(Topic ID: 248582)

Jurassic Park (Stern 2019 & 30th) Owners Club. Welcome! To Jurassic park.....

By CoolCatPinball

4 years ago


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#20401 3 months ago

I don't have any performance tips,but just remember,the truck changes your path.

#20402 3 months ago
Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:

Joined the club Pro JP
Anything I should do immediately to ensure optimal performance
Stoked !
[quoted image]

Just push play and spray !

#20403 89 days ago

Hey gang, I have the opportunity to buy a Stern JP Pro. Are there any NIB issues that I should be aware of? Thanks!

#20404 89 days ago
Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:

Joined the club Pro JP
Anything I should do immediately to ensure optimal performance
Stoked !

Quoted from pinbuoy:

Hey gang, I have the opportunity to buy a Stern JP Pro. Are there any NIB issues that I should be aware of? Thanks!

My NIB from this year had a long list of issues:

- On the tower ramp, the screw holding in the ramp flap was protruding into the ball path so the ball would hit it and lose power trying to get up the ramp. I took out the screw and grinded down the edge of the head with a dremel. (There are lots of posts on this topic a few pages ago.)

- Flipper alignment was really low. Elwin goes low on purpose to hit the outside shots, but these were incredibly low, barely able to catch a ball, I had to adjust them.

- The left inlane ball guide was out of position, aligned about 2 mm above the surface of the flipper rubber, enough to cause a hop from a rolling ball, I had to adjust that.

- The plunger spring wasn't strong enough to make it up the heli ramp, I replaced that.

- The up-post behind the spinner was sticking up too far when at rest, and the one in the inlane was too low, I adjusted both.

- The T-rex ramp flap was too creased and springy and causing a lot of airballs, I flattened that out and put a bit of cardboard under it to not be springy.

- The left ramp exit opto would fail to register a fast moving ball, the fix is to put tape blocking the lower third of the opto holes.

- The back raptor pen target was positioned too far left and would get wedged and stuck behind the post to its left so it wouldn't register (switch stuck closed), I had to reposition the target.

- The tilt ring was assembled lopsided, so the pendulum was almost contacting the ring even without the tilt bob at all, I had to bend the ring outwards to center that.

At least I haven't had any problems with the truck, though there are some reports of that too.

#20405 89 days ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

The 3 inserts at the top of the map will tell you what’s not done yet. Visitor Center, Museum Mayhem, and Secure Control Room. If they aren’t lit, you need to do those modes.
Museum Mayhem is the 5th TREX mode.
Secure Control room is the 4th control room mode.
Visitor Center is obviously the last “paddock”.
In addition, if you successfully complete these, the insert will flash instead of being on solid. If you can get all 3 flashing, this opens up the real final mode that comes after escape nublar, which is “When Dinosaurs Ruled the Earth”.

This was so succinctly put. Honorary key post!

#20406 89 days ago
Quoted from vikingerik:

My NIB from this year had a long list of issues:
- On the tower ramp, the screw holding in the ramp flap was protruding into the ball path so the ball would hit it and lose power trying to get up the ramp. I took out the screw and grinded down the edge of the head with a dremel. (There are lots of posts on this topic a few pages ago.)
- Flipper alignment was really low. Elwin goes low on purpose to hit the outside shots, but these were incredibly low, barely able to catch a ball, I had to adjust them.
- The left inlane ball guide was out of position, aligned about 2 mm above the surface of the flipper rubber, enough to cause a hop from a rolling ball, I had to adjust that.
- The plunger spring wasn't strong enough to make it up the heli ramp, I replaced that.
- The up-post behind the spinner was sticking up too far when at rest, and the one in the inlane was too low, I adjusted both.
- The T-rex ramp flap was too creased and springy and causing a lot of airballs, I flattened that out and put a bit of cardboard under it to not be springy.
- The left ramp exit opto would fail to register a fast moving ball, the fix is to put tape blocking the lower third of the opto holes.
- The back raptor pen target was positioned too far left and would get wedged and stuck behind the post to its left so it wouldn't register (switch stuck closed), I had to reposition the target.
- The tilt ring was assembled lopsided, so the pendulum was almost contacting the ring even without the tilt bob at all, I had to bend the ring outwards to center that.
At least I haven't had any problems with the truck, though there are some reports of that too.

holy crap, that's enough to scare someone off....

#20407 89 days ago

List of issues on my NIB premium from a few years ago …

- none

#20408 89 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

List of issues on my NIB premium from a few years ago …
- none

Show off

It's easy enough to get to this point when the typical JP issues are identified, but taking the time to comb through your game can be tough, until the issues identify themselves and start bothering you. No one wants to believe their brand new game has issues from the factory, but 2023 JP runs seem to have plenty.

#20409 89 days ago
Quoted from MiniPinHead:

Show off
It's easy enough to get to this point when the typical JP issues are identified, but taking the time to comb through your game can be tough, until the issues identify themselves and start bothering you. No one wants to believe their brand new game has issues from the factory, but 2023 JP runs seem to have plenty.

I know that some have had issues, and not discounting those experiences whatsoever. However, sometimes the impression is made (intentional or not) that ever single game coming off the line has multiple issues. I honestly think it is a small minority of games with issues, and of course these are the ones that people are most vocal about. Absolutely nothing wrong with sharing these cases, as we're all vocal about negative experiences. For some reason, I'm thinking the Stern plant doesn't exactly follow six sigma accredited manufacturing processes.

#20410 89 days ago
Quoted from vikingerik:

My NIB from this year had a long list of issues:
- On the tower ramp, the screw holding in the ramp flap was protruding into the ball path so the ball would hit it and lose power trying to get up the ramp. I took out the screw and grinded down the edge of the head with a dremel. (There are lots of posts on this topic a few pages ago.)
- Flipper alignment was really low. Elwin goes low on purpose to hit the outside shots, but these were incredibly low, barely able to catch a ball, I had to adjust them.
- The left inlane ball guide was out of position, aligned about 2 mm above the surface of the flipper rubber, enough to cause a hop from a rolling ball, I had to adjust that.
- The plunger spring wasn't strong enough to make it up the heli ramp, I replaced that.
- The up-post behind the spinner was sticking up too far when at rest, and the one in the inlane was too low, I adjusted both.
- The T-rex ramp flap was too creased and springy and causing a lot of airballs, I flattened that out and put a bit of cardboard under it to not be springy.
- The left ramp exit opto would fail to register a fast moving ball, the fix is to put tape blocking the lower third of the opto holes.
- The back raptor pen target was positioned too far left and would get wedged and stuck behind the post to its left so it wouldn't register (switch stuck closed), I had to reposition the target.
- The tilt ring was assembled lopsided, so the pendulum was almost contacting the ring even without the tilt bob at all, I had to bend the ring outwards to center that.
At least I haven't had any problems with the truck, though there are some reports of that too.

I just noticed the up-post behind the spinner when I was wotking on the right ramp.... when is that actuated? Never noticed it...

#20411 89 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I know that some have had issues, and not discounting those experiences whatsoever. However, sometimes the impression is made (intentional or not) that ever single game coming off the line has multiple issues. I honestly think it is a small minority of games with issues, and of course these are the ones that people are most vocal about. Absolutely nothing wrong with sharing these cases, as we're all vocal about negative experiences. For some reason, I'm thinking the Stern plant doesn't exactly follow six sigma accredited manufacturing processes.

Only issue I had was the leaning raptor.... not a big deal and did not impact game play at all..... just bugged me.

#20412 89 days ago
Quoted from JMCFAN:

I just noticed the up-post behind the spinner when I was wotking on the right ramp.... when is that actuated? Never noticed it...

When you go up the right side of the orbit. It puts you into the pops.

Added 89 days ago:

Edit: Wrong info above. Correct info below, here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/409#post-7903767

#20413 89 days ago

I would like to replace the flat raptor plastic with an actual figure

Any solid recommendations as I’m late to the game and many have been scooped up or a picture of the figure many have used

WOW I’m really happy to have this game
Funny I played it on location and was
Like meh .. my son informed me that the location game played like garbage because of several issues that took away from the game play

#20414 89 days ago
Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:

I would like to replace the flat raptor plastic with an actual figure
Any solid recommendations

Search through topic Gallary plenty of options.

#20415 89 days ago
Quoted from JMCFAN:

I just noticed the up-post behind the spinner when I was wotking on the right ramp.... when is that actuated? Never noticed it...

If the truck is facing to the right, then the orbit up-post will divert a right orbit shot into the pops - this will light the Light Escape target (if the Escape outlane is not lit). Of course if the truck is facing to the left, then the up-post remains down allowing the ball to do a full orbit

#20416 88 days ago

Stern needs to be mindful of the lights they flash during certain light shows, (Escape, nedry and Smart Missile).

Today I had a really good game going, completed a control room mode and the ball came out of the control room after shooting the last shot and off the one flipper and into the left inlane. Since I completed the control room mode I guess it was doing it's light show and when the ball came into the inlane it looked like the smart missile light was lit.

I took a step back for a second only to watch the ball roll down the left flipper and drain and not be held for the smart missile shot. I then realized the smart missile insert must have only briefly lit because of the celebration light show for completing the mode.

This has happened before to me on Godzilla, where some light show was happening and I had a ball going to the left outlane and didn't do an aggressive shake since Mothra ball save was lit, only to realize that it wasn't lit, it was only briefly lit as part of a light show.

I know its only minor and doesn't happen often, but they shouldn't flash inserts for ball saves, out lane saves or lights that signal a ball will lock or stay put during a light show.

Normally it's like whatever, but I had completed visitor center, now had secure control room lit and 1 T Rex mode away from museum mayhem. So on one of my best games ever and still had one more ball to play besides the ball in play. Well on my way to escape from nublar and possibly my first ever when dinos ruled the earth and probably a new GC.

Played the final ball, got secure control room but drained on last T rex mode. Bummed as I should have had one more ball to play but didn't as a result of my misread.

I know, should have been paying more attention but still frustrating and bummed just missed setting a new GC

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#20417 88 days ago
Quoted from ZoraShinoda:

they shouldn't flash inserts for ball saves, out lane saves or lights that signal a ball will lock or stay put during a light show.

100%. Couldn't agree more.

#20418 88 days ago

Played in a tournament on Saturday. No matter were you where in the warehouse with over 60 games all being played you could hear the TREX screaming. It was hysterical and awesome. Happy AF to finally have it in my home.

The shaker motor is insane on this thing, reminds me of Iron Maiden the only other game for me that was just as crazy.

#20419 88 days ago

I recently discovered on my JP30 (built back in August, of course) that the Jeep/Truck assembly was *really* wobbly. It seemed like there was way too much side-to-side play in the post. So I took apart the mechanism from under the playfield and discovered that the plastic bushing seems to be the same part used in the flipper assemblies. However, this particular plastic bushing was significantly deformed. Almost look like it was partially melted, which I assume must've happened prior to assembly because the post has no electricity and shouldn't generate enough friction to heat up the plastic that much.

So I replaced that bushing with a spare machined-aluminum bushing from my precision flipper kits, and now there is a lot less play, and the post rotates much more smoothly and cleanly. I can definitely tell in gameplay that the truck flips left-right with much more consistency now, whereas it used to require a really direct, full-power hit before.

Just an FYI for others that might be inspecting/tinkering/cleaning up that area of their playfield.

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#20420 88 days ago
Quoted from bwalter:

I recently discovered on my JP30 (built back in August, of course) that the Jeep/Truck assembly was *really* wobbly. It seemed like there was way too much side-to-side play in the post. So I took apart the mechanism from under the playfield and discovered that the plastic bushing seems to be the same part used in the flipper assemblies. However, this particular plastic bushing was significantly deformed. Almost look like it was partially melted, which I assume must've happened prior to assembly because the post has no electricity and shouldn't generate enough friction to heat up the plastic that much.
So I replaced that bushing with a spare machined-aluminum bushing from my precision flipper kits, and now there is a lot less play, and the post rotates much more smoothly and cleanly. I can definitely tell in gameplay that the truck flips left-right with much more consistency now, whereas it used to require a really direct, full-power hit before.
Just an FYI for others that might be inspecting/tinkering/cleaning up that area of their playfield.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Sorry you had to deal with that, but great discovery! I'd be very curious for the difference between the stock bushing (un melted of course) and the precision bushing. Might have to try this, thank you for sharing. Glad it worked out well for you

#20421 88 days ago
Quoted from MiniPinHead:

Sorry you had to deal with that, but great discovery! I'd be very curious for the difference between the stock bushing (un melted of course) and the precision bushing. Might have to try this, thank you for sharing. Glad it worked out well for you

Here you go. Some quick pictures of another spare precision bushing and one of the 'clean' plastic bushings from Stern. They appear to have identical measurements overall, but the plastic bushings (I have almost a dozen of them now, swapping them out for the precisions) have minor inconsistencies, particularly along the edges at the ends of the hollow shaft.

The precision bushings have a separate metal liner (brass? copper?) inside the shaft with an ever-so-slightly narrower diameter than the factory part (too close to see the difference with the naked eye) but still fits the JP truck/jeep post. There's still a tiny bit of side-to-side play in the reassembled mechanism, but *far* less than there was before (and still less than another NIB JP). It would seem that the JP truck/jeep's post is itself slightly narrower than the factory flipper posts.

IMG_6273 (resized).jpegIMG_6273 (resized).jpegIMG_6274 (resized).jpegIMG_6274 (resized).jpegIMG_6275 (resized).jpegIMG_6275 (resized).jpeg
#20422 88 days ago
Quoted from bwalter:

The precision bushings have a separate metal liner (brass? copper?) inside the shaft with an ever-so-slightly narrower diameter than the factory part (too close to see the difference with the naked eye)...

Interestingly enough, the precision bushing's shaft diameter is slightly too narrow for *some* of the Stern factory flipper posts that I've swapped out of my 2023 Sterns. Specifically, the flipper bushings from my AIQ Pro are made from a different plastic material than my other 2023 Sterns, and the flipper posts from the same AIQ are slightly narrower (again, not visibly) and fit more loosely in the non-AIQ bushings. It's not a problem in my case because I'm using the precision flipper posts+bats as well, but if I'd only bought the bushings intending to keep all of my factory flippers, I would've been out of luck with some of them. (I didn't keep track of which flipper posts came from which [non-AIQ] 2023 Sterns.)

#20423 88 days ago
Quoted from bwalter:

Interestingly enough, the precision bushing's shaft diameter is slightly too narrow for *some* of the Stern factory flipper posts that I've swapped out of my 2023 Sterns. Specifically, the flipper bushings from my AIQ Pro are made from a different plastic material than my other 2023 Sterns, and the flipper posts from the same AIQ are slightly narrower (again, not visibly) and fit more loosely in the non-AIQ bushings. It's not a problem in my case because I'm using the precision flipper posts+bats as well, but if I'd only bought the bushings intending to keep all of my factory flippers, I would've been out of luck with some of them. (I didn't keep track of which flipper posts came from which [non-AIQ] 2023 Sterns.)

Great info, thank you for sharing!

Very excited you confirmed the jeep mod works well! Do you think there are any possible downsides to the precision bushing on the jeep?

#20424 88 days ago

We just got one a week ago and it's super fun. Looking through this thread for ideas.

#20425 88 days ago
Quoted from MiniPinHead:

Great info, thank you for sharing!
Very excited you confirmed the jeep mod works well! Do you think there are any possible downsides to the precision bushing on the jeep?

None that I know of. It should last a good long time now because the parts are more durable and fit better.

#20426 86 days ago

Anyone leaving the JP Club and wants to sell mods off the game

Just shoot me a message

#20427 86 days ago

Finally found a set of bumper post colors that am satisfied with. The color of the bumper post rubbers (Durabands) corresponds to the lamp colors on the ramp signs (or in the case of the Raptor gate, the first light color in the series (red, yellow, green).

All"
Helicopter Ramp is Yellow for Helipad
[att=7909523,3680755 caption="Helicopter RampAll" Helicopter Ramp is Yellow for Helipad [att=7909523,3680755 caption="Helicopter Ramp

Pteranodon Ramp is Orange for Extra Ball and Blue for Pteranodon Attack

Pteranodon RampPteranodon Ramp

Left Ramp / T-Rex Ramp is Green for T-Rex event and Yellow for Advance Paddock

Left Ramp / T-Rex RampLeft Ramp / T-Rex Ramp

Raptor Gate

Raptor GateRaptor Gate

#20428 86 days ago

Those not matching introduces some kind of uneasiness in me. LOL

#20429 86 days ago
Quoted from jrcmlc:

Those not matching introduces some kind of uneasiness in me. LOL

Makes me twitchy too lol.

#20430 86 days ago
Quoted from jrcmlc:

Those not matching introduces some kind of uneasiness in me. LOL

Heh, for me it's the desaturating overbright lighting overhead. Looks like the pin is in an operating room under the lights.

#20431 86 days ago
Quoted from jrcmlc:

Those not matching introduces some kind of uneasiness in me. LOL

Tried greens on the left and right ramps, yellow for the heli, and blacks for the raptor. That was alright.

Did greens on the left ramp, and yellows for the right and heli. Then eventually reds for the raptor. That was better.

Changed the yellows on the right ramp to orange, and that made me realize the posts could tie to the sign lamps. The rest history

The initial color choices were all for aesthetics, but this has stuck because the tie to the gameplay colors.

Quoted from AMartin56:

Makes me twitchy too lol.

Yeah, also was worried, but matching the signs and post colors was practical for playing the game. Can call out colors for people playing. Most people playing this game have never seen a pinball machine in a house, let alone a JP

Quoted from bwalter:

Heh, for me it's the desaturating overbright lighting overhead. Looks like the pin is in an operating room under the lights.

Haha, need to see those pathways

Blinded by the light...Blinded by the light...

#20432 85 days ago

Quick Paddock question. The rule card says to hit the Trap target, then helipad to capture the dinosaur. It seems the trap is enabled after a couple of rescues and after hitting it the Helipad light turns on but when I shoot the moving yellow shot without hitting the helipad it still captures the dinosaur. What’s the point of the helipad shot after hitting the trap shot? Seems it’s not needed to catch the bounty?

#20433 85 days ago

Smart missile shot

You guys always go for " Clear a paddock" or no?

#20434 85 days ago
Quoted from ExSquid:

Smart missile shot
You guys always go for " Clear a paddock" or no?

I always go for Light Outlanes for the missile shot or extra ball if available.

Even now in the Bracchiasaurus paddock I rescued 2, hit the Set Trap and the Helipad light came on. I then hit the helipad shot twice but it didn’t seem to do anything. When I hit the yellow shot after hitting Set Trap regardless of whether I hit the helipad it seems to capture the dinosaur either way…

#20435 85 days ago
Quoted from briyau15:

Quick Paddock question. The rule card says to hit the Trap target, then helipad to capture the dinosaur. It seems the trap is enabled after a couple of rescues and after hitting it the Helipad light turns on but when I shoot the moving yellow shot without hitting the helipad it still captures the dinosaur. What’s the point of the helipad shot after hitting the trap shot? Seems it’s not needed to catch the bounty?

1st paddock doesn’t require the helipad shot

#20436 85 days ago
Quoted from briyau15:

Quick Paddock question. The rule card says to hit the Trap target, then helipad to capture the dinosaur. It seems the trap is enabled after a couple of rescues and after hitting it the Helipad light turns on but when I shoot the moving yellow shot without hitting the helipad it still captures the dinosaur. What’s the point of the helipad shot after hitting the trap shot? Seems it’s not needed to catch the bounty?

Some paddocks don't need the helicopter shot as stated above. Pretty simple rule of thumb after you hit the trap targets: if the arrows are green, hit the helipad. If they are yellow, you can capture the dino.

#20437 85 days ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

Some paddocks don't need the helicopter shot as stated above. Pretty simple rule of thumb after you hit the trap targets: if the arrows are green, hit the helipad. If they are yellow, you can capture the dino.

Good to know!

#20438 85 days ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

Some paddocks don't need the helicopter shot as stated above. Pretty simple rule of thumb after you hit the trap targets: if the arrows are green, hit the helipad. If they are yellow, you can capture the dino.

Thanks. Thought it was a setting that got changed somewhere along the line. I probably haven’t progressed far enough to require the helipad shot yet.

#20439 85 days ago
Quoted from briyau15:

Thanks. Thought it was a setting that got changed somewhere along the line. I probably haven’t progressed far enough to require the helipad shot yet.

That’s when the fun starts. It’s great if you can start any multiball after the rescues qualify the traps or after hitting the traps is even better. Multi ball will get you the ball save so you can let balls drain one by one to get the setup for the heli pad shot with a simple ski pass .

#20440 85 days ago

I was able to catch many Crane flies this past summer and make some more JP shooter rods. I cast an actual crane fly in resin in the middle of three amber layers.
After casting, I mounted a brass fitting in the resin and screwed in the threaded blank shooter rod from Pinball Life to ensure the proper length. I wanted to make sure they provided the proper full plunge.
I then lathed them into a very nice plunger shape, which happens to be a bit larger than the official JP plunger. They were then sanded with 225, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, 3000 and then polished to a high gloss finish.
There are 11 completed shooter rods. 7 of which I would consider very nice. There are 4 that I would consider seconds. The shooter itself looks great and has great feel, but was a bit too small or the crane fly cast wass not perfect.
I have 17 more in the works. They are cast and ready for lathing, then polishing. I hope to complete these this winter.
Anyone interested can PM me before I list them in a Pinside ad.
thumbnail_IMG_1868 (resized).jpgthumbnail_IMG_1868 (resized).jpg

Prime No.2 (resized).JPGPrime No.2 (resized).JPGthumbnail_IMG_1860 (resized).jpgthumbnail_IMG_1860 (resized).jpgthumbnail_IMG_1863 (resized).jpgthumbnail_IMG_1863 (resized).jpg
#20441 85 days ago

Sorry guys, but new to this tread and don't want to read everything to try to find the latest answers. Hoping someone can help.

I currently am running the video/audio code 1.05 from an awesome pinsider who did a fantastic job by turning a dinosaur pin into a real Jurassic Park pin. Now that Stern has way newer code, wondering what everyone is running? I heard others are making some nice audio/video additions to the latest code, so hoping someone can point me in the right direction?

Thanks!

#20442 85 days ago

Pm sent

Quoted from hd60609:

I was able to catch many Crane flies this past summer and make some more JP shooter rods. I cast an actual crane fly in resin in the middle of three amber layers.
After casting, I mounted a brass fitting in the resin and screwed in the threaded blank shooter rod from Pinball Life to ensure the proper length. I wanted to make sure they provided the proper full plunge.
I then lathed them into a very nice plunger shape, which happens to be a bit larger than the official JP plunger. They were then sanded with 225, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, 3000 and then polished to a high gloss finish.
There are 11 completed shooter rods. 7 of which I would consider very nice. There are 4 that I would consider seconds. The shooter itself looks great and has great feel, but was a bit too small or the crane fly cast wass not perfect.
I have 17 more in the works. They are cast and ready for lathing, then polishing. I hope to complete these this winter.
Anyone interested can PM me before I list them in a Pinside ad.
[quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

#20443 85 days ago
Quoted from Cudaman:

Sorry guys, but new to this tread and don't want to read everything to try to find the latest answers. Hoping someone can help.
I currently am running the video/audio code 1.05 from an awesome pinsider who did a fantastic job by turning a dinosaur pin into a real Jurassic Park pin. Now that Stern has way newer code, wondering what everyone is running? I heard others are making some nice audio/video additions to the latest code, so hoping someone can point me in the right direction?
Thanks!

I liked the movie code.... but the updates swayed me to the latest Stern code.... dont be lazy.... read...pluses and minuses....do your research..... or get a extra SD card and try both....its that easy....

#20444 84 days ago
Quoted from ExSquid:

Smart missile shot
You guys always go for " Clear a paddock" or no?

100% always INVALID? when available, otherwise extra ball. I love playing the INVALID? multball. It cracks me up every time.

#20445 82 days ago

JP 30th on Pinside:

PINSIDE RATING
This game has received 10 approved Pinsider ratings. 40 more approved ratings are needed to get a rating and for it to be eligible for the Pinside Pinball Top 100 ranking.

Surely more than 10 approved Pinsiders have played the 30th by now? Why so few ratings?

Another 30 ratings are needed for this version to appear on the Pinside Top 100. A this rate it will take a long time for the 30th to appear along side the other JPs

What this may indicate, and almost certainly does, is that less than 500 units were produced. If so, then this model is one very rare bird.

#20446 82 days ago
Quoted from Cudaman:

Sorry guys, but new to this tread and don't want to read everything to try to find the latest answers. Hoping someone can help.
I currently am running the video/audio code 1.05 from an awesome pinsider who did a fantastic job by turning a dinosaur pin into a real Jurassic Park pin. Now that Stern has way newer code, wondering what everyone is running? I heard others are making some nice audio/video additions to the latest code, so hoping someone can point me in the right direction?
Thanks!

Reach out to DystopicPinball for a lite mod version of the latest code from stern, with *SOME* audio/video edits made (hundreds) but all the needed rule callouts still intact. Once you master the game, reach out to PoMC or butterz for a totally movie-aligned experience with thousands of edits included. (Nearly everything has been updated in these versions based on the original 1.05 edits made a few years ago.)

#20447 82 days ago
Quoted from Aussiepinwiz:

JP 30th on Pinside:
PINSIDE RATING
This game has received 10 approved Pinsider ratings. 40 more approved ratings are needed to get a rating and for it to be eligible for the Pinside Pinball Top 100 ranking.

Surely more than 10 approved Pinsiders have played the 30th by now? Why so few ratings?
Another 30 ratings are needed for this version to appear on the Pinside Top 100. A this rate it will take a long time for the 30th to appear along side the other JPs
What this may indicate, and almost certainly does, is that less than 500 units were produced. If so, then this model is one very rare bird.

Could be that most owners previously owned a different version of JP and don’t feel the need to review twice

Or far more likely, most owners don’t actually review games

#20448 82 days ago
Quoted from Aussiepinwiz:

JP 30th on Pinside:
PINSIDE RATING
This game has received 10 approved Pinsider ratings. 40 more approved ratings are needed to get a rating and for it to be eligible for the Pinside Pinball Top 100 ranking.

Surely more than 10 approved Pinsiders have played the 30th by now? Why so few ratings?
Another 30 ratings are needed for this version to appear on the Pinside Top 100. A this rate it will take a long time for the 30th to appear along side the other JPs
What this may indicate, and almost certainly does, is that less than 500 units were produced. If so, then this model is one very rare bird.

I can't imagine that Stern didn't build the 500 they said they would build, given that it was a Limited Edition run and they're all numbered.

My question is: Why should the 30th Anniversary Edition be rated separately? It's the same game with new art and a different color of armor. I ask this as a proud owner of a JP30, for the record. The playfield, gameplay, and mechanics are all the same, so why should it garner a separate rating?

#20449 82 days ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

Reach out to DystopicPinball for a lite mod version of the latest code from stern, with *SOME* audio/video edits made (hundreds) but all the needed rule callouts still intact. Once you master the game, reach out to PoMC or butterz for a totally movie-aligned experience with thousands of edits included. (Nearly everything has been updated in these versions based on the original 1.05 edits made a few years ago.)

Appreciate it. I've had the game for years, so think I have it down. I reached out to PoMc to get the code and will get that downloaded and installed soon.

#20450 82 days ago
Quoted from bwalter:

I can't imagine that Stern didn't build the 500 they said they would build, given that it was a Limited Edition run and they're all numbered.
My question is: Why should the 30th Anniversary Edition be rated separately? It's the same game with new art and a different color of armor. I ask this as a proud owner of a JP30, for the record. The playfield, gameplay, and mechanics are all the same, so why should it garner a separate rating?

100% agree.

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