Jurassic Park (30th Anniversary LE)
Stern, 2023
Jurassic Park (Limited Edition)
Stern, 2019
Jurassic Park (Premium)
Stern, 2019
Jurassic Park (Pro)
Stern, 2019You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider FatPanda.
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Quoted from mikehoss1414:In da club...born a week ago
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Please report back on any playfield issues (bubbling, clear chips, etc.) There hasn't been 100% consensus on the "JJP Stern PF issues" thread that the problems have been fixed. I've got a Prem coming in August so kind of anxious if there are still problems.
Quoted from jsitaly42:I think in his mind he was ready to part with it, then his kids and wife gave him grief. I just wish he didn't PM me until knowing for sure first. We went back and forth on text for a week, negotiated, he sent me pics etc.
Then pass on it and get a Premium. Same game underneath all the glam. Like the others have said, you could still glam it up, just don't expect 100% return on the the mods you put on it.
Quoted from zeldarioid:Welcome to the club! This game is an absolute blast!
I've played the pro many times on location, but haven't played the Prem as much. The T-Rex is awesome! Definitely adds a different dynamic and interaction with the the game. Also the raptor pit adds another element of danger that isnt there on the pro. Its definitely a great game!
Quoted from nicoy3k:May be a stupid question.,.
Is there no bar in the cabinet to hold up the playfield when lifted up?
No, there is not. That's what the rails are for. Otherwise, the playfield is in the fully up position.
For an easy screw "mod" add a couple dozen to your next parts order.
https://www.pinballlife.com/ramp-screw.html
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Hmmm, that's a good point which I didn't realize. Plus I do plan on mounting my pteranodon above the wire loop in that area.
Looks like the fossil record of pterosaur tracks is quite rare, so difficult to tell what their tracks actually look like. The few articles/pics I have found show they were quadrupedal with 5 flanges on their feet - 4 main ones (here's a pic where you can see a crooked forelimb print and a hindfoot print).
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Here is my updated version with pteranodon tracks. I just went with the hind feet in a layout that suggests the animal hopped instead of having an even walking gate.[quoted image]
it's kind of awesome that you're actually looking at the fossil record to accurately depict a flying animals' footprints and movement patterns. 
Quoted from nicoy3k:thanks
Another question
Do the GI bulbs twist or pull off? One of my bulbs near the flippers keeps going on /off when I flip
Pretty common in Sterns. They are bayonet bulbs and twist, but I wouldn't be surprised if you had to remove the flipper plate and resolder the wires back on. I've had to do it to many Sterns games, same bulbs under the inlane guides.
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:I installed my shooter lane cliffy on the outside, but when I had it apart couldn’t figure out the circled bolts. How do they come out? Pic attached
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I believe there is a nylon nut underneath, and you have to gently pound it out with a hammer. I think it's been covered a couple pages ago.
Quoted from finnflash:Tittles? Yes, more tittles!
If you didn't know, a tittle is the dot on the lower case letter i and j or other markings over other letters
ImmenseFearlessCockatiel-size_restricted.gif
Quoted from stork:Updated to Ver 1.03 . Would like to go back to 1.02 . It is not on the Stern site anymore. Where can I find 1.02 ??
Let us know how it goes. There's been speculation that since V1.03 includes a node board update, that you can't revert back to 1.02. Gotta ask, why do you want to go back if you're not running custom code?
Quoted from Green-Machine:Can you put custom code back on after the V1.03 update?
That's what we're trying to see. The custom code available right now by timlah79 is running of off V1.02 code. With the node board update on V1.03, people are speculating that you might not be able to switch back once the node boards are updated. timlah has said that he's not going to update (can't anyway because Pinball Browser is blocked on 1.03 I think) so it's kind of a moot point I suppose.
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:Also following. I'm still on 1.0 out of sheer laziness. I'd like to get the extra callouts and tweaks up to 1.02, but dont want 1.03 if there are issues. No custom sound on mine to worry about.
You can at least update to 1.02 without any issues.
Quoted from fooflighter:You can switch back and forth with no problem I've done it with all versions including the recent 1.03 back to 1.02...
oh, that's good. So if you wanted to try out 1.03 to see the updates, but wanted to have custom code loaded up on another card, you should be able to switch back without any issues.
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:1.02 is no longer on sterns site though.
Yep, the links are literally just a few posts back 
Quoted from MikeS:I haven't tried this, but if your game isn't bright enough couldn't you just replace all of the GI bulbs with Comet 5 SMD insane bright leds in sunlight white? It would be a much cheaper/stealthier way to improve the brightness and visibility on your game. I can see just fine on my game even in complete darkness but I think I'd prefer going the stealth route vs. putting on spotlights or big strips of lighting that put "zebra stripes" all over your game.
I replaced the bulbs with Comet 2SMD in natural white and added 1 spotlight to the left sling, and it is plenty bright. Not a fan of pinstadiums on any game and I have yet to encounter a game where one or two spotlights couldn't fix any lighting issues. Even on my WoZ, which is infamous for being a poorly lit game, I only needed 2 spotlights and a trough light to sufficiently light up the playfield without using pinstadiums. And of course, for a fraction of the cost.
Quoted from rapidflipper:If you don’t want to spend over $20 on the Jurassic World helicopter, this model is the exact same shape, and has a nice color scheme. I just used black marker on the alien decal and fits the theme (see photos of before/after). $8.50 shipped from eBay. Planning to add this to my Pro that will arrive before Christmas.
ebay.com link
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Thanks for posting this. I found a yellow/black one that is the same
ebay.com link: itm
Finally got around to installing the chopper mod. Spent way more time on it than I thought I would lol. Thanks Mr_Tantrum for the tutorial! My blades aren't spinning as well as they use to and I made sure to install the washer/bearing/washer stack correctly. My initial thought is the the bottom washer is binding on the helicopter itself. Does the whole stack need to spin freely or just the bearing? Any other thoughts?
20201228_105946 (resized).jpgQuoted from Mr_Tantrum:For my install, there is room for the entire stack (washer, bearing, washer) to freely turn. Not sure what else it could be with your install since in my case the chopper is just sitting around the stock assembly. I would suggest looking to see if/where the washer is touching and then sand/grind that area away just a little to avoid making any contact with the chopper. This way, the blades should spin exactly the same whether there is a chopper installed or not (i.e. if you make the adjustments and it still doesn't spin correctly then you have some other problem).
I can simply test it by removing the chopper and ensuring that the spinner spins freely. I bet that I have more grinding to do.
Quoted from Wilberto757:I wanted to make my alternate translite have more of cool white background so thanks to Markharris2000 for the very simple idea of adding cool white led strips to the back haha.
Right now they are plugged into the service outlet, im just a stuck on how to get them to turn on and off with the game(using the service outlet they are just ON even when the game is off). Im guessing I can do some soldering and wire them into an existing 12v line that is getting power but im trying to think if there is a simpler way im not thinking of. I have speaker lights as well and im thinking of somehow wiring them into that, but the main brick powering those LEDS says 24v. Any ideas?
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The simplest way would be for you to solder wires from the existing LED strip to the new LED strip that you have running around the backbox. Neg to Neg, Pos to Pos. Would take 5 mines with a soldering iron and some wiring.
If you don't have any spare wiring, I would recommend a roll of this
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B009VCZ4V8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title
Quoted from Goyomex:Haven't run into the issue just yet, but is the recommendation to switch out the coil stops proactively or simply have some on hand for replacement when needed? Any other items I should stock up on? And where's the best place to buy?
Thanks in advance for the assistance.
Have them on hand and replace them if you notice lack of power or gold dust in the cabinet. I get most of my parts from Pinball Life, Pinball Resource, or Marco Specialties. I find PBL and PBR have the best prices.
I haven't had to replace the coil stops in my NIB with around 700 plays on it but I do have spare stops on-hand. My guess is they will last until it is time to do a flipper rebuild, since they haven't failed on me yet.
Quoted from Oleboy:Has anyone else had an issue with black lines of dirt or something in the inlanes? I keep cleaning it but it comes back after a couple of games. Seems like some sort of residue keeps pooling where the ramps drop the ball at the top of the inlane and then runs down the inlane and front of the flippers in perfect lines. Is this normal? I will add a picture as soon as it builds up again.
Ball trails? Just keep it clean every now and again. You can wipe the dirt that shows but you won't ever get rid of the ball trails.
First thing is empty all the balls and insert the correct number of balls. Next check that the trough jam and shooter lane switches work properly in switch test. My bet is that it's one of these.
Quoted from zr11990:I dont understand buying a pro. They is nothing one them and they dont compare to the premiums. If I couldnt get the one with everything on it I just wouldnt buy it.
Because for some, the Prem isn't always the better game. I have JP Prem, but have DP Pro and TWD Pro. I feel like the Pros play better than the Prems for those games.
There also might be a cost consideration. I'd rather have someone be able to buy a Pro at a lesser cost, than to see the price of a Prem and not get anything at all.
Hope that gives you a little insight on why.
Quoted from Audioenslaved:I get why you see DP and TWD as pro games but for me they’re premium/LE games because of those few extra items on them.
Deadpool I had to have the loop that came back to the right flipper. It just didn’t feel right being stopped at the pops every single left “loop” shot. And the stand ups are also a nice addition. The disco ball and the action figures are neither here nor there.
And twd well I LOVE my LE and was lucky enough to buy one before anyone thought anything of them! But the RGB inserts, lift up ramp, extra brutalising magnet and even the crossbow are the added extras I love in the game that I can’t stand to be without and when I play a pro I feel like I’m missing them.
I do completely understand why you don’t need those things either. I haven’t played a tmnt pro but the added extras to the Le I don’t think are absolutely necessary but I haven’t played the pro to find out.
The point of it was that everyone has their preferences, and there are plenty of people that don't think the Prem/LE are always the "best" models, myself included.
Quoted from zr11990:I just can’t hit the helicopter shot and you have to have it to capture the animals to finish some of the modes.
What's your flipper alignment like? They should be just a touch droopy, which would make the "S" (helicopter) shot a bit (just a bit) easier. It's still a late shot on the left flipper.
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:Switch gap was double checked when I reflowed the lugs. There’s a good contact between them.
Node board!?? Crap, I hope not. Would that be intermittent though?
Is there an EOS switch on Spike II games? I haven't really had the need to examine flipper parts yet *knockonwood*
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:There is yep
And that is making good contact as well? Checking with a DMM?
Quoted from Driz1847:Anyone ever have the newton ball fall off its post? Is there a way to reassemble it back on or is it broken?
Thanks
It mounts through the playfield. If the ball itself is detached from the post, then you'll have to replace it. Got any pics?
Quoted from Driz1847:[quoted image]
You might be able to fix that with some good epoxy. Did it look like it was threaded in? I'll be honest, I haven't had to take mine off or inspect it for any reason. If you can take to post out from the top of the playfield, I would say epoxy the ball back on. If for whatever reason you have to pull the post through the bottom side of the playfield (having to take the ball off to do so), then I would see if Stern would be able to send you a replacement (which they likely will).
Quoted from Seirif:Yep this happened to my JP as well...and also recently happened on Iron Maiden. You can pick up a new newton ball/rod from pinball life or marco.
As far as repairing, epoxy maybe?? (I wouldn't try it, could be disaster if it gets on the playfield). The ball is press-fit on the rod...so once they go they are pretty much done.
I would definitely take the entire piece out of the playfield and do it on a bench
Stern code, custom code, the game is still great with either one. Don't let the inability (potentially) to run custom code keep you from buying or enjoying this game. It is masterful. One of Stern's best in the last 5 years.
Quoted from J85M:Made this with a mate, new an improved version at the top, removed “king of the island” and replaced it with “super tranquilliser” and enlarged the spino as he was too small on the original.
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This looks really great! I've been lowkey looking for an action button plaque.
Quoted from J85M:Happy to take feedback on these, I felt super tranquillisers was the main use for the button so felt that was better than “king of the island” and the larger spino was a must.
If you have any suggestions though would love to hear them, I was thinking of adding select on it somewhere as I have done with my Mando design but didn’t think it was needed.
I would say just remove the text and have the 2 dinos with the scenery. You also use it for Smart Missile, and Control Room modes, so have Super Tranq is a bit too specific? Or have "Jurassic Park"?
Quoted from Jediturtle:Yeah I agree. Love this concept compared to any of the others I have seen, but I wouldn't want Super Tranq on it. I liked the original "King of the Island" but simply "Jurassic Park" would be great too. Not sure there would be room for "When Dinosaurs Roamed the Earth", but that would be cool too. Maybe "Life Finds A Way", "Chaos", or "Hold on to Your Butts"? I guess for me I would rather have a themed quote/tagline than trying to label what the button does (especially since it does multiple things).
Either way though...cool design. Well done!
Vote for "Hold on to your butts" 
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Grand Rapids, MI