Make sure the flange on the end that the switch sensor reads is not interfering a getting hung up on the sensor. The truck assembly should a just a very small amount of play and the flange should clear the sensor by a couple millimeters..With the playfield up, put your hand on the truck to keep it flush to the playfield...you should be able to rotate it around and clear the sensor without it hanging...if it doesn't, you've got too much play...tighten the sleeve by repositioning the allen scrwew lockdown point

This is what I just put in my new JP premium this week. Huge improvement over the stock 4” speaker and little sub. I did a little review a couple of entries above your question. I was skeptical going with something beyond a speaker replacement, but wow. Clarity is perfect and you can adjust the sound levels to your liking for both the sub and backbox with the two separate amps. If you were close by I’d let you listen. Highly recommend this kit and Dans tech support is great if you need help.

I'm using stock power settings. I very rarely tweak the power settings...

Did you check to see if your flipper is moving freely and not "sticking" at all?

Thanks. We looked at that and there is plenty of clearance between the optos. I tried giving it no play, a lot of play and just a little play with the same result. It's that last 1/4" where it gets bound up. It spins around really well, hits the newton ball and bounces up about 1/4" and just stays there. A few flips or smacks on the side of the cabinet and it falls back down.

So I checked it yesterday and it did feel it had more resistance then the left flipper. So I took it apart and I put some synthetic grease in there and it seems to be working a bit better now. Ultimately I'm going to just replace the whole assembly I think, but there is definitely an improvement now. Thanks man !

You should never need to grease any part of the flipper assembly; they are designed to operate dry. Is there a small amount of up and down play on the flipper? The flipper being tightened flush against the bushing can cause the resistance you are feeling.

That grease is going to capture pinball dust and turn to hard crud eventually. Best bet is to disassemble the flipper, clean off all the grease, then reassemble with proper distance between the flipper bat and the playfield bushing.

Stern is bad about shipping games with improper clearance. If the crank is clamped to the flipper shaft too high or too low, the plunger binds as it goes into the coil crooked. You need the crank clamped so that the plunger is aligned with the coil and goes straight in, not crooked up/down. This is generally achieved with about 1/16" clearance between the bottom of the bat and the bushing. WMS used to ship spacers in the goody bag to get the appropriate clearance, not sure if Stern still does or if clearance is the same.

Ok true, and honestly you didn't need to downvote my post over it lol

But here's the thing. I did in fact check that first and have had to adjust that before. That wasn't the issue. It just had resistance and was even squeaking going in and out of the shaft.

Put a ton of games on it tonight and the flipper works so much better. If it gets gunked up after a while I'll just clean it up or just replace the entire assembly anyway. It's not a big deal.. it's playing awesome now though.

This was happening on mine. Just replace the bushing. I tried cleaning mine and it was good for a little bit but then went back to not resting on the newton ball. They are cheap enough, but you need the stern flipper bushings. I tried a Williams one i had and it didn't fit the screw holes properly. Obviously clean the truck rod that goes through the bushing. I used alcohol. Upon reassembling with the new bushing i did have to try different gapping to get quick smooth action. I had better luck with a gap that was wider than a standard flipper gap. Machine pitch/level could potentially play a part in how this mechanism is effected as well. Im just under 7 degrees. Good luck! You'll be back at museum mayhem in no time

Normal "dialing in" of the flipper crank wasn't the problem for me either (I've done that adjustment countless times). Just as Stern received a flawed batch of coil stops, I believe they received a flawed batch of flipper mechs. I don't have the time or motivation to figure out what is funky about the flipper mech, I just know it wasn't functioning properly (and will replace the entire mech).

Last week I completed Escape Nublar. This mode is a semi-challenging mini wizard that sort of reminds me of a System 11 rule-set. Very fun & another reason that makes JP3 so great.

I completed the mission just under the billion mark, w/ the next time aiming for that goal. So what are your final scores & times for this awesome expedition mode?

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That's a bummer if they're shipping parts that are non-conforming. We've not had issues with any of our JP flipper mechs, had to turn power down on rt flipper to 235 or so to keep left ramp shots under control.

What do you mean by under control? I've noticed after cleaning my game i get frequent left ramp rejections on clean shots. Its almost like the ball airballs and hits something then comes back. Is that what you mean?

That happens on mine sometimes too...

Yep, it's a result of the left ramp design. Because the flap sticks out past the entrance, shots that just barely hit either post will already have an upward trajectory and do that rejection thing, banging off the ramp cover. I took the cover off, but all that does is allow these post shots to carom off onto the plastics. Especially on the left... you'll think the shot is good but it'll clip the metal protector and bang around, except now the rattle goes up/down in addition to left/right.

There's another thing that might be happening.. a clean shot that hugs the wall on either side of the ramp will first hit the screw hole in the flap, and then catch the edge of the flap rivet. This could also lead to rattles into the cover. I mylared over the hole to help mitigate, and want to eventually grind a bit off the rivets so the ball can't hit them. Same with the screw in the tower ramp approach.

I'm in the club too! the machine was build in dec. 2019, bought in germany a week ago.
At first i was a littlebit concerned becaues the machine felt uncommonly for me, but after 30min i was hooked, can't stop playing!!

-Heli-blades got stuck on the metal guide right out of the box. Fixed it carefully in about an hour.
After reassembling the blades they seem to spin too slow and tend to not coming back to the standard position, any idea?

-Clearcoat was deformed too from the metal guides.

-T-Rex opto was covered from its own cable, but working now 100%.

-The flipper buttons seemed to get stuck sometimes, i inspected them and there was a little seam from molding- ground it away, perfekt now.

-I bought an external volume button for spike systems, but i think JP needs a newer one since i do not find the right connection, anyone experienced?

-Anyone knows where i can buy a quiet fan? Its really loud!

-Also the T-Rex is very loud when moving, is this normal?

-The only real problem i can't fix is the Spitter lane. My balls wont go around smooth there about 80%. If you have an idea i would be thankfull!

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I did this to the tower ramp screw. Dremel tool with a fine stone. The ball now clears the ramp without hitting the bottom screw.

-Make sure the bottom of the heli post isn't rubbing on the plate down there.

-The external volume control should plug in under the menu buttons.

-@pinmonk sells the quiet fan, I think pinball life carries them now too.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1170-pin-monk/02140-spike-quiet-fan-plug-n-play-kit

-T-rex is loud

-The spitter lane isn't supposed to make it through clean every time. It should feed the pops some of the time.

I replaced my fan last night with a similar one. HUGE difference! Can’t hear it at all.

thanks for taking the time!
There are 3 washers on the heli. I put the one with the bearing at the lowest spot, that worked!
I found the volume controll plug, yay!

I changed the standard post sleeves with superband and it was an airball fest, i swapped them back after 20 seconds play,
because of the potential PF damage.
I dont understand why i didnt read about that in the thread, since i see so much pictures of coloured post sleeves here.
Are there alternative products for those not-bouncy sleeves?

make sure you have enough cooling power on the new fan!

cheers

make sure you have enough cooling power on the new fan!
cheers

I monitored it for a few cycles and it works well. I doesn’t move as much air as the original one but it does the job. I wanted to make sure it didn’t run all the time and it’s not even close to doing that.

What angle are you at..I have Superbands sleeves at 7 deg and no airballs at all

If your external volume button is the Pin_Vol, a batch of these were wired incorrectly.

Get the fan from PinMonk in the shops on this site.

Spitter lane is normal.

Exactly 7°, its the increased speed of the ball. It's like setting flipper strength on max, the faster travel speed causes a higher chance of flying balls.
I'm trying the PerfectPlay "thin" ones now.

I have a question on the flipper alignment. Mine are pointing right at the two little alignment holes in the PF.
The thing with JP2 is, that most shots are made with the tip of the flipper. (controll room, pteranodon ramp, O shot, helipad ramp)
Would it make sense to make them droopier, because accuracy decreases on the end of the flippers... Ghostbusters alike.
Of corse trapping would be harder. Anyone tested this?

I tested this today as a matter of fact. My JP came out of the box sagging well below the flipper alignment. Been playing it for four months in this position. Today I centered the flippers with the flipper alignment and I am making the shots much much more consistently now. I was thinking I really suck at this game for quite awhile

Thanks to Keith chiming in the other day on JP thread brought this to my attention

hmmm ok, so droopy flippers are not a good idea.

The other critical adjustment is making sure the upper flipper ball guide clears the flipper. Both of my games needed the guide to be pushed forward ever so slightly. Without this adjustment, the ball bounced on the flipper and makes the upper PF shots a PITA.

Yes I agree! I did adjust my upper flipper correctly and I make the raptor tower shot easily now

Keith says they are designed to be droopy but not more droopy Than the flipper alignment guide

Where could I find a diagram or pic of this? Not sure what is meant by the flipper ball guides or proper flipper resting/'droopy' flippers.

Zoom at the tip of the flipper in pic. There is an indentation in the playfield that indicates flipper placement
DC5BDD4E-C1C6-4DD1-A298-676100C35F06 (resized).jpeg

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The ball travels on a metal guide to the right of the flipper. When the ball rolls along the guide, it should transition smoothly (without bumping into the flipper).

IMG_1093 (resized).jpeg

Thanks @green-machine and @snaroff for the explanation.

Sorry for sounding ignorant, but how do you move the guide forward?

Remove the screw, nudge the guide ever so slightly, re-tighten the screw. In this case, I added a toothpick to help push the guide forward.

In an ideal world, the screw hole would be larger to accommodate dialing it in. Unfortunately, this isn't the case here.

Looks like I’m in the club , getting ready to pick up a pro ! Can’t wait .

..edit.. wrong topic

I'm still having problems with airballs. Pitch is 7° and its leveled.
Mainly I'm getting airballs because of the slings. If the ball hits the first sling and from there into the second one, it takes off.
I'm using transparent silicon rubbers, they are causing no problems on my Ghostbusters Pin. And the sling power is turned down to 26.
Sometimes balls jump into the metal rails of the t-rex ramp or the helipad ramp.
The worst airballs i get when hitting the "O"shot and the ball returns right to the upper flipper with full speed and I hit it again with the flipper.
On the flippers i use Titan competition rubbers.

Do you have similar experiences? Any ideas? I'm afraid to damage my PF.

New Highscore, 720.000.000 woot, I really enjoy to figure out alle the modes!
And the the best part are the flippers. I feel like i have so much controll because
of the alignment of the inlane/flipper/sling-combo, microflips are awesome!

Anyone else think of the Control Room mode "Virus Attack" differently now when you start it? Def kind of weird now lol

Try tightening your sling posts, as well as other posts in the game. I've had a lot of recent Sterns with terribly loose posts lately, and they can cause airballs and other issues, especially around the slings. If that doesn't help, I would try going back to normal rubber just to rule that out...and make sure you are using the correct rubber size.

Is there anyone that has made coin door decals for JP? Thanks.

AAAARRRGH!! 600 games, clearcoat is damaged at the upper flippers post.
The post was never loose, because i always checked it!
What can i do now? I payed over 9.000$ here in the EU.
How much will i loose if i want to resell it?
Build date = Dec. 17. 2019
Will i get a replaced, unpopulated PF?
And what can i do to minimize further damage? airgun, PVC washers?
DAMAGE (resized).jpg

Thank you, posts are tight, rubber size is ok. I will test some more rubbers.

If you can get Minwax Polycrylic Clear Gloss finish or a product similar to it then I would say try that. I had a very similar issue in the shooter lane of a different machine where just the clear chipped a little bit (no damage to wood underneath). I used the Minwax Polycrylic Clear Gloss and it blended in and fixed it really well.

https://www.amazon.com/Minwax-255554444-Polycrylic-Protective-Finishes/dp/B000BZZ3S8/ref=redir_mobile_desktop

It looks like the MSRP for all three models (Pro, Premium, LE) went up by $100 recently.

Stern has to either be feeling the pain of the global economy or very worried right now.

What is your definition of recently? I know it went up in Jan. Are you saying it went up again since then?

3 months.

No.