I’ll take one! Please

Thank you!

To anyone who has removed the truck, can you confirm that the hex holding the post in place is 3/32"?

Mine has been getting a little sluggish and I wanted to give it a cleaning. I have 3 different allen sets, but naturally all of them are in mm and neither 2 or 2.5 works.

Shout out to the U launch ramp. Lifted the playfield but forgot to pull the balls. Heard my mistake as the balls started clanging out, but fortunately they all just collected in the ramp and didn't destroy anything.

Anyone have an issue with the Jeep not rotating as smoothly as it did out of the box?

If so, what's the solution? Some super lube? If so, from the topside or bottom?

Thanks!

Same issue here

Good catch. It’s amazing, beyond simple “dialing-in”, how much physical adjustment needs to be done to make the pin play great. I’ve got mine open about every day to tweak something or clean/wax it.

That'll be right about the time something breaks

That metal guide flap is correctly placed on our game. Though it is not pulled that far away from the outside rail, so there is no gap like in the photos above.
I have tried the washers under the screw as well changing to an orange spring, but getting the ball to go up the horseshoe turn is maddening.
Out of 10 plunges, maybe 6 or 7 will make it. Sometimes less if it is in a bad mood.

Check your plunger alignment, is the tip hitting the ball in the center, or is it putting some English on it... Make sure the plumber is secured, if it's off, you may be able to shim it just a hare with a business card or two between the cabinet and assembly... Also, try another plunger tip... Possibly one from Titan

Has anyone put flat screws on both orbiting ramps instead of the regular screws that come stock? Curious if anyone has done this if it made both smoother?

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Is it me or just odd they didn’t use flat head screws in the first place?

Yeah it's stupid.

The tower ramp screws are ridiculous, nobody checked that ball clearance?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/92#post-5586268

After 2100 games played the T-Rex/Raptor MB stack happened for me last night by accident! It was pretty fun to have it happen. I wasn't even thinking about it when I chose Raptor MB for the smart missile award. I took the shot and it bricked off the truck and ramp post but it came back fast right at the flipper so I tried to send it straight back that direction. It turned into a clean shot at the amber target that probably just barely beat the grace period and both MBs started up. Now I probably only have to wait another 2100 games for it to happen again

Anyone know what flat screw would be the proper replacement, and any comments on improvements after grinding down the current screws?

I would have never guessed the ball could actually hit that with how far into the corner that is. Will have to check mine.

Very cool.
I've only tried a couple times now and haven't pulled it off. I was trying to get the letters first and then get enough rescues, but kept accidentally starting Rex. But as of now, I haven't even gotten the kill shot set up yet.

And...got the shot set up. Brick. Outlane. I can see this is going to be a whole thing now.

Ok so we need to figure out what size flat screw to use

Look up "pancake head" wood screws, that will give you a step in the right direction

All the truly flat head screws I can think of are countersunk. I'm not around my game (or very familiar with it), is that V flap a short one or is it what actually bends upward there? If it is just a short entrance flap, would it be possible to get a different one made that went under the ball guide to be secured on the other side of it?

I just pulled the glass and rolled the ball by that screw a bunch of times. On my pin yes it does touch the ball, but barely. I don't think this is really going to be the cause of that many rejects for anyone. If you are going to dremel it, just a pinch off the right side seems like it would be all you need.

Worth noting again: My Raptor Tower ramp was assembled incorrectly from the factory. The the top habitrails were going into the u ramp opposed to resting on top of it. This made ramp ridiculously hard to actually make. I didn't notice until I was fed up enough to take the plastics off and look at it, but you can check with it assembled. Look through the upper 'windows' of the tower. Can you see the 2 habitrail ends? If not, re-assemble.

If Keith wanted flat screws there he would have specified them. I don’t think that’s the issue.

If you guys are having trouble with the tower shot, 1st...make sure you are 7.0 degrees and level left to right. 2nd. flipper alignment is critical, as Keith Elwin posted a while back, the dot alignment hole should line up with the top of the flipper bat (plastic portion, not the rubber) - this will cause some protrusion into the S lane, but it is critical for nailing the Ramp Tower. I can make the Helix Ramp and Raptor tower back and forth all day long - i got up to 3x's in a row once...when the shot is dialed in, the screw protrusion (slight as it is) on that flap holddown is negligible

Keith likes this

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I checked and the screw on mine is close enough to the ball guide that the ball doesn't touch it as it rolls by. I'm guessing they didn't use flat screws because it's supposed to be close enough to the ball guide that it won't get hit. Bummer that it seems some were installed a bit too far away from the guide where it's getting hit by the ball.

Had another fun shot on my machine today. Got an Escape ball save from a center drain. Ball was coming to the center drain and I tried a left-right flip to catch a piece of it. It spun off the end of the left flipper as it went past, then immediately spun hard off the tip of the right flipper as it continued past that one toward the drain. Then it hit the apron area and it had so much spin on it that it shot like a rocket far enough up the outlane to cross the rollover switch to trigger the lit Escape lane before rolling back down to the drain.

I'm sure we could use the same screw that has been holding down all the Bally/Williams ramp flaps flawlessly for years.
I can't for the life of me figure out why a round top screw would ever have been used here.
Also food for thought. I bet that ramp flap would be just fine with no screw in that hole at all. But I would try the grind down and flat head methods first.

IT'S ALIVE!! Having just gotten my Jurassic Park Premium a few weeks ago, I was beginning to think it needed more. So, I just installed a shaker motor, and more importantly, the Pinwoofer Super Kit. Usually, I don't do much in the way of mods, as I'd rather spend my money getting another title, but JP just screamed for better audio. And wow, does the Pinwoofer do the job - but I guess you folks already know this. I was really impressed with the care that went into the assembling the kit. Everything, and I mean everything, was there and well packaged. The installation was really simple, and the sound quality is great. With those two additions, the machine can almost walk across the floor on it's own. I'm really impressed and thought I'd give Pinwoofer a "without reservation" recommendation. Over and out.

This game is spectacular with shaker motor and Sub. I totally agree.

We went with the Pinnovators headphone jack that has a dedicated sub output, and man does that damn T-Rex roar.

And probably my favorite shaker motor use is at the start of every paddock when the up post catches the ball, the game goes over the paddock instructions and then the Jeep starts it's engine. Pay attention, and the cabinet shakes exactly like a car starting up. Love it!!

No doubt, PinWoofer Super Kit rules. Just got a shaker motor too. Super great, but now I need to quiet down the rattling back glass.

Trying to download the newest code for my pro and run into a bit of an issue. Code downloads like normal and I unpack it as I normally would. However, when I open the folder it has one of the SPKs and then another zipped up file that I can never get to unzip.

Anyone else having similar issues?

Does the smart missile "Invalid frenzy" count towards "Escape Nublar"?

Also TWICE in the same IF mode I hit the C shot and the ball bounced out before the post went up and I was S.O.L. until it reset.
Maybe just a coincidence but I dont remember that ever happening before the update.

The second file does indeed look like it is still zipped.
But as long as it looks like this jurassic_park_le-1_01_0.spk.002.001 You are good to go.
It is only zipped if it still ends in .zip

.

I like the 10" cabinet speaker from flipper fidelity. It really rocks.

Invalid Frenzy isn't a requirement for Nublar so no.
To get to Nublar you need to start Visitors Center, Museum Meyham, and Secure Control Room.

I changed the one to the left with a countersunk (of course the ramp flap also needs to be countersunk to accept the screw) it seems better to me. Also the thing that helped even more is taking the plastic off and shifting the metal ball guide to the outside a little....on mine it was clearly behind the black line and the ball would get caught on the inner flipper rubber and miss the heli ramp shot.....this move clearly made the shot smoother.

On this particular game the flasher lights are also used as GI a lot, so they are always mostly on and not always flashing.
The best option on this game as per PinStadium themselves is to hook the Flashers to the shaker motor plug.
If you have a shaker motor installed you can just use the little wires that come with your pinstadium kit and then hook the aligator clips to them.
I will try and get a photo of the setup in a bit for you.
But it works great and the UV flasher lights only go off with the shaker and are not on all the time like most flasher lights on this game.
**Edit**
Here are two photos to show both ends on the flasher hookup. (Yes, you need to clean up the alligator hook up ends so there are no Exposed wires for any shorts to occur.)
Our whit wire is in the left most plug and our black wire is on the far right plug.

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Don’t know what replacement screw would work but I can tell you grinding down the screw (and it isn’t much grinding) made a significant difference in Tower success rates and the general smoothness of the shot. Doesn’t take as much steam to make the turn.

Those are some bad and dangerous connections. I am not familiar with PS products but I can't believe that is how they tell you to connect. The proper way to do it is use molex connectors and piggy back off that shaker connection.

As I stated. This will need to be cleaned up a bit. It is not hard to do.
But to make sure you like it first. This way is just fine.
I agree a piggy back is what is really needed here.

More then likely these.
Have not tried them yet but I have plenty on hand.
https://www.pinballlife.com/ramp-screw.html

I will try one today and report back for everyone.