Glad you got your trex fixed. I know it can be a PIA paying this much for a new game and having something important broken. I know they QC every game before it goes out but ya never know something can get pinched or wiggled around during transit or setup and mess your day up.

I found out after a year that my Batman 66 crane was supposded to lite up.... disassembleed and found one wire just hanging there.. quick solder job and no effect on game play... but geeez

Anyone else still waiting on Cointaker to ship their Premium? Paid in full almost 2 months ago.

Lots of discussions over the years about flipper alignment on JP. Some is a personal choice, some try to adhere to the designer's podcast comments, others try to use the alignment dots as their 'OFFICIAL STERN' guidance. It's your machine so you can do anything you like. That said, most would agree that your 3rd flipper alignment is not optimal or in the spirit of good solid play. Flipper tip to post center is likely contributing to your SDTM experience. Most choose to have the face of the flipper rubber aligned to allow the ball to contact the post sleeve rubber.

I personally don't have a SDTM experience. I'm fine with it how it is. I think the intent is for you to have to flip. Some people even claim that Elwin originally designed it with NO post reinforcing the must flip theory..

This is the intent straight from Keith Elwin in the other JP forum:

Didn’t order thru cointaker I’m but waiting on mine. Should be in Monday or Tuesday. It was expected this week but my distro said for some reason it got hung up at the shipping facility in Chicago.

Sorry but I'm still a bit confused by what he means. So mine is correct or no?

A few hundred NIB JP-Prem machines were delivered in the past month. Can someone post a picture of the flippers as they SHIP DIRECTLY FROM STERN? That might be a good starting point for you to consider.

Never touched mine.... this is where it is... yours looks to be dead center with the post

flip (resized).jpg

WTF man. Why are you arguing with me? I'm curious to hear clarification on what the designer's intent was but otherwise I'm perfectly fine with my machine as is. I think you have me confused with someone else.

Having said that it's laughable to suggest that every machine (or even most of them) comes out of the factory perfectly. Look back a few pages at flipper lane variance from machine to machine as an example.

Keith Elwin, the designer of the machine, said on these forums in the JP thread, that the upper flipper should have the dot aligned with the top of the flipper bat. So basically it should be lined up with the rubber on the top of the flipper, per the designers intent.

The user sk8ball is Keith Elwin on here.

That is all that he's saying.

It's your own game though so you can do as you please. But the designer's intention was for the ball to roll down the flipper and bounce off the post.

Thanks. So it sounds like mine as I posted earlier (and below) is slightly off from the factory. I'm fine with it. I played a few games and just for yucks I let the ball roll down the flipper when leaving the O shot. Depending on the speed more often than not it would either feed the left or right flipper tip. So there is the potential for danger there but it's not a guaranteed SDTM. And I like that I have to anticipate danger there and potentially microflip to direct it to the left.

PXL_20230607_184116308 (resized).jpg

Not lined up with the rubber. Lined up with the plastic front face of the flipper bat. Lining it up with the front face of the rubber would expose too much post.

Best choice is to always stick with what you're happy with on your machine.

Hey guys, Just became a proud new owner of JP Prem. After a couple of weeks. Rex lost two screws under his jaw. My approach to this is to remove the T-Rex by unscrewing the #2 Trex main assembly by removing the four #13 screws and then disconnecting the #30 split washer from the control arm. Am I on the right track or is there an easier way? If there are any reference videos or pictures (other than the manual), please let me know.

Thanks

Dr. Grant

IMG_3633 (resized).jpeg

While it looks daugnting at first from the diagram, those 4 screws and the C-spring washer and a few wire connectors let's the whole thing be removed. It's actually much simpler than it looks... but you would be well served to come up with a way to raise the back of the playfield first. (some clamps, playfield jacks, a dowel, etc) And make sure you take a bunch of pictures before you do any dis-assembly, just to refer to when you are re-assembling it later.

Same here, I'm just waiting on the word to go pick it up. I'm not that far from them. It's not just you.

Yours is quite a bit further out than mine is, I haven't read the rest of the thread just wanted to share.

Yeah. I may move it as an experiment when I have to rebuild the flippers. But it's fine for now and I won't need to rebuild anything for awhile..

By the way..Just for the sake of argument. Here are photos of two machines I've played on location. Note the upper flipper angle. First is LE in Fort Worth at Cidercade. Second is Pinballz in Buda.

Screenshot_20230609-200122 (resized).png

Screenshot_20230609-200245 (resized).png

I did a search for the word “fan” to see if anyone else had this issue. Once the cooling fan kicks in, it only runs for about 9 seconds. Then it shuts off for about 29 seconds. This timing pattern was very consistent over several fan cycles. I have several other Stern games that I have replaced the stock fan with the Pinmonk fan and I don't recall any of them running for this short a period of time. Has anyone else noticed this on their game? I have a JP premium.

Thanks.

My Premium is arriving Monday. Can't wait!

Both are incorrect according to the game designer for what thats worth

Fair enough. But you can see why I think it's normal. I've yet to play on a machine where it's setup 'correctly'. The LE was probably old enough to have been shopped out but pretty sure the Pro was factory stock. It was clean and Pinballz barely even removes the glass on anything anymore.

I didn't clock mine but it wasn't rythmic like that or I would have noticed, and non issue now.

I've got a small issue with my NIB JP Prem. rec'd about 10 days ago. I've heard others complain about this same thing about other NIB Stern machines, but have yet to hear a good solution:
The glass is extremely hard to remove. I can't remove it unless I put on rubber (maybe they're vinyl?) surgical looking gloves which give a better grip on the glass when trying to pull the glass down while only making finger tip contact on the glass. I've tried cleaning out the glass grooves and putting soap on the edges of the glass. There must be a better way?

Also, since there's some previous discussion of the alignment of the upper flipper, here's a pic of how I rec'd my NIB game.

IMG_4327 (resized).jpeg

Like all things....my glass was really tight too when I first started out, but now after having it in and out 50 times working on crap, it's loose enough to not be an issue and doesn't hurt anymore.

My Foo was tight also. JP was the tightest of our 4 games and almost could not get it to move. I pulled it out and then put it about 1/3 back in and started sliding it in and out until it started getting easier to move. Advanced it another 1/3 and repeated until it was tight but manageable to move with moderate pressure. Just wearing in the groove I guess

Lining up with the rubber is lining up with the front face of the flipper bat.

I mean to be fair, if you are making any adjustments to the upper flipper, and you aren't on pinside, you would line up the bat tip with the dot. That is what you do everywhere else with pins so you'd do it with the upper flipper because it just makes sense. Hell I could see someone getting it from the factory and seeing it not aligned, so they go and adjust it so it's aligned, which is now putting it in the wrong position according to the designers.

Why they simply didn't just move the dot so that it lined up with the bat tip (in the designed position that it comes from factory) is beyond me and makes no sense. That would have solved any kind of confusion.

Just put a dab of removable locktite on each screw, each insert with a magnetized offset screwdriver and put them back in place. I did not have to remove mine or use playfield jacks (though if you’ve got them, jacks would make the angle of approach easier).

There is a “skinny” version of the glass which Stern can provide in extreme cases and under warranty. I have seen the part invoice posted on this conference a few months ago. If you get really beyond annoyed, contact warranty and ask them to send the skinny glass replacement. ( I think it is 1/16 inch smaller in width).

This has to be like blinker fluid and such right? Surely they don't make a skinny glass.

They actually do make a skinny glass. Weird as it sounds…

Well, thank you guys for giving me the skinny on solving my tight glass issue. I think I'll keep using my surgical gloves for removing it, and hope it gets a bit looser in a couple of months worth of removal & replacement.

They always do.

New member to the club. I bought NIB premium and when the game arrived, the T Rex’s lower jaw was biting the ramp. I would like to test it to make sure it is functioning properly. What is the best way to do that? Also, where would I find a manual or better yet a video on how to dismantle and reassemble the Mech. Thank you!

Don't disassemble anything prior to adjusting the set positions via the service menu.

So I've had this game for about a month now, and have been trying to tweak it to get it working smoothly. The only shot that seems to be giving me grief now is the helipad. For one, the plunger isn't strong enough to make it up the ramp, but the autolaunch is, so that's fine as a workaround. Gives some options for skill shots. Shooting that ramp from the left is sometimes flaky though. For shots that feel like they should make it, 85% are OK, but there's some that will make it part way up the ramp and roll back. Flipper power is at 255, and incline is at 6.9-7: should I try going shallower? Autolaunch also fails maybe 15% of the time (rattle). Game appears level L/R, but is this game particularly sensitive to being slightly off? Just wondering if there are tweaks others made to this shot.

Cliffy Carbon Fiber ramp flaps makes it much smoother

What is this?
Is this the source of the shooter rod?

https://www.toynk.com/products/jurassic-park-mosquito-in-amber-resin-paper-weight-measures-3-inches-tall

Screenshot 2023-06-12 at 12.57.31 PM (resized).png

First step would be to simply run through the diagnostics in the MENU. The diags have one set that allows the head to move left-center-right, and another diagnostics that allows up and down. If those two diags run fine, you are golden. There are some minor adjustments for making sure CENTER is above the center of the ramp, which I think are called OFFSET which allows you to align the jaw with the center of the plastic ramp.

That paperweight is bigger than the shooter rod amber part shipped by Stern. Same kind of thing however and would be a good choice if you wanted to DIY a shooter rod. You'd be missing the animated/integrated LED from the shooter plate, but the rod would look very similiar.

Does anyone remember what the cost was for a NIB JP Pro, in 2019 before all the prices went crazy. I bought mine used, so not sure what the “sticker” price was from Stern

There's a thread with all prices updated in the first post of the thread. Here's a link:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sterns-game-release-history#post-2326137

Premium was $7200.

Pro was $5900 - $6200

My Prem was $7799 in May of 21...

Got my Jurassic Park Premium. Betson delivered it yesterday. Unfortunately I wasn't super confident in the guys who set it up. Either they took the bag of stuff in the coinbox with them when they left or the bag wasn't there. I know I'm missing (didn't receive) keys to the back glass or the weight on the tilt mechanism. Anyone know what else is in in that bag?

Backbox keys should be on a hook inside the coin door. On a coin mech. Open the door and shake it. The keys should catch your attention.