(Topic ID: 248582)

Jurassic Park (Stern 2019 & 30th) Owners Club. Welcome! To Jurassic park.....

By CoolCatPinball

4 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 21,324 posts
  • 1,409 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 minutes ago by BrokenChair
  • Topic is favorited by 766 Pinsiders

You

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

IMG_5096 (resized).jpeg
IMG_1230 (resized).jpeg
IMG_1464 (resized).JPG
IMG_7368-ezgif.com-optimize.gif
IMG_7373 (resized).jpeg
IMG_7372 (resized).jpeg
IMG_7369 (resized).jpeg
pinside.a4cba3d6f022409119bc55bb9a4f9ec272c3d66d (resized).jpg
PXL_20240419_132957235.jpg
PXL_20240419_220243332.jpg
PXL_20240419_132948477.jpg
PXL_20240419_132932956.jpg
IMG_4992 (resized).jpeg
thumbnail_image5 (resized).jpg
thumbnail_image0 (resized).jpg
thumbnail_image1 (resized).jpg

Topic index (key posts)

17 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #326 Rules tips and info on some wizard modes Posted by sk8ball (4 years ago)

Post #365 Printable Instruction cards for the pin Posted by PinballZach (4 years ago)

Post #366 The first Full Unboxing Video Posted by ZMeny (4 years ago)

Post #425 Feature Matrix of Pro vs Premium vs LE Posted by CoolCatPinball (4 years ago)

Post #468 How to qualify control room modes Posted by jonesjb (4 years ago)

Post #2298 Keith Elwin explains JP rules Posted by MRG (4 years ago)

Post #3040 Raptor target not registering or "ghost" registering, possible fix Posted by Jesder (4 years ago)

Post #5270 make the jeep work well Posted by CoolCatPinball (3 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider RetroGamerJP.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

#8122 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

"Get to the Choppa! Part Deux"
Well, I couldn't help myself as the helicopter is just screaming to be lit up inside. My lighting of choice is Comet Matrix and I have tons of extra parts around from mods that I build and sell, so I used some things I had on hand to light the chopper. However, you can order everything you need from Comet or do your own way if you are accustomed to other lighting.
To do this mod the tools you need are a soldering iron (along with knowing how to use it), a nut driver or socket, a Phillips screwdriver, and a drill with a 1/8" bit. As far as the Comet lighting goes, I recommend a frosted LED strip since they diffuse light better than the clear ones. You would need to buy a 4" 10SMD strip, but you are going to cut it down to just 1 SMD. Also, this would come with the male connector that you would desolder from one of the included adapters to use in the wiring of the chopper. You'd probably also want to get a 6" Matrix extension to ensure you had enough wiring.
Begin the installation by lifting the playfield and resting it fully extended on the lockbar receiver. Next remove the screw holding the blades above the chopper, and remember to catch not only the screw and washer above the blades, but the 3 washer assembly below it. Let the rod fall as it will fall out at this point (it will in the next step).
Next, if using a Matrix strip, cut it down to just one SMD and one chip (you must have a pair of the black chip and SMD for a light to work), stick it to the nose of the chopper base as forward as you can leaving enough room for the tab from the top part of the chopper to still sit all the way down (I actually cust a little slit between the two leads on the LED strip for the tab to fit between). Then drill a hole out the towards the back on the hidden side of the base when installed. FYI, you can slide the white Matrix connector off the wires, run the wires through the hole, and then slide the white connector back on (just pay attention to orientation)
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Next you need to remove the right wireframe which is very simple (only two fasteners). Pay attention and note how it slides into the C ramp at the top because you'll need to put it back the same way.
[quoted image]
Remove the screw and washer securing the wireframe just above the helipad.
[quoted image]
Remove the locknut and top washer securing the wireframe to the right sling.
[quoted image]
Now carefully lift the ramp off its mount, rotate it inward, and gently set it on the playfield. Do not tug or pull up on it as it contains a switch that is still wired under the playfield.
[quoted image]
Next remove the fasteners holding the large green plastic in place. There are 3: from there perspective of standing at the side of the pin . . .
The locknut at left.
[quoted image]
The standoff at center to the left of the helipad.
[quoted image]
The standoff at right.
[quoted image]
Now, lift the plastic up and rotate it inward. Please note that the chopper rod will fall into the cabinet at this point unless you reach under the playfield to catch it when lifting the plastic.
Next you will want to disconnect the LED board by unscrewing from top and holding the nut tight with plyers or some other tool. Not how everything is arranged as the dome is also attached by these fasteners.
[quoted image]
Detach the LED board and set the other pieces aside. Turn it over and note the 2 leads and which is + & -.
[quoted image]
Now, having desoldered the male connector and wire from one of the pieces that came with your Comet strip, solder it to the pads on the light board (red is + and black is -)
[quoted image]
Plug your chopper in and test that it lights when the lightboard is on. If not, your polarity is backwards and you'll need to revers black and red wires (even if you have them wired "correctly". Turn pin off and now it's time to reassemble. Screw the light board and dome back onto the plastic as they were originally, and then put the large green plastic in place while running the chopper wire through the same opening as the switch wire.
[quoted image]
Secure the plastic by reattaching the 3 fasteners: the two posts and the locknut. Then reinstall the wireframe by first putting the top end into the mount, then screwing down the bracket above the helipad, then position the end at the sling directly centered above the lane and put the washer and lock nut back on.
[quoted image]
Reinstall your chopper as before, lower playfield, power-up and you should be read to play with a lit chopper cockpit.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

You sir, are killing it with the write ups. Many thanks for the effort, looks fantastic!

#8197 3 years ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

BTW there is no caution tape in the movie which the game is based on so I don’t feel like it adds authenticity-quite the opposite.

Perhaps if there were a little more caution tape in the movie, it would have turned out better for some of those unfortunate park employees...

1 week later
14
#8363 3 years ago

EDIT - I managed to find a few copters on Amazon so if you are interested in getting one of these pre-modded and ready to drop into your machine, send me a PM.

Alternate process for Helicopter mod install (no grinding or sanding)

I got my helicopter in over the weekend and decided to install today. Many thanks to the brave souls before me who originally figured this out and shared with all of us... I wanted to see if I could find a way to install without having to grind away the bottom or deform the top in order for it to fit. Good news is, it can be done quite easily, and without having to take apart the copter. (unless you are trying to also do the cockpit light mod.

Basically with a pair of large needle-nose pliers, I grabbed the original rotor and with a couple of rocks back and forth, you can snap it off leaving a perfect guide hole. I also use the same pliers to snap off the lander gears. The remaining part of the landing gears may fall into the body of copter but they will come out later when you drill the larger holes.

Then on my drill press I used a 5/32" bit to go through the guide hole at top and straight down to create guide hole in bottom. Next, using a stepper bit on drill press I make a 1/2" hole through bottom plastic, this is the size of the shaft in the game you will be sliding copter over.

The trick to this method is to go with a larger hole on the top. Using the same stepper bit, I drill out top hole to a 5/8" hole, this allows for the washers and bearing to sit inside of the copter (instead of above it) and gives us the clearance needed without having to grind off the bottom of the copter.

You can see in the final pictures that the copter sits in perfectly with just enough clearance for the blades to spin and all without grinding away any material. You don't need to do anything to secure the copter, it naturally sits in the perfect spot and doesn't move at all. I also decided to remove the remaining hex posts (since they were only there to hold original helicopter plastic) and just put 6-32 nuts in place to clean that area up. I also did as others have done and placed a small dab of hot glue on the rear propeller to hold it in the perfect position to make sure the main rotor misses it during rotation.

Everything spins and functions as it should and it truly looks like it could have come from the factory this way.
11 (resized).jpg11 (resized).jpg12 (resized).jpg12 (resized).jpg13 (resized).jpg13 (resized).jpg14 (resized).jpg14 (resized).jpg8 (resized).jpg8 (resized).jpg9 (resized).jpg9 (resized).jpg1 (resized).jpg1 (resized).jpg3 (resized).jpg3 (resized).jpg6 (resized).jpg6 (resized).jpg16 (resized).jpg16 (resized).jpg

#8367 3 years ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

and you took off the aluminum long spacers, but does that create a ball trap?

I don't see a ball getting stuck there with the dome and other protrusions, but if it happens, adding the hex spacers back in is an easy fix.

... and yes, the larger whole at top does create an opening on the side but you have to look hard for it when viewing from players perspective.

#8371 3 years ago

The extra material missing from up top is not really noticeable when installed. Personally I just prefer this method vs. Cracking open the copter, having to grind down the bottom and/or hammering down the top for the necessary clearance. Just feels cleaner and less intrusive to me BUT the whole point of sharing is so that people see options and can be comfortable doing, whichever path they choose.

27 (resized).jpg27 (resized).jpg

#8373 3 years ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

And you said that the helicopter just "fits" in place...but what is keeping it from rotating/turning? Did you apply a tiny bit of hot glue so it doesn't move at all?

No glue required, it cannot rotate because the switch for the ramp rests right behind the tail and keeps it from moving. If you try to move by hand it can rotate about 1/8" in either direction but in normal gameplay it does not move at all, even when blades are spinning.

30 (resized).jpg30 (resized).jpg
#8392 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I just finalized my Barbasol flasher cover, and it's ready for purchase: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/106545
I will be making these "on demand" as ordered, so there will be no extended wait and no limit on the quantity I produce. The mod replaces the existing clear dome flasher cover just below the control room, and utilizes the same mount and lighting. I designed it to fit with or without Pinstadium lighting since I have them.
I'll be working on step-by-step instructions for those who purchase the mod, but I would literally rate this about a 2-3 on a 10 point scale of complexity - anybody can easily add it to their JP pin.
[quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image]

Incredible work.

#8453 3 years ago

I just finished up doing the die cast Jeep mod but also decided to mount it opposite of the factory placement. I never liked looking at the back of the truck all the time. Easy install and works perfect.

1B5909DF-1335-494B-B0ED-A1BFACF68C4B (resized).jpeg1B5909DF-1335-494B-B0ED-A1BFACF68C4B (resized).jpeg4949A4E4-5DD9-4784-8923-3F917EE78B97 (resized).jpeg4949A4E4-5DD9-4784-8923-3F917EE78B97 (resized).jpeg
#8456 3 years ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:...but now it's driving in the opposite direction of the arrows.

Yeah, I really don’t think that’s going to make a difference in my already abysmal scoring.

#8482 3 years ago

Can someone explain to me what you are supposed to do during start missile attack?

#8493 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

This?
Smart Missile: When the left inlane is lit for “Smart Missile”, the inlane up-post will hold the ball and call for a shot to the pops standup target. Once the Smart Missile is activated, you will have 3 seconds to choose what you want the Smart Missile to award using the action button to cycle through the awards; the award chosen when the timer goes to 0 will be given for a successful shot to the target, in addition to 10 million (+5m) for each successful Smart Missile launch. The pops target only remains lit for the Smart Missile award on a very short timer, but it is possible to initially miss it and still get a quick successful second shot. There’s even a tiny grace period to collect the award after the “Smart Missile missed!” callout.

Thanks, and what contributes to a successful smart middle hit? Seems every time I’ve done that the missile never hits anything

2 weeks later
#8674 3 years ago
Quoted from sliprose:

To help out your 5 year old, I agree with what everyone is saying with going with 5+ ball games, extended ball saves, and extra balls for high scores. Regarding outlanes, in my experience moving the posts down doesn't seem to do much for this game. I'll probably get flamed for this, but for a 5 year old just starting out and depending on their skill, you might consider putting a rubber band across the right Nedry outlane but leave the left one alone as it has at least one ball save. The left lane will get get some drains after the first save, but your child will at least get used to the concept of outlane drains. As their skill improves, you can remove the rubber band.
After changing settings, the one issue you may have is that the machine is then setup for your 5 year old and not you. What you can do is backup the settings for an adult setting and a kid setting onto a USB drive via the backbox and then load the appropriate version to whomever is playing. A little hassle, but will be better than adjusting every menu setting via the coin door each time you switch players.
Congrats on joining the club!

Good idea, but instead, just make a separate Compact Flash, that way all you have to do is pop either one in before booting up and dont have to go through any install back and forth.

#8751 3 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Finally got around to installing the chopper mod. Spent way more time on it than I thought I would lol. Thanks Mr_Tantrum for the tutorial! My blades aren't spinning as well as they use to and I made sure to install the washer/bearing/washer stack correctly. My initial thought is the the bottom washer is binding on the helicopter itself. Does the whole stack need to spin freely or just the bearing? Any other thoughts?
[quoted image]

I suspect your hole at the top is not large enough and is causing friction/drag on the bearing assembly. In all the copters I have done, it required a hole larger than yours in order for the blades to spin freely.

1 week later
#8914 3 years ago

Evening all - I haven't had a chance to make an official listing yet but I am selling my pristine, low play Jurassic Park Premium if anyone is interested in one and doesn't want to wait for the next batch. I still have the original box and all of the padding so I can fully re-pack and ship if needed.

1 month later
#9837 3 years ago

EDIT: All Modded Copters are sold. Thank you.

Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
$ 45.00
Cabinet - Decals
Inscribed Solutions
 
$ 16.00
$ 6,995.00
Pinball Machine
Pinball Alley
 
$ 32.00
Playfield - Other
Pin Monk
 
From: $ 12.00
Cabinet - Decals
arcade-cabinets.com
 
€ 99.00
Lighting - Under Cabinet
Watssapen shop
 
$ 12,995.00
Pinball Machine
Pinball Alley
 
$ 18.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
 
$ 45.00
Cabinet - Decals
Inscribed Solutions
 
$ 8.00
Cabinet - Other
Pinball Fuzz
 
$ 8.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
 
From: $ 31.50
From: $ 11.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
 
From: $ 17.99
$ 14.95
$ 289.99
Cabinet - Armor And Blades
Maine Home Recreation
 
$ 24.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
 
9,499
Machine - For Sale
Wood Dale, IL
$ 69.99
Cabinet - Decals
Inscribed Solutions
 
12,500
Machine - For Sale
Orlando, FL
9,000 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Aldie, VA
$ 19.50
Cabinet - Other
NO GOUGE PINBALL™
 
From: $ 20.00
Cabinet - Other
Filament Printing
 
From: $ 50.00
Cabinet - Armor And Blades
arcade-cabinets.com
 

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider RetroGamerJP.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park?tu=RetroGamerJP and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.