in the mouth in slow motion and make sure there is no phyical problem!
4. check if the opto is triggering at the ramp entrance
5. the opened trex`s jaw should kind of touch the ramp as i remember
6. there is a pdf somewhere from stern how to adjust the trex
7. if nothing helps, there is an adjustment where the the shot counts, even if the trex is not eating the ball, so its much less frustrating but you dont have to disable the mech

I tried two more updates and factory resets but it still says EB on 8 DNA combos as (installed/factory).
Anyone knows what could cause this problem?

yes i can, also the new DJ mixer- and adjustments are there.
I just wondered if my game has some kind of bug. But as you said, its just one adjustment so ill just do it manually and live with it.

Since JP is my favourite game and I have learned most skills on this machine you might check out my latest tutorial too, good stuff.
Credit goes to Escher Lefkoff, I learned the Ski jumps from his JP streams https://www.twitch.tv/steveopub

cheers

Here, but the letters fell off right from the start. However it looks cooler without them anyway
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1232-pinball-stuff/03028-jurassic-park-flipper-toppers-pre-order

good idea, they are looking great, especially with the complimentary orange rubbers!

So, who judges when it`s sliding?
When i do nudge passes I sometimes use tiny slides without getting a warning, but its still enough to save the ball.
Like EaglePin said, slides can be just a stronger nudge or even a very slow subtle push to the side.
I also think that the tilt mech should be the judge, you even can set the tilt debounce timing which makes big moves more punishing.

Getting better takes some time as chuckwurt said. If you keep playing, you will notice how different techniques become fluid and you will find yourself using those simultaneously which makes them even stronger and more applicable. The same is true for aiming, if you keep practicing you will slowly get better at it and recover faster from bricked shots with drop catches, dead bounces and nudges. Escape Nublar is a really good practicing mode, challenge yourself and work on your flaws:

cheers

I just wanted to celebrate my 666 th post here!

thank you

So I wonder if you are nudging at all? Just watch some slomo nudging footage and you will see the legs flexing with any kind of nudging.

Pinball machines are designed to take that kind of stress and from seeing chuckwurt playing on live streams he treats the machines like they are meant to be played.