Seen this on other Stern LCD games...question: Do you have the Insider connected kit installed?

The other games I've seen this on are Star Wars, Mandalorian, JP...all with new(er) code, all without IC installed. None of my games with the new code with IC have done this...(yet).

Really wanted to add some trees to the playfield so finally after a few hours I have them installed! Really fills in the playfield and looks fantastic.

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No. No insider connected kit

Another data point. It is beginning to look like a bug present in the new(er) code for games that do not have IC kit installed. Strange I haven't seen more about this here on Pinside. Luckily, all my games either have IC kit or have older code. I have not seen this problem on any of my games (JP, older code, Godzilla with IC, DP with IC, AIQ with IC). I would try rolling back the code, or better yet...get an IC kit?

First time rejoining a club! This has been the only game I missed enough to seek it out for round two…so I’m back!

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To those who have upgraded to 5.25" speakers and the light kit...are there any reasons why I should go with speaklightkits.com and their kit for $100 (doesn't include the speakers) over the kit sold by pinball life for the same price (and includes the speakers)?

Those look really good, where did you find them and how did you install them? Did you drill holes in the plastics and use a screw?

Thank you,

See post #6985

Hi everybody, if you need some mods for the JP don't hesitate we produce 9 mods for this machine

1. DILOPHOSAURUS,
2. ANKYLOSAURUS,
3. TRICERATOPS,
4. VELOCIRAPTOR,
5. NEDRY'S COMPUTER,
6. MOSQUITOS INSERTS,
7. PTERANODON,
8. EASTDOCK SIGN,
9. HELICOPTER BLADES

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1338-pino-pinball-mods-shop/by-game/2790-jurassic-park-stern
Have a nice day.
Lionel.

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While were on the topic of mods, here's one other mod to consider, New Flippers from Precision Pinball Products!

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1341-precision-pinball-prod/06654-precision-flip-flipper-system

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Thank you. Basically, you're almost spot on with your assumption of how I pulled it off. Bought plastic trees off Amazon, drilled holes in bottom of trees, cut appropriate length aluminum 18 gauge wiring. Use super glue to hold wiring into base of tree. For the extra wiring that hangs out of the tree, I maneuvered it into a circle then flattened it with a pliers. Waa-laa. Presto. A tree to attach under a nut or screw on the playfield. It's a futsy process, but worth it.

Products used:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B092YMZK6Z

https://www.homedepot.com/p/OOK-50-ft-10-lb-18-Gauge-Aluminum-Hobby-Wire-50176/100192917

Premium/LE specific question:
Wondering if any knows the life expectancy of the Trex and raptor gate motors?
If these go awry in the future can they be repaired individually or might a replacement motors be needed?

I’m planning on keeping this thing and am new to pinball ownership this year so am not familiar.

Thanks for considerate responses.

The first thing I do before I buy a new pin is to add to my games list at Marcos. Then I can list all of the parts Marcos has for that specific game. Then you can tell general availability of spare parts from the online shops. This applies to old and new games. Warranty and relationship with your distro will only get you so far down the road if you plan on keeping it for the long haul.

I would expect the motors in JP to have a similar life expectancy as any other pinball machine - I have plenty of 90's games with their original motors, but that's not to say one won't fail. I originally bought lots of spares for my B/W machines but (touch wood) haven't used any of them - excluding standard maintenance items such as flipper rebuild kits, coil sleeves, balls etc. If a motor does fail, then you replace it but I've not heard of anyone having a motor issue on this thread; that said a few people have had issues with one of the motor controller boards.

Not sure if the armor kits are still hard to come by, but some are up on ebay...

ebay.com link: itm

Looking at buying one of the mosquito amber shooter rods and it appears to be lit. Will it come with a splitter for the power source or will I need to buy one? I have a topper connected currently.

Thanks

If it’s the official Stern one it comes with everything you need. It connects to the same board as the shaker on the inside left of the coin box area.

No splitter needed. It connects to the PCB that is on the front left side of the cabinet.

I have a topper, led light kit, amber shooter rod, and LED flipper buttons and haven't had to use any splitters or anything.

Awesome! Thanks guys.

Alright I give up. Do I need a soldering kit to move the adapters from the stock speakers to the 5.25” Kenwoods in order to connect them?

Gray wiring is what came with the Kenwoods

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De-solder the red/black wires from the old speaker. Solder onto new speaker. Red on +. Yes you will need a soldering iron but for just this I'd get a cheapo. Don't use a cheapo iron on boards though.

Or just clip them and crimp on a spade connector just like the ones on the end of the grey wires if you don't want to mess with soldering anything.

Ended up going with the soldering route and everything working A-okay (surprisingly quite honestly). Thank you for the advice. These new lights are fantastic. Don't think I notice a difference in the speakers from stock to 5.25 Kenwoods but that's okay. Cleaned the flippers and playfield, then waxed the playfield. Buttery smooth shots once again.

The official Stern amber shooter rod has two LEDs that are computer controlled. They fade and flash and a few other animations related to the gameplay itself. Get the official and plug it in directly to the cabinaet node board. (Refer to may diagram for the background)

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We’ve had this issue too since updating our code to the latest. No IC installed. Think we will roll back to the previous version.

I made some JP shooter rods. These are meant to simply replace the standard shooter. I cast an actual crane fly in resin in the middle of three amber layers. The casting was the hardest part of the process as the crane fly sometimes had small bubbles near his body or floated toward one of the edges.

After casting, I mounted a brass fitting in the resin and screwed in the threaded blank shooter rod from Pinball Life to ensure the proper length. I wanted to make sure they provided the proper full plunge.

I then lathed them into a very nice plunger shape, which happens to be a bit larger than the official JP plunger. They were then sanded with 225, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, 3000 and then polished to a high gloss finish.

I ended up with 7 shooter rods. 4 of which I would consider very nice. There are three that I would consider seconds. The shooter itself looks great and has great feel, but the crane fly cast is not perfect.

Anyone interested can PM me before I list them in a Pinside ad. I posted some more detailed pictures in the JP Prem/LE owners thread...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/176#post-7119648

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Ive had my JP premium about 2 years now and love it, but lately it seems the Trex isnt doing a great job at grabbing the ball. It used to be fine, but now I have to hit the shot twice or more to get the trex shot to register. Or sometimes it registers but doesnt grab. What are the common things that lead to this? I believe I have the magnet turned all the way up

Is the optos in the mouth and the ramp entrance working fully - check for loose/poor solder joints that could cause an inconsistent connection. The solder joints in T-Rex have been issues for people in the past and some have had damaged wires within the T-Rex mech from movement back & forth. First thing I'd do is go into switch test mode and check the opto in the mouth is consistently registering - if this is the issue people have found it easiest to fully remove T-Rex and disassemble on the workbench to repair it.

I bought a red spring to put in my GZ but the red spring is way too powerful for GZ. I love it in my JP though.

Anyone interested in it shoot me a PM. I'm also probably going to try and get a clear pop bumper for my GZ UFO mod so if anyone has one of those they want to get rid of, I'd do a straight up trade.

PM me if interested in either.

Just wanted to add another alternative to the Stern Plunger ball auto and manual alignment issues. For my Jurassic Park Pro NIB, I had around 70% success rate of balls making the turn around from the auto plunger and had to finesse shooting techniques to get better success from the manual plunger. The auto plunger is at factory power.
Taking a close look at the auto plunger striker, it appeared to be at an angle that would shoot the ball to the left. The mount for the striker is pinned to the bottom of the playing field, so loosening the mount bolts in an attempt to bias the mount one way or another will not work.
I installed a metal washer between the lower left corner of the auto plunger mount and the bottom of the playing field.
This caused the striker to move left which results in the force moving the ball more to the right when hit by the striker.
The new position of the striker also locates the ball slightly right in position for the manual plunger.
In diagnostic mode, I tested the auto plunger 50 cycles with zero fails of making the turn around.
During an hour of play, letting the ball drain frequently and utilizing the manual plunger many times, I also experienced zero fails of making the turn around.
Hope this provides a solution to anyone experiencing plunger ball travel issues and also if the nylon washer under the left metal shooter ball guide did not resolve this issue.

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Does anyone know what the last build run was on the premium?

Mine was May 30th 2022. I think they may have made some more the following week(s).

Ok, thank you. Any ideas or do you know what fixes (if any) Stern has made to the machine since it started production?

The biggest change from the first run was the art was removed from the areas closest to the posts because the original playfields were chipping and pooling. That change was done early on. More recently it seems, the art (in particular the map) looks a bit washed out / less vibrant. These original playfields definitely look the best, but the chipping is a real risk.

Insider connect added in 2022 builds (and right apron artwork removed).

There may be more changes that others can comment on.

My build is May 18, 2022 and I was surprised that they still haven't fixed the opto issues with fast shots through the t-rex ramp or 'O' shot. Requires user tweaking...

I've noticed this (with the O shot) and so am curious—what tweaking will make the opto register fast shots through there?

Thanks for the information. I am thinking about trading my Iron Maiden for one of these.

I hadn't played my JP in a couple weeks since my GZ is only a month old so I've been playing the new toy more often, but decided to play some JP over the weekend.

And holy shit I was so quickly reminded just how god damn hard JP is. It's just so damn punishing and the god damn out lanes are like magnets. It's just unreal how much shorter my games in JP are compared to GZ. JP is just one damn punishing and hard game lol. I thought playing another pin for a while would maybe make me better at JP just since I had some more experience, but nope!

You should try SW. Humbling experience after GZ.

There is a quick/easy fix using electrical tape... https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/150#post-6355564

Or a more permanent fix that involves adding some washers under the playfield (not hard to do)... https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/69#post-5337568

Thanks to hd60609 I got to add an amber shooting rod to my Premium. The piece is not without bubbles, but I actually prefer it that way as it seems a bit more authentic to me for whatever reason. I could be way off on that claim. Well spent $39 ($48 after shipping).

I added a pteranodon above the right ramp. Love the amount of detail on these Papo figures. Thank you to those that posted their DIYs.

Also made the switch from standard to 5.5” Kenwood speakers with the Type 13 SpeakerLightKit. Love the way these look, especially with only the white lights on with the yellow rings (yes, another set up with yellow rings). Reminds me of the Jeep Wrangler headlights.

I think that will be it as far as modifications for a while. I have a goat figure I ordered waiting to be added but I think I’ll wait on that for a bit. Thank you all for the inspiration.

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I have always prided myself in keeping my games difficulty at factory default and the outlanes in the middle setting as they come.
But JP outlanes set in the middle hole have a HUGE gap, so much bigger than other pins I own and have owned in the past.
One quick hit from the sling can send the ball down the outlane so fast that even with a warning inducing nudge the ball doesn't touch the sides.

I decided to install a couple of Post Genies like another member posted here earlier. https://www.pinballlife.com/avengers-infinity-quest-outlane-post-mod.html

They tame down the outlanes to somewhere closer to normal difficulty and to me make the game more enjoyable and less of a ripped off punnish fest.
My top 4 high score were over 1bill before but I wasn't progressing through the code as much as I wanted. Now my top is 1.6bill and I'm sooo close to getting to the Visitors Centre I can smell it

purbeast just out of interest, could you measure the outlane gaps on GZ compared to JP? (I measured and compared to my Pin-Bot and JP outlanes were HUGE incomarison, and people often say Pin-bot outlanes are brutal, although after practice I find them controlable. I know there is more to it than the gap)

Anyone have the exact dimensions of the Stern JP translite?

I ordered an alternative translite that I believe is too large. I’m currently out of town (away from my machine also, sadly) so can’t measure myself.

Thank you!

Updated: https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Backglass_Sizes

Next time I have the glass off I'll measure. I moved both of my posts in both games to be the shortest gap possible, but even before I did it on GZ it still didn't drain nearly as much as my JP did.

Only problem with those other posts is then I'd need to buy more rubbers lol. And damnit, the one on the right side was a BITCH to move.

Comes with rubber, description from website below. Yeah they are a PITA to install because of the tight work area, but so worth the effort IMO.

"Are your Stern pinball machine outlanes too open for you? Try making them smaller with this simple post mod.
Includes a machine screw, 2 washers, a locknut, a 5/16" black rubber ring, a clear star post and a clear silicone protector to keep your playfield art from getting damaged.
This mod works on most (but not all) Stern pinball machines.
Sold individually. If you plan on putting this kit on both the left and right side of your playfield you will need to add 2 Outlane Post Genies to your order."

This may have been addressed in this thread several times already but do the screw heads for the raptor tower ramp get in the way some for that shot? I have been putting more time on JP and it seems like that has maybe caused an issue with that shot a few times. I am looking to order my second machine at the beginning of next year and it is currently down between JP and Godzilla. Have they made any adjustments on the types of screws used in more recent runs of the machine or is this not a normal issue?

It’s an easy fix that many owners do. Grinding or swapping the left screw takes 3 minutes. You can check if an issue by pulling the glass and then rolling the ball by hand past the screw and if it contacts it, then do the fix.

25-7/8" x 16-1/2" (657mm x 419mm)