Jurassic Park (Limited Edition)
Stern, 2019
Jurassic Park (Premium)
Stern, 2019
Jurassic Park (Pro)
Stern, 2019You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider KSP1138.
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Quoted from troon47:I ordered mine last July 3 and am supposed to be getting it next month. No word from my distro, so I'll believe it when I see it.
I was just told today the premium run was moved to July, after being told Monday it was still on for the end of April.
Quoted from wackenhut:Has it really been moved to July?
Somebody else heard the same thing so I guess it is official: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/what-is-on-the-line-at-stern-pinball-delays/page/30#post-6868619
Quoted from Jenk540i:<blockquote cite="#
The glass on my pro was extremely hard to get off the first few times. Had to put a little wax on the edges. Also have a premium and the glass on that one slides out on its own.
It was slightly easier the second time, but that was after cleaning black gunk off the edges of the glass and out of the channels and putting a little silicon lube spray in the channels. I'll try some wax. I think the glass is just a bit too wide and is scraping the sides of the channels. The next time I have it off I'll measure it and try glass from another game.
Quoted from shaub:3 sets of modes: Paddocks (catching Dinos), Trex Events, and Control Room modes. Each one has a mini-wizard mode after playing them all so that is a nice singular goal to focus on.
Paddocks: spell MAP by shooting white shots, start at left ramp.
Trex events: hit truck captive ball enough to spell TREX, start at left ramp. First Trex event is a 2ball MB.
Control Room modes: Started at C shot when lit, different criteria lights it, but if you see it lit, go for it.
And then there are two Main MBs:
Chaos: Spell CHAOS from left to right, start at Amber Target when lit
Raptor: Shoot Raptor Pit a bunch of times, when the Flasher are near seizure-inducing, next shot starts it.
I know its alot, but thats kind of why this one of the best machines ever. Focus on one thing at a time and get a feel for it and when you understand the basics, you can go about stacking a few things together.
For example, you can get a paddock going with a control room or trex mode then start Chaos MB and go to town.
Thanks, for the Control Room mode qualifications I found this over on TILT since I couldn't figure out on my own what triggered it:
Catching your first dinosaur
Spelling CHAOS twice
Getting a Jackpot in Raptor Tri-Ball
15 tower shots
Quoted from shaub:Yeah, I was gonna go into that but then I figured my post was already starting to get out of hand.
What you posted is a very good concise version of the rules. And after playing a handful of games you sort of run into lighting the control room naturally. I would have guessed it was only lit after capturing dinos. If I tried to explain the rules to somebody right now it would be like this.
tumblr_o16n2kBlpX1ta3qyvo1_1280 (resized).jpgQuoted from NightTrain:Anyone have an issue with tight glass? Got a new premium and no joke, I cannot get the glass back in. Never had an issue with the last 80 games I’ve had.
Remove the side rails and adjust the glass channels?
They did have some flooding at the factory back at the end of April, so maybe extra humidity in the wood is causing it?
Quoted from NightTrain:It’s not that. The cabinet it good. It’s the glass Channels being set in to tight. I removed the rails. Same problem. I’ll remove and reinstall the Channels and report back.
Ok, curious how they can be adjusted. I thought there was a slot routed into the length of each side and the plastic channel had a fin on the bottom that sits into that which doesn't allow for much if any adjustment.
Quoted from NightTrain:Thanks for the suggestions. I checked the cabinet with a square and tape measure. It’s all good. Different glass does the same thing. Even Invisiglass.
I’ll request new glass channel trim from Stern and try that. Only other thing it could be is the routing for the trip channel isn’t straight.
Got the glass in, but it’s just super tight. At least it won’t rattle! Lol!
I'm going to put some upgraded speakers in mine tonight, so I'll confirm if my cabinet is square too. And measure both the glass and cabinet width. I did have some black gunk in my channels after I took the glass off. Not sure if that was from the glass rubbing, some overspray from paint, or something else.
I can get my glass off and on with suction cups, but it would add an extra degree of difficulty if I ever get a ball stuck during a good game. Definitely won't need the anti-rattle tape on this one.
Quoted from KSP1138:I'm going to put some upgraded speakers in mine tonight, so I'll confirm if my cabinet is square too. And measure both the glass and cabinet width. I did have some black gunk in my channels after I took the glass off. Not sure if that was from the glass rubbing, some overspray from paint, or something else.
I can get my glass off and on with suction cups, but it would add an extra degree of difficulty if I ever get a ball stuck during a good game. Definitely won't need the anti-rattle tape on this one.
Problem solved: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/what-is-on-the-line-at-stern-pinball-delays/page/54#post-6960101
I started seeing some weird behavior today, such as the C and H shots were registering without hitting them and the raptor gate going down right after the start of a game. There weren't any stuck switches, but after some troubleshooting in the switch test menu I found that moving the T-Rex mouth triggered a bunch of switches off node board 9. I figured there was something going on inside the T-Rex head and it wasn't too hard to find out what after taking it apart.
I soldered the ground wire back on and everything is back to normal. The head moving back and forth combined with a weak solder and not enough slack in the wires seems like what caused it, so something to look out for in newer builds.
20220619_193452 (resized).jpg20220619_194519 (resized).jpgQuoted from John_C:Good fix, KSP1138, but I think I would have re-flowed that (+) connection as well.
I'm saving that for the next time I need to take the T-rex out to fix something, and the + connection was solid enough that it wasn't going to come off anytime soon.
Quoted from mbl1116:It’s certainly worth a try as it requires little effort, but based on the OPs description it sounds like what I’m dealing with on my DP premium, and this is not a solution
The issue seems to be the glass channels, and Sterns official solution (at least in my case) was to wipe a little Pledge inside. This has little effect and my “solution” was to buy industrial strength glass suction cups and pray
Maybe I'm just imagining it, but the glass on my JP seems slightly thicker than the glass on my other games. It doesn't have that "Made in the USA sticker" either.
The plastic channels themselves aren't really the problem. They fit into a groove routed into the cabinet and are a standard size, so replacing them isn't going to fix anything. I can only speak for my specific game, but the tighter the screws on the side rails, the more it pinched the plastic channels vertically. I loosened the 2 regular screws and the 2 bolts at each end on each side and the glass can now be removed without suction cups.
Quoted from Manny65:Have you tried swapping the glass from one machine to another? That’ll quickly confirm if it’s the glass or the JP cabinet
Yes, I considered that before loosening the rails, but all my other glass has anti-rattle tape. The thickness looks to be the standard 3/16'' off a tape measure, but I don't have a way precisely measure it.
I guess I could try the JP glass in another game.
Edit - glass is good. JP glass slides right into the Mando next to it.
Quoted from NoSkills:Has anyone who had inconsistent auto plunges been able to fix it 100%? I’ve tried everything I can find suggested, washer under left side, shooter lane fork, bending the forks of the auto plunger so they both touch the ball at rest, trying different powers in the menu, putting a piece of Velcro under the playfield to reduce the pullback of the auto plunger and reduce slop.
Nothing has made the auto plunge 100%, it especially fails during multiball when more than one ball is launched in quick succession.
If anyone has any other suggestions I’d be very grateful or is this just something everyone accepts just happens occasionally with this machine?
Thanks
I was able to get my auto plunge working 100% of the time by bending the forks in towards the center so they make more consistent contact with the ball. Prior to that they were both touching the ball at rest, but the balls probably won't be in that at rest position during multiball launches. The width on my forks now is the same as the ball groove in the shooter lane.
Quoted from kool1:Same LOL
This game can be brutal. Had a 590 million ball 1 a couple days ago with 2 extra balls in the bank and finished with 635.
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Oswego, IL