But now I’m like “dang, I got a deal for only $270 shipping included for the one fro tilt topper” and I also think tilt topper has much better cosmetics displayed.

Ok, so here's the real question for anyone with a stern topper...how does that topper enable the mode? Is there any extra board in the topper or something? or is it just because 'something' is attached 'somewhere' (the cat5 and wires) that enable the mode?

I'm wondering if there's a way to somehow enable this goat mode as a work around without buying the stern topper... let's see the flood of comments and ideas!!

Yes, this is what I’m talking about. I want to retrofit it to my tilt topper! But I do kind of want someone else to figure it out. I don’t know…maybe I’ll splurge $619, figure it out, then spill the beans on how to retrofit on the cheap with parts alone to complete the hookup… but before I do, I’m going to patiently wait a few days to see if anyone already has the topper and want to help some homies out.

Re-he-markable!!!

I would not do the $60 set from pinball life. It’s a good value; but I like the LE upgrade look better.

I started with rectangular. Then realized I needed to upgrade. I also really like the addition of the acrylic rings.

All in youre at :
$100 light kit plus 5.25 plates (speakerlightkits.com)
$22.50 acrylic (speakerlightkits.com)
$30-40 kenwood kfc1366s (Amazon or pinballlife.com)

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Yes - pro and premium are smaller. Cheapest option for circles is the $60 kit from pinball life. It has the adapter plates included and you use your existing speakers. $60 all done.

Or as I noted above…you can actually upgrade to 5.25” speakers and use Doug’s “13” kit at $75 plus $25 for adapters plus $22.50 optional acrylics.

Or you can use one of the two rectangular options from Doug and be done too

I have tried every deep socket set available, and none are deep enough to get down to it at that size! But if you have one…share the specs please. Ratchet wrench is the way to go.

Joe is the man. Check his stuff out here. $27 for the orange set.
https://cfengravingservices.com/products/search?keyword=Jurassic

Amen.

Amen.

Yes. As Pin_Fandango noted; accurate shots required. The thing with this game is sometimes you’re on and this thing shoots and combos like your baby’s buttery butt…smooth. But sometimes you’re just a bit off and this thing those into ball search (almost). Sometimes your $400M in on ball one nailing everything you’ve wanted and then you clunk clunk clunk your way into a $425M game. I mean…at least that’s my experience with this one. Enjoy!

Not true. The color is very important as you have numerous choices on the leds as to what colors you want those leds to be, particularly if you buy a speaker light kit or build one with individually addressable LEDs. The acrylic ring color does matter and is highlighted when the lights are on.

I have a thread out there on how to build your own speaker lights if you don’t want to buy

This…

If anyone wants a tilt topper, let me know. I moved all my sterns to my office and I’m not doing any toppers anymore. I’m thinking $400 includes shipping if interested.

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Topper sold.

I’ve got a Huo loaded pro (armor, art blades, after market shooter) in Grand Rapids. If anyone wants to trade down from a premium or Le and get some cash let me know!

I’ll reply on his behalf. Yes. For me, I was on the hunt for a JP premium to upgrade from pro for over a year and finally had to trade for one a few months ago. Shortly after…they started popping up like zits on a pubescent teens face. Kind of wish I would have seen the saturation coming and just purchased one in the low 8s!! Especially the few that really want to uograde to the 30th now (I mean, it’s basically a $5k upgrade from premium to new 30th at market - that seems crazy to me!!). would have gladly waited a few months and played other games. But trade came up and went through with it. Nonetheless, it’s not really a huge deal. But yeah, I would have waited and jumped on a purchase of a used premium today.

Your dealer lied. Don’t use them again. After buying a few games from JJ at game exchange in the past, he straight up lied to me on the phone in early 2023 about stern pricing when I asked about buying a GZ premium because he got greedy as well. Most dealers saw GZ as the golden goose. He could have just said, “ hey man, demand is just too high on that game. Yes, I could give you the same deal as always,,,but I would rather sell to others willing to pay the higher prices right now”. But he didn’t. He lied on the phone to me about msrp/UMAP/UMRP. I had a deposit with him on a different game at the time. I asked for it back. He declined. When he couldn’t deliver the game in a reasonable time according to his original estimate, I did a charge back and got the deposit back by using protection of thr credit card company. I would have gladly followed through with the purchase AND purchased 2 other games from him if he was just straight up and truthful, but instead purchased elsewhere because he flat out lied and got greedy and didn’t care I had purchased from him before.

Now that you have a choice in who to buy from, remember who treated you right and who didn’t. Game exchange lost my biz forever!!!!!!!!!!!!

And yes, I have no issue calling out JJ when so many on this site are afraid to call out dealers who have done them wrong.

Shane at Maine home rec got my next purchase…

For those generally trying to get to nublar, what’s your strategy? In the past I’ve generally focused on Dino’s to the visitor center first and T. rex modes are last. Often times I don’t get past T. rex multiball as I’m not hitting the truck intentionally or accidentally. And of course playing museum mayhem is pretty rare.

But today I wanted to play museum mayhem more. So I focused on T. rex modes and while in Rex modes I’d play them out fully to max points or try to beat. Of course, I’d also hit the C shot first and intentionally have a paddock going. In the two games I played tomight I was through mayhem on ball one. It surprised me that by the time I got through mayhem I had two control rooms qualified. So I then would play control room modes. I don’t really pay attention to the paddocks.

I was very surprised By the time I secured the control room I was four Dino’s down including two in the middle, as I usually try to stay left or stay right for quickest path to VC.

Ended up draining while trying to catch the last Dino before VC.

Anyway, long story to say that it sure seems a lot easier to “almost” get to nublar by:
1) playing through T. rex modes
2) playing through control modes
3) finishing whatever paddocks left to get to VC

VERSUS starting with Dino’s and trying to get to VC first.

Anyone else have different strategies than playing Dino’s first? As i would suspect most people try to get through the map first like i traditionally have been!