(Topic ID: 248582)

Jurassic Park (Stern 2019) Owners Club. Welcome! To Jurassic park.....

By Scribbles

2 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

10 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #72 Custom Jurassic Park apron cards Posted by Coindropper (2 years ago)

Post #230 Custom Apron Cards for Stern JP Posted by Coindropper (2 years ago)

Post #326 Rules tips and info on some wizard modes Posted by sk8ball (2 years ago)

Post #365 Printable Instruction cards for the pin Posted by PinballZach (2 years ago)

Post #366 The first Full Unboxing Video Posted by ZMeny (2 years ago)

Post #425 Feature Matrix of Pro vs Premium vs LE Posted by Scribbles (2 years ago)

Post #468 How to qualify control room modes Posted by jonesjb (2 years ago)

Post #2298 Keith Elwin explains JP rules Posted by MRG (2 years ago)

Post #3040 Raptor target not registering or "ghost" registering, possible fix Posted by Jesder (2 years ago)

Post #5270 make the jeep work well Posted by Scribbles (1 year ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#3689 1 year ago

that crane fly mod is too cool to be true

1 month later
#4266 1 year ago

I'm in the club too! the machine was build in dec. 2019, bought in germany a week ago.
At first i was a littlebit concerned becaues the machine felt uncommonly for me, but after 30min i was hooked, can't stop playing!!

-Heli-blades got stuck on the metal guide right out of the box. Fixed it carefully in about an hour.
After reassembling the blades they seem to spin too slow and tend to not coming back to the standard position, any idea?

-Clearcoat was deformed too from the metal guides.

-T-Rex opto was covered from its own cable, but working now 100%.

-The flipper buttons seemed to get stuck sometimes, i inspected them and there was a little seam from molding- ground it away, perfekt now.

-I bought an external volume button for spike systems, but i think JP needs a newer one since i do not find the right connection, anyone experienced?

-Anyone knows where i can buy a quiet fan? Its really loud!

-Also the T-Rex is very loud when moving, is this normal?

-The only real problem i can't fix is the Spitter lane. My balls wont go around smooth there about 80%. If you have an idea i would be thankfull!


20200313_152115 (resized).jpg

#4270 1 year ago
Quoted from J-Freeze:

-Make sure the bottom of the heli post isn't rubbing on the plate down there.
-The external volume control should plug in under the menu buttons.
[email protected] sells the quiet fan, I think pinball life carries them now too.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1170-pin-monk/02140-spike-quiet-fan-plug-n-play-kit
-T-rex is loud
-The spitter lane isn't supposed to make it through clean every time. It should feed the pops some of the time.

thanks for taking the time!
There are 3 washers on the heli. I put the one with the bearing at the lowest spot, that worked!
I found the volume controll plug, yay!

I changed the standard post sleeves with superband and it was an airball fest, i swapped them back after 20 seconds play,
because of the potential PF damage.
I dont understand why i didnt read about that in the thread, since i see so much pictures of coloured post sleeves here.
Are there alternative products for those not-bouncy sleeves?

Quoted from JP76:

I replaced my fan last night with a similar one. HUGE difference! Can’t hear it at all.

make sure you have enough cooling power on the new fan!

cheers

#4274 1 year ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

What angle are you at..I have Superbands sleeves at 7 deg and no airballs at all

Exactly 7°, its the increased speed of the ball. It's like setting flipper strength on max, the faster travel speed causes a higher chance of flying balls.
I'm trying the PerfectPlay "thin" ones now.

I have a question on the flipper alignment. Mine are pointing right at the two little alignment holes in the PF.
The thing with JP2 is, that most shots are made with the tip of the flipper. (controll room, pteranodon ramp, O shot, helipad ramp)
Would it make sense to make them droopier, because accuracy decreases on the end of the flippers... Ghostbusters alike.
Of corse trapping would be harder. Anyone tested this?

#4276 1 year ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

I tested this today as a matter of fact. My JP came out of the box sagging well below the flipper alignment. Been playing it for four months in this position. Today I centered the flippers with the flipper alignment and I am making the shots much much more consistently now. I was thinking I really suck at this game for quite awhile
Thanks to Keith chiming in the other day on JP thread brought this to my attention

hmmm ok, so droopy flippers are not a good idea.

#4288 1 year ago

I'm still having problems with airballs. Pitch is 7° and its leveled.
Mainly I'm getting airballs because of the slings. If the ball hits the first sling and from there into the second one, it takes off.
I'm using transparent silicon rubbers, they are causing no problems on my Ghostbusters Pin. And the sling power is turned down to 26.
Sometimes balls jump into the metal rails of the t-rex ramp or the helipad ramp.
The worst airballs i get when hitting the "O"shot and the ball returns right to the upper flipper with full speed and I hit it again with the flipper.
On the flippers i use Titan competition rubbers.

Do you have similar experiences? Any ideas? I'm afraid to damage my PF.

New Highscore, 720.000.000 woot, I really enjoy to figure out alle the modes!
And the the best part are the flippers. I feel like i have so much controll because
of the alignment of the inlane/flipper/sling-combo, microflips are awesome!

#4294 1 year ago

AAAARRRGH!! 600 games, clearcoat is damaged at the upper flippers post.
The post was never loose, because i always checked it!
What can i do now? I payed over 9.000$ here in the EU.
How much will i loose if i want to resell it?
Build date = Dec. 17. 2019
Will i get a replaced, unpopulated PF?
And what can i do to minimize further damage? airgun, PVC washers?
DAMAGE (resized).jpg

#4295 1 year ago
Quoted from Jediturtle:

Try tightening your sling posts, as well as other posts in the game. I've had a lot of recent Sterns with terribly loose posts lately, and they can cause airballs and other issues, especially around the slings. If that doesn't help, I would try going back to normal rubber just to rule that out...and make sure you are using the correct rubber size.

Thank you, posts are tight, rubber size is ok. I will test some more rubbers.

#4303 1 year ago

Thanks for the advice. I will wait until I know how Stern and my distributor want to proceed.

#4323 1 year ago

this is the advice from Stern beside contacting my ditributor:
----------------------------------
I would suggest asking your distributor for a hard coat kit # 502-6947-00 or you can use a polyurethane to lightly apply over the chip. This will prevent the chip from spreading.
----------------------------------

the hard coat kit is not listed in any shop i searched.

to prevent further damage i used this PETG washer. Worked well for another 200 games:
https://pu-parts.com/klare-petg-unterlegscheibe-3-4-zoll

the post sleeve you see is the perfectplay's "thin" post sleeve. Its similar to the sterns hard one, but in different colors and 1mm smaller.
that should cause less black dirt on the PF and maybe some shots are slightly easier now

20200322_094933 (resized).jpg
#4324 1 year ago

Anyone has flickering LEDs? This began after some days of play. Its the four LEDs under the inlane guides, left and right.
I cant tell what it is, the lights brightness seems to change when pushing against the LED itself, and its flickering hard when using a flipper. (vibration?)
And now the weird part, it slightly flickers when i push the flipper button and leave it in the up position.
Swaping LEDs does not help. And somehow the voltage seems to affect them too (hold flipper test).
I have had two mods installed, T-Rex ramp lights and a shaker. Removing them did not help.
I have the same problem with my Ghostbusters now and then.

#4327 1 year ago

-edit-

#4333 1 year ago
Quoted from metallik:

It's not strange, it's the cheap sockets Stern uses. Been this way for years, just like their junk coil stops. Flipper vibration causes intermittent connectivity in the socket, thats why it's always the inlanes. Pull the LED and squish the socket a bit to make it tighter.

my socket just broke

#4353 1 year ago

The screws of the T-Rex ramps posts, holding that airball protector always come loose.
Yesterday, they unscrewed! themself, falling on the PF.

I read about using the blue locktite, but those are screws i dont want to glue because i change rubbers from the posts etc.
Is there another solution and do your screws also get loose?

#4393 1 year ago
Quoted from jacksparrow0112:

Just picked up a pro last week and am loving it. First pin I’ve ever owned and am enjoying dialing in all the shots. I think I may need to adjust the upper flipper angle as it dips towards the S lane more that I think it should. When playing on location I can hit a fast O shot, hold the flipper up, and the ball will hit the raised flipper coming out of the orbit and shoot back up the O lane to the pops (which I love). On mine, the ball hits the raised upper flipper and goes partway up the A ramp (which I don’t love).
How do you go about adjusting flipper angle on a pin? Thanks in advance![quoted image][quoted image]

I'm iterested in this too. I see this double loop working on most streams, but not on my pin.
You just can fine adjust this. Reference should be the post. If you ball comes down the O lane, the post should prevent a center drain.
So you dont have much to play with. There is also a small hole next to the post for flipper adjustment, but that point cant be right imo.

EDIT, just found that on the other thread:

Quoted from sk8ball:

Correct for the bottom flippers. Top flipper the hole aligns to the top of the bat.

#4395 1 year ago

I have a question, i changed the balls from day one, since the stern ones are not high gloss.
Now i read that on pins where magnets are used, i should use low magnetic balls. I didn't notice any problems so far.
Should i swap them?

#4407 1 year ago

Today i found two more clear coat chippings at the guide of the left orbit and the tower shot...
Would it be so hard for stern to put a washer there? Already send the photos to my distributor.
Im not amused.

#4434 1 year ago

so you dont use the standard factory flipper strength? I checked it in the settings, and those are already set on different strengths (255/235), so i trusted those. i set the game on 7°, is it worth to play around with those factors? My main problem is the Helipad ramp, since its so much needed when getting deeper into the game, sometimes i need 6 tries.
I have the game now for 2 weeks and i feel like im not making any more progress. pteranodon paddock at best, no visitor center for me.
i have days, i can shoot combos like crazy and the next day i'm even not hitting the t-trex ramp most of the time i only get one extraball from 6 rescues, i have to learn the code better too, but it seems to be hard to get more extraballs. (fossils, t-rex, smart missile)

i was not able to dial in my loop, so that the O shot feeds O shot again by holding up upper flipper. I read EaglePin's posts about it, but the ball goes down too low, and barely can reach the tip of the upper flipper. the only idea would be to bend the lane guide... that could cause trouble, because i also have to make that shot the other way around.

#4439 1 year ago

thanks, flippers are aligned, playfield is perfecty leveled and i'm using titan comp. rubbers and reduced ball hopp by inlane adjusting.
i know that experience with fresh waxing
i'll start with adjusting flipper strengh.

i swaped to transparent rubbers to avoid this black dirt, but somehow JP gets dirty very fast, whats your experience?
do you have a strategy on getting extraballs?

anyone tried to make the machine quieter with foam inside of the cabinet? the flippers are really loud on this one.

#4440 1 year ago

OMG, just reduced every flipper strength to 235. it made all the difference and reduced airballs alot.
maybe this would have prevented some clear coat chipping too...

the flipper strength difference changes the S shot at the flipper maybe about 0.5- 1cm. Before, i have had to wait until the straight part of the rubber got passed by the ball and then shoot with rounded tip edge of the flipper. I realize now that this made the shot very hard.

#4460 1 year ago

I just gave the S lane at the end a small bend with a plier, now it doesnt bounce to the sling anymore.
you have to remove the ramp and the heli plastics before.

1 week later
#4574 1 year ago
Quoted from Dr-pin:

Might be, as said, i´ve only had the game for a week.
Chaos MB is fun but the shots to get it, is a pita. Thoose time i get it, i focus the entire game on getting theme hopeless shots and even if i get it i end up with lesser scores, then i have when going for the rest.
Imo C, O and the S targets are all badly constructed.

spend more time on it, the shots will feel better after some time (always work on accuracy and recap if you shot too early or late).
very important for me was to set every flipper on 235 strengh. this will make especially the S shot easier!

2 weeks later
#4831 1 year ago

I wanted to make my own shooter knob with LEDs, because i found this ebay.com link: itm
But it looks way too big, and i have no tools to grind it down. Anyone have other ideas how I could do this?

#4837 1 year ago
Quoted from jandrea95:

Noticed this twice so far now so figured I would reach out. Every once in a while (twice in past month or so), the game wont boot initially. The dim backboard light comes on, but nothing on the play field, lcd, etc. Turning it off and back on brings it to life like nothing happened, and then I can proceed to play as long as I want without issue.
Any thoughts on why the initial boot wont work? Thanks

Exact same on my NIB deadpool pro.

#4890 1 year ago
Quoted from WJxxxx:

The biggest issue I have on the Pro with the left ramp is the ball gaining air and not only not registering the optos, but also rattling and often jumping the ramp.
I believe it to be that the ramp flap is longer and more flexible than most others I have seen on other machines, or even the right ramp on JP. The fix is to try and stop that flap flexing and creating a sharper ramp which gives the ball air.
My friend has a Prem and also seeing similar issues until he lifted the ramp and placed a pillar rubber (cut in 2 lengthways) under the flap. This means no flexing of the flap, no air balls and thus no missed shots.
I just haven't got round to doing it on mine yet, as I'm waiting for a few other bits and bobs and will fit everything at once.

thats interesting, i have so much rattling balls on this ramp and wondered about it... i will try this out with a piece of hard rubber.

EDIT: as i said, i tried it with some hard rubber piece and it does not help. i inspected the rattling and i found it comes from shots hitting the left metal guide on the ramp. this metal piece extends into the ramp shot, behind the left post. it would help to move the ramp (2 screws in the wood) just a tiny bit so the metal isn't getting into the way.

#4892 1 year ago

7° is the well known perfect angle. small changes can make a huge difference but always be aware of the placebo, which sometimes can be extreme
the bubble leveler from my experience sucks bad. why they even include those? on same games with same pitch they can be completely off. so they are not even calibrated to 6.5, even if this is not the perfect pitch for every game, so whats the purpose??

so pitch is very important, like left to right leveling and flipper adjustment. Other things often also can be tweaked and make a huge difference. like ball guides from orbits. i always see games where the ball goes right into the slings from the orbit feed. i have had this on GB, DP and TWD and was able to fix those easily with some slight bending or re-screwing... saves a lot of frustration. i love this process of "dialing games in".

1 week later
#4970 1 year ago
Quoted from HOOKED:

Jp shooter in stock.
Hookedonpinball.com
[quoted image]

Looks great, but where can i get the yellow LEDs like the original?
Anyone knows how to build it and where to plug it in?

#4973 1 year ago

if you didn't check the latest production of those rods, they are not looking good from stern.
So i wondered if i could build my own. drill 2 holes and take the GI power or something else for the LEDs.

#4976 1 year ago
Quoted from Delta9:

Cant be that hard to drill to small holes the size of the leds and tye them in to the amber light

yeah, but where is that "amber light connection", i think it has its own programed light show?

#4998 1 year ago
Quoted from Jon9508:

The connection is on the small board under the left flipper. It does have it's own light show. Kinda pluses and what not. I can take a picture If need be

that would be awesome, the shooter rod is on its way!

#5028 1 year ago
Quoted from WedgeTheJedi:

Hey all,
Just got this machine, my first pin, and wanted a quick reference guide for the paddock bonuses. Threw this together as a 3x5.5 in card and looks great. Enjoy.
[quoted image][quoted image]

nice! i missing the extraball reward on the t-rex?

-----------------

i have a problem with finding little metal pieces on my PF, until now it was more dust like, but look how big that thing is! I also have some bigger cuts and scratches.
i only have one explaination for this, the truck screw. what do you think?
I have to say that im really disapointed with my 9K $ game quality wise. but i love the gameplay.

the clear coat sucks, and how they could prevent PF damage with some washers and rubbers worth less than 5$.
just look what people say about R&M clearcoat, day and night.

IMG_20200518_153940 (resized).jpgIMG_20200518_154259 (resized).jpg

#5030 1 year ago
Quoted from WedgeTheJedi:

Thanks all for the feedback on the paddock bonus card and a few things that I missed and misspelled. I have fixed up the card to include the extra ball for T-rex and added the Amber Bonus numbers as well. This one should be better .[quoted image][quoted image]

thanks! i'll print that

#5037 1 year ago
Quoted from ectobar:

FYI: The set screw to remove the truck is a 3/32" allen wrench.
Had to go buy a set of SAE allens. The 3 different sets I had on hand were all metric.

in my experience there is no single part "metric" in pinball machines. i have had to buy all my tools new.

#5041 1 year ago

FYI, i get a new unpopulated PF because i have minor clear coat damage at some places (post, lane guides and apron).
you should not tolerate that, stern has to learn this lesson- fight for it.
If you are accepting this for an 8K game, it wont change in the future.

Quoted from Hawks:

Well I’m in, I’ve sold my DPLE for a JP premium
I hope I’ve done the right thing as DP was awesome

I have both, and like JP more, but DP is awesome too and im happy i can keep it a little longer.

#5069 1 year ago
Quoted from roar:

Two showed up on Ebay, one is gone the other is there, but I'm not paying scalpers prices for it.
ebay.com link » Stern Jurassic Park Shooter Knob Rare Only A Few In Stock 502 7101 00

hahaha watch the insect... thats one of the new stern rods and thats why the seller is selling it, looks like sht.
i laugh because of the description:
This is the impossible to find official Stern Jurassic Park Shooter knob. The shooter knob and rod is crowned with an illuminated egg-shaped amber globe, housing a suspended fossilized mosquito...the key to unlocking the dinosaurs in Jurassic Park. Based on the movie prop, this is possibly the coolest pinball plunger ever made and fits all three Stern Jurassic Park pinball machines: Pro, Premium & LE. This official Jurassic Park shooter knob and rod adds a fun element to your pinball experience from the very first plunge.

#5074 1 year ago
Quoted from Andy_Chapman:

Hey Manny65, I got the playfield up again and found the problem. The piece at the end of the rod under the playfield connected to the Jeep had come loose and slipped down. This was catching on the edge of the light sensor... now I just got to find the right sized allen key to tighten it!
Your tip for fixing the in lane issue worked a treat too, quick easy fix and plays much better now. I also adjusted the angle to 6.5deg and found that it did indeed play better.
Thanks for all the advise, she's playing like a dream now!

angle should be 7.0°

#5109 1 year ago
Quoted from weaverj:

new owner here; day one. anyone experience a cabinet speaker tick? at the end of ball and before starting the next, my main cabinet speaker will sometimes repeatedly "tick" until i launch, again. hopefully a quick fix. ty.

subwoofer connected?

#5169 1 year ago
Quoted from Lounge:

PerfectPlay ‘slim’ post sleeves are not tpered.

not tapered, and they are destroyed in 2 weeks! sterns original hard rubber tpered are the best.
any other rubbers i tried have extreme fast rebound or will break like the perfectplay ones.

Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Took some slow-mo vids of me taking shots at the T-Rex.

I've also noticed I've been getting a surprising amount of failed shots to the ramp when the T-Rex head it out of the way. Seems to either rattle at the opening, and not make it all the way up and roll back down for a guaranteed SDTM.
I have my game set at 6.5 degrees, and I've also replaced my coil stops. I also have the ramp opto fix from Stern installed.
Not sure what else to do here.

you game should have an angle of 7.0, thats quite important! also level it from left to right.
the metal piece on the left side of the ramp seems to be not attached well, the folding of the piece should wrap the end of the plastic ramp.

asdf (resized).png
#5214 1 year ago

That topper is joke, thats just the beginning... just wait for the hidden feature on the TMNT.

#5300 1 year ago

Anyone can help me out?
I want to rebuild the stern shooter rods lights, but i dont know where to attach the LEDs.
I will drill two holes and put a white through light kit there with a yellow foil.
I found some images of the original shooter rod kit, but since i know nothing about electricity i dont know how i can rebuild/order that plug, since its not just simple +/-
I am afraid to destroy a board or something with wrong wireing- i dont want to plug it to the GI, this thing has its own lightshow.
I also have a soldering iron if needed.
IMG_20200607_110952 (resized).jpgIMG_20200524_232559 (resized).jpgIMG_20200524_232720 (resized).jpgIMG_20200524_232734 (resized).jpg

#5302 1 year ago
Quoted from Scribbles:

Not sure exactly what you're asking? Are you asking where to solder that red/black wire to the LED strip?

yeah sorry, where is the original connection for the shooter rod? and how i can connect two cables from the LEDs there, i guess i need some kind of connector plastic like in the images.

#5304 1 year ago
Quoted from Jon9508:

The connection for the shooter rod is on the shaker board on the left side. I believe it's the bottom set of pins. If you don't have the connector, you could use a spade connector and push them on. I would take a picture but I sold my game over the weekend.

thanks, how do i know which pins i have to use, if i know the right connection. because they all have multiple pins, no simple +/-

#5334 1 year ago

from time to time i have had problems with the right pass, but now it works perfectly.

#5341 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

And left power should be 255, and 235 on the right?

thats factory setting, yes.
imo just turn down the ball eject power to a very low setting, flipper power is ok as it is.

So noone can take a picture of the stern shooter rod connection? so i know where i have to plug it in.

#5344 1 year ago
Quoted from Brady2Gronk:

Here ya go.
[quoted image][quoted image]

thanks!

#5363 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Coil stops, coil sleeves, and springs all replaced.
I'm at 6.7 degrees and perfectly level side to side.
Stock power settings and red rubbers.
I noticed on one of the Stern streams, they were using black rubber. Did some games ship with black?

PF should be at 7° !!

from time to time i have had the same issue, and imo its not the flipper power.
try a different timing on the flippers when doing post passes, slower/faster.
waxing can change things too, try to just wax the area down there.

#5365 1 year ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

Wax his area “down there” ouch!

haha sorry, english is not my native language, but i get the joke.

#5397 1 year ago

I also did some rubber testing. If the game is too hard for you, put back the original hard black post sleeves, they are much less bouncy! And the ball will not go crazy fast SDTM or straight outlane as often.
for the slings i got alot of airballs with superbands and silcon rubbers, went back to original!
outlane rubbers and slingrubbers anything else than original also will make the ball more unpredictable resulting in more drains.
on the flippers i went titans again, love them.

#5398 1 year ago

doublepost

#5437 1 year ago
Quoted from ShooterMcD:

New JP Pro built in March. About 400 plays and pretty significant post damage. What are my options? I ordered a Cliffy post protector... Is Stern likely to do anything about it?
[quoted image][quoted image]

i will get a new unpopulated PF for that reason! this is not acceptable!

Quoted from Jediturtle:

They will almost surely send you an unpopulated playfield for that kind of damage. Expect it to take a LONG time, but they will eventually. You will almost definitely not get a populated playfield. I do not think they are doing that for anyone anymore.

How long? any idea, because i am waiting too.

#5447 1 year ago
Quoted from Jediturtle:

Hard to say. It all depends on if they have them in stock or have to wait for a run of them to be made. Plus with Covid, everything is going to be even further behind. I've had a few playfields replaced over the years, and usually it takes a couple months between the initial review time for them to decide if you get one and then the time to actually send you one. One game took extra long as the game was no longer being manufactured at the time, so it was awhile before playfields could be run. I want to say that one took 3-4 months total.
I am currently waiting for one, and its been three months since they confirmed it would be replaced. Of course that's right when Covid hit, so I can understand the holdup. The game is perfectly playable as-is, and I'm not in a huge hurry to do a swap, so I do not mind the wait as long as I know it will be made right eventually.

thanks for the insight!

#5456 1 year ago

Anyone knows a save way to shoot the ESCAPE target? i often get direct right outlane bounces.

#5473 1 year ago
Quoted from Jediturtle:

Of all the cost savings measures Stern has done over the years, I can't for the life of me figure out why they still include bubble levels. They are rarely correct, and do nothing but confuse newer owners. Never, ever trust the bubble.

Also Kaneda is confused by the bubble levels haha

#5480 1 year ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

Your camera is amazing!

a smartphone can do that!

1 week later
#5586 1 year ago

for beginners its best to press 3 times at the smart missile, there should be the raptor multiball and if not the EB is right in the same spot.

1 week later
#5682 1 year ago

I'm curious what your avaerage scores and strategies are.
Most of the time I am between 100 and 300 million, sometimes 700+ and my GC was about 1.3 Billion.
Reaching the Visitor Center is very rare for me, but this is where the points are. I only seem to get there with the T-Rex extraball.
Once i got there on ball 1 without a EB

At the first ball i try to get "C" for chaos and to lock a ball. From there i just try to capture dinos and get EB's. Fossiles happens rarely...
Control Room and T-Rex modes make me drain most of the time.

#5747 1 year ago

Hey everyone, I finally installed my shooter rod with additional LEDs.
I bought the shoter rod from hookedonpinball.com.
https://www.hookedonpinball.com/store/p214/Jurassic-Park-Amber-Shooter-Rod-Pinball-Mod.html
The LEDs are from ebay - 3 $.

I removed the the shooter rod and unscrewed the housing, drilled two- LED sized holes from the inside of the housing and one hole into the metal plate for the LED wires.
Finally i hot glued the LED into the housing, installed the shooter rod and connected the LEDs to the GI, so there is a littlebit of action going on too.
It took me about 3 hours, since i'm not experienced.

Some things i want to note:
- brighter LEDs would be nicer
- dont let the LEDs stick out of the housing like me, they can be disturbing during gameplay.

The shooter rod itself is very nice, but there are some things i want to mention.
The rod is a littlebit longer, so the ball rests now on the tip of the rod insted on the auto-plunger-mech, but not affecting gameplay.
There is some slight chipping and a bigger crack where the the rod is screwed into the resin, also the polishing there is not good, resulting in more light reflection there.
But overall a very eye catching feature. Look at this nice insect!

EDIT: I think the insect took a shit at the moment of its death, look at the image

1 (1) (resized).jpg1 (2) (resized).jpg1 (3) (resized).jpg1 (4) (resized).jpg1 (5) (resized).jpg1 (6) (resized).jpg1 (7) (resized).jpg1 (8) (resized).jpg1 (9) (resized).jpg

1 week later
#5864 1 year ago

From what i've read, this looks like a solid update, since the game feels quite finished to me.

I really like what they did with the DNA combos, also that light indicator is important!
But to be honest, who gets 8 DNA combos in one game???
anyone can tell what the change on the escape target is?
but can you also fix my t-rex not eating the ball half of the time?

#5872 1 year ago
Quoted from Grossp59:

Not sure this is what you're asking, but I'll take a shot.
In escape nublar mode, after you complete the rescues, shots will light up red and the callout tells you to find an exit. This part of the code used to be random, where hitting a red shot either progressed the mode, or left you needing to hit a different shot to escape. The new code has a competition mode that removes the randomness from this. Instead, you have to hit x amount of shots (depending on what paddock you're in) to progress the mode.
Hope this helps.

thanks, but what i meant was regarding the "escape" target, under the control room,
but i guess i missunderstood that point:

- Escape - improve ball save handling on left outlane during certain modes

#5892 1 year ago
Quoted from Lounge:

And this one has been bugging me too....
On both the TRex and Spinsaurous paddocks after 2 rescues the callout is “shoot the set trap targets” when 3 rescues are required to light the targets. It’s the little things.

+1

its really confusing on the t-rex paddock it sais "shoot the set trap targets" but you still have to get a rescue first! (JP Premium)

#5957 1 year ago
Quoted from jeep-mustang:

The “mosquito” (crane fly) looks awesome in the shooter rod I just built.
I ordered the cane topper from-
https://cosology.com/collections/jurassic-park-collection/products/jurassic-park-amber-cane-topper-john-hammond-egg-only?variant=28957324476450
Drilled it out and added a led light strip on the back of the shooter rod plate.
I need to touch up the drilled holes in the shooter plate as the light reflects off the raw metal and flares upwards, painting the hole flat black should fix this.
The placement of the bug in the resin is perfect though.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

You lose the warm glow bacause the blue LED cancels out the color. Yellow/Orange is the way to go.

Does anyone shoot DNA combos on purpose for points or EB?
To me its just not worth it beside a little challange.

#5969 1 year ago

Over the time i heard alot of complains about the auto-plunger, where the ball wont make it up the heli ramp. I bought a shooter lane protector and after installing it the problem got worse for me, so i decided to examine the issue.

Short answer, if the ball doesn't touch both edges of the autoplunger metal piece, this is not good, and even increasing the autoplunge-power won't help, since the power can not connect. I removed the apron and was easily able to bend the metal piece housing as a whole with a pliers. I did this, because bending just one of the vertical brackets wouldn't solve the problem!

I increased my autoplunger power up to 200 (you find this in the game specific settings NO 300+...)

For those who want to use a shooter lane protector, make sure you install it with a ball in the shooter lane, and check if the ball touches both sides of the autoplunger. Moving the protector a tiny bit from left to right can cause a unconnected ball... use a piece of mylar to fix the protector in the right position.

Maybe this helps.

unbenannt-2 (resized).jpgunbenannt-3 (resized).jpgunbenannt-1 (resized).jpgunbenannt-4 (resized).jpg

#5992 1 year ago
Quoted from roar:

I laughed at that animation the other day... that guy is either super jacked or that gate is made of the lightest material in the world... it looks super heavy and he dead lifts it up effortlessly!

at least his form is ok, just look at the original. looks like a machine supported lift.

#6061 1 year ago
Quoted from metallik:

Flippers are droopy on purpose; C O and S shots need them droopy to be reasonable makeable.

Do you have any reference for this? I think you are wrong.

Quoted from tdiddy:

Do pro owners have and options for modding their pop bumper caps?

you can check ebay for amber insects, they can be cheap from china.

IMG_20200721_174815_1 (resized).jpg
#6064 1 year ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Here is Keith's (the designer of the game) answer to this "It's your game to align the flippers as you wish but both JP and Maiden uses "flopped" flippers for the side shots on purpose."
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/96#post-5516106

funny i overlooked that fact! thx

#6070 1 year ago
Quoted from Multiballmaniac1:

I am working on protecting shooter lane later today. I will turn power down too. Half of my ball guide connections have pooling. Wtf. They haven’t fixed anything. Thinner clear and same issues.

shooter lane chipping after 200 games is also a no go, im sure you will get a new unpopulated PF...

#6106 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Did yours come like that? I've had to replace my coil stops, and when I put everything back together, I lined the middle of the tip of the bats to the hole.
Yours looks like if you drew a line down the top of the bat, it would connect to that alignment hole?
For example, yours looks it's where the red line is, but I have mine adjusted to the green.
Can anyone else confirm if theirs is like this? Should it be like the red or green when it comes from the factory?
[quoted image]

mine came from factory aligned like your red line. But as i just read, Keith designed the game with a littlebit droopier flippers.
I just can assume he means something like the green line.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/96#post-5516106

the thing is, those small adjustments can have a big impact on gameplay you wouldn't guess... just like swapping out original stern hard post rubbers (= super fast drains), or waxing a new game.

#6127 1 year ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

Stern hard post rubbers = super fast drains. Would switching out the rubbers on this playfield let me sleep better at night after an evening of high blood pressure caused by super fast drains? Any suggestions/links on the brand? The out lanes in this game are making it hard for me to continue calling myself a Christian after some of the things coming out of my mouth.

nope, you missunderstood. the factory ones are the "good" ones, because they are less bouncy resulting in slower balls.

i feel like my flippers are getting weak, since my post passes are getting harder and micro flips easier. I changed the coil stops some months ago. Is there a possibilty that my additional LEDs are draining too much power? or is this a different power source? because i have alot of LEDs solderd to the GI etc... funny that i now can nearly hit every shot... never had such good games!

1 week later
#6311 1 year ago

Wow gogogo!!!

#6321 1 year ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

Anyone else find the A shot (right helix ramp) to be the hardest shot on in the game by far?
I know some people find the O and C to be tough but I feel like I have a good sense of how to hit those. The A just seems to have a mind of its own or something, it doesn’t even look tight, it’s right there... maybe it’s in my head? I do seem to be able to hit it during the skill shot.

I feel you what helped me A LOT was shot training.
Make yourself some goals, for instance shoot this shot 5 times in a row and do not shoot other shots than that! After completing every shot, you can start doing combos and repeating them again (A shot, tower shot, A shot, tower shot ...). This will give you good muscle memory, and its also is very fun and rewarding. You also will get a sense of how the game is intended to be played, because all those combos make much more sense if you can pull them off. If you keep doing this every day as a warm up routine, you will notice improvement very fast.

Let me know how it went

#6364 1 year ago
Quoted from Hop721:

Yes! I keep forgetting about that!
This is the first game I’ve ever owned with an action button and I am still getting used to it. Thank you for the reminder!

Don't forget you can manipulate the dinos path, most dinos will travel to the closest lit rescue.
Also wait for a nice spot for the dino with your Helipad shot, take care- the dino will travel faster for one step when you hit the helipad, so better shoot it one step earlier. Also do not collect all rescues, just as much as needed then catch the dino and collect the rescues afterwards, better for streaks, capturing the dino and perfect paddock. Of course its much more rewarding when you can hit any shot and do not have to avoid anything

#6365 1 year ago
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:

Don't forget you can manipulate the dinos path, most dinos will travel to the closest lit rescue.
Also wait for a nice spot for the dino with your Helipad shot, take care- the dino will travel faster for one step when you hit the helipad, so better shoot it one step earlier. Also do not collect all rescues, just as much as needed then catch the dino and collect the rescues afterwards, better for streaks, capturing the dino and perfect paddock. Of course its much more rewarding when you can hit any shot and do not have to avoid anything.

#6386 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Red rubber was even worse. Black improved, but barely. I probably get it across to the right 30% of the time enough to actually catch it.
Rest of the time, it's just a weak-ass pass that I have to immediately flip or it's a drain.
What could be causing this? Anyone?
I'm considering rebuilding the entire flipper, which is insane for a brand new LE game.

you can try loosening the bottom sling post and push it in one direction when tightening it again, the same with the inlane metal guide.
i think in your case the problem is the angle of the ball hitting the sling post. a little can make much difference.

#6429 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

If anyone has a moment, can you take a quick photo of the lower slingshot post on the left side (that the ball would hit off of if you were doing a post pass).
Thanks so much!

Here you go, I removed the rubber for you. the image is also taken from high aboth the machine so you dont get confused by camera angles.
You really can move that post quite much, remove the rubber first... you just have to loosen it up from the top, no need to lift the PF.
zoom in for better quality

IMG_20200818_161400 (resized).jpg

#6432 1 year ago
Quoted from gorditas:

Is that post drilled off center, like a cam, or is the hole just that much larger than the machine screw that holds it in place? I didn't know there was that much adjustment available there.

I am not sure, i think its a littlebit of both.

#6539 1 year ago

1 degree makes a huge difference and using Keiths recommendation of 7.0 is a good starting point. Why should you start from 6.5 or lower if the designer of this game himself says its made for 7.0

#6597 1 year ago
Quoted from Scribbles:

All this flipper talk reminded me, my wife is convinced that pushing the flippers harder equals stronger flips. Hence, the reason I play better than her. I can "flip stronger" than her. Bless her heart. I can't convince her otherwise.

Actually I think the flipper power can be affected with "harder pushing/pressing/slapping", some people even give the machine a nudge at the time they are flipping, but i will exclude this scenario here. I often play better with a more violent approach, seen from good players (Escher Lefkoff for example). I am not sure what it is, but I try to express what I feel and think about it. A fast press/slap does some vibration and can overpower the momentum/spin of the ball to a certain degree, resulting in more accurately and powerful shots. I also feel more connected to the ball due to timing differences and the more control. Being more connected with the game enhances my alertness and geive me better reaction times and motivation to save the ball from draining. I am just playing for a year now, but thats my experience so far.. however there are also very good players with a soft playingstyle.

#6654 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

Another video with some new clips

Oh man you got me, with the new code and all im in, cant wait for the release!

#6662 1 year ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

Just opened my JP Premium backbox to put Tim's 1.02v29 audio update card in, and while I was there, stopped to look at the pathetic undersized speakers. Really? 4-inch speakers with the smallest magnets you can buy for a 4-inch speaker. Really? Anyway, I get the LE uses a different bracket and 5-1/4 inch speakers, but I am thinking of just getting some pretty decent 4-inch speakers to swap in, without any big effort. The Kicker 43DSC40's seem to be a great choice. $50 for the pair and should have good performance in the mid and high-end of the speaker feed.
Anyone else played this low-cost upgrade game? I hate spending another $175 for a PBP or FF full speaker upgrade kit, but for $50 it would seem to be a good economy upgrade. (And I could get a much higher quality 6-1/2 inch woofer for $25 if I cared to)
Thoughts?

from my experience, an external sub is the way to go here, big improvement! from there you can upgrade your two backbox speakers like you said, from reading the forum there is no big difference from 4 to 5 1-/4 speakers, but since i want to add the LE speaker light kit ill upgrade to 5 1/4 speakers, those lights doesn't look as cheap as the standard one!

here are the adapters with the light kit:
http://www.speakerlightkits.com/5.25-SPIKE-2-Speaker-Plates.html

#6720 1 year ago

delt31

Did I miss your release of the soundpack?

cheers

1 week later
#6837 1 year ago
Quoted from Hop721:

I seem to remember hearing on a stream that the first smart missile will have the +5 rescues and, if you hit it, the next SM will have the option for extra ball in place of the +5. I’ve always gone with +5 on my first just so I can unlock that EB for my second. Plus, as stated before, that +5 can push you over for a rescue EB.

From what i have experienced Extraball is availabe if a t-rex mode is ready or running or if any other multiball is running because Extraball will replace "Raptor-MB". So when Smartmissile is lit you can hit the truck until t-rex is ready, or hit the raptor gate until the raptor MB is lit (dont have to start it). Now you can shoot the t-rex ramp/tower ramp to start smartmissile for your EB.

Regarding chaos letters- first chaos gives you the chaos MB and the second gives you a controll room mode. am i right?

#6977 1 year ago
Quoted from Lounge:

Take a very thin 1-2mm strip of mylar and stick it directly in the crease of the bend closest to the flippers - the last crease in the ball guide.
On mine the ball was bouncing off the transition crease and going sdtm. Experiment with thin strips of blue painters tape then finalize with mylar cut similarly to the painters tape.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/96#post-5609401

nice approach before bending those guides.

#7040 1 year ago

My autolaunches are getting worse to a point it really pisses me off and I do not know how to fix it.
I realigned the shooter fork, did the washer fix and lifted up the heli ramp a littlebit, since the ball sometimes touches it from below.
Yesterday I took alot of slomo videos. One big problem is the thin metal flap on the right side of the shooter lane. Its enough send the ball into the opposite direction, leading to massive rattling. However sometimes the ball launches perfectly straight and it still wont make it up the ramp. Any ideas?

asdf.gif.giftes (2).gif
#7051 1 year ago

Thanks for all the input! I will report after further testing

1 week later
#7207 1 year ago
Quoted from BeeGee6533:

Hello everyone, I'm a newbie owner(played machines for years though) and I've owned my Stern NIB JP premium for about 3 months and love it. It's my 3rd pinball machine. However, I'm having issues with flippers. When it arrived there always seemed to be unsmooth feel often, pushing the flipper button itself. As if it was getting friction/resistance as the button pressed in to its housing(kind of like a notch that was resisting the push and then would clear the resistance suddenly.) I more or less got used to it and now it's less pronounced. However, now the left flipper is not responding at all to subtle "micro-flips" for tap or flick passes along with post passes(won't respond at all to post pass attempts from the left flipper all of a sudden). It used to perform these functions perfectly until the last few days. The flipper is almost binary now: full flip or nothing at all. I have the flipper power set to full in the settings. I've read about new Sterns having terrible coil stops and coil sleeves. Is this maybe the issue? I've ordered new ones from pinballife.com. I'm also thinking it needs new plastic buttons just to be safe. As I investigate further I'm discovering other possibilities like the EOS switches(still unclear if that's the switch the plastic flipper button connects to or something on the playfield near the flipper coil?) Any insight or advice would be greatly appreciated!

There is a tiny casting seam on new stern flipper buttons which drove me crazy, like you described.
Grind it down with a smooth sand paper, easy fix!
For faster grinding you can attatch the button with a double sided 3M tape and turn the button while sanding it .

large (resized).JPGddad (resized).png

#7299 1 year ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Upper flipper does seem pretty strong. Might try a lower power on that but seems like the lower flippers need a good kick to make the ramp shots. I will try a higher pitch as well. It's also hard to get the launch to make it around the heli pad ramp. Previous owner already titled the ramp fork to the right and looks like launchers hit ball squarely. Like to get this game playing smoothly but that seems to be a tough task. Still a great game, though.

I have played with the upper flipper strength, 240 works best for me.

#7363 1 year ago

I have a question for prem/LE owners about the red Combo indicator light at the heli pad.
With the last update it should have been fixed but the light still doesn't makes sense to me.
It also lights up during heli blade rotation. The light should flash during an ongoing combo.

1 week later
#7495 1 year ago

During gameplay a screw rolled down coming from the Trex direction (Premium) . I can't find where it came from, black screws are rare so I guess it's not that hard to find. Anyone can help?

IMG_20201019_203321 (resized).jpg
#7503 1 year ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

That looks like a screw that goes under the jaw, there are 3 or 4 under there I believe,. I used blue loctite on all of mine... It's tricky to get under there, a small angled mirror and a magnetized small screwdriver and many attempts is what it took to get those back in

wow thanks, that was crazy...

1 week later
#7737 1 year ago

I wanted to see how i compete with the IFPA players from the PinClash tournament https://www.pinclashtourney.com/
Its really cool to see the actual times and players including the link to their actual best scoring game, give it a try!

I have had the same experience like other members, after some days of training i played a standard game and beat my GC by far from 1 billion to 2,1 billion points (1 death save). My escape nublar time is 3:17. The only downside of the PinClash tournament is that there are only some streamers playing it, so no real comparison- still tons of fun. Too bad i wasn't able to sign up for it, because i noticed it too late- anyone knows where i can get this information earlier next time?

Also learning how deep this game really is... my DP simply cant compete just because of that, but still a great game.

Edit: removed the tower flap, no real differece, just feels a littlebit nicer. added two layers of mylar to protect the edges of the wood. no critical area there because you always can but the flap back on.

#7817 1 year ago

Anyone noticed that this is not how the new code is set up, mine is set to 8 as default:

- changed 'DNA COMBOS EXTRA BALL' default from 8 to 6

this would could help me to get to escape nublar, but i dont want to change it from factory.

Got a new escape nublar challange record with 3:01 yay!

#7822 1 year ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

Did you restore your settings/scores after the update(switching between the custom code and this one)? If you did then that’s why it’s still at 8. Your saved settings are overriding the default.

Thank you, i guess that was the problem!

#7830 1 year ago

I am on V1.03.0 and did a factory reset. DNA combo extraball is set to 8 and it also says thats factory setting.
And why is Tilt Debounce set back from 1000ms to 750 now?

So could anyone check the DNA extraball setting for me? [Feature Adjustment #7]

#7838 1 year ago
Quoted from Manny65:

When you go into the DNA combo extraball setting - what is the factory default (6 or 8)? It should show 6 as default - as per the screen shot from ectobar

Quoted from ectobar:

Just updated. [quoted image]

yeah strange, my game says 8 (installed/factory default) and I double checked the Code, its on V1.03.0

My first update went wrong so i did a second long update with check and it said it worked.
I think I will update it again.

#7840 1 year ago
Quoted from ReluctantPin:

Hi all!
So I'm getting a ton of ball rejects from the T-Rex ramp. I've searched the board, and I've seen the previous replies. I've tried removing the plastic spacers on the ramp air-ball protector plastic (and even adding washers, too, in case this helped). I've tried reducing the lower flipper power. And I'm between 6.5 and 7 degrees, and have tried different angles.
It's almost like the balls hit the bottom of the T-rex itself sometimes and rattle back down. I'm not sure if this is a common thing?
I was wondering if anyone has tried anything drastic like trying to raise or lower the static t-rex itself, and if this has helped?
Thanks! I'm missing so many shots because of this and it's bumming me out.

Im no expert regarding the t-rex and having a few rejects by myself but i will try to help
1. Level your game from side to side and get it to 7° degrees, its designed for 7 and small changes can make a big difference. Use a digital leveler and calibrate(!) it, dont use a smartphone.
2. the airball protector is there to keep the ball low enough for the trex mouth, if you remove the washers its too low, and you will get even more rattling balls in the left ramp (I tested this).
3. record a shot in the mouth in slow motion and make sure there is no phyical problem!
4. check if the opto is triggering at the ramp entrance
5. the opened trex`s jaw should kind of touch the ramp as i remember
6. there is a pdf somewhere from stern how to adjust the trex
7. if nothing helps, there is an adjustment where the the shot counts, even if the trex is not eating the ball, so its much less frustrating but you dont have to disable the mech

#7899 1 year ago
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:

yeah strange, my game says 8 (installed/factory default) and I double checked the Code, its on V1.03.0
My first update went wrong so i did a second long update with check and it said it worked.
I think I will update it again.

I tried two more updates and factory resets but it still says EB on 8 DNA combos as (installed/factory).
Anyone knows what could cause this problem?

#7909 1 year ago
Quoted from shaub:

Can't you just do it manually in the adjustments?

yes i can, also the new DJ mixer- and adjustments are there.
I just wondered if my game has some kind of bug. But as you said, its just one adjustment so ill just do it manually and live with it.

4 months later
#10100 8 months ago

Since JP is my favourite game and I have learned most skills on this machine you might check out my latest tutorial too, good stuff.
Credit goes to Escher Lefkoff, I learned the Ski jumps from his JP streams https://www.twitch.tv/steveopub

cheers

#10103 8 months ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

Nice! Hey, where did you get those flipper decals? They look cool.

Here, but the letters fell off right from the start. However it looks cooler without them anyway
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1232-pinball-stuff/03028-jurassic-park-flipper-toppers-pre-order

#10113 8 months ago
Quoted from J-Freeze:

I messaged him before I ordered and he sent them to me without the letters attached, I like them much better that way.

good idea, they are looking great, especially with the complimentary orange rubbers!

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