(Topic ID: 248582)

Jurassic Park (Stern 2019) Owners Club. Welcome! To Jurassic park.....

By Scribbles

2 years ago


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There are 11906 posts in this topic. You are on page 71 of 239.
#3501 1 year ago
Quoted from Coz:

Thanks guys. Will these from pinball life be a good replacement?[quoted image]

Yes those are perfect.

#3502 1 year ago
Quoted from Coz:

Thanks guys. Will these from pinball life be a good replacement?[quoted image]

Order a few extra to have on hand. It's a known failure item on many newer sterns

#3503 1 year ago

Need some guidance.....I'm having the hardest time installing the new code for my JP Pro . I've downloaded the file (the correct Pro file) numerous times. Unzip from Winzip, copy it to my USB, shows up as a 2.54GB file but the game just boots up regularly with no update option when I turn it on with the USB inserted. I've tried 4 different USB's including the trusty one I use for Iron Maiden (never had a problem with updating on that). Only issue I see is that it says Winzip file in the details of the file instead of SPK....what am I missing here?

#3504 1 year ago
Quoted from RedDragons5:

Need some guidance.....I'm having the hardest time installing the new code for my JP Pro . I've downloaded the file (the correct Pro file) numerous times. Unzip from Winzip, copy it to my USB, shows up as a 2.54GB file but the game just boots up regularly with no update option when I turn it on with the USB inserted. I've tried 4 different USB's including the trusty one I use for Iron Maiden (never had a problem with updating on that). Only issue I see is that it says Winzip file in the details of the file instead of SPK....what am I missing here?

There should be two files you extract from the zip and put in the root of the usb drive.
96F11703-659C-4BE3-8165-08885E96A255 (resized).jpeg

#3505 1 year ago
Quoted from pickleric:

There should be two files you extract from the zip and put in the root of the usb drive.
[quoted image]

Should I be doing them separately? I've been doing both at the same time.....man, that sound weird!

#3506 1 year ago
Quoted from RedDragons5:

Should I be doing them separately? I've been doing both at the same time.....man, that sound weird!

Both unzipped files should be the only files on your usb stick. With the game off, insert the usb, then turn on the game. It should ask to update.

#3507 1 year ago
Quoted from RedDragons5:

Should I be doing them separately? I've been doing both at the same time.....man, that sound weird!

You put them both on the usb at the same time. Make sure the usb drive is fat 32 formatted and not some other filesystem like ntfs, refs, apfs etc.

#3508 1 year ago

You guys are the best! Just threw me off because I was looking for "SPK" file instead of the 000 and 001.....thank you!

#3509 1 year ago

Anybody else having trouble getting the truck to flip around for lighting TREX letters? I find it fun getting through the paddocks but then realize I need to get all the TREX modes completed, which leads to chopping wood of hitting the newton ball over and over and over. The vast majority of shots do not send it all the way around. It has to be just an a absolutely perfect hit, and always from the left flipper.

#3510 1 year ago
Quoted from spidey:

Anybody else having trouble getting the truck to flip around for lighting TREX letters? I find it fun getting through the paddocks but then realize I need to get all the TREX modes completed, which leads to chopping wood of hitting the newton ball over and over and over. The vast majority of shots do not send it all the way around. It has to be just an a absolutely perfect hit, and always from the left flipper.

The upper playfield flipper will turn it too. Just another option

#3511 1 year ago
Quoted from spidey:

Anybody else having trouble getting the truck to flip around for lighting TREX letters? I find it fun getting through the paddocks but then realize I need to get all the TREX modes completed, which leads to chopping wood of hitting the newton ball over and over and over. The vast majority of shots do not send it all the way around. It has to be just an a absolutely perfect hit, and always from the left flipper.

The truck should turn easier than that. On mine and the couple others I’ve played most any hit from either flipper makes it move a fair amount and it’s not too tough to make it go the whole way around.

#3512 1 year ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

The upper playfield flipper will turn it too. Just another option

Quoted from EaglePin:

The truck should turn easier than that. On mine and the couple others I’ve played most any hit from either flipper makes it move a fair amount and it’s not too tough to make it go the whole way around.

I'll have to inspect mine because it doesn't want to turn.

#3513 1 year ago
Quoted from spidey:

I'll have to inspect mine because it doesn't want to turn.

Ok, here's what I found out on my truck.... First few hundred games or so, the truck worked like a champ. Then slowly it became a bit more difficult to get it to spin. What I discovered was the ball attatched to the truck wasnt always making good contact with the stationary ball. Therefore, no kinetic energy was being transferred to spin the truck, even with a solid hit. Very frustrating. Here's my fix. Remove the truck, easy to do with a set screw from below the playfield. You'll find a couple of metal washers on the shaft that sandwich a nylon washer with tiny ball bearings in it. I used the smallest amount of a good silicone lubricant on those bearings, and on the metal shaft. I actually sprayed the lubricant on a q-tip, then applied to the parts. Reassemble the mechanism, leaving a tiny bit of wiggle in the shaft. The jeep spins like greased lighting now. Zero issues. DONT use wd40, or oil. Use a 100% silicone lubricant. Available at most auto parts stores.

#3514 1 year ago
Quoted from Scribbles:

Ok, here's what I found out on my truck.... First few hundred games or so, the truck worked like a champ. Then slowly it became a bit more difficult to get it to spin. What I discovered was the ball attatched to the truck wasnt always making good contact with the stationary ball. Therefore, no kinetic energy was being transferred to spin the truck, even with a solid hit. Very frustrating. Here's my fix. Remove the truck, easy to do with a set screw from below the playfield. You'll find a couple of metal washers on the shaft that sandwich a nylon washer with tiny ball bearings in it. I used the smallest amount of a good silicone lubricant on those bearings, and on the metal shaft. I actually sprayed the lubricant on a q-tip, then applied to the parts. Reassemble the mechanism, leaving a tiny bit of wiggle in the shaft. The jeep spins like greased lighting now. Zero issues. DONT use wd40, or oil. Use a 100% silicone lubricant. Available at most auto parts stores.

Good to know as mine is experiencing similar symptoms at about 1000 plays now.

#3515 1 year ago
Quoted from Coz:

Thanks guys. Will these from pinball life be a good replacement?[quoted image]

This is what I just ordered too. 6, just to be safe.
They are easy to install.

#3516 1 year ago
Quoted from spidey:

Anybody else having trouble getting the truck to flip around for lighting TREX letters? I find it fun getting through the paddocks but then realize I need to get all the TREX modes completed, which leads to chopping wood of hitting the newton ball over and over and over. The vast majority of shots do not send it all the way around. It has to be just an a absolutely perfect hit, and always from the left flipper.

Mine moves, really, really easy. **Edit** Just saw Scribbles post, I'm guessing that's your next step.

13
#3517 1 year ago

I love how Stern keeps releasing new code for this game but I also hate taking off the backglass to complete the update. I am always scared that I might drop or break it. To prevent having to take it off for an update, I just installed a USB extension cable that will allow me to complete an update without removing the backglass. Here is the 90 degree USB cable that I used. I think it is a great upgrade/insurance for $8

amazon.com link »

USB90 (resized).PNGIMG_1108 (resized).jpgIMG_1109 (resized).jpg
#3518 1 year ago

Perfect solution, was thinking the same.

Quoted from Gotfrogs:

I love how Stern keeps releasing new code for this game but I also hate taking off the backglass to complete the update. I am always scared that I might drop or break it. To prevent having to take it off for an update, I just installed a USB extension cable that will allow me to complete an update without removing the backglass. Here is the 90 degree USB cable that I used. I think it is a great upgrade/insurance for $8
amazon.com link »[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

#3519 1 year ago
Quoted from paragon07:

Perfect solution, was thinking the same.

Ha! Yep I had the same thought too, only I was thinking of getting the Amazon USB extension cable (9 ft. long) so I could run it all the way through the bottom of the back box and cabinet to the coin door.

#3520 1 year ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Ha! Yep I had the same thought too, only I was thinking of getting the Amazon USB extension cable (9 ft. long) so I could run it all the way through the bottom of the back box and cabinet to the coin door.

This is what JJP does, and they’re nice enough to include the cable from the factory.

#3521 1 year ago

Oh man, just lit Invalid Frenzy on a Smart Missile hit...no spoilers but that mode was amazing!!!!!

#3522 1 year ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

Oh man, just lit Invalid Frenzy on a Smart Missile hit...no spoilers but that mode was amazing!!!!!

I saw that in the smart missile options yesterday. I didn't realise that was for the mode. I thought it was a bug

#3523 1 year ago
Quoted from Jesder:

I saw that in the smart missile options yesterday. I didn't realise that was for the mode. I thought it was a bug

Yeah, it's a quick route to the mode via the smart missile, or you could take the control room completion route

#3524 1 year ago
Quoted from Scribbles:

Ok, here's what I found out on my truck.... First few hundred games or so, the truck worked like a champ. Then slowly it became a bit more difficult to get it to spin. What I discovered was the ball attatched to the truck wasnt always making good contact with the stationary ball. Therefore, no kinetic energy was being transferred to spin the truck, even with a solid hit. Very frustrating. Here's my fix. Remove the truck, easy to do with a set screw from below the playfield. You'll find a couple of metal washers on the shaft that sandwich a nylon washer with tiny ball bearings in it. I used the smallest amount of a good silicone lubricant on those bearings, and on the metal shaft. I actually sprayed the lubricant on a q-tip, then applied to the parts. Reassemble the mechanism, leaving a tiny bit of wiggle in the shaft. The jeep spins like greased lighting now. Zero issues. DONT use wd40, or oil. Use a 100% silicone lubricant. Available at most auto parts stores.

That is awesome, thanks for the info! I will work on it this weekend.

#3525 1 year ago
Quoted from spidey:

That is awesome, thanks for the info! I will work on it this weekend.

Let me know if that's the fix on yours as well. It may be a common issue that's just beginning to emerge now that these machines have a good amount of plays on them. If you gently drop the truck with your hand (simulating a weak hit), see if the truck ball falls into position and comes to rest actually making contact with the stationary ball. Mine did not.

#3526 1 year ago
Quoted from Scribbles:

Let me know if that's the fix on yours as well. It may be a common issue that's just beginning to emerge now that these machines have a good amount of plays on them.

Yep it's very likely. Sometimes the truck gets stuck at 180 degrees, or part way up for a while and finally falls back down. So I've assumed at least part of the problem is it's sticking.

#3527 1 year ago
Quoted from spidey:

Yep it's very likely. Sometimes the truck gets stuck at 180 degrees, or part way up for a while and finally falls back down. So I've assumed at least part of the problem is it's sticking.

for me it is the helicopter blade that gets stuck. I haven't had a chance to look and see why yet, I can usually spin it loose but had 3 balls stuck in the ramp today.

#3528 1 year ago

Is it a bug or not that when you go to start your first paddock the rescue shots you need don’t immediately light? Impatient people like me have to wait otherwise there isn’t any way to know which shot needs to be hit so you can’t double flip to start.

#3529 1 year ago
Quoted from jalpert:

Is it a bug or not that when you go to start your first paddock the rescue shots you need don’t immediately light? Impatient people like me have to wait otherwise there isn’t any way to know which shot needs to be hit so you can’t double flip to start.

They should light instantly. Even before the narrator is done talking about save the staff etc...

#3530 1 year ago

So, when you activate the first paddock, all the rescue lights that will be available to hit, light instantly? For me they light before the talking is done, but it takes 5-6 seconds I'd say before they light.

This is only for the first one, subsequent paddocks have lit rescue shots immediately.

Here is an example. First paddock, lights blink red but the rescue lights don't immediately light:

Quoted from Scribbles:

They should light instantly. Even before the narrator is done talking about save the staff etc...

#3531 1 year ago
Quoted from jalpert:

So, when you activate the first paddock, all the rescue lights that will be available to hit, light instantly? For me they light before the talking is done, but it takes 5-6 seconds I'd say before they light.
This is only for the first one, subsequent paddocks have lit rescue shots immediately.
Here is an example. First paddock, lights blink red but the rescue lights don't immediately light:

Well, the first 3 should light. It may not be instant, but definitely before the ball is released. I've never thought to myself "man, I really need more time to see which shots are lit" I can play some more this evening, and pay closer attention to the timing. Just from memory, my first set of rescues light before the talking is done and well before the ball is released. I'd guess your machine is behaving normally.

#3532 1 year ago

Mine do exactly what you are saying.
If you skip the animation they don't light up right away (only on the first paddock). I usually just shoot for the spinner or right ramp. I dont think it's a "bug" though.

Quoted from jalpert:

Is it a bug or not that when you go to start your first paddock the rescue shots you need don’t immediately light? Impatient people like me have to wait otherwise there isn’t any way to know which shot needs to be hit so you can’t double flip to start.

#3533 1 year ago
Quoted from Scribbles:

Well, the first 3 should light. It may not be instant, but definitely before the ball is released. I've never thought to myself "man, I really need more time to see which shots are lit" I can play some more this evening, and pay closer attention to the timing. Just from memory, my first set of rescues light before the talking is done and well before the ball is released. I'd guess your machine is behaving normally.

When you let the entire animation play I think you have a decent amount of time before ball release to see which ones are lit. If, however, you’re like me and sometimes hit both flippers to get on with it then you have a shorter time before the ball is released to see which ones are lit. I’d like it better if they lit sooner. I think there are a couple spots though where the rescues do light instantly or at least a lot sooner for some reason.

#3534 1 year ago
Quoted from Gotfrogs:

I love how Stern keeps releasing new code for this game but I also hate taking off the backglass to complete the update. I am always scared that I might drop or break it. To prevent having to take it off for an update, I just installed a USB extension cable that will allow me to complete an update without removing the backglass. Here is the 90 degree USB cable that I used. I think it is a great upgrade/insurance for $8
amazon.com link »[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Or get an even longer one and extend it down to the coin door. Did that with Batman 66 since I was a day 1 buyer and there was a ridiculous amount of code updates.

#3535 1 year ago

My new coil stops arrived. I invited some buddies over to help with this simple repair; just 2 screws out, put the new coil stop in and screw it back together. Did all three no problem.
What I took out was the plate with a hole and the spring washer- for all three coil stops. I thought the coil stop disintegrated or something.
We got the game running again, however, the flippers only moved half way. That didn’t seem right. We followed the simple instructions.
But then I had an idea- what if the button was still in the coil sleeve!
We took a look, and sure enough the buttons were in all three coil sleeves.
We took the buttons out, and this time also remembered to put the spring washer back on the new coil stops too.
My audits say that I had 50,000 left flips and 70,000 right flips.
How do these coil stops break so easily? Are the a bad batch or a cheap batch?
I’m glad it was a simple fix, and the shots are now quick and snappy!

81818601_10157785396036113_7219170099872137216_n (resized).jpg82781144_10157785396096113_954365454275575808_n (resized).jpg
#3536 1 year ago
Quoted from kevindrives:

My new coil stops arrived. I invited some buddies over to help with this simple repair; just 2 screws out, put the new coil stop in and screw it back together. Did all three no problem.
What I took out was the plate with a hole and the spring washer- for all three coil stops. I thought the coil stop disintegrated or something.
We got the game running again, however, the flippers only moved half way. That didn’t seem right. We followed the simple instructions.
But then I had an idea- what if the button was still in the coil sleeve!
We took a look, and sure enough the buttons were in all three coil sleeves.
We took the buttons out, and this time also remembered to put the spring washer back on the new coil stops too.
My audits say that I had 50,000 left flips and 70,000 right flips.
How do these coil stops break so easily? Are the a bad batch or a cheap batch?
I’m glad it was a simple fix, and the shots are now quick and snappy![quoted image][quoted image]

Not sure what is up with Stern flipper mechs. I had a GB premium that I had to rebuild the flippers several times in a short amount of time.

#3537 1 year ago

Screw up on the line of the contractor that made the coil stops.

Welding? Rivet/Press? Rod/Hole Size? Metal Quality? Human Error?

#3538 1 year ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

Screw up on the line of the contractor that made the coil stops.
Welding? Rivet/Press? Rod/Hole Size? Metal Quality? Human Error?

A4E9FE49-FC17-43FE-A44C-78A5D58B1DCB.gif
#3539 1 year ago

Happens when the Meds kick in!

#3540 1 year ago

Can someone hyperlink me directly to the proper replacement coil stops? Sounds like most folks get them from pinball life. I always find their catalog a little overwhelming.

EaglePin : loving your flipper power settings!! Thank you! I'm finding that I can hit the outer shots finally

#3542 1 year ago

The easiest way to locate at part is to go to the manual of that game, find the part number, and then search Pinball Life for the part number. If they stock it, it will come right up.

Quoted from JediMcMuffin:

Can someone hyperlink me directly to the proper replacement coil stops? Sounds like most folks get them from pinball life. I always find their catalog a little overwhelming.

#3543 1 year ago
Quoted from Scribbles:

Ok, here's what I found out on my truck.... First few hundred games or so, the truck worked like a champ. Then slowly it became a bit more difficult to get it to spin. What I discovered was the ball attatched to the truck wasnt always making good contact with the stationary ball. Therefore, no kinetic energy was being transferred to spin the truck, even with a solid hit. Very frustrating. Here's my fix. Remove the truck, easy to do with a set screw from below the playfield. You'll find a couple of metal washers on the shaft that sandwich a nylon washer with tiny ball bearings in it. I used the smallest amount of a good silicone lubricant on those bearings, and on the metal shaft. I actually sprayed the lubricant on a q-tip, then applied to the parts. Reassemble the mechanism, leaving a tiny bit of wiggle in the shaft. The jeep spins like greased lighting now. Zero issues. DONT use wd40, or oil. Use a 100% silicone lubricant. Available at most auto parts stores.

OK that did the trick! It's so much better now. The later TREX modes require you to flip the truck all the way around to get letters, so it was really difficult with the truck not moving freely. Thanks again!

#3544 1 year ago
Quoted from spidey:

OK that did the trick! It's so much better now. The later TREX modes require you to flip the truck all the way around to get letters, so it was really difficult with the truck not moving freely. Thanks again!

Awesome! Glad to hear It fixed the problem. This may be one of those things that needs occasional maintenance

#3545 1 year ago

My auto plunge makes the 180 half the time... slo-mo shows it shooting to the left slightly and bobbling before going vertical... help.

#3546 1 year ago
Quoted from Dantesmark:

My auto plunge makes the 180 half the time... slo-mo shows it shooting to the left slightly and bobbling before going vertical... help.

Another pinsider suggested putting a few small spacers under the left screw of the fork closet to the plunger. The theory is that it will help push the ball to the right once plunged. I did this and it helped but didn't completely fix the issue.

Upon further inspection the plunger rod isn't centered to the ball when it's in the shooter lane. I will likely adjust the shooter rod position and feel like that should get me to 100%

#3547 1 year ago
Quoted from Dantesmark:

My auto plunge makes the 180 half the time... slo-mo shows it shooting to the left slightly and bobbling before going vertical... help.

I also did the thin washer under the left fork. It definitely helped. I also put a stiffer spring on the plunger. Check your spring, mine had the wrong one from the factory. Manual says orange, game had green. Orange is stiffer. Those 2 things did the trick for me.

#3548 1 year ago

Any shortcuts, tricks or strategies to get to visitor center other than taking the outside routes?

I get to the last paddock, one of these days i'll break through!

#3549 1 year ago

I wonder if you could put a strip of mylar just on the left side.. maybe two... To help maybe channel the ball towards the halfpipe center

#3550 1 year ago

On my game, the wood was cut deeper on the left side, so the metal ramp by the screw was lower, and easy to feel this.
I shimmed with folded business card cutting, a couple folds, and only tightened to level.
Lowered coil strength, centered rod, and changed spring. Works the loop now 90%+

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