Jurassic Park (30th Anniversary LE)
Stern, 2023
Jurassic Park (Limited Edition)
Stern, 2019
Jurassic Park (Premium)
Stern, 2019
Jurassic Park (Pro)
Stern, 2019You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider J-Freeze.
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Quoted from CoolCatPinball:I recieved some powder coat swatches in the mail today along with a sample of green edge trim. I took a couple different angles to try and catch the metallic in them. What color you all like?[quoted image][quoted image]
One of the top 2 for sure, can't decide which one matches the molding better though.
The bottom one is cool and might be my favorite of the 4 but I wouldn't put green molding on with that one.
I like titan for regular rubbers but the post sleeves don't hold up very well.
Get cliffy post sleeves, and titan rings.
Quoted from Titan_Pinball:The new JP takes the Stern Slim posts. Cliffy only makes the standard post which are too thick. We have a new design for the Stern Slim post that should solve this issue AND they are tapered to reduce airballs. Some colors are available now and the rest should be here next week.
Excellent! Cant wait to try them out!
Quoted from Thunderbird:If you actually put time on SWpre/LE, think you’d feel differently about that. AFM is a great location game, which is what it was made for, but lastability is most important imo, for the home.
SWpre/LE, has lastability in spades and once you understand the game, it has so much going on and so many cool toys, it is way underrated, by those that don’t own one or have many games on it. SWpre/LE is a perfect example of how the top 100 is so far off base and is a farce.
It really is a fantastic game.
Quoted from PokerJake:It's here[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Awesome! Mines not here yet, might have to come play yours!
Quoted from Da-Shaker:Anybody try switching the warm leds to cool leds, to light up the play field a bit? Thoughts / pics?
I'll be doing comet sunlight in mine.
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:Ill be checking mine, I think Ill be doing fluted domes, Warm, or cool, but I have some Sunlight left too.[quoted image]
Oooo the fluted would look sweet too!
Quoted from PokerJake:Has anyone installed Pinstadiums on their JP yet?
Post #2266 looks like he has them on there.
Quoted from pninja005:So pro's have problems, premiums have problems and LE's are ok?
What premium problems?
Quoted from VALIS666:This is what a distributor wrote in an ad for Elvira HOH premium:
"I expect the allocations to get cut as they did on the Jurassic Premiums so the sooner the better on this one."
Anyone know what they're talking about? Are they making fewer premiums of JP than planned, or is this person just trying to literally scare up business? I wanted to pick up a NIB JP premium sometime next year, was under the impression I had plenty of time.
They just didn't give distributors as many premiums (lowered the allotment) as they were going to on the first run due to rushing Elvira onto the line and cutting JP premium production to do so.
Probably going to do the same thing to Elvira to catch up JP premiums.
Anyway they are back on the line now, you have plenty of time.
Quoted from kidchrisso:Is the width of the DE translite the same as the Stern?
If not the exact same width, very close.
I measured without pulling them out but they are almost the exact same width including trim, probably within a 1/16".
Quoted from jake35:thanks. I wasn't sure if I needed a full blown "protector" or if mylar was sufficient. I didnt' want to damage it but in a home setting may be overkill.
You can also turn down the ball eject power, that will save a lot of wear on the shooter lane.
Another set of good looking art blades for JP
https://www.pingraffix.com/product-page/stern-jurassic-park-pinblades
46e848d0dd54c20a6ab535c008854aab13b1227d (resized).pngQuoted from imagamejunky:Hey guys.
I've been having problems with my Premium. On almost every game at some point a high speed left orbit shot from the upper flipper isn't registering. Both rollover switches and both optos are working correctly in switch test. My guess is that the left rollover isn't being fully depressed due to the ball speed, or maybe the ball isn't completely flat on the playfield. If it's getting a little airborn it may not be depressing the switch all the way.
I'm just wondering if any of you are seeing this too?
Thanks
Nick
I have been having the same issue.
I think it's been mentioned before but has anyone had problems with the ball hanging up behind the spinner gate where the gate meets the guide?
Any fix for this?
Quoted from fooflighter:(I'm at 7.0 degrees by the way and this was still happening)
Pull up on the fence that holds the gate slightly to where the end is slightly above the ball guide, it will provide more clearance for the ball to pass under the gate like it's supposed to on the corner of that lift gate if it didn't have enough speed to make it to the pops... Mine came pressed down from the factory slightly and was hanging up there too... Some of the promo pics from Stern have the bridge/ fence for the gate higher than mine was set... Fixed the problem in 2 seconds, you can experiment and bend it slightly so the ball just dribbles back through the spinner lane
[quoted image]
This looks like the fix!
Will have to play test (boo hoo)
Lifted it just a little and now the ball can open the gate without sitting on it and come back down the spinner lane.
Quoted from SDTMinSTL:Newish member loving the game (JP Prem) and I thought I'd ask for some guidance.
Two minor issues.
T Rex sometimes doesn't get the ball on clean shots. Searched this thread and didn't see any solutions but maybe I'm searching for the wrong thing. Anyone else have this issue? It's maybe 15-20 percent of the time.
2nd, does anyone have any idea where this came from (photo below)?
While in multiball I caught a glimpse of it sliding down the center of the playfield and instantly stopped playing. Looked for ever and I don't see an obvious spot it came from. There are two of these flanking the raptor figure but both are attached so it's not those. Any ideas?[quoted image]
Isn't there one of those on the raptor hip also?
Quoted from fooflighter:This is a confusing area for me, it's a one way gate...BUT it is an angled one way gate, Yancy posted on this a couple pages back and involved bending and cutting...I'm not sure 100% but I think the intention of the angle to the gate is to allow that ball to come back down the spinner lane and not get hung up on that corner...What other reason would they have for angling it like that if not to allow the very remote chance of letting what would be a stuck ball come back through...My solution has been to pull up slightly on the fence which just allows the ball to lift the gate and not get hung up..it's such a rarity though...99.9 % of the time the gate functions like it should, to stop weak right orbit shots or flow back down the spinner lane...anyone else care to chime in?
You are correct, it still functions like it should.
The ONLY time a ball comes back down the spinner lane is when it is a ball that otherwise would've gotten stuck there, it works the way it should at all other times.
Quoted from fooflighter:That's just it though, I'm not altering anything..Just a slight pull on the fence to correctly match what the design angle is on the model pics and vids from Stern ...it still performs like I said 99.9 % of the time as a one way gate...The ONLY time is when a ball would slow roll and park itself right on that corner..it's so rare I've only had it happen like 3 times in 1000 games, but it has happened...so matching the Stern positioning of that fence does allow the ball to unhang itself naturally, when it does come down that lane, it is a gentle left flipper return
Exactly.
I barely had to bend it upwards maybe a 1/16".
At this point just keep them separate.
This one is better.
The other thread is just a lot of spam posting.
I'm actually all for having a prem/LE issues type thread but that thread gets ridiculous sometimes, let them have it.
Quoted from MustangPaul:I played a JP Pro for the first time this weekend, 25 cents for 3 balls if you can believe that. What a fun game, it actually lets you play with crazy drains so the ball times were quite long. Pops were fun with plenty of action and man for a Pro this game has lots to shoot for, really a great layout in my opinion, animations and call outs are top notch and the pf and cabinet art are beautiful . It could use a tad bit more pf lighting but all in all a very fun experience. I wound up putting my name up after half a dozen games which was cool. This is one game I'd like to get in the future.
MustangPaul you are welcome to come play my premium anytime!
There are a couple volcanos and maybe some leg light ups in my near future too!
Quoted from WizardsCastle:I like what Keith did with Visitor Center. Anyone know how many shots needed to complete it?
Also, what follows? Is it Museum Madness and then Nublar?
Visitors center starts at the rightmost 2 shots and moves counterclockwise one shot for every one you make, they can also time out and regress a shot, I beat it the other night but I cant remember if you end on the raptor pit or if you have to hit the trex shot after the raptor pit.
Museum mayhem is started by going through all 4 of the "T-REX" modes.
Secure control room is started by going through all 3 of the control room modes.
Nublar after all 3 I think.
Quoted from WizardsCastle:So, just starting the modes, or completing them?
Just starting them but completing modes and getting fossils adds to the big bonus you get when you start visitors center.
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:But , perhaps that is what is intended?
I think it is.
Otherwise the only way into the pops would be the smart missle shot, or a sad orbit shot.
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:SO, since the new .96 code, my scores have decreased on the average it seems. What's everyones new highest scores on the newest .96 code??Currently I'm having trouble breaking into the 300 million. Had a few high 200's.
Hmm I thought it was because I put these super bouncy titan rubbers on, only a couple 1 billion games since, I put them on the same day as the update but I still think the rubbers are the main reason.
Going back to super bands or perfect plays at least for flippers.
I always change out rubbers because I dont like all the crap the black ones leave but I'm still getting bad ball trails even after changing rubbers, balls, regular waxing, and cleaning all the time.
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:Out of curiosity, did you replace all the black rubbers? Including the post sleeves? I did, and put nice shiny ninja balls in, and I've had zero ball trail or gunk issues since. I hate the black post sleeves especially.
Yep, all rubbers.
Quoted from atrainn:So what's the general consensus on Premium vs Pro now that this game has been out a while? I think I'm ready to pull the trigger, leaning more towards a premium at this point, pretty much only for the trex mech
Premium is great, art is better, raptor pit is way better, my TRex has been fine and adds a big moment to the game.
Quoted from MikeS:What are the scoring differences between Pro and Premium? I thought I read something about 2x raptor jackpots that aren't on the Pro? Do the helicopter spinner blades add any scoring or strategy?
During raptor MB you can lock a ball in the raptor pit behind the uppost for 2x scoring and I think every hit of that captive ball adds time to the 2x scoring.
Quoted from fooflighter:It's a bad design on that corner... I pulled up on the fence just enough to allow the ball to lift the gate only when it's sitting on that corner on a super slow roll... Which is almost never... Only happened for me about 5 in 2000 games. But still annoying... Anytime else it will go to the pops or orbits... Just pull up so the edge of the fence holding the gate is just above the ball guide... You can test it with the glass off putting a ball on that corner repeatedly and just pull up enough to allow the ball to trickle under... Simple fix and it matches the height of the fence on the stern demo videos... If you bend it towards the flippers, you probably are going to jam the gate on the plastics near the hinge and risk sticking the gate in the up position
[quoted image]
This right here.
Like Foofighter said less than a handful of times has it ever had to come back through but it has not gotten stuck a single time since I did this.
Quoted from flipper73:so it seems that there is no reason why these two spots are bigger than the others...
Super Predators, and they have a couple of the biggest perks when captured.
Quoted from Freakyguy666:What part of the gate structure do you grab (with narrow pliers?) and pull up on to avoid damage?
No need for pliers. Just pull up on it on the left side (not the wire gate itself but the supporting structure) probably only have to pull it up 1/16".
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:Im a dumb audiophile. The Sound updates look great, along with everything else!
Im hoping someone with an external sub, and pinsound board can share their settings.
Samesies minus pinsound.
Excited for this update!
Quoted from Coz:Ive got a really weak upper right flipper. What do you recommend for a rebuild? Is there a kit with all the parts? Also, are there kits to keep on hand for backup? Looking for recommendations
Just need a new coil stop. Replace all 3 while your at it.
Mine do exactly what you are saying.
If you skip the animation they don't light up right away (only on the first paddock). I usually just shoot for the spinner or right ramp. I dont think it's a "bug" though.
Quoted from jalpert:Is it a bug or not that when you go to start your first paddock the rescue shots you need don’t immediately light? Impatient people like me have to wait otherwise there isn’t any way to know which shot needs to be hit so you can’t double flip to start.
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:I've never looked at my shaker personally, but I did read somewhere, that its manually adjustable. I believe it said that essentially there's a weight on the spinning shaft that causes the shaking. And, that by loosening a set screw and sliding the weight inwards or outwards on the shaft would raise or lower the intensity. Something like that. I remember it sounded pretty simple.
Yes. Loosen allen head set screw and turn one weight.
Weights parallel with each other = most vibration
Weights 90° = medium
Weights opposite (180°) = least
Always get rid of that black rubber on every game!
I did titans on my JP2 and didn't like them, the slim tapered post sleeves are ok but they dont hold up, I put the regular slims on my Iron Maiden and the were beat up in under 100 games.
Put the the tapered ones on JP and I've had to turn all of them to a fresh side because even after cleaning them they are chewed up, it'll be cliffy for me next.
As far as the rest of the rubbers go, too bouncy for me on this game especially the flipper rubbers, the ball would bounce all over the place and I wouldn't even get a swing at it for long periods of time.
Swapped the flippers for perfect plays and it was much better, put superbands on tonight and now it's amazing. I can only describe it as "predictable"
I've had titans on my Dialed in, IM and GOTG and never really had an issue with them (superbands for flippers on GOTG but everything else titan) but for whatever reason I hated them immediately on JP, felt like I had zero control.
Got some perfect play rubbers to put on and see if there is a difference besides the flipper rubber but the flipper rubber alone made a HUGE difference.
If it wasn't for all the crud from the factory rubbers I would leave them on as they play great IMO but I keep my games clean and that's just too much maintenance with those.
I should also add that the rest of Titans rubbers do seem to last longer than any any others, just the post sleeves that wear out quick but their slings and other rubbers are solid.
Quoted from jacksparrow0112:Local Jeep dealer has a JP themed Gladiator that looks straight off the pin. George Gomez was onto something...LOL[quoted image]
That thing is sweet!
Now if I only had an extra 60k laying around...
For a skill shot I hit: Trex, right ramp, tower, and then the "O" shot and good things happened.
(First try too!)
Quoted from Andy1:I played this game for the first time!
loved it!!
I,m in, I,ve never bought a new machine, Pro, prem or Le ???
Premium, no diggity. No doubt.
Quoted from jandrea95:Pretty sure when thumbing through adjustments I saw a static gi lighting setting. Default is no.
I'll check for that tonight thanks.
Quoted from KingHebes:What do you mean by under control? I've noticed after cleaning my game i get frequent left ramp rejections on clean shots. Its almost like the ball airballs and hits something then comes back. Is that what you mean?
That happens on mine sometimes too...
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:I'm in the club too! the machine was build in dec. 2019, bought in germany a week ago.
At first i was a littlebit concerned becaues the machine felt uncommonly for me, but after 30min i was hooked, can't stop playing!!
-Heli-blades got stuck on the metal guide right out of the box. Fixed it carefully in about an hour.
After reassembling the blades they seem to spin too slow and tend to not coming back to the standard position, any idea?
-Clearcoat was deformed too from the metal guides.
-T-Rex opto was covered from its own cable, but working now 100%.
-The flipper buttons seemed to get stuck sometimes, i inspected them and there was a little seam from molding- ground it away, perfekt now.
-I bought an external volume button for spike systems, but i think JP needs a newer one since i do not find the right connection, anyone experienced?
-Anyone knows where i can buy a quiet fan? Its really loud!
-Also the T-Rex is very loud when moving, is this normal?
-The only real problem i can't fix is the Spitter lane. My balls wont go around smooth there about 80%. If you have an idea i would be thankfull![quoted image]
-Make sure the bottom of the heli post isn't rubbing on the plate down there.
-The external volume control should plug in under the menu buttons.
-@pinmonk sells the quiet fan, I think pinball life carries them now too.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1170-pin-monk/02140-spike-quiet-fan-plug-n-play-kit
-T-rex is loud
-The spitter lane isn't supposed to make it through clean every time. It should feed the pops some of the time.
Quoted from Pinstein:I made a new alternate translite for the data east game but liked it enough to format it for the stern game. Realizing the actors dont apply I also made a DINO only version with the Jeep.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Perfect for all of you caution tapers.
Quoted from Coolpinballdino:I'll take it to make sure it looks fine but I'll double check.
Funk how it looks. It's probably bad.
If that rivet is loose it's shot.
2 of 3 of mine were bad within a month.
BTW Not for nuthin' but Johnny Crap crushed this premium art.
I don't love all the models art but the premium is money, the translite is growing on me. (Except the stone stegosaurus)
The Playfields are gorgeous.
Quoted from Tungs10:I struggled with this for over a year in another title. Turned out to be that copper looking stopper at end of coil. If replacing it - your best best is a rebuild kit that will also include the rod that might now be mushroomed at the tip. You'll also see some metal dust in the cab.
This early on, your plunger probably isn't in need of replacement (but worth checking) and certainly not a full rebuild kit.
A bunch of brass dust in the cab under said flipper is a dead giveaway though.
These coil stops are notoriously bad.
Order 3.
https://www.pinballlife.com/flipper-coil-stop-for-sternsega.html
Quoted from Insanity_Falls:Cool, thanks. Is it also by design that whenever this light is lit, the slings fire directly into the outlanes 100% of the time?[quoted image]
Correct.
Quoted from RikV:I was just fighting with this yesterday. I was changing out the stock rubbers for silicone, when I got to that one I noticed that the rubber was cut by the metal guide. I thought, good thing I got new silicone bands to go on. But between the metal guide and post was so tight that it sliced my new silicone ring. Now I’m sure it’s not supposed to be that tight. Plus , I was annoyed by soft plunge always going to the left sling. So I adjusted the position of the metal guide. Now on soft plunge it ends up on the left flipper. My theory is that position of the screw that holds the metal guide was drilled too far to the lower right. Some modification of both the screw and hole in the metal guide allowed the new silicone band to be installed without destroying it.
You can also loosen the post that holds that rubber and move it as far away from the lane guide as you can before tightening, doesnt move much but makes a difference.
Quoted from twinmice:Is it me or just odd they didn’t use flat head screws in the first place?
Yeah it's stupid.
The tower ramp screws are ridiculous, nobody checked that ball clearance?
Does the smart missile "Invalid frenzy" count towards "Escape Nublar"?
Also TWICE in the same IF mode I hit the C shot and the ball bounced out before the post went up and I was S.O.L. until it reset.
Maybe just a coincidence but I dont remember that ever happening before the update.
Quoted from ectobar:Invalid Frenzy isn't a requirement for Nublar so no.
To get to Nublar you need to start Visitors Center, Museum Meyham, and Secure Control Room.
Ah yes, duh.
I was on the sauce and confused it with SC.
Thanks
I think the upgraded raptor pit adds as much or more to the game as the T-rex.
The T-rex definitely wins on cool factor and is an awesome toy but for playability the raptor pit is the big difference maker.
Quoted from kactussjack:JP Software glitch?
Sometimes after a ball drains, the game advances to the next ball, but auto plunges and no skill shot is available. This can continue for several balls,even carrying over the the next game. Has anyone seen this behavior? I am running 1.01 code.
Has not ever done it on mine, running latest code too.
Agree sounds like it might be a trough issue.
Quoted from MrMikeman:You don't need to. A flat screwdriver held against the nut is usually enough to hold it while you tighten.
Works great, did the same thing a few weeks ago.
Quoted from Astropin:Finally got my topper in from Tilt! I know this is the older version, but I actually like it better than the newer limited edition one.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Just ordered one for my DEJP before I saw this post.
Glad I did.
Quoted from WizardsCastle:I thought it went in order Feed, Chase, Encounter, Rampage?
I think you can change it with the truck, first one is always multiball though.
Quoted from spfxted:Anyone LOCAL want to buy my Jurassic Park dino standee? It's pretty big at about 5 feet tall, but would be a pain to ship....
[quoted image]
That's awesome!
If you do decide you can ship, let me know!
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:But shouldn’t a Smart Missile Hit immediately start Chaos MB?
Only on the first time around.
I think if you have already had a chaos MB it will just award one full set of letters.
(2nd chaos MB requires that you spell chaos twice to light)
Quoted from jdroc:I don’t think that’s true either but correct me if I’m wrong. I believe the award is “complete CHAOS”, and it is the same as hitting the S ramp as the last CHAOS letter, qualifying Chaos mb but not starting it until you hit the target again
Just tried it with the glass off and it awarded 5 letters.
So for example I ran it through one Chaos MB and then I completed the C and the H towards lighting a second MB and left it with the A flashing, hit the "complete chaos" and it gave me 5 letters and left it with the A flashing again. Then completed the A, O, and the S and the second chaos MB was lit.
Quoted from jdroc:I don’t think that’s true either but correct me if I’m wrong. I believe the award is “complete CHAOS”, and it is the same as hitting the S ramp as the last CHAOS letter, qualifying Chaos mb but not starting it until you hit the target again
Okay so tried something else too.
On the FIRST spelling of Chaos if you have not yet completed the C, the smart missle just completes all the letters, lighting but not starting Chaos MB. If you have at least completed the C it will start the multiball.
I guess we were both correct but talking about different things 
Anyhow, It basically awards one full set of 5 letters either way.
Quoted from jacksparrow0112:Ordered some plastic palm trees off of amazon. What is the best way to mount them around the game? Is there a specific plastic connector I can order off Amazon that connects to the tapered end of the tree trunks and easily mounts to existing game screws? Or maybe an adhesive backing that allows these to stand in areas without screw holes. Thanks in advance for the assist!
[quoted image]
Looks like these are sold out but you can message him and see if he will make some for you.
Quoted from gblack:Haha well now it seems like it’s random
Now that I think about it, I'll have to check, it may have come with red.
I don't think I flipped a single ball with the factory rubber.
Quoted from zh2oson:Well, that's annoying. Does this one end up being mostly for Pro owners?
No. This one ends up being mostly better.
Haters gonna hate.
I think it looks great.
Overpriced? Yes absolutley but it is nicer than people are giving it credit for.
This is my dream theme and machine, it won't leave this room until I move so screw it I bit the bullet and bought it.
If it were any other game I may not have, and if it makes me "part of the problem" so be it.
I like it.
20200611_181957.jpgPretty sure it has a node board in it, may be why it costs more.
Didn't take it apart but it updated nodes when I turned it on and it has a cat 5 cable.
Quoted from Gorgar666:Looks amazing
The background lighting is brighter in person.
It really does look great.
Quoted from PeterG:The problem I have with the topper, beside the $600 is that the art is just a copy of my LE art on the backglass. The t-rex is exactly the same as is the other dino. I think that was a bad decision. Just a lame topper...sorry.
Hey you are totally entitled to your opinion.
I was wondering about that LE art, that's so stupid, I would not be happy either.
It's a bit redundant with the logo too.
Quoted from Utesichiban:I thought I was the only one that had bought the green matchbox Explorer for my JP . I installed mine over the air ball protector plastic at the front of the left ramp in front of the T-Rex.
I have the "crushed" explorer under/behind the Rex.
Quoted from zeldarioid:That's fun! Is that a produced product, or did you do the crushing effects yourself?
It's a licensed matchbox car. I'll try to post a pic later.
Quoted from zeldarioid:That's fun! Is that a produced product, or did you do the crushing effects yourself?
15927017627673075978758713476844 (resized).jpg20200620_200833 (resized).jpgQuoted from gorditas:A doll house! That is hilarious.
I was planning on a wax this week anyway, but what threw me over the edge was a machine screw and spacer sliding down the playfield. It was the right hand side of the T-Rex ramp. I checked all other screws while I had things apart: nothing else seemed loose. A few games with the glass off to test things highlights how much stress and vibration a pin goes through on every game. In a way, it reminds me of working on helicopters: a machine that is constantly trying to shake itself apart.
A lot of vibration in shipping as well...
Quoted from gblack:Maybe that’s why I’ll try without the left flipper hold
Edit: the callout doesn’t work when left flipper is used. I always used the left flipper so it doesn’t just add a player.
It won't add a player if you let it eject the second ball first.
Quoted from seenev:I'm surprised that no one sells this, so I'm making my own.
[quoted image]
Love it!
Quoted from Jediturtle:That looks like someone buffed it too hard with something too aggressive...possibly with a wheel with how circular the marks look. You might be able to polish it back out with some elbow grease, but be careful not to make it worse. With a newer machine like that, there's no reason to use anything stronger than Novus 1.
It's from the balls, mine looks like that too in just the right light/angle.
A tiny nick in a ball over a few hundred plays will do that to this super thin clearcoat.
This game chews up balls, I'll be replacing them every couple hundred plays from now on.
I've already put three or four new sets in.
Not sure if it is from the contact with that tower screw or the top of the raptor gate, maybe the end of the "c" guide if that target gets pushed left enough?
It really bothered me when I first noticed but you can't see it from playing position, might try to buff it at some point.
Quoted from fooflighter:That is strange, I've had mine going for a couple thousand games and they look brand new, no pitting. There is most definitely some contact being made somewhere
So did mine. Couldn't really find any pitting or anything significant on the balls but it doesnt take much, this clear is super thin. Mine isn't as bad and I have probably close to 3000 plays on mine.
I clean and wax more than regularly.
20200602_211645 (resized).jpg20200602_211412 (resized).jpg20200602_211638 (resized).jpg20200602_211502 (resized).jpgQuoted from fooflighter:Try this technique, may seem a little strange but worked for me
I agree the clear is thin..
Take some Blitz wax on your fingers and rub it into the playfield, i mean really rub it in, your fingers will heat up from the friction...
The using the heel of your hand, flatter surface, continue rubbing until the playfield starts to shine...you'll see a difference start to happen...
After all this initial massaging, let dry 20 minutes and lightly wipe off with a really soft microfiber, not a cheap abrasive kind...then recoat and wait 20 more mins with a thincoat...
this worked for me, the rubbing seems to almost seal the wax into the little thin scratches and the top coat then caps over those layers..
hope this works for you
I'll give it shot, thanks.
Quoted from nicoy3k:Should go to the left flipper, hitting the raptor pit and having the ball feed to the flipper via the control room is maybe the most satisfying shot in the game (sorry prem/le owners)
Here is a picture of it helps troubleshoot your issue. [quoted image]
I don't know man, hitting a clean shot that locks the ball and raises the gate is pretty damn satisfying so no need to apologize.
We still have that up-post there.
Quoted from nicoy3k:Ehh interesting but for 99.99% of people that is irrelevant. Back handing the raptor pit in the center consistently is pretty dam hard for most people. And like you said, a software tweak to tournament mode could fix this. I would also argue that having a satisfying/rewarding backhand shot is another plus....I still prefer the ability to use the raptor pit as a fourth “ramp” to continue combos. Hitting the raptor pit, getting that little ramp like pause, then combining to the A O or S shot Just feels amazing. This game can be clunky enough as it is with all the tight shots to have a bash toy sending the ball back at your face on top of it. Just my personal opinion though, there are obviously some positives to the prem version of the pit as well.
Again I disagree.
It's really not that hard to backhand the center target consistently, in fact I prefer it, it's a much safer shot. If I had a pro I would do it over and over for raptor MB all day.
I'm not even arguing that it's not a great shot on the pro, it is, I just dont think it's any better but to each their own I guess.
Quoted from Saddath:Mine got stuck alot without balls trapped under it. The end of the metal was getting stuck in the board under the playfield. Changing position of the board slightly solved it for me.
[quoted image]
Most alt translites look terrible but that one is not too shabby!
Quoted from JonCBrand:First for me jammed up under the truck.
[quoted image]
That has only happened to me once on my game, but I think it was a known issue on early runs.
I was sick of the clean shot to the tower ramp rejects (yeah the ones that come out to the top or to the right of the right sling), to the point that the game felt clunky and I hadn't been playing it much.
Tonight I finally got around to filing the flap screw down like someone had previously suggested so the ball can't touch it and it made a HUGE difference.
Every single clean shot to the tower (at least 20 or 30 in a row) sailed right through smooth as butter!
On mine you could see where the ball had been hitting it, if you can't, just mark the inside edge before you remove it and file it away, i had to take a little off the top as well.
As long as you can still grab it with a #1 bit in there you are good.
Once you get it so the ball clears it completely I guarantee you will notice a difference.
That little detail has brought back the fun and flow of this game for me, just knowing that if I hit it clean it WILL go through and that shot feels so good when it does but is REALLY annoying when it doesn't.
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:After wrestling with filing, and losing the little bugger twice, I replaced with a small countersunk screw,
2 minutes, zero issues....100% better
That'll work too!
As long as the ball can't touch it, it'll be so much better.
Quoted from Manny65:Stern have historically had an issue with standup targets where by the starting leaning to one side. Sometimes they can be re-aligned to be straight and stay that way but most of the time it is due to the bolt that holds the switch leaves together not being able to stay tight with the constant punishment of the ball hitting the target. If this is continually happening on a target, you could look at fixing it with this https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=BK3
It should already have this.
Quoted from RedDragons5:Been having an issue for about a week....looking for suggestions. Spinner shot from either flipper is only going clean around to upper right flipper about 10% of the time. Very clunky lately and I'm not even getting the ball to bounce in the pops after a "clunky" shot. Just rolls right through. Pitch is at 7.0 and seems to be pretty level left to right. Anyone else have this issue?
Its supposed to feed to the pops some of the time, honestly I wish it would more often on mine.
I had to adjust the leaf switch for the bottom left pop bumper when I got mine, it wasn't sensitive enough to activate when the ball dribbled in there.
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:Not sure if it has been discussed, but I wondered about the premium translight art. There are 2 raptors and a stegosaurus, but then a 4th dino on the right. Not sure if that is a dilophosaurus or what? Looks like it could be a throwback to the DE JP ball eating dino mech. Looks really similar to that.
There are 4 raptors and a stego.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:That would be very helpful to many of us if you could do so. Also, some good pics of install in different positions.
Did you end up going with the new JP to replace the old one?
Quoted from Eskaybee:Question. Does Anyone actually like the Topper goat mode? I know it’s probably not worth it and doesn’t add anything to the game. But, is it fun? Or just a waste all in all?
I guess I don't like or dislike it, its a fun little add on.
I thought it was kind of a throw away at first but there is a little strategy to it.
It can be worth a respectable amount of points if played well.
I like the topper a lot with or without it but its a plus.
Its a nice topper IMO the goat mode doesn't make or break it.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Thanks (actually, I prefer mm for measurements like this).
So, here is my idea of what I want the decal to look like with velociraptor tracks (the original looks too much like bird tracks to me)[quoted image]
But it IS the pteronadon ramp.
Quoted from nicoy3k:You’ve got wear on the right side
Who cares?
It looks fine, its a pinball machine.
I've never walked away from a deal do to shooter lane wear...
Quoted from nicoy3k:I agree, but some people do. If you buy a NIB game it’s nice to know that putting something there will prevent wear.
For sure, I put a protector on mine as well but I just don't think his looks bad or would bring down his resale value at all.
Anywhere else on the playfield I'd be wary of the clear being worn through but IMO shooter wear is not really a factor and is not that hard to repair if it bugs someone, that being said it doesn't hurt to protect it lol.
People nit pick these things like they are timeless art pieces and its silly to me, by nature its kind of a violent game.
Play the funk out of them, just do regular maintenance and they will be fine.
Quoted from NightTrain:You’re all good man. It’s fine. Just play and have some fun. If you read these forums all day, you’ll go insane thinking you need to slap metal and Mylar over everything. It’s a pinball machine. It will be fine. Play the shit out of it and don’t worry about minor things.
Totally agree.
Hope all is well over there in your neck of of the woods brotha! Congrats on grabbing Vittys JP that thing looks sweet!
Quoted from LesManley:Proud to be able to say I just got in on a JP Pro. Love Elwin's work, I also have a Iron Maiden Pro. Can't wait to experience this one in a home game room environment!
[quoted image]
Atta boy!
Its always better at home.
Quoted from WizardsCastle:Still nothing on screen showing how many t-rex modes you've played/need?
Come on sk8ball this is needed!
Yes!
Quoted from Gogdog:OK, I've tried googling "jurassic park ball trap helicopter" but don't see any posts. I keep getting ball traps in the helicopter blades. Do I need to add different washer weights on the blades or ? It seems like it could always be a possibility to get a ball trap here if the blades catch the ball at just the right time?
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
I'll have to double check but I don't think the short blade is supposed to make contact with the ball.
I've got a few thousand games through mine and I can count on one hand the amount of times a ball has gotten trapped by the blades
Quoted from Metroshica:Since everyone seems to have issues with Stern coil stops, I decided to take a look at mine today. I was very surprised to see that mine are rubber. Has Stern switched to that now? I did notice that my flippers sounded a lot quieter than my BKSOR sounded, I'm wondering if that's why.
Wrong end? The flipper stops are rubber.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:PBL BrightButtons are installed. These are not really yellow (photo doesn't do the real color justice), but an amber color which is an exact match to the color of the pop caps.
https://www.pinballlife.com/britebuttons-illuminated-flipper-button-set-for-jjp-wizard-of-oz-and-hobbit-pinball-machines.html
[quoted image]
They match the amber shooter rod pretty well too!
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:I was hoping so. I'll get to see in a few days when mine arrives.
You'll be happy.
Quoted from Gogdog:You removed both of the posts? It seems there would be a potential ball trap there then?
Anyway...after taking the area apart...it almost seems like the different type of metal post was intentional. I mean, they definitely had to use different screws and everything to attach it.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
I don't have an extra plastic post to use currently, so my initial plan was to just take the one from the back and use it up front. I.e., convert it from a 3 post to a 2 post rubber.
[quoted image]
But....the post is really tight to the ball guide.
[quoted image]
I'm thinking....that someone on the line decided to use the other type of post which is skinnier, so the rubber doesn't get cut or squeezed by the ball guide. You can see that in my original picture ->
[quoted image]
A better plan....might be to just dremel off some of the top of the post so its just not as tall and keep using it.
I'm sure that it was switched to improve the feed of a failed heli shot.
When I put new rubber on I had to loosen that post and apply pressure on it as I retightened it to keep it as far from the guide as possible so it would not slice the rubber and keep the feed to the left flipper instead of the left sling. I did the same with the guide itself.
My factory rubber was already sliced when I took it off.
If you don't mind the look of it, dremeling some of the top off should work well.
Quoted from Markharris2000:This is what I imagine an afternoon could bring to you...
[quoted image]
Almost did a spit take when I saw this!
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Now that I have the amber shooting rod, those glow yellow coin rejects were really bugging me - I know, it's a curse. Anyway, I opened the coin door and observed they are using standard 6V 2SMD clear lens bulbs that are cool white. I swapped them out with a couple of 2 SMD Comet clear lens warm whites I had on hand, and I really like the results. They are now much more "amber" looking and match my shooter rod and illuminated flipper buttons much better. Next is getting rid of those ugly 25 cent reject inserts.
OEM cool white bulbs
[quoted image]
Right side with warm white and left with cool white
[quoted image]
Both with warm white bulbs
[quoted image]
I like to put "fire" bulbs in mine
Also pinballlife sells an orange start button, I think I put an amber bulb in there and it matches the shooter and flipper buttons really well and is way less offensive than the green one.
20201120_235547 (resized).jpgQuoted from bent98:Whats the part # on fire bulb?
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Got my amber start button installed along with replacing the black plug with an amber flush mount tournament button from bent98
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1074-bent-mods/03066-spike-flush-mount-custom-tournament-button-
[quoted image]
Amber button is way better right?!
Quoted from Markharris2000:I decided it was time to buy a can of 'the best spray lubricant" for a pinball machine, so I thought I would do some research to see how all of the common available sprays compare. Lots of commercial sites recommending their own product obviously, but I found this site to be quite fair:
https://thehomespecial.com/best-silicone-spray/
They recommend the Permatex 80070 Silicon spray, about $12 on Amazon. (close second is WD-Silicon spray, not WD40) Permatex has been around over 100 years and is quite well know in industrial applications... and they are Canadian based (We can tip our hat to our northern friends)
For what?
I wouldn't use any spray lubricant anywhere on a pinball machine, it WILL collect coil dust and end up making things much worse. Almost everything is designed to operate dry, if you think it needs lube, something else is likely the problem.
I use a drop of dry teflon superlube here and there on a spinner or like on the truck bearing but sparingly.
There are very few uses for lubricant on a pinball machine.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:For those of you who have added a real knocker, what part(s) do I need, and how do I install/connect it? Also, by adding a real one does that disable the digital screech sound, or are they independent?
BTW, I love my friends’ reactions when they match and a real knocker goes off. Had some friends over recently, and they literally thought they did something that broke my AFMr when the knocker fired.
Yes it disables the screech.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Perfect, thanks. Is the best place to mount it in the top corner of the head or somewhere else?
I mounted mine in the bottom back left of the cabinet.
It is VERY aggresive, I put a pad on the plate to tone it down a bit.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Just ordered one along with the PBL external volume control/headphone jack (just $49 vs Stern's $99). Can hardly wait to get the knocker installed, as I love watching people jump when it fires! My other games have them in the head (came that way), but I think I'll follow the suggestions offered and mount it in the cabinet this time.
Good call.
Both are must haves for me.
I can't invision myself using headphones to play so I just use the volume control that goes where the tournament button would go, either way its such a bonus to have the volume control on the outside.
Quoted from ProjektPat:I don't understand how the hell you're reliably supposed to hit that smart missile
I hit 8 in a row one night, it can be done.
Quoted from Phbooms:Has anybody replaced all the frosted warm white GIs with sunshine or clear warm whites to make the game brighter?
I put sunlights in mine but it didn't really brighten it up much IMO. I will eventually get around to putting the warm whites back in, I think they fit the vibe of this game.
Quoted from Phbooms:Does anybody know how many GI white bulbs the game has in it? Im going to order clear bulbs but stay warm white. I just ordered Lermods backboard and trough light kits for JP(thanks Roger Walters for pics) and SW.
I believe it was 27 but I'm not positive.
A couple thousand games through my premium, haven't had to do a single thing to the Trex.
I love my premium, but the pro is still a fine game, in terms of actual gameplay the only real downgrade is the raptor pit, that pass through is kind of lame comparatively (and doesn't really add any flow) but shouldn't be a deal breaker.
It is one of sterns best pro models and if you do end up getting a pro I don't think you will be dissapointed and I doubt you would wind up upgrading down the line.
Quoted from Jediturtle:There is a lot of detail I didn't manage to capture well in the pics. If you look close at the eye, a part of the image from the LE backglass is reflected in it. It's a nice little touch that I had no idea was there.
Now my big question...is it a T-Rex or a Raptor on the blades? I mostly hear it referred to as a T-Rex, but I'm not sure...
Its a raptor on the blades but the reflection in the eye is a T-Rex, which is a cool detail i didn't know was there until I saw them in person.
I put a different set on but I might still buy a stern set just to keep for "someday maybe".
Those look good.
Quoted from yzfguy:I think the light is a cool idea, but I really prefer the real bug...
[quoted image]
What makes you think its not a real bug?
20210220_142701 (resized).jpgMine is a "newer" one (3rd run)
Its definitely a real bug and looks awesome.
The second run had some kind of bug that looked like a piece of wood with wings.
Apparently Crane flies were not "in season" at the time and were hard to come by but demand for the shooter was high so they improvised and for good reason it was not accepted well.
I have never heard of one that had a printed bug in it.
Quoted from Wilberto757:Is there any chance I can save time and money and print this translite from RetroRefurbs at a local shop near me? I dont know if it would cost just as much to hunt down and buy the high pixel image then print it here in Orlando.
[quoted image]
Why wouldn't you just buy one instead of ripping off someone's artwork?
That person hand drew all of that for the purpose of selling these, I don't know how long it took but I'm sure it wasn't quick.
I like to be paid for my labor, don't you?
Quoted from Markharris2000:The artist actually posted his progress draft images on this website a year or so ago. He appeared to be working on it for at least a month or longer. He made matching cabinet art as well, and think he factored it for both the older DE machines and the newer Stern machines, so he spent a ton of time as we watched his updates get posted. I would pay him if I wanted to use it in my machine...
Yeah I followed that, it was a ton of work.
I just didn't reference it because I wasn't sure if there was a final draft in there to get stolen but I don't think any of those are high res.
Quoted from Wilberto757:I mentioned in my post I wanted to BUY the digital print or image from the artist after i found it. Mark mentioned he made a posts and I just found it. I was asking if buying the right to print it and get it locally printed was cheaper is all, I didn't mean to cause any confusion.
No worries.
Sorry, I misinterpreted what you where after.
You could reach out to hassanchop but I doubt anyone would sell anything like this digitally in today's world, too easy for someone to abuse it.
Quoted from DMVPin:I just noticed 2 dimples at the same spot right in front of the lower flippers. However one of them is chipping. Anyone else experience anything like this? Thanks!
[quoted image][quoted image]
Flipper alignment holes, and I agree that it looks like dried wax.
Grab a toothpick and clean them out.
Quoted from Jediturtle:I wonder if they changed on different runs, because mine is a t-nut. There should be no need to hold anything from the bottom when tightening.
Yes they did, original run was just a t-nut but they took a beating and kept coming loose.
I think they changed it on the LE run.
Quoted from Markharris2000:My first JPprem definitely had a lock nut with the build date on that machine was July 21, 2020. I have another JPprem on order now and I am curious what post fastener it will have (build date will be march 2021). I suspect the nylon lock nut will still be there.
Correct, it was changed from a t-nut to a through post with a nylon lock nut after the first run.
My Nov. 6 2019 premium has the lock nut on the bottom.
I believe everything after the first run of Pros should have the lock nut.
Quoted from adam12hicks:Wanted to share my powder coated hardware I just got back. Was shooting for a dino skin look and I’m super pleased with how it came out
[quoted image][quoted image]
Thats how I planned on doing the powder on all 3 JP's.
Looks great!
A buddy had his monster bash PC like that years ago and since I first saw it I thought it would look great as dino skin.
Quoted from adam12hicks:Awesome! This was silver + acid yellow. Even though it comes out green shades once baked.
I guess it a little bit different, yours is more of what I was going to go for though.
Maybe an inbetween.
Quoted from Spyderturbo007:Sorry. Maybe my post wasn’t clear. I started
Gotcha. Makes sense. I assumed you could go back through the paddocks you didn’t do on the way to the visitors center.
How are the control room modes lit? From what I saw, capturing the first dinosaur lights the first one. What would I need to do light them after the first one with no paddocks lit?
Raptor multiball lights one, spelling "chaos" twice lights one, and I think there is one more way as well.
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:Here, but the letters fell off right from the start. However it looks cooler without them anyway
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1232-pinball-stuff/03028-jurassic-park-flipper-toppers-pre-order
I messaged him before I ordered and he sent them to me without the letters attached, I like them much better that way.
Quoted from Jediturtle:Ahhh...that is probably what I was thinking of. I knew there were times when a partial worked, and times a full was required. I should have double checked the rulesheet before posting. Thanks!
No you are correct.
The first 2 TREX spellings are achieved with only lights hits to collect a letter. The second 2 spellings (and MM) require a full swing to collect a letter.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Here was my DE JP with safety yellow and caution tape theme (some thought I went over the top with it, but I loved how it looked).
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
I think it looked great, definitely not my style and not something I would do but to each their own and you put it together nicely.
Quoted from MrMikeman:I also don’t “get it”. I would get it on a Roadshow. But there is NO caution tape anywhere in Jurassic Park(movie). As if plastic tape would somehow restrain a dinosaur…
This has always been my feelings on the caution tape.
Quoted from mbrave77:ok so I found these in my cabinet. Ive had the game a year and havent had issues, but Im sure they go somewhere....
[quoted image]
The clear plastic airball protector over the trex ramp?
Quoted from Jmxdc:Anyone seen a issue where the Trough randomly puts 2 balls in the Vuk? Maybe a sensor board?
One at a time or 2 at once?
Quoted from Jmxdc:2 at once
Ok then it is not the shooter lane switch, it has to stack 2 balls to do that.
Try turning down the trough eject power.
Edit- looks like Manny and Mark beat me to it haha
Quoted from Jmxdc:Turning it down to 175 fixed it. I recently installed cliffy’s and it looks like it was just bouncing right back in perfectly. Thanks!
Awesome! No big deal!
Quoted from gorditas:This describes me to a T. I'm not a comic fan at all, and walked right past AIQ several times on location. But once I played it, I found that I kept going back. I far prefer the theme of JP, but I now prefer the gameplay of AIQ Premium by a wide margin.
[quoted image]
Same, avengers doesn't do much for me as a theme but AIQ is awesome, I still think JP is the better game overall but its not by much and theme may be the deciding factor for me.
IMDN is great too but its a distant 3rd of the 3.
Quoted from chickenscratch:Well that would have been smart had I known that trick! Would be sweet if we had a post that was “here’s a compilation of every bit of smart knowledge and tricks we’ve learned after decades of pinball” but at that point could probably just publish a book.
Its at the top of every thread.
And at the top of the forum.
Screenshot_20210703-012422_Chrome (resized).jpgScreenshot_20210704-094319_Chrome (resized).jpgQuoted from LesManley:How do people like the amber shooter rod? I've always liked the look, but missed out on picking one up before. For those that have it, would you buy it again?
I'd buy it 100 more times. It is fan-f'n-tastic in every way.
Quoted from purbeast:Can anyone confirm that the nut size is on the right outlane post is that you can adjust? I have a few parts off of mine right now where I have access to use a mechanic/combination wrench to unscrew it so I can move the post to where I want to move it, however I don't have the right tool.
I am guessing it is 1/4" based on the size and I just looked through the manual and didn't see any mention of it. Anyone know for sure what size it is?
I am referring to the post below.[quoted image]
Up top it is 1/4"
Underneath its probably 11/32" or 5/16"
Quoted from purbeast:Anyone have any pics of LED speaker kits they put on their JP Pro?
I'm somewhat interested in them but there seem to be a lot of different ones out there and curious to see what the different ones look like. I kind of like the look of the LED circles versus the ones that have the full rectangular panel lit up. But I kind of want to see different ones to get more of a comparison on this machine.
I almost got the ones from pinball life but then saw there were so many so don't want to rush into it.
You will have to upgrade to new speaker mounting plates and bigger speakers if you want the circle lights.
Quoted from Only_Pinball:Where did you get the lock down bar piece? I havent seen one in color like that.
Thanks!
Mr_Tantrum sells them.
Quoted from purbeast:Thanks for that. I had never seen the Stern ones installed so that helps.
The one thing I don't really like about the Stern ones is the scale of them. It's like zoomed in on the Raptors head and just feels a bit out of place in the grand scheme of the scale of everything else on the graphics and in the pin. But it is also cool because it's kind of like the Raptors are watching you and reminds of the scene where the "clever girl" gets her kill.
I like how the tilt ones, at least on the left side, the wires almost play perfectly into the wires on the T-Rex fence that are broken. I also like all the foliage on them and think it blends in nicely with the overall theme.
dacdjsteve do you have a pic of those installed on a machine? They do look pretty cool but that stock photo probably is photoshopped and it's pretty blurry once you zoom in.
Whats hard to see in the pictures of the stern blades is the reflection of the roaring T-rex in the eyeball of the raptor.
I didn't know it was there until I saw a set in person at expo a couple years ago.
Quoted from Markharris2000:I keep wondering why they placed such a huge lighted QR code reader in the apron. The camera on your phone can do it... no need for the business card sized window to be there in the apron. It could have been done with a 1/2" round hole with a camera sensor.
Perhaps they think tourney folks will carry a printed card in their wallet with their QR code printed on it? A paper card has no backlight and in a darkened room would require a front-lit window like they are using. Could that old-school usage model be what they are thinking?
I think it has more to do with making it user friendly, obvious, and easy to locate for casual players.
They put a lot of signage around it and all over the place, they want it to be seen and used.
Quoted from ag83:The right guide before the helipad on my Pro machine is sticking out. I think it’s a remnant of the top part coming loose and me having to bend it to get it to fit back in. Is it a bad idea for me to glue it to the right black rail? I think it sticking out is preventing the ball from reaching the helipad from the auto shooter.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Its on the wrong side.
It should be on the inside to protect the ball from hitting the blunt end of the guide, not tucked behind it.
20220407_185835 (resized).jpg20220407_185859 (resized).jpgQuoted from TheNecromancer:Peter's Billiards in St Paul.
They are a stern distributor in the loosest sense of the term.
They have a pretty high markup on their games as well.
Glad you eventually got it taken care of but I'd steer clear of them in the future, plenty of other respectable distros around to choose from.
Quoted from NoSkills:I ordered these recently from pinball life because I thought that’s where I got my last batch but they were different. The factory stern posts and my last batch I ordered are kind of more hard plastic than rubber and last forever, these were just black rubber. Anyone know where to get the more plasticy ones?
The superbands brand sleeves from pinball life last forever.
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