Ottawa, ON
thinking of picking up a PRO in the near future, does anybody know when is the next run?
(Topic ID: 248582)
Linked Games
Jurassic Park (30th Anniversary LE)
Stern, 2023-
Jurassic Park (Limited Edition)
Stern, 2019
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Jurassic Park (Premium)
Stern, 2019
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Jurassic Park (Pro)
Stern, 2019
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4 months later
Quoted from Morhaus:Deposit on Premium paid. Very excited. Trading DP Pro in to get this...think i'll be okay with it!
I just got DP premium and I can foresee it leaving my house for the same trade!
Quoted from airplanequartet:I’m pretty sure April
I was told premiums and pros in April.
I have not pkayed a premium, is the upgrade worth it? You get a chopper and a moving dino?
Loved the pro but always buy premium but not sure it is worth it in this case
It sounds like both are great options either way.
Wondering if the pro is a bit more flow-y than the premium? Thinking perhaps the ball doesnt get stopped as much?
Quoted from Ponzie:Or you can sell your DP Premium to me when you're ready....
If people start opening up league play up here soon, you're welcome to come flip my JP Premium... I love it.
It can be brutal but it is also just so deep and so rewarding when you have a good game...
We have been getting together to flip now for a while around here on the west end 
, gotta make friends on this side of town! lots of pinheads around my house.
I am itching for a JP!!!
Quoted from WizardsCastle:So aligned with the center of the bat would make it flipped, because I saw this from Keith:
The 'saggy' flippers are aligned for maximum power to side shots and minimum power to the truck. Not all flippers on all games should be in line with the ball guides. Only Steve does that because he likes backhand shots and easy traps. It's your game to align the flippers as you wish but both JP and Maiden uses "flopped" flippers for the side shots on purpose.
could you post a picture of what the flippers should look like.
1 month later
Quoted from bluebomber:Drew and printed my own raptor pit design last night. It’s fun to have an idea, and then make it quick with parts you have on hand. I tried to make it movie accurate, but I took a couple artistic liberties to account for the scale and for FDM 3D printing.
[quoted image]
So cool! A 3d printer is my next toy! Fun stuff
Quoted from wackenhut:Has it really been moved to July?
Quoted from ag83:Thanks! If I pull it out it sticks out like this. Probably some of this is self-inflicted by me trying to fit it where it shouldn’t have gone. But is it supposed to attach to the helipad metal somehow?
[quoted image]
grab a ball and roll it on the lower guide, is it touching the deflector? if not leave it alone, if yes, just bend the tip slightly so it is leaning to the right.
It is there to prevent balls from the shooter catching on the edge
1 week later
Quoted from keeganhayes:Start with 7 and see how it feels. I ended at 6.9. You'll see alot of references in the thread to "Keith said 7" but he recently debunked that on Just Another Pinball podcast. Anywhere from 6.5-7.0 is valid just depending on your setup.
Perfect. It was set up at 6.5 when I picked it up and played it and it felt very floaty to me.
Will try a bit steeper.
Thanks
Quoted from Only_Pinball:How much did it set you back?
Here in Canada these are $13k CAD shipped Nib. Cost me $13.5 shipped.
I hate overpaying but didnt want to wait anymore and since it only has 130 plays I said screw it.
Quoted from Only_Pinball:You didnt do bad at all! They are reselling here for far more above MSRP.
Yeah,
Canadian shenanigans.lol way smaller market here so the demand is somewhat different.
are there any stickies with the correct settings and or adjustments for the truck? mine seems to have a little wiggle on the post up and down, not sure if it should be like that (with a little wiggle up/down like a flipper bat) or should it be tight to the bushing?
I am otherwise ready to wax and play a few games tomorrow.
This game has only 130 plays on it so before it is broken in , I would to address any potential 'usual suspects' to reduce wear around the game.
Is there anything I should do NOW before it is too late and regret not having protected now that is mint? I read somewhere that the helicopter ramp has issues with screws?
That type of thing, specific to this game and not the usual adjustment such as 'reduce the trough power', etc.
FAAA FAAAAA FAAAFAAAAA FARAAARA FARAAAARAFAAAA...
Quoted from Manny65:Well I was going to say reduce the trough power and/or protect the shooter lane ...
On some machines the ball could clip the head of the left tower ramp flap screw, it's not wear issue that you're asking about but rather ensuring your game is more playable. Worth checking the clearance on the heli ramp flap screws as well, but I don't recall posts where they've been an issue - Cliffy made a replacement for both ramp flaps, so people have tended to swap out both.
Check you up-posts are flush to the PF and if you have a LE/Prem your raptor gate that should be checked as well.
The original Pros had artwork under the posts and suffered from pooling, if you have one of these it might be worth checking. Also check the post in front of the upper flipper to ensure it is tight - the first run had shorter posts that came loose, after which Stern increased the post length and put a nylon locking nut on the bottom.
If you have a LE/Prem, post a pic of the left ramp protector on the T-Rex left ramp - Stern did an update to this, so you may or may not have the latest one (it addresses slight airballs being detected by the opto).
Hope this helps
Thank you!
Quoted from chuckwurt:You need that up down play just like flippers so the truck doesn’t bind.
Thanks Chuck
image (resized).jpg*edit: just found the setting!
is there a way to set the T-REX so it always drops the ball on the ramp and not randomly on the PF? Just trying to minimize any potential damage and dimples.
I feel bad for asking these basic questions, if it has been addressed before please just say so and I will try to find it.\
Thank you
Quoted from EaglePin:Yes there is a setting for that. With the setting on it will still drop the ball near the raptor tower in one of the T-Rex modes, but will put it on the wire for the others.
ah! I was wondering why the plastic on the left orbit had a hole in it. I get it now, it is for when it drops the ball there... cool stuff!
I can see why people love this game, such a flow monster! have it set up at 6.9 and it goesssssss....6.5 was VERY floaty, felt like a wide body and sluggish.
I just checked to see if there is an option to only start Trex mode when there is a ball in the Dino's mouth but can't seem to find it? I noticed I was able to start a couple of modes just by bouncing on the TREX mouth. Not sure what is the correct setting here?
Found a lot of TREX adjustments in the menus but these are not very self explanatory and not sure what they do... The settings are near the end of the list.
Quoted from MrMikeman:There's a caveat. T-REX MB (first T-REX mode) will always start on ramp entry. There is no setting to change that. The setting only applies to the subsequent TREX modes.
And yes if your mouth opto is flaky the game will always think the TREX has the ball and will start all modes on ramp entry - like mine is doing right now. The transmitter opto wire was cut by the jaw mech at some point. I repaired it but it's been cut again. I need to look at wire routing when I take it out to repair it again..
Ok will keep an eye on it, I am not sure now as I have only had it for 1 day, lol and played it just this AM a couple of times.
So to recap Mike, you are saying if the Opto is flaky then the next T REX mode after the first MB should only start if it catches the ball... correct?
Quoted from EaglePin:Also, if you haven't found it already, there's a second Jurassic Park club forum. When the game was released a few people though it would be better to start a separate forum for the Premium/LE model. Dumb idea. There's information in both threads that applies to both models.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/173#post-6891808
Thanks, yes I am in it, had found that one first and then this one. I wish it was all in one place...
Quoted from chuckwurt:You’re good. The change is due to the playfield not being perfectly flat. Incline is purely due to taste. I don’t even measure mine. I just put the back legs mostly out and front legs all the way in.
Just like chuckwurt said.
I also came to realize, that in most Sterns Spike II, if you do 14 revolutions on the back levellers, I always end up at 6.9. It has worked in all Sterns I have owned in the last year (more than 10 came and go at some point or another).
I also use a digital level to confirm, I measure by the flippers only as a guide.
Typically, if you prefer to use the level in the game, the bubble slightly over the top line will also indicate you are 6.8-7 degrees. I prefer to just turn the levellers 14 times, and it has saved me tons of time.
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:Ok will keep an eye on it, I am not sure now as I have only had it for 1 day, lol and played it just this AM a couple of times.
So to recap Mike, you are saying if the Opto is flaky then the next T REX mode after the first MB should only start if it catches the ball... correct?Thanks, yes I am in it, had found that one first and then this one. I wish it was all in one place...
looks like I was confused by the first mode. All the modes after the first one are being started by a ball in the mouth only.
Also, what a great game this is! I am glad I waited this long to get it. I can really appreciate it now - after exploring pretty much every other modern Stern-.
Quoted from Manny65:I certainly appreciated the post when you put it up, as like you said the game does seem to play well at (or close to) that pitch, so it definitely helped me set mine up to play well. Thanks
It really is night and day between 6.5 and 7
If feels lifeless at 6.5, plays like a JJP lol it’s true
Quick question:
Any issues with running the flippers at full power?
At full power it is swinging balls like with quite some power.
So far so good but wondering if you guys has lowered the flipper power?
I am only worried that something is going to break.
Particularly the upper flipper flipper seems to be too close to things.
But nothing broke or seems to at default settings… that said my game has less than 200 plays
Quoted from EaglePin:It's your machine so of course you should do whatever you feel is best for it. FWIW I have none of them on mine and after over 14,000 balls played the areas look the same as when I first got the machine.
- Raptor gate and ramp entrances: no protectors on mine and the areas still look like new.
- Upper flipper post: I used blue loctite on the upper flipper post to keep the post tightened so there hasn't been any issue there either.
- Switch slots: On Jurassic Park the ball doesn't drop directly onto the inlane switches so there's really no need for those protectors like there is on POTC where the ball is dropping directly onto the switch cutouts.
- Outhole: I personally don't see any need or reason to protect the outhole and mine doesn't have any wear there either.
- This post shows the only thing I've done to the shooter lane on all my games is this and it's worked great.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/255#post-6688937
Again, this is just my thoughts on it.
nothing broken with flippers at full power? and by that I mean stock settings.
Quoted from EaglePin:Max power setting is 255. I’ve been all over the map on flipper settings on this machine as I tinkered with trying to dial in all the shots though. Not out of concern for air balls or breaking something.
I’ve currently got the lower flippers set at the default 255 for the left and 235 for the right. I have the upper flipper dialed back to 243. That’s where I finally found I liked the power setting for making the shots consistently on my machine. Originally I was dialed back on flipper power but then I started changing pitch and ended up at the current settings.
I’ve never had any problem with airballs on this machine. Only thing that ever broke on mine was the post that guards the upper flipper after about 12,000 balls played and who knows how many direct hits. Was a really easy replacement.
Thank you for that.
What pitch did you end at?
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:I don't disagree that Mylar or clear adhesive vinyl in strategic areas is definitely an option. However, in pins like DE JP where the 3 scoops get eaten alive by the ball (especially the two lower ones), Mylar is not the answer. I have also had issues where I use both. For example, I installed a Cliffy on my AFMr SOL scoop, but was having issues with balls occasionally hanging in the pop areas after adjusting the protector as best as possible. Added a small piece of Mylar to transition from playfield to Cliffy and problem solved.
As a site note, when "covering existing damage" with Cliffy protectors, you must first repair the damage (doesn't have to be visually pleasing since it will be covered). Otherwise, you'll end up with bent and banged up Cliffys that not only look bad but also cause ball obstruction issues.
I did cliffy is my first nib, I quckly learned just like you that mylar is bettee in 95% of the cases.
In my Tspp I might use his ramp protectors but other than that, I prefer mylar in most cases.
Lots of ball traps causes by edge protectors and such.
I recently got a game that had a custom plastic shooter lane protector and really like it.
I often make my own mylar protectors and like you said, cheap and easy to replace.
having a weird ball hang there, it only happened once but one time is enough for me to take a closer look and looks like the right ramp habitrail is slightly lower on the left side.
I figured it is not much although not sure it could be less than 2mm and maybe I can add a washer to the post closer to the back. Pics below of the post I am talking about...
Wondering if anybody else run into this? not wanting to reinvent the wheel and I am not a fan of bending habitrails
IMG_7639 (resized).jpegIMG_7643 (resized).jpegIMG_7644 (resized).jpegI am sure this has been discussed before but I am new here...
Doing a look over so it looks like my upper flipper post has come slightly loose, of course, there is a flipper assy blocking it...
I think part of the problem with these is that the post makes contact with the flipper assy, and the vibration of the assy might be making the post to come loose over time... I think I will slightly trim the trip by 0.5 mm or less to give it a little space and add Loctite...
anything else I should check for while I am at it?
Quoted from EaglePin:I've had a similar issue before on my POTC. Just use your hand if you can get it in there or, if not, turn a pair of pliers sideways to use as a lever to gently nudge up on the habitrail from under last cross support before the end of the trail. Doing it on the cross support will help ensure you won't be bending the end of one lower wire of the habitrial out of alignment from the other.
Just nudge up slightly under that last cross support, hold it for a second, and release, and then test clearance with a ball. Keep doing that until the ball has clearance. It could happen that over time the habitrail returns to it's original position and then you'll just need to nudge it up again. After a time or two it should be trained to stay in the spot you want it though. Shouldn't be too difficult to do.
there seems to be a lot of flex on this particular assy so I will try that as my last option.
I think I will try adding a washer at the post and see how much clearance I gain this way.
I have already removed the ramp off the game, using the opportunity to add a little mylar under the flap (I do this to all my games because I am nut job and dont like the indentation the flap leaves over time) - a bit over the top I know but whatever...
Quoted from EaglePin:Yep that’s what happens at the flipper post. Hits to the post very, very slightly loosen it over time. I wouldn’t trim the flipper post though. When I replaced my post it was really easy to get at. Not sure what benefit you’d get by trimming it.
by trimming 0.5mm off the thread it will prevent from touching the flipper assy underneath. It is marginal but it will allow for a better fit and less vibration transmitted to the post possibly.
Mine is slightly touching it.
I presume the assy has to be removed for adjusting the post? Or were you able to torque down without taking the assy off?
Quoted from EaglePin:Yep, it's really easy to take the assembly off. Just unscrew at all four corners of the mounting bracket and it all separates with the bracket from the playfield as one unit. It was about a 5 minute job on my original flipper post for me to drop the flipper assembly apply blue Loctite, and reinstall the flipper. Same when I had to replace the flipper post.
For the flipper post, it's not so much the vibration from the flipper assembly that's causing it to loosen as it is ball strikes. Think of it as a bunch of ball strikes slightly unscrewing it over time. Sure some hit one side and some hit another but eventually it becomes loose from the ball hits. Mine has always slightly touched it also and there was no problem with either the original one or the replacement post after I applied the blue Loctite.
As per Mike’s request I read 10+ pages of people bitching about the post.
Only things I found are:
Use loctite
Get a replacement post from Stern
What was different on the replacement post?
My game was made Nov 2021 in case that is an important detail… so I presume I dont need a new post?
Quoted from MrMikeman:Not likely. My game is Sept 2019 and I also haven't needed a post. Not everyone had problems. Mine did get loose at first but it's been rock solid with no loctite for 2+ years and 3000+ games played.
Ok good to know.
I will tighten it and ad loctite to it.
Thanks everyone
Quoted from EaglePin:Posts on some early builds were only screwed into a T-nut in the playfield. They didn't go through the playfield and use a nut on the underside to tighten. That led to posts coming loose and causing chipping. So they changed to start using longer posts with a nut when they built them. That's the replacement people were getting. Hasn't been an issue for a long time now though.
Thanks for clarifying that
Quoted from Rat:I have had my JP Prem for about 10 months now and it has definetly made me a better player. My 3 ball default settings high is 1.2bill and I'm hitting the shots I want fairly consistently. (Got the MXV skillshot 2 balls in a row yesterday )
But my progress is slowing and I don't think I will ever see some of the later modes the way I'm going.
I'm considering playing some 5 ball games with slightly easier settings to get further through the game and see what I'm missing.
If I use the menu to backup my settings does that backup both my scores and settings?
So if I backup and then change the settings to easier and get new high scores, later I could revert to the old backup and have my 3 ball high scores back?
Play something else ideallly a different gen, an older Stern if you have it woulr be ideal.
I often take breaks ans then come back to find I am playing a lot better.
I personally create bad habits when playing a game for too long, since I still play quite alright these are hard to catch sometimes but I notice them and cant seem to improve or progress…but changing it up and playing a new game solves that for me.
It is like a reset, it changes the timing of things I guess. Not sure. It certainly helps me.
JP is right now my favourite Elwin pin and also feel i t makes me play better. I had played it before but could not appreciate it very much, but now It really clicked with me, maybe I was intimidated by it I think. It looked super tough to me 1 year ago.
Only had it for 1 week and really loving it, sure, honey moon… but I can tell this is a freaking great machine. Just like I feel when I got Iron Maiden.
Elwin knows what makes pinball fun!
I have to try the the movie code but so far I Am enjoying it stock.
All thwt to say. This is a great game!
Quoted from shaub:I consider it to be one of the best parts about owning and playing your own machines. There's definitely a line between adjusting the game to play properly but "as intended and designed." And then there is adjusting the game to play how you want it to play, including things like adding in larger posts to shrink outlanes or evening adding a center post like in Ghostbusters. The second one is definitely closer to "cheating" than the first one in my opinion. But in reality, pinball is supposed to be fun, and whatever it takes to make the game more fun should be on the table.
Ultimately, most of the things you mentioned are really just dialing the game in as it was designed and intended to play.
Question,
Is the rubber for the helipad ramp supposed to kick the ball off to the left flipper on a failed shot?
That is what mine is doing now.
Seems ok to me but wanted to check before I make adjustments.
Quoted from MrMikeman:That's exactly what it's supposed to do. Yes a fluke can occasionally happen and it drains STDM. It's pinball. There is some randomness involved. It's your game however and if you want to somehow adjust it so it drops it to the right flipper then do what feels right, regardless of the design intention. It's your game. Enjoy it how you want it.
Folks that demand perfect replication of behavior every time should stick to virtual pinball
And before you ask, yes it's normal that the one-way gate sometimes let's a ball out of the pop area. Usually STDM. It happens occasionally and the designer acknowledged it. I'll let you search the hundreds of pages on both threads to find exactly when/where he said that. It's there somewhere.
I friggin' love this game. the moving TREX and the premium stuff was worth it - first time for me I feel this way about a premium game as I have always been disappointed with most premiums. This one is awesome.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:The lighting is most definitely warm white on the game from the factory.
all other Sterns are soft white so most likely people are changing it out to white.
I think the warm color goes well wth the jungle theme and I find cool white to not really fit well, I like it how it is from the factory.
Quoted from Pstine:My upper flipper post broke tonight. Snapped clean in half in the middle of a game. I was wondering how hard it would be to get that flipper assy off. Thanks for the post on removing it, Eagle!. I will sleep easier while I wait for replacement part to arrive.
My Pro model is about 18 months old and these posts all come loose. I've been reluctant to try locktite so I just tighten them every hundred games or so.
Now I'm wondering if my flipper power is too high. I never adjusted it from factory setting, but a broken post suggests to me that maybe a little less power might be a good idea.
Anyway, again, thanks for the info on taking the flipper assembly off.
Cheers!
I just re tighten the post adter removing the flipper assy.
Blue loctite applied and left to cure for 24 hours. Looks solid.
While I was at it also replaced the post nut with a new for good measure so it had a better bite (the nuts loses some grip after they are removed, it is just the nature of the nylon as it deforms I guess)
Let’s see how long it last.
Removing the assy is very easy. 8 1/4” self tapping screws and the flipper post.
You will need a 5/32 allen to remove the post. Get a long handle one to retighten it. When retighten just go use grip torque to tighten, do not over leverage or you wull deform the arm where the post attaches. If it happens get a new one it will make installation in the future a lot easier, once they deform they need a lot more torque and they twist (very annoying).
For the post in question…Get yourself a long socket so you can hold the post from the top side while you tighten from underneath or the post will otherwise slip.
I have had great results with loctite before and it is also not permanent. Blue loctite will break off using tool, easy.Especially on an assembly like this where you can hold with a socket from above, will make for an eassy removal.
It gets a little tricky when it is on a Phillips screws. In those cases pre heating the area helps loosen it up and it comes off easily too.
Quoted from BubbaPin:So. New owner here. I got some questions. Yes I've been reading through the thread but haven't found anything yet.
Does this game sometimes feel like a clunkfest?
My splitter shot: alot of time when you hit it, it goes through the spinner, then hits the ball guide in the back, stops and goes back towards the left and falls to the pops and back to the upper right flipper. I feel like if you hit the spinner, majority of the time it should ride the ball guide all around the right to the upper flipper instead of falling in the pops. Which is correct.
Left orbit: rejects prolly about 75 percent of the time, hit the shot, ball hits ball guide hard loses momentum, comes out the left orbit instead of making the orbit back to the upper right flipper. Is this normal?
Left tower ramp shot: ball gets shot in here, clunk clunk on ball guide, loses momentum, falls down to lower flippers. Normal?
Left ramp t Rex: when I first got this game this shot seemed pretty easy. The left screw at the enterence of the ramp, seemed higher than the right, like it wasn't tightened, so I tightened it. Now the ramp gets rejects some of the time, but I do assume this is normal.
If anyone has any words of wisdom for dialing this puppy in please let me know
So…. Who is gonna tell him. Lol
Kidding.
All normal. This games really requires accurate shots.
For the tower make sure your upper flipper power is set to 255 or the wont be enough juice to make it consistenly up the ramp u less the ball come from the orbit with speed.
All the other shots are like this when you get a poor placed shot.
The spinner need to be shots earlier on the left side of the guide or it chokes up on the exit for me at least, I wish it would be easier or smoother but it is not too bad.
Edit: maybe it can be adjusted? I have not toyed with this much as it seems ok to me.
Enjoy the game it is awesome. For me it is the best Stern made yet including Gz.
Well I had a little time to play and see if I could improve the game shootability and started with the easiest…
I quixkly realized I was at 7.2/3 at the top, but about 6.8 by the flippers which is where I had originally used for the measurement.
So to find a baseline, what I did instead this time around was centering the bubble, I then look for 6.5d degrees on the playfield with the bubble centered… from the middle and up I qm at 6.5 but middle down it starts to taper off.
Turns out with the bubble centered I am at 6.1/2at the flippers but 6.5 at the newton ball.
So I dialed in for 7 degrees at the newton and the speed is good but most importantly the tower shot is much repeteable now.
So I am sticking with it.
Has anybodu figured why is the raptor gate not coming down fully. I was 2 mm away from flush and it was enough to block balls.
A quick setup menu in/out fixed it without changing anything…
Quoted from Riefepeters:Yes. As Pin_Fandango noted; accurate shots required. The thing with this game is sometimes you’re on and this thing shoots and combos like your baby’s buttery butt…smooth. But sometimes you’re just a bit off and this thing those into ball search (almost). Sometimes your $400M in on ball one nailing everything you’ve wanted and then you clunk clunk clunk your way into a $425M game. I mean…at least that’s my experience with this one. Enjoy!
Haha yes feel ya brother. That is it.
Quoted from Sleal16:Been covered a few times in the thread. Did a quick search and found this for you ( =P )
Haha thanks!
Yeah but it was not that.
I am referring at either code or switch related issue.
I had weird things happen to this game, certain parts randomly stop working, right bow the upper left corner of my pf has some switches not working:
Right ramp, right orbit enter and exit.
Earlier the raptor cage stopped working but restarting fixed it, and yesterday the trex stopped working and restarted fixed it.
Did not pay much attention to it but now the switches will not work…
I am still diagnosing things: cn12 node 9?
I
Quoted from Sleal16:Yikes thats a large array of stuff. Overall node 9 board issue? since its also driving the data from node 8 that passes on those switches
looks like it, but it is intermittent so I am guessing it is either a code issue or a loose cable. I reset the ethernet cables and power on/off and started working again.
I will reflash the card in case it was an incremental update issue, the card is market as 1.04 but it was running 1.05 so it was most likely updated incrementally.
wish me luck, I never had a node issue before so I have no clue what are the behaviours these tend to show before they go KAPUT.
If anybody else has any tips on what to check let me know....
Sleal16 a quick search did not bring anuything up, lol.
Update: broken off at the solder joint ground wire by the upper flipper EOS was causing the issue.
Thanks
Have these guys coming loose after being tighten down…
I had put loctite on the nut but the leveler came loose anyways while the nut was attached to it in place lol…
Obvious reasoning is to apply loctite at the bracket rather than the nut?
Only asking because I dont want to make my life miserable after lol, also want to do it right…
Anyway, what is your preferree way of loctite-ing these
image (resized).jpg
Quoted from NPO:I'd take it out, put a hexnut on the threads that are on the inside of the bracket, adjust the height of the rubber stopper until when the post is dropped it is flush with the playfiel, then crank the hexnut down night and snug.
Yeah that is probably the best.
I went with the original installation hex nut on the outside threads.
I am not sure there is enough space for the nut to be on the inside but will try it next time.
Good idea!
Quoted from Manny65:Yes, then your locking nut wasn't "locking" the stopper against the threaded bracket - I noticed when adjusting mine that other than hold the rubber stopper from turning (which is not ideal) you can't get a good lock with the locking nut. That said mine hasn't come undone and I haven't had to resort to loctite. It'd be much better if there was a slot in the bottom of the thread shaft to hold it from turning with a screwdriver while jamming the locking nut against the threaded bracket.
Yeah it is weird contraption that is for sure.
I added loctite, If it wver needs removal it will need a little love and a jam nut but it wont be for many many many many years!
Blue loctite for the win
Quoted from NPO:To be clear, I mean put a hexnut on this area of the threads in the photo where the red arrow is pointing:
[quoted image]
Yes. lol.
I am ofended now that you felt you had to do that to show me Lolol
Quoted from Markharris2000:One word of caution: it is very likely that swapping the two wires at the two switches (#37 & #38) pictured will yield the correct playing results, BUT by simply doing so, you may actually end up using the wrong wire colors for each switch, which would make subsequent servicing needs more difficult. The best way to fix this issue is to make sure that the light-green with grey tracer is in fact connect to CN11 pin 2, and that it runs all the way to the switch for the Control Room target (#37). Do the same for CN11-Pin 3, making sure that the light green (no tracer) runs from that Pin 3 to the Pit Top switch (#38). In this way, the manual will match your playfield, making the machine easier to troubleshoot for subsequent owners.
this ^
Also my OCD would not let me do it any other way.
I think you are on track with the previous advice given and I would like to add the following that might give you a better understanding of how to trouble shoot switches, which will come in handy while you are looking at this.
I wish Stern included this manual with the machine but they don't. It is weird that they don't especially in today's market when it is mostly home buyers that buy these things.
They did a really good job at explaining the Spike platform (I am a bit of a nerd and enjoy reading this stuff).
https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/SPIKE-System-Manual.pdf
Page 37 and around there is a good start.
Also I would recommend you buy yourself cable, soldering gun, solder and a digital multi meter. You might not use it now but you will at some point.
This job might seem daunting at first (it was for me when I started) but once you take the first step that is it.
I was looking at Spike II switches for the first time yesterday actually (had not had an issue before) fixing my own switch issue, and although I can't confirm, because I did not have to replace cables, I believe the cable from the connector to the switch is directly connected meaning it is not daisy chained like the ground cable.
If that is the case, you can easily run a new cable if you had to but this might be too complicated just yet.
If the cables are inverted at the connector, a 0.100 molex tool, like this one but not this one (sorry could not find the right link but wanted to show you anyways, this one is for .156 connectors and you should buy it for the other connectors in that size should you ever need it).
With this tool you can easily take the terminals out and place them in the right place if needed.
https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/molex/0011030016/228686
Good luck
Quoted from purbeast:You can't just pull the wires out.
You see those little rectangle holes on the connector where you can see some silver?
There is a little tab that is sticking out that is making it so you can't pull the wire out and thus, holds it in place. The silver you see is part of the pin crimped onto the wire.
You can use a small flat screw driver to press the tab down and pull the wire/pin out of the connector.
Once you get it out you may have to pull it out a little bit with your fingernail or a screw driver, so that when you push it back into the right spot, it "clicks" and stays in there and won't just slide right back out.
Or buy the tool I posted earlier and do it properly without damaging the molex connector and terminal.
Come on people. Spent 10g on a pinball machine and we can’t spend $10 on a tool…
Geee
Quoted from shaub:Carefully pushing the retaining tab down with a tiny screwdriver vs. spending any amount of money for a tool that will slightly push the retaining tab down seems like a clear choice in my opinion.
ymmv, never had good results or results to my standards at least unless I used that little tool.
Quoted from purbeast:I've been popping those pins out a lot on all of my arcade games for years with a small screw driver and never once had an issue. There is no reason to have a special tool for those when you can do it perfectly fine with a screw driver.
Now, those round molex plugs, THOSE you want the special tool for. The pins for those need to be pushed down between the pin and the plastic housing. There is no exposed tab to push down outside the connector like there are these longer ones that have square holes/pins.
You're going to ruin your connector and/or the pins trying to get those out without the proper tool. Ask me how I know lol.
Same principle, the tool isnt to push the pin down like you are suggesting it is for the pin to slide over and under the connector.
You do not need to “use your nails” to bring the tab up if done correctly.
It is just a little detail that just add a little touch, it does a pro job and as it was intended by the engineers that designed the molex system. Which was designed to be used in machinery and equipment way more relevant than a pinball, therefore, absolute reliability and consistency is required.
Maybe not so important for our use but what gives… I prefer doing it this way.
Quoted from JMCFAN:The link you posted shows that tool at $32....before shipping...?
It was just an example. Use other vendors.
That one is also the wrong size.
Link was used for demonstration.
Quoted from mbott1701:I added some extra green leds to the trees on my Tilt topper.[quoted image]
Cool translite!
Quoted from KimCHilla:Thanks to everybody for the help.
The fix was in the end easy but I learned a lot on the way . Just had to change the cables on the molex connector. Screwdriver did the job very well.
I noticed that my trex somtimes loses the ball, altough I have set the adjustment to:
"T-REX THROW BALL ENABLED" - NO
Did someone had to deal with similar issues?
are the settings STOCK or has someone changed them?
Go into the magnet power setting and see if it is set for FACTORY settings.
Quoted from Seirif:Anyone know what has come loose here in TRex's mouth and what to do about it?
Edit: It was just the coil wrapper/sticker.
[quoted image]
Trex bubble gum wrapper
Hello JP owners.
Loving this game! It is currently my #1 pin.
Question:
Anything I can do to alleviate the air balls off the upper flipper/supply drop combo?
They wont happen every time but they do happen often enough, more frequently than I like. Last one flew off all the way into the pop bumpers. Quite a stunt.
Quoted from Manny65:Angle the target to face the PF, put a bit thicker foam behind the target, or reduce the flipper power
Will try the first two, thanks for the suggestions.
Reducing flipper power seems to impact my ability to make the tower shot.
Do you have it at factory setting/ power?
Quoted from Grayont:When super spinner is active, it will also multiply the spinner by your current bonus X value. And Dilophosaurus adds 2x to the multiplier. So You must have had a pretty high bonus X to get it that high! Or 2x PF may have been running and you had just 2x bonus. Cause super spinner always adds +1x and then Dilophosaurus adds +2x and then a 2x bonus multiplier would add another +2x, making a 5x total. THen double PF would effectively make that 10x!!
Ohhhh no the math!!! Lol
I dont understand the lights at the spinner can anybody explain what each do, there are 4 lights in a row… do these change the value of that feature, for wxample, if the trex is lit for the spinner by spinning I am making the trex shots more valuable? If so, what trex or what mode?
Quoted from fooflighter:From tiltforums:
http://tiltforums.com/t/stern-jurassic-park-rulesheet/5644#heading--spinner
Shoot the four ramps to increase the spinner value from a base of 30k per spin. Each shot adds the following amount to the spinner:
T-Rex: 15K
Helipad: 30K
Pteranadon: 50K
Raptor Tower: 100K
Thus when the whole spinner is lit, you will get 225k/spin. Shoot the spinner to collect the current value. After one shot, the value resets (similar to Nine Ball).
Thanks!!!
Raptor gate question:
In my game, it sometimes randonly lowers half way upon start up (before starting a game).
I know it is normally checking the position normally itseems as if its going through this check-up but it just quits half way because I checked the roll over switches and the mech and it is all adjusted well. Nothing seems loose and it works well otherwise when it is set up well during start up.
At first I thought it was me turning the game off too soon and leaving the gate half way down but that it is not the case, when this happened last the gate was fully up, game booted up gave power to the nodes, started lowering the gate and gave up half way. No roll overs were activated underneath - I checked immediately -
By going into test mode it cannot be replicated and the gate functions perfectly.
I have tried searching the forum for previous threads and nothing popped up.
Any tips as to why is the gate lowering half way during start up/boot up? Code issue?
I flashed the card with the game image just to make sure the issue persists.
Anybody experiencing this in their game?
Quoted from Markharris2000:There are two microswitches on the assembly. (The switches are shown as two of Part #4 on page 48). Check to make sure those are both in place and working to sense the gate's position. I think they show up in the switch matrix as #44 and #45. One of them senses when the gate is UP and the other when it is DOWN. The motor turns the crack to raise the gate until the switches senses it in the right up position. And then the motor can sense the gate in the down position. Two possibilities; 1) one of those switches is not working, or 2) that the crack (Part #8 in the diagram) is loose or not in the right position on the motor shaft. There is a set screw that may have come loose or adjusted wrong.
Yup, 44 and 45 are good. Everything works. Everything is adjusted well.
It is hard to see what is happening as this inly happens during start up. Gate works well once it is reset via menu as no NoSkills mentioned.
I will double check the up switches again but there is nothing noticeable. The gate works perfeftly after it is reset.
Quoted from NoSkills:April 2021
mine in Nov 2021, was just asking in case maybe they got a batch of parts slightly out of spec but it would be pretty odd.
I will re-inspect the mechanism later today.
Quoted from ZoraShinoda:Here is the issue I have, sounds similar
Issue I have intermittently.
Turn on the game
Start a game
Raptor gate is up as expected.
Hit the gate with a ball, gate goes down, however the lights inside the pen are not lit up.
Shooting the targets inside the pen doesn't advance the Raptor progress and Raptor Multiball cannot be started.
If I hold down start and left flipper to end the game then start a new one the issue is gone.
It only happens on the first game after power up and only happens intermittently.
Bought my Game NIB a year ago, May 2021 build date.
Only recent change was I installed IC and the associated code update around a month ago.
MrMikeman and EaglePin may be on to something around code issue, maybe something in the latest code messed with our raptor gates.
I had that happened once too.... Also, one time the TREX was deactivated too.
Restarting solving all the issues.
I have flashed the card with the code image, as it was happening when I just got the game.
The pen and the trex have been working fine since but the gate stays HALF way often during start up.
I checked the gate and there is nothing wrong, all rollovers are perfectly fine.
I guess it makes sense and this is probably a bug that has been introduced during the introduction of the connectivity package...
How can a bug be reported to Stern?
Quoted from MrMikeman:I believe this is the same issue. I also get this occasionally.
It's like it tests the gate for not enough time and then disables it for failing the test. Whether the gate is up or halfway it's the same issue. raptor pit does not register any hits or targets until the issue is reset.
yup that is it. Ok then, it is officially a code issue/bug.
I think it would need to be reported so they can fix it. It probably has to do on how quickly the Stern Insider is powered up and it is probably taking priority over the original start up. Sound like a small bug, something is timing out sooner than it should.
Quoted from Manny65:Coop and team modes would be great (even Keith posted/hinted about it but that was some time ago now). At this stage we can always dream
I think it will be the future of insider connect it they want it to really elevate the system, it is otherwise just a silly gimmick to collect achievements as is right now.
Quoted from ZoraShinoda:I think you guys jinxed me, today I got the issue where the gate stopped halfway up at the start of the first game after power up.
[quoted image]
that is it. 100% a code issue.
I am going to send an email to Stern today but I am not sure where to report bugs. Is it the service@ they use for everything else?
I have been doing the effort to just post here and ignore the other thread.
Anyway... welcome to the club. This is a fantastic pinball machine. Enjoy it!
Quoted from joecitizen:Anyone have a good treatment for a stubborn up-post assembly that likes to get stuck in the up position? My control room post gets stuck like this; for awhile just hitting the flippers will drop it but eventually even that will no longer work. Had to take the glass off during a very good ball last night
I've tried tweaking it and adding a tiny bit of lubrication before, but it eventually starts happening again.
The post should have a sleeve that keeps it centered in the hole.
Does it?
I had this issue with a Stranger Things, the post was just free in there and would eventually rub against the pf locking it up.
The proper sleeve will keep the post centered. The manual should have the part numbers you need.
Quoted from Markharris2000:The mounting screws for the post assembly should give you some positioning play. You should be able to eyeball it centered in the hole. From the underside of the playfield, loosen the wood screws that attach the post assembly slightly so you can move the bracket with some pressure by hand. Try to get it centered in the hole through the playfield, then tighten it down again.
If that fails, and due to its position close to the edge of the playfield, previous work under the playfield may have bent the bracket slightly creating a misalignment which is more than the mounting positioning play can fix. Take a look at the bracket and you may need to bend it back to original shape, or order a new one.
My jp has sleeves at all the posts to prevent all these issues.
I presume earlier runs had the same posts used in Stranger Things, and those require you to center to post with the Pf/hole. Very frustrating exercise, specially if the bracket was not installed right during assembly. Just 1 or 2mm by either side and you are chasi by your tail.
It is an absolute nightmare because you now depend on too many variables, bracket positioning/installation and post dimensions/defects. The posts are not perfectly straight and as they turn on their axis it wil eventually catch the pf.
A proper sleeved part solves all these issues, as it will automatically center the post and force it to the right position, which is acceptable in the pinball world of tolerances or lack thereof
Quoted from JMCFAN:I have put Cliffys on all 3 of my sterns... not sure necessary..... cheap insurance.....
I have tried cliffy on games before. I dont anymore unless it is needed for a scoop.
I have the plastic protector on the inlane and I think it is the best out of every other solution out there... I have it because it came with my game so it was a surprise as I was a bit reluctant at first....Way better than cliffy. My second choice would be mylar. For games I will keep I will continue to get these plastic protectors. It works really well, mylar does as well but these plastic protector are better.
https://cointaker.com/products/pinball-shooter-lane-protector
Quoted from chuckwurt:I only tried one of those and it broke into pieces after a bunch of plays. But a fairly item to replace.
oh yeah? mine seems to be holding up great. I do not know if that is the exact one I have, the previous owner had put it in in this case, but seems to be working really well and I am picky.
So far so good. I will reach out to the previous owner and ask which one did he get.
Quoted from NoSkills:Is the right ramp stuck down beneath the entrance? I'm replacing all the rubbers and the one beneath the right ramp is the only one I can't figure out how to get to. I've undone everything holding the spiral wireform down but cant work out whats holding the ramp on or how to get to that damn last rubber! Can anyone help. Thanks[quoted image][quoted image]
There are 2 and only 2 nuts holding the ramp down, they are under the pf by the flap (on tbe top of the pf).Do not force anything until you undo these.
Quoted from Markharris2000:If you can’t find the screw, it’s probably a 6-32 x 5/16 with a #6 washer
yup either 6 or 8-32, better to just order a bunch as these come un handy for when they go 'missing'.
I always have all sizes at hand!
I went full circle by playing jp early and not liking it, fast forward my skills are better and I consider it one of the best shooting pinball machines made yet.
You will most likely not appreciate Jp if you are a novice or have little experience playing.
Learning to drive on a ferrari wont make you a good driver nor appreciate the ferrari as you have nothing to compare it to.
You gotta drive a few turds first for a while to know what makes a good car.
lol enjoy!
Quoted from Markharris2000:I happen to have both machines side by side. The POTC is my machine when I don’t want to think about rules. It’s an obvious shooter and I feel successful nearly every game. The JP-premium machine is much more of a mental commitment. I have to think about every shot, and the sequence of what I have done previously. My game “success” rate for JP is much lower. My third machine is GOTG which feels somewhere in between. Not as deep, a bit of strategy, but just a fun shooter.
I enjoy Gotg too. Just a fun shooter
Quoted from purbeast:Just curious what your guys most satisfying hits in this game are.
My #1 is definitely the smart missle. Oh that feels so good when you nail it and the sound effects that follow.
I think my second favorite one may be the control room shot when going for a control room mode. It's like I hold my breathe and then when it hits it and stays up there, I can breathe a sigh of relief.
But so many of the other shots just are so satisfying in this game. The right orbit is up there too, when I am actually intentionally trying to hit it and do hit it.
Right orbit is so smooooooth. Lol
Left orbit is good but such a random shot that hitting it is the opposite of a feel good.
Anything + Tower combo, just so cool.
This game is cool!!!
The tower and the rigth orbit are so tough! I have not figured out a consistent way to get the tower every time. Any pointers?
Ledt orbit is mostly a lucky shot and the right is quite a tough shot but OH so buttery smooth when you nail it.
This game is loaded with Kinetic Satisfaction like no other Elwin.
1- JP
2- Imdm
3- GZ (great shooting but not a whole or satisfying shots? I cant tell what is missing.
I like the code is GZ more than JP, It is just more off the bat fun and chaotic whereas JP is more strategic.
Both awesome games.
Aiq is maybe Elwin’s worst, great shooter with awful callouts and ridiculous rules to remwmbwr or comprehend.
Rant over
Quoted from PtownPin:Great comments....I'm curious why 7 degrees is the magic number? I say that because I just picked mine up last week, and from habit just set the game to 6.5 degrees at the flippers
I found mine slow and floaty at 6.5
Quoted from Manny65:There's been reports of this by others over the last couple of months, but I've not seen a fix (there has been speculation that the issue is a bug in the s/w). My suggestion would be to place a support call with Stern - the more people let them know of the issue the more likely it'll get addressed
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/249#post-6647415
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/277#post-6932507
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/277#post-6933480
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/277#post-6933527
I still have this happen occasionally. It is fixed by going into the menu and resetting the game by using the test function. Once set up it won't fail again until you turn off the game and you MIGHT have to do it again. IT happens randomly so there is no way to replicate it.
I have reported the bug to Stern but a one off report will not be enough for Stern to pay a developer to open up the code and work on it, It needs to be reported by ALL owners who experience this and they might look into it.
The way to report the bug is by sending an email but I can't find the email address I sent it to. EDIT: @noskill beat me to it! thanks
Quoted from troon47:Update: The raptor gate is sticking at least 75% of the time now, both at the beginning and middle of games. I reported it to Stern but haven't heard anything back. Major disappointment to wait a year for a game and then have an apparent software glitch that shuts down a good portion of the game and which they won't even address.
The soft glitch does not affect the gate mid game. It never has in mine.
Have you checked the assy and the switches?
Quoted from mbl1116:Noticed some dimpling on my machine down by the map above the flippers…nothing life altering but still surprising on a brand new game with around 30 plays. Should i be bringing this up with the distro or just normal stuff?
The game is ruined. I’ll give you 5k for your defective machine.
Normal, play it more and the dimples disappear.
Quoted from chuckwurt:Can a ball even fit through there? Haha
Lol
1 week later
Quoted from Averhoeven:Yeah, I've tightened and adjusted it a few times now and it always seems to drift over a couple months. Don't really want to put loctite or anything there though
a hair dryer will break down blue loctite very quickly if you ever need to simplify the removal of it.
A counter nut/jam nut is the next step if that fails.
Loctite is the only way to go around this. The machine should have come with it from factory but some of these assys did not have it. Once adjusted, you will never touch this again, likely, for the next 30 years.
Quoted from etien:Hello, I put a deposit for a JP more than one year ago to a reseller in France. I was wondering if it was a wasted effort and should ask for a refund by now or if Stern will ever do a new batch of this nice pinball and I should just be patient.
most likely next year! buy something else in the meantime.
Quoted from Manny65:The mech already has a lock nut (what you refer to as a counter or jam nut), as the collar in the bracket is threaded. To effectively jam/lock them together you do need to hold the rubber stopper from turning while tightening it up. Check out the pic in https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/181#post-6068332
not exactly, you can use a jam nut ( a combination of 2 nuts blocking each other) to pull the assy up on the thread and breaking the lock tite. I was not referring to the nut included in the assy, which is a KEP either 6 or 8-32.
Quoted from PinballHaven:Absolutely! it's easy at 7.0 which is Elwin's recommended pitch is my understanding on all games you listed. You'll get used to it, you actually have more control at that pitch although it seems counter-intuitive.
6.8 did the trick for me. Plays fast!
Quoted from EaglePin:Ski pass on yours at 6.8? I think I’m slightly lower at 6.7 and it’s pretty close but not quite.
I am 6.8 by the truck and 6.6 by the flippers, my pf isn’t exactly flat it seems.
Yes ski pass all day!
Quoted from Rat:I really like the look of these flippers and the no play bushings. But what I would really like to see is a way to tighten the flipper arm to the mech that doesn't require me to apply so much force to the bolt and mech that it feels at risk of breaking. (Also at risk of breaking my knuckles when the allen key slips)
This^^^
It is the absolute worst part of any flipper job.
If they come up with a better lock I would be all over it
Quoted from crwjumper:After further play I’d like to revise my review of Precision Pinball’s Aluminium flippers. I originally said that they play just like stock flippers. But after several more games I have realized that they don’t. They have a much more solid feel than the stock plastic flippers. When doing a dead catch or letting the ball just bounce off of the flipper instead of flipping, they are a bit more dense and don’t flex like stock plastic flippers and therefore more predictable.
I’m truly looking forward to receiving and installing the aluminum bushings that go with these. I’m hoping that the “slop” introduced by the plastic bushings will be reduced. I’m finding that these flippers are making it a bit easier to aim more precisely. At first I was a bit hesitant to spend around $100 on a set of flippers, but after thinking about it I have realized that I will spend that much or more on a pretty mod to make my game look cooler without thinking about the cost. Spending this much and getting more precision when shooting as well as better ball handling is a no-brainier for me now. I’ve ordered these for all of my games.
Although I agree with the above, it is just not practical for a competitor to upgrade, as all games found on location will have normal flippers.
This might work for some that enjoy this level of tuning in their own games.
Top players have not needed metal flippers and they will most likely never will.
Quoted from Travahontas:I love this powdercoat option on the premium as well: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/powder-coating-services-offered/page/61#post-6872261[quoted image]
this looks a lot better than the green in my opinion. I usually dislike most powder coating jobs but this one looks great.
Quoted from EaglePin:Had a shot register in the Control Room mode System Boot that I hadn't noticed before. I hit left ramp and then the amber target in the pops and it awarded a system boot combo for 15M. Hadn't realized the amber target was available as part of the mode before.
That is cool!
What power do you guys have the slings at?
I seemed to be very good at nailing the left orbit and the ball flies out to the sling soooo fast that it gets catapulted by the left sling and often sent over the right sling, hitting the cab to then fall into the outlane…
Granted it happens whenever I am having an awesome game lol and even though it maybe happened 4 times in 600 games, I am wondering if there is anything I can do other than maybe lowering the left sling power…
Another question unrelated to the topper fight, lol...
what is the guide next to this target (sorry it is really hard to get a good photo of this) supposed to look like. The upper portion of the fork in mine seems to be leaning slightly towards the plastic, wondering if it should be perfectly matching the bottom section of the fork (mine is not), just slightly but it is off.
In the second photo you can see how it is hidden under the plastic rather than being perfectly under it. I think this might be causing some air balls (not a lot really) but I like to have everything dialed in as it should so wanted to check...
My gut says to correct it a little bit but then I thought well, maybe it is not like this intentionally.
It is not easy to bend so it will require removing the tower which seems to be a terrible job...
IMG_0007 (resized).jpeg
IMG_0008 (resized).jpeg 1 week later
I have the round screws in my game and the ball is miles away from it, it will never be in contact with the screw head.
I am here to debunk the screw myth really, because if the ball is touching the screw head in your game there is something else that is wrong with your guides allowing the ball to be closer to the screw...
Please correct me if I am wrong. Perhaps this was an issue in earlier runs?
On that note I see how adding a washer at the plunger fork might help stabilize the ball by keeping it in the middle of the shooter lane rather than making it depend on speed to balance it... This I need to correct in my game however the screws used in both chopper and tower are perfectly fine in mine.
Here is pic to demonstrate.
Something to note, I used a flash light BEHIND the ball to see how much 'air' there is in in between the ball and the screw head. If you are not doing this and you are going by 'feel' what you are feeling might the ball rubbing in between the transition in the PF and the mylar as the ball rolls on and off the edge of the mylar, which happens to be right next to the screw, giving you the false feeling you are touching the screw.
ymmv.
Good luck
IMG_0037 (resized).jpegQuoted from BubbaPin:Left the club. Traded JP pro for TSPP. It was fun while it lasted.
I did the opposite.
Quoted from ChipScott:Having owned this title three times, I noticed my first game was quite smooth at the tower shot, however, the next two, including my current game had some clunkiness to it. So, I also agree there is some variability at these areas from game to game.
My ramps/ramp flaps look just like the pictures just posted above. Taking that left ramp flap screw out at the tower shot and covering that area with mylar has made that shot smooth like butter. Night and day results, and I couldn't be happier to have stumbled on this solution. I also did this at the shooter lane U-turn ramp/ ramp flap.
I too have ordered some carbon fiber ramp flaps from Cliff to exchange the current mylar covered flaps with his carbon fiber ones. That said, while it certainly will look clean with Cliff's carbon fibers, things are shooting so smooth now, almost makes me wonder...why mess with a good thing!?!
I see it now in the pics and yes, I guess I just got lucky. Looks like the flap installation is wacky depending on who is doing it.
Dammit Stern
Quoted from NoSkills:Thanks, guess I’ve got some dismantling to do!
is the raptor not entered and it is getting caught when it bends over?
use an air dryer on the arms, heat them up until the are flexible (do not burn anything, just heat them up), hold with your hand until it cools down in the desired position. The part is now fixed in that position and the raptors arms will no longer touch the plastic on the side.
1 year later
Quoted from ripit:I just get the feeling all LE's have been compromised now. Godzilla, Deadpool, ghostbusters, Stranger things, Met or anything that has valve we know there will always be an anniversary Birthday or blue light special or some reason to pump out more LE's. I know it has been done in the past it is just now I feel there is know limit or anything goes.
A new era of multiple LE levels has started.
Funding member LE. Anniversary Le. Bologna Le.
these incremental updates can go wrong, I had it happen before.
I would try flashing the card instead of updating. Much more reliable than a partial update.
Save your settings in a USB card before flashing the card and both your scores and settings will be automatically loaded once you finish flashing, plug your drive back in, and load them back in.
Quoted from Thunderbird:Here’s my assessment after owning an LE since the beginning. It’s JP! What’s not to like?
However, after seeing/playing the new code the shine of I’ve gotta have JP30th has quickly faded. New code additions are nice. Who doesn’t like more code?
1. Really like the original LE art package anyway. The new 30th while shiny, is just new decals and painted red armor instead of green.
2. With new code 1.10 the UI/graphics still look like they’re really old, before Stern had a good graphics department. It feels kind of lack luster and sterile. In fact they started work on Jurassic Park 6 years ago and it looks like it too. Nothing close to LCD work on FF or GZ.
3. Layout is very good, but the lackluster sterile stiff theme integration still kills it. Same problem AIQ has, another Elwin game I own. Somewhat boring almost wood chopping game play tends to be the feeling after a while traversing similar paddocks.
4. Been there done that and a new coat of different paint, with new art decals doesn’t change the core issues of JP, although a great game!
T-Rex head is cool, along with raptor pen, but the raptor still gets caught on the pen. The game still looks like what we purchased nearly 5 years ago. No real reason to purchase 30th at a whopping $4,000.00 more. If I had a premium, I’d definitely not be selling it for the 30th. The premium package is one of my favorite art packages for JP. For the LE market, almost everyone that wanted one had their appetite satisfied 4+ years ago. JP 30th is nothing more than a very overpriced retread with red armor, as cool as the new stickers may be.
Best game ever. Period. Iron maiden and this should be #1.
The raptor toy is a 20 sec fix with a hair dryer, heat up the raptor arm, it gets bendy, reposition it, it cools down and it stays there.
Quoted from pixelpete:I keep getting the silver ball jammed behind the velociraptor so I added this functional mod. I took the existing plastic part, cut a new piece making it bigger and bent a flange to cover the side so the ball can't find it's way in again. Anyone else have this issue? I used acetate sheets (Amazon) for many fixes. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TCD91FM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Great idea.
had this happen once only, in about 800 games.
what is the material thickness?
Quoted from TheBananaPeel69:i threw in my sd card with 1.10 on there and the screen stayed black for a bit. nothing came up within a min so i bailed fearing i did something wrong.
but im guessing it takes 5-10 min for the code to extract?
What file did u copy in the sd card?
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:And also, use 1.11, the new bug fix version.
My question being, sounds like the order of operations are wrong.
The incremental update does not go on the SD, unless youbwere referring the sd image and you extracted it.
There is no extraction happening by copying the code in compressed format to the sd.
You can howeever copy the incremental update to a usb key and insert it in the plug next to the sd card holder.
1 week later
Quoted from delt31:Thanks everyone - it's crazy to hear that certain people have it moving into the pops while others do not. I agree that by design this likely should go around to the right flipper and I want to make the necessary alterations to make that work. My prem did it this way too. Seems like it is the ball guide -
Right orbit exit should not feed right flipper.
By design the ball should hit the post in front of upper right flipper and diverted to left flipper.
Quoted from delt31:Not sure if you’re following.
I’m talking about hitting that center spinner and how the ball should exit that center spinner shot and flow to the right upper flipper (hugging the back wall). See the video of it in this thread on this page. My 30th as received would go through spinner but then clunk and fall into the pops each time. My prem did not do this. Others confirmed it should go through center spinner and then go around and go by the right flipper. Now mine does.
Got it! I will have to look at mine, but I feel like the shot is 50/50 in mine
Quoted from CashMoney:I’m loving the “GET TO THE CHOPPA” terminator callout reference. I usually only hear it when I’m a paddock away from the visitors center.
I thought this was from Predator, was not it? either way Arnie FTW!
Quoted from KneeKickLou:Just Karl doing Karl things, all Dino’s, DNAs Fossils and When Dinosaurs Rules the Earth for good Measure.
It’s amazing the level of skill. I can barely survive 3 dinos lol
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