I was going to buy a JP pro this week, but holding off after hearing about all this. My dist also mentioned they have been getting calls about playfield flaking right out of the box. I was also going to buy a new Deadpool pro that would be coming from the Stern Factory, do you think there is a chance of a newer production dead.. pooling?

Got my pro on Friday! I've been pretty sick, but finally felt good enough to unbox it last night. Noticed no pooling out of box, after about 10 plays i can see pooling on lots of posts. Will get some pics tonight.

Btw is that decal that came with the owners manual just for personal use? Or does it have a place on the machine somewhere?

So my code update keeps failing. Ive copied the two files from the unzipped folder into a usb drive. There are 4 options. Quick/verify yes/no and full/verify yes/so. I tried full verify/yes and unoacking failed. Tried the first Option quick verify/no. Unpacking failed. Tried the other usb port on the machine. Failed. Tried the other spk file on the stick which only has 2 options full verify yes/no. Got invalid spk error. The manual nor the readme give any info on these different options. Maybe ill try a different usb stick. Any tips?

It is taking a really long time to download these files from sterns website. Maybe they have an issue on their end.

It finally installed. I downloaded again on chrome via windows the second time. First time was on mac and chrome. I also reformatted the usb stick on windows. Initially i just deleted everything on it, but it was already fat32 formatted. My guess is the reformat helped. I just did quick verify/no. Whats the difference between these? Quick and full? No info i can find on it in the manual or sterns website.

How is the code update not related to sterns work? I think you thought I was talking about formatting the USB. But in a earlier post I mentioned the multiple options there are on the pinball machine when you try to load new code off the USB. There are 4 options when installing the code, quick or full, both with verify yes/no.

Yes it came with big washers under the sling posts. But I see minor pooling on many different posts all over. The post by the upper flipper looks strange like the art might be flaking? I'll have to take the glass off for a closer inspection. I also got a green plunger spring in mine, so a full power plunge only sometimes makes the halfpipe. The button launch doesn't always make the halfpipe either though. Ordering an orange one tonight off PBL and some back up coil stops. Seems to be a pretty fun game though so far! I've only scratched the surface, but I think this has the best skill shots in a game to date?(Haven't made that 3rd combo yet; I hope it keeps going after!).

Im 30 plays into this game(gf and neighbor played some of those). I can say this is an awesome game with lots of unique shots. Still figuring out what to do, and what stuff does, but that's what keeps me hitting the start button again and again. Unfortunately i broke my raptor gate too.(i blame the raptors) i never even really shot for the raptor cage, was focused on all the other stuff. Since i took the glass off to pull this off the playfield i figured its a good time to take the regular look at my backyard pool pics.

Couldn't get a good picture of a few other pools, but the left out lane adjustment post has pooling. Post left of supply drop target and the side rail above supply drop target have pools as well. This machine has August 15 on its backside. My deadpool has August 22 on the backside and no pooling.

With that said the pooling isn't super noticeable unless you're looking for it. Had it not been such a known issue i may have not noticed. The slings have big washers on the front posts and show no pooling.

This game will be routed next week, so we will see if it can survive the crucible.

All in all, great game, given ive only had it for a few days i think the pooling scare is quite overblown compared to how it actually looks in real life, i guess the counter argument of whether pooling is only the beginning of a bigger issue is still against the time clock so we will see. Game play is not affected by the pooling. My upper flipper post seems tight still also. My only concerns here are having the wrong plunger spring installed at factory(what else might not be correct?) and this weak ass raptor gate. Also i have heard and have seen coil stops fail on new sterns unexpectedly fast, ive got some back ups on the way if i encounter that.

If pooling is the only thing stopping you from buying this one, id say buy it. But don't take my advice! Wouldn't hurt to give it a couple weeks either.

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Biggest runs I've had was virus control room or paddocks stacked with chaos. I think i saw 40 mil on one control room shot. Its hard to see what is scoring though in that chaos MB. So many balls. My score jumps a few hundred mil sometimes when i stack those though. Pretty sure 2x playfield was running too. But again its chaos. So many lights. Does the action button have any uses yet? I haven't found any.

Is it just me or did chaos multiball get notched down to 3 to start? I swear with .87 it was a 6 ball multiball to start. Maybe i just had excessive pop action before?

Does anyone elses speaker on the bottom sound blown? Mine sounds crackly like a blown speaker sometimes during some sounds. But its not constant. Wondering if its a speaker issue or just a really bad sound clip.

I noticed this jaws pro sticker in my Jurassic park today.

Does anyone have a drained ball sometimes get stuck in the drain and not sense the ball has drained? It seems they are supposed to naturally slide to the right, and sometimes a ball gets stuck on the far left and not roll down. A little nudge gets it moving, still annoying though, especially if you had a ball save going.

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Btw i put the Orange plunger spring that the manual suggests in, instead of the stock green, and my full power plunges still are not %100 up the halfpipe. Def more consistency than with the green. It almost seems like too much power sometimes. Maybe the spring strength in between Orange and green would be perfect? Could just be a halfpipe flaw or ball trajectory. But i think that's why there are secret skill shots, incase it fails.

Here are fixes I've had to do during first week on location. About 180 plays at home before location. Just over 300 when i went to repair. Not sure if flipper resets when you reset audits, but right flipper was around 12k. Left flipper no issues and around 9k. Raptor target was getting stuck on left rubber ring. I just loosened the screws on the target mount and realigned it properly then tightened down, simple. Will make sure to check if it slips out of position. Right flippers became sluggish. After investigation, both right coil stops had blown out. Replacing those restored power to %100. Luckily I've read this is common so had some back up coil stops ready. I did adjust the eos switch a bit before discovering the coil stop and received a message upon power up saying something like node board 8 overenergized. Not sure what that means. Pooling has started and pretty significantly on the left sling with large washer. Other pooling spots don't seem to be progressing.

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I had a screw break on the lower right sling post, the bottom most post bolt/screw. Can anyone please identify what bolt/screw I need to replace it? It's the double ended threaded type with a build in nut under the top threads. I'm sure it's a standard part but I could not find it in the manual. The game still works as only the top portion broke off, so I can't pull it out and measure it. Thanks.

You guys are reading it wrong. It will light chaos if chaos isn't completed. IF chaos is lit or you are already in MB then you get the super supply drop.

My raptor gate broke after 30 plays. The replacement didn't look different and broke after 1 day. My 3rd gate is a slightly different design and has been over a week, no issues yet. Will be going in today to install the new update!

Yeah we are experiencing this today. Were you in multiplayer? Tilt forums says its a bug in code where players are sharing control rooms. We were noticing some greyed out and unelectable sometimes but couldn't make sense if it. How about the tilt debounce? Has anyone noticed its jacked up? We are tilting super easily and tilt through with delayed tilts. The bob is very loose, top of bob is just below being flush with the ring. I cranked tilt debounce up to max 1500 and its still happening. The tilt was not this sensitive before the .90 code update.

From a playing position, The metal flap goes on the north side of the gate. It is there to push the roll through gate back down. The curved side of the gate goes on the right.

Makes sense for 4th skill shot to be helipad, then why not 5th spinner, then 6th upper loop? That's gotta be a DNA combo right?

My alice cooper came with pinball life prefect play silicone rubbers. They feel super bouncy for one. And 2 they are deteriorating pretty rapidly. Im not impressed. I have titans coming to swap out on ACNC so i Will have back to back comparison. Titans on my getaway are holding up great so far, though i didn't use flipper rubber on it.

Its a common issue it seems. Some people use locktite and get good results. Stern has a modified post, i contacted them about it and they mailed me one. I however had to modify there's as it didn't fit. The instructions said to put a washer on the bottom but the flipper plate didn't fit like that, so i put both washers on the upper playfield and its holding strong for 2+ weeks now.

That is most likely a blown out coil stop. I had to replace the coil stops on my jp both right flippers very early on, less than 300 plays i believe. I had one coil stop blow out in my deadpool less than 150 plays. But after replacing DP has gone 1500+ still strong. And JP about 2.5k still strong.

Getting a ball frequently stuck inside the left slingshot island under the rubber. Anyone else encounter this? Rubber seems fine. Just started happening out of the blue after a few thousand plays. Thinking ill search settings for a sling setting to mess with. Any other ideas? Maybe the rubber is just getting looser over time?

Doing stuff under my playfield today and noticed the newton ball nut/bolt underneath was loose. Trying to tighten it, i realized my newton ball is not attached to anything. It just sits on an unthreaded post. Is this normal? I figured it would be screwed in or actually attachedto the post. Unless whatever glue is used to stick it to the post broke? Is this normal or is my newton ball broken? I think its broken because i can't even tighten this post. Seems i should be able to hold the ball and tighten the nut underneath.

This was happening on mine. Just replace the bushing. I tried cleaning mine and it was good for a little bit but then went back to not resting on the newton ball. They are cheap enough, but you need the stern flipper bushings. I tried a Williams one i had and it didn't fit the screw holes properly. Obviously clean the truck rod that goes through the bushing. I used alcohol. Upon reassembling with the new bushing i did have to try different gapping to get quick smooth action. I had better luck with a gap that was wider than a standard flipper gap. Machine pitch/level could potentially play a part in how this mechanism is effected as well. Im just under 7 degrees. Good luck! You'll be back at museum mayhem in no time

What do you mean by under control? I've noticed after cleaning my game i get frequent left ramp rejections on clean shots. Its almost like the ball airballs and hits something then comes back. Is that what you mean?

Thought I'd ask here incase anyone has encountered this issue. I just emailed Stern support looking for advice, but pinside is also usually very helpful.

Has anyone had an issue with the right ramp (A) and right orbit (O) shots not registering? Not just the letters, but any shot on those shots. They are not registering in switch test. Everything looks to be hooked up properly and the switches seem to be working right mechanically (I can hear the click). Seems strange for 2 switches to both stop working at the same exact time. I traced the wires, and they both share the same spot on node board 9, CN12 (The orange clip). Anyone know what the issue is? Or what I should start checking next?