You'd never believe the things I hear when I take my DeLorean to a car cruise in. It's like the imagination limit is the sky. Believe me, it's awe-inspiring stupidity.

Some people just have to try to bring others down, especially when they're jealous.

I will hope the latter (especially with an LE already "in" his collection).

I'll vouch for that. They wanted me to fill out a release of responsibility form for them along with a sheet documenting my personal contact info to include my home address in case HBO came knocking at their door. Made me way uncomfortable. All of that to print two little instructions cards, and I made it exceedingly clear this was for a home machine with zero profit intentions.

I went and got myself a $50 printer with HQ printing paper and never looked back.

It's the new "liquid courage" of being behind a keyboard on the internet.

I can absolutely relate to your car analogy. I swapped the PRV engine out of my DeLorean with a turbo-charged VR6 engine and swapped the automatic transmission with a 5-speed manual transmission. Bumped the power from 95 WHP to 240 WHP with only 5 lbs of boost. I can't imagine what I could do at 15 lbs or so.

At every cruise in I go to, people lose their shit. Car guys that know how underpowered the DeLorean originally was vs. what it has now love it, and most know I could go to 400 BHP before really needing to do some reinforcing of internal engine components or additional cooling. People are very respectful, show polite praise and adulation, and if they don't like it they at least have the common courtesy to not be an asshole to me (9 times out of 10).

Put it on the internet, and some dumb fucking idiot will tell me how the VR6 sucks or I should have put an LSX in it (X = denoting there are at least 4 other LS DeLorean swaps already out there) or I should have used a completely different motor or turbo or intake system or exhaust or etc. These are the same fuckers that don't even know how or could not even begin to attempt what's been done, yet they armchair QB/criticize an effort that took well over 1000 hours of garage work to complete.

Everyone's a tough guy on the internet. But I promise this: I'll never say anything here I won't say to someone's face.

Better late than never.....! Gimmie my NIB!!!!

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Expected arrival of allotment is April, so.....in theory it'll come home sometime that month!

Can't believe I just did this, but I'm ready to let CFTBL go, and honestly, this is a LOT more game and rules and fun. And with the new JP movie coming June.... good luck.

Yes, you are.

I did the same, then started hearing rumors of the game being moved back for GZ Pro/prem, and then supply chain issues, and other possibilities (future price increase in April)

So I went and fixed that today. Less than 1.5 hours away from me. Vehicle is a 2015 Honda Fit.

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That armor is KILLER. Man, well done!

Watched some videos, bookmarked a fair number of strategies here, read up on a couple hand-eye coordination tips that members lent in this thread, and went to work today.

Got to T-Rex with Chaos MB running and I think 2x scoring. It all got a bit crazy; I think I blacked out at one point.

May not be a monster score like some of you put up here, but this is my personal best, and I am proud of it for only owning the game since 26 Feb this year!

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Getting better....

Totally choked on System Boot but made up for it by getting through all T-Rex mini-modes. Captured the T-Rex but did not capture the Spinosaurus. Went through it though and got to the Raptor.

There was a Chaos 4-Ball MB with 2x scoring running during the Stegasaurus. It got all sorts of nuts. I blacked out again.

Whatever Keith Elwin is getting paid, he deserves a raise. This game is so addicting.

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I did a lil' homework regarding flat-top screws and the screws that hold down both inverted loops in the game ("S" shot and tower shot).

These are the screws you'll want if you choose to replace them. Be warned, the tower screws in some cases may involve removal of the left ramp habit trail.

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While they aren't 100% flat, they are WAY better than the factory round headed screws.

Games Exchange doesnt do that. That kept me updated as I got closer. I went from 6 to 4 in under 2 weeks. That being said, I got a used unit, but I am happy to recommend them!

Depends. Do you have a dinosaur paddock running with system boot happening at the same time?

I was wondering what all that gold dust was near where a shaker motor would be installed.....now, my lower flipper sticks to the point a ball has to hit it for it to come down.

Less than 3000 plays and about 250K right flipper activations .

Have the coil sleeves. Am awaiting the coil stops now.....

Definitely is the coil stops. The rivet piece is loose on both the left and right ones. Marco had them on the way. Guessing I'll get them by the weekend.

Look, it is your game, but I have never understood this allure to fasten all these plastic dinosaurs all over the PF. Ok, I can understand the Raptor at the pit as that is lacking on the Pro model but...man, some of these games I dont even recognize anymore...

Get some of this:

https://www.amazon.com/CAIG-LABORATORIES-D100L-25C-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B0000YH6F8/ref=asc_df_B0000YH6F8/

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The needle will allow you to get in every single hole of the cales, and you can place it on the male pins as well. Just let it sit - no need to brush or use any abrasives - this stuff gets rid of oxidation on its own.

Has been super helpful for me. Bought mine back in 2014 or so, and I still have the same container as in the picture - it may be $35 but it will last a long, long time.

I'd take it out, put a hexnut on the threads that are on the inside of the bracket, adjust the height of the rubber stopper until when the post is dropped it is flush with the playfiel, then crank the hexnut down night and snug.

To be clear, I mean put a hexnut on this area of the threads in the photo where the red arrow is pointing:

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Holy shit, let me post a picture of my Pro so we can get off the "bitch about tools" theme we're on lately.

Back on track!!!!

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Yeah, good luck with that, Tim. People dont keep their word like they used to

"Local leagues" tend to imply the game is out in the wild for anyone to play vs a privately owned home game at someone's residence. I think that's what Tim is concerned with.

*has no dog in this fight*

PM sent

Mike and I cleared things up. Misunderstandings on both our parts. All good now!

Back to the thread!

Take the plastic spacers between the ramp and the ramp cover in the back out. What is happening is the ball is getting unseen air time and the opto beam is not always getting broken.

I had this exact issue, and once I took those spacers out, that opto has activated every ...single... time.

This game went from my biggest "rage quitter" to regularly getting 150M minimum scores. How I did it...?

1. Bring the posts as far in as possible. As already discussed, game is a drain monster, especially the right outlane.

2. Get the cliffy carbon fiber ramp entrances. Don't care what anyone says, the ball gets up the inverted ramps a LOT more than with any configuration/types of screws.

3. Remove the tilt bob. Look, I'm not going to ANY major pinball tourneys anytime soon. Who gives a rat ass about the tilt bob. Make the game fun for YOU. If all you get is drains left ad right, the most fun theme in the world won't matter.

4. Nudging. Man, when that ball doesn't make the inverted tower ramp or the left loop around the T-Rex ramp, you better know the physics of the ball and its anticipated trajectory cause it IS headed near that outlane OR off the top right flipper and dangerously close to STDM. Nudging is so key on this game. I think Keith intentionally designs his games to where if you know how to nudge, it seriously keep a game alive.

I used to get SO angry after a bad game. Three balls not lasting more than 25M in some cases. Brick. Brick. Brick. Brick. Brick. But once I completed the steps above AND got used to hitting both ramps with decent consistency, the game goes from a cage to a full on park. A...Jurassic Park if you will!

I would use a soft, malleable clay adhesive thst holds things in place but never hardens.

Google "DAP Blue Stick Reusable Adhesive Putty". That's what I use!

Disregard. I have v1.05 for Pro only.

I ordered just the carbon fiber ramp entrances and got them within a week.

Your mileage may vary.

Some of y'all need to watch Bowen's tutorial on YT.

I have stock 1.06 at home. When I get back from Tinker AFB on Monday, I can get it to you.

I just checked and found out I have JP Pro code v1.05 and v1.06 for anyone who needs it.

Don't know exactly HOW I'll get it to you as these files are 1+ gig, but I'm willing to help people in need IF THEY come up with a way for me to make the file available to them.

Welcome to pinball.

Get the Cliffy screwless ramp entrances so you're not fuming when a ball that SHOULD have made it up the ramp drains in the right outline.

Search this thread for "cliffy"...you'll find it REAL quick

Green superbands on mine - zero difficulty passing L to R or R to L.

are we talking the "3" lights in the pen...or the single station target in the back of the pen (not the Control Lab but the other one on its own in the back of the Raptor Pen) ?

Search for posts here on electrical tape used to cover top half of opto in right orbit. Should help you.

Old saying goes: "The more lazy you try to be, the more you end up doing more work."

Take the habit trails off and do it right the first time.

Look at post #15752 above.

Goat Mania ONLY with IC? You can't install the new code via a USB stick??

Thank you! I've been wondering who does this service. Did you simply email thrm and let them know you wanted the JP alternate translite? Mind me asking what the price was when you purchased?

Hey all,

Quick PSA: I know a lot of people have been pinging me for @timlah79's code the last week. I was on military assignment, so while I had access to Pinside, I did NOT have access to my personal hard drive at home where the code resides. I do now. I am figuring out a way to host a 2+ gig zip file.

As of now, I ONLY have the following:

Prem/LE v1.05
Pro v1.05, 1.06, and 1.07

These files come directly from Timlah and from no other source, so these files are sound and complete and have not been hacked by anyone unassociated with him.

Anyone know if I can host on Google Drive? Quicker I figure this out, quicker I can share with those who want it. Help me help you.

Uploading the code to Google Drive now. There are 4-5 versions, so this will take a hot minute. I'll announce here when the versions are ready.

The following links are ready:

Prem/LE v1.05 - this is the ONLY Prem/LE that will be available.
Pro v1.05

In the works: Pro v1.07 and then v1.06 - will update this post when those are ready.

PM if you need a link.

Sell that CCR. Problem solved!!

For the movie code - I have 2 cards ... one with standard code, and one with movie code. That way, I can switch back and forth without having to worry about what version I am running.

Don't know. Got one of the last JP's before IC.

For rules explanations, I'd watch Keith's JP rules explained video and Bowen's tutorial

I love the STATIC TRex. No issues to worry about. No the head only sometimes works, No break in the action.

Always found it funny how people complained the hand in JM "takes forever", but the TRex gets a pass.

Premium was $7200.

Pro was $5900 - $6200

Yep. That sucks. Later that year into 2022,they were $11.5K, and now regularly $9500.

Pro was about $6100. My used Pro was $6800.

Gotta pay to play D: !!!

Famous words that normally contradict future actions in this community ; ).

All this Trex discussion makes me SO GLAD I opted for a Pro...

DE Trex issues were enough for me....!

My optos work 100% perfectly.

No TRex mechanism on thr Pro!

Awesome. My comment wasn't directed at you...given I didn't quote you...look through this thread....MANY more people have had TRex issues years before you were even here on Pinside.

Between entry opto gate issues, ball issues once the Trex is supposed to lock it for the MB, the Rex not brining its head up and down when it is supposed to, etc...... it ain't worth $2K to deal with all of that.

As far as your issues are concerned, yep, that shit sucks. Welcome to pinball, even NIB games act up. Had it happen with my Walking Dead Pro - dead soundboard upon opening the box.

To conclue my side of this discussion - trust me, if I'm making a comment directly to you, you'll know : ).

Man, swap that ghetto Jeep for the real thing. You won't regret it.

Got to do the mod yourself. It's not insanely hard. The one thing I added to his mod is installing tiny washers between the Jeep and the mounting plate - else - the Jeep will "teeter totter" slightly when spinning.

Courtesy of Mr_Tantrum: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/162#post-5967641

Jeep you'll need: https://tinyurl.com/3ux4cwun

35 JP Prems on the market....let's see how low they go...!

Really nice to be getting somewhat back to normal vs buying a used game for more than NIB.....

Not a callout - you happen to be the most recent example - nothing personal.

Why do people block out the serial numbers? Genuine question. Is there some kind of database that invades privacy or something? Like, if I turned my TV around and showed you its serial number, I couldn't care less.

Simply curious.

Changed out my translite and am going to let go of my stock Pro translite. $20 plus shipping. If not, I'll toss it out in a week or so. I hate clutter!

SOLD - thanks for the interest!

The idea is save money...not spend more : )

Got to give it to you - you're a fan!

Hey hey hey...stop that resourcefulness and thinking outside the box!!!

Well done! I used nylon spacers (same exact ones that come with ColorDMDs) to account for the space between the Jeep and the mount - that 3D printed bracket is so sweet. If I was just about to do this mod, I'd be ready to throw you a couple bucks for the file as that looks like a factory install it is so clean.

Tell us you haven't read this thread without telling us ; ).

Granted there are 370 pages at 50 posts each.

Both issues have been discussed ad nauseum. I recommend you scroll up to the search feature within this thread and use key words to find the posts on this (probably over 100 posts on the Rex and most recently 1-2weeks ago on the Raptor).

Foo is for people who like to make shots and feel good. JP is for people who make shots and ARE good.

For those of us with a Pro, trust me, it is a thing. Also take out the black nylon spacers between thr ramp and thr top cover after the TRex head. That helps a lot too.