(Topic ID: 248582)

Jurassic Park (Stern 2019 & 30th) Owners Club. Welcome! To Jurassic park.....

By CoolCatPinball

4 years ago


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  • 21,284 posts
  • 1,408 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 hours ago by JorgesArcade
  • Topic is favorited by 765 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

17 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #326 Rules tips and info on some wizard modes Posted by sk8ball (4 years ago)

Post #365 Printable Instruction cards for the pin Posted by PinballZach (4 years ago)

Post #366 The first Full Unboxing Video Posted by ZMeny (4 years ago)

Post #425 Feature Matrix of Pro vs Premium vs LE Posted by CoolCatPinball (4 years ago)

Post #468 How to qualify control room modes Posted by jonesjb (4 years ago)

Post #2298 Keith Elwin explains JP rules Posted by MRG (4 years ago)

Post #3040 Raptor target not registering or "ghost" registering, possible fix Posted by Jesder (4 years ago)

Post #5270 make the jeep work well Posted by CoolCatPinball (3 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#296 4 years ago
Quoted from HighProtein:

It wasn't there...

Stern no longer ships the cable in the game to carry 120V to the door from the backbox. Your distributor should have some on hand or call Stern and ask them to provide it for you.

#312 4 years ago
Quoted from ryanwanger:

For me, the post at the tip of the upper right flipper is constantly coming loose. I’ve tightened it three times already, and the last time it had completely come out less than two hours later.
Any tips?

I am having the same problem, and am going to try Loctite. No room underneath to attach a nylon nut as the post is directly under the upper flipper bracket, and the existing post doesn't extend past the bottom of the playfield anyway. We will see how that works out. Might have to cut a notch in the flipper base plate and try something else if Loctite doesn't work.

#328 4 years ago
Quoted from DugFreez:

It surprises me that they have included the cable for this long (since SPIKE 1 WWE). I would expect the vast majority of people never use the cable, so it seemed pretty strange that they included them with every game.
Does anyone know if JP is the first game to not include the cable or was it dropped awhile back?

JP2 is not the first. I believe it was several games back when Stern stopped providing the cable in all NIB games. There was no announcement, Stern just stopped providing the cable, but Stern will send the cable out if you call and ask for it.

1 week later
#1112 4 years ago
Quoted from Da-Shaker:

I purchased the longer thread, but decided against it. After measuring, I didn't think it would fit with the nut. People might not like it, but I just used JB Weld and screwed it back in, then added a green rubber to it.[quoted image]

JB Weld might end up working out just fine. I decided to apply a fix that should hold up and be serviceable, too. Took a spare flipper baseplate, ground some material off of it, installed this flipper baseplate in a slighter different position, maybe swiveled it about a half inch to fully expose the t-nut. Now there is room for a longer post with a nylon nut holding it in. Used an old post from my parts bin that has a longer male thread. This is a location game and I just didn't want to keep messing with this post.

#1136 4 years ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Do you have the details of the longer threaded post? (Where and what?).
What about drilling a hole in the base plate to allow for the longer thread with nut?

I used a standard sleeve post with a #8 thread, using a nylon nut to fasten it on the bottom. I saw a similar post on pbresource.com in the post/screw section. I looked at using a drill and decided it would be easier to just use my bench grinder. Couldn't work on the baseplate in the game as I didn't want to get metal shavings all over the place, so I knew the baseplate had to come off anyway. That section of the flipper baseplate is a curved edge and would be difficult to drill, it was a snap using the grinder. I always keep spare baseplates so I reworked the spare and changed it out for the original baseplate.

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