I wish Stern would allow us to backorder the shooter knob. I’ve been trying every day for 1.5 weeks...
I’m not sure how some of you ordered last weekend.
(Topic ID: 248582)
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Jurassic Park (30th Anniversary LE)
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Jurassic Park (Limited Edition)
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Quoted from anathematize:- first time is chaos mb
- second time is a control room mode
- third time is another chaos mb
- fourth time... i have no idea lol
Fourth is nothing
Fifth is another Chaos mb.
didn't get to Sixth
Bethany Beach, DE
Quoted from EaglePin:I haven’t had any SDTM issues from the control lane. Depends on how hard the shot in and bounce out is but usually comes back to the flipper. When released from the post mine is also coming to the flipper.
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:On my machine On my machine the ball always rolls down to the Left side flipper. You can either catch it or let it dead bounce over to the right flipper
Thanks - I paid a little more attention and rolled the ball a few times with glass off and saw that the light escape target was actually tilted slightly in so the ball caught the target and bounced out just at the very end perfectly to the middle. I pushed the target over and it's perfect now.
My brother just got his "1 and only pin". A JP Premium. He doesn't get on here so I'm joining the club for him to keep up with things.
I'll have to visit him more often now 
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:I might wait until next fall. But if I ordered now I wonder if I would get the new playfield with art removed from under the posts or not?
To me, I'd rather get the Pro and mod it with shaker and new T-Rex coming out and all the other great mods. I could do this and still spend far less than a premium.
That's exactly what I did. Shaker, Pinstadium lighting, inside art blades, and I got my armor coated in the same metallic green locally for $125. As far as I know, no more playfields are being shipped with art under the posts. My understanding was that got changed early on. I could be mistaken though.
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:That's exactly what I did. Shaker, Pinstadium lighting, inside art blades, and I got my armor coated in the same metallic green locally for $125. As far as I know, no more playfields are being shipped with art under the posts. My understanding was that got changed early on. I could be mistaken though.
I don't have art under the posts on my premium with a build date of 10/22, but I still have playfield issues. All 4 of my up posts have some degree of defects and one spot has chipped clear and missing paint. It will get worse over time for sure, so the playfield issues are not behind them, no matter what has been said.
Quoted from andrewket:I wish Stern would allow us to backorder the shooter knob. I’ve been trying every day for 1.5 weeks...
I’m not sure how some of you ordered last weekend.
I tried ordering the shooter this morning and..... It WORKED!!
Quoted from MrMikeman:I tried ordering the shooter this morning and..... It WORKED!!
Just tried...no go.
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:I might wait until next fall. But if I ordered now I wonder if I would get the new playfield with art removed from under the posts or not?
To me, I'd rather get the Pro and mod it with shaker and new T-Rex coming out and all the other great mods. I could do this and still spend far less than a premium.
My distributor checked with Stern and was told its the new design, so i pulled the trigger. Living in norway.
But with the pooling, should not that warrant a populated replacement playfield?
Quoted from pninja005:So pro's have problems, premiums have problems and LE's are ok?
What premium problems?
Quoted from J-Freeze:What premium problems?
Apparently some premium guys are reporting the playfield pooling clear issue.
A few things to report in:
I installed my replacement Stern shaker motor this week and boy what a difference! It was hard to describe the issue other than saying "it's rattling really really loud" which of course would lead folks to tell me to check parts of my playfield and such and I did find a wireform to be loose. Still, now that the replacement is in I can now actually hear the other things that might be loose.
I received two kits from Stern to address my upper flipper post looseness and the chipping around it. I was surprised to see that fixing the post requires removing the flipper and getting undernear the playfield so much. I've decided to sit on that procedure until I have some downtime and I can apply this clearcoat fix a bit and take my time resolving it.
Watching Keith's explanation of the rules on Deadflip has changed the game for me. I'm still a noob and some pin-vocabulary still trips me up.
Quoted from JediMcMuffin:A few things to report in:
I installed my replacement Stern shaker motor this week and boy what a difference! It was hard to describe the issue other than saying "it's rattling really really loud"
Could you describe that a bit more? Mine rattles a lot. It sounds more like the glass though. I have shakers on all my other pins and it's more of a vibration. I just thought this is a bit more intense. This was the only pin I've ever had to tone down the shaker for. I never thought about examining the shaker itself.
Quoted from JediMcMuffin:A few things to report in:
I installed my replacement Stern shaker motor this week and boy what a difference! It was hard to describe the issue other than saying "it's rattling really really loud" which of course would lead folks to tell me to check parts of my playfield and such and I did find a wireform to be loose. Still, now that the replacement is in I can now actually hear the other things that might be loose.
I received two kits from Stern to address my upper flipper post looseness and the chipping around it. I was surprised to see that fixing the post requires removing the flipper and getting undernear the playfield so much. I've decided to sit on that procedure until I have some downtime and I can apply this clearcoat fix a bit and take my time resolving it.
Watching Keith's explanation of the rules on Deadflip has changed the game for me. I'm still a noob and some pin-vocabulary still trips me up.
The post replacement is actually very easy. You can do it in no time at all. Maybe 20 minutes. A couple tips, once you have the playfield up and see the bottom of the flipper post, mark it with a sharpie in relation to the clamp holding it. This will help immensely when you go to re-align the flipper. Second, the folks at stern said the lock nut would clear the flipper plate no problem. It doesnt. It touches just a bit. When you reinstall the 8 bolts that hold the flipper plate in place, treat it like you would lug nuts on a wheel. Barely tighten one, then another, and work your way around the plate slowly tightening until it's done. That way the new underside nut doesnt put undue stress on the plate. If this is your first pin, congrats! You picked a great one!!
Quoted from hawkmoon77:Could you describe that a bit more? Mine rattles a lot. It sounds more like the glass though. I have shakers on all my other pins and it's more of a vibration. I just thought this is a bit more intense. This was the only pin I've ever had to tone down the shaker for. I never thought about examining the shaker itself.
Mine rattles as well, but I'm confident it's just the glass. The shaker in JP is just used so often and intensely, I'm thinking some rattles are unavoidable. You can turn down the shaker intensity/frequency in the games menu if desired.
Quoted from J-Freeze:What premium problems?
My premium is 10/22 build date. All 4 up posts have varying degrees of defects. There's a chip and missing paint on left in lane. Poor quality control. It should not have left the factory like this. Problems have been reported to Stern through my distributor. The issues are definitely not a thing of the past. I'll report back when we come to a final resolution but I want people to be aware that things have changed but problems still exist.
20191029_152931 (resized).jpg20191029_152950 (resized).jpg20191029_153008 (resized).jpg20191029_152939 (resized).jpgQuoted from hawkmoon77:Could you describe that a bit more? Mine rattles a lot. It sounds more like the glass though. I have shakers on all my other pins and it's more of a vibration. I just thought this is a bit more intense. This was the only pin I've ever had to tone down the shaker for. I never thought about examining the shaker itself.
The first thing I did was remove the cover, thinking the plastic was too close to the spinning weights. That made no difference, then I rotated one of the weights 90 degrees to tone it down a bit more and that didn't help. To me it was almost like the frame of the motor itself was rattling, and the speed it was spinning at was way too fast. It was so loud and obnoxious that I couldn't hear my Polk sub woofer over it. This was especially noticeable during the T-Rex chase event with the long roars.
I eventually disabled it until the replacement arrived. I'll have to go back and chase down the last few rattles which as other folks have said is probably the glass. The combination of the sub + fixed shaker makes for some really nice play.
Quoted from JediMcMuffin:The first thing I did was remove the cover, thinking the plastic was too close to the spinning weights. That made no difference, then I rotated one of the weights 90 degrees to tone it down a bit more and that didn't help. To me it was almost like the frame of the motor itself was rattling, and the speed it was spinning at was way too fast. It was so loud and obnoxious that I couldn't hear my Polk sub woofer over it. This was especially noticeable during the T-Rex chase event with the long roars.
I eventually disabled it until the replacement arrived. I'll have to go back and chase down the last few rattles which as other folks have said is probably the glass. The combination of the sub + fixed shaker makes for some really nice play.
Hmmm... I'm not sure that mine is normal then. When it goes, it drowns everything else out. I'll pay more attention to it. Thanks for the additional info.
Quoted from hawkmoon77:Hmmm... I'm not sure that mine is normal then. When it goes, it drowns everything else out. I'll pay more attention to it. Thanks for the additional info.
I had to return a shaker cause it was too powerful .. stern was really quick about it
Quoted from ezeltmann:I had to return a shaker cause it was too powerful .. stern was really quick about it
Hmmm... I just thought it was the game. I turned it down in the settings to "long" and it is not as violent, but it isn't the same experience. I almost need an in between setting. I'm going to wait and locate another premium/le and compare.
Use some anti rattle tape, I use this stuff and it completely eliminates the glass rattle
https://pinballpro.net/shop/anti-rattle-tape-ar-1/
You don't see it at all when the glass is back in
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:Mine rattles as well, but I'm confident it's just the glass. The shaker in JP is just used so often and intensely, I'm thinking some rattles are unavoidable. You can turn down the shaker intensity/frequency in the games menu if desired.
The best way to handle rattling glass is to put anti-rattle tape down left and right side of the glass. Flipper Fidelity sells it, as I had to look all over to find some.
Edit, just noticed someone else had the same answer, above mine. He has another source to order from as well. He’s right, it is spear and unseen after installation, but makes all the difference in the world. I’ve used it on all my machines with shakers.
That's odd. I don't think the shaker on my LE is noisy at all - about on par with my other shaker games (BSM,BDK,TH,WOZ), maybe actually a bit quieter than some. No problem hearing the soundtrack, or with anything rattling oddly. The level of shaking on "maximal" is what I would expect, with a great degree of difference in effects, like the low (silent) rumble when introducing the first rescue mode, or all the hard thumping in the T-Rex modes.
A reminder to newer nib owners that dialing in flippers, shakers, tightening screws, and checking connections are normal.
Clearly a few have had serious issues, but others can get familiar with machine menu and manual to control what you can to keep enjoying your new game.
Congrats!!
Most of any continuing rattle seems to be coming from the back glass, that's more than tolerable though.
What's the difference between backglass and translite.
Quoted from JediMcMuffin:Most of any continuing rattle seems to be coming from the back glass, that's more than tolerable though.
What's the difference between backglass and translite.
My understanding is a backglass is actual glass with artwork printed or screened on. The translite is essentially clear plastic with a sheet of artwork behind it. It can be swapped out easily for alternate artwork. Back in the day, all pins from the major manufacturers had actual glass. Not sure when translates were first introduced, but it saves money in manufacturing I imagine.
Quoted from Thunderbird:The best way to handle rattling glass is to put anti-rattle tape down left and right side of the glass. Flipper Fidelity sells it, as I had to look all over to find some.
So does Pinball Pro
https://pinballpro.net/shop/anti-rattle-tape-ar-1/
** Also, the directions that came with my tape instruct to install tape on all four sides of playfield glass. And a second layer if you still get some rattle after the first layer..
.. It worked for me on ACNC. Big sub comes in that game!
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:My understanding is a backglass is actual glass with artwork printed or screened on. The translite is essentially clear plastic with a sheet of artwork behind it. It can be swapped out easily for alternate artwork. Back in the day, all pins from the major manufacturers had actual glass. Not sure when translates were first introduced, but it saves money in manufacturing I imagine.
And then there are the LE only mirrored back glasses. These are real nice but expensive. There is no light blead in the mirrored areas, so the black levels are perfect and this makes the colors pop! Like an OLED TV.
I received a shaker motor this evening & the plastic case doesn't fit snug over the motor. The coin box wood bracket & side inside cabinet is blocking the case from going completely down, even with the motor. I ordered the Spike shaker from CoinTaker w/ a part # 502-5027-01. Is there a difference w/ Spike1 & Spike2 motors, or is this motor simply not compatible w/ JP3?
Quoted from ezeltmann:I had to return a shaker cause it was too powerful .. stern was really quick about it
It’s not the shaker it’s the code that determines how much shake there is. Also you can control the intensity settings, there are three levels I believe.
Quoted from ercvacation:My premium is 10/22 build date. All 4 up posts have varying degrees of defects. There's a chip and missing paint on left in lane. Poor quality control. It should not have left the factory like this. Problems have been reported to Stern through my distributor. The issues are definitely not a thing of the past. I'll report back when we come to a final resolution but I want people to be aware that things have changed but problems still exist.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
It looks like that’s just how they were drilled. Yours is just worse. I just got mine and none of the pop up holes are perfectly round as typical and there are small nicks in two of them already. I’m just going to put Mylar down around them and I think that will keep it from getting any worse.
Quoted from GamerRick:It’s not the shaker it’s the code that determines how much shake there is. Also you can control the intensity settings, there are three levels I believe.
I had understood the adjustment only changes how often the shaker is engaged, now how intense it is. I can tell you my replacement shaker is nowhere near as powerful as the one my distributor installed.
Quoted from Ockeyhead:I received a shaker motor this evening & the plastic case doesn't fit snug over the motor. The coin box wood bracket & side inside cabinet is blocking the case from going completely down, even with the motor. I ordered the Spike shaker from CoinTaker w/ a part # 502-5027-01. Is there a difference w/ Spike1 & Spike2 motors, or is this motor simply not compatible w/ JP3?
I also got my shaker and machine from cointaker. I ordered them together. I don't have the part # on the shaker they sent me, but I didn't have any issues fitting the cover over the motor. I did however have to purchase 4 longer bolts to secure the shaker itself. The ones included were much too short and only had a thread or 2 bite on them. 1 actually stripped.
Quoted from JediMcMuffin:I had understood the adjustment only changes how often the shaker is engaged, now how intense it is. I can tell you my replacement shaker is nowhere near as powerful as the one my distributor installed.
If you remove the shaker cover, there is an offset weight on both sides of the motor. There are little Allen screws that you can loosen and adjust the position of the weight. Only need to adjust one side relative to the other. If they're both in the same position (on both sides of motor) you will get the maximum shake. I had to tame my ST one down because it was rattling the glass so much. I could try installing anti-rattle tape I guess. It worked in my ACNC.
IMG_3187_1024x1024@2x (resized).jpgQuoted from Mr_Outlane:If you remove the shaker cover, there is an offset weight on both sides of the motor. There are little Allen screws that you can loosen and adjust the position of the weight. Only need to adjust one side relative to the other. If they're both in the same position (on both sides of motor) you will get the maximum shake. I had to tame my ST one down because it was rattling the glass so much. I could try installing anti-rattle tape I guess. It worked in my ACNC.[quoted image]
Thanks for this. It makes sense. I was actually considering grinding down the weight a bit to tame it, but realized that t was a one-way adjustment that couldn't be undone if I went too far. Your description is perfect. It should be an easy tweak.
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:If you remove the shaker cover, there is an offset weight on both sides of the motor. There are little Allen screws that you can loosen and adjust the position of the weight. Only need to adjust one side relative to the other. If they're both in the same position (on both sides of motor) you will get the maximum shake. I had to tame my ST one down because it was rattling the glass so much. I could try installing anti-rattle tape I guess. It worked in my ACNC.[quoted image]
I’ve installed about 20 shakers. Confused on JP. Shaker from pinball life. It comes with an inline 4 inch capacitor with connectors. I can’t see any way they line up. Here is pic of my install without the extra inline connector. Where does it go ?
E5704F36-DBBC-4CBA-BAEA-EB82B2DC91EF (resized).jpeg
Quoted from billsfanmd:I’ve installed about 20 shakers. Confused on JP. Shaker from pinball life. It comes with an inline 4 inch capacitor with connectors. I can’t see any way they line up. Here is pic of my install without the extra inline connector. Where does it go ?
[quoted image]
It’s a filter into a different connector on the same board you plugged in the shaker harness to. Should be in the instructions, if not I’ll take a pic.
Quoted from zaphX:It’s a filter into a different connector on the same board you plugged in the shaker harness to. Should be in the instructions, if not I’ll take a pic.
Thx!
no instructions came with my kit. Just looked on pinball life site. They have a pdf. Funny thing is in the first pic you the shaker and about 12 inches of wire/conn. Then you see the install where they wire travels around 20 inches all the way to the board. No mention of the filter.
Quoted from Budman:[quoted image]
Thx. That is not even mentioned
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:If you remove the shaker cover, there is an offset weight on both sides of the motor. There are little Allen screws that you can loosen and adjust the position of the weight. Only need to adjust one side relative to the other. If they're both in the same position (on both sides of motor) you will get the maximum shake. I had to tame my ST one down because it was rattling the glass so much. I could try installing anti-rattle tape I guess. It worked in my ACNC.[quoted image]
So due to the registration marks on the shaft (for the set screw), I was only able to rotate a full 90 degrees. It's a bit too tame for my liking, but still much better then reducing the usage in the menu. I kind of wish they had additional registration holes offset from each other on both sides of the shaft... D=Even with one more registration mark on each side (and depending on how they did the offsets), you'd be able to set a large variety of angles for some pretty good fine tuning. I'm going to leave mine at 90 degrees for awhile and see if I like it. Although it is far less dramatic, the shaking is not just tamer, but slower -- which seems more in line with a dino roar than the high frequency vibration that was happening before. So although it's more muted, it seems to fit better.
It's also far, far better than the jack hammer it was before.
I am loving my new Jurassic Park Pro, super fun and great flow once you dial in your shots. I installed my new Amber shooter rod that I make and it looks great. A real Crane Fly in the middle of the honey colored resin shooter goes with the games theme. I refined the design , and finished up another batch of shooter rods. These are really tough to make, 1st poured into a mold halfway, then plop in a fly (oh so carefully ), mount to a high speed lathe (very dangerous ), shaped into an egg shape, then polished with a multitude of sandpapers and finally polishing. Are we done...nope. The base is grinded down , polished and drilled , then glued for a shooter rod. So ..I can see the delay from Stern. Mine are available now in limited quantities. Other cool Dino mods as well. I hope you like them. Chuck
egg on game (resized).jpgegg on game1 (resized).jpgjp_amber_rod_1024x1024 (resized).pngQuoted from modfather:I am loving my new Jurassic Park Pro, super fun and great flow once you dial in your shots. I installed my new Amber shooter rod that I make and it looks great. A real Crane Fly in the middle of the honey colored resin shooter goes with the games theme. I refined the design , and finished up another batch of shooter rods. These are really tough to make, 1st poured into a mold halfway, then plop in a fly (oh so carefully ), mount to a high speed lathe (very dangerous ), shaped into an egg shape, then polished with a multitude of sandpapers and finally polishing. Are we done...nope. The base is grinded down , polished and drilled , then glued for a shooter rod. So ..I can see the delay from Stern. Mine are available now in limited quantities. Other cool Dino mods as well. I hope you like them. Chuck
https://modfatherpinball.com/collections/jurassic-park-stern/products/jurassic-park-amber-with-mosquito-shooter-stern[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I like your items...ordering some trees , a few goats and some birds today.
Does someone have a link to the instruction for stern shooter with plate or is it easy plug and play?
Quoted from modfather:I am loving my new Jurassic Park Pro, super fun and great flow once you dial in your shots. I installed my new Amber shooter rod that I make and it looks great. A real Crane Fly in the middle of the honey colored resin shooter goes with the games theme. I refined the design , and finished up another batch of shooter rods. These are really tough to make, 1st poured into a mold halfway, then plop in a fly (oh so carefully ), mount to a high speed lathe (very dangerous ), shaped into an egg shape, then polished with a multitude of sandpapers and finally polishing. Are we done...nope. The base is grinded down , polished and drilled , then glued for a shooter rod. So ..I can see the delay from Stern. Mine are available now in limited quantities. Other cool Dino mods as well. I hope you like them. Chuck
https://modfatherpinball.com/collections/jurassic-park-stern/products/jurassic-park-amber-with-mosquito-shooter-stern[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Nice job Chuck! It’s looks much cleaner and finished now. Thanks for the improvements
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