I don't know what most of that means, but it sounds like we need to be talking privately. Lol

LOL. Happy to mail you a set for free to help ease the pain from all the BS you've been through with your JP.

It's capitalism. Somebody sees a need, they create a solution, then they set a price to see what the market will bear. If you don't like it, then don't buy it or offer a competing product/solution (assuming no patents are violated).

Yeah yeah. I get it. I just find it disappointing that the "community" tries so hard to nickle and dime to profit off each other.

I sent you a pm... But profit and gouging are big differences to me. Tantrum sells some cool stuff and his prices are very reasonable considering what I know about what goes into them. I am gathering that my $65 playfield Jacks are wildly overpriced and maybe not as fair.... Making a profit and providing something to someone they can't or don't want to produce on their own is great, gouging is bad++

Is the Tilt Topper discontinued? There's probably some people who just got the game who would be interested in a run

Cool thx. To clarify, I am looking for the ring color (the ring around the speaker). Earlier post has a yellow ring. Im debating between that and orange and read your post to say you have orange.

There is no ring around the speaker like an LE.

https://www.pinballlife.com/rgb-led-speaker-light-kit-for-stern-spike-2-machines-copy.html

Well I realize it's probably the principal of the thing but you could probably get those optos in a couple of days from Pinball Life for around $30 shipped. Not the worst thing to eventually have a spare on hand when Stern eventually comes through.

I replaced my PDB due to clicking with one I paid $75 for and I expect Stern to replace my spare.

I hadn't even considered this. I may look. They're one day shipping for me.

I don't think that's the ramp entrance one. It's your ramp entrance that's down correct ?

Correct. Only one I found quickly. I can email them.

I think you want #2 and #3 in the diagram.

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I agree

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Yeah. Since you don't know what side is broken as far as I remember.

The designer should definitely get a tip of a few bucks through thingiverse for anyone printing them for their own use. These are running on my printer now! 20 cents in plastic vs $60. Glad the creator posted his file and thanks for sharing the link!

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I recommend you contact them. I was able to buy one direct for $275 shipped last month after looking at the topper being scalped on pinside for $500+...

Is that the cost to make them? 20 cents in filament? (isn't it like $30/lb)? I guess it depends on the material.... What did you use? What did the printer cost, what about power? Time? Time to setup and cleanup and time to deburr or whatever you have tk do to the piece..?

I think you need a budget printer. Pays for itself quickly printing at home

I was really looking for those answers because I'm curious what the cost really is.

I could print like 40 sets of these things on a single roll of filament @$20 a roll. I think my Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro was $350 maybe. So I could pay off the printer and filament with 6-7 sets @$60 a pop. And then after 5 years, pay for my kids college education.

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Lololololol

I guess it's time for my manufacturing department to get into 3d printing. Lol

Its fun learning to tinker with it. Once you get the hang of that, play around with some 3D modeling and maybe a couple printers to run more jobs. Or just print on demand depending on how much business comes in.

Amen to that. Glad u said it.

Never mind the guys that are profiteering and selling used parts and accessories at new retail prices when they got them at cost because they are a dealer. Or those that are hoarding games and driving up prices. There is so much broken to actually call this a community between owners and sellers, not one to leave cash on the table but because of the slimeballs that chase valuations thru the smoke show behind cloak and daggers.

Nitro has the shooter you're looking for in your ad.

Just got tracking info today for mine

Take some video for us of how it lights up and what else it does, it’s controlled leds so there should be a pattern or something to it

I think it just pulses the yellow leds. I expect it feels really nice in your hand vs the standard shooter handle

It feels much better than the normal one. It has a lot of weight to it. I only have 2 pins and my GZ has the stock one on it and it feels to cheap/light in comparison.

I (and others in this thread) had an issue with the amber shooter where it didn't shoot powerful enough. I had to change my spring to a red spring in order to fix the issue.

In general, I don't comment specifically on how others price items since I don't know their situations, motivations, etc. As some know, I've designed and sell a lot of mods for a variety of games (nearly everything I offer is because at some point a owner asked me to design it). For the most part, I try to set the price as "fair" as I can so that as many people can purchase them as would like and I make a little for my efforts. However, there are a few mods that I really don't like making for one reason or another. Typically, these are items that require more manual effort, additional processing (e.g. painting, gluing, adding lighting, etc.), extra time, additional parts beyond what I can create myself (e.g. hardware, lighting, outsourced materials, etc.) For these items I elevate the price where I think it is worth my time and effort if/when someone does decide to purchase, and as a result I don't sell near as many of the item as I could if I priced more reasonably. Sounds a little counter intuitive, but this is strictly a hobby for me and at times I certainly value my time more than making a few extra bucks here and there.

I know not everybody has the skills or tools to design and make things, but many do. There have been several occasions where I saw an idea where I felt the pricing was out of line, so I basically did my best to copy the design and make my own. In these instances, I typically just make one for myself and that's the end of it (i.e. I don't advertise, sell to others, or even post in the threads that I made one for myself). I will admit in a handful of cases I felt my version was better, different enough, or offered more options to the buyer. In these cases, I typically contact the original designer and offer them my design for them to make or ask if they mind if I sell my version if they don't want to. In some cases they have accepted, but in other cases they reject me altogether (sometimes with fairly colorful and abusive language). Nobody wants their designs to be copied and undercut (has happened several times in my case), so I try my best not to do it to others.

I have had some issues with this. Just got mine and the one-way spinner gate fell off after about 20 plays due to loose/missing screws.

Any ticking from your backbox when you turn it on? My build date was 5/8 and overall construction seems good but I had a bad PDB..

Mine clicks a bit....

Should click once. Mine prior to replacing the PDB ($75 board from PLife...one with the large caps in the video. Excuse the water noises in the background. I forgot to unplug the cat fountain):

A lot of discussion in the Foo Fighters thread. Apparently Stern got a bad batch. The date code below is the only one known to fail. Some of them might be good but all clickers have this date code so far.

It's apparently safe to use but likely will lessen the life span of your power supply if left alone. Someone suggested rated for 100k cycles and I assume each click is a cycle. So maybe mine was likely turning it on 40ish times each morning...

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Woo hoo! Finally got the text from my distro that my JP prem is en route! If anyone else is still waiting, you should hear from your distro soon. I got my ST from the same distro and I got mine late compared to others in the the thread. Wonder if it’s just the order they ship out or I got unlucky.

Congrats man! It's a great game!

I still have the NIB power blades… retail is $350 plus shipping and I will sell them $325 shipped

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^^ just a heads up the effects are pretty much nill if you have ambient room lighting or pin stadiums.

Flipnout Greg says Stern hasn't decided what to do on these yet, but it's "safe to play it", as if I can do that anyway lol

Come on now. My man is offering you a deal of a lifetime at a savings of $25.

And shipping... As we have recently discussed sometimes that wildly higher than necessary. Lol

Compared to other mods on the secondhand market… that is a deal of a lifetime

I’m getting some plays on my JP and I love the game. However I have two issues that I cannot iron out.

1) Raptor Wall. I posted earlier that it would not go down all the way. Got a couple responses to lower the screws underneath and I did adjust the screws. I actually took them too far down. Then back to what I think is proper. However, the wall still does not always go down flush. It does sometimes but probably 75%+ time does not. See first two pics, you can see it does not go flush. Any thoughts? I have not once had a raptor multi ball release properly. It is always stuck.

I believe the underlying issue is not the screws because when I had them down too low, it would still lower to this height most of the time.

2) T-Rex Ramp. See pic #3. I’ve had a ball stuck here 3 or 4 times. Hits the T-Rex, bounces up there and gets stuck. Any thoughts on fix? The plastic seems very short to me but I’m sure there is a reason for that …? Is there something I could put on top to push the ball to the left so it does not stick between that and the wire form?

Thank you

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Can you measure the distance between the ramp cover and wireform (that's where it's stuck, right?) I can check mine tomorrow or this weekend when it's apart again. Make sure the wireform is installed into the tower correctly. Could always take out thr 2 black plastic spacers under the ramp cover I guess? Seems odd though.

Have you tried watching the gate from through the coin door when in test mode? You can hold down the safety switch so you can leave the door open. Just keep you hands and feet out of the vehicle until you release it. Is it moving freely?

Regarding the stuck ball. That's really bizarre.

Maybe lower the flipper strength a bit?
Are there any raised inserts in the area that create air balls? (Unlikely but worth checking).

Most likely the wireform just needs to be removed and bent upwards a bit. If that makes you nervous you could always add a washer or two under each attach point (starting near the top and working your way down) to see if it stops. Don't go to crazy or you might create other issues.