Really? Lol I think mine might be the glass as well, but the glass is tight+. Where did you find the tape necessary? (this is the 2nd pinball thing someone suggested using tape on today. Lol)

Just some on the lower 8" on each edge left and right.

can you explain how to do it?
it's just to put the movie code in another card , and then when i play i just switch cards?

Sold…

SOLD!

Parts - For Sale

7x Stern Spike 1 & 2 LED Boards 520-5307-00 Archived

Used, good condition - “SOLD… Selling seven OEM white LED boards removed from a new Stern machine. Used in many Spike & Spike 2 machines. They all work properly. I decided to use a different light...”

2023-05-21

Tucson, AZ

EEE

20 (Firm)

Archived after: 1 day

Viewed: 36 times

Status: Sold (amount private)

If anyone is interested in anything let me know

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/157666

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Sending pm

So I've got 35 games on my new JPP and I have only made the cross shot to the "hut" or "guard tower" once the rest just rattle around and it seems like something might be misadjusted. Is that a known thing?

First thing I’d check is take the glass off and hold the ball in your hand. Slide the ball along the ball guide leading into the Raptor Tower. See if the ball is making any contact with the screws there.

If the screws aren’t the issue, then check that you have correct alignment on the flipper and try adjusting flipper power until you dial the shot in.

Assuming you’re level side to side also.

Level is spot on, and the flipper power is all the way up where factory default is at 255.here are some pics of the screws at the bottom and of my upper right flipper.

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That ramp is far from flush with the playfield

I agree with this. The screws are tight. I checked them and it doesn't get rejected there it goes 2/3 up and around and then falls back down.

If you can get it level easily that’d be a better path. If not, Cliffy has you covered.

Passionforpinball.com

http://www.passionforpinball.com/JP3-ST/jp3-cf-flaps-hedstrom1.jpg

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I'm not sure what I'd do to get it any more level. Here is a video of how it fails.

I removed the flap and massaged it a bit and that's as good as I'm gonna get it. Thoughts?

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Little more "massaging" and this is about as good as I can get it.

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Is that flipper alignment ok? That shot still falls back down 70%

That alignment looks good to me.

Alrighty. I guess it's just gonna be what it's gonna be, feels like it's inside the top back somewhere looking at how it falls back down but shrug.
Appreciate the help folks.

Assuming that you can push the ball through the ramp cleanly, then check if there is a coil strength setting for the upper flipper.

Adjusting flipper power down can sometimes be helpful too. I have my upper flipper at 243.

But as EEE noted that ramp flap looks raised up a bit and could be causing a problem

When you roll the ball onto it, it seems smooth, that flattens right out and I tried it without the flap and still had zero success with 9 fall backs in a row. I give.

For reference here is a pic of mine. I did change the left entrance screw even though it didn’t seem to ever affect the ball.

It appears that yours is set further back than mine. I see a black line and no artwork at the leading edge of your ramp.

If you’re ***comfortable*** with a drill around a pinball playfield perhaps you can move yours forward towards the flipper and reset the screws.

But if I were in your shoes I would buy the Cliffy.

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My settings. Trough eject 150, upper flip 230, right flip 220, left flip 240. Works for me but you know...each machine is different.

Don't start drilling anything you have a newer run than this picture where the art was removed from so the guide rails so they don't dig into the playfield witch was common on this game. The problem is definitely the flap. It needs to be completely flush. Either have Stern send you a new one that's not warped or reach out to Cliffy like a previous poster said.

Seems like they would have used flatter screws as well. I have a piece of plastic that was damaged in transit with a loose screw scratching it all up, I had been in dialog with flipnout about that, I just added the ramp flap to my request they are helping with, hopefully they can get this worked out. I also reached out to Cliffy for those CF pieces.

Looks like they have made some other small changes as well, the escape narnia or whatever that was so blinding is dim and yellow on mine and the post that cliffy makes a cf base for is already shimmed up and has that issue solved it appears (just glancing at older photos).

Use a piece of mylar to bridge the ramp flap. That’s what I did. Worked perfectly and cost about five cents (assuming you have a scrap of mylar).

I just finished looking for some CF strips I used to have, and some cf tape and some mylar, I have zero of anything that I can find tonight. I'll revisit tomorrow I guess.

That's as complicated as it is, yes. It'll likely install/check the node board code but that's normal with any different software and the start up boot check.

It looks like your habitrail legs are below the top of the ramp. They need to be on top.

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Can you explain this or show more clearly what you mean?

Here is what I have mod wise left for JP

Stern factory topper- $1k obo
Tilt Toppers JP topper- $1k obo
JP power inside art blades- $350 obo
Stern shooter rod- $200 obo
**SOLD**Yoyokopter moving T-Rex- $250
**SOLD**3 Fossil cover signs- $75
Raptor Pen- $50 obo
Flying Pteranodon- $60 obo
JP speaker acrylics- $22 obo
Spinning helicopter mod- $40 obo
**SOLD**Barbasol Can- $45
**SOLD**3 standing direction signs- $90
**SOLD**Raptor and foliage- $50
External volume controller- $36 obo

Bundle and save

I may understand what you mean, this is the same thing I kept trying to figure out last night because it seems like that's where it fails but I want to be sure.

?

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See how your two legs of the habitrail are below the upper part of the loop. They should be on top of the ramp. Take your wire form off and reinstall.

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I looked at that for an hour and I don't see how they can fit above on mine. I will take it all off and see... That's exactly where I thought the issue was all along. Thanks!

Solved! Without your picture I couldn't see where those top 2 legs could even go, here it is now. And compared to before. Thank you so much.

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So I am learning the rules and back to playing this game. Haven’t broke a Bil yet

Is the count down always for the control room?

Thanks in advance.

3.5x markup on a Tilt Topper....? That was $275 direct from Tilt last month.

can someone take a picture of how the raptor is supposed to be on the premium? mine has been half laying down since i got it and i cant find a picture on how it attaches or moves

It should be standing up, weights at the back below the tail. I can take my glass off and get you more info if this doesn't help. There are 2 screws holding the base and it pivots back and forth. Mine has the tail hitting the wireform when it pivots but it doesn't seem to matter.

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If I recall correctly, someone mentioned making sure the coin door is closed during the first boot after a card swap, something about the nodes needing full power to properly upgrade/downgrade. Not sure if it risks bricking or just not actually switching until you do so.

Mine does the same. Haven't gotten around to messing with it

I know someone linked this dino pack as a base for some mods. This has a nice looking raptor in the pack.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07V2TC7SP/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_1

There's also a file posted on here to print yourself a little hip bumper for the right hip to make it stand upright. Mine was rubbing on the side and getting caught so it wouldn't fall back down. I installed the hip spacer and now it works great. Was much easier than the heat method.

Thought I would share Stern's feedback on this problem:

Good afternoon. Engineering asked if you could remove the spacers holding the ramp cover onto the ramp and putting the cover directly over ramp and test the game out. They are thinking the ramp is jumping over the opto and by placing the cover direct over the ramp, It will keep the ball flat on the ramp.

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Is there an all-in-one solution to change out the speakers to the LE setup with the larger speakers and yellow surrounds?

I have everything, except for the 5.25" speakers available at:

http://www.speakerlightkits.com/5.25-SPIKE-2-Speaker-Plates.html

Besides not knowing where to get 5.25" speakers at a wholesale price, I also don't know much about speakers and believe many people like to select their own brand. Many go for the Kenwood KFC-1366s that the LE games come with,

ebay.com link: itm

but many others prefer something different.

The yellow surround color is a nice pick for Jurassic Park Premium.

Doug (SpeakerLightKits.com)

UPDATE: I just noticed you didn't mention wanting speaker lights....and speaker lights is what I do.

Do you offer color surrounds for pro/prem without the lighting?