New! Dark mode!

Browsing Pinside at night? Getting tired of all the white? Switch to dark mode using the button in the top right (or CTRL-B)!

(Topic ID: 248582)

Jurassic Park (Stern 2019) Owners Club. Welcome! To Jurassic park.....


By Scribbles

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 7,511 posts
  • 688 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 hours ago by RobbyIRL5
  • Topic is favorited by 347 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 1,475 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

IMG_8665 (resized).JPG
IMG_8664 (resized).JPG
2020-10-19 (resized).jpg
IMG_3182 (resized).jpeg
20200908_184355 (resized).jpg
IMG_20201019_203321 (resized).jpg
03173A60-F9DD-4805-9A56-524A5D5926FA (resized).png
D61A022C-BF8E-4937-B09F-C9E6DABD4E04 (resized).jpeg
IMG_3226 (resized).jpeg
JP ST V1 PST (resized).jpg
JP V2 TAPE PST (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg
20201012_155026 (resized).jpg
PXL_20201012_002129905 (resized).jpg
pasted_image (resized).png
PXL_20201011_151245305 (resized).jpg

Topic index (key posts)

10 key posts have been marked in this topic (Show topic index)

There are 7511 posts in this topic. You are on page 86 of 151.
#4251 7 months ago
Quoted from Spyderturbo007:

Anyone have a fix for a truck that doesn't rotate correctly? It spins around just fine, but seems to get stuck about 1/4" away from the newton ball on both sides. Whack the side of the game or flip the flippers a few times and it settles in.
It's the one at leagues. I pulled it apart last night, cleaned the assembly and put a small bit of super lube on the ball bearing washer. It spins around better, but that last 1/4" is still an issue.

Make sure the flange on the end that the switch sensor reads is not interfering a getting hung up on the sensor. The truck assembly should a just a very small amount of play and the flange should clear the sensor by a couple millimeters..With the playfield up, put your hand on the truck to keep it flush to the playfield...you should be able to rotate it around and clear the sensor without it hanging...if it doesn't, you've got too much play...tighten the sleeve by repositioning the allen scrwew lockdown point

#4252 7 months ago
Quoted from JediMcMuffin:

1) Pinwoofers kits: superkit 5.25 upgrades my 4" backbox to 5.25" speakers and the 6" cabinet sub to an 8", amplifiers included as not to overload the onboards for $249 or so

This is what I just put in my new JP premium this week. Huge improvement over the stock 4” speaker and little sub. I did a little review a couple of entries above your question. I was skeptical going with something beyond a speaker replacement, but wow. Clarity is perfect and you can adjust the sound levels to your liking for both the sub and backbox with the two separate amps. If you were close by I’d let you listen. Highly recommend this kit and Dans tech support is great if you need help.

#4253 7 months ago
Quoted from kpg:

Interesting - what power levels do you have them on ?

I'm using stock power settings. I very rarely tweak the power settings...

Did you check to see if your flipper is moving freely and not "sticking" at all?

#4254 7 months ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

Make sure the flange on the end that the switch sensor reads is not interfering a getting hung up on the sensor. The truck assembly should a just a very small amount of play and the flange should clear the sensor by a couple millimeters..With the playfield up, put your hand on the truck to keep it flush to the playfield...you should be able to rotate it around and clear the sensor without it hanging...if it doesn't, you've got too much play...tighten the sleeve by repositioning the allen scrwew lockdown point

Thanks. We looked at that and there is plenty of clearance between the optos. I tried giving it no play, a lot of play and just a little play with the same result. It's that last 1/4" where it gets bound up. It spins around really well, hits the newton ball and bounces up about 1/4" and just stays there. A few flips or smacks on the side of the cabinet and it falls back down.

#4255 7 months ago
Quoted from snaroff:

I'm using stock power settings. I very rarely tweak the power settings...
Did you check to see if your flipper is moving freely and not "sticking" at all?

So I checked it yesterday and it did feel it had more resistance then the left flipper. So I took it apart and I put some synthetic grease in there and it seems to be working a bit better now. Ultimately I'm going to just replace the whole assembly I think, but there is definitely an improvement now. Thanks man !

#4256 7 months ago
Quoted from kpg:

So I checked it yesterday and it did feel it had more resistance then the left flipper. So I took it apart and I put some synthetic grease in there and it seems to be working a bit better now. Ultimately I'm going to just replace the whole assembly I think, but there is definitely an improvement now. Thanks man !

You should never need to grease any part of the flipper assembly; they are designed to operate dry. Is there a small amount of up and down play on the flipper? The flipper being tightened flush against the bushing can cause the resistance you are feeling.

#4257 7 months ago
Quoted from kpg:

So I checked it yesterday and it did feel it had more resistance then the left flipper. So I took it apart and I put some synthetic grease in there and it seems to be working a bit better now. Ultimately I'm going to just replace the whole assembly I think, but there is definitely an improvement now. Thanks man !

That grease is going to capture pinball dust and turn to hard crud eventually. Best bet is to disassemble the flipper, clean off all the grease, then reassemble with proper distance between the flipper bat and the playfield bushing.

Stern is bad about shipping games with improper clearance. If the crank is clamped to the flipper shaft too high or too low, the plunger binds as it goes into the coil crooked. You need the crank clamped so that the plunger is aligned with the coil and goes straight in, not crooked up/down. This is generally achieved with about 1/16" clearance between the bottom of the bat and the bushing. WMS used to ship spacers in the goody bag to get the appropriate clearance, not sure if Stern still does or if clearance is the same.

#4258 7 months ago
Quoted from metallik:

That grease is going to capture pinball dust and turn to hard crud eventually. Best bet is to disassemble the flipper, clean off all the grease, then reassemble with proper distance between the flipper bat and the playfield bushing.
Stern is bad about shipping games with improper clearance. If the crank is clamped to the flipper shaft too high or too low, the plunger binds as it goes into the coil crooked. You need the crank clamped so that the plunger is aligned with the coil and goes straight in, not crooked up/down. This is generally achieved with about 1/16" clearance between the bottom of the bat and the bushing. WMS used to ship spacers in the goody bag to get the appropriate clearance, not sure if Stern still does or if clearance is the same.

Ok true, and honestly you didn't need to downvote my post over it lol

But here's the thing. I did in fact check that first and have had to adjust that before. That wasn't the issue. It just had resistance and was even squeaking going in and out of the shaft.

Put a ton of games on it tonight and the flipper works so much better. If it gets gunked up after a while I'll just clean it up or just replace the entire assembly anyway. It's not a big deal.. it's playing awesome now though.

#4259 7 months ago
Quoted from Spyderturbo007:

Thanks. We looked at that and there is plenty of clearance between the optos. I tried giving it no play, a lot of play and just a little play with the same result. It's that last 1/4" where it gets bound up. It spins around really well, hits the newton ball and bounces up about 1/4" and just stays there. A few flips or smacks on the side of the cabinet and it falls back down.

This was happening on mine. Just replace the bushing. I tried cleaning mine and it was good for a little bit but then went back to not resting on the newton ball. They are cheap enough, but you need the stern flipper bushings. I tried a Williams one i had and it didn't fit the screw holes properly. Obviously clean the truck rod that goes through the bushing. I used alcohol. Upon reassembling with the new bushing i did have to try different gapping to get quick smooth action. I had better luck with a gap that was wider than a standard flipper gap. Machine pitch/level could potentially play a part in how this mechanism is effected as well. Im just under 7 degrees. Good luck! You'll be back at museum mayhem in no time

#4260 7 months ago
Quoted from metallik:

That grease is going to capture pinball dust and turn to hard crud eventually. Best bet is to disassemble the flipper, clean off all the grease, then reassemble with proper distance between the flipper bat and the playfield bushing.
Stern is bad about shipping games with improper clearance. If the crank is clamped to the flipper shaft too high or too low, the plunger binds as it goes into the coil crooked. You need the crank clamped so that the plunger is aligned with the coil and goes straight in, not crooked up/down. This is generally achieved with about 1/16" clearance between the bottom of the bat and the bushing. WMS used to ship spacers in the goody bag to get the appropriate clearance, not sure if Stern still does or if clearance is the same.

Normal "dialing in" of the flipper crank wasn't the problem for me either (I've done that adjustment countless times). Just as Stern received a flawed batch of coil stops, I believe they received a flawed batch of flipper mechs. I don't have the time or motivation to figure out what is funky about the flipper mech, I just know it wasn't functioning properly (and will replace the entire mech).

#4261 7 months ago

Last week I completed Escape Nublar. This mode is a semi-challenging mini wizard that sort of reminds me of a System 11 rule-set. Very fun & another reason that makes JP3 so great.

I completed the mission just under the billion mark, w/ the next time aiming for that goal. So what are your final scores & times for this awesome expedition mode?

001 (resized).JPG
#4262 7 months ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Normal "dialing in" of the flipper crank wasn't the problem for me either (I've done that adjustment countless times). Just as Stern received a flawed batch of coil stops, I believe they received a flawed batch of flipper mechs. I don't have the time or motivation to figure out what is funky about the flipper mech, I just know it wasn't functioning properly (and will replace the entire mech).

That's a bummer if they're shipping parts that are non-conforming. We've not had issues with any of our JP flipper mechs, had to turn power down on rt flipper to 235 or so to keep left ramp shots under control.

#4263 7 months ago
Quoted from metallik:

That's a bummer if they're shipping parts that are non-conforming. We've not had issues with any of our JP flipper mechs, had to turn power down on rt flipper to 235 or so to keep left ramp shots under control.

What do you mean by under control? I've noticed after cleaning my game i get frequent left ramp rejections on clean shots. Its almost like the ball airballs and hits something then comes back. Is that what you mean?

#4264 7 months ago
Quoted from KingHebes:

What do you mean by under control? I've noticed after cleaning my game i get frequent left ramp rejections on clean shots. Its almost like the ball airballs and hits something then comes back. Is that what you mean?

That happens on mine sometimes too...

#4265 7 months ago

Yep, it's a result of the left ramp design. Because the flap sticks out past the entrance, shots that just barely hit either post will already have an upward trajectory and do that rejection thing, banging off the ramp cover. I took the cover off, but all that does is allow these post shots to carom off onto the plastics. Especially on the left... you'll think the shot is good but it'll clip the metal protector and bang around, except now the rattle goes up/down in addition to left/right.

There's another thing that might be happening.. a clean shot that hugs the wall on either side of the ramp will first hit the screw hole in the flap, and then catch the edge of the flap rivet. This could also lead to rattles into the cover. I mylared over the hole to help mitigate, and want to eventually grind a bit off the rivets so the ball can't hit them. Same with the screw in the tower ramp approach.

#4266 7 months ago

I'm in the club too! the machine was build in dec. 2019, bought in germany a week ago.
At first i was a littlebit concerned becaues the machine felt uncommonly for me, but after 30min i was hooked, can't stop playing!!

-Heli-blades got stuck on the metal guide right out of the box. Fixed it carefully in about an hour.
After reassembling the blades they seem to spin too slow and tend to not coming back to the standard position, any idea?

-Clearcoat was deformed too from the metal guides.

-T-Rex opto was covered from its own cable, but working now 100%.

-The flipper buttons seemed to get stuck sometimes, i inspected them and there was a little seam from molding- ground it away, perfekt now.

-I bought an external volume button for spike systems, but i think JP needs a newer one since i do not find the right connection, anyone experienced?

-Anyone knows where i can buy a quiet fan? Its really loud!

-Also the T-Rex is very loud when moving, is this normal?

-The only real problem i can't fix is the Spitter lane. My balls wont go around smooth there about 80%. If you have an idea i would be thankfull!


20200313_152115 (resized).jpg

#4267 7 months ago
Quoted from metallik:

....grind a bit off the rivets so the ball can't hit them. Same with the screw in the tower ramp approach.

I did this to the tower ramp screw. Dremel tool with a fine stone. The ball now clears the ramp without hitting the bottom screw.

#4268 7 months ago
Quoted from Prodoshi:

I'm in the club too! the machine was build in dec. 2019, bought in germany a week ago.
At first i was a littlebit concerned becaues the machine felt uncommonly for me, but after 30min i was hooked, can't stop playing!!
-Heli-blades got stuck on the metal guide right out of the box. Fixed it carefully in about an hour.
After reassembling the blades they seem to spin too slow and tend to not coming back to the standard position, any idea?
-Clearcoat was deformed too from the metal guides.
-T-Rex opto was covered from its own cable, but working now 100%.
-The flipper buttons seemed to get stuck sometimes, i inspected them and there was a little seam from molding- ground it away, perfekt now.
-I bought an external volume button for spike systems, but i think JP needs a newer one since i do not find the right connection, anyone experienced?
-Anyone knows where i can buy a quiet fan? Its really loud!
-Also the T-Rex is very loud when moving, is this normal?
-The only real problem i can't fix is the Spitter lane. My balls wont go around smooth there about 80%. If you have an idea i would be thankfull!

[quoted image]

-Make sure the bottom of the heli post isn't rubbing on the plate down there.

-The external volume control should plug in under the menu buttons.

-@pinmonk sells the quiet fan, I think pinball life carries them now too.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1170-pin-monk/02140-spike-quiet-fan-plug-n-play-kit

-T-rex is loud

-The spitter lane isn't supposed to make it through clean every time. It should feed the pops some of the time.

#4269 7 months ago

I replaced my fan last night with a similar one. HUGE difference! Can’t hear it at all.

#4270 7 months ago
Quoted from J-Freeze:

-Make sure the bottom of the heli post isn't rubbing on the plate down there.
-The external volume control should plug in under the menu buttons.
-@pinmonk sells the quiet fan, I think pinball life carries them now too.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1170-pin-monk/02140-spike-quiet-fan-plug-n-play-kit
-T-rex is loud
-The spitter lane isn't supposed to make it through clean every time. It should feed the pops some of the time.

thanks for taking the time!
There are 3 washers on the heli. I put the one with the bearing at the lowest spot, that worked!
I found the volume controll plug, yay!

I changed the standard post sleeves with superband and it was an airball fest, i swapped them back after 20 seconds play,
because of the potential PF damage.
I dont understand why i didnt read about that in the thread, since i see so much pictures of coloured post sleeves here.
Are there alternative products for those not-bouncy sleeves?

Quoted from JP76:

I replaced my fan last night with a similar one. HUGE difference! Can’t hear it at all.

make sure you have enough cooling power on the new fan!

cheers

#4271 7 months ago

make sure you have enough cooling power on the new fan!
cheers

I monitored it for a few cycles and it works well. I doesn’t move as much air as the original one but it does the job. I wanted to make sure it didn’t run all the time and it’s not even close to doing that.

#4272 7 months ago
Quoted from Prodoshi:

thanks for taking the time!
There are 3 washers on the heli. I put the one with the bearing at the lowest spot, that worked!
I found the volume controll plug, yay!
I changed the standard post sleeves with superband and it was an airball fest, i swapped them back after 20 seconds play,
because of the potential PF damage.
I dont understand why i didnt read about that in the thread, since i see so much pictures of coloured post sleeves here.
Are there alternative products for those not-bouncy sleeves?

make sure you have enough cooling power on the new fan!
cheers

What angle are you at..I have Superbands sleeves at 7 deg and no airballs at all

#4273 7 months ago
Quoted from Prodoshi:

-I bought an external volume button for spike systems, but i think JP needs a newer one since i do not find the right connection, anyone experienced
-Anyone knows where i can buy a quiet fan? Its really loud!
-The only real problem i can't fix is the Spitter lane. My balls wont go around smooth there about 80%. If you have an idea i would be thankfull!

[quoted image]

If your external volume button is the Pin_Vol, a batch of these were wired incorrectly.

Get the fan from PinMonk in the shops on this site.

Spitter lane is normal.

#4274 7 months ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

What angle are you at..I have Superbands sleeves at 7 deg and no airballs at all

Exactly 7°, its the increased speed of the ball. It's like setting flipper strength on max, the faster travel speed causes a higher chance of flying balls.
I'm trying the PerfectPlay "thin" ones now.

I have a question on the flipper alignment. Mine are pointing right at the two little alignment holes in the PF.
The thing with JP2 is, that most shots are made with the tip of the flipper. (controll room, pteranodon ramp, O shot, helipad ramp)
Would it make sense to make them droopier, because accuracy decreases on the end of the flippers... Ghostbusters alike.
Of corse trapping would be harder. Anyone tested this?

#4275 7 months ago
Quoted from Prodoshi:

Exactly 7°, its the increased speed of the ball. It's like setting flipper strength on max, the faster travel speed causes a higher chance of flying balls.
I'm trying the PerfectPlay "thin" ones now.
I have a question on the flipper alignment. Mine are pointing right at the two little alignment holes in the PF.
The thing with JP2 is, that most shots are made with the tip of the flipper. (controll room, pteranodon ramp, O shot, helipad ramp)
Would it make sense to make them droopier, because accuracy decreases on the end of the flippers... Ghostbusters alike.
Of corse trapping would be harder. Anyone tested this?

I tested this today as a matter of fact. My JP came out of the box sagging well below the flipper alignment. Been playing it for four months in this position. Today I centered the flippers with the flipper alignment and I am making the shots much much more consistently now. I was thinking I really suck at this game for quite awhile

Thanks to Keith chiming in the other day on JP thread brought this to my attention

#4276 7 months ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

I tested this today as a matter of fact. My JP came out of the box sagging well below the flipper alignment. Been playing it for four months in this position. Today I centered the flippers with the flipper alignment and I am making the shots much much more consistently now. I was thinking I really suck at this game for quite awhile
Thanks to Keith chiming in the other day on JP thread brought this to my attention

hmmm ok, so droopy flippers are not a good idea.

#4277 7 months ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

I tested this today as a matter of fact. My JP came out of the box sagging well below the flipper alignment. Been playing it for four months in this position. Today I centered the flippers with the flipper alignment and I am making the shots much much more consistently now. I was thinking I really suck at this game for quite awhile
Thanks to Keith chiming in the other day on JP thread brought this to my attention

The other critical adjustment is making sure the upper flipper ball guide clears the flipper. Both of my games needed the guide to be pushed forward ever so slightly. Without this adjustment, the ball bounced on the flipper and makes the upper PF shots a PITA.

#4278 7 months ago
Quoted from snaroff:

The other critical adjustment is making sure the upper flipper ball guide clears the flipper. Both of my games needed the guide to be pushed forward ever so slightly. Without this adjustment, the ball bounced on the flipper and makes the upper PF shots a PITA.

Yes I agree! I did adjust my upper flipper correctly and I make the raptor tower shot easily now

#4279 7 months ago
Quoted from Prodoshi:

hmmm ok, so droopy flippers are not a good idea.

Keith says they are designed to be droopy but not more droopy Than the flipper alignment guide

#4280 7 months ago
Quoted from snaroff:

The other critical adjustment is making sure the upper flipper ball guide clears the flipper. Both of my games needed the guide to be pushed forward ever so slightly. Without this adjustment, the ball bounced on the flipper and makes the upper PF shots a PITA.

Where could I find a diagram or pic of this? Not sure what is meant by the flipper ball guides or proper flipper resting/'droopy' flippers.

#4281 7 months ago

Zoom at the tip of the flipper in pic. There is an indentation in the playfield that indicates flipper placement
DC5BDD4E-C1C6-4DD1-A298-676100C35F06 (resized).jpeg

09A924F7-5200-46FB-8DD3-E71638B29DFE (resized).jpeg
#4282 7 months ago
Quoted from pb456:

Where could I find a diagram or pic of this? Not sure what is meant by the flipper ball guides or proper flipper resting/'droopy' flippers.

The ball travels on a metal guide to the right of the flipper. When the ball rolls along the guide, it should transition smoothly (without bumping into the flipper).

IMG_1093 (resized).jpeg
#4283 7 months ago

Thanks @green-machine and @snaroff for the explanation.

#4284 7 months ago
Quoted from snaroff:

The ball travels on a metal guide to the right of the flipper. When the ball rolls along the guide, it should transition smoothly (without bumping into the flipper).[quoted image]

Sorry for sounding ignorant, but how do you move the guide forward?

#4285 7 months ago
Quoted from Freakyguy666:

Sorry for sounding ignorant, but how do you move the guide forward?

Remove the screw, nudge the guide ever so slightly, re-tighten the screw. In this case, I added a toothpick to help push the guide forward.

In an ideal world, the screw hole would be larger to accommodate dialing it in. Unfortunately, this isn't the case here.

10
#4286 7 months ago

Looks like I’m in the club , getting ready to pick up a pro ! Can’t wait .

#4287 7 months ago

..edit.. wrong topic

#4288 7 months ago

I'm still having problems with airballs. Pitch is 7° and its leveled.
Mainly I'm getting airballs because of the slings. If the ball hits the first sling and from there into the second one, it takes off.
I'm using transparent silicon rubbers, they are causing no problems on my Ghostbusters Pin. And the sling power is turned down to 26.
Sometimes balls jump into the metal rails of the t-rex ramp or the helipad ramp.
The worst airballs i get when hitting the "O"shot and the ball returns right to the upper flipper with full speed and I hit it again with the flipper.
On the flippers i use Titan competition rubbers.

Do you have similar experiences? Any ideas? I'm afraid to damage my PF.

New Highscore, 720.000.000 woot, I really enjoy to figure out alle the modes!
And the the best part are the flippers. I feel like i have so much controll because
of the alignment of the inlane/flipper/sling-combo, microflips are awesome!

#4289 7 months ago

Yesterday I got to victory laps in museum mayhem and score 920.000.00 this game is the best!

#4290 7 months ago

Anyone else think of the Control Room mode "Virus Attack" differently now when you start it? Def kind of weird now lol

#4291 7 months ago
Quoted from Prodoshi:

I'm still having problems with airballs. Pitch is 7° and its leveled.
Mainly I'm getting airballs because of the slings. If the ball hits the first sling and from there into the second one, it takes off.
I'm using transparent silicon rubbers, they are causing no problems on my Ghostbusters Pin. And the sling power is turned down to 26.
Sometimes balls jump into the metal rails of the t-rex ramp or the helipad ramp.
The worst airballs i get when hitting the "O"shot and the ball returns right to the upper flipper with full speed and I hit it again with the flipper.
On the flippers i use Titan competition rubbers.
Do you have similar experiences? Any ideas? I'm afraid to damage my PF.
New Highscore, 720.000.000 woot, I really enjoy to figure out alle the modes!
And the the best part are the flippers. I feel like i have so much controll because
of the alignment of the inlane/flipper/sling-combo, microflips are awesome!

I'm also using clear Titan rubbers on my slings, and I have no issues with airballs. I'm not sure what your problem could be, but the rubbers probably are not the issue.

#4292 7 months ago
Quoted from Prodoshi:

I'm still having problems with airballs. Pitch is 7° and its leveled.
Mainly I'm getting airballs because of the slings. If the ball hits the first sling and from there into the second one, it takes off.
I'm using transparent silicon rubbers, they are causing no problems on my Ghostbusters Pin. And the sling power is turned down to 26.
Sometimes balls jump into the metal rails of the t-rex ramp or the helipad ramp.
The worst airballs i get when hitting the "O"shot and the ball returns right to the upper flipper with full speed and I hit it again with the flipper.
On the flippers i use Titan competition rubbers.
Do you have similar experiences? Any ideas? I'm afraid to damage my PF.
New Highscore, 720.000.000 woot, I really enjoy to figure out alle the modes!
And the the best part are the flippers. I feel like i have so much controll because
of the alignment of the inlane/flipper/sling-combo, microflips are awesome!

Try tightening your sling posts, as well as other posts in the game. I've had a lot of recent Sterns with terribly loose posts lately, and they can cause airballs and other issues, especially around the slings. If that doesn't help, I would try going back to normal rubber just to rule that out...and make sure you are using the correct rubber size.

#4293 7 months ago

Is there anyone that has made coin door decals for JP? Thanks.

#4294 7 months ago

AAAARRRGH!! 600 games, clearcoat is damaged at the upper flippers post.
The post was never loose, because i always checked it!
What can i do now? I payed over 9.000$ here in the EU.
How much will i loose if i want to resell it?
Build date = Dec. 17. 2019
Will i get a replaced, unpopulated PF?
And what can i do to minimize further damage? airgun, PVC washers?
DAMAGE (resized).jpg

#4295 7 months ago
Quoted from Jediturtle:

Try tightening your sling posts, as well as other posts in the game. I've had a lot of recent Sterns with terribly loose posts lately, and they can cause airballs and other issues, especially around the slings. If that doesn't help, I would try going back to normal rubber just to rule that out...and make sure you are using the correct rubber size.

Thank you, posts are tight, rubber size is ok. I will test some more rubbers.

#4296 7 months ago
Quoted from Prodoshi:

AAAARRRGH!! 600 games, clearcoat is damaged at the upper flippers post.
The post was never loose, because i always checked it!
What can i do now? I payed over 9.000$ here in the EU.
How much will i loose if i want to resell it?
Build date = Dec. 17. 2019
Will i get a replaced, unpopulated PF?
And what can i do to minimize further damage? airgun, PVC washers?
[quoted image]

If you can get Minwax Polycrylic Clear Gloss finish or a product similar to it then I would say try that. I had a very similar issue in the shooter lane of a different machine where just the clear chipped a little bit (no damage to wood underneath). I used the Minwax Polycrylic Clear Gloss and it blended in and fixed it really well.

amazon.com link »

#4297 7 months ago

It looks like the MSRP for all three models (Pro, Premium, LE) went up by $100 recently.

#4298 7 months ago
Quoted from nullPinner:

It looks like the MSRP for all three models (Pro, Premium, LE) went up by $100 recently.

Stern has to either be feeling the pain of the global economy or very worried right now.

#4299 7 months ago
Quoted from nullPinner:

It looks like the MSRP for all three models (Pro, Premium, LE) went up by $100 recently.

What is your definition of recently? I know it went up in Jan. Are you saying it went up again since then?

#4300 7 months ago
Quoted from 85vett:

What is your definition of recently? I know it went up in Jan. Are you saying it went up again since then?

3 months.

No.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 35.00
Cabinet - Other
Arcade Upkeep
$ 79.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
$ 16.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
There are 7511 posts in this topic. You are on page 86 of 151.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside