(Topic ID: 248582)

Jurassic Park (Stern 2019 & 30th) Owners Club. Welcome! To Jurassic park.....

By CoolCatPinball

4 years ago


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#20301 3 months ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

Cover the bottom 1/2 of the receiver hole with black electrical tape. That will prevent light from leaking near the playfield and lengthen the duration on the sensor pulse for a fast moving ball. It is because a fast moving ball causes a shorter pulse, too short for the cpu to read reliably.

Another solution that worked for me was to remove the spacers between the ramp and flat clear cover plastic. Only removed the spacers over the optos (3) and left the front spacers in place (2).

#20302 3 months ago

Replaced the snake head T-Trex on the pro with a foam one from AliExpress.

BA3EAC8F-1EEE-4C05-8B47-88C6A9F91774 (resized).jpegBA3EAC8F-1EEE-4C05-8B47-88C6A9F91774 (resized).jpeg
#20303 3 months ago
Quoted from Stebel:

Replaced the snake head T-Trex on the pro with a foam one from AliExpress.
[quoted image]

he looks too happy, otherwise cool.

#20304 3 months ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Spinner from the right flipper should be clean to go around the orbit. From the left it's a tougher shot and a clean shot will get through to the orbit but other shots will go into the pops.

This is correct. The difference is the spin. The right flipper imparts counterclockwise spin, so when the top of the ball hits the top wall above the spinner, that boosts and propels the ball to the right. The left flipper imparts clockwise spin, which fights against the ball's momentum when it hits the top wall so it tends to stall and rattle.

If a shot from the right flipper isn't making it around to the upper flipper, check the up-post by the spinner, see if it's flush against the playfield when in the resting position; if it's not there's a screw on the underside to adjust that.

#20305 3 months ago
Quoted from jackd104:

Whatever the legs are set, the pitch is all that matters. On my JP I did notice that 6.8 pitch was all four feet adjust almost the same. Rear slightly higher. Most games the rear are quite a bit taller than front.

I usually never touch the front legs and always keep them all the way down.

Your 30th looks slick btw! congrats!

#20306 3 months ago
Quoted from Stebel:

Another solution that worked for me was to remove the spacers between the ramp and flat clear cover plastic. Only removed the spacers over the optos (3) and left the front spacers in place (2).

Interesting. I wonder why this would help?

Thanks for this tip and to the others as well. I didn’t know about left ramp test in diag.

#20307 3 months ago
Quoted from KING-HENRY:

he looks too happy, otherwise cool.

She’s just seen that goat!

#20308 3 months ago
Quoted from NoSkills:

She’s just seen that goat!

TRUTH!!

#20309 3 months ago
Quoted from jackd104:

Interesting. I wonder why this would help?
Thanks for this tip and to the others as well. I didn’t know about left ramp test in diag.

It keeps the ball from hopping too high over the entrance opto.

If the entrance opto not registering is the issue for your left ramp then (assuming the opto is working correctly) either the tape fix or lowering the plastic cover should work. I'd try the tape fix first. That's what I ended up doing on mine. On mine when I tried removing the spacer on the plastic cover it caused the ball to bounce down off it and into the ramp such that it robbed too much ball speed and resulted in rejects. I put the spacers back in and did the tape fix. It's one of those things where it will play a bit differently on individual machines though.

#20310 3 months ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

On mine when I tried removing the spacer on the plastic cover it caused the ball to bounce down off it and into the ramp such that it robbed too much ball speed and resulted in rejects.

Did you take out any of the bounce in the ramp first? I had to make adjustments to it and to the plastic shield/spacers.

#20311 3 months ago

Over the weekend, I had some 'time to kill', so I grabbed my box of JP mods that I had not yet gotten to install in my 2023 Premium. (Some had been installed/removed from my earlier JP machines). Along with the Stern Amber shooter, Brightmod Flipper buttons, the Shaker Motor, and two dozen other mods, I was reminded of a GREAT TOWER replacement from DystopicPinball in Europe and the updated Raptor Pen from Mezel. The Tower has one of the most faithful renditions of the movie tower I have seen, and has THREE LED LIGHTS which tie into the GI lighting. Couple that with the Mezel Raptor Pen and you have that whole area set!

Note1: I have no financial connection to the Tower mod seller, but he's a great guy, very responsive and thought I would share a picture for anyone with a new machine just dying to add another mod!

Note2: Like most JP owners, the pesky raptor tends to lean to the left, so I ended up using a heat gun on the raptor pen fence to bend one of the 'steel' beams on the left piece outwards a bit and prevent any conflict. Looks like it could have been made that way by Mezel and not out of place... very easy to do!

Tower: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/167216
Pen: https://mezelmods.com/products/jurassic-park-pinball-raptor-pen

TWR (resized).jpgTWR (resized).jpg

#20312 3 months ago

Thanks for the info on the #18 jeep all. Looking forward to getting this in and finding the helicopter.

IMG_3661 (resized).jpegIMG_3661 (resized).jpeg
#20313 3 months ago
Quoted from jackd104:

Spitter spinner shot is often rattly and dribbles into the pops rather than going around the orbit. Is that normal? Maybe supposed to go around only on very clean shot?

The pop-up post behind the spinner shot was a bit too high, creating a lip that was slowing down the ball. There’s a screw under pf for easy adjustment. Now it’s flat and that helped quite a bit. It’s still a little rattly but now I think it’s down to clean shot vs not.

#20314 3 months ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

It keeps the ball from hopping too high over the entrance opto.
If the entrance opto not registering is the issue for your left ramp then (assuming the opto is working correctly) either the tape fix or lowering the plastic cover should work. I'd try the tape fix first. That's what I ended up doing on mine. On mine when I tried removing the spacer on the plastic cover it caused the ball to bounce down off it and into the ramp such that it robbed too much ball speed and resulted in rejects. I put the spacers back in and did the tape fix. It's one of those things where it will play a bit differently on individual machines though.

In the diagnostic ramp test, I was getting occasional missed opto triggers from both the T. rex opto and the top opto. This with flipping to test. I tried the tape fix on both and seems to be working. 20/20 on diag test and no missed in 3 games. Thanks for all the tips.

IMG_1102 (resized).jpegIMG_1102 (resized).jpegIMG_1103 (resized).jpegIMG_1103 (resized).jpeg
#20315 3 months ago

Next in my series of dumb questions. The metal ball guide on the far right, leading to the helipad. Do others’ look like this? The ball guide is pushed back, exposing the rubber to ball path, and ball bounces off it coming down, instead of perhaps returning to right flipper.

IMG_1104 (resized).jpegIMG_1104 (resized).jpeg
#20316 3 months ago
Quoted from jackd104:

Next in my series of dumb questions. The metal ball guide on the far right, leading to the helipad. Do others’ look like this? The ball guide is pushed back, exposing the rubber to ball path, and ball bounces off it coming down, instead of perhaps returning to right flipper. [quoted image]

Yep

#20317 3 months ago

Hello,

I've owned a JP Pro for 3 months, it was NIB.

I have noticed that since the latest code update a couple weeks ago, the autoplunge seems to be intermittent. Symptoms as follows:

-At beginning of a ball, if I try to launch ball with action button, it is unresponsive until I hit a flipper first. Once I click one/both flippers, autoplunge works from action button. This happens nearly all the time.

-During multiball, the ball used to launch from the auto-plunge within a second or so, now I notice a delay of 2-5 seconds before the next ball comes. Almost as if the machine is trying a few times before the autoplunge is detected by the launcher switch.

-If I run a coil test, auto plunge works immediately and perfectly every time. Same if I test the action button in diagnostics, immediate and accurate response from the button. This is what has led me to believe this is a possible code issue.

Anyone else experience this issue? And, if I want to revert to the previous code to test, I would assume I would need to disable auto-updates and somehow load the code from the stern site to the machine manually?

As info this is a home-use only machine with roughly 1400 plays in about 3 months.

Thanks in advance.

#20318 3 months ago
Quoted from daremrc:

Hello,
I've owned a JP Pro for 3 months, it was NIB.
I have noticed that since the latest code update a couple weeks ago, the autoplunge seems to be intermittent. Symptoms as follows:
-At beginning of a ball, if I try to launch ball with action button, it is unresponsive until I hit a flipper first. Once I click one/both flippers, autoplunge works from action button. This happens nearly all the time.
-During multiball, the ball used to launch from the auto-plunge within a second or so, now I notice a delay of 2-5 seconds before the next ball comes. Almost as if the machine is trying a few times before the autoplunge is detected by the launcher switch.
-If I run a coil test, auto plunge works immediately and perfectly every time. Same if I test the action button in diagnostics, immediate and accurate response from the button. This is what has led me to believe this is a possible code issue.
Anyone else experience this issue? And, if I want to revert to the previous code to test, I would assume I would need to disable auto-updates and somehow load the code from the stern site to the machine manually?
As info this is a home-use only machine with roughly 1400 plays in about 3 months.
Thanks in advance.

First thing I would do is put the game into switch test with the glass off and bang on the playfield WITH YOUR FIST in different spots to see if any switches activate. It will flash on the screen if any do. Ideally you don't want anything triggering due to vibration. You might also bang on the cabinet underneath each flipper button.

#20319 3 months ago

Agreed

IMG_3583 (resized).jpegIMG_3583 (resized).jpeg
#20320 3 months ago
Quoted from AMartin56:

First thing I would do is put the game into switch test with the glass off and bang on the playfield WITH YOUR FIST in different spots to see if any switches activate. It will flash on the screen if any do. Ideally you don't want anything triggering due to vibration. You might also bang on the cabinet underneath each flipper button.

Thanks. I did just try this. I found no odd switch activation while banging on it.

I then tried a full factory reset and found that the problem persists.

Then, I tried a switch test with the 48V on and, watching my fingers, tried to activate the ball trough switch. I found that it activated immediately every time and the game chimed, but then the amount of time it took to actuate the auto-plunge seemed to vary by quite a bit, at least a full second.

not sure if that's 'normal' or not as I've never tried this before, but I did think it was odd and seems to jive with the problem I'm having. I feel like its almost like the software signaling has lost packets/collisions/delays when trying to activate the autoplunge, however when I go into diag and manually trigger the autoplunge coil, there is zero hesitation/latency.

Video of gameplay with action button not working:
https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipP476_66KloL4sTZ0VvEid2dVBbHnQjwOhQZneAg8LNdU2DmfQIW5iTczpNm01Z4g?key=MHN4QzJpRVAwNDROWmxZVEtRcTZqNXpteTA1cEln

Video of varied delay in autoplunge activation from ball trough switch closing:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/fa6XgKpzE9Ef4YkaA

#20321 3 months ago

Any ideas where this super tiny silver screw might have come from? Found it in my outlane. So far, I can't find any missing screws, or any others that are this small and silver.

20231127_202737.jpg20231127_202737.jpg

#20322 3 months ago
Quoted from ufiti:

Any ideas where this super tiny silver screw might have come from? Found it in my outlane. So far, I can't find any missing screws, or any others that are this small and silver.
[quoted image]

Pop bumper?

#20323 3 months ago

Checked those, none are missing, and those have rounded tops.

#20324 3 months ago
Quoted from ufiti:

Any ideas where this super tiny silver screw might have come from? Found it in my outlane. So far, I can't find any missing screws, or any others that are this small and silver.
[quoted image]

Closest ones I can find so far are on some of the plastics, but this one is much smaller still.

20231127_204345.jpg20231127_204345.jpg
#20325 3 months ago
Quoted from daremrc:

Thanks. I did just try this. I found no odd switch activation while banging on it.
I then tried a full factory reset and found that the problem persists.
Then, I tried a switch test with the 48V on and, watching my fingers, tried to activate the ball trough switch. I found that it activated immediately every time and the game chimed, but then the amount of time it took to actuate the auto-plunge seemed to vary by quite a bit, at least a full second.
not sure if that's 'normal' or not as I've never tried this before, but I did think it was odd and seems to jive with the problem I'm having. I feel like its almost like the software signaling has lost packets/collisions/delays when trying to activate the autoplunge, however when I go into diag and manually trigger the autoplunge coil, there is zero hesitation/latency.
Video of gameplay with action button not working:
https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipP476_66KloL4sTZ0VvEid2dVBbHnQjwOhQZneAg8LNdU2DmfQIW5iTczpNm01Z4g?key=MHN4QzJpRVAwNDROWmxZVEtRcTZqNXpteTA1cEln
Video of varied delay in autoplunge activation from ball trough switch closing:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/fa6XgKpzE9Ef4YkaA

You might try turning on double flipper ball launch in the menu and see if it acts the same as the fire button. Note that there does seem to be a slight delay before it lets you launch the ball with the flipper buttons. This seems normal to me.

I would check everything wiring wise through the shooter lane switch back through the node board. The manual tells you the path. Check for loose pins on the associated molex connectors and reseat the connectors with the power off on the node boards. It's possible even with a new machine that the shooter lane switch is just crapping out..But the behavior is a bit unusual IMO...normal if it's broken the game will launch a ball search. But intermittent problems can be a real PITA.

You might also check the diags menu and clear the trough using it. See if anything looks unusual in the test like phantom balls. Trough wackiness can make a game act possessed.

I really don't think it's the code. I play mine a lot with no issues.

#20326 3 months ago
Quoted from jackd104:

Next in my series of dumb questions. The metal ball guide on the far right, leading to the helipad. Do others’ look like this? The ball guide is pushed back, exposing the rubber to ball path, and ball bounces off it coming down, instead of perhaps returning to right flipper. [quoted image]

I've wondered this a while as well. On my game, a reject to the Helipad tended to go sdtm.

Ending up recently watching a couple early streams of the game on YouTube, including one w/ Keith playing, and noticed the ball bounced off that rubber and to the left flipper. So I just refreshed the rubber and started finally getting the bounce. Still don't know if this is truly how it was designed but Keith didn't mention it in the gameplay video

#20327 3 months ago
Quoted from AMartin56:

You might try turning on double flipper ball launch in the menu and see if it acts the same as the fire button. Note that there does seem to be a slight delay before it lets you launch the ball with the flipper buttons. This seems normal to me.
I would check everything wiring wise through the shooter lane switch back through the node board. The manual tells you the path. Check for loose pins on the associated molex connectors and reseat the connectors with the power off on the node boards. It's possible even with a new machine that the shooter lane switch is just crapping out..But the behavior is a bit unusual IMO...normal if it's broken the game will launch a ball search. But intermittent problems can be a real PITA.
You might also check the diags menu and clear the trough using it. See if anything looks unusual in the test like phantom balls. Trough wackiness can make a game act possessed.
I really don't think it's the code. I play mine a lot with no issues.

I turned the autoplunge up a bit and played 2 games and couldn't recreate again. I'll try more tomorrow, the only thing I noticed with the glass off was the coil for autoplunge seems a bit looser than the trough or either flipper.. starting to wonder if the coil sleeve may be loose/mushroomed. The trough switch audibly clicks on closing and opening but I think I will dig in with the multimeter this week.

Thanks again for the detailed response.

#20328 3 months ago
Quoted from ufiti:

Any ideas where this super tiny silver screw might have come from? Found it in my outlane. So far, I can't find any missing screws, or any others that are this small and silver.
[quoted image]

Quoted from ufiti:

Closest ones I can find so far are on some of the plastics, but this one is much smaller still.
[quoted image]

Shooter lane? They’re smaller than on the plastics.

IMG_3587 (resized).jpegIMG_3587 (resized).jpeg
#20329 3 months ago
Quoted from MiniPinHead:

Shooter lane? They’re smaller than on the plastics.
[quoted image]

Not missing either of the shooter lane screws. Took one out for comparison (left). Head seems nearly identical, but this is a very short machine screw.

Gonna need to think of a prize for whoever can figure this out! It's driving me nuts.

20231128_082727 (resized).jpg20231128_082727 (resized).jpg
#20330 3 months ago

Notice that it’s not a wood screw, so look at small playfield parts/mounts.
I can’t think off the top of my head, are there any of those little blue rubber nubs on this game?

#20331 3 months ago
Quoted from Wmsfan-GAP:

Notice that it’s not a wood screw, so look at small playfield parts/mounts.
I can’t think off the top of my head, are there any of those little blue rubber nubs on this game?

Right. Most of the small machine screws I can find are black and have rounded tops (t-rex mouth, tower, jeep, signs, etc). Haven't found any flat silver tops that are this small on anything yet. Don't see anything that could fit the description of little blue rubber nubs.

#20332 3 months ago
Quoted from ufiti:

Any ideas where this super tiny silver screw might have come from? Found it in my outlane. So far, I can't find any missing screws, or any others that are this small and silver.
[quoted image]

Check in back of the guard tower. There should be a small flat-head machine screw there holding down the plastic.

#20333 3 months ago
Quoted from John_C:

Check in back of the guard tower. There should be a small flat-head machine screw there holding down the plastic.

Hm, not seeing anything missing there either.

20231128_100836 (resized).jpg20231128_100836 (resized).jpg
#20334 3 months ago
Quoted from ufiti:

Not missing either of the shooter lane screws. Took one out for comparison (left). Head seems nearly identical, but this is a very short machine screw.
Gonna need to think of a prize for whoever can figure this out! It's driving me nuts.
[quoted image]

Looks like apron screw lift playfield check edge of apron.

#20335 3 months ago

It is much smaller than the ones holding the plastics down (pic).

And, I don't see any screws on the apron that are even close to that small.

I would be shocked if it didn't come from deeper inside of something, because I've checked around so many times now.

20231128_103155 (resized).jpg20231128_103155 (resized).jpg
#20336 3 months ago
Quoted from jackd104:

Next in my series of dumb questions. The metal ball guide on the far right, leading to the helipad. Do others’ look like this? The ball guide is pushed back, exposing the rubber to ball path, and ball bounces off it coming down, instead of perhaps returning to right flipper. [quoted image]

Almost all of them do, however mine does not have it pushed back and the ball returns to the right flipper every time. I'm actually considering moving it so it matches the rest of them.

#20337 3 months ago
Quoted from ufiti:

It is much smaller than the ones holding the plastics down (pic).
And, I don't see any screws on the apron that are even close to that small.
I would be shocked if it didn't come from deeper inside of something, because I've checked around so many times now.
[quoted image]

This is where Stern would say to bag it and save it, just in case, but sometimes things just fall into games during production

#20338 3 months ago
Quoted from MiniPinHead:

This is where Stern would say to bag it and save it, just in case, but sometimes things just fall into games during production

For sure, so far whatever it came out of isn't causing any issues. Not a big deal, just hoped someone might recognize it!

I've had this game for almost 2 years now, and have raised the playfield countless times to work on it. So, it would be a bit surprising to me if it were still in there from production.

#20339 3 months ago
Quoted from ufiti:

For sure, so far whatever it came out of isn't causing any issues. Not a big deal, just hoped someone might recognize it!
I've had this game for almost 2 years now, and have raised the playfield countless times to work on it. So, it would be a bit surprising to me if it were still in there from production.

Looks like it’s for the apron

#20340 3 months ago
Quoted from freddy:

Looks like it’s for the apron

I checked and don't see any screws on the apron that are even close to that small.

20231128_121659 (resized).jpg20231128_121659 (resized).jpg
#20341 3 months ago

Looks like this or take a look at a the manual looking at topside components. Its hard to know for sure from your picture about its actual size. https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/JurassicPark_LE_Pre_web.pdf

IMG_3739 (resized).jpegIMG_3739 (resized).jpeg
#20342 3 months ago
Quoted from Wmsfan-GAP:

Looks like this or take a look at a the manual looking at topside components. Its hard to know for sure from your picture about its actual size. https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/JurassicPark_LE_Pre_web.pdf[quoted image]

That's it, the middle gate!! Thank you sooo much! Now just have to figure out how to get in there.

#20343 3 months ago

Id laugh if some assembly tech just threw that screw in the cab as it was moving down the line...

#20344 3 months ago
Quoted from Wmsfan-GAP:

Looks like this or take a look at a the manual looking at topside components. Its hard to know for sure from your picture about its actual size. https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/JurassicPark_LE_Pre_web.pdf[quoted image]

Awesome job! Another example of why reaching for the manual first is important. Jealous, haha

#20345 89 days ago

Looking for advice on how to diagnose/treat a malfunctioning switch at the top of the right ramp (Pteranodon ramp). The switch seems to make contact and I can manually engage it with the glass off. I have tried bending the metal to ensure better movement when the ball travels through but have been unsuccessful.

I know this is a newbie question and I have tried searching this forum and reddit. Any advice would be much appreciated.

Thanks

IMG_8398 (resized).jpgIMG_8398 (resized).jpg
#20346 89 days ago
Quoted from DwightEisenhower:

Looking for advice on how to diagnose/treat a malfunctioning switch at the top of the right ramp (Pteranodon ramp). The switch seems to make contact and I can manually engage it with the glass off. I have tried bending the metal to ensure better movement when the ball travels through but have been unsuccessful.
I know this is a newbie question and I have tried searching this forum and reddit. Any advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks
[quoted image]

Is it stuck in an always compressed state?

#20347 89 days ago
Quoted from DwightEisenhower:

Looking for advice on how to diagnose/treat a malfunctioning switch at the top of the right ramp (Pteranodon ramp). The switch seems to make contact and I can manually engage it with the glass off. I have tried bending the metal to ensure better movement when the ball travels through but have been unsuccessful.
I know this is a newbie question and I have tried searching this forum and reddit. Any advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks
[quoted image]

Sounds like you're on the right track. When the ball passes through the gate, the gate lifts up. That causes the metal arm coming out of the gate to push down on the metal leaf attached to the micro switch. That metal leaf then should push the button on the micro switch to register the shot.

Sounds like you've checked that the button on the micro switch is working correctly. So the most likely fix will be adjusting one or both of the levers mentioned above that involved in pushing the button.

I'd first try to bend the metal leaf switch in a different way so that when the gate pushes on it the opposite side of the leaf is pushing more on the button. Maybe bend it differently from the button side of the leaf so it will push the button when the gate arm presses on the opposite side of the leaf. It can be done by hand or using screw drivers as levers, but if you have a leaf adjustment tool it makes it a lot easier. Some combination of adding one or two slight bends should do the trick.

https://www.pinballlife.com/ultimate-leaf-adjuster-tool.html

Adjusting the arm of the gate to push more on the leaf might also help, but I'd think you can probably get it fixed by just adjusting the leaf switch so it will press the button.

#20348 89 days ago
Quoted from MiniPinHead:

Is it stuck compressed?

No, it does not appear compressed when it is not registering balls.

#20349 89 days ago
Quoted from MiniPinHead:

Is it stuck in an always compressed state?

Yep this is a good point. Is the button not registering because it's already pushed in or because it's not being pushed? That will determine which way he needs to bend the leaf.

#20350 89 days ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Sounds like you're on the right track. When the ball passes through the gate, the gate lifts up. That causes the metal arm coming out of the gate to push down on the metal leaf attached to the micro switch. That metal leaf then should push the button on the micro switch to register the shot.
Sounds like you've checked that the button on the micro switch is working correctly. So the most likely fix will be adjusting one or both of the levers mentioned above that involved in pushing the button.
I'd first try to bend the metal leaf switch in a different way so that when the gate pushes on it the opposite side of the leaf is pushing more on the button. Maybe bend it differently from the button side of the leaf so it will push the button when the gate arm presses on the opposite side of the leaf. It can be done by hand or using screw drivers as levers, but if you have a leaf adjustment tool it makes it a lot easier. Some combination of adding one or two slight bends should do the trick.
https://www.pinballlife.com/ultimate-leaf-adjuster-tool.html
Adjusting the arm of the gate to push more on the leaf might also help, but I'd think you can probably get it fixed by just adjusting the leaf switch so it will press the button.

Thanks! This is very helpful. Will try this weekend and report back.

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$ 29.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
Toys/Add-ons
$ 16.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
Toys/Add-ons
From: $ 35.00
Cabinet - Armor And Blades
arcade-cabinets.com
Armor and blades
$ 70.00
Playfield - Other
Pin Monk
Other
From: $ 45.00
Cabinet - Decals
arcade-cabinets.com
Decals
$ 45.00
Cabinet - Decals
Inscribed Solutions
Decals
$ 7.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
Toys/Add-ons
$ 5.00
Playfield - Protection
UpKick Pinball
Protection
$ 8.00
Cabinet - Other
Pinball Fuzz
Other
9,250
Machine - For Sale
Carmel Hamlet, NY
$ 8.00
Cabinet - Other
NO GOUGE PINBALL™
Other
From: $ 399.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
Led
€ 45.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Pino Pinball Mods Shop
Toys/Add-ons
8,750
Machine - For Sale
Niwot, CO
From: $ 30.00
Cabinet - Toppers
+CY Universal
Toppers
$ 19.50
Cabinet - Other
NO GOUGE PINBALL™
Other
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