Jurassic Park (30th Anniversary LE)
Stern, 2023
Jurassic Park (Limited Edition)
Stern, 2019
Jurassic Park (Premium)
Stern, 2019
Jurassic Park (Pro)
Stern, 2019You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider 2manyhobbies.
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Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Next mods are done: upgraded speakers throughout and speaker lights.
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Love the lights. Wish they had a kit like this for the smaller standard speakers.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:And you thought bird poop in the eye was bad.
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Where did you get that MOD?
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Not yet, trying to decide if I like anything in that spot or not. Is it just a decal or does it have some kind of dimension to it? The more I think about it, it's not my favorite. However, I'm coming up blank for an alternative design that I could create. Any ideas from anyone?
One side have a missile blowing up in front of a dinosaur (maybe Trex) other side dart plugging into blue’s neck
Quoted from zeldarioid:It seems to occur when set to Free Play, too! Is a bit obnoxious, but oh well
It’s the pin Gods saying “there is a high score in your future, play one more game”. At least that’s what I hear even though that was my last game’ just finished my last beer and I need to go to bed. But never works out that way
"Get to the Choppa! Part Deux"
Nice MOD. Just found the “choppa” and have it on order. Thanks for the tips!
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:As some of you may know, I created a couple of Barbasol can mods for the DE Jurassic Park. Around the same time, a couple of versions were being developed for the new Stern JP. One was interactive with exposed vials by flashinstinct and another was a flasher cover by Mezel (I developed and sold both styles for DE JP). Unfortunately, I know that @flashistinct had a limited run and is no longer producing his version. As a new owner of the Stern Jurassic Park, I wanted to work this element into the game somehow. As a courtesy to flashinstinct , before I started down this path I first communicated with him to see if he was okay with me designing a mod that was similar to his, and he gave me the thumbs up.
While I've been thinking about the mod for a couple of weeks now, I finally started modelling today. I wanted to do something smaller in scale so that it wasn't visually overpowering, yet still representative of the Barbasol can in the movie, and proportional to the real can. My idea ended up being to replace the Control Room dome flasher with the Barbasol can while maintaining the OEM flasher to illuminate its exposed vials.
I just finished 3D printing prototype alpha (i.e. my very first trial print of my first design), so I wanted to share it with everyone. This version is not the final, but just a proof of concept.
Based upon this trial, here are the updates I'm going to make to the model:
- Increase size so that diameter is the save as the hole in the plastic
- Add some additional height at the based so that the threads are visible and not completely hidden under the plastic
- This will make the overall model 1cm taller than what is pictured
- Add tab to base so that it will be mounted to the same screw as the current dome is
- Print the vials in a semi-translucent chartreuse color (filament is on order) so that they actually have the appearance of illuminated and will be close to the color of the liquid in the movie
- Can abnormalities will be fixed
- Barbasol label will be applied
I'll be making myself one of these mods regardless, but before moving forward too much I wanted to gauge interest from the JP ownership group. I know some of you already have the flashinstinct original and some have purchased the Mezel version too, so this mod wouldn't be for you. However, with the recent new wave of JP owners I thought their might be a market for a Barbasol can with exposed vials. My estimated selling price will be around $45 including US shipping (international shipping will be on a per quote basis). My target date to have the mod finalized and ready to show/sell is within the next couple of weeks. I'm not taking pre-orders or requiring any payments at this time, but please let me know if you might be interested. When the time comes, I will offer these "on demand", so there will be no limits set on the quantities I will be selling.
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Sold.....I am in. Was going to experiment with some mini cans and try to develop myself but the more I thought about it I really would need a 3 D printer. Your version so far looks great and is in the right spot for this machine. I am in!
Quoted from Gogdog:Also, I need to do some planting too. Is that just some hotglue holding those trees on?
No just some of the plastic bumper pads with a hole drilled through that some people are using on the top lights of the raptor cage. They are not sticky enough so I have to get some two sides tape to get these trees planted properly.
Quoted from JMCFAN:Nice what Brontosaurus is that and how did you mount it?
Got it off Amazon here is a link:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M3P8FK5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_IpUWFb5X15Y0V
Also got some wire off Amazon to mount the pterodactyl and brontosaurus. Here is a link for that: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002WXGIHC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_IvUWFbQ11971Z
Below is how I mounted this
Start with cutting his head making so the height is about 4 1/2"
Brontosaurus Head (resized).png
Then I drilled 1/16" hole so I could bring the music wire through.
Music wire (resized).png
Then drilled out one more 1/16" hole so I could bend a hook for added stability, then added super glue around the wire shaft before pulling down into place. Added a eye ring hook to the end and made the wire 2 1/2" long.
Eyring hook (resized).png
Then removed the one screw at the back of the helipad ramp and put the eye ring at the bottom of the black post. You may find it easier to loosen the other screw with the black post closest to the side of the machine so you have a little more wiggle room to install the eye ring.
Then it is just simply getting the head positioned the way you want then tighten the screw down along with some bending of the wire so you have the head the way you want it, I like it so the head catches the spot light. I plan on planting a tree to cover up the wire on the back side of the helipad and also plant a tree so it looks like he is about to grab a snack.
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I think it give it a bit of balance now having 4 key dinosaurs on the playfield
layout (resized).pngQuoted from Gogdog:Just a reality check. So, how smooth is everyone's spitter spinner to orbit? I swear most of the time when taking a center shot, that it is really clunky and dribbles when hitting the orbit ball guide, and more often than not goes into the pops instead of going around the orbit to the right flipper.
Should it go to right flipper most (80%+) of the time on successful center shot or is this a known clunky shot?
Mine seems pretty smooth. Like anything with this game needs to be a good shot but to me the spinner shot is one that is very satisfying, as the sound and rotation seems to go for ever on a good clean shot. I think a few people have had to bend up slightly on the spinner, maybe yours needs a little adjustment.
Quoted from billsfanmd:Think I found a JP a few states away just working on transport. Before I pull the trigger if anyone near MD/PA/VA pulling trigger on selling LMK. have cash or another great KE pin, IMDN
Operation pinball has new Pros in stock, I highly recommend them! free fast shipping and of course no tax, that is who I got my premium from last month. They sent it with in 3 business days. But the premium right now is a tough to find used or NIB. Good luck!
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Update 12/3 - 2:10 pm Central | All choppers are spoken for. If/when the time comes and someone passes, I'll let everyone know how many are available.
I was perusing the internet last night (I know, it can be dangerous), and came across a lot of the matchbox dino transport choppers. Since they are getting nearly impossible to find, I ended up buying 6 of them at a good price. Of course I don't need them, but thought I would snatch them for the group. I'd be happy to resell them for $18 each (including US shipping).
Even though I paid, I'm still a little skeptical if they will actually make it to me as the site where I bought them is rather obscure. Anyway, please PM me if you are interested in one and I'll put you on the list. The first 6 to respond will have one reserved for them. If/when they do arrive, I will then contact each person on the list for first right of refusal and payment.
FYI, the choppers (and the truck) are new and unopened in original packaging. BTW, I will only sell to those that meet the suggested age requirement on the packaging.
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LOL that was a great deal you were able to get these guys. I bought mine off New Egg a few weeks ago, only place I could find it at the time, and it was $25. Should have my light upgrade in the helicopter sometime next week thanks to you and the instructions! Thanks brother!
Quoted from Da-Shaker:I haven't been following this thread, but why is my JP Pro code update not looking like the one on You Tube? Im not seeing any of the movie clips.
If you are looking for movie clips ect you need to get the Tim code. Just ask him to share, burn to a SD card and donate some $ to him, it is well worth it and takes the game to a whole new level. Search for the following thread to get the details: Stern Jurassic Park 2 Custom Audio Project
Quoted from Da-Shaker:Thank you. You are very kind compared to the last guy.
LOL. Yeah I know how overwhelming it can be. You will still be overwhelmed with that thread but a lot less pages. Start with page 26 of the thread. Key rules do not ever share his mod, and read from that page to 30 and you should have all the details you need. Good luck!
Quoted from Gogdog:Any ideas here? My ramp cover plastic keeps coming loose. I can loctite the front ramp posts since its a screw going into metal, but this last screw is just going into the plastic of the microswitch.
I was thinking of maybe just putting a dab of hot glue on top of the screw? I don't really need that back area "tight"...but need the screw there so the ramp metal flap on the side of the ramp stays in place.
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Did you have this apart at some time maybe replacing rubbers or something? Mine does not have the black spacer under that rear area.
PXL_20201206_025229007 (resized).jpgQuoted from Gogdog:This is what it looks like on mine now.[quoted image]
Not sure if under warranty, maybe contact Stern. If not I don't see a bolt on the bottom half of the switch, but fearful of taking apart incase I get loose screw. Maybe a longer screw with a nut or order the switch if the thread is built in because that glue looks ugly at this point.
Quoted from Kenswift:Took the plunge and ordered a Pro! Should hopefully have it by the end of December. Also got the code form Tim. The only real criticism I saw was the lack of movie callouts and that fixed that! Whenever I go to the arcade this is the game I come back to.
That code makes this the best game ever! I love some of the older games and remakes but they don't beat this game out in my book.
Quoted from gaubster:Does Tim’s code work with the latest 1.03 code? I’ve had my Pro for about a month and the last I remember reading is that it hadn’t been tested with the latest update at that point. If so, I’ll consider upgrading to his code.
Yes he just updated his code for the 1.03 code. It is awesome
Quoted from Gogdog:Looks great! What did you use for the clear washers at the bottom of the trees?
Yeah used these clear plastic/ rubber washers I got off Amazon, drilled a 1/8" hole in the center, I liked the idea of clear not to block what little art work on the plastics. Oddly enough I first tried super glue, no luck would not adhere, I could glue my fingers together but not plastic and rubber LOL. Then tried model glue, same result. Then went to Lowes and got some DAP Rapid Fuse with primer for $5, which was made for plastic and rubber and worked like a charm. Then used two sided tape under the rubber disc cut out the access and pealed and stuck on where I wanted. I used two sided tape I got off Amazon, the kind you can remove if needed, just in case to avoid damage.
Anyways below is some links off Amazon of washers and two sided tape and a pick of the glue I got from Lowes
If you need trees let me know I will sell you mine dirt cheap, shipping plus maybe $10,I could only find a 30 pack LOL and have a bunch left over.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000YZAT34/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_noy1Fb0RBH7A2
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X5WM9L7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_Xuy1FbAVCK06K
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The Raptor Tower ramp screw I could see with mine the ball could hit it also. I was able to put one of these screws in which I bought these at Home Depot. The head profile was just a little smaller , both hieght and width, and did the trick for me.
PXL_20201218_190924712 (resized).jpgPXL_20201218_190934145 (resized).jpgQuoted from Mr_Tantrum:Oh man, I just hit my first ever Super Skill Shot. It's really fun and rewarding hitting the 3 ramps in a row off ball launch!
Now I have to go after a double and triple super skill shot (like I'll ever achieve that).
I got the 4th shot once which is the Triple Super Skill right orbit "O" in chaos. Not sure if anything after that but I want to say it all 4 shots were worth like 18mil. But have not even sniffed that 4th shot, let a lone the 3 shot, in weeks It is so hard but you do feel good afterwards, definitely one of the more satisfying skillshots out there on any pinball machine.
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:I found a small countersink wood screw grabbed well and was perfectly flush.
I was still getting hits with a panhead...[quoted image]
That would have been my next thought but mine just cleared. I would imagine it all depends on how close the side guide rail is. Kind of surprised Stern didn’t design a little different, they could have easily made it impossible to hit the screw, but who knows. A CNC machine may be off by a hair causing the problem on some, I would imagine not all. Either way shot is still a tough one to hit. Was hoping it would have made it easier but it didn’t, I still suck
Quoted from MrMikeman:I suggest you should search the thread. This question is asked and answered every few weeks. Search “buy premium pro”.
Folks with pros will say that you won’t miss anything. Folks with prems will say the trex is integral to the experience. Of the thousands of machines out there i would guess less than 1% have adjustment issues. They are vocal though. My trex worked perfect out of the box and i’ve put almost 2000 games in the 14 months of ownership. No adjustments.
I have also had zero issues with the Trex out of the box. I have only owned mine for a little over a month but I have about 200 games on it. Also before I bought mine I was playing one in route at a place I frequent, and that owner said they have had no issues with any of the Stern pins they have let alone this game or T. rex adjustments.
Quoted from extraballingtmc:Anyone have 1.02 pro code? Can’t get 1.03 to install. Downloaded it 3 times, 3 different sticks, won’t update.
Do yourself a favor and get the 1.03 updated code from Tim, you get the full experience. Search for this thread: Stern Jurassic Park 2 Custom Audio Project
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:I'm confused. Now that I have the head cutoff, where/how to do I mount the body? [quoted image]
LOL. I stewed over this so long trying to see if I could cut the body in half from the spine through the belly and have the tail and legs with the head all in tact but this thing was too darn big. It’s also made out of some pretty dense material, but the sawzall worked pretty good.
Recently bent98 had the idea of painting his Pteranodon blue to match the coloring of the one used on the game graphics. He agreed to take on the project, and I just picked everything up and reinstalled tonight. I must say that Pinball_Gizzard did an amazing job, and I really love how both of the dinosaurs came out.
Wow that looks great. I have extra T-Rex plastics, mine was scuffed up when I got my pin. Wonder if he could spruce it up before I put it on.
Dilophosaurus just added
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If interested search internet for: Jurassic Park Dilophosaurus 6-Inch Scale Amber Collection Action Figure. I got mine on Ebay off a seller out of East Rochester, NY for $40 plus snail mail shipping, which took like 3 weeks. But they still have 6 left. Man toy collectors must cringe every time we hack one of these things up LOL
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Step 1 Cut her down, As you can see I did this just behind the front arms, I think she screamed a little when I did this.
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This was what was left after the surgery
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Then used a 1/16" drill bit and drilled on each side of the spin, there is a seam there so don't drill the center, then hooked some music wire in there.
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Then formed a hook, it is about 1", that will hook on one screw on the back wall
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Loosen screw a couple of turns so you can hook her into place
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Then tighten her down
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Adjust the hands over the sign then it is a matter of if you like her with Spit
With Spit (resized).jpg
Or with out Spit. I think I like her with out spit
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A full view
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And now I am trying to decide where to put this sign, maybe cut down a bit and stick on the back wall just to the right of her but not sure yet.
Sign (resized).jpg
With Out Spit (resized).jpg
Quoted from ProjektPat:I love your setup, where'd you get the other dino toys and how'd you set them up?
Below is a link to my original post on the Brontosaurus, including links where you can buy ect..Also has a link for some music wire to mount the Bronto and the Pteranodon.
Search: Papo Dinosaur Pteranodon Prehistoric figure. I think this one was cheap, $12, but mine came from Germany, I believe, ordered off Amazon but only took a week or so to come in.
I am sure somewhere in this group someone showed a step by step "how to mount the Pteranodon" , but with mine I just drilled a 1/16" hole up the poop shoot and super glued into place. Then formed the wire in a acre and mounted to the front post on the spiral ramp just left of the ramp.
Pteranodon (resized).JPG
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Here is the best price delivered I could find on the Amber Collection Dilophosaurus. Be sure to pick the correct shipping when ordering since "Media Mail" is the default, but you cannot ship via this method per their bold type instructions (you must pick Priority Mail or greater). For me, total shipped with sales tax (which they shouldn't actually have charged) ended up being $46.08.
https://collectorcave.shop/products/jurassic-park-amber-collection-dilophosaurus-6-inch-scale-action-figure
BTW: Not sure why, but looks like Mattel stuck the East Dock sign in a pile of dinosaur droppings.
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Yeah I threw that "Sht" away as they say LOL.
I decided to mount my sign on the back wall behind her a bit, since the Nerdy scene where he spins the sign normally comes up, assuming you have the "Tim code", when you hit the back upper loop. Cool part is the directional sign will vibrate and move positions a little as you play the game. Wish I could get it to spin on que when that scene pops up 
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Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Received my dilophosaurus today. Since I have the UV flashers on my PinStadium lighting, I decided to put a coat of fluorescent orange over the red pattern and eyes to make them pop when the flashers go off. I also hit the outlines and teeth with a coat of white to brighten things up a bit.
With new paint and regular lighting (forgot to take a before pic).
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With new paint and UV lighting.
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Just finished the decapitation procedure, and successfully mounted.
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Thanks 2manyhobbies for the step-by-step guide | https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/182#post-6071863
Looks awesome. Cool idea with the paint!
Quoted from pterofractal:Thank you! That does appear to be a different approach, I might bring the included screws to home depot and see if I can find smaller diameter heads. If I do and it works I'll post the part information here!
Quoted from pterofractal:Thank you! That does appear to be a different approach, I might bring the included screws to home depot and see if I can find smaller diameter heads. If I do and it works I'll post the part information here!
I got these from Home Depot and worked for me.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/172#post-6022448
Quoted from yzfguy:Exact opposite experience here... We played for two days on stock code, then got the movie version and we think it's at least 11 times cooler
Agree with yzfguy. The sound track alone in the "Tim" code makes your heart race trying to complete missions and is sycned perfectly with game play IMO. I give it an 11
Quoted from timlah79:Unfortunate Update: After maybe 10-20 plays at best I opened the glass to check something else. To my utter dismay I found that the brand new "flyball" protector plastic from Ulek had already cracked at 2 of the 3 mounting points (pics attached). When I installed it I was very careful, only tightening these screws just enough, not too much and using washers. The cracks happened during minimal gameplay.
I reached out to Ulek and they said that the plastic they use is the exact same as stock Stern and that it can happen from 1 ball or 100 balls, basically at any given time. It's too bad that this afterthought of the assembly is what it is today. In my uneducated opinion, the most often root cause of cracking is that if you have the "spacers" removed like I do (as recommended by Stern), it requires the plastic to bend more than it should "naturally" and stresses against the mounts. However, even with the spacers included it still has to bend, just a bit less. This puts a lot of stress on all screw points in either configuration. Therefore, no matter what, this plastic is going to eventually crack and/or one's opto bracket is going to break. I think Stern needs to come up with a better solution.
I'm curious if any later model PREM/PROs have had any parts/assembly improvement in this area. If so, please share!
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So far with mine no breakage, have had the game for 5 months so not sure if that would be the test of time just yet. But I have seen some people post pics on this and with my game I have two spacers on top of the two black posts on the entry of the ramp then the plastic on top of that. Not sure if this would help your situation, just thinking if the plastics are too low may get more balls smashing into it causing stress cracks.
PXL_20210115_042454383 (resized).jpgQuoted from Stormfront:So I just placed a preorder for my JP premium pinball and I was curious as to what mods folks used on their own machines?
Here is one I did.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/182#post-6071863
Quoted from Stormfront:So I just placed a preorder for my JP premium pinball and I was curious as to what mods folks used on their own machines?
Quoted from Stormfront:So I just placed a preorder for my JP premium pinball and I was curious as to what mods folks used on their own machines?
And in my opinion get the Tim code. Great clips, sound track, etc. who doesn’t want to see a lawyer on the shtr getting bit in half
Quoted from rai:I'm about to order a JP (premium).
Just curious if these newer builds are the T-Rex working any better than early runs?
If money is no object would you say the premium over the pro?
I have not played a lot, but reading a lot of reviews the only concern for me was someone said the paddock missions are kind of repetitive. I understand the main body of the game is the map-paddock missions so is there enough filler/side missions to make up for anything that might make this game feel like wash rinse repeat?
Thanks
Premium would be my vote. Not everyone has had problems, most likely very few. Nobody goes on here to say mine works great, they post when they have a problem so they can get advise on how to fix. Myself no issues had mine since November last year, and there is one in route around the corner from me which takes a huge beating compared to mine and they have had no problems with theirs. Don't let a few issue derail you from ordering one with this cool option.
Quoted from demandecan55:New machine - I am getting lots of dimples in the playfield. Like ... lots. Is this a normal issue? Every time I look at it I just seen a hundred dents in an expensive machine. It's hard to get a good picture of it, but I assume everyone knows what I mean.
Any tips for flippers/coil power to fix or is that just what happens? I don't have this issue with other Sterns yet. I reduced the power of the right flipper to 235, but that is all. Thanks!
Normal. Don't get worked up over it. Go look at some pins at a arcade, you will see the same thing. Or you can worry yourself to death and go on one of the threads where everyone is complaining about dimples. In the end you will get no where. Just play and enjoy.
Quoted from attyrhodes:Do y'all hit the raptor pen backhand or from the right flipper? On a pro.
backhand seems the safest for me, right flipper if off a little and hit the left post in front see,s to always be a drain
Quoted from Staythirsty:I’m planning on tearing into the T-Rex on a game I just picked up. The mouth won’t close easily without assistance. In game play it mostly stays open. It seems a little bound up like the lower mouth is rubbing on the upper head anyone have an easy solution for this?
Looking at the diagram and some back posts it seems like spacers between the lower jaw plastic and metal mech should do?
Not sure about the binding, but this post helped me on the “how to” get the T-Rex out. I had a problem once with T-Rex not centering over the ramp, just ended up being a broken wire on 1 of the 4 switches for the horizontal movement. Pulling it out the first time is the hard part, I am sure once out you should be able to figure out your problem.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-premium-sleepy-t-rex
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