Great placement.
Where does the figure come from and how did you mount it?

Just told my brother the exact same thing. Lol.

Maybe.
But I have come to expect not much from Stern toppers except big prices.
But every once in awhile we get a Batman. Black Knight or Game of Thrones.

They are on Amazon for about $9
Just search Papo Pteranodon
Here is the link if it works.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GL1BHO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00

Here is ours I posted in the Premium thread. It is a must have mod. Really finishes that side of the playfield off and fits perfectly.
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That metal guide flap is correctly placed on our game. Though it is not pulled that far away from the outside rail, so there is no gap like in the photos above.
I have tried the washers under the screw as well changing to an orange spring, but getting the ball to go up the horseshoe turn is maddening.
Out of 10 plunges, maybe 6 or 7 will make it. Sometimes less if it is in a bad mood.

I'm sure we could use the same screw that has been holding down all the Bally/Williams ramp flaps flawlessly for years.
I can't for the life of me figure out why a round top screw would ever have been used here.
Also food for thought. I bet that ramp flap would be just fine with no screw in that hole at all. But I would try the grind down and flat head methods first.

This game is spectacular with shaker motor and Sub. I totally agree.

We went with the Pinnovators headphone jack that has a dedicated sub output, and man does that damn T-Rex roar.

And probably my favorite shaker motor use is at the start of every paddock when the up post catches the ball, the game goes over the paddock instructions and then the Jeep starts it's engine. Pay attention, and the cabinet shakes exactly like a car starting up. Love it!!

The second file does indeed look like it is still zipped.
But as long as it looks like this jurassic_park_le-1_01_0.spk.002.001 You are good to go.
It is only zipped if it still ends in .zip

.

On this particular game the flasher lights are also used as GI a lot, so they are always mostly on and not always flashing.
The best option on this game as per PinStadium themselves is to hook the Flashers to the shaker motor plug.
If you have a shaker motor installed you can just use the little wires that come with your pinstadium kit and then hook the aligator clips to them.
I will try and get a photo of the setup in a bit for you.
But it works great and the UV flasher lights only go off with the shaker and are not on all the time like most flasher lights on this game.
**Edit**
Here are two photos to show both ends on the flasher hookup. (Yes, you need to clean up the alligator hook up ends so there are no Exposed wires for any shorts to occur.)
Our whit wire is in the left most plug and our black wire is on the far right plug.

C6166FA2-9D31-411C-A00E-51292995F2D9 (resized).jpeg

5B137099-D8CD-4BA6-8B18-DA93E18F7900 (resized).jpeg

As I stated. This will need to be cleaned up a bit. It is not hard to do.
But to make sure you like it first. This way is just fine.
I agree a piggy back is what is really needed here.

More then likely these.
Have not tried them yet but I have plenty on hand.
https://www.pinballlife.com/ramp-screw.html

I will try one today and report back for everyone.

Ok here we go.
I have photos of the screw from the game next to the one Bally/Williams used on all their games.
And a photo with it installed.
Here are the results.
Is it better then the rounded top with ball clearance?
Yes, but just slightly.
No matter how tight you screw it down it will only go so far because no counter sink.
The ball still clips it but just barely.
However you have to put it so tight that it causes the ramp flap to pop up a bit on the other end.
I have now gone back to original screw.
This hole really screams for a counter sunk hole but we have no choice but to play the cards we were delt.
4DE72C36-065A-4577-86EF-80E5C647E15C (resized).jpeg1E06A140-38F4-41D0-8516-41B42506866F (resized).jpeg

Agree.
That is the only type I had on hand to test out.

Yes. It is just the optos at the entrance to the ramp.
I would still love to know Stern's reasoning for putting the optos so low down in the first place. Would make a lot more sense, at least to me, to have them in the center of the ball. No more ball hopping over the beam and the ball will certainly never dip under the beam. lol.

Congrats.
And given your location, it should keep your mind off of the Murder Hornets.

Anyone have a link to some good alternate instruction/pricing cards for this game?
I have only seen 1 or 2 so far but nothing that has grabbed my attention to print up.
I would think a title as popular as this would have tons of cards available, but I just can't seem to find them. Even in the custom apron cards thread.

We did the same thing but had the opposite feelings about Perfect play and Superbands.

We found that the perfect play were way to grippy and not slippery at all and introduced more ball spin then any other flipper rubber.

Superbands are slicker and keep our ball spin to a minimum and allowed for the best game play on our Premium. Also had just the right amount of dead bounce. Not to bouncy and not to dead.

Did OGA find a work around for Sterns breaking of the code? Nevermind, I went to the thread and just saw that he indeed did it. Yes!!!!!

It is in the second Adjustments menu. I forget what Stern Calls it. Maybe feature or Game adjusments?
Anyway when you get in go backwards through the menu as they are at the very end.
Don't forget that higher numbers lower the volume and lower numbers raise the volume. It is backwards from normal.

Just removed the entrance flap to the tower shot in my game today.
Holy hell, what a difference. The tower shot is now smooth as butter every time.
Should have done this from day 1.
It's like we have been playing with a huge handicap forever and now the shackles are off.

Either way will work.
But just easier to remove the flap for me and be done with it.
No matter which option is chosen, just do it. The game plays so much better without the rattle.

This is how I tested my game as well.
I could feel the ball hitting the screw head.
Tried a flat head screw but the hole is not counter sunk and the ball still hit it.
Pulled the damn thing out and life is a dream.

Had to clean the rod the other day on our Jeep because it was starting to get sluggish.
Raised the playfield and loosened the set screw on the metal tab that breaks the opto beam.
However unlike everyone else mine would not just pull off. Could not get it off with pliers or even a flat heat screwdriver wedged between it and the plastic bushing. The only way to get it out was to use a philips screwdriver and a hammer and knock the rod out. And even then it took a lot of force to move.
I am guessing whoever used the locktite on the set screw at the factory really got carried away with the amount.

That would have been great.
Went back on easy, but man it was glued on super tight. lol.
I even took the set screw all the way out just in case.

No Thanks.
Sticking with my Premium and real movie code.

Just upgraded to 1.11 yesterday from the 1.05 movie code.
I of course kept a separate SD card so I can go back whenever I like.
That said I agree with the post above that Stern put enough goodies in the 1.11 code that truly enhance the game play experience.
We had a blast playing co-op and vs.
And will certainly keep this code installed , which I did not expect to ever say.

There is a bug however in the vs. code that caused a hard game reset.
Can’t remember exactly what triggered it but we were in a 2 vs 1 mode on ball 2.
One of us drained the ball and the the screen just froze and all playfield lights went dark for about 30 seconds. Then the game just rebooted like it was just powered back on.

So far we have had two complete game resets with 1.11
Once during a 2 V 1 game and once during a Co op game.
The Co op Crash happened during our live Twitch stream so we do have it documented.

Our Twitch channel is ThePinballMafia

The bonus countdown that the complete game freeze and reboot occurs is at the 1:04 mark
It happens on Player 2 of a 3 player Co Op game.
The entire bonus sequence plays but the game freezes when it shows the final total.
Hope this helps solve the mystery somehow.