(Topic ID: 248582)

Jurassic Park (Stern 2019 & 30th) Owners Club. Welcome! To Jurassic park.....

By CoolCatPinball

4 years ago


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#21251 42 days ago
Quoted from MiniPinHead:

Do you think the post rubber got worn down and allowed shots to hit that corner? There is a metal bracket that is on the left side. If Stern just oriented the same left-side bracket for the right side it'd fit and be nice protection for the ramp. It's a shame one isn't there. You should email Stern support and see what they say.
Maybe Cliffy could make a "missing bracket" for JP and that spot

Cliff made one for Rollercoaster Tycoon years ago that is likely very similiar to what would be needed for that spot. I will drop him a note.

#21252 42 days ago
Quoted from MiniPinHead:

Thank you! And agreed whole heartedly

The 6mm part was too small so ordering a few of the 1/4” ID bushings from here: https://www.servocity.com/1-4-id-thrust-ball-bearing-0-55-od-0-192-thickness/
Much more expensive than Amazon, but willing to try it out. Again, the previously-linked 7mm bushings do work great, but 6.4mm is probably the best for look and functionality. We’ll see!
Am going to add it to the helicopter rotor as well

To finish the bearing washer saga up, received the ServoCity 6.35mm / 1/4” Inner Dimension (ID) sets and installed them. Here are the photos:

Package from ServoCity (SC)

6.35mm6.35mm

7.0mm Amazon compared to 6.35mm from SC. The 6.35mm is actually wider on the outside, which I thought would look nicer, but not have any bearing (ha) on function.

ComparisonComparison

7.0mm gap

7.07.0

6.35mm gap

6.356.35

6.35mm installed. Still shows the cut out in the playfield, so my idea of having it covered is not met with the tighter ID bearing.

6.35mm6.35mm

Used the spacing tool this time

Spacing ToolSpacing Tool

Did the helicopter rotor, too, because every point counts

HeliHeli

Conclusion: the SC price is way too high for a little bearing set. They charge you for priority shipping for an item that could go in a mailer, too. Also, like it was systematically done, one of the two grooved washers in all four bags I ordered looked like this:

Quality…Quality…

Seems like a good business idea. Take bad stock and package it with good stock, then sell it

The price had me sold on sticking with the 7.0mm ID from Amazon after seeing the gap in the playfield doesn’t get covered up completely. It’s not like you see it anyway, but it was a nice thought.

Conclusion: get a pack of these and enjoy the increase in functionality of your Jeep and helicopter rotor. The change is VERY noticeable, and you’ll have plenty of replacements.

EDIT: the saga continues… golfergordy correctly points out there is a 15mm OD Amazon variant that also has a 7mm ID and could work. Ordered and will report back which is better, 13mm or 15mm OD

Viable options getting researched:

7mm ID x 13mm OD x 5mm thick
Bearing washer might be more centered since it’s not as wide, functions well

https://www.amazon.com/HiPicco-Bearings-F7-13M-Miniature-Direction/dp/B0BXYBHFKD

7mm ID x 15mm OD x 5mm thick
Wider grooved washer better covers gap in playfield, NOT tested yet

https://www.amazon.com/HiPicco-Bearings-F7-13M-Miniature-Direction/dp/B0BXY65ZK1

#21253 42 days ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

Cliff made one for Rollercoaster Tycoon years ago that is likely very similiar to what would be needed for that spot. I will drop him a note.

I was going to email Stern and ask if they could ask if they could make one with opposite bends

I bet you’ll have more luck

#21254 42 days ago
Quoted from MiniPinHead:

To finish the bearing washer saga up, received the ServoCity 6.35mm / 1/4” Inner Dimension (ID) sets and installed them. Here are the photos:
Package from ServoCity (SC)
[quoted image]
7.0mm Amazon compared to 6.35mm from SC. The 6.35mm is actually wider on the outside, which I thought would look nicer, but not have any bearing (ha) on function.
[quoted image]
7.0mm gap
[quoted image]
6.35mm gap
[quoted image]
6.35mm installed. Still shows the cut out in the playfield, so my idea of having it covered is not met with the tighter ID bearing.
[quoted image]
Used the spacing tool this time
[quoted image]
Did the helicopter rotor, too, because every point counts
[quoted image]
Conclusion: the SC price is way too high for a little bearing set. They charge you for priority shipping for an item that could go in a mailer, too. Also, like it was systematically done, one of the two grooved washers in all four bags I ordered looked like this:
[quoted image]
Seems like a good business idea. Take bad stock and package it with good stock, then sell it
The price had me sold on sticking with the 7.0mm ID from Amazon after seeing the gap in the playfield doesn’t get covered up completely. It’s not like you see it anyway, but it was a nice thought.
Conclusion: get a pack of these and enjoy the increase in functionality of your Jeep and helicopter rotor. The change is VERY noticeable, and you’ll have plenty of replacements.
https://www.amazon.com/HiPicco-Bearings-F7-13M-Miniature-Direction/dp/B0BXYBHFKD

Awesome review and appreciate the advice. Thank you kind sir!

#21255 41 days ago
Quoted from MiniPinHead:

To finish the bearing washer saga up, received the ServoCity 6.35mm / 1/4” Inner Dimension (ID) sets and installed them. Here are the photos:
Package from ServoCity (SC)
[quoted image]
7.0mm Amazon compared to 6.35mm from SC. The 6.35mm is actually wider on the outside, which I thought would look nicer, but not have any bearing (ha) on function.
[quoted image]
7.0mm gap
[quoted image]
6.35mm gap
[quoted image]
6.35mm installed. Still shows the cut out in the playfield, so my idea of having it covered is not met with the tighter ID bearing.
[quoted image]
Used the spacing tool this time
[quoted image]
Did the helicopter rotor, too, because every point counts
[quoted image]
Conclusion: the SC price is way too high for a little bearing set. They charge you for priority shipping for an item that could go in a mailer, too. Also, like it was systematically done, one of the two grooved washers in all four bags I ordered looked like this:
[quoted image]
Seems like a good business idea. Take bad stock and package it with good stock, then sell it
The price had me sold on sticking with the 7.0mm ID from Amazon after seeing the gap in the playfield doesn’t get covered up completely. It’s not like you see it anyway, but it was a nice thought.
Conclusion: get a pack of these and enjoy the increase in functionality of your Jeep and helicopter rotor. The change is VERY noticeable, and you’ll have plenty of replacements.
https://www.amazon.com/HiPicco-Bearings-F7-13M-Miniature-Direction/dp/B0BXYBHFKD

You mentioned that the wider OD on the 6.35mm ID thrust bearing from SC looked better than on your recommended F7-13mm bearing from Amazon. Wouldn't the F7-15mm thrust bearing from Amazon be the better choice than your recommended F7-13mm because its OD is 15mm vs 13mm ? Both of these bearings from Amazon have the same 5.0mm thickness.

#21256 41 days ago
Quoted from golfergordy:

You mentioned that the wider OD on the 6.35mm ID thrust bearing from SC looked better than on your recommended F7-13mm bearing from Amazon. Wouldn't the F7-15mm thrust bearing from Amazon be the better choice than your recommended F7-13mm because its OD is 15mm vs 13mm ? Both of these bearings from Amazon have the same 5.0mm thickness.

Great observation! Ordered the 7mm ID x 15mm OD x 5mm thick washer bearing set for testing. They might have been out of stock when I first was looking and missed it, apologies. There’s one left, but will report back on the functionality. As long as the shaft rests over the bearings it should work nicely.

Edited the above post thanks to you

Researching to see if it works well:

7mm ID x 15mm OD x 5mm thick
https://www.amazon.com/HiPicco-Bearings-F7-13M-Miniature-Direction/dp/B0BXY65ZK1

#21257 41 days ago
Quoted from MiniPinHead:

Great observation! Ordered the 7mm ID x 15mm OD x 5mm thick washer bearing set for testing. They might have been out of stock when I first was looking and missed it, apologies. There’s one left, but will report back on the functionality. As long as the shaft rests over the bearings it should work nicely.
Edited the above post thanks to you
Researching to see if it works well:
7mm ID x 15mm OD x 5mm thick
https://www.amazon.com/HiPicco-Bearings-F7-13M-Miniature-Direction/dp/B0BXY65ZK1

Thanks for your dedicated work on this subject. I'm anxiously awaiting your testing results.

#21258 41 days ago

A while back I posted on the subject of weak hits of the ball to the helipad ramp that VERY OFTEN resulted in the ball rolling back down the lane (behind the upper flipper), hugging the right stainless steel side wall, and barely grazing a rubber ring which is right below the helicopter, which directed the ball SDTM. Someone suggested that if the rubber ring stuck out a bit further, the ball would then deflect off the rubber and go to the left flipper instead of SDTM. As a simple way of accomplishing this, I placed a sleeve (a short piece of flexible tubing which fit tightly onto the post) over the metal post holding that rubber ring in place (and beneath the rubber ring) which resulted in the rubber ring sticking out a bit further into the lane so that when the weakly hit ball rolls back down the lane it now often deflects off the rubber to the left flipper. After playing the game for the past month or so with that rubber ring sticking further out (as described above), The number of deflections off of that rubber ring going SDTM has been greatly reduced, but I don't think it's possible to totally eliminate the SDTM balls in that situation. As the ball is rolling back down the lane after failing to get up the helipad ramp, its speed, location in the lane, ball spin, and maybe a few other factors that affect ball movement, all determine where the ball goes, and sometimes the ball will still go SDTM no matter where the rubber ring is located. Someone else (a month or so back) suggested tweaking the stainless steel wall on the right side of the lane so that the ball will roll right past the rubber ring w/o touching the rubber so that the ball always rolls to the right flipper - I wonder if anyone has tried this and if so, what were the results.

#21259 38 days ago

So I've had a premium for a year or so now, and the one thing that still seems to be hard to get dialed in perfectly is the helipad ramp. I saw @timlah79's key post on this, but for my game it's not just the auto plunger, but shots from the left flipper that are inconsistent. The last suspect was game incline, so I actually made it shallower (closer to 6.5 than 7), which helped a bit, but then I played another premium last night that was much steeper, and that shot was perfect every time. I've also played a few other JPs in the area, and none of them have the same problem, but this was the first time that I specifically checked the angle of the game. Here's what I've tried so far:
-side to side level is good
-incline is around 6.6
-L flipper power is 255
-New balls
-Clean PF
-Replaced the ramp flap with the Cliffy CF one

It'll also fail occasionally on the auto launch, and will fail with the plunger all the time, but that seems like it's tweakable with the shooter lane/plunger adjustments. I'm much more concerned right now with the ability to hit the shot from the flipper. Has anyone else had this same issue?

#21260 38 days ago

If i want to have a t rex hand painted for my machine, are there any people that provide that service that folks have used before?

#21261 38 days ago
Quoted from ChrisBardon:

So I've had a premium for a year or so now, and the one thing that still seems to be hard to get dialed in perfectly is the helipad ramp. I saw @timlah79's key post on this, but for my game it's not just the auto plunger, but shots from the left flipper that are inconsistent. The last suspect was game incline, so I actually made it shallower (closer to 6.5 than 7), which helped a bit, but then I played another premium last night that was much steeper, and that shot was perfect every time. I've also played a few other JPs in the area, and none of them have the same problem, but this was the first time that I specifically checked the angle of the game. Here's what I've tried so far:
-side to side level is good
-incline is around 6.6
-L flipper power is 255
-New balls
-Clean PF
-Replaced the ramp flap with the Cliffy CF one
It'll also fail occasionally on the auto launch, and will fail with the plunger all the time, but that seems like it's tweakable with the shooter lane/plunger adjustments. I'm much more concerned right now with the ability to hit the shot from the flipper. Has anyone else had this same issue?

I also had the auto shooter not always shoot the ball all the way up the helipad ramp. I tried a few things that didn't work, and then I used some pliers to squeeze together (by only a small bit) the 2-prongs that contact the ball when the auto shooter shoots. This causes the prongs to contact the ball a bit sooner and the prongs also now contact the ball closer to the center of the ball - both of these improvements result in more energy transferred to the ball which speeds the ball up. I haven't had an auto plunged ball fail to make it up the helipad ramp ever since (for several months now). First, though, make sure that the auto plunger's 2-prongs are lined up with the ball so that they both contact the ball at the same time.
As far as not making it up the helipad ramp when you think it was a good shot from the left flipper, I haven't looked into that because I always assume that I just made an imperfect shot if the ball doesn't make it up that ramp. Usually it doesn't seem like it was a good shot when not making the ramp, but when the shot feels good, the results are good too. I would check to see if the ball contacts a ramp flap screw.
As far as the manual plunge always failing to reach the helipad ramp, check to see if the manual plunger tip is right in line with the center of the ball. I had to adjust the alignment of the manual plunger on my game due to poor manual plunges, and now it works fine every time.

#21262 38 days ago
Quoted from TheBananaPeel69:

If i want to have a t rex hand painted for my machine, are there any people that provide that service that folks have used before?

Modfather. Haven't yet pulled the trigger on my JP but, just got it 3 days ago. And I will be sending them a few items to spruce up.

https://modfatherpinball.com/products/jurassic-park-t-rex-makeover-stern

They painted my MMrLE castle. Excellent job. Photo below for reference.

Cheers,

Big Willy

20240416_213856 (resized).jpg20240416_213856 (resized).jpg

#21263 37 days ago
Quoted from golfergordy:

A while back I posted on the subject of weak hits of the ball to the helipad ramp that VERY OFTEN resulted in the ball rolling back down the lane (behind the upper flipper), hugging the right stainless steel side wall, and barely grazing a rubber ring which is right below the helicopter, which directed the ball SDTM. Someone suggested that if the rubber ring stuck out a bit further, the ball would then deflect off the rubber and go to the left flipper instead of SDTM. As a simple way of accomplishing this, I placed a sleeve (a short piece of flexible tubing which fit tightly onto the post) over the metal post holding that rubber ring in place (and beneath the rubber ring) which resulted in the rubber ring sticking out a bit further into the lane so that when the weakly hit ball rolls back down the lane it now often deflects off the rubber to the left flipper. After playing the game for the past month or so with that rubber ring sticking further out (as described above), The number of deflections off of that rubber ring going SDTM has been greatly reduced, but I don't think it's possible to totally eliminate the SDTM balls in that situation. As the ball is rolling back down the lane after failing to get up the helipad ramp, its speed, location in the lane, ball spin, and maybe a few other factors that affect ball movement, all determine where the ball goes, and sometimes the ball will still go SDTM no matter where the rubber ring is located. Someone else (a month or so back) suggested tweaking the stainless steel wall on the right side of the lane so that the ball will roll right past the rubber ring w/o touching the rubber so that the ball always rolls to the right flipper - I wonder if anyone has tried this and if so, what were the results.

That's a lot of effort and thought to try to avoid nudging the machine.

#21264 37 days ago
Quoted from stubborngamer:

That's a lot of effort and thought to try to avoid nudging the machine.

Seems mostly newer pinheads can’t accept that nudging is a part of the game. They feel it’s cheating somehow. None are smart enough to look into pinball and its history I guess. There was a time when nudging was the ONLY way to interact. Yay for flippers however nudging is still a BIG part of playing. Learn it.

Hell if my wife can learn it anyone can! BTW she was also one of those that thought it was cheating. We’re not talking about sliding games 2 feet sideways here. Just giving the right amount of bump at the right time to avoid getting in a situation that could/would lead to a drain.

#21265 37 days ago
Quoted from TheBananaPeel69:

If i want to have a t rex hand painted for my machine, are there any people that provide that service that folks have used before?

Hey Banana i just did a FB market place search for a miniature painter. Found one and had mine done looks great.

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#21266 37 days ago
Quoted from stubborngamer:

That's a lot of effort and thought to try to avoid nudging the machine.

It really wasn't much effort to get the rubber ring below the helicopter plastic to stick further out into the pf to deflect the ball to a greater degree resulting in fewer SDTM drains for balls rolling back down the lane after failing to make it up the helipad ramp.

Some players seem to think that nudging is a panacea for every difficult game situation (maybe it is??). In the situation that is being discussed here, it's difficult to predict if the ball will be headed SDTM until AFTER it hits the rubber ring below the helicopter plastic. Nudging prior to the ball hitting the rubber ring might in fact cause the ball to go SDTM. I'll admit to not being a prolific nudger, but I've set the tilt plumbob to a very generous position, and have set the game for 2-warnings before a ball tilt results. I am curious to know if you (stubborngamer) have ever experienced a SDTM drain for a ball not making it up the helipad ramp, and therefore rolling back down the lane and draining, even when nudging?

#21267 37 days ago
Quoted from golfergordy:

It really wasn't much effort to get the rubber ring below the helicopter plastic to stick further out into the pf to deflect the ball to a greater degree resulting in fewer SDTM drains for balls rolling back down the lane after failing to make it up the helipad ramp.
Some players seem to think that nudging is a panacea for every difficult game situation (maybe it is??). In the situation that is being discussed here, it's difficult to predict if the ball will be headed SDTM until AFTER it hits the rubber ring below the helicopter plastic. Nudging prior to the ball hitting the rubber ring might in fact cause the ball to go SDTM. I'll admit to not being a prolific nudger, but I've set the tilt plumbob to a very generous position, and have set the game for 2-warnings before a ball tilt results. I am curious to know if you (stubborngamer) have ever experienced a SDTM drain for a ball not making it up the helipad ramp, and therefore rolling back down the lane and draining, even when nudging?

I feel you are falling into the trap of, because that ramp reject usually doesn't lead to sdtm, that you shouldn't nudge. But really, any chance of losing your ball is a reason to nudge. In that case it's fairly straight forward, you nudge at that bottom portion that leads to a pop up so it's more likely to do what you expect it to, end up on the left flipper side. Forgetting to do that can lead to sdtm, just remembering to do that I don't think it's ever a issue.

The reject from the lane behind the T-Rex ramp(from a upper flipper shot) is more in the, I'm rattling the machine like crazy with no real thought behind it other than I got to shake the machine in that moment.

Then there are those moments that are usually safe, but then the ball bounces a bit too much and alarm bells start to ring in your head. Some things are just instinctual.

#21268 37 days ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

Seems mostly newer pinheads can’t accept that nudging is a part of the game. They feel it’s cheating somehow. None are smart enough to look into pinball and its history I guess. There was a time when nudging was the ONLY way to interact. Yay for flippers however nudging is still a BIG part of playing. Learn it.
Hell if my wife can learn it anyone can! BTW she was also one of those that thought it was cheating. We’re not talking about sliding games 2 feet sideways here. Just giving the right amount of bump at the right time to avoid getting in a situation that could/would lead to a drain.

https://www.youtube.com/live/zd_1rQFTWKM?si=plD8IhS1i9nlEP6N

#21269 36 days ago

This insinuating that I'm not a nudger, or maybe that I should nudge more stems from my trying to fix a situation on the pf which is causing drains, and stubborngamer said I should just nudge instead of making a fix on the pf. Apparently the thought is that I'm the only person who plays this game. Well, I'm not. Several people play - adults, young adults, teenagers, and kids down to 2 granddaughters (ages 5 & 7), and I prefer not to mention nudging to the youngsters until they get older. I would, however, like to see the youngsters get more enjoyment from this game by reducing the frustration level a small bit. I'm pretty sure that some of my other players don't nudge either, but I usually don't pay that much attention how other people play. There's one adult person who has been to my house playing pinball 4-times now, and only this last time discovered that the game has a 3rd flipper. 3 of my 4 pb games have 3-flippers, and this person was shocked when I pointed them all out. As you can see, making the games more player friendly is one of my objectives, since most of them need all the help they can get. I've heard this comment many times on the forums: It's your game, so set it up any way you want.

#21270 36 days ago
Quoted from ChrisBardon:

It'll also fail occasionally on the auto launch, and will fail with the plunger all the time, but that seems like it's tweakable with the shooter lane/plunger adjustments.

These adjustments are worth making, IMO.

The first, most important thing to check is if you have playfield cabinet aligners in your cab. If you don't, you really need to do this step first because without them, your playfield will slide left to right in the cabinet, making any plunger alignment adjustments you make useless...because the playfield won't always be in the same place.
Instructions here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-godzilla-official-owners-club/page/285#post-7098733

Then, you can proceed with adjusting the manual plunger shooter plate.

You should also check which colored spring you have in your plunger. The manual calls for orange but many games came with green.
https://www.pinballlife.com/ball-shooter-plunger-inner-spring-orange.html

There's a chance just swapping the spring will fix your issues, but if you don't do the other steps first, you may get plunges that rattle down the shooter lane.

Quoted from ChrisBardon:

the one thing that still seems to be hard to get dialed in perfectly is the helipad ramp...shots from the left flipper that are inconsistent. Has anyone else had this same issue?

I had the issue and have improved it a bit.
- Carbon fiber cliffy ramp flap (which you have)
- It may help to adjust the upper flipper "in" toward the middle of the playfield. This widens the helipad shot a bit
- Experiment with different left flipper powers. Lowering the flipper power may be a little bit better, but you still want to be able to hit the Pteranodon ramp reliably. Or, if you're low already, try increasing it.

#21271 36 days ago
Quoted from scootss:

Experiment with different left flipper powers. Lowering the flipper power may be a little bit better, but you still want to be able to hit the Pteranodon ramp reliably. Or, if you're low already, try increasing it.

Thanks for the suggestions-I saw some discussion around this around the auto launch, but for the left flipper, what do most people have that set at? Mine's at 255 (which I think is the default), but I can try lowering it and seeing what happens.

#21272 36 days ago
Quoted from ChrisBardon:

Thanks for the suggestions-I saw some discussion around this around the auto launch, but for the left flipper, what do most people have that set at? Mine's at 255 (which I think is the default), but I can try lowering it and seeing what happens.

I believe I have mine set at 255 as well, but the "best" flipper power from game to game can vary due to playfield angle and other small factors.

Another thing to check could be your coil stop on that flipper. Make sure it is intact and not caved in...

#21273 36 days ago
Quoted from golfergordy:

This insinuating that I'm not a nudger, or maybe that I should nudge more stems from my trying to fix a situation on the pf which is causing drains, and stubborngamer said I should just nudge instead of making a fix on the pf. Apparently the thought is that I'm the only person who plays this game. Well, I'm not. Several people play - adults, young adults, teenagers, and kids down to 2 granddaughters (ages 5 & 7), and I prefer not to mention nudging to the youngsters until they get older. I would, however, like to see the youngsters get more enjoyment from this game by reducing the frustration level a small bit. I'm pretty sure that some of my other players don't nudge either, but I usually don't pay that much attention how other people play. There's one adult person who has been to my house playing pinball 4-times now, and only this last time discovered that the game has a 3rd flipper. 3 of my 4 pb games have 3-flippers, and this person was shocked when I pointed them all out. As you can see, making the games more player friendly is one of my objectives, since most of them need all the help they can get. I've heard this comment many times on the forums: It's your game, so set it up any way you want.

I feel like my wife, and 6 year old play as well as they can, I never thought the need to make it easier for them thinking that it's the only way they can enjoy it. The fact that my 6 year old can start multiball is amazing to me. Generally if we are playing at the same time we are doing co-op. I mean a younger person will usually have far larger issues playing than simply the lack of nudging. I mean I don't care what you do, but Jurassic Park is definitely a game that you can only do well with if you nudge it. I can think of plenty of games that a beginner can have long ball times without any tweaking. Though they might still have short ball times anyways.

#21274 36 days ago
Quoted from scootss:

These adjustments are worth making, IMO.
The first, most important thing to check is if you have playfield cabinet aligners in your cab. If you don't, you really need to do this step first because without them, your playfield will slide left to right in the cabinet, making any plunger alignment adjustments you make useless...because the playfield won't always be in the same place.
Instructions here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-godzilla-official-owners-club/page/285#post-7098733
Then, you can proceed with adjusting the manual plunger shooter plate.
You should also check which colored spring you have in your plunger. The manual calls for orange but many games came with green.
https://www.pinballlife.com/ball-shooter-plunger-inner-spring-orange.html
There's a chance just swapping the spring will fix your issues, but if you don't do the other steps first, you may get plunges that rattle down the shooter lane.

I had the issue and have improved it a bit.
- Carbon fiber cliffy ramp flap (which you have)
- It may help to adjust the upper flipper "in" toward the middle of the playfield. This widens the helipad shot a bit
- Experiment with different left flipper powers. Lowering the flipper power may be a little bit better, but you still want to be able to hit the Pteranodon ramp reliably. Or, if you're low already, try increasing it.

I had found and followed this video (

) with some success. It's not too hard to put the little nylon washer under the shooter lane metal. It seemed to work better at first, but I still feel like I get a lot of auto-launches that don't make it through the 180. Manual plunges, though, seem to almost always make it.

#21275 36 days ago

“God creates dinosaurs. God destroys dinosaurs. God creates man. Man destroys God.”

I have officially joined the club!! She’s a beauty! #7 in the home when I said only 2 lol

IMG_4992 (resized).jpegIMG_4992 (resized).jpeg
#21276 36 days ago
Quoted from JorgesArcade:

“God creates dinosaurs. God destroys dinosaurs. God creates man. Man destroys God.”
I have officially joined the club!! She’s a beauty! #7 in the home when I said only 2 lol
[quoted image]

4 are in my house when I originally (in 2020 when I started this hobby) said 4 is max. I'm sticking to it. One of my sons keeps bugging me for another, but so far I'm ignoring him.

#21277 36 days ago
Quoted from stubborngamer:

I feel like my wife, and 6 year old play as well as they can, I never thought the need to make it easier for them thinking that it's the only way they can enjoy it. The fact that my 6 year old can start multiball is amazing to me. Generally if we are playing at the same time we are doing co-op. I mean a younger person will usually have far larger issues playing than simply the lack of nudging. I mean I don't care what you do, but Jurassic Park is definitely a game that you can only do well with if you nudge it. I can think of plenty of games that a beginner can have long ball times without any tweaking. Though they might still have short ball times anyways.

I'm just curious, stubborngamer, have you moved the side outlane posts in your JP game to reduce the entrance opening into the outlane? This should obviously reduce the number of outlane drains, but I still see a ton of outlane drains when I play. I even replaced these posts with fatter posts and larger rubbers to further reduce the outlane entrance opening to benefit the player. JP, however, is still the toughest game I've ever seen.

#21278 36 days ago
Quoted from golfergordy:

I'm just curious, stubborngamer, have you moved the side outlane posts in your JP game to reduce the entrance opening into the outlane? This should obviously reduce the number of outlane drains, but I still see a ton of outlane drains when I play. I even replaced these posts with fatter posts and larger rubbers to further reduce the outlane entrance opening to benefit the player. JP, however, is still the toughest game I've ever seen.

No, everything is default. The only change I made was the T-Rex ramp fix that was leading to ramp shots not registering. I don't know how you stop a ball arching into an outlane, the only thing you can do is nudge the machine at the point it bounced from.

#21279 36 days ago
Quoted from sllerts:

I had found and followed this video ( ) with some success. It's not too hard to put the little nylon washer under the shooter lane metal. It seemed to work better at first, but I still feel like I get a lot of auto-launches that don't make it through the 180. Manual plunges, though, seem to almost always make it.

I will go on the record and say I did the same and experienced similar recently. It took some fine-tuning:
On the auto shooter, the ball needs to be precisely centered between the two metal points of contact. And since the ball cannot be moved, it's the auto shooter that requires adjusting/alignment. I added an additional plastic washer to the left side. Do not be too concerned about the left side of the guide rail protruding up and making contact with the ball at the leading edge, the ball's contact points are middle horizontal and vertical. I'm now seeing 99% ball launches irrespective of manual or Auto plunge.

#21280 36 days ago
Quoted from golfergordy:

4 are in my house when I originally (in 2020 when I started this hobby) said 4 is max. I'm sticking to it. One of my sons keeps bugging me for another, but so far I'm ignoring him.

Well, I started hobby this past October. So, saying I dove in headfirst is an understatement.

#21281 36 days ago
Quoted from JorgesArcade:

Well, I started hobby this past October. So, saying I dove in headfirst is an understatement.

I guess you've got to start somewhere. I was chicken to buy a new machine, until I had some experience with older ones. 1st - Mata Hari, then The Getaway, then Godzilla, then in '23, Jurassic Park. A pretty nice assortment of games (if I must say so myself) in a four game lineup.

#21282 36 days ago
Quoted from golfergordy:

I guess you've got to start somewhere. I was chicken to buy a new machine, until I had some experience with older ones. 1st - Mata Hari, then The Getaway, then Godzilla, then in '23, Jurassic Park. A pretty nice assortment of games (if I must say so myself) in a four game lineup.

I got JP Premium as my first in September, TMNT Premium in October, TSPP in February and STTNG in March. This is a really bad hobby for me!

#21283 36 days ago
Quoted from sllerts:

I got JP Premium as my first in September, TMNT Premium in October, TSPP in February and STTNG in March. This is a really bad hobby for me!

Sounds like your hobby is just buying & (I assume) playing. I hope you have some skills for troubleshooting & repairing, which is the other side of the coin with this hobby.

#21284 35 days ago
Quoted from golfergordy:

Sounds like your hobby is just buying & (I assume) playing. I hope you have some skills for troubleshooting & repairing, which is the other side of the coin with this hobby.

Quoted from golfergordy:

I guess you've got to start somewhere. I was chicken to buy a new machine, until I had some experience with older ones. 1st - Mata Hari, then The Getaway, then Godzilla, then in '23, Jurassic Park. A pretty nice assortment of games (if I must say so myself) in a four game lineup.

I started with CCr awaiting my TMNT. Then Aerosmith briefly before Queen, then Godfather and recently added IM and SW. JP yesterday. I did get a TFTC last month and it's a restore project. I am learning a lot of troubleshooting and rebuilding. Trying to learn skills for repairs.

#21285 35 days ago
Quoted from sllerts:

I got JP Premium as my first in September, TMNT Premium in October, TSPP in February and STTNG in March. This is a really bad hobby for me!

I got back in the hobby in 2019 after a 10-year post divorce break. Was waiting for my first NIB (MMrRE) but it kept getting delayed so I went and bought some rando NIB while I waited lol.. Turned out to be JPLE of which I knew nothing. Took a chance. I think I did well lol. It's still in the lineup. Bought 8 more NIB after JP but only 4 stayed. MMrRE, CCrLE, STpro, and SThLE are gone.

My self-imposed game limit is 6 - I don't want games all over the house, which isn't all that big. We are at 7 now with #8 (Looney Tunes) to follow shortly. I also have EM pins and a SS shuffle bowler in storage that I put in the garage for the summer - yes we have a summer game room lol. I think this fall the goal will be to sell off all the storage games as well as 1 or 2 from the main lineup. JP will maybe finally leave at that point

#21286 35 days ago
Quoted from golfergordy:

Sounds like your hobby is just buying & (I assume) playing. I hope you have some skills for troubleshooting & repairing, which is the other side of the coin with this hobby.

Absolutely. I'm a computer/electrical engineer. I love tinkering with them and modding.

#21287 35 days ago
Quoted from sllerts:

Absolutely. I'm a computer/electrical engineer. I love tinkering with them and modding.

Civil engineer here (retired), but my dad was an electrical technician, and taught me a few basic things.

#21288 35 days ago

I recently jumped in feet-first and bought a NIB JP Premium as my first pinball machine. I'm mostly a video gamer, but I've had a love for pinball since I was kid and knew my dream man cave would have 2 arcade cabinets and a pinball machine.

I also knew for a long time I would be getting a Jurassic Park themed cab. I only knew about the Data East machine from '93 and hadn't even seriously planned anything until I got an unexpected promotion and bonus this year. Once I learned that there was another JP cab that was still being made and I could buy new with a warranty, and that it seemed to be considered one of the best machines out there to boot, I took the plunge.

I've had it for just over 2 weeks and still have to pinch myself every time I see it in my house. I've already gone crazy with mods and have more planned for the future, but I'm forcing myself to spread them out so there's things to look forward to.

PXL_20240419_132932956.jpgPXL_20240419_132932956.jpgPXL_20240419_132948477.jpgPXL_20240419_132948477.jpgPXL_20240419_132957235.jpgPXL_20240419_132957235.jpgPXL_20240419_220243332.jpgPXL_20240419_220243332.jpg
#21289 35 days ago
Quoted from TORQUENDB:

I recently jumped in feet-first and bought a NIB JP Premium as my first pinball machine. I'm mostly a video gamer, but I've had a love for pinball since I was kid and knew my dream man cave would have 2 arcade cabinets and a pinball machine.
I also knew for a long time I would be getting a Jurassic Park themed cab. I only knew about the Data East machine from '93 and hadn't even seriously planned anything until I got an unexpected promotion and bonus this year. Once I learned that there was another JP cab that was still being made and I could buy new with a warranty, and that it seemed to be considered one of the best machines out there to boot, I took the plunge.
I've had it for just over 2 weeks and still have to pinch myself every time I see it in my house. I've already gone crazy with mods and have more planned for the future, but I'm forcing myself to spread them out so there's things to look forward to.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Not sure there are any more mods for you to space out

I think we found Mr_Tantrum ‘s alt account

But seriously, love the Pro translite on the Premium game. I want to do that and your photos are encouraging.

#21290 35 days ago
Quoted from MiniPinHead:

Not sure there are any more mods for you to space out
I think we found Mr_Tantrum ‘s alt account
But seriously, love the Pro translite on the Premium game. I want to do that and your photos are encouraging.

Yeah I felt the stock Premium had too much raptor theming going on, plus with the topper there would be another JP logo right above the translite.

I have a tendency to go full-throttle or not at all lol. I've never been very good at doing things in moderation. I tend to get very intensely into a hobby/interest for a few week or months then switch to something else just as intensely, eventually I come back around to the original obsession and the cycle continues.

#21291 35 days ago
Quoted from TORQUENDB:

I recently jumped in feet-first and bought a NIB JP Premium as my first pinball machine. I'm mostly a video gamer, but I've had a love for pinball since I was kid and knew my dream man cave would have 2 arcade cabinets and a pinball machine.
I also knew for a long time I would be getting a Jurassic Park themed cab. I only knew about the Data East machine from '93 and hadn't even seriously planned anything until I got an unexpected promotion and bonus this year. Once I learned that there was another JP cab that was still being made and I could buy new with a warranty, and that it seemed to be considered one of the best machines out there to boot, I took the plunge.
I've had it for just over 2 weeks and still have to pinch myself every time I see it in my house. I've already gone crazy with mods and have more planned for the future, but I'm forcing myself to spread them out so there's things to look forward to.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Get some anti-reflective glass for that baby. (Goes by many brands, invisiglass, voodoo, etc)

#21292 35 days ago
Quoted from jackd104:

Get some anti-reflective glass for that baby. (Goes by many brands, invisiglass, voodoo, etc)

This.
There's no better value proposition ~$250 than HD/antireflective glass and the positive impact it will have on your gameplay experience.
Love the mods so, give them more visibility!

#21293 35 days ago
Quoted from TORQUENDB:

I recently jumped in feet-first and bought a NIB JP Premium as my first pinball machine. I'm mostly a video gamer, but I've had a love for pinball since I was kid and knew my dream man cave would have 2 arcade cabinets and a pinball machine.
I also knew for a long time I would be getting a Jurassic Park themed cab. I only knew about the Data East machine from '93 and hadn't even seriously planned anything until I got an unexpected promotion and bonus this year. Once I learned that there was another JP cab that was still being made and I could buy new with a warranty, and that it seemed to be considered one of the best machines out there to boot, I took the plunge.
I've had it for just over 2 weeks and still have to pinch myself every time I see it in my house. I've already gone crazy with mods and have more planned for the future, but I'm forcing myself to spread them out so there's things to look forward to.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Congrats on your JP pin. As others have mentioned, the HD/antireflective glass is well worth it. I put Invisiglass in mine, but there are other brands too. I also just got a NIB Premium and I am almost finished installing my mods. Pin mods are addictive!

#21294 35 days ago

Our behind the raptor ball stuck blocking plastic also might be on the list.

#21295 35 days ago
Quoted from WB2000:

Congrats on your JP pin. As others have mentioned, the HD/antireflective glass is well worth it. I put Invisiglass in mine, but there are other brands too. I also just got a NIB Premium and I am almost finished installing my mods. Pin mods are addictive!

Keep it Stern

https://shop.sternpinball.com/products/high-definition-playfield-glass

#21296 34 days ago
Quoted from jackd104:

Get some anti-reflective glass for that baby. (Goes by many brands, invisiglass, voodoo, etc)

I have mostly been sticking to OEM Stern parts for upgrades (LE speakers, shaker motor, side armor, topper) where I can. Screw their balls though, I replaced them with some PBLs the other day and everything feels right again. The ones it came with had already gotten dull, hazy, and started getting what looked like little nicks after just 2 weeks, and the game was feeling slow and off compared to when I first set it up, even after a thorough cleaning of the playfield once all my mods were installed. Probably around 750 balls played in that time, I've got everything set to easy mode while I'm learning the game so 10 balls a game, 50% shoot again chance, means long games and quite a lot of multiballs.

I'm probably going to wait a few months for the coffers to refill a bit and order some PDI glass. I may get other tables in the future (I definitely want a Data East JP at some point, gotta have both machines for my favorite movie of all time), but I know I'm never getting rid of this one.

#21297 34 days ago
Quoted from TORQUENDB:

I have mostly been sticking to OEM Stern parts for upgrades (LE speakers, shaker motor, side armor, topper) where I can. Screw their balls though, I replaced them with some PBLs the other day and everything feels right again. The ones it came with had already gotten dull, hazy, and started getting what looked like little nicks after just 2 weeks, and the game was feeling slow and off compared to when I first set it up, even after a thorough cleaning of the playfield once all my mods were installed. Probably around 750 balls played in that time, I've got everything set to easy mode while I'm learning the game so 10 balls a game, 50% shoot again chance, means long games and quite a lot of multiballs.
I'm probably going to wait a few months for the coffers to refill a bit and order some PDI glass. I may get other tables in the future (I definitely want a Data East JP at some point, gotta have both machines for my favorite movie of all time), but I know I'm never getting rid of this one.

The HD glass will change the whole experience... dramatically. You'll be amazed!

#21298 34 days ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

The HD glass will change the whole experience... dramatically. You'll be amazed!

I have it on my Munsters LE.... really niice! I wonder what shipping cost is.....

#21299 34 days ago
Quoted from JMCFAN:

I have it on my Munsters LE.... really niice! I wonder what shipping cost is.....

I bought two from Cointaker and they charged $39 shipping for two, (three years ago)

#21300 32 days ago

Does the TRex motor sound like it grinds on anyone else’s machines with glass off?

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