The release notes are pretty good at showing new features version by version, which have been few and far between for the last two years. I would say that the July2020 Version 1.02 was the last real feature release of significance. (The rest are tiny updates to fix coin chutes and add IC features)

https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/Jurassic_Park-1_06_0-README_PRO.txt

Lift the playfield and make sure the lights are under the inserts. A lot of times they shift in shipping.

I bought extra art blades by mistake, If anybody wants them it's 75 shipped in the US.

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Hello guys,

Tomorrow is the big day! I am going to pickup up my brand new JP Premium. Really excited to join the club!!
What are you MUST have mods for this game?
I am already planning to add a shaker, a subwoofer, the mosquito plunger, and also give a try to the custom rom in the next weeks.
Also I will add a mylar at the shooter lane and reduce the Through coil at the minimum playable before starting game #1.
Will try to read the most of pages I can, but if there are any advise or things to adjust/protect before playing, do not hesitate to let me know please.

Thanks

Congrats!

That list of things to do looks good, probably the only thing I'd add would be to check the ball doesn't catch the screw heads used on the Tower and Heli ramp flaps

Couple playfield spots to think about protecting

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/66#post-5328991

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/160#post-6458941

I did your suggestions when you posted it thanks it saved my game i just wanted to chime in because if he ordered new this shouldn't be necessary I just played a brand new JP and DP on location and the art was completely pulled away now from all those guides, like the entire length now not just around the posts. Gona save the new owners alot of time i think I installed over 20 fiber and nylon washers on each of those games!

Pulling the art back from the posts helps prevent the clear coat from pooling around posts which can lead to chipping. This is a different issue.

The ends of the ball guides resting directly on the clear coat can start to dig into and scrape the clear coat like a knife edge whenever they’re hit by the ball. Lifting the ends of the guides off the clear coat prevents that scraping.

I have some chipping around my upper flipper post, art removed. Ive been wondering whether I can just put a bit of Mylar over it or if I should attempt to repair the clear first, which I have no experience of doing.

Correct definitely still a chance for damage but I'll tell ya looking at those games I'm not sure there was enough or any clear for that matter to cause a problem we gota get back to the drawing board here but that's another discussion. The games that were a year old all had raised and or ghosted inserts doesn't bode well..

There was still chance for damage. Doesn't matter how thick the clear is, if the end of the guide is resting on it then it can scrape whatever amount is there.
The good news is that it seems like Stern has been making a good effort at trying to reduce this. Both AIQ and GZ have most of the ball guide ends lifted off the playfield.

Most likely that's due to the post coming a bit loose. When that happens ball strikes on the post push the post against the edge of the hole the post is in and can chip it. If you're just looking to repair the clear, I had a small chip on my POTC and used a bit of Minwax Polycrylic (clear gloss) on it. Worked great. Just used a small amount to fill in the crack. Then polished it using Novus. If you get a little too much on there then you could use super fine grit sandpaper just on that spot to smooth it out just a bit if necessary and then polish with the Novus.

I believe clear topcoat used for fingernail polish can also be used the same as the Minwax. When I did mine I tested both on a bare piece of wood and thought the Minwax was a bit clearer so I used that instead.

Yeah these weren't even on the playfield like ours were and with removed art it's literally the least of my worries when looking at these playfields. I'm not scared enough to cancel my Godzilla but I never thought I would be contemplating a fricken playfield protector on a brand new game but I'm telling ya it was a bad scene. I would probably still do your method by sliding the fiber washer if one is close but not what I did removing everything to put nylon washers down on my DP before I seen your post that wasn't fun.

Also, there's a lot of good information and advice on playfield repair in this thread:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration#post-547648

I'm going to be doing another run of flipper toppers that I did a while ago. They won't be made until the weekend of September 3rd so I can get as much interest as possible and knock it all out in one go since they're very time-consuming for me to make, especially ala carte.

Please send me a DM if you want to order a pair - ever since the shop swapped to Stripe, I haven't been able to get it to work.

$45 F&F - $47 G&S shipped within the U.S.
$50 F&F - $52 G&S international

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Hey!

Long time reader of pinside, first time poster.

I'm a proud new owner of a JP Premium pinball.

Everything looks good except one target and I would like your opinion.
The target near the left orbit appear off-center and could cause issues.

It's normal?
If not, how can I center it?

20220812_121304 (resized).jpg

Mine looks similar. It's annoying and I suspect the edge of the ball guide will eat pinballs over time. I loosened the screws that hold the switch to the bottom of the playfield and was able to adjust it a little bit, but not to my satisfaction. It's on my list of back burner projects to remove and recenter but I'm worried about having enough wood or blowing out the existing holes. Maybe someone else has the solution.

Is that what causes rejects sometimes? Are there replacement screws?

Not everyone’s game is affected, there’s not a lot of tolerance in the clearance -so you need to check if this is potentially causing your ejects. Some people have found suitable replacement screws, others have simply ground part of the head down, others have removed the screw (leaving the other one holding the flap down), while others have removed the flap entirely replacing it with Cliffy’s adhesive carbon fibre version. You’ll find posts about each of these if you want more info by searching the thread (I’m on my phone atm so bit harder for me to find the various posts)

The simplest resolution mentioned elsewhere (without buying anything and keeping the flap fastened down) is as follows:
1.Mark the existing screw head with a sharpie pen, a dot where it faces in and towards the ball and contacts with it.
2. Carefully remove the screw and with a file or grinder, shave the screw head down, on the dot.
3. Carefully replace the screw into the existing screw threads, slowly and when it’s nearly tight, carefully align the shave down area inward to the ball contact area. Stop tightening.

Hello, thanks for your suggestion. I've checked yesterday both entries and indeed, on the tower shot, the left screw head is a little on the way. Means that if the ball follow the left guide, then it will slightly roll over the left head screw.
I tried to adjust the left guide but no success. I don't see any possible solutions except removing the screw or ignore this and play like that.
Any additional info will be appreciated if there is a solution. Thanks

Update : I've just seen the previous messages that gives more details on this, so I have my answers thanks

Looking at the stern production thread. Don’t see JP premiums. Being run anytime soon?

They ran them recently.

Hello, I've opened my NIB box yesterday, everything is now adjusted and plays great.
I am just a little confused about the playfield colorimetry. It looks really faded if I compared to my Avengers AIQ and Mando games, and also if I compare with all JP playfield pictures I can find from Stern or Pinside community. My game is from July 14, 2022.

Also my friend did a quick montage comparing Community pic vs Stern pic vs mine.

What do you think?
Any other feedback from new owners (same batch)?
IMG-20220814-WA0006 (resized).jpegIMG-20220814-WA0008 (resized).jpg

ChrisLIX I'm not a new owner, my game was made Oct 2019 and the playfield looks more like the photo in the middle. The image on the right looks like that playfield is lighter in color than the other two for certain. Hope this helps.

The lighting in the pic also doesn't help. You can see the rubbers on the flippers also look faded in the right picture compared to the others.

Rubber are like this in real too, looks old school lol

As purbeast pointed out lighting can make a difference, it almost looks like the camera flash was on? It may have washed out the image some perhaps?

No flash, it s the ceiling light that we see. I'll redo a pic of Mando, Aiq and JP side by side to give a best idea.

Is your glass on in the pics too? That can reflect the lighting quite a bit too.

And about the rubbers, those aren't stock so they have to be some aftermarket brand, and those happening to be washed out as well seems a bit odd lol.

EDIT:

Unless you have pink rubbers on the flippers cause they almost look pink. I was assuming they were orange.

Captive ball post snapped in half on location....

My recent NIB JP prem’s “red” flipper rubber also looked like that washed out pink. I replaced them immediately with red Titans

Edit: Does anyone have picks of JP with orange Titan silicone flipper rubbers? The red is a bit too dark and IMO clashes with the playfield.

Edit 2: Never mind, I should've literally scrolled up a couple posts.

As others mentioned, you need a picture with even lighting over the entire playfield with the glass off to know if it's a washed out playfield or overexposure. And try to get more of the plastics in the shot since we'll know how saturated the playfield should look compared to them.

I can say that my recently run premium does not have a washed out playfield, but interestingly the green at the southern end of the island (near the flippers) looks intentionally lighter than the green at the northern end, i.e. it has more contrasting light/dark green color than the left and center images you're referencing. Overall, my JP playfield color looks just as dark/saturated as my Mando, give or take the different art styles.

I updated our pro at work with the new code (1.06?) and it has had multiple software crashes in a couple weeks since. It has like 15,000 plays and never crashed before the new code.

Is this a known issue? Do I wait for an update? Can I go back to old code? Did I screw up the install somehow?

Any help would be much appreciated!

Don’t think this is a widespread issue. Think the standard suggestion here would be to either flash a new sd card as it’s easy and cheap to try or just try the code update again on existing sd. If doing through a usb select the verified code update

Here's some Titan competition silicone

Screenshot_20220816-161347_Photos (resized).jpg

FYI - the mission chopper is available on eBay for a decent price (looks like there are multiples). It's not my listing - I just wanted to post the info as I don't see them come up often.

ebay.com link: itm

Spotted this today

85A07CB3-3987-41EB-984E-8129E6820D81 (resized).jpeg

I don’t suppose this would be suitable for waxing purposes on the playfield?

6F5CD744-D62A-44D7-AF2A-6CF243BF4B9A (resized).jpeg

I had a left figure if anyone is interested . Pm me.

E1C0ACE7-1770-4EFC-8A12-EEE89630E1E7 (resized).jpeg

I use maguires paste wax and highly recommend but can’t vouch for the “plus”. Does the plus mean silicone? If silicone is part of the plus then I’d pass.

Just want to say I opted to waste time watching Jurassic World Dominion last night and it is one of the worst movies I have ever watched in full. I nearly cut it off after like 45 minutes but was like "I have to see how bad this gets" and boy did it deliver. There were more dinosaurs in the first 10 minutes or so than the entire first 2 movies combined. There is nothing scary about dinosaurs anymore in this franchise. The best part of the movie by far was Jeff Goldblum's character poking fun at the JW franchise multiple times.

If you are a JP fan, and haven't seen this, don't waste your time. If you do, I warned you!

i watched it last night and im going to have to agree. def. the worst out of them all.

Unless you watch them as what they are - dinosaur movies for tweens. Then they’re all pretty good. Nothing I would watch on my own as an adult, but a fun diversion in the company of a ten to twelve year old kid.

They aren't even really dinosaur movies anymore.

It's like what happened to Fast and Furious. They used to be about the cars but now it's about everyone being a special agent action stars which happen to be around fancy cars.

Same exact thing with Jurassic Park. It used to be about dinosaurs but now it's about special agent action stars who happen to be around dinosaurs.

Ive had 2 lockups/rests in the last day, where Ive never had any before. Ive had the game freeze upon hitting the left ramp skillshot when starting a game after another completes. The screen freezes, flippers still work for a second or so and then the game locks up and restarts. This occurred twice for me yesterday in about 30 games. Ive not had it happen before, running the latest code (released last week)