There are three small black screws that hold the jaw in place. You might have lost all of them into the playfield/cabinet over the last few years and didn’t notice.

Some people come in and out of threads. More power to you to be in the know and share the info

Thanks to MiniPinHead and Oneironaut for the helpful pointers. Sounds like an easy fix.

I have a JP Prem, and the same thing happened to me approx. 2-weeks ago. It looks to me like fig. 5.48, on p. 58 of the manual shows the lower jaw (part #21) and the 3-screws (part #22) that hold the jaw in position. The strange thing about this parts diagram is that part #21 appears to me to be the lower jaw, but it's shown upside down. If you look at part #4 in that same diagram, it looks identical (except that it's also upside down) to part #3 in fig. 5.55 on p. 61 where it's shown in correct orientation. Fig 5.48 shows parts nos. 21, 4, & 1, all upside down. I haven't checked on the other parts in fig. 5.48 to see if any of them are also shown upside down. I've never seen parts shown upside down before in a parts diagram w/o a note saying so.

In my case both wires, that are soldered to the opto switch right above the lower jaw, broke loose so I must remove T-rex to re-solder them back on as well as re-attach the lower jaw. While you are working re-attaching the jaw, I suggest that you check these wires to see if they're still soldered correctly. While you are doing this, you can do me a favor and tell me which solder connection the brown wire is soldered to, and which the red is soldered to. If you could take a pic of this and post it I would appreciate it. You might want to read my original post on this subject (#21826) and the subsequent comments.

It’s fairly simple to do and a guide on front page from stern.

Just make sure to adjust in settings your Dino head position and jaw . You want jaw to open and barely rest above ramp

This post answered this question with a photo: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/437#post-8293319

Very happy with the Pro Translite on my JP Premium. ... And that Home Edition does look pretty cool too...
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I did the opposite; I put a Premium translite in my JP Pro! I really like how it looks with the Pro cabinet.

I still have the original Pro translite stored in a closet somewhere. DM me if you want to buy it on the cheap!

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I have a JP home translite I am not using if anyone is interested. $50

PM sent

Not so fast to assume the question has been correctly answered. Markharris2000 said "This might help. Not exact" etc. Markharris2000's pic appeared to be from Marco Specialities, and was NOT a direct pic from a JP game. I was gonna try wiring it according to Mark's pic, however, if someone can easily provide a pic directly from his/her JP game, it would give me more confidence that it's correct, which is why I asked arcadem if he could provide a pic since he already had the lower jaw removed. I have a few more days before I work on getting this problem fixed, so if I get a quick pic from arcadem, all the better.

Sorry but did not see picture request before I completed the repair and reassembled the game. PM me if you have a specific question and I will try to help

.

Loving these liorillusion (Art of Pinball) signs! Now I can actually see what to shoot. Also got the Pteranodon installed. Making progress…

Thanks to Willy_C_Wonka fir the hookup!

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Re: outlanes just picked up a prem and I’ve been getting throughly frustrated by outlanes drains. Ball never breaks to the in lanes. Gonna double check level but I set the game up at 6.7 and then read afterwards that 7.0 is ideal. Do you think this is the cause or maybe just early bad luck. I dunno…

I have all my games setup at 6.5. No outlane complaints here. Nothing compared to my SW, that thing is an outlane hungry monster. You might be too high and not giving the ball a chance to bounce around.

Wow those signs are awesome ! Would love a set for my JP.

Off topic, How do you like your PF? I have one on order.

Hey all, my raptor gate is not going all the way down and a large lip that will either make the ball jump or it will press the gate all the way down. If the gate goes all the way down, it gets stuck down.

Has this happened to anyone else? Is there a fix for it? Here is a video of what is doing

Thanks in advance for your help

The last bit of that video confirmed it for me, it’s out of alignment slightly and rubbing somewhere on the edge of the playfield. I would lift up the playfield and poke around.

We are digging it big time! Also have an LE on order - just couldn't wait till it gets here. So there will be one more SE hitting the market...some day.

Mine is an outlane magnet - or so it seems compared to other pins. I watched VinnyBlanc 's Twitch stream the other night - nice- and I was also paying close attention to how the ball behaved in the outlanes. Nothing scientific / statistical: it seems like he had above average outlane drains (average pinball in general), but slightly less than my personal experience with JP. My challenge seems like I'm not able to nudge/ encourage the ball away from the outlane the way that I can with other pins, such as Godzilla (and Pulp Fiction). JP's not as bad as EHoH - or at least the one that I used to own - Elvira was a nasty b**** when it came to those outlanes! Lol
So now I am experimenting with the adjustable post placements and rubbers. I would be very curious to know what is working well for those who do not feel as though this is an outlane drain machine.

Cheers!

Big Willy

WillM thanks for the support and stopping by. It was great having you on the stream.
Lots of new mods going in as they come so def stop back next Wednesday! Twitch.tv/vinnyblanc

So here is my observation watching much better pinball players than myself…

The ball never really seems to be in danger when they play. To me, the danger zone is right at the apex of the slings. I feel like most games are designed to drain to the outlane when taking a feed (designed) to the top of the sling if you do nothing. So the trick is knowing when/where to nudge way in advance when the ball is at a point where it’s going to feed that danger zone. When it can’t be avoided I try and give the machine a stiff nudge ‘forward’ when the ball is is at the top of the sling to change the default ball path (outlane typically)

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Here's what I did to reduce the number of outlane drains on my JP game: Replaced the narrow metal posts with fatter plastic posts and added fatter rubber. The drain is still a ball magnet, but not as much as before.
Nobody has complained about my modification yet.

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You can move the posts to make the outlanes narrower. I did that but they are still very hungry!

I just ran into this. It’s a very simple mechanism. The motor spins with a post that pushes the gate up and lets gravity lower the gate when it moves the post down. When this happened to me, a wire to the target or something else had wedged under the gate. Just check under the playfield to see if something is interfering with it dropping all the way down. Chances are this is not due to the gate rubbing into something.

Anyone with a Pro have interest in buying YoyoKopter's Trex Alive mod? Makes the T-Rex move side to side based on what switches are triggered. Not sure if they are still available for sale.

Hey what would you guys recommend doing about this Mylar corner peeling up below the flippers?

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That’s not stock, but was added to protect the outhole from chipping on the edge. Replace it with new, thin mylar. Wax and wipe before putting the new piece down.

For best results and less hassles, order the Cliffy’s Protectors set for JP:

https://www.passionforpinball.com/wip.htm

I experience the exact same.. the tiniest error is punished (outlane posts are in the mid position)

I just picked up a JP Premium a couple of weeks ago. Such an amazing game! Just had one helluva game made it to the visitor center but I choked on the shot and drained. Damn was it fun ended up 613m. What a change of pace from my TMNT tho. I still think TMNT is an underrated game!

Is movie code necessary for this?

No. I actually removed the movie code the previous owner installed on my LE and enjoy the Stern code with Insider Connected much more

Any adjustments that can be made to increase movement on my raptor? Not getting much of anything on direct hits to target. NIB premium…

Agreed that stock code is great and a lot of fun. Movie is also fun and spices things up if you ever need a change, at least temporarily. What I refuse to do is swap between movie code and stock if the node boards have to get updated, which only occurs if the movie code version is older than stock.

I assume that movie code will get one more update after the speaker light coding hits the machine, as that should be it for coding for JP

Photos would be helpful.

When I first received my JP 30th it did the same thing. In my case, the culprit was a small tie wrap that was in place to secure the raptor in transit. I think I have a picture. Once I removed that the raptor moved perfectly. It is a simple mechanism.

Ahh I must have missed this!

I thought I had a picture. I do not. Did you find the tie wrap?

TBP

Too busy playing

I've never had a large amount of movement on my raptor (no tie wrap). The molding of her right leg seems to be incorrect on mine because she's always leaning pretty far forward already, so when you hit her target, you don't see much movement.

I've tried bending, twisting, and adjusting the lock nuts that hold her down and connect the body to the legs with no luck. I think I'd have to heat up the leg so I could "mold" it to what it should be so she's normally standing up, but I'm not brave enough to do this, so I live with it. I have the Mezel Mods raptor cage mod on the cage anyway which is pretty cool, so it doesn't really matter.

Insider connect works with movie code fyi.

Yea I don’t mind original code I just hear people raving about the movie code.

I liked the opening helicopter movie scene with that code, but that's where it ended. The instructional callouts and tips in the original code were missing and it was difficult to know what to shoot for, plus I was concerned about the game getting blacklisted by Stern while connected to IC with modified code. Anyway, I much prefer the factory code and will watch the movie if I want to watch repetitive movie scenes. JP is an amazing pin, regardless of which code

March 2024-built Jurassic Park Premium pics for comparison to earlier builds

Arch or apron decal that debuted on the 30th AE / LE is a very nice touch. Goes with what gets put into other games like Godzilla and Jaws

Apron Decal

Lights for the flippers is another nice add that's in Godzilla and Jaws

Apron Lights

Noticed the raptor is changed in a few ways that never noticed before

Raptor

The raptor weight doesn't look like a bunch of magnets stacked together anymore, but one big weight. Thought this was cleaner looking

Weight

Never noticed this bracket before for the raptor, which has a black zip tie that I believe you are NOT supposed to cut. Never noticed a bracket in previous builds, but could be wrong

Bracket

All in all, nice to see changes 4+ years later happening in the physical build for JP. Looking forward to another code update from Stern for the speaker lights

Uh oh. I cut mine. Wonder what it does?

You can easily put a new, black zip tie on it. I believe it's to help keep the raptor straight, especially when the ball hits the bracket and toggles the movement.

MiniPinHead thanks for pointing out the changes in the raptor. I also have a new build and not seeing much “movement” on direct hits. How about you?

I ordered a new raptor from Stern to replace my leaner... it came with the same washer style weights...

How does it “move” compared to the previous one? I wonder if the new weight is heavier? Too heavy?

I have an extra one of these Wizard Mod speaker grill cover.
No defect.

PM me … $60 shipped.

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Am I too late to the game to get a Jada 1/43 Jeep? Anyone have any connections?