What code version is on your game?

Keith talks about DNA and the scoring exploit on tilt forums.

"It’s a bug. They’ll be back soon along with Super Combos. The scoring exploit he describes he just keep shooting raptor pen. I’m guessing a poorly set up game."

Sounds like they will be back.

I've been told April and put my order in Jan 1. I was told this by Stern specifically as a rewards buyer but I also saw a very respected distributor post that same timeline to someone looking to buy a game. Word is that if it's not in stock it's looking like April. if it makes you feel any better Keith himself posted on Tilt he was still waiting for HIS game. Super happy for Stern that they have a title this hot again but really surprised in the gap in builds for it unless they are having issues with a vendor on getting them parts they need specific to JP2.

Agreed. Original date was Feb before it being pushed to April.

Yes. I believe there may be two more additions coming. One for getting all fossils and one for beating all the "mini" wizard modes. For some reason I was thinking "When Dinosaurs Ruled the Earth" was the one for all fossils collected. I quote "mini" as if another is added for beating (not just playing) all the other ones then that would be the WIZARD mode.

Here is what I was told (as was also told Feb for my delivery). The batch of prem for Feb mainly went overseas and the remaining orders went to distributors with orders in. So, if your distr was one of the ones to get some of that Feb batch then it's possible. For the rest of us, April seems to be the date now. Only way for you to know is to call your distributor to see if they are getting a batch in right now. If they aren't getting it now then chances are high your order is pushed to April as well.

Anyone (or a dist) with better info feel free to say I'm wrong if you know different. This is what I've just pieced together from my conversation with Stern and the Dist I have spoken with recently.

My JP2 is coming through the Stern Rewards Program, which most likely gets lower priority as it is but I did talk to a couple other major Distributors and were told April from them as well. I had thought about keeping my rewards purchase for later in the year and just CLing that order and going the normal route for JP2 thus the calls to others after having my order placed.

I wonder if it would be worth while to cut a piece of mylar about the size of a nickle and install it there and then put the post back in.

I had suggested (on tilt forums) a skill shot for: TREX, Right Ramp, Upper Loop, Tower. I wonder if that is it or if that is now a skill shot too. If not, I hope it comes at some point as that is so much more rewarding feeling, even if the upper loop first is an accident

I wish. Still waiting for my game Ordered first of Jan and am on the April delivery batch.

Waiting too. Jan 1 order. Last I heard was April delivery.

Happy for you but I don't understand how people with Jan orders still haven't heard anything. I was Jan 1 and it's been silent.

Pretty common on Sterns for those lights above the flippers to go on and off. It's because the bulbs aren't super tight in the base. When I run into that on a game I generally takes the inline guides off, take the bulbs out and bend in the top of the bulb bases enough to make the connection tight. DUE WITH GAME OFF.

What is your definition of recently? I know it went up in Jan. Are you saying it went up again since then?

Not sure why the debate/confusion. The game designer has personally said repeatedly that the game was designed and play as intended at 7 degrees. I'm listening to him over anyone else at Stern.

After 6 months of waiting look what finally made it today I tell you what though. My daughter had better know how much I love her though as I wont be able to set it up tonight since she has a softball scrimmage tonight. Some things are more important than pinball but that's testing it!

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I had a meeting cancel this PM so I was able to at least unbox it to check things out. Not enough time to get upstairs and set up but enough to at least make sure all looked good. She couldn't wait either and helped. Here is a cool thing I noticed. Real wood bottom of the cab. Wonder if that is a permanent change for Stern.

Looking forward to getting it upstairs and set up to play.

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Wow, talk about being under a rock I just got my Deadpool in Feb of this year so I must have got an old left over cab.

Got my game set up last night after my daughters softball scrimmage. My wife was a trooper as both of our kids were begging to play. As such we stayed up late and got the game upstairs and set-up for play. Got a couple of games in and I was impressed with how it played without dialing anything in. Everything worked properly, while I do want to dial in a few things for smoother play.

You know what is more fun that JP pinball? Apparently making some home made tents out of the box and sleeping in them over night. My kids have always enjoyed the boxes but this one takes the cake as they were still in them this morning when I woke up.

P.S. - We wont talk about the mess they crated making this

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Got things dialed in tonight and was able to play about a dozen games with the family. Crazy fun game. One game I'll get 20 million and the next 400 million. Ended on a good note though.

I'll say this has been my best NIB game since my AC/DC quality wise. Nice PF and everything worked out of the box. Just tweaked a couple things to make it smoother.

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Yes, 6/05 is my games build date as well. I'd be lying if I didn't say I was super nervous getting one of the first games built after the factory re-opened but it seems to have worked out.

I started off that way but I'm finding rescue streaks to be just to important to risk losing in a MB so have actually tried to not stack in a paddock with any of them. I do like to stack the 2nd and 3rd control room modes with a MB. The first one (I don't remember their names so just talking in order on the screen) I haven't had much success with stacking since it requires you to hit the control room every other shot. MB and the T-Rex modes seems pretty valuable as well.

Yes, I'm aware you can play the control room in any order thus I try to stack the 2nd and/or 3rd (again not order of play but order on the screen as I don't remember their names) with a MB. The first one is really hard to complete if you have more than one ball in plays since you need to hit the control room every other shot.

There is a lot more value in streaks than just the points (additional awards, increased scores in wizard mode, etc). For me I prefer to keep my streaks going as the point values are better the longer you keep them going and I find it is a lot easier to focus on MB jackpots or Paddocks when they are separated. Really hard to hit specific shots with 3 balls, or more, in play to be successful in the Paddock and it's hard to focus on MB jackpots when you are trying to rescue people and capture a dinosaur.

Let's also not forget the good points that come from perfect Paddocks.

Yes.

Edit - Looks ectobar beat me to it.

I literally just got mine in today. My hope is to find some way to use this helicopter instead of the plastics for my prem. I can't stand the way it looks and figured for the cost it was worth a shot. Thinking of using my drill press to drill a whole through the helicopter, sliding it over the shaft that the blades spin on and then maybe even replacing the factory blades with some clear ones that I can put the matchbox blades on. Will see what happens...

Got it installed and functional on my Prem. Man that was at major PITA! Looks much better than the plastic though.

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Yes, it's at the very beginning of the move to where they capture the Raport in the Raptor pen. This is probably why the insert says capture as well. Then, later in the movie they talk about how the Raptors are testing the fence by attacking them (thus the animation when trying to build towards MB and why the ball is held on the premium). Then when the fence is down (all the lights are flashing in the game) the Raptors escape with their next attack on the fence (from the movie) and they escape (the gate lowers). I think it does a pretty good job mimicking those aspects of the movie IMHO.

For where the ball comes out at. On mine:
- weak shot to the target = trickles out to the left flipper. If the ball doesn't go all the way up and hit the target it will most of the time hit the top of the sling
- solid shot to the lane/target = comes out to my right flipper
- Shot that is captured by the post = left flipper every time. I can dead bounce it to the left flipper as well if I want.

Yup, that will diffidently do it. Another thing to check (which is less likely to be an issue if you added a protector) is the sensitivity of the shooter lane switch. If it's to sensitive it can fire the auto plunger to soon (before the ball settles) that causing erratic launches during ball saves and MB situations.

Nope. Mine was a June 2020 build and it had those same screws. I hit them all with my bench grinder and made my own flat screws. Works great now

There are so many different ways to play this game this is actually a pretty hard one to answer.

For me, I focus on trying to get perfect paddocks for the added scoring bonus plus the added points for rescue streaks. These are where you collect the dino but also save all the employees. You don't have to save them before capturing the Dino so for the first couple paddocks this is pretty easy to do and the perfect paddock bonus is 15millionish alone, not including the added rescue points. The next thing I do is focus on control room modes. The restore power one can be crazy valuable if you shoot the spinner a couple of times before starting to collect shots. Shots start at 3 million but each spinner shot it goes up rather quickly. The virus attack mode is worth about 100 million itself if you complete it. If you can find that left shot it's actually pretty easy to complete.

The other tip, for the T-rex MB. Do not play that MB at 500K (the first value) collect 3-4 of the build up shots first to get that starting value at 3 million or higher. This isn't all that hard to do. I normally do the spinner, to tower to helipad shot. Then straight to the T-Rex. Now if you collect the jackpots in order you are looking at some really good points as they double each time.

I actually don't focus to much on Chaos as the scoring isn't all that good until you get to at least the second stage of that MB, which for me isn't all that easy. Plus it makes collecting your dino's much hard with all the balls in the way.

Lastly, if you can hit that right ramp consistently, shoot it as often as possible. Every 4th shot starts Pteranodon Attack. Start it then avoid the right ramp for the first couple of times you play it. Focus 100% on the spinner shot as switch hit's build it's multiplier which carries over. This is an overlooked scoring opportunity. Colin M, Karl D and I focused on this strategy a couple weeks ago to see how much we could exploit it and they were able to score 3 billion and 5 billion from this mode alone. Us mortals aren't scoring that high but if you play the first couple buy building the multiplies only and the 3rd one you build up the value (again, switch hits which will also increase multipliers) and you collect in the last couple of seconds of the mode (right ramp) you can have a couple hundred million alone from that.

Not sure about his install but I had to put mine in that direction or the tail of the helicopter would get in the way of the ball. For the Prem/LE you can't move it around as the blades have to line up to where the spinning blade mech comes through the PF. On a Pro you could easily go either direction.

I used to say this but I'm at the point now that I regret buying a premium. I like JP but have come to hate playing my premium because my T-Rex is the most buggy mech ever. Mine never lowers it's head at the same location and thus no matter what "adjustments" I make it only catches the ball about 10% of the time and in some cases even roadblocks my game completely requiring me to drain the ball in play to progress. The roadblock happens when it lowers it's head outside the right side of the ramp for a T-Rex mode and you need to make the left ramp (it's neck blocks the ramp). God forbid you play a mode where multiple shots are needed to the T-Rex head, like Museum Mayhem. I've been there close to a dozen times and only had a chance to complete it once due to these issues. I used to watch Esther L streams and he had the same issue and just turned his head off. Stern fixed his, I guess because of who he is as they are just ghosting me on it and my PF issues on this game. I refuse to turn that feature off as I spent nearly $2K extra for it and a single moving wall but it has a mind of it's own. Sometimes lowers outside the ramp on the left or right side of it. Sometimes being in the middle but not lowering down far enough to touch the ramp for the ball to make it's mouth and sometimes it's perfectly aligned on the ramp.

Not trying to come off negative but until Stern get's their service head out of their A$$ I wouldn't recommend a game with extra features to my worst enemy.

I agree, that I got unlucky and wouldn't say they are all like this. The problem is Stern's lack of response to fix it. On JP there are only two gameplay differences with a prem/le and the pro. Those are the TREX and the lowering wall. When one of those doesn't work it's hard to swallow the extra $$$ spent on the game. I've spent $20K on new games in the last 18 months and am getting this type of treatment and thus why I no longer recommend the Prem to people that ask me.

Mine is also a June build. I just looked and has pooling in all the spaces that multiballmaniac1 and you have. I also don't have shooter lane chipping though but I also put mylar in the shooter lane day one that I got the game.

Yeah, been working with Chas and Patrick for 1.5 months now. Basically since I got the game. Got responses the first day or two asking for pictures and I sent that and videos. Since then, ghosted

The lower flippers align to the center of the bat to the center of the alignment mark. The upper flipper aligns to where the center of the bat is to the right of the alignment mark. In the picture above, it should be on the red line.

Pinwolfer is your best option. By far the best sounding kit out there for these games. Not cheap though.

The keyless ones are nice if you don't have kids. For a replacement, there is a number on the lock which corresponds to the correct key. You could contact a parts supplier to see if they could sell you the keys for that lock number. Honestly, would be easier to just replace that lock with a new one. Super easy to do.

For adjustments (you'll need it with the keyless ones too). You can adjust the tension of the lock by bending the locking arm in or out. In to make it tighter and out to make it looser.

Damn TREX roadblocked me yet again last night. This happens 100% of the time I make it to Museum Mayhem. So frustrating as it blocks me from progressing through the game and to possibly get to Escape Nebular. I know I can play that wizard mode with the flipper code but I want to play it the first time by earning it. Other TREX modes I can get past with the head not allowing me to catch the ball as the mode will time out but not this one.

Sometimes the head goes down on the left, sometimes the right and sometimes in the middle to where it is supposed to go. All the game adjustments make no difference.

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Unfortunately no. I messed with it as well as a couple others that were loose.

They have clear as well. I have them on my game and like them.

https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-300-0141-00

Here is mine completely untouched from the factory setting. If anything mine are a bit low which for this game is actually a good thing. The lower the flippers are the easier the "C" and "S/Helipad" shots are. It makes center shots harder but I can hit the spinner and both ramps just fine with a clean shot. I your more concerned about flipper power, I don't think this is your issue at all so I wouldn't touch yours.

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Friend of mine got the topper. All he did was plug it in. It did a node board update on first boot after installing it. There is an enable topper setting as advised above. It should default to on but make sure it is turned on. If you didn't see the node board update nor is the topper working you may not have installed it correctly or it could be defective (seeing you are overseas the shipping could have damaged something bouncing around that long).

The topper should have GI lighting on - Is that working?
When you start your first game the first letter should be blinking - Is it doing that?
After you collect your first dino the first letter should be solid and second one blinking now - Is it doing that?

If the above 3 questions are all yes then it is working fine. Once you collect all letters you have to hit the supply drop target to start the mode. It's a flipper count mode (not timer) so don't just randomly flip or you will end it really fast. Only allows for 40 flips. For the cost of the topper (and the mode) I hope they do an update to where you can at least add more flips by hitting a specific shot or collecting a goat to make it more fun and more worth while.

I've seen this on 2 different examples to where the gate gets hung up on the pop bumper cap periodically. Check for clearance there. As stated above it is a one way gate but it will allow periodic balls to come back through it.

I can't remember if it was this thread or another one but I mentioned bending in and out the claws of the shooter mech individually to dial in your auto plunged balls and someone wanted to see what I meant. Here is a picture of my Deadpool that was shooting the ball into the left rail constantly. By bending in the left tab just slightly inward it now protrudes ever so slightly further than the right tab (against the ball) and thus pushes the ball slightly to the right at launch. Because it now counteracts whatever was making it shoot into the left wall it now goes nice and straight.

My tip for getting a straight shooting autoplungers is to always start with those two tabs perfectly level across and centered on the ball. Watch the path of the ball real close (ideally in slow motion) to see what it may be hitting to get it off center. Then adjust the tabs to push the ball slightly the other direction. This has worked really well on all my games with this design of the shooter claw. On the older version (that doesn't have the cross brace) it didn't work as well as the tabs wouldn't hold their position very long.

Worth a shot for those that have a really bad auto plunger but the manual plunge works well.

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He's not meaning it is by design to get hung up and allow a lot of balls past but he had the choice to put a coil controlled gate there or a gravity held one way gate in place. As such, it is by some sort of design that it let the random ball out periodically due to pop bumper chaos. That is how I take that.

***edit. I keep forgetting Keith is on Pinside. so see above....

- topper letters start goat mania

I believe this is the setting that must be on for the letters to work. The 3rd setting should be an adjustment for the number of flips you have in goat mania. If the 2nd adjustment is set to on and it still isn't working I would:
- Take glass off, start a 4 player game and manually collect 12 dino's successfully. Since you've already played some games you may not need 12 if you have collected some dino's already. Doing this should progress through the topper letters and light the mode. If the mode lights (supply drop target flashes) and you hit that switch and it starts you know the game recognizes the topper and it's a problem with the light board. If doing this it still doesn't light and start the mode it's a issue with the topper not communicating with the game (assuming you plugged it all in correctly).
- Knowing the above you can then contact Stern and have a more educated conversation with them about what is happening as you already did some basic testing and have the results.

Can't speak for all your post pass but the one in your video was not the fault of your flippers. It was improperly timed for a post pass. The ball hit the left side of the star post in that video which threw it more up the left lane loosing all it's momentum. For the post pass to work properly the ball needs to hit just slightly to the right of that post center point. Your ball took the yellow path I made below. It needs to take the blue path.

Post up a video of the ball in a cradle shooting the spinner and right ramp. Seeing that will tell if the flipper is lacking power or not. One other thing to look for if you hit the timing right and it still doesn't work. Make sure that post is tight without the tension of the rubber. If it's loose it will absorb a lot of ball momentum.
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Check to see if you are getting 5V (I believe that is what the GI is on this game) to it. If so, replace the board as it's gone bad (pretty uncommon). If not getting 5V then look for the break in the line as it could have gotten damaged at some point.

One wire is power and the other is ground. Only the power line would be at 5V. My assumption is it worked at some point so confirming you have power now, that tells me it sounds like a bad board.

I'll just add to the above a bit. Some games you want to stack a MB with a mode to really blow up the score (like GOT and the Lanister-Greyjoy stack) while others it's better to play modes outside of MB. In JP I feel it's better across the board to play modes by themselves and MB on their own when possible. The MB's in this game require precision shots to get to any worthwhile scoring ops plus when in MB it makes completing Paddocks harder (at least for me). That Heli Pad shot while in MB always kills me plus the faster dinos seem to always get to the workers before I can trap up and effectively shoot the more precise shots like the raptor tower, C, O and helipad shots. Scoring really comes with methodical shots and focusing on completing each thing you start. Each side mode (TREX, Control Room, pterandon, etc) can be very valuable if played well but can be real hard to do when to much is going on.

For instance, I pulled this one off last night using the focus on one thing at a time strategy Still no Escape Nebular though as my Dino keeps blocking shots. Turned it off and kids got POed at me so turned it back on until I get a replacement... I was super excited about that score, then a friend of mine sent me just his Pterandon score and I realized I still have a way to go to take him down if we ever get to play in leagues again... I'm sure some of you may recognize his initials.

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Both

At home I use my real initials of BEH. In league, Route games and Tournaments I use ZOE. Zoe is my daughters name thus why I don't use it at home.

Mine blocks more along the lines of 60 (blocks) vs 40 (can hit the shot) so maybe I should be taking advice from you For me, I've been working with Stern. Going to try a replacement but it sounds like it's a couple months out. They are thinking hardware issue with mine at this point as it's REALLY bad. Not an inconvenience because you have to shoot it more than once to get it to stick in it's mouth. It's a situation to where the mouth is not even close to the ramp and the neck actually blocks the ramp too, type of thing.

There us and I did that. My kids complained so i turned it back on.

I try to avoid the collect until ball 3. Multiplier is on the lid during the mode. It increases by spinner hits so dial in on that and you're golden. I like go spinner, to tower, ski pass back to right flipper, rinse and repeat. I think it's the 1st fossil that adds 10x to that collect too.

It does carry over. That's actually my strategy, which is to start it as many times as possible ball 1 and 2 without collecting. Then on ball three, with ideally the first fossil set collected (adds another 10x to the multiplier) I then shoot as many switches as I can in the timer and then with about 5 seconds or so left shoot and collect it. Had a collect for a tad over 300 million last night.

Nice score! If you made it to visitor center that is where taking your time through all the modes really pays off and is the main reason why I avoid MB's with other modes. My Visitor Center bonus is normally in the 700-800 million range. Main reasons why is I really focus on completing as many control rooms as possible as well as the TREX modes. Doing so will get you several fossil's. Next is focusing on collecting every employee for every paddock you play. I see a lot of people collect enough to get the dino and then focus on starting the next dino right away. Take the extra time to collect the remaining employees. In the earlier dino's it's easy to collect them without losing an employee so getting the perfect paddocks isn't hard to do. Doing this also helps with your rescue streaks. Also don't take the easy path through the island. Try to play as many Dino's as possible. Why do the above?
- Each fossil collected is 5 million to your base Visitor Center Bonus. You collect 5 and that is 25 million already, which is really more like 125 (or more due to the multipliers of dino's played).
- Each employee is 750. If you take the harder path collecting 25-30 employees (30 is a wild car fossil too) so another ~20 million
- Each rescue streak is 1.5 million (if memory is correct, maybe 1 million). If you focus on rescues in the first couple modes getting to 12 or 13 at min shouldn't be to hard. So let's call it another 15 million
- DNA combos adds to your base as well (I think it's 2 million a combo but can't recall right now). By now you should have at least 5 so another ~10 million to the base.
Your base can easily be ~70 million doing just the above. Take the harder path to the center and that is 7 dino's so a 7X multiplier of your base. So doing just the above is ~500 million just for starting the mode.

Since most of your fossils are awarded for completing control room and TREX modes not only do you get the added bonus for completion but you are also scoring some good points in those modes themselves. It all adds up quickly

Let's just say, he's won a Pinburgh Championship

Snailman - Sure am looking forward to you kicking my butt on the regular again some day. I think I miss those monthly league days more than the actual tournaments.

Snailman hit it. I generally don't use my friends real names on forums out of respect for their privacy. Nothing more, didn't intend for it to be taken as crappy so I do apologize if it came off that way. I wanted to say something so WizardsCastle had a real good hint snailman is no joke and not to feel bad for not scoring like him.

As for me. Generally nobody cares who I am. I've never won anything but some local league events. Probably won't ever win a tournament as I'm to inconsistent at that super high level. I do like to make people squirm though. On my good days I'll give anyone a run for there money. Bad days, well not so much Here is me - https://www.ifpapinball.com/player.php?p=13559

I'd really love to but the cost to get a decent rig is crazy. I've got an old camcorder I could try but it would probably look pretty lame.

It's called stage flipping.

Tip to learn how to do this. This happens because there are two switches on the stack for the flipper button. If you increase the gap of that second switch on the stack it makes the upper flipper slightly less sensitive. In other words gives more room between lower flipper activating and the upper one following. Doing this and practicing helps your brain figure it out. You can then tighten it back up as you get comfortable with it as the looser that gap the longer the delay in flipper activating. Thus you want it tight but learning on a tight stack is really hard and frustrating.

I 100% prefer stack flippers. They feel different than opto as the stack provides some resistance to pushing the button in and also have a less likely chance of complete failure. Some things aren't due to cost cutting IMHO. Flippers is where I prefer the "just keep it simple" approach. With stacks you can adjust sensitivity, stage flip and if it fails it cost less than a buck to fix. Staging a flipper is a huge skill to learn as it allows you to continue to shoot the whole PF while in MB with a ball cradled to. Some games can be extra frustrating when they have opto flippers and/or designed not to stage. Biggest example I can think of would be Congo MB.

On the topic of flipper stacks and staging. Ironically enough, a lot of games (predominantly Maiden) came out with the flippers reverse staged (the lowers dropped before the uppers) in error. That was fun learning in a tournament. I quickly learned to test that before playing now.

A modern game doesn't know if you hit the button hard or soft. It's just a switch. Once it closes it sends a signal to the CPU to fire the coil. The main difference from what you are talking about is that when you are playing with soft hands it takes a fraction of a second longer to close the gap in the flipper gap than if you are pushing hard and fast. If you are nudging or hitting the game it can effect ball direction and power but that's not because of the flipper plunger it's because of the nudge.

So looking forward to more of this! Well done.

Reseat the data cables going to the node boards. That's the first place I would start. I've found that fairly common on Spike games (especially if you have a shaker motor).

By any chance is this game plugged into the same out as the DP you recently picked up from me? I ask as I saw it froze up on you in the DP thread. That never once happened to me. Since JP is acting up to, I'm wondering if that electric outlet may be having issue with stable power delivery and the fluctuations are confusing the games.

If so, it may be worth a try to use a different plug to see if things improve. Drawing a straws here but figured I'd make the suggestion.

No, that doesn't look right. I'm trying to upload two video's I took of my TREX just now for you to try and report back. I'm thinking the home switch is not working on yours. While those video's are processing, check to make sure this plug is secure as it's the home switch for the head.
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Edit - Go into switch test and move the head slowly left and right. Does that center switch activate when the head is close to the center, over the ramp? If not, you found your issue. Video one here -

Edit 2 - How the head should behave in feature test.

100%, they need to send you a new mech. May be worth checking to see if some of the wires back there are frayed and it's shorting out on the metal mech assembly. If not, something is diffidently messed up with the mech and/or the node board.

If they don't want to work with you tell them to come pick it up as a lemon and then you can come buy my perfect playing one for about a $1500 savings. Only halfway kidding there and hopefully not salt in any wounds I had to fight them for my PF and TREX mech as well back when my game was brand new. I can tell you offline how I got them to come around if you want. Just don't want to dirty up this thread with those details.

If I was confident it was just the TREX mech I'd let you try mine to make sure it works. But, with trying to sell mine, I can't risk a possible node board failure too

Been a while since I looked at that mech but I recall their being a space on the shaft that goes against a receiver. If the shaft isn't the right height that receiver won't get the signal. Kind of like a tone ring. You can see the cut out in the picture below. Make sure you have everything in perfect order.

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Trex head will shake back and for during some modes an situations. Normally it follows the ball track though to where it goes right if you hit a shot in the right of the PF and visa versa.

Does it stop and center when a Trex mode is lit and the times it should be catching a ball? If so, you may be good now. What concerns me most was the switch matrix issues and pf lights that were going out on you.