Jurassic Park (30th Anniversary LE)
Stern, 2023
Jurassic Park (Limited Edition)
Stern, 2019
Jurassic Park (Premium)
Stern, 2019
Jurassic Park (Pro)
Stern, 2019You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider Hop721.
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Just ordered a Pro. Finally found something worthy of spending my money on from the sale of my AFMrLE. Can’t get enough of this game in the wild. My Distro here in Oregon says eta of about a month, as they are currently running Elviras. Gonna be a looooong month....
Quoted from seenev:How much does HD glass improve this game? Do you guys think it's worth it?
I’m waiting on my pro to arrive and it was the first upgrade that I spent money on. I’ve got it on my existing game, and have had it on all my games in the past. Why not be able to see clearly the art work and any mods that you do? And you can always use it on your next game.
Quoted from DugFreez:What people are calling "the right" insect is one that looks like the insect on the LCD screen animation during the game. Like a mosquito. Where they are extracting the DNA from the insect in the amber. The "incorrect" one...looks like a different kind of insect. More like a moth or something.
A bug is a bug I guess, but I would want the one that looks like what is shown on the game.
The “wrong” insect that is being referenced (And that I see a lot in these mods) Is commonly known as the Crane Fly or Mosquito Eater. It looks somewhat similar to a mosquito but is quite a bit larger. It also lays its eggs in my lawn, leaving brown spots. NOT cool!
Quoted from Audiofreak:Hi Guys
Here some pics of what i did with my jp pro. I never liked the jeep so i put a original jp jeep from the Universal Studios in and i had a custom transilte done from a guy in poland, its one of a kind. He extra put the original jeep in the translite the side blades are also from him, he maid 5-6 sets. As my username says im a total audio freak so i also had to do something there, i put 2 high end focal 2way coaxial speakers with a 12" subwoofer. So that all fits i made some spacer rings with my 3d printer. Sounds fantastic, never thought the original sounds have such low frequencies. The jp is one of the best pins ive ever played.
Greetings from Switzerland
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Grüezi (?) Audiofreak!
Love your mods! Super cool translite! Did you add an amplifier when you upgraded your speakers?
Quoted from Audiofreak:Haha yes Grüezi is correct, how did you get a ü with your US keyboard?
Yes i love the translite, its directly printed on the glas and the picture cannt show how high the contrast is and beautiful the colors are.
I did`nt add a amplifier, when i screw the volume to high you notice that the amp from the subwoofer overloaded.
But that`s realy already loud enough and the cab is shivering and making noise.
This speaker mod was waaaaaaay much cheaper as soundsystems you can get in some pin shops. Costs where like 80$.
Awesome! I’m wanting to do a sound upgrade and sounds like your method will work and is affordable. Appreciate you sharing!
And, if I hold down the U button on my phone keyboard, it gives me many options ü,ù,û etc. (had to ask my kid to figure that out )
Quoted from Audiofreak:I activated the equalizer in the settings and pulled for the subwoofer all frequencies over ~150hz down to minimum, the backbox speakers get full range and there i also pushed the bass a bit up for the kickbass. They easily can handle that power. Then the sound is so amazing! It’s just very important that the sub has a spacer so it does’nt touch the cab floor when working and that the spacer is closed all around so that the sound can’t escape to the side.
Here some pics how it looks by me.
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Really cool! Thanks for the pics.
What wattage and ohms are the speakers?
Quoted from JayLar:I'm joining the club shortly (waiting for a premium) and would like to upgrade the speakers. What would you audio freaks recommend? I want something easy to install (haven't got a 3D printer to make custom spacers) and without too many settings or trade offs. Just better sound. Greatful for suggestions!
Member Audiofreak had a few posts about speaker upgrades a couple of pages back (sorry, at work and don’t have time to look up specific post)
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:Stern hard post rubbers = super fast drains. Would switching out the rubbers on this playfield let me sleep better at night after an evening of high blood pressure caused by super fast drains? Any suggestions/links on the brand? The out lanes in this game are making it hard for me to continue calling myself a Christian after some of the things coming out of my mouth.
The consensus here seems to be Superbands for the post rubbers and whatever your preferred flipper rubber-I like perfect play for my flippers.
Quoted from Spaghetti73:Modfatherpinball
How did you attach the trees to the plastics? Tape, wire, etc. ?
Quoted from WizardsCastle:Not worrying
Just looking for some pics for comparison.
Thanks!
Here are mine. Picked up game 2 days ago, so only a few plays on her.
2A075645-483C-4C3D-B09B-C020FE2F09AE (resized).jpegC6C5D9F1-DE27-4249-8FD2-D6FEC1FEAB57 (resized).jpegQuoted from Jahkub:Did anyone get a game that shipped with the proper spring? The three games I've seen all shipped with green instead of orange.
July 21 build: Green spring. Seems to be working 85-90% of the time, but I will be ordering the Orange from Stern. Also, obligatory game room photo:
C52F1A26-7795-4B59-8F2F-4AC0C2271B82 (resized).jpegQuoted from nicoy3k:Anyone else find the A shot (right helix ramp) to be the hardest shot on in the game by far?
I know some people find the O and C to be tough but I feel like I have a good sense of how to hit those. The A just seems to have a mind of its own or something, it doesn’t even look tight, it’s right there... maybe it’s in my head? I do seem to be able to hit it during the skill shot.
Funny that you posted this. I’ve had my game a week and have been able to put in some real time over the last few days. My thought after my final game last night was exactly the same as yours-“why the HECK can’t I hit that right ramp”?
STAFF IS IN DANGER! Well, if they’re on the right ramp, I guess they’re gonna die lol
Quoted from MrMikeman:SUPERTRANQ time!!! Hit that green button!!!
Yes! I keep forgetting about that!
This is the first game I’ve ever owned with an action button and I am still getting used to it. Thank you for the reminder!
Quoted from Hop721:Yes! I keep forgetting about that! This is the first game I’ve ever owned with an action button and it’s taking a while to get used to it.
Quoted from metallik:Sometimes its better to use the supertranq before the dino gets to an employee...
Say you're trapped up on the left, the dino is at the center shot you've got an employee at the O shot and the dino is about to move to the right ramp. Hit the tranq now, freeze the dino in the middle (easy) shot, now make the helipad then middle to capture him immediately. If you miss the helipad shot you still have 20sec to recover and make the helipad->center combo for the capture. Easier IMHO than trying to capture at the r ramp or O shot.
Great strategy! Makes perfect sense. I feel like I can hit that spinner all day long but the A and O are iffy
Quoted from Andy_Chapman:First pin, first mods! Took me a while to find the right sized Raptor and Pteradon that I was looking for, but pleased with how they came out.
Both were re-painted to match the colors on the playfield. I've also stuck some clear self adhesive domes on the Raptor cage lights for effect.
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Great idea with the clear domes! I’d like to do that on mine. Where’d you get them, if you don’t mind my asking?
Quoted from dts:Are the newer playfields still showing pooling and chipping? I’m considering a Pre. I’ve lost track of the progress on this and thought I’d just ask here. Thanks for any input.
July 21 build (pro) and no playfield issues. I would suggest you double check tightness of the posts, however. I’m not sure if stern is leaving them a little loose to avoid the clear coat problem, but I’ve had a couple loosen up a little over the last couple of weeks. Particularly the one in front of the 3rd flipper.
Quoted from ElkGrovePinball:Related to this post, I think my slings are actually over-sensitive. So the question is, how do you make finite adjustments to the sensitivity? Often times during a mode or Escape Nublar Challenge, the ball will get into the slings and it seems like 5-10 valuable seconds are lost while they are doing their back and forth thing. Often when I have two balls trapped and try to do an up and over separation, the slings will fire. Has anyone else experienced this?
I believe the slings are triggered by leaf switches. Press on on your sling, and you will see where there is contact being made between the two “leaves” on each switch that are on either side of center. To make that sling less sensitive, you’ll want to increase the gap between the leaves in their resting position. There is a special tool for this, but it can be done without it.
I’ve found that small adjustments can make a big difference in sensitivity.
Mine are also pretty sensitive, but I’m guessing that was how they were intended by design, but I could be wrong in that.
Quoted from Pinballpal:[quoted image]
My flasher behind the helipad sign does not work can somebody tell me if it is wired correctly.
Looks correct (matches my working one). Maybe swap lamps with the other flasher to see if it’s a lamp? Then go from there
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:Just need a "Papo" brand pteradon figure from Amazon, and a piece of metal coat hanger properly bent and painted black. That's it! You can make it more complicated, but theres no need to. Mine is rock solid.
Same. Bent the wire to shape and secured the one end under a screw head (used a longer screw) and put the other up his...uh...visitors center exit.
Decided to put him behind the helipad sign so the wing could mostly block the exposed flasher.
821D412B-37E3-46D1-9A23-5FED12925272 (resized).jpegADFC72DB-4914-4B06-9972-2FD4B2A22EB4 (resized).jpegQuoted from dimthedaylights:Just joined the club. My first NIB premium. Been following the forum but if anyone has any quick suggestions on what to do right away so I can make an order I’d appreciate it! Titans and replacement balls already ordered.
Coil stops would be a good idea. Many, many stories of the stock ones failing early. I had some on hand when my game arrived and I replaced them before I ever plunged a ball. Also, I’m a couple of hundred games in and the stock stern balls look fine so far, FYI
Quoted from seenev:Anyone else have an led board installed the wrong way in the raptor pen? The misalignment has been bothering me and then when I looked closer I could see the pcb sticking out. I'm guessing it was installed backwards. Is it easy to get in there and turn it around? I haven't gotten around to trying it yet.
[quoted image]
Installed correctly, but has rotated its way out to where you can see it. Simply push it back under the plastic and tighten the screw right behind it, while holding the nut below it with a wrench (not sure what size). There should be enough room that you don’t have to remove anything.
3FE4B313-240B-4ECB-8C50-56FB77A42FD6 (resized).jpegQuoted from mcvetyty:Hey everyone! New to the club this week - loving it so far, but have a couple of questions to see if these items are normal as I unfortunately have a couple defects on my playfield...
1) My ball has gotten hung up on the spinner gate a couple of times - is it normal that the metal rod from the gate stick way out towards the back of the machine? See image below - ball gets stuck right at the point of the arrow.
2) Often times when the ball is popping around the amber pop bumpers, the gate to the right of them will flap open and the ball will actually sneak out of that gate instead of going out the far right to feed the top flipper - is that normal?
3) Finally, how common is it that a ball shot through the spinner should end up in the pop bumpers as opposed to spinning around to the top flipper? I'd say mine does this more then 3 out of 4 times..[quoted image]
Im currently not at home, so can only answer one of your questions confidently: The Gate in the pop bumper area is indeed designed to let the ball out on occasion. As quoted by the designer “to keep you on your toes”.
Quoted from EaglePin:Nice! So maybe +5 for the first one and then Clear Paddock for the next one. Gets you a 3-fer!!! Awesome!
I seem to remember hearing on a stream that the first smart missile will have the +5 rescues and, if you hit it, the next SM will have the option for extra ball in place of the +5. I’ve always gone with +5 on my first just so I can unlock that EB for my second. Plus, as stated before, that +5 can push you over for a rescue EB.
Quoted from brickbuilder14:That makes sense. But when it does shake, it SHAKES. Ive been trying to find videos of other machines to compare but couldn't find any. Just wanted to make sure mine is not abnormal
Short answer, yes! It will shake like an asteroid hit the earth in anything but minimal setting on the game and in the original configuration. You can move the weights on the motor (I have the Pinball life motor-I assume its the same). Mine were in mirrored position right out of the box. That configuration and max setting was rattling pictures off my walls! Moving one weight about 90° And changing settings really mellowed it out. Fiddle with repositioning weights and settings to find your sweet spot
Quoted from jandrea95:As others have mentioned a custom firmware with video is available for the premium/le. I only have the pro but the audio project turns this into a brand new game, its incredible.
Are you saying there’s an audio package available for the pro? I was under the impression it was only for premium/Le owners. That’d be great if so!!
Quoted from jandrea95:Yes sir, the prior poster mentioned who to message. its incredible.
Read through the message he sends you, he links a very simply explanation of how to create the new SD-Card, and how to keep your old settings, high scores, etc.
Quoted from mcvetyty:Yes, the amazing audio package put together by Tim is available on all three - you must direct message him timlah79 to get it. The latest one that includes video clips from the movie is only Premium/LE.
Here's the thread for the audio project if you're interested in learning more:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-jurassic-park-2-custom-code-project
Awesome! Thank you! I was really bummed thinking it was unavailable for the pro.
Quoted from Markharris2000:So you have a week or so to compile a set of MUST DO's. Let me start you off by suggesting that you immediatly getting an order into Cliff to get his shooter-lane protector kit. Everything else can wait IMHO, but playfield damage is possible day-1. You could/should also turn down the coil strength for the ball trough coil (maybe just under 200 or so), but the stainless steel protector would be the right answer. Place the order today.
Then you can look at: 1) a washer under the left shooter ramp steel tong and lower the shooter autolauncher coil to 200 or so, 2) putting a non-metallic washer under the post at the tip of the third flipper. (Cliff has a new carbon fiber one for a couple of bucks you can get at the same time).
Lastly, over the next few days try to go find a mechanics ignition miniature open-end wrench set since you'll need that to adjust a few playfield posts and other items, INCLUDING the post I mentioned above in #2 which is mounted underneath the flipper assembly itself. Regular wrenches will NOT fit since the space between the playfield wood and the underside of the metal flipper bracker is very narrow! The aforementioned wrench sets actually fits in that space.
I would add coil stops to that list. Many stories on here of the stock ones failing
While we’re on the post sleeve discussion, what are you all using for tapered sleeves? I bought the translucent sleeves (I forget the brand) from Pinball life and I like the feel, but they’re not tapered and I’m getting a fair amount of gnarly hit-the-glass air balls. I’d like to go to tapered and could use some recommendations. Thanks!
Quoted from weaverj:i have superbands, too, and i feel like the airballs calmed down over time. i barely get any now.
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:I'm using Superbands non tapered and I dont have any issues.
Looks like that’s what I’m using also (just checked). I have not lowered my flipper power from factory settings, however. I know a lot of people have.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Just received my custom built Titan ring kit for JP Premium: https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/view/id/1475
Stupid question, but I've never owned a Stern - I assume the post sleeves are to be installed where they taper from thicker at top to thinner at bottom?
I also highly recommend their clear cling on button protectors to protect the artwork around the buttons over time from wear due to rubbing with hands and oil transfer. https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=63&product_id=138
The mod pile is growing! I'm going to be very busy once my game finally does arrive in late October.
[quoted image]
You are correct-Thick on top. You’ll see that the stock rubber sleeves are installed that way.
Quoted from davijc02:Well shoot! Maybe one day they will be available for the pro.
There is an audio only version for the pro. Way worth it!
Quoted from Powerhouse47:That the little nub? Need to clean or replace?
Replace. Pinball life has them for around five dollars. I would replace all of them
Quoted from Medic:I replaced the stock fan with the low noise one. Does anyone know if you can manually test the fan? I looked in diagnostics and couldn’t find it. I just want to make sure it’s working properly since it hasn’t turned on yet after 10 min
I just replaced mine last weekend and had the same experience (what felt like a long time for the fan to come on). I placed a scrap of paper towel on top of the fan and walked away to do other stuff for about 20 mins, came back and the towel had blown off. Replaced the paper towel, played my other machine for a bit, came back and the towel was off again and the fan was running. It is REALLY quiet compared to the stock one! Patience...
Quoted from RGAires:Maybe is normal, can you guys tell me some events, when the shaker is triggered? maybe that way i can confirm it. Thanks
I notice it in the truck hits (like you mentioned) but for sure during the T-Rex events. Biiig shake when he roars at the beginning of event.
Quoted from gorditas:I suggest taking off the glass, and testing each ball. If you have one or two with a wear imperfection that causes any type of wobble, you will have trouble making the shot. Also, on my own machine, if I don't pull the plunger all the way back, I often don't make the loop. You then need to adjust the auto ball launch to match. Too strong causes rattling rejects, and too soft can't make the loop.
It seems like there’s no one perfect solution to this problem. I recently tried some adjustments and ended up with my auto launch at full power for best results. Still not 100% but much better. I have a plan for tweaking the forked metal ramp, but am trying to find a replacement first, in case I screw it up in the process. Can’t seem to find one anywhere. If anyone has a clue I would sure appreciate it
Quoted from Sluggo39:[quoted image]
Aaaaaand who makes it? I’m also curious as to where it plugs in. I have a light kit from a previous game that I’d like to try and integrate. Looks great btw!
Quoted from palmab03:Are you generally not supposed to be able to hit the tower shot unless you have some speed coming around? I'm a bit annoyed that I can't hit the tower shot with the ball coming slowly out of the pops, but I don't know if it's a feature or a bug. I can occasionally get it up there but it's like a 5-10% shot. Most often even a clean nice shot just doesn't have the momentum to make it up there, and my flipper settings for that flipper are on default (Max).
Some here have had a problem with the ball hitting the left (lower) mounting screw on the metal flap at the ramp entrance. I’d start by looking there. Roll a ball around and see if it hits that screw. Maybe try to get a slow-mo video.
There have been a few solutions that I’ve read-filing down the screw, lower profile screw etc. A search will help you find those. I, personally, removed the metal flap all together and put a piece of Mylar at that transition point. It has improved my ramp shot success by quite a bit.
Quoted from Manny65:I don't see any target switches having a -20. Are you talking about 9-SW-20? This is the address Node board 9 Switch 20
I’m guessing they’re talking about the small numbers that are printed on the plastics. I have no answer as to why they’re there-I have a 17 year old Ripley’s, and they’re on those plastics also. I personally think it looks cheap and unprofessional.
Quoted from mcvetyty:Guys, come on.. These are the re-order numbers and literally appear on every single machine since the 80's. Every machine that's ever built has a prefix, and then every plastic, metal, piece, or sticker within that machine has a suffix so that when you're trying to find a part years later you can intelligently (or not apparently) tell someone what you're looking for.
As an example, Jurassic Parks prefix for any plastics is: 830-1038-XX and the XX is the number you are currently asking about. So if you want to replace the t-Rex plastic over the left slingshot, you'd look at that number (which is -86) and know to ask someone to order part: 830-1038-86 if it ever breaks.
Every sticker on the machine is the same way.
I stand by my statement, but would like to clarify that I think it is unprofessional that the part numbers are where you can see them. You can’t put that part number on the bottom? I’m sitting in my car typing this right now, and looking at every piece in here. I assume they all have a part number. I assume that part number is somewhere on that piece. I can’t see any of them. My point is that it’s unsightly. Particularly being that it’s on the art pieces.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:I don't think "unprofessional" is the right word. Every pinball manufacturer prints the part numbers on their plastics. By definition, the companies that produce them set the methodology and standards, thereby making it "professional". You may think it is tacky, but definitely not distracting. When you stare at a plastic and look for it is it visually pleasing - no. While you're playing a game have you ever been distracted by a part number on a plastic, decal, or playfield as you eyes are tracking the ball - I seriously doubt it.
Do I wish that artist wouldn't mark their art by printing their signature over the top of it - sure. Is it unprofessional - quite the contrary.
Point taken. I’ll go with tacky as HELL then lol
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:I think the main issue is that pins are thought of as products by those that manufacture them, but for many of us home buyers they are decor and works of art.
I agree. And it seems to me they could do just a few more things, that would cost very little money, to make their “product” a lot more enjoyable for the home buyer.
Quoted from Hokie822:Got my together today... wow!! Loving it. Now I have the day tomorrow to start adding the accessories! I did have a issue playing a couple games tbru it. My ball is getting stuck in the. Raptor pen.. like the post won't release it after the game. Throws an error and if I shut it off and back on it will start searching for balls...and eventually release it. Thoughts ?
Do you have a pro? Are you referring to the up-post to the left of the pen (in front of the control room target)? If so, try moving that post up with your hand from under the playfield (POWER OFF!). It may be rubbing and sticking on the edge of the hole, not allowing it to go back down. I had that issue with my in-lane up post and had to move the post mechanism a little to get it to work consistently.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Phase 1 is complete - the game is in the house! First impressions are that this games is even more beautiful in person.
Next it's going upstairs and setup will begin tonight.
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Would be even more beautiful without those numbers on the plastics..
Just kidding
Congrats! Enjoy! It’s an addictive game
Quoted from Hokie822:Thanks. Looks like I need to move it a little. Lot of resistance when I try to manipulate it. Sorry for the novice questions. Been reading up since I ordered it, but now its in my hands its a bit unknown. I am a complete newbie here. Thanks guys!
Not sure if you will need to go this far, but I will share it here for anyone else that may need it.
My post was not aligned correctly in the hole, and I could not get it to work right by simply bending/adjusting the coil bracket. SO...I removed the bracket entirely, realigned to the proper position (a partner to watch from above helps a ton here), marked and drilled pilot holes and re-mounted the assembly. IMPORTANT: fill the old holes with a matchstick or other hard type wood (not bamboo) before drilling new holes/sinking screws. Hope this helps. Picture shows original (unfilled) holes with new holes marked.
Note: also had to relocate the the set screw for the nearby t-nut.
Edit: this is the in-lane up post
0BF91D04-D819-48BB-9038-8AA580F2A09F (resized).jpeg
Quoted from apayne82:I'm planning to place an order for the December batch of JP Pros. To fellow owners, are there any must-do preventative mods to prevent common issues? Just saw a post calling out the rail by the tower (on the other side of the raptor pen), and it causing playfield damage. Want to be sure I have needed parts on hand to install right after unboxing.
Coil stops. Very common issue. I read enough about them failing that I just replaced them before I ever plunged a ball.
Quoted from Hokie822:Hey guys.. what are you using to wax your playfield? I have large hands and they don't fit too well between objects. I basically get the main area but I cant get in to the harder areas. Was thinking of something like a toothbrush with a rag? Not sure.
I’m not a waxer, but I use these for cleaning. They can get pretty much anywhere I can’t get my fat fingers!
And I just use old t-shirt scraps wrapped around the end.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B281SLC/ref=cm_sw_r_oth_api_fabt1_h4kSFbWX6CD0P
Quoted from Hokie822:What does the match number on the egg at end of game mean? I did a search and came up empty.
When a machine is set to pay-to-play, if that number matches the last 2 digits of your score, you win a free game/credit
Quoted from zeldarioid:It seems to occur when set to Free Play, too! Is a bit obnoxious, but oh well
Yes, it does lol
I meant to say that it awards you a free credit when on location. At home it just wakes everybody up
Quoted from embryon:I have a spike 8 way splitter without an internal power supply. Would adding speaker lighting and under cab lighting and maybe some led lighting for a custom topper be too much stress on the stern power supply etc. What have people installed using such a splitter?
I have (I believe) the same one and I have led backlighting, one playfield spot and led trough lighting installed on it so far. No issues.
Quoted from embryon:Thanks, I have read somewhere it can only take up to 2amps in total so how do leds rating fit in there
If I remember correctly, it’s about 120 watts=1 amp. So, at 15 watts per meter (3.28 feet in American) you could theoretically run 16 meters of leds on that circuit.
Edit: I just now saw Markharris2000’s post. I didn’t do the math, but I may be wrong here. Go with his formula
Quoted from KC_Green:I'm sure this issue has been brought up before, but could someone please direct me to the best post regarding troubleshooting the launcher? Ugh.
Only 2/5 balls are making up the chopper. I maxed out the strength for the auto-launch with little impact. When I pull the plunge all the way back I get 3/5 making it up the half-loop. It is very annoying to lose out on the standard skill-shots, right flipper feed, etc.
Thank you!
I would add to the great suggestions from Manny65; Take some slo-mo videos at different angles of the ball launching. This really helped to show me where and how it was getting off track.
Regarding extra balls, I’ll pass on what I have drilled into my own head: First smart missile-hit action button 2 times for +5 rescues-often immediately lights extra ball (if hit, obviously). Second smart missile-hit action button 3 times for extra ball award (if first s.m. was a successful hit). I do it without looking now, which is pretty helpful if in the middle of a multi-ball.
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