(Topic ID: 248582)

Jurassic Park (Stern 2019 & 30th) Owners Club. Welcome! To Jurassic park.....

By CoolCatPinball

4 years ago


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  • 1,409 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 hour ago by jackd104
  • Topic is favorited by 766 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

17 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #326 Rules tips and info on some wizard modes Posted by sk8ball (4 years ago)

Post #365 Printable Instruction cards for the pin Posted by PinballZach (4 years ago)

Post #366 The first Full Unboxing Video Posted by ZMeny (4 years ago)

Post #425 Feature Matrix of Pro vs Premium vs LE Posted by CoolCatPinball (4 years ago)

Post #468 How to qualify control room modes Posted by jonesjb (4 years ago)

Post #2298 Keith Elwin explains JP rules Posted by MRG (4 years ago)

Post #3040 Raptor target not registering or "ghost" registering, possible fix Posted by Jesder (4 years ago)

Post #5270 make the jeep work well Posted by CoolCatPinball (3 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#13620 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Necessary? Of course not. However, if you look at any modern aged pin (i.e. DMD era and later) or those before with faster ball play you will see common chewed up areas. Typically these are places where ball come into contact with edges of wood (e.g. saucers, lane eject, scoops, etc.) and/or where consistent impacts are made. A steel ball with momentum is hitting the corners of the wood time after time after time, and the wood will eventually give/deform in those areas.
Might you play your pin hundreds of times and nothing ever happens? Sure. However, I've also heard of new pins with just a few plays showing impact wear and/or even denting/chipping. Remember the playfield is just a piece of laminated wood with hidden weaknesses and flaws.
Cliffy's are insurance/protection against unwanted potential damage, so obviously a personal choice. Do you plan on ever selling this pin? If so, how do you think the value would be diminished with damage that Cliffy's would have protected? Do you plan on keeping your pin forever? How will you ever stop yourself from seeing the damage every time you play that could have been prevented?
Either way, I personally install Cliffy protectors on all of my pins, as I deem the expense worth it for the long-term value of my games.

After years of Cliffy kool-aid, I've become a Mylar convert. When I removed my cliffys, the improvement in play was extremely noticeable.

1. Mylar protects just as well
2, it's easier to install, easy to replace
3. It's almost invisible
4. It won't disrupt the ball path
5. It is way cheaper!

Cliffys are best for covering up existing damage.

The one exception is the Cliffy airball protector for the edge of the Munchkin pf. But the ball never rolls over that one.

#13625 1 year ago

Has anyone powder coated the shooter rod housing with the lighted amber mod?

Looking for any advice on how to remove the wiring. It looks like the tiny led's may be superglued.

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#13627 1 year ago
Quoted from JMCFAN:

Nothing I would mess with.... its hardly noticeable.

I didn't want to powder coat and then regret that the shooter housing doesn't match.

Turns out the little led's were just hot glued in place. I removed the first one without issue. Just scraped off a little of the surface glue, and then it could be easily pushed in and removed.

Unfortunately, I broke the little protruding part off the 2nd one. I can probably just glue it back into place, but curious if anyone knows the part number for this tiny clear plastic housing with the amber led ...

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1 month later
#14053 1 year ago
Quoted from robbie:

Don't you think it would be wise to look for the lost screw first?

From my experience, missing parts (screws etc) will only appear after money is spent on replacements.

The longer you delay the order, the longer it will take to find it.

#14084 1 year ago
Quoted from purbeast:

Lowered flipper power to I believe 225 on the lower 2 - kept the upper default.

Where is the setting to adjust the flipper power?

I can't find it.

#14087 1 year ago
Quoted from Manny65:

It's one of the Feature Adjustments (under Adjust -> Game), from memory it's up in the Feature Adjustment # 3xx range

I recently got my game (used) and just checked and saw I don't have the latest code.

I think that's why I can't see it. I will update and hopefully find the setting.

Edit: Found it! Still need to update though. Thanks for the reply.

1 week later
#14167 1 year ago
Quoted from troon47:

I've just had my game a few weeks and a couple of times I've noticed the gate on the raptor cage only comes down about halfway and then gets stuck. No matter how many times it's hit by any of the players, it just stays there. But after that particular game is over, it goes back up as normal and works ok on the next game. Is this normal, or a glitch? Thanks.

Mine never stops half way. Something is blocking yours underneath somewhere.

1 week later
#14235 1 year ago
Quoted from haiderdj:

Does anyone know the spec on how much power can be drawn from the cabinet node board?
I'm trying to power the Stern shooter rod, leg lights, and lighted flipper buttons from there but can't seem to get them all working.

https://www.pinballlife.com/accessory-power-supply-for-stern-spike-spike-2-system-machines-cabinet-mounting.html

#14323 1 year ago
Quoted from Kaijumke:

I am also willing to sell for $1000 or I’ll trade for a playfield straight up. Haters gonna hate.

Haters or not, it's still a shitty price so what do you expect here?

You can powder coat the entire armor for less than half that price and it'll look a lot better.

#14327 1 year ago
Quoted from mbl1116:

This game is kicking my ass. My best score is 400M and i couldn’t even tell you how it happened. They’re usually around 50-100M.

A quick way to elevate scores is to play T-Rex mb by hitting the red lit Jackpot shots (in specific order, left to right.) It multiplies the value of each subsequent shot.

Also if you hit as many lit shots as possible before starting the mb at the T-Rex left ramp when ready, the initial jp value can be over 3M instead of starting at 500k or less.

And if 2X scoring is going, you can exceed your current average score just from TRex mb.

#14331 1 year ago
Quoted from CashMoney:

They look good and look even better with a nice Dino-skin green powder coat.

Totally Agree

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#14334 1 year ago
Quoted from RussMyers:

OK, now THAT is pretty snazzy.
Care to share who did it, what the specific powder coat type/shade is and what the costs were?
Thanks,
RussMyers

I borrowed the color from another pinsider. The lighter green shade matches the playfield color very well. It was a two coat process, so it was a little more than usual, but less than half of what that guy's asking for his flipper button covers in the post above.

Any local shop should be able to do it if they order the color from Prismatic.

https://www.prismaticpowders.com/shop/powder-coating-creations/274

#14377 1 year ago
Quoted from palmab03:

Interesting, I didn't know that. Mine is aligned so the ball will feed to the left flipper. Great for control, but it does make the side shot much harder to hit than it is on location games I've played. I've been hesitant to adjust it too much for the thoughts of losing control.

I recently adjusted mine and the ability to make the tower shot improved substantially. So worth it.

#14380 1 year ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Is there a reason why you’d not always try to hit the tower shot? While mine flipper sits with the post exposed (aligned as per Keith’s recommendation), I always go for the tower shot … of course I have to occasionally deal with a bricked shot but the only time that post really comes into play for me is when I nail it going for the “O” shot. Just wondering whether there is something I’m missing. Thanks

I always flip the upper right too. You might score something useful. A missed attempted upper flipper shot is about the same as just not flipping it at all. I don't see any real advantage not to try.

I'd rather attempt to nail the tower shot for a controlled feed to the lower left flipper, or you might even loop it back around and try again.

#14424 1 year ago
Quoted from Cheeks:

The jaw was getting wedged open and wouldn't close. I trimmed some material off the "neck" and that fixed the jaw issue. I just don't see how to get any vertical play in the T-rex so that the jaw lowers to the ramp.

Mine also will not touch the ramp. The lower jaw sits a little above the ramp surface when the jaw is lowered, but the ball will still go up into its mouth.

I agree its not the best designed mod because the neck is too wide to fit easily inside the ramp.

Mine was working really well until recently. I've been getting a lot of left ramp rejects lately, but I'm not sure it's the dino mod. I've been reading this thread, and it seems to be an issue affecting a lot of owners.

A lot of advice to check the pitch of the playfield.

#14475 1 year ago
Quoted from Xelz:

A bit of both. It’ll randomly choose to drop the ball on the wire form or just toss the ball somewhere on the playfield.

I don't think it's completely random.

Specific T-Rex modes always go to the ramp (T-Rex mb). Others will toss it (Rampage).

#14542 1 year ago
Quoted from 1956PINHEAD:Pin_Fandango I just wanted to make you (and others) aware that you may start seeing this flipper system installed on games out on location soon, at least in the USA for now. Game location operators have liked what this system has to offer over and above improving player interaction, that's longevity, which for them is a big bonus. Location operators see the potential for less wear and tear, and reduced service intervals. While this system would offer top players the opportunity to enahnce their game play it's more than just appealing to Top Players. To that end I thought I'd expand a bit more;
I’ve been getting a lot of PM inquiries and questions about my flipper system mod, so I thought I’d post this as others may find this helpful.
About a year ago when I was experimenting with different flipper angles on AIQ I started taking a critical look at the components that make up the flipper mechanism. I kept thinking there’s got to be a better way. I became obsessed with wanting to improve what I felt was undoubtedly the most interactive part of playing pinball.
From my perspective some game layouts, ramps, and shot making challenges have evolved to a point where having a more refined/precise flipper system would improve the playability of the game. When you really think about that for a minute I think one could agree.
I’m pretty confident as to why all the game manufacturers keep using these same flipper parts, they’re very low cost, they’ve been the norm for years, and they work OK. As pinball enthusiasts should we just settle for OK? Maybe OK is fine, but I wanted to raise the bar.
My goal was three-fold, design a system that would make it super easy to adjust the flipper angle (from above the playfield), improve the flipper responsiveness/control, and potentially improve the overall ability for the flipper to deliver more energy to the ball.
The logical way to do this IMO was to design a system that utilized materials that transfer energy more efficiently (plastic absorbs energy), incorporate tighter tolerances into the parts to improve shot making accuracy while at the same time recovering lost energy in the mechanism, and lastly make it easy to install.
It took several different iterations to get there, but after seven months I was on track with what's now the production version. If you really want to find out just how much slop is in the factory set up, grab hold of your flipper and rock it around its rotational axis, you'll see and feel it. The number one question everyone has been asking me in PM’s is does this system increase the performance of the flippers, the answer is YES.
This system isn’t just about experienced players either. Everyone who enters into this hobby has to learn the art of ball control, having the ability to easily install a longer flipper bat gives those new players a better opportunity to perhaps shorten the learning curve. I think of the longer flipper bats as being training wheels for pinball! Then on the opposite end is the ability to easily install shortened flipper bats for those players who want a bigger challenge playing the game. The ‘Long and Short’ of it is this system brings it all together.
This mod may not be for everyone, and that’s fine, I’m not trying to convince everyone to ditch their factory flipper set up. But for those players looking for a high-quality product that rewards the player with enhanced playability and opens the door for more options (now and in the future) then this system is for you!
I’ve been playing pinball going on sixty years now, it all started for me at my local bowling alley arcade. A lot has changed in pinball over the years and that’s a good thing, we’ve all benefited from those advancements. Developing this mod is my way of helping to move the hobby and industry forward in an area that in my opinion has been overlooked by the manufacturers for too long. Players now have more options to mod their games, as I see it that’s a good thing.
Happy Flippen!
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1341-precision-pinball-prod/06654-precision-flip-flipper-system

I installed your flipper kit and I think you got a winner. These really should be standard from manufacturers on high end games.

This flipper design is much superior to what we've all gotten used to. It was easier than initially installing the normal flippers. Making minor adjustments is a complete breeze after the shaft is secured below. You can really tweak the most minor change to see how it affects any given shot and it only takes seconds to adjust. The biggest hassle is just removing the glass. Perfect for dialing in that upper flipper on JP.

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#14544 1 year ago
Quoted from DiabloRush:

Did you install the bushings as well?

I used my existing mechanism. Only replaced the flipper bats.

Super easy install. Super easy adjustments afterwards.

#14573 1 year ago

On occasion, a clean shot to the left T-Rex ramp hits an invisible force-field and comes rebounding back down the ramp. There is nothing visible for the ball to make contact.

I assumed it was an airball hitting the front edge of the plastic protector way at the upper back end of the ramp (before the ball would go out of view). I increased the spacer to allow more vertical height in case the ball was flying into that protector. It's still an inconsistent occurrence, but the ball is definitely abruptly hitting something.

Just curious if this has happened to others, and if there is a known resolution.

Full Disclosure: I have the Lior T-Rex installed.

#14606 1 year ago
Quoted from mcvetyty:

See what the ball is doing to make it reject and then come back and ask for suggestions if the fix isn't incredibly obvious (which it likely will be).

The problem is not unique to his game. It is not easy to determine the cause which is why he is here asking for suggestions.

Your advice is to tell him to figure out the cause and come back for suggestions, rather than just getting suggestions now.

My game still does it intermittently too, even with the washer installed by the previous owner. It isn't incredibly obvious why it happens.

pinheadpierre provided some useful info however.

#14687 1 year ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

Though for both, the raptor Pitt is the weakest part of the game.

image (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpeg
2 months later
#14966 1 year ago
Quoted from JustEverett:

But personally I find JP much more enjoyable to shoot.

The code in JP having to advance the paddocks and increase the rescues somehow prevent it from feeling repetitive to me. Add in the challenging mb's, plus the side modes and smart missiles and it just excels from there.

It's such a good game because the rules keep you engaged without any tedious build-up before it gets good.

1 week later
#15031 1 year ago
Quoted from seenev:

I don't think the movie code is better. I switched back to stock because it was confusing. I don't know if it's better now, but the context-specific callouts were replaced with generic movie lines and it made the game incoherent. You're better off with the cheesy animations and voices.

I can see how it could be confusing if you are new to the game.

I was already familiar with the game code when I switched to movie code so the shot objectives still made sense.

The only sacrifice for me with the movie code is losing the callouts that create a sense of urgency while rescuing staff in paddock modes.

Movie code is still is worth that sacrifice though.

2 weeks later
#15221 1 year ago
Quoted from pinheadpierre:

Most difficult shot for me (by far) is the orbit from the upper flipper. Just haven’t been able to get that timing down…

I have problems with the easiest shot - the left Dino ramp. For some reason, it has developed a reject problem.

I've spent hours trying to tweak it. Pitch, flipper strength, flipper angle, etc. It has shown recent improvement, but it used to be an automatic gimme. It's become the achilles heel of the game.

Anyone else develop difficulties with the left ramp and have suggestions on how they made it a no brainer shot again?

#15224 1 year ago
Quoted from pinheadpierre:

The only time I’ve experienced this it came down to operator error. I didn’t need to adjust the game, just my mind

I had considered user error, but quickly dismissed it. Perhaps I should take a closer look.

That shot used to be impossible to miss.

#15232 1 year ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

MXV, anyone?
It’s a secret-skill-shot sequence.
Full plunge to left ramp to right ramp to loop to side ramp. I am yet to do this.

Keep going. The final shot of the sequence is to follow up with the "O" shot to max out the value.

1 month later
#15497 1 year ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

I wonder if swapping in slightly taller spacers would raise the lintel enough to allow even a slightly airborne ball to clear the lintel. Thoughts?

I have tried this, but I still have problems with rejects. After reading your post, I'm going to look at it again.

#15536 1 year ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

I would like to explore a DIY system utilizing a pair of fans, but I haven't mustered the energy to do that yet. I certainly have access to affordable fans of the right size at my neighborhood surplus store, and I could probably fashion simple brackets out of 18-gauge stainless sheet. I could draw the necessary power from the accessory connector in the head. It may be 12V. I'm not sure. I would have to look into it.

A lot of good info on making your own cooling fan kit...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/diy-pinball-flipper-coil-fans#post-6962138

1 month later
#15889 1 year ago
Quoted from DropGems:

May trade my alien sv for jp prem. Love my alien. Anyone have both? Thoughts?

I like JP much more. I had a Heighway Alien for several years. Never missed it after I sold it.

Alien is unique, but the rarity was the reason it lasted as long as it did. Theme is cool, but rules are better with JP.

I have 10x more fun with JP. Challenging game and the rules are fantastic. Prefer it over GZ too.

2 months later
#16237 1 year ago
Quoted from Dalinar:

Is there any top 5/10 lists of mods? I have a premium coming in June and while I have cared very little to mod my godzilla I want to do as much on my JP as it is by far my favorite movie of all time.

I think JP is more fun than GZ. Have both, but play JP way more than GZ.

I've got the Lior aftermarket Dino mod. Looks better than the stock Dino.

Added the Myth flames speaker light kit. Looks great and doesn't take 6 months to arrive like the other guy's.

Also have a shaker motor.

#16239 1 year ago
Quoted from acupunk12:

Is the consensus that premium is the way to go on this one from owners? I love both but the toys are really great on this but I heard that they get old really quickly.

I love the animated Dinosaur and was a "must have" for me. Complements the audio roar really well. Does not get old for me, but not necessary to enjoy the game.

Forgot to mention installing the code with the movie assets is a game changer.

#16245 1 year ago
Quoted from acupunk12:

If I buy a new model with the insider connect can I still install movie code?

I'm not sure, but I think the machine will boot up with the older code if you replace the existing disc with a disc containing the movie code. The IC would not work however.

Someone else will have to confirm.

1 month later
#16329 12 months ago
Quoted from Killermarmot:

I feel like I can nail almost every shot in the game except the main ramp.

I had this exact issue occur, and it crept up slowly, and it took months before I realized it was an issue with the game, and not a problem with my aim.

I tried so many different tweaks, and ultimately a complete flipper rebuild on the right, replacing the coil stop fixed it. The flipper mech looked fine, so it was not obvious.

I also tweaked the ramp entry to ensure a smooth transition to reduce rejects. Took slo-mo video, and even removed and reinstalled the entire Dino ramp. But the flipper mech was the main culprit.

I also installed the precision flipper kit. Not sure that it made a difference, but it didn't hurt.

No guaranty it'll fix it for you, but it helped my game come back to life.

1 month later
#16670 11 months ago
Quoted from AMartin56:

I will say that after a couple of days with my new premium that I'm surprised to say that I have zero interest in trying the movie code. I think the game is just fine as is.

My thoughts exactly. I was very happy with the original code. I mean, it's good, right?

Until I finally got the movie code.

It is substantially better and improves the overall experience. The clips are so well done.

#16816 10 months ago
Quoted from AMartin56:

If the cost of a Premium isn't too big of a concern you can always turn the T Rex off. Personally I find it amusing.

I agree it's worth it.

I think the moving T-Rex is a must- have, especially when it activates in conjuction with an external sub that shakes the room during the roar.

Add in the movie code showing the on- screen T-rex and you've got the trifecta.

2 weeks later
#17006 10 months ago
Quoted from AMartin56:

I've asked Stern for the wiring harness shown in the pic because it's under a lot of mechanical strain with little to no slack at all and will likely break again. I'll see what they say.

The wires will break. It's an issue others have had, including myself.

I just soldered a small piece of extra wire (covered with a heat shrink tube) to extend it for more slack.

It was an easy fix.

#17010 10 months ago
Quoted from NoDisclaimer:

So I ordered a topper last year when they were 600 bucks which I thought was over priced but I did it anyway. Today I get an email that Stern drop shipped my topper for 750. I told my distributor that I didn't want to pay over 600 period. I'm thinking about refusing delivery.

I'll take it if you don't want it.

Who is your distributor?

#17036 10 months ago
Quoted from CletusTheSuprDog:

I love the T-Rex. The movement and the magnetic grab really add something IMO

I couldn't agree more.

The moving dino makes the game more exciting and fun to play.

The static Dino on the pro doesn't alter the rules, but it definitely changes the experience.

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