I was seriously considering ordering a Premium. Think I will hold off for a while an see what happens with this clear coat situation...

Mine is a recent build (April 2021) that I just got and it also had problems with the ball exiting the right ramp and bouncing around along the way down to the upper flipper. I took a slow motion video and the ball was definitely exiting at an angle and not flowing smoothly into the lane. I bent the long wire on the left a little further to the left and the long wire on the right just a little bit upward. I only bent them about 1/8th inch each; it didn't take much. Now the ball exits smoothly rather than a quick right then left turn while exiting. Your mileage may vary but those two longer wires are what controls the exit.

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It would be cool if they made it so any game after restarting is not illegible to enter initials for a high score. You say that should be Grand Champion? Too bad!!

I just swapped out faux Jeep for a real Jeep too. What a difference it makes. That other one just looks so wrong. I swapped to the metal bearings too while I was at it and the Jeep really moves smoothly back and forth despite being heavier than the original truck.

Use the tool to adjust the switch so there is just a tiny gap between the metal points. If they are closed all the way the bumper will continuously fire. The white rod should hit right in the center of the spoon at the lowest point. That is most likely not your problem unless someone has messed with it.

Congrats! They seem to be all sold out up to the December build and beyond. I lucked out into grabbing one built in April 2021 with low plays that had been traded towards a Mando LE.

Sheesh, my eyes! I thought you were linking to the post below it as some sort of Rick roll.

I wonder about the new run of toppers? I think they were supposed to be made in early August.

Tim will let you know the protocol when he sends the download link. Buy a separate SD card to put the new software on and always keep separate cards for the authorized and unauthorized software. That way you can put your current SD card with the authorized Stern software into the coin box for safe keeping in case you ever want to go back or if for some reason Stern puts out a new software release down the road. Also, you could swap back to original if you ever sell the game depending on who buys it.

Stern was not happy at all about this software code, that is a big reason why there is that huge new end user agreement to acknowledge every time you download new code from Stern. Here is a key snip: "You will not use or install any Unauthorized Content or Unauthorized Software. Use of Unauthorized Content or Unauthorized Software may result in your Stern Pinball Machine ceasing to work permanently and/or losing access to Stern Pinball’s online game network, either immediately or after a later installed Authorized Update."

The code is great and well worth the minimal effort to follow the protocol. Keep a separate SD, don't use the game on location and don't stream with the new code. Hopefully you own a licensed copy of the movie on Bluray . If Stern ever releases new code for the game, go back to the original SD card before overwriting it with the new download (based on the words in that end user agreement).

I posted on this a couple of weeks ago. It was fixed by just slight bends of the two longest wires at the exit of the ramp.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/220#post-6397652

Usually includes HD Glass, shaker and other items beside the powdercoat and backglass. Not to mention LE usually includes a resale value greater than Premium + $1200, so the value argument can be looked at in a number of ways.

All of this has been overcome by events in this new era where LEs go to the highest bidder. If I wanted a Mandolorian LE I would have paid at least $12K from the distributor. That basically makes me a premium buyer from now on. Not a huge deal; I put a shaker, side rails, topper and other items on my JP premium and plan on getting HD glass at some point.

Edit: Prior to Mando, the difference from Premium to LE was closer to $1400 than $1200...

Even with it fully tight, mine moves around just a little. I suspect someone tried to tighten it down too hard and snapped off the hardware. When you get the new hardware, tighten it down until the nut is tight and don't crank on it any further.

I just got my topper the other day and I haven't even gotten to the goat mode yet, so it takes a bit. I will say that I like this topper more than I was expecting. The lighting and flame effects and the overall fit with the art package on the game are great. It simply looks fantastic to me. That's what I'm looking for ever since I bought my first Whitewater! I know some people don't like toppers, but I think they complete the game when done properly. No matter how much the Stern toppers cost, I've gotten my money back or more when I sold the games (Star Wars and BKSOR) so value is a relative thing.

Mine is an April build and it works fine. 1.03 is the latest code for JP and should be installed before the alternative code to make sure the node boards are up to date. The alternate code is based on 1.03. If Stern puts out an update to JP software, I would not install it unless it was significant and even then probably not unless I knew the alternate code was being updated. That is another reason to keep separate SD cards for the Stern and alternate code to be able to switch back and forth and never overwrite the alternate with the official code and risk bricking the machine.

https://wizardmod.com/

I would imagine any batch after this current run will have the connected hardware and I would not count on using the unauthorized code unless it is updated. There will be a new code release and I assume those new games will also get the new node boards that drove the new GOTG code release. Hard to say anything until we see what comes out for sure.

I got the new 3D Start button and Dino Eggs coin rejects from Rocket City Pinball and they look great! These can be found in the Pinside Marketplace. Both look better in person than in my pictures. The Start Button I chose the red background and installed a red LED to make it pop a little more. The coin rejects look really cool with nice contrasting colors and nice lighting from behind using the existing LEDs. Install is very easy and Rocket City Pinball even provides videos. The hazard coin door accents are from Tilt Graphics Inc.

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Those speaker cables would not be needed using the device in question. The whole idea of that is to convert the signal from speaker wires (speaker level input) to regular old fashion audio cables (line level input). So it would even use a different input on the subwoofer.

Look at your subwoofer. Does is have speaker level input or just line level inputs? The cables you posted a picture of will use speaker level inputs. Cables like this will work with the device you were asking about and connect to the line in on a subwoofer:
pasted_image (resized).png

OK, so you have both types of inputs - line level and speaker level. You can use either of the two methods to connect. What is that white powder looking stuff inside the speaker port on the back? It almost looks like it is full of sand?

The speaker wires that you were thinking about getting would simply clip onto the terminals + and - terminals on the cabinet speaker and run to one set of the big black (-) and red (+) "speaker level in". It doesn't matter which you use left or right. Be very careful if you go this method to make sure everything is power off before you connect.

Otherwise you can buy a Pinnovators device which is similar to the device the other guy posted and use the regular audio cables to connect to the connectors labeled "line in" on the subwoofer.

Other notes on sub settings: Set the phase to 0, on/auto/off to auto and set the "lowpass" to around 150hz (stay below "bypass"). Tweak the volume as desired, this will take a little playing to get the machine and the woofer to the right volume to have a nice balance of sound.

LOL, the vendor is wrong. No doubt the movie code caused a stir at Stern with their licenses resulting in the new end user agreement and coming changes to lock down the system. The wifi might help them deal with bootleg code, but the wifi would be here now whether the need for lock down existed or not. The one did not create the need for the other believe me. The wifi has been in the works since before JP came out let alone the movie code.

I plan on keeping the movie code in my machine and not buying the online update hardware. For recent build games and the December build JP, Stern had to go with new design on the node boards because of parts shortages. That is the reason that you won't be able to install the movie code into the newer JP machines, not the new wifi hardware. The movie code contains SPIKE system drivers for the old node boards and will simply not run on the newer machines when it tries to boot up and initialize the node boards.

Hopefully between wifi updates and new features, the online update will be worthwhile for future games. Personally I will not be updating my older games though...

Print it out and put it near the crapper.

For the most part, I scan the rule sheets for a few things. How to start the multiballs. How to add a ball during multiball. How to build and collect the major jackpots. What does the action button do? From there you can get a good start and slowly build up on some of the more obscure rules.

Watching the pros play, they use add-a-ball with surgical precision for keep multiballs going forever it seems. Just as the MB is ending hitting the add-a-ball turns the ball saver back on and throws balls back onto the playfield at a point where the jackpots have already grown and they really clean up.

Yeah I love the looks of mine too. The lighting effects and looks really do complete the game. It's not as cool as the Black Knight topper, but it is definitely not flimsy either.

Looks good. What is the name of the color(s)?

I did a couple of videos back when 14 years ago testing plastics. The second video got muted by youtube because I had Tom Petty playing in the background, but the first video is still ok. Keep in mind that PETG performs about the same as Lexan.

Here is the second much more extensive video. The sound was muted and replaced with stupid music, but you can fast forward and there is some good visual information and summary:

The key with the helicopter blades is the weight has to remain the same, so they spin down slowly and make that cool woosh, woosh sound as they slow. Going to lighter bladed without the metal and nuts and bolts will make it spin really fast and then stop just as fast without the slow woosh sound. The reason I mention this is that I had considered moving the factory blades to the underneath the playfield and putting more realistic looking blades up top. If only the shaft that the blades are mounted on would extend further down below the playfield this would have been possible. In hind sight this would have been the way to design it from the beginning so the extra spinning weight was below the playfield and not visible.

I just lined up the plate at a similar spot under the Jeep, drilled the first hole and installed a screw. Once I had one screw in, it was easy to hold still and aligned to drill the other holes and install the three additional screws. It took maybe ten minutes for that part of the install because I was being overly careful. I replaced the bearings with the metal ones when I reinstalled. The Jeep looks a million times better visually and works really smooth compared to the OEM setup now. If you are running the software with the movie footage, this is really a required mod...

I've tried them all over the years and I use real red rubber on my flippers. It works the best for me.

Interesting. I never liked the Premium translite. That one does look better despite the off brand Jeep.

When there is that much of a gap, there is something wrong. Either the auto plunger is too far forward or you have an extra washer or two on the outside portion of the shooter? My plunger came with a new housing, but I think the only difference there is the extra holes and LEDs. If all else fails, a stronger spring will do it.

Well that sucks. You might start with vice grips... I had a similar hex screw strip out on a motorcycle recently and I tried using the easy-out type remover that digs into the inside the screw head. It kept slipping. Finally I was able to get it out using the remover tool that goes around the outside of the screw. These get more leverage and work great for this type of screw:

https://www.amazon.com/Tools-Power-Grip-Extractor-7-Piece-394100/dp/B000EF1EHY/ref=dp_fod_3

I put down two layers of mylar in the critical areas of the shooter lane before playing the first ball... Mylar can barely be seen and I have not had any issues in home use.

If someone wants to make helicopter mods, there is a 12 pack of the Matchbox choppers on ebay right now. These are tough to come by at any price...

ebay.com link: itm

I bought these a couple of years ago to make the nice lighted helicopter mod that others had done. They were not easy to come by and I paid too much on eBay. Sold my game a while back and lost interest in making the mods... They are just sitting on my shelf, so time to offload them.

IM me if interested. $20 each or $60 for all four plus actual shipping cost. USA only sorry.

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