Silicone lubricant is necessary, trust me.

My lubricant to use on machines is sewing machine oil. Tiniest possible drop. It's meant to be on small metal parts and non corrosive. Works great on spinners, and I also used it on my AIQ portal disc shaft. I'm not quite sure exactly what parts it would touch for the JP truck (don't put it on anything plastic), so this is not a recommendation, just something to consider if you want. And did I say tiniest possible drop.

For me at least, the bearings plus the extra rubber is all I need. No lubricant.

Whoever is talking about lubricants and the Jeep washers hasn’t purchased these yet:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BXY65ZK1

Make sure you get the 7mm x 15mm x 5mm variant

7x15x5

Lubricant for a worn-out part, or a poorly-formed part, is just a bandage. This part is also good for the helicopter. Enjoy

I have those. After a couple years, my jeep was not turning as well. One tiny drop of line on the shaft was so that was needed to bring it back. Yes, someday I’ll tear it down, put in a fresh bearing, clean the shaft and carry on, but likely not for quite awhile.

I did, yes. I have a JP30 LE built last year, and I discovered after a few weeks that my jeep's bushing was deformed (not worn from use, but likely deformed from the original molding). I had a spare precision flipper bushing in and thought I would try it, with a couple drops of 3-in-1 oil on the shaft. It spins much more easily now, and the jeep assembly itself has a lot less wiggle/side-to-side play than before.

However, a friend of mine with a JP Premium built in ~2020 tried this as well and the jeep shaft wouldn't fit in the precision flipper bushing... so it would appear Stern changed the specs on the shaft at some point?

Recently seem to be running into the ball getting stuck on the post hole in the raptor cage, requiring me to open the glass each time as it won't eject without manual intervention.

Wondering if anyone else has run into it, and if so any suggestions.

Thanks

You can reset the post to be level with the playfield from underneath. I recently had to do this on my AIQ post in front of the tower.

Good to know. Mind some quick tips on how to do that.

Sure. Loosen the jam nut on the bottom, and then adjust the rubber stopper until the top of the post is to your liking on the topside of the playfield. Tighten nut once youre happy. On my AIQ, the jam nut actually fell off and was loose in the cab.

20240728_100318 (resized).jpg

*SOLD* I have a NIB Stern Jurassic Park shooter rod for sale. If anyone wants it, shoot me a message: $170 shipped.

Moved the baby triceratops and added one non-permanent palm tree. Hardly worth posting, but felt like this location was a permanent one so wanted to share. Have a bad habit of snapping those Helipad and East Dock signs with the frequent wax jobs, so avoiding using them.

JP

This seems to be the first step of going down the path to the darkside, where the game ends up with too many palms

Just rejoined the club with a 30th a couple days ago. Got a T-Rex head on amazon for 150$ I’m messing with. Had a UV usb light laying around that I threw in there. It looks pretty cool in there I think. Probably will do some led strips in there and do a red or dark orange. Might need to put a big pinball or a goat leg or something in his mouth!

IMG_8073 (resized).jpeg

IMG_8075 (resized).jpeg

IMG_8079 (resized).jpeg

Joined the club on a Premium! Had a pro for a long time and regretted selling it. Had to have another one!

Screenshot_20240730-220648 (resized).png

A+ lineup

If anyone is selling a set of used stern JP armor and can ship, send me a PM.

Hey guys, I’m thinking of picking up a JP Pro it was manufactured in September of 2019. I heard that some of the first batches had problems with pooling around posts and the artwork being to close to the posts causing chipping is this true?! Or does anyone have any from this manufactured time and have a lot of plays with no issues with this? Thanks!

I'd seek a later build, personally. The early run JPs did have artwork closer to edges and the post by the upper right flipper did cause enough problems Stern had to make some changes to it.

Read through this search of this thread for the keyword "post" and with images checked:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park?tq=post&tu=&oi=1

Shoot that’s kind of what I thought. Ok that stinks the guy was giving me a pretty awesome deal. I’ll just be honest though and tell him. Thanks for the response I’ll seek out a newer model. One last question I assume none of the Pros come with insider connected NIB? Thanks again for taking the time.

How about you just start by looking at the game that’s offered instead of taking some rando stranger’s opinion for fact. It’s been in use for 5 years. If it was to have pf issues it’ll have it already. Sheesh.

He only has about 300 plays on it. He sent photos but it’s hard to see anything. I originally asked because I heard about some early issues with JP Pro machines but I didn’t know if it was fixable.

Not all early builds have art under posts. That’s why I said to have a look. My sept 2019 build has no art under posts but it’s not a Pro.

I have heard this reported once before, but this is very odd since John at Precision Pinball makes his machined aluminum bushing using the same shaft spec as the original stern flipper/jeep bushing. The Stern bushing for the jeep is EXACTLY the same part number ( Stern #545-5070-00 ) as they use for the flippers, so they should all be using the same shaft dimensions.

I would think that the shaft has been damaged, not changed in size in different batches.... It is possible that the reported problem machine had a *BENT* jeep shaft. Not huge bend, but enough that it is no longer straight. The shaft could slightly bend due to heavy usage and hard hits, and when installed with the precision aluminum bushing it *MIGHT* be snug, whereas the nylon bushing didn't care since there is SOOOOO much slop (clearance) in the part to begin with.

Worth considering when the jeep won't spin right for ANY reason: REBUILD the jeep with 1) John's 'flipper' bushing, 2) the metal thrust bearing mentioned above, and 3) replace the shaft available from Pinball Life. (https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-jurassic-park-truck-spinner-shaft.html)

Feel free to post some photos here of the game. Just select original size, instead of the medium resolution downscaling so we can get a good look.

Resizing

Agreed with the other poster that later 2019 builds had Stern correcting the post issue on JP, as it's there in the above linked search (hover over the number of years ago posts to see time posted). Regarding early builds in general, most have minor issues that Stern fixes once they find out what's going on and find a solution, hopefully. Sometimes it doesn't matter as much, like with Rush.

Again, personally, wouldn't want a 2019 JP when you could find one that is more current and you don't risk some of those early issues. People don't talk about pooling on Stern playfields, but some 2019 JPs had it.

Easily could have been the wrong size Precision (maybe meant for a different manufacturer)

Yes, it can be true...BUT...the art on those games definitely looks the best. The art runs up to the posts AND the colors are much more vibrant. As someone else said, if it hasn't chipped and pooled in 5 years, you might be OK...

Played a few games on my JP Prem. today and all of a sudden saw T-rex's lower jaw laying on the T-rex ramp. The owners' manual shows 3-screws holding the lower jaw in place. I couldn't find any screws laying on the pf or in the cabinet below the pf. I would imagine that these screws came loose and fell out one at a time, but there's no trace of them. Also, there are 2 wires that broke off of somewhere (a red wire & a brown wire) that are visible in the pic.

I think I remember a while back that someone mentioned that T-rex is easy to remove. I'll need to remove him to make repairs. Does anyone have any recommendations for the best way to proceed? Thanks.

IMG_5114 (resized).jpg

Find the 3 small black screws that fell out... reinstall....use a little lock tite

1) Lift playfield back using pinball jacks or a board to keep it lifted out of cabinet.
2) remove the 4 wire connectors that attached the head assembly to the controllers (Remember which goes where so you don't confuse during re-assembly)
3) remove the 4 screws that attach the head assembly bracket to the backboard.
4) You can now remove the entire head out of the machine for service. Just slide it UP and you are done.

Help Please Folks!

I noticed this weekend that the switch by the helicopter wasn’t working. We’d make the shot, but it didnt register.

I opened up the machine and tested the switch. Switch is working per my DMM. Then i noticed the in and outlane on that side were all on the same chain. Tested those switches and they worked too.

When I turned the machine back on, the switch test for that switch, the in and outlane all worked!

I played a game or two and it seemed fine, but then it stopped working.

The helicopter switch, right inlane, right outlane didn't register on switch test. All other switches worked.

Anyone have ideas on what I should do to try to resolve this?

Thanks!

It could be a cold or broken solder joint on the switch itself or up the chain to the other switches. You should probably check each switches solder and what they are connected to (node board I think).

Regarding my previous post on 3 lost screws holding T-rex's lower jaw in place, I found one screw wedged in a rollover switch slot, and I found a 2nd matching screw in my box of misc pb screws (I found a screw several months ago bouncing on the pf during a game and had no idea where it belonged so I threw it into my misc screw box thinking that I would eventually need it), and the 3rd screw is still missing, but after 3-hrs of searching for it I'm giving up - I believe it should be a #4-40 (like the other 2), probably 1/4" long, so that's what I'll use as a replacement (but it won't be black like the others and I'll use a dab of loctite on all 3).

Thanks Markharris2000 for the advice on removing T-rex, but I still need some help on where to solder in the 2-wires (one brown and the other red). I think the board shown in the pic is for the opto, and there are 2-solder connection locations, so I need to know which wire gets soldered to which connection point. The pic is looking up into the underside of T-rex's jaw with the lower jaw removed and I used a mirror, so everything appears backward. What I need to know is which color wire gets soldered to the connection point closest to the screw shown in the pic - the screw is partially blocked by the red wire.

Thanks in advance for any advice on re-soldering the wires.

IMG_5117 (resized).jpg

I just fixed this same problem yesterday. For me, one of the black wires had broken off of the upper flipper and I had to solder it back on.

ok so the upper flipper is in series with those switches? interesting!

Yes, if you follow that bundle of wires, you'll find that the black wire jumps from switch to switch and hits that upper flipper in series. The white wires with stripes (switch legs) run straight back to a harness on one of the node boards.

T-Rex Multiball!

Ball Search

Triggered ball search when taking the pic, ha

This might help. Not exact but I would wire it as shown, using the SCREW hole as the guide to wire color... (BROWN nearest the screw hole)

optowire (resized).jpg

Thanks Markharris2000. Did you find that pic in the Marco online catalog?

Does the latest Jurassic Park Premium build come with the lollipop side armor in black, like Jaws, along with the large apron decal?

Mine has the full apron artwork but stock rails….

IMG_0329 (resized).jpeg

Thank you so much!

It’d be great if Stern added them next build

I wouldn’t expect them to do this for existing games that didn’t originally come with them. That would technically make them different (i.e. more valuable) than the previous/original runs. It’s surprising that they changed the aprons for Premiums since JP 30th, as it is.

My Star Wars Premium built in March of this year didn’t come with lollipops, either.

Hi everybody,

The preorder list is now closed.
You can order now directly on my pinside store here :

https://pinside.com/pinball/shops/shop/1338-pino-pinball-mods-shop/10960-agusta-a109-helicopter-mod

Have a nice day.
Lionel.

IMG_1139 (resized).JPG

I'm selling my Pro because I now have the Home Pin model and don't have a need for two Jurassic themed games.

For sale, $150 shipped, is the official Stern Amber shooter rod from my game.

https://shop.sternpinball.com/products/jurassic-park-shooter-knob?srsltid=AfmBOoqy_XF2piegsOeZairCWaagb0DQ_84sVfkNz9ktaBcHBqLMoKJT

Just got my JP (Premium) and will be streaming it on Twitch the first time tonight. I know there is a wealth of knowledge in this group and I’d love to have you stop by, hangout, and maybe even answer a few questions. Follow to get a notification of when I go Live.

Twitch.tv/vinnyblanc

JP Screenshot (resized).jpeg

Anyone throw a pro translite in the premium? Just toying with the idea cause I don’t love the prem art. Just wondering if that throws the entire thing off lol

I put the home edition translite on the premium. I really didn't like the premium translite and I think the home edition version looks better than the pro. Works fine with the rest of the art package.

https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-jurassic-park-the-pin-translite.html

830-1039-M4 JP Home Edition (resized).jpg

Oh cool. I forgot about the home edition!

I have a home edition and a pro and a 30th anniversary translite.

Home edition is the winner in my eyes!

This is an SOS to anyone that has experienced the lower jaw of the T-Rex separating from the rest of the assembly. I have an LE that I bought new in 2019 ($9000 if you're wondering) and it has been trouble free until today. The plastic lower jaw separated from the metal lower jaw assembly. It looks like some kind of cable was holding it in place but the manual does not show any such thing nor does it show the steps needed to repair it. Before I just 'willi-nilly' it and dive into taking the game apart and, while awaiting guidance from Stern, I thought I would ask first if anyone has experienced the same problem. Suggestions please.

I'm not doing the leg work but, this has been addressed within the last few pages. I advise to keep current with threads, never can have to much information.