(Topic ID: 248582)

Jurassic Park (Stern 2019 & 30th) Owners Club. Welcome! To Jurassic park.....

By CoolCatPinball

4 years ago


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#21501 32 days ago
Quoted from briyau15:

The O and S shots are extremely difficult at first. I’m starting to get a hang of the S shot but still can’t hit a controlled O shot. Satisfying when it does happen though

I believe the appropriate reply here is - that's what she said

#21502 32 days ago
Quoted from Oneironaut:

How about the 4 shot skill shot? I broke down and cried the first time I hit it. I've only hit it twice. It has a name, something like The Super-nilly Smack My Willy Skill-Shot...or something like that.

lol Or just the MXV skill shot

#21503 32 days ago

For me, one of the most exciting shots is when you make the fast O shot to get the loop, and then hold the right flipper to get a second free loop.

#21504 32 days ago
Quoted from Npbassman:

For me, one of the most exciting shots is when you make the fast O shot to get the loop, and then hold the right flipper to get a second free loop.

I prefer doing a drop catch on the upper flipper after the O shot and sending it back up the raptor tower.

#21505 32 days ago
Quoted from Oneironaut:

How about the 4 shot skill shot? I broke down and cried the first time I hit it. I've only hit it twice. It has a name, something like The Super-nilly Smack My Willy Skill-Shot...or something like that.

There's two versions of the skill shot sequence:

4 shots: Left - Right (Super skill shot) - Tower (Double super) - O lane (Ultra super skill shot)

5 shots: Left - Right - Loop - Tower - O lane. This version with the loop in the middle is the MXV one.

#21506 32 days ago
Quoted from briyau15:

The O and S shots are extremely difficult at first. I’m starting to get a hang of the S shot but still can’t hit a controlled O shot. Satisfying when it does happen though

Right orbit is the hardest shot on the table for me followed by the helipad.

#21507 32 days ago

This game has been frustrating me for a while now. I like the design and ruleset though I wish it wasn’t so liner. I’m not very good although occasionally I get a flow going with shots. It’s frustrating enough that I’ve put it up for trade or sale and keep changing my mind as it’s also fun. The one shot that is bad design in my opinion is the left tower ramp. Not so much layout geometry but the tower ramp itself seems poorly designed and rejects 90% of decent shots.

Well it’s off the sell list for the moment. Time to get pissed off again!

#21508 32 days ago
Quoted from dmesserly:

This game has been frustrating me for a while now. I like the design and ruleset though I wish it wasn’t so liner. I’m not very good although occasionally I get a flow going with shots. It’s frustrating enough that I’ve put it up for trade or sale and keep changing my mind as it’s also fun. The one shot that is bad design in my opinion is the left tower ramp. Not so much layout geometry but the tower ramp itself seems poorly designed and rejects 90% of decent shots.
Well it’s off the sell list for the moment. Time to get pissed off again!

Play with the upper right flipper power levels. Also, make sure the flipper is positioned just far back enough the ball hits the post bumper when you don’t flip

#21509 32 days ago
Quoted from dmesserly:

This game has been frustrating me for a while now. I like the design and ruleset though I wish it wasn’t so liner. I’m not very good although occasionally I get a flow going with shots. It’s frustrating enough that I’ve put it up for trade or sale and keep changing my mind as it’s also fun. The one shot that is bad design in my opinion is the left tower ramp. Not so much layout geometry but the tower ramp itself seems poorly designed and rejects 90% of decent shots.
Well it’s off the sell list for the moment. Time to get pissed off again!

It can be a frustrating game. I’m not a great player by any means so just to have fun and explore more of the progress I will sometimes set the game to 10 balls per game instead of 3. It’s your game have fun!

#21510 32 days ago
Quoted from dmesserly:

This game has been frustrating me for a while now. I like the design and ruleset though I wish it wasn’t so liner. I’m not very good although occasionally I get a flow going with shots. It’s frustrating enough that I’ve put it up for trade or sale and keep changing my mind as it’s also fun. The one shot that is bad design in my opinion is the left tower ramp. Not so much layout geometry but the tower ramp itself seems poorly designed and rejects 90% of decent shots.
Well it’s off the sell list for the moment. Time to get pissed off again!

Hmm. I don’t find it linear. Three main pathways are T. rex modes, control modes, and paddocks. Of T. rex modes they are random order (after the first). Control modes you can choose the order. Paddocks you can choose many paths and which paddocks to visit for their perks. You can choose to focus on one main path, two, go wide and try to go down all three to try to get escape nublar. There is so many choice how to progress the difficulty is choosing a strategy and sticking with it.

#21511 32 days ago
Quoted from dmesserly:

The one shot that is bad design in my opinion is the left tower ramp. Not so much layout geometry but the tower ramp itself seems poorly designed and rejects 90% of decent shots.

The usual cause of this is the screw that holds down the entrance flap, it's protruding too high and the ball is banging into it. Take the glass off and push a ball by hand through that area, if you feel contact with the screw then it's doing that in-game. The fix is to dremel down the screw head or replace it with a lower-profile head.

#21512 31 days ago
Quoted from sllerts:

Right orbit is the hardest shot on the table for me followed by the helipad.

It's not the same for me.
Hardest Shot for me is hitting the left orbit with the upper flipper followed by the right orbit "O" and then the "C" shot.
The S is super easy for me. I even prefer to do that then a post pass.

#21513 31 days ago

It’s all how you set up your flippers to what shots will be hard or not. I’ve played around with my games quite a bit as I like changing things up. This is what makes a great pinball machine imo. However you set them up there will be at least a couple difficult shots.

#21514 31 days ago

the right helipad shot just bricks or floats around every time its like 1/20 times i can hit it lol

#21515 30 days ago

Added a little color to the mezel mods tower. Thin coat of tropical blue on the roof panels and yellow on the rails.

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#21516 28 days ago

Got to spend some serious time on JP today and I have to say we have got to figure out how to fit this in our house. We had played it several times before but I specifically wanted to pay attention the shots etc since everyone had commented on how difficult they can be. The shot I struggle with the most is the C shot to the left of the raptor pit.

Went to Past Times in Girard OH (amazing place btw) and were there for about 5 1/2 hours. Kept going to two games over and over JP Pre and a GB Pre.

I agree some shots are tight and on occasion it can be a brickfest but even for a crummy player like myself and my wife it was still great fun. The theme of course is fantastic and I thought everything as was well implemented. As has been mentioned the lack of movie assets sucks but still the game is hella enjoyable (yes I know there is the movie code version out there).

Naturally I like the LE and 30th anniversary art the best but we will have to go premium to keep the cost down. Still no clue where we can put the game but we need to figure it out. Problem is we really want GB now as well lol.

#21517 28 days ago
Quoted from GCS2000:

The shot I struggle with the most is the C shot to the left of the raptor pit.

This shot is a lot higher than you think it is. Don't aim for the C letter itself or the arrow below it, that's the wrong angle, the line formed by the inserts is not the path the ball needs to take. Aim for the entrance higher up, actually just about at the center of the post. Also aim high because you get a more controllable rebound if you miss high; if you miss low you're rebounding towards the right outlane.

#21518 28 days ago

Have had JP pro since its original release. Has never left my home. So much fun. Had a chance to upgrade to a premium but couldn’t do it. I like the speed of the pro. Maybe I’m just used to it but the dinosaur just seems like it would slow me down. Played it all this weekend - hours and hours and hours. Finally did this. But I was still 2 rescues from getting off the island. No other game keeps me coming back for more even after this many years!

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#21519 27 days ago
Quoted from pinchamp:

Maybe I’m just used to it but the dinosaur just seems like it would slow me down.

It holds the ball for a moment at the start of T-REX multiball but the other ball auto plunges immediately, so no perceived slowdown there. It only holds the ball briefly for the other T-REX modes as I recall. I'm happy I stumbled in to getting a used premium.

My buddy holds tourneys and has a pro which I play a lot and that doesn't feel like too much was ripped out, so either way it's a win-win IMHO.

#21520 27 days ago

I imagine this wire hanging under the T-REX chin is for the opto? It has been hanging loose for a month since I got the pin and hasn't affected anything. I can still lock the ball in his mouth to start multiball, etc.

Is it easy to take the cover off the T-REX to reattach it?

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#21521 27 days ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

I imagine this wire hanging under the T-REX chin is for the opto? It has been hanging loose for a month since I got the pin and hasn't affected anything. I can still lock the ball in his mouth to start multiball, etc.
Is it easy to take the cover off the T-REX to reattach it?
[quoted image]

Opto Emitter. You just need a couple zip ties to replace the ones you cut when removing this cable and board, in order to repair/replace.

I ended up removing the head plastic and jaw plastic to get better clearance and access when repairing this, so it does take a little time. Sliding the head plastic off does require squeezing the head plastic a bit to help jiggle it off.

Here are a few pictures: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/425#post-8122545

#21522 27 days ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

I imagine this wire hanging under the T-REX chin is for the opto? It has been hanging loose for a month since I got the pin and hasn't affected anything. I can still lock the ball in his mouth to start multiball, etc.
Is it easy to take the cover off the T-REX to reattach it?
[quoted image]

That's the ground wire for the mouth opto. It shouldn't be able to tell if the ball is in the mouth with that broken. You have to remove the entire head assembly to fix it.

#21523 27 days ago
Quoted from AMartin56:

That's the ground wire for the mouth opto. It shouldn't be able to tell if the ball is in the mouth with that broken. You have to remove the entire head assembly to fix it.

Actually it’s the opposite, because when it catches the ball it will still register as the ball being in its mouth. It will just always think the ball is in its mouth with that opto broken. The non-working opto reads as switch closed so it thinks there is a ball in the mouth. You can tell by seeing that the T-Rex mouth opto will always register in active switch test.

But it’s not a big deal at all. The only impact on game play is that it ends up playing as though you set the menu adjustment for “T-Rex Event Starts on Ramp Enter” to “Yes” because it will always think it caught the ball after the ramp entrance opto is triggered.

The code process for a T-Rex event on perm/le is lower the head, when the entrance opto is tripped turn on the magnet, then look to the mouth opto to see if it’s in there.

So, with the wire broken, when a T-Rex event starts you only need to hit the ramp entrance and it will start the event. That’s even if you have that menu item set to “No”, because it will always register it as a caught ball.

There’s no other impact on game play so it isn’t a big deal to play with it like that.

#21524 27 days ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

So, with the wire broken, when a T-Rex event starts you only need to hit the ramp entrance and it will start the event. That’s even if you have that menu item set to “No”, because it will always register it as a caught ball.

There’s no other impact on game play so it isn’t a big deal to play with it like that.

Yup, that's how it behaves. Thanks for all the replies!

#21525 27 days ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Actually it’s the opposite, because when it catches the ball it will still register as the ball being in its mouth. It will just always think the ball is in its mouth with that opto broken. The non-working opto reads as switch closed so it thinks there is a ball in the mouth. You can tell by seeing that the T-Rex mouth opto will always register in active switch test.
But it’s not a big deal at all. The only impact on game play is that it ends up playing as though you set the menu adjustment for “T-Rex Event Starts on Ramp Enter” to “Yes” because it will always think it caught the ball after the ramp entrance opto is triggered.
The code process for a T-Rex event on perm/le is lower the head, when the entrance opto is tripped turn on the magnet, then look to the mouth opto to see if it’s in there.
So, with the wire broken, when a T-Rex event starts you only need to hit the ramp entrance and it will start the event. That’s even if you have that menu item set to “No”, because it will always register it as a caught ball.
There’s no other impact on game play so it isn’t a big deal to play with it like that.

Yeah. You're right thanks for the correction. But I think it's worth fixing. Otherwise you might as well have bought a Pro.

#21526 27 days ago
Quoted from AMartin56:

Yeah. You're right thanks for the correction. But I think it's worth fixing. Otherwise you might as well have bought a Pro.

The T-Rex can still catch the ball, but if it doesn’t, and the ball dribbles out of its mouth, the event still gets triggered if you simply get the ball up the ramp past the opto sensors. The shot appears mostly as normal with the broken opto, and resembles nothing like a Pro.

The T-Rex, with its open jaws, will typically get hit by the ball on that shot regardless of the opto status, but sometimes the Rex doesn’t catch the ball and the T-Rex event will start anyway with the broken opto. With the sensor broken, the Prem is easier to play since the T-Rex shot is now just the ramp optos. In a way, it’s a bit more satisfying to play because you always still hit the T-Rex jaws so why shouldn’t the event get triggered

Everything in the Prem stays the same with the opto broken, but obviously it’s better to fix it and use menu settings to set things how you prefer.

#21527 27 days ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Actually it’s the opposite, because when it catches the ball it will still register as the ball being in its mouth. It will just always think the ball is in its mouth with that opto broken. The non-working opto reads as switch closed so it thinks there is a ball in the mouth. You can tell by seeing that the T-Rex mouth opto will always register in active switch test.
But it’s not a big deal at all. The only impact on game play is that it ends up playing as though you set the menu adjustment for “T-Rex Event Starts on Ramp Enter” to “Yes” because it will always think it caught the ball after the ramp entrance opto is triggered.
The code process for a T-Rex event on perm/le is lower the head, when the entrance opto is tripped turn on the magnet, then look to the mouth opto to see if it’s in there.
So, with the wire broken, when a T-Rex event starts you only need to hit the ramp entrance and it will start the event. That’s even if you have that menu item set to “No”, because it will always register it as a caught ball.
There’s no other impact on game play so it isn’t a big deal to play with it like that.

Just to follow up on this, I've noticed that the first event, T-Rex multiball, on my premium will start if I hit the ramp but the T-Rex doesn't catch the ball. Subsequent T-Rex events only start if the T-Rex catches the ball. If you hit the ramp but she doesn't catch the ball, she'll roar but keep waiting until I get it in her mouth. Is that correct behavior? I think it is.

#21528 27 days ago
Quoted from sllerts:

Just to follow up on this, I've noticed that the first event, T-Rex multiball, on my premium will start if I hit the ramp but the T-Rex doesn't catch the ball. Subsequent T-Rex events only start if the T-Rex catches the ball. If you hit the ramp but she doesn't catch the ball, she'll roar but keep waiting until I get it in her mouth. Is that correct behavior? I think it is.

Yes I think that’s correct for the 1st (MB) event.

#21529 26 days ago
Quoted from sllerts:

Just to follow up on this, I've noticed that the first event, T-Rex multiball, on my premium will start if I hit the ramp but the T-Rex doesn't catch the ball. Subsequent T-Rex events only start if the T-Rex catches the ball. If you hit the ramp but she doesn't catch the ball, she'll roar but keep waiting until I get it in her mouth. Is that correct behavior? I think it is.

Yes thats how it should work as far as I know.

#21530 26 days ago

So I followed the featured post to improve the spin of the truck/jeep after it started sticking a bit. If I get a good hit, it spins perfectly fine, but even after lubrication, with a partial hit, the ball may not come back down to the resting position for another hit unless I jostle the machine a bit. I'm going to check it again tonight, but I saw the recent posts about experimenting with replacing the ball bearings, but could the issue be the Newton ball dragging on the playfield? There doesn't seem to be a way to set the vertical position of the truck to avoid drag on the playfield unless an extra washer is added to lift it. I can't say for certain this is the issue, but I'm wondering about other's experiences. My machine is only 9 months old.

#21531 26 days ago
Quoted from sllerts:

So I followed the featured post to improve the spin of the truck/jeep after it started sticking a bit. If I get a good hit, it spins perfectly fine, but even after lubrication, with a partial hit, the ball may not come back down to the resting position for another hit unless I jostle the machine a bit. I'm going to check it again tonight, but I saw the recent posts about experimenting with replacing the ball bearings, but could the issue be the Newton ball dragging on the playfield? There doesn't seem to be a way to set the vertical position of the truck to avoid drag on the playfield unless an extra washer is added to lift it. I can't say for certain this is the issue, but I'm wondering about other's experiences. My machine is only 9 months old.

What lubrication are you using?

#21532 26 days ago
Quoted from sllerts:

So I followed the featured post to improve the spin of the truck/jeep after it started sticking a bit. If I get a good hit, it spins perfectly fine, but even after lubrication, with a partial hit, the ball may not come back down to the resting position for another hit unless I jostle the machine a bit. I'm going to check it again tonight, but I saw the recent posts about experimenting with replacing the ball bearings, but could the issue be the Newton ball dragging on the playfield? There doesn't seem to be a way to set the vertical position of the truck to avoid drag on the playfield unless an extra washer is added to lift it. I can't say for certain this is the issue, but I'm wondering about other's experiences. My machine is only 9 months old.

When I had this issue, I found it wasn’t a lubricant problem. I just needed to slightly adjust how tight the assembly was fitting together underneath the playfield. The key was to tighten the truck assembly shaft into position such that it could be raised up/down ever so slightly.

#21533 26 days ago
Quoted from kciaccio:

What lubrication are you using?

The 3-in-1 mentioned in the post.

#21534 26 days ago
Quoted from Casual:

When I had this issue, I found it wasn’t a lubricant problem. I just needed to slightly adjust how tight the assembly was fitting together underneath the playfield. The key was to tighten the truck assembly shaft into position such that it could be raised up/down ever so slightly.

Yes, that is how mine seems as well. But the set screw doesn't really affect the "height" of the rod/truck above the playfield, does it? It only holds the rod to the metal piece that breaks the optos for detection of a spin.

#21535 26 days ago
Quoted from sllerts:

The 3-in-1 mentioned in the post.

I used that at first, and like you it wasn't working right.

You have to use a silicone only lubricant.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Blaster-11-oz-Silicone-Lube/3653299

#21536 26 days ago
Quoted from kciaccio:

I used that at first, and like you it wasn't working right.
You have to use a silicone only lubricant.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Blaster-11-oz-Silicone-Lube/3653299

Sorry, I got mixed up since I was also oiling some gates and spinners with 3-in-1. Yes, I did use silicone lubricant for the truck.

#21537 26 days ago
Quoted from sllerts:

Yes, that is how mine seems as well. But the set screw doesn't really affect the "height" of the rod/truck above the playfield, does it? It only holds the rod to the metal piece that breaks the optos for detection of a spin.

Actually, the set screw CAN impact the height (well, more like the “length”) of the rod, depending on the position of the rod when you tighten the set screw!

The goal is to ensure the metal piece that breaks the opto is not touching the white plastic piece. If those parts are touching each other, then the rod doesn’t move quite as freely. I’ll include a couple pictures in this post to show the difference in positioning. There isn’t a ton of leeway, since the metal opto-breaker still needs to move freely within the opti. But there is some wiggle room.

I had the exact same problem you’re describing. I played with lubrication, washers, ball bearings, everything. But the problem was solved 100% after I adjusted that set screw to give the rod just 2mm of wiggle room. Maybe this approach won’t solve your issue, but it totally solved mine.
IMG_4123 (resized).jpegIMG_4123 (resized).jpegIMG_4124 (resized).jpegIMG_4124 (resized).jpeg

#21538 26 days ago
Quoted from sllerts:

So I followed the featured post to improve the spin of the truck/jeep after it started sticking a bit. If I get a good hit, it spins perfectly fine, but even after lubrication, with a partial hit, the ball may not come back down to the resting position for another hit unless I jostle the machine a bit. I'm going to check it again tonight, but I saw the recent posts about experimenting with replacing the ball bearings, but could the issue be the Newton ball dragging on the playfield? There doesn't seem to be a way to set the vertical position of the truck to avoid drag on the playfield unless an extra washer is added to lift it. I can't say for certain this is the issue, but I'm wondering about other's experiences. My machine is only 9 months old.

I had the same issue, I just swapped out the bearings. Super easy, cheap, and that thing moves like butter now.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09LYWXQWM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title

#21539 25 days ago

Hi, Ive have Kicker CSC44 speakers ready to install in my JPP. Is there anything I need to do besides chaning from 8ohm to 4ohm in settings?

I am very afraid of doing something wrong.

#21540 25 days ago
Quoted from LittlePinner:

Hi, Ive have Kicker CSC44 speakers ready to install in my JPP. Is there anything I need to do besides chaning from 8ohm to 4ohm in settings?
I am very afraid of doing something wrong.

Just remove the connectors from the old speakers and resolder to the new ones and screw new speakers in. That’s all. The 8ohm vs 4 ohm is just a gain (volume adjustment) with more volume applied when set to 8ohm. You can set it either way safely. I prefer to keep them 8 ohm generally. Lots of discussion about this in the DIY audio thread.

#21541 25 days ago

I can confirm the 8/4ohm setting will not harm it.

#21542 25 days ago
Quoted from jackd104:

Just remove the connectors from the old speakers and resolder to the new ones and screw new speakers in. That’s all. The 8ohm vs 4 ohm is just a gain (volume adjustment) with more volume applied when set to 8ohm. You can set it either way safely. I prefer to keep them 8 ohm generally. Lots of discussion about this in the DIY audio thread.

Thanks

#21543 25 days ago

I recently removed the T-Rex assembly after taking it apart to tuck the red/black opto wires back in, after they began sticking out the bottom of his jaw. I tucked them back in underneath his jaw (as per Stern support) and re-assembled everything.

Now after re-assembly, his jaw does not seem to open normally and does not come anywhere near close enough to the ramp as it should to eat the ball, as seen during the switch 66 test (video below). It's a bit hard to tell from the video, so I attached a picture which has a better angle of that.

It seems to open freely when I manually move it but when testing it in diag and game play, it only opens very little. From the down position in switch test 66, I can manually open the jaw enough for it to touch the ramp (wide enough to eat the ball).

I tried re-assembling it a couple of times but to no avail. At this point I'm not sure what I could've done wrong and Stern support was no help. Any advice would be much appreciated.

IMG_4053.JPEGIMG_4053.JPEG
#21544 25 days ago
Quoted from umk298:

I recently removed the T-Rex assembly after taking it apart to tuck the red/black opto wires back in, after they began sticking out the bottom of his jaw. I tucked them back in underneath his jaw (as per Stern support) and re-assembled everything.
Now after re-assembly, his jaw does not seem to open normally and does not come anywhere near close enough to the ramp as it should to eat the ball, as seen during the switch 66 test (video below). It's a bit hard to tell from the video, so I attached a picture which has a better angle of that.
It seems to open freely when I manually move it but when testing it in diag and game play, it only opens very little. From the down position in switch test 66, I can manually open the jaw enough for it to touch the ramp (wide enough to eat the ball).
I tried re-assembling it a couple of times but to no avail. At this point I'm not sure what I could've done wrong and Stern support was no help. Any advice would be much appreciated.

[quoted image]

That’s a bad case of lockjaw…

Did the three black screws go into the metal jaw cleanly? They go in from underneath.

You said the jaw moves freely by hand? I’d be checking and rechecking everywhere to see or feel that if something is out of place, including behind the T-Rex.

Make sure those wires didn’t sneak back out of place and get pinched.

#21545 25 days ago

Got some more games on JP again tonight while on vacation. This one was a Pro. I don’t like it as well as the Premium. I can’t fully explain why

As was the other night when I got extended time on the game we can say we love this game. I know a big part of it is the theme but man it just feels good to play it. It is also infuriating as all get out sometimes and I still can’t hit that C shot lol.

I need spend real time going over the rules a bit more and learning the right way to play. Not sure when we will get one, hopefully soon but I feel comfortable saying we definitely will.

#21546 25 days ago
Quoted from GCS2000:

Got some more games on JP again tonight while on vacation...
I need spend real time going over the rules a bit more and learning the right way to play. Not sure when we will get one, hopefully soon but I feel comfortable saying we definitely will.

Papa has a great tutorial on JP. Actually entertaining too. Grab a vacation beverage and enjoy!

#21547 24 days ago
Quoted from sllerts:

So I followed the featured post to improve the spin of the truck/jeep after it started sticking a bit. If I get a good hit, it spins perfectly fine, but even after lubrication, with a partial hit, the ball may not come back down to the resting position for another hit unless I jostle the machine a bit. I'm going to check it again tonight, but I saw the recent posts about experimenting with replacing the ball bearings, but could the issue be the Newton ball dragging on the playfield? There doesn't seem to be a way to set the vertical position of the truck to avoid drag on the playfield unless an extra washer is added to lift it. I can't say for certain this is the issue, but I'm wondering about other's experiences. My machine is only 9 months old.

1. There is a chance that the set screw was tightened too much at factory so as to create an indented circular crater in the flat area of the post. It will be visible. If this is the case, you won’t be able to add any wiggle height until you grind off that circular crater indent in the flat area. That will enable the set screw to tighten in a different place than the factory position.there should be 1/32 inch vertical play.

2. Clean off all lubricant. None is actually needed. Silicone might be fine, but not necessary at all if everything else is corrected.

3. Consider replacing the F7-15 thrust bearing. The nylon bearing fails faster over time than the metal version does. Amazon $5

4. If you want to rebuild the bearing mech, get Precision Pinball’s metal bushing designed for Halo flipper installs, and swap it for the nylon one. The jeep uses the same flipper bearing part number so John’s bearing should work great.

#21548 24 days ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

1. There is a chance that the set screw was tightened too much at factory so as to create an indented circular crater in the flat area of the post. It will be visible. If this is the case, you won’t be able to add any wiggle height until you grind off that circular crater indent in the flat area. That will enable the set screw to tighten in a different place than the factory position.there should be 1/32 inch vertical play.
2. Clean off all lubricant. None is actually needed. Silicone might be fine, but not necessary at all if everything else is corrected.
3. Consider replacing the F7-15 thrust bearing. The nylon bearing fails faster over time than the metal version does. Amazon $5
4. If you want to rebuild the bearing mech, get Precision Pinball’s metal bushing designed for Halo flipper installs, and swap it for the nylon one. The jeep uses the same flipper bearing part number so John’s bearing should work great.

Well, as a followup, I replaced the bearings with the F17-13M recommended previously. Even before I installed, just holding the Amazon bearings in my fingers, I could feel the balls rolling. With the Stern bearings, they were not spinning between my fingers, so the replacement was definitely needed. I did not add any lubricant.

My set screw was in extremely (scarily) tight, but using a flipper spacer, I was able to tighten it again with a small space between the bushing and the metal opto blocker, so I didn't need to do any grinding even though there does seem to be a slight indent on the rod. The opto blocker is *very* close to the bottom of the opto switches, but it does appear to clear them.

Performance-wise, the truck is now spinning quite well as promised! It still does seem to get slightly hung up when the Newton ball happens to end up perfectly vertically, but a little nudge brings it back down.

Thanks for all the help everybody!

#21549 24 days ago
Quoted from sllerts:

Well, as a followup, I replaced the bearings with the F17-13M recommended previously. Even before I installed, just holding the Amazon bearings in my fingers, I could feel the balls rolling. With the Stern bearings, they were not spinning between my fingers, so the replacement was definitely needed. I did not add any lubricant.
My set screw was in extremely (scarily) tight, but using a flipper spacer, I was able to tighten it again with a small space between the bushing and the metal opto blocker, so I didn't need to do any grinding even though there does seem to be a slight indent on the rod. The opto blocker is *very* close to the bottom of the opto switches, but it does appear to clear them.
Performance-wise, the truck is now spinning quite well as promised! It still does seem to get slightly hung up when the Newton ball happens to end up perfectly vertically, but a little nudge brings it back down.
Thanks for all the help everybody!

What is the angle of your playfield? I think most want to have theirs set to 6.5 - 7.0. If too shallow, it will also contribute to the jeep not rotating back into 'down' position.

#21550 24 days ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

What is the angle of your playfield? I think most want to have theirs set to 6.5 - 7.0. If too shallow, it will also contribute to the jeep not rotating back into 'down' position.

Well, I had it at 6.5, but the auto launcher was regularly not able to make the helipad 180 ramp, and missed shots to the helipad were going SDTM instead of hitting the rubber and bouncing to the left flipper, so I lowered the incline a bit, which has made the game much more fun to play. I can live with gently nudging the jeep to get it to come down vs. the problems I was having previously at 6.5.

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