My daughter painted my T Rex last night. I just love it. If anyone else wants theirs done LMK. Such a huge improvement. Last picture stock.

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Mylar?

I changed setting #301 to "more goats" and I still can't see any goats, do I just need to play better?

It doesn't show more goats. You HEAR more goats and also some callouts change and replace words like "employees" with "goats" and such. Example:
There are more goats to save!" and "A goat is in danger!" etc

It's random though and doesn't swap the callouts all the time. Also if you have the custom code installed then you won't hear any of it since those funny callouts have been replaced with whatever the author chose.

If you don't know what it is, you can get it here and cut pieces as you like
https://www.pinballlife.com/3-mil-clear-mylar-by-the-foot.html

If you're asking why, it's to hold down the flap to the playfield and transition as the screws holding it down previously are removed now.

I’m still trying to actually make smart missile shot…

More goats mode also shows goats getting caged in each of the Paddock end scenes instead of the named dinosaur.

Got it, so you’re dumping a few screws to make handful of shots more makable and the Mylar holds things in place

Cliffy also makes these awesome ramp entrance flaps. I’ve had no issues with rejects while using these, love his products.

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Yep and honestly I really think this approach is worth considering. The screws are so out of place for these tight entrances, the amount of rejects, slowed shots, and ball knicks must be pretty high. I'm surprised they didn't go with counter-sunk holes and flathead screws, so this is the easiest option.

Just did this. Infinitely better!

Ok…I give up

When you hear “extra ball is lit” where do you collect it?

I have collected it…but I’m not sure how I did!? I don’t see an “extra ball” insert that is lit…

Pteranodon - right ramp. The amber light on top of the sign will tell you EB is ready.

Ha! Very obvious now. Thank you!

Ahhh, yes I have the Awesome custom code so no extra goats for me, small price to pay

Dumb question - I’ve always wanted a premium but I’m worried about the Trex. The Trex is basically the main draw for me and I played a premium on location where the trex was broken. The game just didn’t feel whole but I’m worried if I got a premium and the trex broke, it would just totally suck for me. I’m considering a pro just to not have to ever worry about paying for the trex and then not having it if/when it breaks. Someone tell me I’m worrying too much lol…

The pinball hobby means learning to repair and maintain games. If you own a pinball, it will eventually require mechanical repair and maintainence. Any pinball.

The T. rex mech is fairly simple by pinball standards. If you enjoy that feature, then purchase the premium.

Games on location are often neglected and abused, I wouldn’t base your buying decision from that. Get the game you want. There’s plenty of people here to help if your t-rex ever has issues plus a ton of posts on how to address issues.

I didn't catch that there are two threads for JP so I'm posting this here as well.

New to the JP Premium club this week (second pin for the house). Machine seems to work as advertised (I'm reviewing the key posts this weekend) so hopefully it stays this way.

One question on the T-Rex multi-ball when the T-Rex head moves back and forth and drops the ball, is it suppose to be dropped randomly or put somewhere specific? The other T-Rex modes, it places it on the wireform from the ramp with no problem.

I'll try and keep the n00b questions to a minimum but please forgive me if I ask something that has been answered 10 times already.

-AJB

A bit of both. It’ll randomly choose to drop the ball on the wire form or just toss the ball somewhere on the playfield.

There's a setting to prevent the T-Rex from throwing the ball. FYI.

Ok, thanks! Just wanted to make sure it was by design.

I don't think it's completely random.

Specific T-Rex modes always go to the ramp (T-Rex mb). Others will toss it (Rampage).

Out with the old.

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In with the new.

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Installed the Jada jeep facing the player following a suggestion by someone here

Can you post a picture of the applied mylar? Thank you

Just heard a new callout after end of game.
Simply, "Thanks dad".

Can't place the voice...

Best I can get at the moment but literally it’s just enough to hold the fork of the flap down.

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Where did you buy it? Looks cool.

If you want your T Rex head painted by my daughter let me know. $175 and that includes return shipping in the continental USA. Will be clearcoated in matte clearcoat. Just send the T Rex minus the mechanism. Not difficult to remove.

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Amazon or Ebay. Can't quite remember exactly. Still commonly available as far as I know.

Can I ask why people are doing this? Since the ball does not make contact with the screw heads I can’t see the benefit here. I just checked mine and even with the screw being a bit loose from the factory they still did not make ball contact as designed.

Same here. But on some machines it's said, the screws are touching the balls. And if not, the original flaps can take a little bit of momentum of the balls. That said, I left it original. If the ball doesn't make it's way, my shoot wasn't good enough...

The screws are absolutely making contact with the balls, all you need to do is take video and slow it down, or try the fix yourself to see. Look at any older Stern games or Bally Williams ramp flaps to see they are flush for a reason.
I’m all for punishing gameplay, but this is down to screws and not shots. To each their own, but I hope people are changing their balls often.

There must be an assembly or CNC drilling variance. I had a Aug2020 JP prem and the screw hit the ball. I then got a June2021 JP-Premium and the screw does not! It's just a variance in assembly of the flap and ball guides.

My screws were definitely contacting the balls. Removing them and using mylar has made those s shots way more makeable and smooth. I was getting clunky rejections 7 out of ten shots. Now most shots sail through.

Yes I’ve never had an issue on my LE with the tower and heli ramp flap screws. Any rejects I have (which are rare) are from me mishitting the ball and obvious before making it to the ramp. But it seems there is enough variation in the assembling of the PF and a very small tolerance that it can cause an issue on some games.

To be honest the rivets on the left T-Rex ramp flap (particularly the right rivet) are more of a concern on my game. I’ve previously posted about these but haven’t seen anyone else mention them.

Had a great first ball ...

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I was quite surprised at the score, as I hadn't done much other than a very long Chaos MB yet I'd only scored 135M for it.

I had achieved:
1 completed paddock
1 dino captured
5 rescues
3 DNA combos
0 control rooms
0 T-Rex events (lost the ball when building the jackpot value prior to T-Rex MB)
I did hit the smart missile during Chaos MB and got Super Supply Drop
Collected Spinosaurus fossil for Chaos Hurry-Up Super Jackpot

so where had my score come from ... Amber Targets and also Amber slings

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Interesting and that aligns with me as my build is July 2020 Premium. Maybe they changed the screw type or the drilling as you say.

Ok… I made an adjustment and now my t-Rex is off center on the left ramp and won’t collect my ball! What did I do and how do I fix it?!?!?!

It may depend on how the flap was installed at the factory. Mine is slightly off center to the right/up the playfield relative to the art, and my ball just grazes the screw head.

My guess is that if everything was installed exactly where intended by Keith - the flap, the ramp, the ball guide - then the ball will just barely miss the flap. Unfortunately, the margin for human error is bigger than Keith’s precise designs, so some pins may have this issue and others won’t.

Have you gone into tests for the TRex yet? First thing it should do is home it again. From there you can cycle through and make sure it hits all the positions (horizontally and vertically).

I get the human error part but I've been working on games for 25 years and never seen this issue on any BLY/WMS or Stern games. I cannot imaging Keith designed the entrance to have this clearance issue as a possibility even during manufacture. That said it is close and strange why they used these dome head type screws here instead of flush screws. I will dig out my stash of ramp screws from the cabinet and try those to see if they work as an option for others.

Just be careful as the holes aren't counter-sunk - you'll be tempted to screw them in flush but they wont go all the way either and could cause damage (unless you find the non-tapered flat head style) someone posted a pic of those in here at some point.

Pick up my NIB Premium tomorrow. So flippin excited.

Decided to do some detailing work on the Jada Jeep Wrangler I bought to replace the stock newton ball car. Decided to recreate the "Must go faster!" T-Rex chase scene.

So, I muddied the Jeep up a decent amount, painted some model railroad figures to represent Muldoon, Dr. Sadler and Ian Malcolm and epoxied them in their seats. A little disappointed I couldn't get more detail in the faces but these figures are so dang small!! I might touch up Ian a little so he doesn't look as much like a zombie. I'll be curious to see how everything holds up to being spun around so much...
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Screw holes in the playfield are never countersunk. The spring steel of the flap or a countersink in the scoop weldmont is utilized to make up for that. The holes in the flaps/scoop may need to be enlarged/modified though to make up for that.